Factory Workshop Manual
Make
Chevrolet
Model
Cavalier
Engine and year
L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998)
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This manual was submitted by
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Date
1st January 2018
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Alarm
Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Alarm Module: Component Locations
At the right front of the passenger compartment
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Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 8
Convenience Center
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Alarm
Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Alarm Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Alarm Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Alarm Module: Electrical Diagrams
Refer to Antitheft and Alarm Systems level diagrams.
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Alarm Module: Service and Repair
Vehicle Theft Deterrent - Component Changing Diagram
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Vehicle Theft Deterrent - Controller Learning Diagram
Engineers design the PASSLOCK system in order to prevent theft even if the various theft
deterrent parts change. The tamper mode will engage if any of the following components change:
^ The PASSLOCK lock cylinder
^ The instrument cluster
^ The powertrain control module (PCM)
If you replace any of the above components, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the
system enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle.
During the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes. The
instrument cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle.
Ensure that the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the
ignition switch before the indicator stops flashing, ensure that you repeat the long tamper cycle
from the beginning.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-64-007A
Date: September 22, 2008
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models affected list above. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-46-007 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog / Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information > Page 49
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Aftermarket Device
Interference Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-46-004
Date: August 14, 2008
Subject: Information on Aftermarket Device Interference with OnStar(R) Diagnostic Services
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Car and Truck (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 Models 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
This bulletin is being issued to provide dealer service personnel with information regarding
aftermarket devices connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) and the impact to
OnStar(R) diagnostic probes and Vehicle Diagnostic e-mails.
Certain aftermarket devices, when connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector, such as, but not
limited to, Scan Tools, Trip Computers, Fuel Economy Analyzers and Insurance Tracking Devices,
interfere with OnStar's ability to perform a diagnostic probe when requested (via a blue button call)
by a subscriber. These devices also prohibit the ability to gather diagnostic and tire pressure data
for a subscriber's scheduled OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail.
These aftermarket devices utilize the Vehicles serial data bus to perform data requests and/or
information gathering. When these devices are requesting data, OnStar(R) is designed not to
interfere with any data request being made by these devices as required by OBD II regulations.
The OnStar(R) advisor is unable to definitively detect the presence of these devices and will only
be able to inform the caller or requester of the unsuccessful or incomplete probe and may in some
cases refer the subscriber/requester to take the vehicle to a dealer for diagnosis of the concern.
When performing a diagnostic check for an unsuccessful or incomplete OnStar(R) diagnostic
probe, or for concerns regarding completeness of the OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail,
verify that an aftermarket device was not present at the time of the requested probe. Regarding the
OVD e-mail, if an aftermarket device is interfering (including a Scan Tool of any type), the e-mail
will consistently display a "yellow" indication in diagnostics section for all vehicle systems except
the OnStar(R) System and Tire Pressure data (not available on all vehicles) will not be displayed
(i.e. section is collapsed). Successful diagnostic probes and complete OVD e-mails will resume
following the removal or disconnecting of the off-board device.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information > Page 50
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar - Analog-Only Systems
Information
Bulletin No.: 06-08-46-007
Date: December 13, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models: 1996-2001 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Plus: 2002 Buick LeSabre, Rendezvous 2002-2003 Buick Century, Regal 2002-2005 Buick Park
Avenue 2002 Cadillac Eldorado, Escalade Models 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado,
Suburban, Tahoe, Venture 2002 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Jimmy, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2002
Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette 2002-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 2002 Pontiac Aztek, Bonneville,
Montana 2002-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog/Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Keyless Entry Module > Component Information > Service and Repair
Keyless Entry Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open the rear compartment. 3. Remove the left inner
trim panel. 4. Disconnect one of the electrical connectors (3 or 4). 5. Remove the push pins. 6.
Remove the remote control door lock receiver (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the remote control door lock receiver (1) to the rear compartment brace. 2. Install the push
pins to the brace. 3. Connect the electrical connector (3 or 4). 4. Install the rear compartment trim.
5. Close the rear compartment. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Reprogram the new
receiver to the transmitter(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D >
Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: Customer Interest Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D >
Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 62
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D >
Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 63
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D >
Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 64
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 70
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 71
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 72
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 77
Folding Top Relay
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Keyless Entry Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Keyless Entry Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open the rear compartment. 3. Remove the left inner
trim panel. 4. Disconnect one of the electrical connectors (3 or 4). 5. Remove the push pins. 6.
Remove the remote control door lock receiver (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the remote control door lock receiver (1) to the rear compartment brace. 2. Install the push
pins to the brace. 3. Connect the electrical connector (3 or 4). 4. Install the rear compartment trim.
5. Close the rear compartment. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Reprogram the new
receiver to the transmitter(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 84
Door Lock Relay
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS Main
Relay > Component Information > Locations
LH Center Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246
& C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 97
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 98
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 104
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 105
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 106
Electronic Brake Control Module: Locations
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 107
Component Location Views
Left hand lower I/P
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 110
Electronic Brake Control Module: Diagrams C2
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (C2) (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 111
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (C2) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair Electronic Brake Control Module
Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the dash wiring harness connectors from the EBCM. 2. Remove the EBCM from the
bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the EBCM to the bracket. 2. Install the dash wiring harness connectors to the EBCM. 3.
Perform the Diagnostic System Check
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement >
Page 114
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair Electronic Brake Control Relay Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the underhood fuse block cover. 2. Remove the electronic brake control relay from the
underhood fuse block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the electronic brake control relay into the underhood fuse block. 2. Install the underhood
fuse block cover. 3. Perform the "Diagnostic System Check" in Antilock Brake System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Motor
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations
COOLING FAN RELAY
Component Location Views
The Cooling Fan Relay is located in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Center. The Underhood
Fuse/Relay Center is located in the LH front of the engine compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications
Cruise Control Module: Specifications
Control Module Assembly Bracket to Front of Dash
....................................................................................................................................25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Control Module Assembly Bracket to Strut Tower
.......................................................................................................................................25 N.m (18 lb
ft) Control Module Assembly to Bracket
..........................................................................................................................................................10
N.m (89 lb in) Module Assembly to Mounting Bracket Nuts
............................................................................................................................................12 N.m
(106 lb in)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 123
Cruise Control Module: Locations
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 124
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 125
Cruise Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cruise Control Module Replacement (LD9)
Cruise Control Module: Service and Repair Cruise Control Module Replacement (LD9)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE The cruise control module assembly is mounted on the right front strut
tower. The module assembly has an electronic controller and an electric stepper motor in order to
vary the throttle with each different cruise control mode. The module assembly is not serviceable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the cruise control cable. 3. Disconnect the
electrical connector from the module assembly. 4. Remove the module retaining nuts. 5. Remove
the module (1) from the mounting bracket. 6. Remove the module assembly from the front of the
dash.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
IMPORTANT: Do not pre-tap screws to the module without mounting a bracket in between the
module and the screw. The added length of the screw may damage the cruise control module.
1. Install the module assembly (1) to the front of the dash.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
2. Connect the electrical connector to the module. 3. Install the cruise control cable. 4. Adjust the
cruise control cable. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cruise Control Module Replacement (LD9) > Page 128
Cruise Control Module: Service and Repair Cruise Control Module Replacement (LN2)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE The cruise control module assembly is mounted on the right front strut
tower. The module assembly has an electronic controller and an electric stepper motor in order to
vary the throttle with each different cruise control mode. The module assembly is not serviceable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the cruise control cable. 3. Disconnect the
electrical connector from the module assembly. 4. Remove the retaining nuts from the mounting
studs. 5. Remove the module assembly (1) from the right strut tower. 6. Remove the module
assembly from the mounting bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
IMPORTANT: Do not pre-tap screws to the module without mounting a bracket in between the
module and the screw. The added length of the screw may damage the cruise control module.
1. Install the module assembly (1) to the mounting bracket.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
2. Install the module assembly to strut tower. 3. Install the nuts.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).
4. Connect the electrical connector to the module. 5. Install the cruise control cable.
6. 6. Adjust cruise control cable. 7. Connect negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations
A/C COMPRESSOR CONTROL RELAY
Fuse Block Details
The A/C Compressor Control Relay is located in the Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center. The
Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center is located in the left front of the engine compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 133
Compressor Clutch Relay: Description and Operation
The A/C compressor control relay is designed to disengage the A/C compressor clutch
momentarily during start-up on a warm engine. The relay is PCM controlled. Voltage is supplied
from the A/C power feed circuit and the PCM completes the ground to close a set of normally
opened points. This turns the compressor clutch ON. The PCM opens the ground circuit when an
engine run signal is sensed with coolant temperature at a specified amount.
On a warm engine start-up, a time delay of about 3 seconds allows the engine speed to stabilize
before the compressor engages.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Control Module HVAC: Description and Operation
The blower speed is controlled by a knob which actuates a switch. The blower circuit is open in the
OFF mode. In all other modes the blower has 4 speeds to control the amount of air that flows
through the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Component Locations
At the right front of the passenger compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 142
Convenience Center
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 145
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 146
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 147
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 148
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 149
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 150
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 151
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 152
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 153
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 154
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 169
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 171
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 174
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 175
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 176
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
Refer to Diagrams under Audible Warning Device.
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Audible Warning Device Control Module: Testing and Inspection
Refer to Audible Warning Device for all Audible Warning System diagnostic information.
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Audible Warning Device Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the left sound insulator. 3. Remove the
retaining nuts (4) from the alarm module (5). 4. Remove the multifunction alarm assembly (5) from
the convenience center.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the multifunction alarm assembly (5) to the convenience center.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the nuts (4) to the alarm module (5).
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 6 N-m (53 lb in).
3. Install the left sound insulator. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Locations
DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP RELAY
Front View Of Fuse Block
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Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 183
Component Location Views
The Daytime Running Lamp Relay is located in the Left Fuse block. The Left Fuse Block is located
behind lower LH side of Instrument Panel.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay
> Component Information > Locations > Fog Lamp Cut Off Relay
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay
> Component Information > Locations > Fog Lamp Cut Off Relay > Page 188
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay
> Component Information > Locations > Page 189
Fog/Driving Lamp Relay: Diagrams
Fog Lamp Cutoff Relay
Fog Lamp Relay
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Horn Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Horn Relay: Component Locations
HORN RELAY
Convenience Center
The Horn Relay is located in the Convenience Center. The Convenience Center is located at the
right front of the passenger compartment.
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Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 194
Convenience Center
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations
Relay Box: Locations
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Front View Of Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center > Page 201
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center (Alt Fuel)
Left Front Corner, Behind Headlamp
1. Ignition Relay 2. Fuel Pump Relay 3. Lock-off Relay 4. Fuel Gauge Relay 5. C023 6. C011 7.
C007 8. C004
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Powertrain Control Module: Recalls Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Product Emission 99090 - PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion #99090
99090--PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion (Install Protective PCM Shield/Cover Assembly)
Certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires Located in Fifteen U.S.
High Road Salt Corrosion States (CT, IL, IN, MA, ME, MN, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VT, and WI)
and in Ontario, Quebec and Atlantic Provinces, and Certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999
Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires located in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British
Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
Condition General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain
1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S.
high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996,
1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba,
Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories. These vehicles
have the potential to experience moisture entering the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a
result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt, Moisture entering the PCM can lead to
symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light or the engine running rough. If these
symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be able to be restarted.
Correction Dealers are to seal the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in a protective shield/cover
assembly.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM >
Page 212
Vehicles Involved Involved are certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories built within the following VIN breakpoints:
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) of GM
Access Screen (Canada only) prior to beginning campaign repairs. [Not all vehicles within the
above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listing
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealers listing may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this listing tot he follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Important
An initial supply of covers and shields required to complete this campaign will be pre-shipped to
involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment will occur the week of May 8, 2000. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM >
Page 213
Parts required to complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to you "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering requirements
Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency
requirement should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Service Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right-hand engine splash shield (in front of the right front tire assembly)
3. Remove the horn attachment bolt. Disconnect the wire and remove the horn.
4. Remove the PCM retainer attachment bolts (2). Slide the PCM and the retainer from the PCM
and the retainer from the PCM bracket.
5. Install the PCM cover, P/N 22623903, over the PCM with the "F" facing outward.
6. Install the PCM into the vehicle bracket.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM >
Page 214
7. Install the PCM shield assembly, P/N 22623904, to the vehicle. Drape the shield over the PCM
bracket. Removing the evap hose clip fastener and reinstall through the shield. Push the square cut
over the PCM attachment nut. Remove the horn wiring attachment clip and reinstall through the
shield.
8. Install the push-in retainer, P/N 10121502. through the lower front hole of the PCM shield and
then through the side hold of the PCM cover.
9. Install the Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign Identification Label
For US Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the
instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Campaign Identification Labels for US
dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by calling 1-888-549-6152 (Monday-Friday,
8:00 am to 5:00 pm EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Campaign Identification Label
For CANADA Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance
with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to
include the campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the
campaign service. This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. Additional Campaign Identification Labels for Canadian
dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm
EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Campaign
Claim Submissions.
Customer Notification
For US and CANADA
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Page 215
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
customer letter included with this bulletin.
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance. The vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection test if the recall work
is not completed.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
For US and CANADA All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this campaign
MUST be held and inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin BEFORE
customers take possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle, or owner, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make required correction according tot he instructions contained
in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the customer letter
accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since
the customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
May, 2000
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall
General Motors has decided that certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories. These vehicles have the potential to experience moisture entering the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt,
Moisture entering the PCM can lead to symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light
or the engine running rough. If these symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be
able to be restarted.
What Will Be Done
To prevent this condition from occurring, your GM dealer will seal the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) in a protective shield/cover assembly. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer
Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and to assure parts
availability. Instructions for making this correction have been sent to your dealer. Please ask your
dealer if you wish to know how much time will be needed to schedule, process and repair your
vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the number listed.
Customer Replay Card
The attached customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer
will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you no longer own
this vehicle, please let us know by completeing the reply card and returning it to us in the postage
pad envelope.
Courtesy Transportation
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Page 216
Your dealer may provide you with shuttle service or some other form of courtesy transportation
while your vehicle is at the dealership for this repair. Please refer to your Owner's Manual and your
dealer for details on Courtesy Transportation.
Emission Law Information
In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty made applicable to your vehicle
by State or Federal Law, and your right to participate in future recalls, it is recommended that you
have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Failure to do so could legally be determined to be
lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also, your vehicle may fail a state or local emission
inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
(Chevrolet, Pontiac-GMC) Division
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B >
Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B >
Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 222
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the
PCM
Product Emission 99090 - PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion #99090
99090--PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion (Install Protective PCM Shield/Cover Assembly)
Certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires Located in Fifteen U.S.
High Road Salt Corrosion States (CT, IL, IN, MA, ME, MN, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VT, and WI)
and in Ontario, Quebec and Atlantic Provinces, and Certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999
Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires located in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British
Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
Condition General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain
1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S.
high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996,
1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba,
Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories. These vehicles
have the potential to experience moisture entering the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a
result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt, Moisture entering the PCM can lead to
symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light or the engine running rough. If these
symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be able to be restarted.
Correction Dealers are to seal the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in a protective shield/cover
assembly.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 227
Vehicles Involved Involved are certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories built within the following VIN breakpoints:
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) of GM
Access Screen (Canada only) prior to beginning campaign repairs. [Not all vehicles within the
above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listing
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealers listing may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this listing tot he follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Important
An initial supply of covers and shields required to complete this campaign will be pre-shipped to
involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment will occur the week of May 8, 2000. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 228
Parts required to complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to you "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering requirements
Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency
requirement should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Service Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right-hand engine splash shield (in front of the right front tire assembly)
3. Remove the horn attachment bolt. Disconnect the wire and remove the horn.
4. Remove the PCM retainer attachment bolts (2). Slide the PCM and the retainer from the PCM
and the retainer from the PCM bracket.
5. Install the PCM cover, P/N 22623903, over the PCM with the "F" facing outward.
6. Install the PCM into the vehicle bracket.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 229
7. Install the PCM shield assembly, P/N 22623904, to the vehicle. Drape the shield over the PCM
bracket. Removing the evap hose clip fastener and reinstall through the shield. Push the square cut
over the PCM attachment nut. Remove the horn wiring attachment clip and reinstall through the
shield.
8. Install the push-in retainer, P/N 10121502. through the lower front hole of the PCM shield and
then through the side hold of the PCM cover.
9. Install the Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign Identification Label
For US Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the
instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Campaign Identification Labels for US
dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by calling 1-888-549-6152 (Monday-Friday,
8:00 am to 5:00 pm EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Campaign Identification Label
For CANADA Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance
with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to
include the campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the
campaign service. This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. Additional Campaign Identification Labels for Canadian
dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm
EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Campaign
Claim Submissions.
Customer Notification
For US and CANADA
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 230
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
customer letter included with this bulletin.
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance. The vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection test if the recall work
is not completed.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
For US and CANADA All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this campaign
MUST be held and inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin BEFORE
customers take possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle, or owner, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make required correction according tot he instructions contained
in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the customer letter
accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since
the customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
May, 2000
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall
General Motors has decided that certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories. These vehicles have the potential to experience moisture entering the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt,
Moisture entering the PCM can lead to symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light
or the engine running rough. If these symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be
able to be restarted.
What Will Be Done
To prevent this condition from occurring, your GM dealer will seal the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) in a protective shield/cover assembly. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer
Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and to assure parts
availability. Instructions for making this correction have been sent to your dealer. Please ask your
dealer if you wish to know how much time will be needed to schedule, process and repair your
vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the number listed.
Customer Replay Card
The attached customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer
will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you no longer own
this vehicle, please let us know by completeing the reply card and returning it to us in the postage
pad envelope.
Courtesy Transportation
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 231
Your dealer may provide you with shuttle service or some other form of courtesy transportation
while your vehicle is at the dealership for this repair. Please refer to your Owner's Manual and your
dealer for details on Courtesy Transportation.
Emission Law Information
In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty made applicable to your vehicle
by State or Federal Law, and your right to participate in future recalls, it is recommended that you
have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Failure to do so could legally be determined to be
lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also, your vehicle may fail a state or local emission
inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
(Chevrolet, Pontiac-GMC) Division
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep
> 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B >
Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B >
Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 241
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98
> PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 246
Powertrain Control Module: Specifications
PCM Retainer Bolts 6-9 ft.lb
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 247
Powertrain Control Module: Locations
Location View
At the right front corner, behind the fascia
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Powertrain Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 250
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 253
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Powertrain Control Module: Connector Views
Connector View
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Connector View
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Connector View
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Connector View
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Powertrain Control Module: Description and Operation
Description
The Control Module refers to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Vehicle Control Module
(VCM). The control module is designed to maintain exhaust emission levels to Federal or California
standards while providing excellent driveability and fuel efficiency. Review the components and
wiring diagrams in order to determine which systems are controlled by each specific control
module. The control module monitors numerous engine and vehicle functions. The control module
controls the following operations:
^ Fuel control
^ Ignition Control (IC)
^ Knock Sensor (KS) system
^ Automatic transmission shift functions
^ Cruise Control Enable
^ Generator
^ Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge
^ A/C Clutch Control
^ Cooling Fan Control
Control Module Function
The Control Module supplies a buffered voltage to various sensors and switches. The input and
output devices in the control module include an analog to digital converters, signal buffers,
counters, and special drivers. The Control Module controls most components with electronic
switches which complete a ground circuit when turned ON. These switches are arranged in groups
of 4 and 7 called one of the following:
^ Quad Driver Module
^ Output Driver Modules
The surface mounted Quad Driver Module can independently control up to 4 outputs (Control
Module) terminals. The Output Driver Modules can independently control up to 7 outputs. Not all
outputs are always used.
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Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Instrument
Panel Cluster (IPC) and the PCM. If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM needs to learn the correct
password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is flashed into
the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial ignition ON. If the PC is
replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the IPC. The password learn procedure
is as follows:
1. Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition ON. The THEFT SYSTEM telltale will flash for 10
minutes.
2. When the THEFT SYSTEM telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running,
the password is learned.
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Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Replacement/Programming
Repair Instructions
NOTICE: In order to prevent internal damage to the PCM, the ignition must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting the PCM connector.
Service of the PCM should normally consist of either replacement of the PCM or EEPROM
re-programming.
If the diagnostic procedures call for the PCM to be replaced, the PCM should be checked first to
see if it is the correct part. DTC P0601 indicates the EEPROM programming has malfunctioned.
When DTC P0601 is obtained, re-program the EEPROM. The ignition should be OFF for at least
10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM so the IAC valve has time to move to the
engine OFF position.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Turn the ignition switch OFF to prevent internal PCM damage when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to the PCM (for example, battery cable, PCM pigtail, PCM fuse, jumper cables,
etc.). The ignition switch should be OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting the power to
the PCM so the IAC valve has time to move to the engine OFF position.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the RH engine splash shield. 3. Disconnect
the horn electrical connector. 4. Remove the horn attaching bolt and the horn.
NOTICE: Do not touch the PCM connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board in
order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) damage. Do not remove the integrated
circuit boards from the carrier.
5. Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors (1).
6. Remove the PCM retainer attaching bolts (1).
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7. Slide the PCM and the retainer (1) from the PCM bracket (2).
8. Remove the retainer (1) from the PCM (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Remove the new PCM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the
same number or updated number as the malfunctioning PCM.
1. Slide the PCM (2) into the PCM retainer (1). 2. Slide the PCM and the retainer (1) into the PCM
bracket (2) slots. 3. Install the PCM retainer attaching bolts (1). Tighten the PCM retainer attaching
bolts to 8-12 Nm (6-9 lb ft).
NOTICE: Do not touch the PCM connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board in
order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) damage. Do not remove the integrated
circuit boards from the carrier.
4. Connect the PCM electrical connectors (1). 5. Install the horn and the horn attaching bolt. 6.
Connect the horn electrical connector. 7. Install the RH engine splash shield. 8. Connect the
negative battery cable. 9. Reprogram the PCM and perform the Crankshaft Position System
Variation Learning Procedure.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor Module > Component Information > Description and Operation
Knock Sensor Module: Description and Operation
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 329
Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Fuel Pump Relay
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the relay center cover. 2. Remove the fuel pump relay.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump relay. 2. Install the relay center cover.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Specifications
Ignition Control Module: Specifications
Cover Bolts 16 ft.lb
Screws 35 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Specifications > Page 334
Ignition Control Module: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Specifications > Page 335
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Specifications > Page 336
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Ignition Control Module (C1) (LN2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 339
Ignition Control Module (C2) (LN2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 340
Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
This system uses the same circuits between the ICM and the PCM that distributor type systems
use. Following is a brief description for each of the IC circuits.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Activity (7X reference) - The CKP sensor generates a signal to
the ICM which results in a reference pulse (square wave signal) being sent to the PCM. The PCM
uses this signal to calculate crankshaft position, engine speed and injector pulse width. The engine
will not start or run if this circuit is open or grounded.
Reference Low - This wire is grounded through the ICM and insures that the ground circuit has no
voltage drop between the ICM and the PCM which could affect performance. The PCM compares
voltage pulses on the 7X or reference input to those on this circuit, ignoring any pulses that appear
on both. A pulse that appears on the reference low circuit alone is assumed to be caused by Radio
Frequency Interference (RFI).
Ignition Control (IC) 1 & 2 - The PCM sends the ignition control pulse to the ICM on these circuits.
These signals are similar to the 7X reference pulse square wave except that the PCM uses sensor
inputs to determine the pulse timing to control spark advance. When the PCM receives the 7X
signal, it will determine which pair of cylinders will be fired (1 & 4 or 2 & 3). It then tells the ICM
which cylinder to fire through the ignition control circuits.
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Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 341
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the ignition coils from the module (1). 4. Remove the module from the assembly plate.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the module to the assembly plate 2. Install the ignition coils. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications
Air Bag Control Module: Specifications Sensing and Diagnostic Module
Sensing and Diagnostic Module
Mounting Fasteners 14 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > System Component Locations
Description
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > System Component Locations > Page 348
Air Bag Control Module: Locations Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
Component Location Views
At the right passenger compartment, under the right seat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 349
Air Bag Control Module: Diagrams
Sensing Diagnostic Module (SDM)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 350
Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) performs the following functions in
the SIR system:
^ Energy Reserve - The SDM maintains 23 Volt Loop Reserve (23 VLR) energy supplies to provide
deployment energy. Ignition voltage can provide deployment energy if the 23 Volt Loop Reserves
malfunction.
^ Frontal Crash Detection - The SDM monitors vehicle velocity changes to detect frontal crashes
that are severe enough to warrant deployment.
^ Air Bag Deployment - During a frontal crash of sufficient force, the SDM will cause enough
current to flow through the inflator modules to deploy the air bags.
^ Frontal Crash Recording - The SDM records information regarding the SIR system status during
a frontal crash.
^ Malfunction Detection - The SDM performs diagnostic monitoring of the SIR system electrical
components. Upon detection of a circuit malfunction, the SDM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC).
^ Malfunction Diagnosis - The SDM displays SIR Diagnostic Trouble Codes and system status
information through the use of a scan tool.
^ Driver Notification - The SDM warns the vehicle driver of SIR system malfunctions by controlling
the AIR BAG warning lamp.
The SDM connects to the SIR wiring harness using a 12-way connector. If this connector is
removed from the SDM, the UART data link is broken and the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) will
turn the AIR BAG warning lamp ON steady whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN or START
positions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Important Preliminary Precautions
CAUTION: Be careful when you handle a Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM). Do not strike or
jolt the SDM. Before applying power to the SDM:
^ Remove any dirt, grease, etc. from the mounting surface
^ Position the SDM horizontally on the mounting surface
^ Point the arrow on the SDM toward the front of the vehicle
^ Tighten all of the SDM fasteners and SDM bracket fasteners to the specified torque value
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
CAUTION: If any water enters the vehicle's interior up to the level of the carpet or higher and soaks
the carpet, the Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) and the SDM harness connector may need
to be replaced. The SDM could be activated when powered, which could cause deployment of the
air bag(s) and result in personal injury, Before attempting these procedures, the SIR system must
be disabled. Refer to Disabling SIR System. With the ignition OFF inspect the SDM mounting area,
including the carpet. If any significant soaking or evidence of significant soaking is detected, you
MUST:
^ Remove all water
^ Repair the water damage
^ Replace the SDM harness connector
^ Replace the SDM
Failure to follow these procedures could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or
otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 353
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Removal Procedure
1. Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. 2. Remove the passenger front
seat. Refer to Driver Or Passenger Front Seat in Seats and Carpet. 3. Remove the passenger front
carpet retainer, then roll back the carpet. Refer to Floor Carpet Retainer in Seats and Carpet.
4. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the inflatable restraint Sensing and
Diagnostic Module (SDM) harness connector.
Description
5. Disconnect the SDM harness connector from the SDM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 354
6. Remove the SDM mounting fasteners (2). 7. Remove the SDM (1) from the floor pan (3).
IMPORTANT: If the SDM mounting holes or fasteners are damaged to the extent that the module
can no longer be properly mounted use the following repair. Torque the replacement fastener with
a hand tool in order to prevent stripping the replacement fastener.
1. Remove the stripped fastener and discard it. 2. Drill and tap the weld nut for use with a 7.00 x
1.0 mm bolt.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
3. Install the SDM with new fastener GM P/N 25601790. 4. Tighten
Tighten fastener to 14 N.m (124 lb. in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 355
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Installation Procedure
1. Install the SDM (1) to the floor pan (3).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
2. Install the SDM mounting fasteners (2).
Tighten Tighten fasteners to 14 N.m (124 lb. in).
Description
3. Install the SDM harness connector to the SDM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 356
4. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the SDM harness connector. 5. Install the
carpet and the passenger front carpet retainer. 6. Install the passenger front seat. 7. Enable the
SIR system. Refer to Enabling the SIR System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Control
Module > Component Information > Specifications
Wiper Control Module: Specifications
Wiper Drive System Module to Vehicle Screws
..........................................................................................................................................10 N.m (88
lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Lock Cylinder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 367
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 368
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 369
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 370
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 371
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 372
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 373
Lock Cylinder Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 374
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 375
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 392
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 393
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 394
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 395
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 396
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 397
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 398
Lock Cylinder Switch: Connector Views
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 399
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 400
Passlock TM Lock Cylinder
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 401
Theft Deterrent System Schematics: Passlock Lock Cylinder
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Switch
> Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > Convertible Top Bypass Switch
Bypass Switch (Folding Top)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > Convertible Top Bypass Switch > Page 408
Folding Top Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Specifications
Power Door Lock Switch: Specifications
At the left front luggage compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Specifications > Page 412
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch
Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams Left Front Door Lock Switch
LF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch > Page 415
LF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch > Page 416
RF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 417
Power Door Lock Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver in order to pry the power door lock switch. 2. Disconnect the wire
harness (8) from the power door lock switch (9). 3. Remove the power door lock switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the wire harness (8) to the power door lock switch. 2. Install the power door lock switch.
Ensure the unit is retained.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 422
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Brake Fluid Level Switch Location
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations Brake Fluid Level Switch Location
Left hand rear of engine compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Brake Fluid Level Switch Location > Page 431
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations Brake Fluid Level Indicator, ABS
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Brake Fluid Level Switch Location > Page 432
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 433
Brake Fluid Level Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 434
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fluid level switch (1).
2. Disconnect the fluid level switch using needle nose pliers in order to compress the switch locking
tabs (1) at the inboard side of the master
cylinder.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the fluid level switch into the master cylinder reservoir until the locking tabs (3) snap
into place.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 435
2. Connect the electrical connector to the fluid level switch (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
Braking Sensor/Switch: Technical Service Bulletins Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-12
Date: April, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Adjustment of New Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches
Models: 1996-98 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue, Riviera 1996-98 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville
1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1996-98
Oldsmobile Aurora, Eighty Eight, LSS, Regency 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999 Oldsmobile
Alero 1996-98 Pontiac Bonneville 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to advise that new style brake switches were used beginning in the
1996 model year. The two switches control the brake lights, cruise control engage/release, TCC
lock-up/release and the Brake/Transmission Inter-Lock function. The switches are adjusted by
twisting rather than ratcheting. Using the old adjustment method of pulling up on the brake pedal
can break the switch.
A mis-adjusted or damaged switch may cause customer comments such as:
^ Brake lights stay on, draining the battery
^ Cruise control inoperative
^ Higher than normal fuel consumption if TCC cannot engage
^ Brake drag
^ Cruise control takes excess pedal travel to release
The adjustment procedure in the Service Manual should be followed.
Procedure
1. Insert the stop lamp switch into the retainer until the switch bottoms out against the brake pedal,
and the switch actuator is fully depressed.
2. Turn the brake switch in the retainer clockwise until the travel stop has been reached. At this
point it will be locked.
Important:
If the switch is not fully locked into position, a clicking noise may result.
3. The brake switch plunger should extend outward 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm (0.02 in. to 0.06 in.) if
adjusted correctly.
4. If the distance the plunger extends is too great, the brake switch must be turned
counter-clockwise about 45° and set to the correct distance before locking it in place by turning it
clockwise until the travel stop is reached.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Parking
Brake Release Switch > Component Information > Locations
Parking Brake Release Switch: Locations
At the left center of the console
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Parking
Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
Parking Brake Switch Location
Left hand center of console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Parking
Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 447
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Traction
Control Switch > Component Information > Locations
Traction Control Switch: Locations
Component Location Views
At the center console on the gear selector
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Traction
Control Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 451
Enhanced Traction Control System Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Wheel Speed Sensor: Specifications
Front Wheel Speed Sensor Retaining Bolt 107 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Wheel Speed Sensor
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Wheel Speed Sensor
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Wheel Speed Sensor > Page 457
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Wheel Speed Sensor > Page 458
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF
LF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 461
RF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 462
LR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 463
RR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front)
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting And Jacking. 2.
Disconnect the front wheel speed sensor electrical connector. 3. Remove the retaining bolt. 4.
Remove the front wheel speed sensor. If the sensor will not slide out of the knuckle, remove the
brake rotor and use a blunt punch or equivalent
tool to push the sensor from the back side of the knuckle.
IMPORTANT: If the sensor locating pin breaks off and remains in the knuckle during removal,
proceed as follows:
1. Remove the brake rotor and remove broken pin using a blunt punch. 2. Clean the hole using
sand paper wrapped around a screwdriver or other suitable tool. Never attempt to enlarge the hole.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the front wheel speed sensor to the steering knuckle. 2. Install the retaining bolt.
^ Tighten the Torx screws to 12 Nm (107 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Connect the front wheel speed sensor electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Perform the
Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front) > Page 466
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Rear)
IMPORTANT: The rear wheel speed sensors and rings are integral with the hub and bearing
assemblies.
If a speed sensor or a ring needs replacement, replace the entire hub and bearing assembly. Refer
to Rear Suspension in Suspension.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front) > Page 467
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Jumper Harness Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting And Jacking. 2.
Remove the connector from the front wheel speed sensor. 3. Remove the harness attaching clips
(2) from the control arm (3) and the splash shield (1). 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Remove the harness
attaching clips from the strut tower. 6. Cut the wheel speed sensor wiring circuits within the main
engine harness. 7. Strip the insulation on the engine harness leads and the new wheel speed
sensor harness leads.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Splice the sleeve provided in the jumper harness kit over each engine harness lead. 2. Install the
new wheel speed sensor harness leads to the engine harness leads and crimp the connections.
Make sure the wire colors match. 3. Heat shrink the tube lightly to seal the connection. 4. Install the
harness attaching clip to the strut tower. 5. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting
And Jacking. 6. Install the harness attaching clips (2) to the control arm (3) and the splash shield
(1). 7. Install the connector to the front wheel speed sensor. 8. Lower the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle
Lifting And Jacking. 9. Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front) > Page 468
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Jumper Harness Replacement
(Rear Axle)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking. 2.
Disconnect the two rear wheel speed sensor electrical connectors (3) from the rear wheel bearing
and speed sensor assemblies (2). 3. Disconnect the rear axle harness electrical connector from the
body to ABS and fuel sender connector. 4. Remove the rear axle harness retainers (1). 5. Remove
the rear axle harness from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the rear axle harness to the vehicle. 2. Install the rear axle harness retainers (1). 3.
Connect the rear axle harness electrical connector to the body to ABS and fuel sender connector.
4. Connect the two rear wheel speed sensor electrical connectors (3) to the rear wheel bearing and
speed sensor assemblies (2). 5. Lower the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting And Jacking. 6. Perform
the Diagnostic System Check.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 473
Engine Coolant Level Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Instruments - Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Technical Service Bulletins Instruments Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-010
Date: March, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Erratic and Incorrect Engine Temperature Reading (Bleed Air from Cooling System)
Models: 1998-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-99 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition Some owners may comment about low coolant temperature gauge readings and when
performing diagnosis, the technician may notice coolant temperature readings below the actual
coolant temperature.
Cause There may be a small pocket of air trapped in the coolant temperature sensor fitting on the
radiator inlet pipe. This air pocket insulates the coolant temperature sensor from contact with the
coolant flow causing low temperature gauge readings.
Correction REMOVE THE TRAPPED AIR WITH THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
Caution:
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably
higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank
cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil
instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the
fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
1. With the engine off and at ambient temperature, slowly remove the surge tank cap to relieve
pressure from the cooling system.
2. Locate the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
Notice:
DO NOT APPLY TORQUE DIRECTLY TO THE RADIATOR INLET PIPE! Always use a back up
wrench on the coolant temperature sensor fitting to prevent damage to the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
3. Observe the gap between the bottom of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor and the top
of the hex on the fitting brazed to the radiator inlet pipe. It may be helpful at this point to mark the
coolant temperature sensor thread with a reference mark 5 mm (0.196 in) down from the bottom of
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the hex on the sensor.
4. Slowly loosen the sensor (do not fully remove it) until coolant begins to weep out of the threads.
This will allow any trapped air to escape and will ensure that the coolant is in contact with the
sensor element.
5. Retighten the Coolant Temperature Sensor until there is a 5 mm (0.196 in) gap between the
bottom of the hex on the sensor and the top of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor fitting.
6. Inspect the coolant level in the surge tank, if the coolant is low, add additional coolant to bring
the level up to the "Full Cold" mark on the surge tank. Install the surge tank cap.
7. Start the vehicle and inspect the Coolant Temperature Sensor for leaks and correct temperature
gauge readings.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor 0peration Labor Time
J6368 0.3 hr
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Sensor 25 Nm
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Component Location Views
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Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 514
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 515
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 516
Wiring Diagram
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 517
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (3) is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor through a resistor in the PCM and monitors the
terminal voltage. Since this forms a series circuit to ground through the ECT sensor, high sensor
resistance (low temperature) will result in high PCM terminal voltage. When the resistance of the
ECT sensor is low (high temperature), the terminal voltage will be drawn lower. This terminal
voltage indicates engine coolant temperature to the PCM.
A hard fault in the ECT sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0117 or P0118. Remember, these
DTCs indicate a malfunction in the engine coolant temperature circuit, so proper use of the DTC
table may lead to either repairing a wiring problem or replacing the sensor, to properly repair a
problem.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 518
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect the
operation of the fuel control system.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Relieve the coolant system pressure. 3. Disconnect the ECT
sensor electrical connector. 4. Carefully back out the ECT sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer. 2. Install the ECT sensor. Tighten the ECT sensor to 25 Nm
(18.5 lb. ft.). 3. Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector. 4. Refill the engine coolant system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise
Control) > Component Information > Locations
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Locations
Brake Switch And Cruise Control Brake Switch
At the left lower instrument panel, below the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise
Control) > Component Information > Locations > Page 523
Cruise Control Brake Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise
Control) > Component Information > Locations > Page 524
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Adjustments
IMPORTANT: If you do not adjust the switches properly, the cruise control system may not work
properly.
You may not adjust the release switch assembly and the stoplamp switch assembly until after you
assemble the brake booster pushrod to the brake pedal assembly. Adjust the cruise control release
switch and the stoplamp switch together.
1. Press the brake pedal assembly. Insert the switch assembly and stoplamp switch assembly into
the retainers until fully seated. 2. Slowly release the brake pedal assembly back to its fully retracted
position. The release switch assembly will move within its retainers to the
"adjusted" position.
Use the following brake pedal assembly travel distances to check for properly adjusted release and
stoplamp switch assemblies:
^ Release switch assembly and stoplamp switch assembly contacts must be open at 3.5 to 12.5
mm (1/8 to 1/2 in) brake pedal assembly travel. Take the measurement at the centerline of the
brake pedal assembly pad.
^ Nominal actuation of the stoplamp switch assembly contacts is about 4.5 mm (3/16 in) after the
cruise control switch assembly contacts close.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise
Control) > Component Information > Locations > Page 525
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the left sound insulator. 2. Disconnect the wiring harness connector(s). 3. Pull the
switch rearward in order to remove the switch from the retainer in the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the retainer into the bracket (from the forward side). 2. With the brake or clutch pedal
depressed, insert the switch into the retainer until the switch seats on the retainer. You may hear
audible "clicks" as
the ribbed portion of the switch pushes forward through the retainer.
3. Connect the wiring harness connector(s). 4. Adjust the switch in the following manner:
4.1. Pull the brake or clutch pedal fully rearward against the pedal stop until you can not hear
audible "clicks". The switch moves in the retainer. This movement provides adjustment.
4.2. Release the brake or the clutch pedal. Repeat the above in order to ensure that you have
properly adjusted the switch.
5. Install the sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise
Control > Component Information > Locations
Clutch Switch: Locations
Cruise Control Clutch And Clutch Pedal Switches
At the left lower instrument panel, below the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise
Control > Component Information > Locations > Page 529
Cruise Control Clutch Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cruise Control Switch Assembly
Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Cruise Control Switch Assembly
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the left sound insulator. 2. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors. 3. Pull the clutch
pedal switch (1) rearward in order to remove the switch from the retainer in the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the retainer into the bracket from the forward side. 2. Depress the clutch pedal (3). 3.
Insert the switch into the retainer until the switch seats on the retainer. 4. Connect the wiring
harness to the clutch pedal switch. 5. Use the following steps in order to adjust the switch:
5.1. Pull the clutch pedal fully rearward against the pedal stop until you cannot hear the clicks.
5.2. Move the switch in the retainer in order to adjust the switch.
5.3. Release the clutch pedal.
5.4. Repeat the procedure, if necessary, in order to properly adjust the switch.
6. Connect the wiring harness connectors. 7. Install the sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cruise Control Switch Assembly > Page 534
Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Headlamp/Turn Signal/Cruise Control/Hazard Switch
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 539
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 540
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sensor: Locations
At the rear center of the engine
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 544
Oil Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the engine oil pressure
sensor (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor (1). 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Lower the
vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Blower Motor Switch: Service and Repair
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument Panel trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate in instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console. 3. Control assembly screws and pull control assembly away from the
instrument Panel. 4. Blower switch knob. 5. Electrical connection. 6. Blower switch retaining screws
and blower switch.
Install or Connect
1. Blower switch and retaining screws.
Tighten ^
Screws fully driven, seated and not stripped.
2. Electrical connection. 3. Blower switch knob. 4. Control assembly and retaining screws.
Tighten ^
Screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
5. Instrument Panel trim plate. 6. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Specifications A/C Pressure Sensor Torque Specification
A/C Pressure Sensor Torque Specification
A/C Pressure Sensor Fitting 44 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 552
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 553
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 554
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
An electronic A/C pressure sensor is mounted in the line (between the compressor and the
condenser). Its output to the PCM is variable and is dependent upon pressure inside the line. A
higher pressure results in a higher voltage output. The PCM constantly monitors A/C system
pressure to:
1. Disengage the A/C clutch if the pressures are too high. 2. Disengage the A/C clutch if pressures
are too low. 3. Boost idle air control to compensate for A/C load at idle. 4. Control cooling fan
operation.
The pressure sensor is not repairable, if it fails, it must be replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair A/C Pressure Sensor
The A/C system has a pressure sensor mounted on the compressor/condenser hose assembly
near the condenser connection. The sensor performs both low and high pressure cutout functions
through an input to the PCM. No compressor mounted switches are used. The sensor is mounted
on a service fitting and can be replaced without discharging the A/C system.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Electrical connection at the sensor. 3. Pressure sensor and discard
the O-ring seal.
^ The sensor is mounted on a service fitting; do not discharge the system.
Install or Connect
1. New O-ring seal lubricated in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil. 2. Pressure sensor.
Tighten ^
Sensor to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
3. Electrical connection at the sensor. 4. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 557
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Control Switches
Conventional Mounted
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the switch in
the rear head of the compressor. 3. Remove the switch retaining ring, using J 5403 internal snap
ring pliers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 558
4. Remove switch from compressor. 5. Remove old O-ring seal from switch cavity using J 955301
O-ring removal tool or equivalent.
NOTICE: If existing switch will be reinstalled in compressor, a new O-ring seal must be used and
preferably a new retainer ring should also be used. A new switch kit has the O-ring and retainer
ring included.
Install or Connect
1. Check switch cavity and O-ring groove in the rear head for dirt or foreign material and clean as
necessary. Install new O-ring coated with clean
525 viscosity refrigerant oil into groove in switch cavity.
2. Lubricate the switch housing with clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and carefully insert switch
into switch cavity until switch "bottoms" in cavity. 3. Using J 5403 snap ring pliers, install switch
retaining ring with high point of curved sides adjacent to the switch housing. Be sure retaining ring
is
properly seated in the switch cavity retainer ring groove.
4. Evacuate and recharge the system. 5. Leak test referring to "Compressor Leak Testing".
Direct Mounted
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 559
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the switch in
the rear head of the compressor. 3. Remove the switch retaining ring, using J 5403 internal snap
ring pliers. 4. Remove switch from compressor. 5. Remove old O-ring seal from switch cavity using
J 955301 O-ring removal tool or equivalent.
NOTICE: If existing switch will be reinstalled in compressor, a new O-ring seal must be used and
preferably a new retainer ring should also be used. A new switch kit has the O-ring and retainer
ring included.
Install or Connect
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 560
1. Check switch cavity and O-ring groove in the rear head for dirt or foreign material and clean as
necessary. Install new O-ring coated with clean
525 viscosity refrigerant oil into groove in switch cavity.
2. Lubricate the switch housing with clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and carefully insert switch
into switch cavity until switch "bottoms" in cavity. 3. Using J 5403 snap ring pliers, install switch
retaining ring with high point of curved sides adjacent to the switch housing. Be sure retaining ring
is
properly seated in the switch cavity retainer ring groove.
4. Evacuate and recharge the system. 5. Leak test referring to "Compressor Leak Testing".
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
Dimmer Switch: Technical Service Bulletins IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-42-009
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Setting of I/P Dimmer Control to View PRNDL Display with Automatic Headlamp
Control
Models: 2000 and Prior All Passenger Cars and Trucks With Automatic Headlamp Control and
Electronic PRNDL Display
Under certain conditions, if the instrument panel dimmer control is turned relatively low, the PRNDL
will not be visible until the automatic headlamp control turns the headlamps off and the daytime
running lamps (DRL) are turned back on. Such a condition may be if the vehicle is first started in an
environment where the headlamp control turns on the headlamps and then the vehicle is driven out
into a brighter environment (for example, when a vehicle is backed out of a dark garage into the
bright sunlight).
This condition is normal and any repair attempt will not be successful. Demonstrate this condition
to the customer using the service lane and then turn the instrument panel dimmer control to a
higher setting. This will enable the driver to see the PRNDL display
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Dimmer Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 568
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 569
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 570
Dimmer Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 571
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 572
Dimmer Switch: Diagrams
Panel Dimmer Switch
Lamp Dimmer Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 573
Dimmer Switch: Testing and Inspection
For electrical diagnosis of the column mounted dimmer switch system, refer to ELECTRICAL
DIAGNOSIS.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Door Switch: Component Locations
Door Jamb Switch, LH Front
Component Location Views
At the left front door jamb (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 578
Component Location Views
At the left rear door (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Front
At the right front door jamb (left switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Rear
At the right rear door jamb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 579
Door Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 580
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 581
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 582
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 583
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 584
Door Switch: Diagrams
LF Door Jamb Switch
LR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 585
RF Door Jamb Switch
RF Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 586
RR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 591
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 592
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 593
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 594
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 595
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 596
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Key Reminder Switch
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection
For diagnosis of the system, Refer to ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Parking Brake
Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
Parking Brake Switch Location
Left hand center of console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Parking Brake
Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 604
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Switch > Component Information > Locations
Backup Lamp Switch: Locations
Component Location Views
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Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 609
Component Location Views
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Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 610
Backup Lamp Switch (Manual)
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Component Information > Locations
Brake Switch And Cruise Control Brake Switch
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Light Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Brake Light Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Brake Light Switch: Connector Views
Brake Switch (C1)
Brake Switch (C2)
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Turn/Hazard/Front Marker/Front Park
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Brake Light Switch: Adjustments
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the driver side sound insulator. 2. Remove the electrical connection. 3. Disconnect the
brake switch retainer (2), grasping and turning 90 degrees counter clockwise and pulling the switch
towards the rear of the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Insert the stop lamp switch (2) into the retainer until the switch body seats on the retainer.
2. Pull the brake pedal (3) upward against the internal pedal stop. 3. For the diagnosis of the stop
light circuit, refer to Electrical Diagnosis. 4. Turn the switch 90 degrees clockwise in order to lock
into position.
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5. Install the electrical connection. 6. Install the drivers side sound insulator.
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Brake Light Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the driver side sound insulator. 2. Remove the electrical connection. 3. Disconnect the
brake switch retainer (2), grasping and turning 90 degrees counter clockwise and pulling towards
the rear of the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Insert the stop lamp switch (2) into the retainer until the switch body seats on the retainer.
2. Pull the brake pedal (3) upward against the internal pedal stop.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 652
^ For the diagnosis of the stop light circuit, refer to Electrical Diagnosis.
^ For adjustment of the stop lamp, refer to Stop Lamp Adjustment.
3. Turn the switch 90 degrees clockwise in order to lock into position. 4. Install the electrical
connection. 5. Install the drivers side sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Dome Lamp Switch: Service and Repair
Dome Lamp Override Switch Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the headlining trim finish panel. 2. Remove the reading lamp switch tabs from the dome
lamp housing. 3. Remove the reading lamp.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the reading lamp switch to the dome lamp housing. 2. Install the headlining trim finish
panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Door Switch: Component Locations
Door Jamb Switch, LH Front
Component Location Views
At the left front door jamb (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 660
Component Location Views
At the left rear door (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Front
At the right front door jamb (left switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Rear
At the right rear door jamb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 661
Door Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 662
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 663
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 664
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 665
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 666
Door Switch: Diagrams
LF Door Jamb Switch
LR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 667
RF Door Jamb Switch
RF Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 668
RR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 672
Fog Lamp Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Hazard Warning Switch: Locations
Windshield Wiper, Passlock (TM), Turn/Hazard, Cruise Control And Headlamp Connectors
At the left side of the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 676
Hazard Warning Switch: Diagrams
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 677
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C2)
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 678
Hazard Warning Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Headlamp Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Interior Light Switch
> Component Information > Locations > LH
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Interior Light Switch
> Component Information > Locations > LH > Page 686
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Interior Light Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > Courtesy/Reading Lamp
Interior Light Switch: Diagrams Courtesy/Reading Lamp
LH Courtesy/Reading Lamp
RH Courtesy/Reading Lamp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Interior Light Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > Courtesy/Reading Lamp > Page 689
Interior Light Switch: Diagrams Courtesy/Reading Lamp Switch
LH Courtesy/Reading Lamp Switch
RH Courtesy/Reading Lamp Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp Switch
> Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications
Turn Signal Switch: Specifications
Turn Signal Switch Assembly
.............................................................................................................................................................
3.4 N.m (30 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 696
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 697
Turn Signal Switch: Diagrams
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 698
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C3)
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C2)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 699
Turn Signal Switch: Testing and Inspection
This diagnosis covers mechanical problems only. Refer to ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS for turn
signal switch electrical diagnosis.
TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT STAY IN TURN POSITION
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT CANCEL
Inspect ^
Loose turn signal switch mounting screws.
^ Broken turn signal switch.
^ Damaged canceling cam.
TURN SIGNAL DIFFICULT TO OPERATE
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Loose turn signal switch mounting screws.
TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT INDICATE LANE CHANGE
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Pinched turn switch wires.
^ Burned out turn indicator panel lights.
HAZARD SWITCH CANNOT BE TURNED OFF
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
HAZARD SWITCH WILL NOT STAY ON OR DIFFICULT TO TURN OFF
Inspect ^
Loose turn signal switch.
^ Hazard switch interference with other components.
^ Foreign material interference to hazard slider lever.
^ Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Misaligned column covers.
NO TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal bulbs.
^ Electrical short in wiring harness.
^ Inoperative turn signal flasher.
^ Loose turn signal switch connector.
^ Damaged turn signal switch.
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS ON, BUT NOT FLASHING
Inspect ^
Bulb burnt out, either in front or back or side of vehicle.
^ Inoperative turn signal flasher.
^ Inoperative turn signal switch.
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS OFF AND NOT FLASHING
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Burned-out or damaged turn signal bulb.
^ High resistance connection to ground at bulb socket.
^ Loose turn signal switch connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 700
^ Faulty turn signal flasher.
NO TURN INDICATOR PANEL LIGHTS
Inspect ^
Burned out bulbs or opens, grounds in the wiring harness from the front turn signal bulb socket to
the indicator lights.
TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS FLASH VERY RAPIDLY OR VERY SLOWLY
Inspect ^
Burned out or damaged turn signal bulbs.
^ Loose turn signal connection.
^ Faulty turn signal flasher.
^ Pinched or grounded wiring harness.
HAZARD SIGNAL LIGHTS WILL NOT FLASH - TURN SIGNAL FUNCTIONS NORMALLY
Inspect ^
Blown fuse.
^ Inoperative hazard warning flasher.
^ Loose turn signal switch connection.
^ Damaged turn signal switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 701
Turn Signal Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 708
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 709
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 710
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 711
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 712
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 713
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 714
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 715
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Information and Instructions > Page 716
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Information and Instructions > Page 717
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 88 in.lb
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Information and Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (LN2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT: Preform a Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure any time you
make a change to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank sensor to
crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect a misfire at all speeds and loads accurately.
Resulting in possibly setting a false misfire DTC. Removing a part for inspection and then
reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could set if you do not
perform this procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used to correlate crankshaft to camshaft position so that
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the
injector. The CMP sensor is also used to determine which cylinder is misfiring when misfire is
present. If the PCM receives an intermittent signal from the CMP, then the CMP Resync Counter
will increment. When the PCM cannot use the information from the CMP sensor, a DTC is set and
the PCM will fuel the engine using the Alternating Synchronous Double Fire (ASDF) method. This
sensor has no effect on the EI system.
A malfunction in the CMP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0341 or P0342
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the R.H. tire assembly. 3. Remove
the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector. 4. Remove the CMP sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. 2. Install the CMP sensor electrical connector. 3.
Install the R.H. tire assembly. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Technical Service Bulletins Instruments Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-010
Date: March, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Erratic and Incorrect Engine Temperature Reading (Bleed Air from Cooling System)
Models: 1998-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-99 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition Some owners may comment about low coolant temperature gauge readings and when
performing diagnosis, the technician may notice coolant temperature readings below the actual
coolant temperature.
Cause There may be a small pocket of air trapped in the coolant temperature sensor fitting on the
radiator inlet pipe. This air pocket insulates the coolant temperature sensor from contact with the
coolant flow causing low temperature gauge readings.
Correction REMOVE THE TRAPPED AIR WITH THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
Caution:
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably
higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank
cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil
instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the
fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
1. With the engine off and at ambient temperature, slowly remove the surge tank cap to relieve
pressure from the cooling system.
2. Locate the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
Notice:
DO NOT APPLY TORQUE DIRECTLY TO THE RADIATOR INLET PIPE! Always use a back up
wrench on the coolant temperature sensor fitting to prevent damage to the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
3. Observe the gap between the bottom of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor and the top
of the hex on the fitting brazed to the radiator inlet pipe. It may be helpful at this point to mark the
coolant temperature sensor thread with a reference mark 5 mm (0.196 in) down from the bottom of
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the hex on the sensor.
4. Slowly loosen the sensor (do not fully remove it) until coolant begins to weep out of the threads.
This will allow any trapped air to escape and will ensure that the coolant is in contact with the
sensor element.
5. Retighten the Coolant Temperature Sensor until there is a 5 mm (0.196 in) gap between the
bottom of the hex on the sensor and the top of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor fitting.
6. Inspect the coolant level in the surge tank, if the coolant is low, add additional coolant to bring
the level up to the "Full Cold" mark on the surge tank. Install the surge tank cap.
7. Start the vehicle and inspect the Coolant Temperature Sensor for leaks and correct temperature
gauge readings.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor 0peration Labor Time
J6368 0.3 hr
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Sensor 25 Nm
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Component Location Views
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 798
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (3) is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor through a resistor in the PCM and monitors the
terminal voltage. Since this forms a series circuit to ground through the ECT sensor, high sensor
resistance (low temperature) will result in high PCM terminal voltage. When the resistance of the
ECT sensor is low (high temperature), the terminal voltage will be drawn lower. This terminal
voltage indicates engine coolant temperature to the PCM.
A hard fault in the ECT sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0117 or P0118. Remember, these
DTCs indicate a malfunction in the engine coolant temperature circuit, so proper use of the DTC
table may lead to either repairing a wiring problem or replacing the sensor, to properly repair a
problem.
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect the
operation of the fuel control system.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Relieve the coolant system pressure. 3. Disconnect the ECT
sensor electrical connector. 4. Carefully back out the ECT sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer. 2. Install the ECT sensor. Tighten the ECT sensor to 25 Nm
(18.5 lb. ft.). 3. Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector. 4. Refill the engine coolant system.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Bolt 88 in.lb
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Page 829
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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867
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor provides a signal to the electronic Ignition Control Module
(ICM), which the PCM uses as a reference to calculate RPM and crankshaft position. A fault in the
CKP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0335.
This system uses a magnetic CKP sensor, mounted remotely from the ICM, which protrudes into
the block within approximately 0.050 of the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel cast
into the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it, six of which are equally spaced (60 degrees
apart). A seventh slot, is spaced 10 degrees from one of the other slots and serves to generate a
sync-pulse. As the reluctor rotates as part of the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of
the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
Based on the CKP sensor pulses, the ICM sends 7X reference signals to the PCM which is used to
indicate crankshaft position and engine speed. The ICM continues to send these reference pulse to
the PCM at a rate of seven per 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. This signal is called the 7X
reference because it occurs 7 times per crankshaft revolution. The 7X reference signal is
necessary for the PCM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors.
By comparing the time between pulses, the PCM can recognize the pulse representing the seventh
slot (sync pulse) which starts the calculation of ignition coil sequencing. The second crank pulse
following the sync pulse signals the PCM to fire the #2-3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse
signals the PCM to fire the #1-4 ignition coil.
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crankshaft
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set. Removing a part for inspection and
then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could be set if this
procedure is not performed. Refer to the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure for the Crankshaft
Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
See Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis for further information.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
harness connector at the module. 3. Remove the CKP sensor mounting bolt (2). 4. Remove the
CKP sensor from the engine (1). 5. Inspect the CKP sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage.
Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (1) into the block. 2. Install the CKP sensor
mounting bolt (2). Tighten the CKP sensor mounting bolts to 8 Nm (71 lb in). 3. Install the CKP
sensor harness connector. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn
Procedure
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set.
Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A
false DTC P0300 could be set if this procedure is not performed.
The learn procedure is required after the following service procedures have been performed,
regardless of whether or not DTC P1336 is set:
^ PCM replacement.
^ Engine replacement.
^ Crankshaft replacement.
^ Crankshaft position sensor replacement.
^ Any engine repair(s) which disturbs the crankshaft/harmonic balancer to the crankshaft position
sensor relationship.
CAUTION: When performing the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure always
set the vehicle parking brake and block the drive wheels in order to prevent Personal injury.
Release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. Once the learn procedure is
completed, engine control will be returned to the operator and the engine will respond to throttle
position.
IMPORTANT: The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. The scan tool connection at
the DLC is clean and tight before starting the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning
Procedure.
1. Close the hood. 2. Block the drive wheels and set the vehicle parking brake. 3. Put the vehicle in
Park or Neutral. 4. Turn all the accessories OFF. 5. Install a scan tool. 6. Start and run the engine
until it is at normal operating temperature 85°C (185°F). 7. With the engine still running, enable the
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure with the scan tool. 8. Press and hold the
brake pedal firmly and raise the engine speed to the specified value, RELEASING the throttle as
soon as the engine cuts out. 9. Verify with the scan tool that the crankshaft variation has been
learned.
Perform this procedure up to 10 times. If the PCM will not learn the variation, a DTC P1336 should
be set. Refer to DTC P1336 CKP System Variation Not Learned for diagnosis. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Level Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
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Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
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Fuel Level Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel level sensor is attached to the modular fuel sender assembly. The resistance of the fuel
sensor changes with fuel level by means of a rheostat. Its range is from 90 ohms with a full tank to
0 ohms with an empty tank. This resistance value is sent to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) and
displayed on the fuel gauge. It is also sent to the PCM over UART serial data, and used for
evaporative emissions system diagnosis.
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Fuel Level Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Drain fuel tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. 4. Remove the fuel
sender assembly. 5. Remove the bumper from modular fuel sender assembly. 6. Remove the fuel
level sensor (1) from modular fuel sender.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Fuel level sensor (1) to the modular fuel sender. 2. Install the bumper to modular fuel sender
assembly. 3. Install the fuel sender assembly. 4. Install the fuel tank. 5. Refill the fuel tank. 6. Install
the negative battery cable. 7. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
7.1. Turn the ignition to the ON position for two seconds. 7.2. Turn the ignition to the OFF position
for ten seconds. 7.3. Turn the ignition to the ON position. 7.4. Check for fuel leaks.
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Fuel Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel tank pressure sensor is similar to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. It is used
to measure the difference between the air pressure (or vacuum) in the fuel tank and the outside air
pressure. The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference and a ground to the sensor and the sensor sends a
voltage signal between 0.1 and 4.9 volts back to the PCM. When the air pressure in the fuel tank is
equal to the outside air pressure, as when the fuel cap is removed, the output voltage of the sensor
will be from 1.3 to 1.7 volts.
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Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 890
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Description and Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
the temperature of air entering the engine), similar to the ECT sensor. Low temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F). The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the IAT sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and monitors the terminal voltage. The voltage will be high when the intake air is cold, and
low when the intake air is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM knows the intake air
temperature. This input is used in starting and running fuel control calculations. A fault in the IAT
sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0112 or DTC P0113.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector. 3. Carefully
remove the IAT sensor from air cleaner outlet duct.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the IAT sensor into the air cleaner outlet duct. 2. Connect the IAT sensor electrical
connector.
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Knock Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 12-16 ft.lb
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Wiring Diagram
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor
Purpose
Varying octane levels in the gasoline can cause a detonation in performance engines. Detonation
is sometimes called a spark knock. A spark knock causes the pistons and the rings to vibrate and
rattle, sometimes producing a knocking sound.
In order to control a spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) is used. This system is designed to retard
the spark timing up to 15 degrees in order to reduce a spark knock in the engine. This allows the
engine to use a maximum spark advance in order to improve driveability and fuel economy.
The PCM uses information from the MAP and coolant sensor in addition to the RPM in order to
calculate the spark advance as follows:
^ Low MAP output voltage equals more spark advance.
^ Cold engine equals more spark advance.
^ High MAP output voltage equals less spark advance.
^ Hot engine equals less spark advance. A low MAP output or high resistance in the Engine
Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit could cause detonation. A high MAP output or low
resistance in the coolant sensor circuit could cause poor performance.
Operation
The KS system has two major components:
^ The KS module.
^ The Knock Sensor (KS).
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
The KS detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is mounted in the
engine block near the cylinders. The sensor produces an AC output voltage which increases with
the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM then adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce the spark knock.
A malfunction in the KS circuit or module will set a DTC P0325.
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Knock Sensor Wiring Harness Connector
Knock Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the Knock Sensor wiring harness connector from the knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock
sensor from the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. After cleaning the threads thoroughly, install the knock sensor into the engine block. Tighten the
knock sensor to 16-22 Nm (12-16 lb ft). 2. Install the KS wiring harness connector to the knock
sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Description and Operation
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor measures the changes in the intake manifold
pressure which result from engine load and speed changes, and converts this measurement into a
voltage output.
The PCM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the MAP sensor. As the manifold pressure changes,
the electrical resistance of the sensor also changes. By monitoring the sensor output voltage, the
PCM can determine the manifold pressure. A higher pressure, low vacuum (high voltage) requires
more fuel, while a lower pressure, higher vacuum (low voltage) requires less fuel.
A closed throttle on when the engine is decelerating would produce a relatively low MAP output,
while a wide open throttle would produce a high output. Manifold absolute pressure is the opposite
of what you would measure on a vacuum gauge. When manifold pressure is high, vacuum is low.
The MAP sensor is also used to measure barometric pressure under certain conditions, which
allows the PCM to automatically adjust for different altitudes.
A high or low voltage fault in the MAP sensor circuit should set a DTC P0107 or DTC P0108. If the
MAP sensor sends an intermittent zero voltage signal to the PCM, a DTC P0106 will set.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector. 3. Remove the
MAP sensor (1) from the intake manifold (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAP sensor (1) to the intake manifold (2). 2. Connect the MAP sensor electrical
connector. 3. Install the throttle body.
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Oil Pressure Sensor: Locations
At the rear center of the engine
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Oil Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the engine oil pressure
sensor (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor (1). 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Lower the
vehicle.
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Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Torque 41 Nm
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Oxygen Sensor: Locations Post Converter Oxygen Sensor
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Oxygen Sensor: Locations Pre-Converter Oxygen Sensor
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Oxygen Sensor 1
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Oxygen Sensor 1
The Oxygen Sensor (O2S 1) is mounted in the exhaust system where it can monitor the oxygen
content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen content in the exhaust reacts with the sensor to
produce a voltage output. This voltage ranges from approximately 0.1 volt (high oxygen-lean
mixture) to 0.9 volt (low oxygen-rich mixture). This voltage can be measured with a scan tool.
By monitoring the voltage output of the O2S 1, the PCM will know what fuel mixture command to
give to the injectors.
- Lean mixture-low O2S 1 voltage = rich command
- Rich mixture-high O2S 1 voltage = lean command
The O2S 1, if open, should set a DTC P0134. A constant low voltage in the sensor circuit should
set a DTC P0131. A constant high voltage in the circuit should set a DTC P0132. DTCs P0131 and
P0132 could also be set as a result of fuel system problems. See the DTC tables for conditions that
can cause a lean or rich system.
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Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
The Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2) is used to monitor the oxygen storage capability of the
catalytic converter. Similar to the O2S 1, the HO2S 2 reacts with the oxygen content in the exhaust
stream to produce a voltage signal, only after the catalytic converter. This voltage ranges from
approximately 0.1 volt (high oxygen-lean mixture) to 0.9 volt (low oxygen-rich mixture). Unlike the
O2S 1, with a good catalytic converter, the HO2S 2 is normal when its activity appears lazy or
inactive. The PCM compares readings from both the front O2S 1 and the HO2S 2 to determine the
catalyst efficiency and will illuminate the MIL if this efficiency falls below a calibrated level.
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Sensor 1
Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Oxygen Sensor 1
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: The oxygen sensor uses a permanently attached pigtail and connector. Do not remove
the pigtail from the oxygen sensor. Damage to or removal of the pigtail of connector could affect
proper operation of the oxygen sensor.
IMPORTANT: Take care when handling the Oxygen Sensor (02S 1). The in-line electrical
connector and louvered end must be kept free of grease, dirt or other contaminants. Avoid using
cleaning solvents of any type. DO NOT drop or roughly handle the O2S 1.
IMPORTANT: The 02S 1 may be difficult to remove when the engine temperature is below 48°C
(120°F).
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF 2. Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor 1 electrical connector.
IMPORTANT: Do not use excessive force when removing the 02S sensor.
3. Carefully remove the Oxygen Sensor 1.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. The
compound consists of a liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite will burn away, but the glass
beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will already have
the compound applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from an engine, and if for any reason
it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have an anti-seize compound applied before reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads to the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound, if necessary. 2. Install the
Oxygen Sensor 1. Tighten the 02S 1 41 Nm (30 lb ft). 3. Connect the Oxygen Sensor 1 electrical
connector.
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Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Heated Oxygen Sensor 2
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: The Heated Oxygen Sensors each use a permanently attached pigtail and connector.
This pigtail should not be removed from the heated oxygen sensor. Damage or removal of the
pigtail or connector could affect proper operation of the heated oxygen sensor.
IMPORTANT: Take care when handling the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 (HO2S 2). The in-line
electrical connector and louvered end like the 02S 1 must be kept free of grease, dirt or other
contaminants. Avoid using cleaning solvents of any type. DO NOT drop or roughly handle the
HO2S 2.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the HO2S 2 electrical connector.
NOTICE: The use of excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust pipe.
3. Carefully remove the rear heated oxygen sensor 2.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the HO2S 2 sensor threads. The
compound consists of a liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite will burn away, but the glass
beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will already have
the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from the exhaust, and if for any
reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have an anti-seize compound applied before
reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads of the HO2S 2 with anti-seize compound, if necessary. 2. Install the HO2S 2.
Tighten the HO2S 2 to 41 Nm (30 lb ft). 3. Connect the HO2S 2 electrical connector.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
TP Screws 3 Nm
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1074
Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1096
Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
TP Sensor Service
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor (2) is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the
throttle body. The TP sensor electrical circuit consists of a 5 volt supply line and a ground line, both
provided by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and a signal line to the PCM. By monitoring the
voltage on this signal line, the PCM can calculate throttle position angle in a percentage. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor also
changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low (approximately 0.6 volt).
As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage
should be near 5 volts.
The PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or
loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle,
because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A high or low voltage problem in the TP sensor
circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123. The PCM also has the capability of setting a
DTC P0121 if the sensor is reading out of range. Once a diagnostic trouble code is set, the PCM
will use a default value for the TP sensor, and some vehicle performance will return.
See TP Sensor Replacement for replacement of the TP sensor. The TP sensor is not adjustable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the PCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Tables for testing information. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
TP Sensor Service
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator. 2. Remove the throttle body. 3. Remove the TP sensor
attaching screws (1). 4. Remove the TP sensor (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed (idle) position, install the throttle position sensor (2)
on the throttle body assembly.
IMPORTANT: Install the new TP sensor attaching screws when replacing the TP sensor.
2. Install the two TP sensor screws (1). Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (27 lb in). 3. Install the throttle
body. 4. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator.
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Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1122
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1123
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
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Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1129
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1130
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
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Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1131
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1132
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
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Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
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Diagrams > C1 > Page 1135
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
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Diagnostic Chart
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Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Locations > Page 1144
Component Location Views
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Locations > Page 1145
Component Location Views
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Information and Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (3T40)
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Wiring Diagram
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a permanent magnet generator in the transaxle which sends
an AC voltage signal to the PCM, which the PCM converts to Kilometers Per Hour (km/h) and Miles
Per Hour (MPH). There are several different types of vehicle speed sensors.
Refer to Automatic Transmission for more information.
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Location Views
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1221
Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor
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1222
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the system fuel pressure. 3. Drain fuel tank. 4.
Remove the fuel tank. 5. Remove the electrical connector from the fuel tank pressure sensor. 6.
Remove the fuel tank pressure sensor (1) from modular fuel sender.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new fuel tank pressure sensor (1) to modular fuel sender. 2. Install the electrical
connector to fuel tank pressure sensor. 3. Install the fuel tank. 4. Refill tank. 5. Install the negative
battery cable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
TP Screws 3 Nm
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Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
TP Sensor Service
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor (2) is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the
throttle body. The TP sensor electrical circuit consists of a 5 volt supply line and a ground line, both
provided by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and a signal line to the PCM. By monitoring the
voltage on this signal line, the PCM can calculate throttle position angle in a percentage. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor also
changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low (approximately 0.6 volt).
As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage
should be near 5 volts.
The PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or
loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle,
because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A high or low voltage problem in the TP sensor
circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123. The PCM also has the capability of setting a
DTC P0121 if the sensor is reading out of range. Once a diagnostic trouble code is set, the PCM
will use a default value for the TP sensor, and some vehicle performance will return.
See TP Sensor Replacement for replacement of the TP sensor. The TP sensor is not adjustable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the PCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Tables for testing information. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
TP Sensor Service
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator. 2. Remove the throttle body. 3. Remove the TP sensor
attaching screws (1). 4. Remove the TP sensor (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed (idle) position, install the throttle position sensor (2)
on the throttle body assembly.
IMPORTANT: Install the new TP sensor attaching screws when replacing the TP sensor.
2. Install the two TP sensor screws (1). Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (27 lb in). 3. Install the throttle
body. 4. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 88 in.lb
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (LN2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT: Preform a Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure any time you
make a change to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank sensor to
crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect a misfire at all speeds and loads accurately.
Resulting in possibly setting a false misfire DTC. Removing a part for inspection and then
reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could set if you do not
perform this procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used to correlate crankshaft to camshaft position so that
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the
injector. The CMP sensor is also used to determine which cylinder is misfiring when misfire is
present. If the PCM receives an intermittent signal from the CMP, then the CMP Resync Counter
will increment. When the PCM cannot use the information from the CMP sensor, a DTC is set and
the PCM will fuel the engine using the Alternating Synchronous Double Fire (ASDF) method. This
sensor has no effect on the EI system.
A malfunction in the CMP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0341 or P0342
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the R.H. tire assembly. 3. Remove
the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector. 4. Remove the CMP sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. 2. Install the CMP sensor electrical connector. 3.
Install the R.H. tire assembly. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Bolt 88 in.lb
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor provides a signal to the electronic Ignition Control Module
(ICM), which the PCM uses as a reference to calculate RPM and crankshaft position. A fault in the
CKP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0335.
This system uses a magnetic CKP sensor, mounted remotely from the ICM, which protrudes into
the block within approximately 0.050 of the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel cast
into the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it, six of which are equally spaced (60 degrees
apart). A seventh slot, is spaced 10 degrees from one of the other slots and serves to generate a
sync-pulse. As the reluctor rotates as part of the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of
the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
Based on the CKP sensor pulses, the ICM sends 7X reference signals to the PCM which is used to
indicate crankshaft position and engine speed. The ICM continues to send these reference pulse to
the PCM at a rate of seven per 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. This signal is called the 7X
reference because it occurs 7 times per crankshaft revolution. The 7X reference signal is
necessary for the PCM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors.
By comparing the time between pulses, the PCM can recognize the pulse representing the seventh
slot (sync pulse) which starts the calculation of ignition coil sequencing. The second crank pulse
following the sync pulse signals the PCM to fire the #2-3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse
signals the PCM to fire the #1-4 ignition coil.
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crankshaft
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set. Removing a part for inspection and
then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could be set if this
procedure is not performed. Refer to the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure for the Crankshaft
Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
See Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis for further information.
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Position Sensor Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
harness connector at the module. 3. Remove the CKP sensor mounting bolt (2). 4. Remove the
CKP sensor from the engine (1). 5. Inspect the CKP sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage.
Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (1) into the block. 2. Install the CKP sensor
mounting bolt (2). Tighten the CKP sensor mounting bolts to 8 Nm (71 lb in). 3. Install the CKP
sensor harness connector. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn
Procedure
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set.
Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A
false DTC P0300 could be set if this procedure is not performed.
The learn procedure is required after the following service procedures have been performed,
regardless of whether or not DTC P1336 is set:
^ PCM replacement.
^ Engine replacement.
^ Crankshaft replacement.
^ Crankshaft position sensor replacement.
^ Any engine repair(s) which disturbs the crankshaft/harmonic balancer to the crankshaft position
sensor relationship.
CAUTION: When performing the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure always
set the vehicle parking brake and block the drive wheels in order to prevent Personal injury.
Release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. Once the learn procedure is
completed, engine control will be returned to the operator and the engine will respond to throttle
position.
IMPORTANT: The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. The scan tool connection at
the DLC is clean and tight before starting the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning
Procedure.
1. Close the hood. 2. Block the drive wheels and set the vehicle parking brake. 3. Put the vehicle in
Park or Neutral. 4. Turn all the accessories OFF. 5. Install a scan tool. 6. Start and run the engine
until it is at normal operating temperature 85°C (185°F). 7. With the engine still running, enable the
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure with the scan tool. 8. Press and hold the
brake pedal firmly and raise the engine speed to the specified value, RELEASING the throttle as
soon as the engine cuts out. 9. Verify with the scan tool that the crankshaft variation has been
learned.
Perform this procedure up to 10 times. If the PCM will not learn the variation, a DTC P1336 should
be set. Refer to DTC P1336 CKP System Variation Not Learned for diagnosis. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Bulletins > Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised Replacement Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised
Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 02 - Steering
Bulletin No.: 01-02-35-010
Date: November, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Lock Cylinder Replacement
Models: 1995-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure in the Steering
Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The following information was omitted from the Service Manual:
If you replace the ignition lock cylinder, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the system
enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle. During
the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes. The instrument
cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle. Ensure that
the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the ignition switch
before the indicator stops flashing, ensure that you repeat the long tamper cycle from the
beginning.
Important:
Due to component variability, the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system must have the learn
procedure performed regardless, even if the vehicle starts on the first ignition cycle after a VTD
repair.
All codes in the theft deterrent module must be cleared for a relearn.
DISCLAIMER
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Knock Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 12-16 ft.lb
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Wiring Diagram
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor
Purpose
Varying octane levels in the gasoline can cause a detonation in performance engines. Detonation
is sometimes called a spark knock. A spark knock causes the pistons and the rings to vibrate and
rattle, sometimes producing a knocking sound.
In order to control a spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) is used. This system is designed to retard
the spark timing up to 15 degrees in order to reduce a spark knock in the engine. This allows the
engine to use a maximum spark advance in order to improve driveability and fuel economy.
The PCM uses information from the MAP and coolant sensor in addition to the RPM in order to
calculate the spark advance as follows:
^ Low MAP output voltage equals more spark advance.
^ Cold engine equals more spark advance.
^ High MAP output voltage equals less spark advance.
^ Hot engine equals less spark advance. A low MAP output or high resistance in the Engine
Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit could cause detonation. A high MAP output or low
resistance in the coolant sensor circuit could cause poor performance.
Operation
The KS system has two major components:
^ The KS module.
^ The Knock Sensor (KS).
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
The KS detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is mounted in the
engine block near the cylinders. The sensor produces an AC output voltage which increases with
the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM then adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce the spark knock.
A malfunction in the KS circuit or module will set a DTC P0325.
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Knock Sensor Wiring Harness Connector
Knock Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the Knock Sensor wiring harness connector from the knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock
sensor from the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. After cleaning the threads thoroughly, install the knock sensor into the engine block. Tighten the
knock sensor to 16-22 Nm (12-16 lb ft). 2. Install the KS wiring harness connector to the knock
sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Component Information > Specifications
Impact Sensor: Specifications Front End Descriminating Sensor
Front End Descriminating Sensor
Mounting Fasteners 10 Nm
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Component Location Views
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Description
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Auxiliary Discriminating Sensor
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Impact Sensor: Description and Operation
The presence of an inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor enhances the SIR system
performance. Use of the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor provides timely
deployment of the air bags during some crashes. Although this is a mechanical sensor, it is not a
part of the deployment loop but instead only provides an input signal to the inflatable restraint
Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM).
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Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Front End Discriminating Sensor
Important Preliminary Precautions
CAUTION: Be careful when you handle a sensor. Do not strike or jolt a sensor. Before applying
power to a sensor:
^ Remove any dirt, grease, etc. from the mounting surface.
^ Position the sensor horizontally on the mounting surface.
^ Point the arrow on the sensor toward the front of the vehicle.
^ Tighten all of the sensor fasteners and sensor bracket fasteners to the specified torque value.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
Removal Procedure
1. Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System.
2. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the inflatable restraint front end
discriminating sensor harness connector.
3. Disconnect the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor harness connector from the
sensor.
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4. Remove the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor mounting fasteners (2). 5.
Remove the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor (1) from the hood latch support
bracket (3).
Installation Procedure
1. Install the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor (1) to the hood latch support bracket
(3).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
2. Install the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor mounting fasteners (2).
Tighten Tighten fasteners to 10 N.m (89 lb. in).
3. Connect the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor harness connector to the sensor.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor > Page 1415
4. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the inflatable restraint front end discriminating
sensor harness connector. 5. Enable the SIR system. Refer to Enabling the SIR System.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor > Page 1416
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Sensor Replacement Guidelines
The SIR sensor replacement policy requires replacing sensors in the area of accident damage. The
area of accident damage is defined as the portion of the vehicle which is crushed, bent, or
damaged due to a collision. For example, a moderate collision where the front of the vehicle
impacts a tree. If the vehicle has a SIR sensor mounted forward of the radiator, it must be replaced.
^ Replace the sensor whether or not the air bags have deployed.
^ Replace the sensor even if it appears to be undamaged.
Sensor damage which is not visible, such as slight bending of the mounting bracket or cuts in the
wire insulation, can cause improper operation of the SIR sensing system. Do not try to determine
whether the sensor is undamaged, replace the sensor. Also, if you follow a Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC) table and a malfunctioning sensor is indicated, replace the sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Buckle
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Component Locations
At the left passenger compartment, under the left seat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Buckle
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 1421
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Buckle
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1422
Seat Belt Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Passenger Presence System Information
Seat Occupant Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Passenger Presence System
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-50-009F
Date: December 23, 2010
Subject: Information on Passenger Presence Sensing System (PPS or PSS) Concerns With
Custom Upholstery, Accessory Seat Heaters or Other Comfort Enhancing Devices
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Equipped with Passenger Presence Sensing
System
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-50-009E (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Concerns About Safety and Alterations to the Front Passenger Seat
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE THE
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT AS RELEASED BY GM FOR THAT
VEHICLE. DO NOT ALTER THE SEAT COVERS OR SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT. ANY
ALTERATIONS TO SEAT COVERS OR GM ACCESSORIES DEFEATS THE INTENDED DESIGN
OF THE SYSTEM. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF
SUCH IMPROPER SEAT ALTERATIONS, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS INCURRED.
The front passenger seat in many GM vehicles is equipped with a passenger sensing system that
will turn off the right front passenger's frontal airbag under certain conditions, such as when an
infant or child seat is present. In some vehicles, the passenger sensing system will also turn off the
right front passenger's seat mounted side impact airbag. For the system to function properly,
sensors are used in the seat to detect the presence of a properly-seated occupant. The passenger
sensing system may not operate properly if the original seat trim is replaced (1) by non-GM covers,
upholstery or trim, or (2) by GM covers, upholstery or trim designed for a different vehicle or (3) by
GM covers, upholstery or trim that has been altered by a trim shop, or (4) if any object, such as an
aftermarket seat heater or a comfort enhancing pad or device is installed under the seat fabric or
between the occupant and the seat fabric.
Aftermarket Seat Heaters, Custom Upholstery, and Comfort Enhancing Pads or Devices
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE ONLY
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT RELEASED AS GM
ACCESSORIES FOR THAT VEHICLE. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER TYPE OF SEAT COVERS OR
SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT, OR GM ACCESSORIES RELEASED FOR OTHER VEHICLE
APPLICATIONS. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF SUCH
IMPROPER SEAT ACCESSORIES, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS MADE
NECESSARY BY SUCH USE.
Many types of aftermarket accessories are available to customers, upfitting shops, and dealers.
Some of these devices sit on top of, or are Velcro(R) strapped to the seat while others such as seat
heaters are installed under the seat fabric. Additionally, seat covers made of leather or other
materials may have different padding thickness installed that could prevent the Passenger Sensing
System from functioning properly. Never alter the vehicle seats. Never add pads or other devices to
the seat cushion, as this may interfere with the operation of the Passenger Sensing System and
either prevent proper deployment of the passenger airbag or prevent proper suppression of the
passenger air bag.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 1431
Clutch Pedal Position Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised
Replacement Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised
Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 02 - Steering
Bulletin No.: 01-02-35-010
Date: November, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Lock Cylinder Replacement
Models: 1995-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure in the Steering
Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The following information was omitted from the Service Manual:
If you replace the ignition lock cylinder, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the system
enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle. During
the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes. The instrument
cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle. Ensure that
the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the ignition switch
before the indicator stops flashing, ensure that you repeat the long tamper cycle from the
beginning.
Important:
Due to component variability, the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system must have the learn
procedure performed regardless, even if the vehicle starts on the first ignition cycle after a VTD
repair.
All codes in the theft deterrent module must be cleared for a relearn.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Specifications
Neutral Safety Switch: Specifications
Neutral Start Switch .............................................................................................................................
...........................................................4 N.m (35 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1442
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1443
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1444
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1445
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1446
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1447
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1448
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1449
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1450
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1451
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1452
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1453
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1469
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1470
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1471
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1472
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic
Transaxle
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch (S) .............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic
Transaxle > Page 1479
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch Assembly Bolts
......................................................................................................................................................... 12
Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1480
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 1489
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 1490
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1496
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1497
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 1498
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 1499
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 1502
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1503
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1504
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Transmission Speed Sensor: Specifications
Sensor, Output Speed (Stud)-M6 x 1.0 x 15.0 (Qty 1)
........................................................................................................................ 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Speed Sensor Housing To Case
.............................................................................................................................................................
11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1508
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7
Manual Transmission
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) lead from the transaxle. 2. Remove the VSS bolt. 3.
Remove the VSS retainer.
4. Remove the VSS assembly. 5. Remove the O-ring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7
Manual Transmission > Page 1511
1. Lubricate a new O-ring with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent. 2.
Install the new O-ring. 3. Install the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) assembly. 4. Install the VSS
retainer. 5. Install the VSS bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Connect the VSS lead to the transaxle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7
Manual Transmission > Page 1512
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Disconnect the electrical
connector. 3. Remove the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
4. Remove the vehicle speed sensor from the case extension.
5. Remove the O-ring from the vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the O-ring onto the vehicle speed sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7
Manual Transmission > Page 1513
2. Install the vehicle speed sensor into the case extension.
3. Install the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Power Window Switch: Component Locations
Location View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 1519
Location View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 1520
Power Window Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 1521
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LR
Power Window Switch: Diagrams LR
LR Window Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 1524
LR Window Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 1525
Power Window Switch: Diagrams Master Window Switch
Master Window Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 1526
Master Window Switch (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 1527
Power Window Switch: Diagrams RR
RR Window Switch
RR Window Switch (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 1528
RR Window Switch (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
DOOR INSIDE HANDLE BEZEL AND POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH
Door Inside Handle Bezel And Power Door Lock Switch - Pontiac
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pull door inside handle to the full open position. 2. Press on inside handle bezel. 3. Pry door
inside handle bezel from top using a flat blade tool. 4. Pull door inside bezel upward. 5. (Front Door
Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 6. Front door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 1531
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. (Front Door Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 2. Pull door inside handle to the full open
position. 3. Insert front tab on door inside bezel to locating notch behind front edge of opening in
door trim panel. 4. Push door inside bezel downward to insert lower tab behind lower edge of door
trim panel. 5. Insert rear most lowest tab of door inside bezel to edge of door trim panel. 6. Snap
into place the top two tabs on door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 1532
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Upper Extension Trim Panel Replacement
Hardtop
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the finish screw that retains the bezel to the front door upper trim.
2. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 1533
3. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control power mirror bezel to the front door
upper trim. 4. Disconnect the power mirror switch. (Power windows only). 5. Remove the upper trim
finish panel from the front door.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 1534
2. Install the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
3. Connect the power mirror switch to the front door upper trim finish panel. (Power window only).
4. Install the front door upper trim finish panel to the remote control power mirror bezel. (Power
window only).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
5. Install the screw to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Convertible
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 1535
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the screw (5). 2. Remove the upper front panel (4). 3. Remove the mirror patch filler (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the mirror patch filler (3). 2. Install the upper front panel (4).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the screw (5).
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 1536
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Power Window Switch Replacement
POWER WINDOW SWITCH (HARDTOP)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver in order to pry the power window switch outward. 2. Disconnect
the power window switch wire harness. 3. Remove the power window switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the power window switch wire harness. 2. Install the power window switch. Ensure the
unit is retained.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Wiper Switch: Locations
Windshield Wiper, Passlock (TM), Turn/Hazard, Cruise Control And Headlamp Connectors
At the right side of the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1541
Wiper Switch Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1542
Wiper Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Remove upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Headlight switch
assembly. 6. Windshield wiper switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Windshield wiper switch assembly. 2. Upper and lower steering column covers. 3. Tilt lever to
column (if used). 4. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
Alignment: Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Bulletin No.: 05-03-07-009C
Date: December 09, 2010
Subject: Wheel Alignment Specifications, Requirements and Recommendations for GM Vehicles
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being extensively revised to provide technicians and warranty
administrators with an all inclusive guide for wheel alignments. PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT
SERVICE. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-07-009B (Section 03 - Suspension).
Purpose
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide retail, wholesale and fleet personnel with General Motors'
warranty service requirements and recommendations for customer concerns related to wheel
alignment. For your convenience, this bulletin updates and centralizes all of GM's Standard Wheel
Alignment Service Procedures, Policy Guidelines and bulletins on wheel alignment warranty
service.
Important PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING
YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT SERVICE.
The following five (5) key steps are a summary of this bulletin and are REQUIRED in completing a
successful wheel alignment service.
1. Verify the vehicle is in an Original Equipment condition for curb weight, tires, wheels, suspension
and steering configurations. Vehicles
modified in any of these areas are not covered for wheel alignment warranty.
2. Review the customer concern relative to "Normal Operation" definitions. 3. Verify that vehicle is
within the "Mileage Policy" range. 4. Document wheel alignment warranty claims appropriately for
labor operations E2000 and E2020.
The following information must be documented or attached to the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
5. Use the proper wheel alignment equipment (preferred with print-out capability), process and the
appropriate calibration maintenance schedules.
Important If it is determined that a wheel alignment is necessary under warranty, use the proper
labor code for the repair. E2000 for Steering Wheel Angle and/or Front Toe set or E2020 for Wheel
Alignment Check/Adjust includes Caster, Camber and Toe set (Wheel alignment labor time for
other component repairs is to be charged to the component that causes a wheel alignment
operation.).
The following flowchart is to help summarize the information detailed in this bulletin and should be
used whenever a wheel alignment is performed.
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Verify Original Equipment Condition of the Vehicle
- Verify that Original Equipment Tires and Wheels or Official GM Accessory Tires and Wheels are
on the vehicle.
- Verify that aftermarket suspension "Lift" or "Lowering" Kits or other suspension alterations have
NOT been done to the vehicle.
- Check for accidental damage to the vehicle; for example, severe pothole or curb impacts, collision
damage that may have affected the wheel alignment of the vehicle; e.g., engine cradles,
suspension control arms, axles, wheels, wheel covers, tires may show evidence of damage/impact.
- Check to be sure vehicle has seen "Normal Use" rather than abuse; e.g., very aggressive driving
may show up by looking at the tires and condition of the vehicle.
- Check for other additional equipment items that may significantly affect vehicle mass such as
large tool boxes, campers, snow plow packages (without the snowplow RPO), etc., especially in
trucks and cutaway/incomplete vehicles. Significant additional mass can affect trim height and
wheel alignment of the vehicle and may necessitate a customer pay wheel alignment when placed
semi-permanently in the vehicle (Upfitter instructions are to realign the vehicle after placement of
these types of items. (This typically applies to trucks and incomplete vehicles that can be upfit with
equipment such as the above.)
Customer Concerns, "Normal Operation" Conditions and "Mileage Policy"
Possible Concerns
The following are typical conditions that may require wheel alignment warranty service:
1. Lead/Pull: defined as "at a constant highway speed on a typical straight road, the amount of
effort required at the steering wheel to maintain the
vehicle's straight heading."
Important Please evaluate for the condition with hands-on the steering wheel. Follow the "Vehicle
Leads/Pulls" diagnostic tree located in SI to determine the cause of a lead/pull concern. Lead/Pull
concerns can be due to road crown or road slope, tires, wheel alignment or even in rare
circumstances a steering gear issue. Lead/pull concerns due to road crown are considered
"Normal Operation" and are NOT a warrantable condition -- the customer should be advised that
this is "Normal Operation."
Important Some customers may comment on a "Lead/Pull" when they hold the steering wheel in a
level condition. If so, this is more likely a "steering wheel angle" concern because the customer is
"steering" the vehicle to obtain a "level" steering wheel.
2. Steering wheel angle to the left or right (counter-clockwise or clockwise, respectively): Defined
as the steering wheel angle (clocking)
deviation from "level" while maintaining a straight heading on a typical straight road.
3. Irregular or Premature tire wear: Slight to very slight "feathering" or "edge" wear on the
shoulders of tires is NOT considered unusual and
should even out with a tire rotation; if the customer is concerned about a "feathering" condition of
the tires, the customer could be advised to rotate the tires earlier than the next scheduled
mileage/maintenance interval (but no later than the next interval). Be sure to understand the
customer's driving habits as this will also heavily influence the tire wear performance; tire wear from
aggressive or abusive driving habits is NOT a warrantable condition.
Important Slight or mild feathering, cupping, edge or heel/toe wear of tire tread shoulders is
"normal" and can show up very early in a tire/vehicle service mileage; in fact, some new tires can
show evidence of feathering from the factory. These issues do NOT affect the overall performance
and tread life of the tire. Dealer personnel should always check the customer's maintenance
records to ensure that tire inflation pressure is being maintained to placard and that the tires are
being rotated (modified-X pattern) at the proper mileage intervals. Wheel alignments are NOT to be
performed for the types of "Normal" Tire Feathering shown in Figures 1-4 below.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Figure 1: Full Tread View - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder/Adjacent/Center
Ribs
Figure 2: Tire Shoulder View Example 1 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder
Figure 3: Tire Shoulder View Example 2 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Figure 4: Detail Side View of Tire Shoulder Area - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Important When a wheel alignment is deemed necessary for tire wear, be sure to document on the
repair order, in as much detail as possible, the severity and type of tire wear (e.g., severe center
wear or severe inside or outside shoulder wear) and the position of the tire on the vehicle (RF, LF,
LR, RR). Please note the customer's concern with the wear such as, noise, appearance, wear life,
etc. A field product report with pictures of the tire wear condition is recommended. Refer to
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-00-89-002J and #07-00-89-036C.
4. Other repairs that affect wheel alignment; e.g., certain component replacement such as
suspension control arm replacement, engine cradle
adjustment/replace, steering gear replacement, steering tie rod replace, suspension strut/shock,
steering knuckle, etc. may require a wheel alignment.
Important If other components or repairs are identified as affecting the wheel alignment, policy calls
for the wheel alignment labor time to be charged to the replaced/repaired component's labor
operation time rather than the wheel alignment labor operations.
Important Vibration type customer concerns are generally NOT due to wheel alignment except in
the rare cases; e.g., extreme diagonal wear across the tread. In general, wheel alignments are
NOT to be performed as an investigation/correction for vibration concerns.
"Normal Operation" Conditions
Vehicle Lead/Pull Due to Road Crown or Slope:
As part of "Normal Operation," vehicles will follow side-to-side or left to right road crown or slope.
Be sure to verify from the customer the types of roads they are driving as they may not recognize
the influence of road crown on vehicle lead/pull and steering wheel angle. If a vehicle requires
significant steering effort to prevent it from "climbing" the road crown there may be an issue to be
looked into further.
Important
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A wheel alignment will generally NOT correct vehicles that follow the road crown since this is within
"Normal Operation."
Mileage Policy
The following mileage policy applies for E2020 and E2000 labor operations: Note
Wheel Alignment is NOT covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for Express and Savana
Cutaway vehicles as these vehicles require Upfitters to set the wheel alignment after completing
the vehicles.
- 0-800 km (0-500 mi): E2000/E2020 claims ONLY allowed with Call Center Authorization. Due to
the tie down during shipping, the vehicle's suspension requires some time to reach normal
operating position. For this reason, new vehicles are generally NOT to be aligned until they have
accumulated at least 800 km (500 mi). A field product report should accompany any claim within
this mileage range.
- 801-12,000 km (501-7,500 mi):
- If a vehicle came from the factory with incorrect alignment settings, any resulting off-angle
steering wheel, lead/pull characteristics or the rare occurrence of excessive tire wear would be
apparent early in the life of the vehicle. The following policy applies:
- Vehicles 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe - Escalade/ESV/EXT,
Tahoe/Suburban, Yukon/XL/Denali, Silverado/Sierra, Express/Savana, Corvette and
Colorado/Canyon: E2000/E2020 Claims: Call Center Authorization Required
- All Vehicles NOT 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe as noted above:
E2000/E2020 Claims: Dealer Service Manager Authorization Required
- 12,001 km and beyond (7,501 miles and beyond): During this period, customers are responsible
for the wheel alignment expense or dealers may provide on a case-by case basis a one-time
customer enthusiasm claim up to 16,000 km (10,000 mi). In the event that a defective component
required the use of the subject labor operations, the identified defective component labor operation
will include the appropriate labor time for a wheel alignment as an add condition to the component
repair.
Important Only one wheel alignment labor operation claim (E2000 or E2020) may be used per VIN.
Warranty Documentation Requirements
When a wheel alignment service has been deemed necessary, the following items will need to be
clearly documented on/with the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
1. Document the customer concern in as much detail as possible on the repair order and in the
warranty administration system. Preferred examples:
- Steering wheel is off angle in the counterclockwise direction by approximately x degrees or
clocking position.
- Vehicle lead/pulls to the right at approximately x-y mph. Vehicle will climb the road crown. Severe,
Moderate or Slight.
- RF and LF tires are wearing on the outside shoulders with severe feathering.
Important In the event of a lead/pull or steering wheel angle concern, please note the direction of
lead/pull (left or right) or direction of steering wheel angle (clockwise or counterclockwise) on the
repair order and within the warranty claim verbatim.
Important In the event of a tire wear concern, please note the position on the vehicle and where the
wear is occurring on the tire; i.e., the RF tire is wearing on the inside shoulder.
2. Document the technician's findings on cause and correction of the issue. Examples:
- Reset LF toe from 0.45 degrees to 0.10 degrees and RF toe from -0.25 degrees to 0.10 degrees
to correct the steering wheel angle from 5 degrees counterclockwise to 0 degrees.
- Reset LF camber from 0.25 degrees to -0.05 degrees to correct the cross-camber condition of
+0.30 degrees to 0.00 degrees on the vehicle.
- Front Sum toe was found to be 0.50 degrees, reset to 0.20 degrees.
3. Print-out the "Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings and attach them to the
Repair Order or if print-out capability is not
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available, measurements may also be clearly and legibly handwritten into the Wheel Alignment
Repair Order Questionnaire attached to this bulletin.
4. Attach the Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire below along with the print-out of
"Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements to
the Repair Order and retain for use by GM.
Wheel Alignment Equipment and Process
Wheel alignments must be performed with a quality machine that will give accurate results when
performing checks. "External Reference" (image-based camera technology) is preferred. Please
refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 05-00-89-029B: General Motors Dealership Critical Equipment
Requirements and Recommendations.
Requirements:
- Computerized four wheel alignment system.
- Computer capable of printing before and after alignment reports.
- Computer capable of time and date stamp printout.
- Racking system must have jacking capability
- Racking system must be capable of level to 1.6 mm (1/16 in)
- Appropriate wheel stops and safety certification
- Built-in turn plates and slip plates
- Wheel clamps capable of attaching to 20" or larger wheels
- Racking capable of accepting any GM passenger car or light duty truck
- Operator properly trained and ASE-certified (U.S. only) in wheel alignment
Recommendations:
Racking should have front and rear jacking capability.
Equipment Maintenance and Calibration:
Alignment machines must be regularly calibrated in order to give correct information. Most
manufacturers recommend the following:
- Alignment machines with "internal reference" sensors should be checked (and calibrated, if
necessary) every six months.
- Alignment machines with "external reference" (image-based camera technology) should be
checked (and calibrated, if necessary) once a year.
- Racks must be kept level to within 1.6 mm (1/16 in).
- If any instrument that is part of the alignment machine is dropped or damaged in some way,
check the calibration immediately.
Check with the manufacturer of your specific equipment for their recommended service/calibration
schedule.
Wheel Alignment Process
When performing wheel alignment measurement and/or adjustment, the following steps should be
taken:
Preliminary Steps:
1. Verify that the vehicle has a full tank of fuel (compensate as necessary). 2. Inspect the wheels
and the tires for damage. 3. Inspect the tires for the proper inflation and irregular tire wear. 4.
Inspect the wheel bearings for excessive play. 5. Inspect all suspension and steering parts for
looseness, wear, or damage. 6. Inspect the steering wheel for excessive drag or poor return due to
stiff or rusted linkage or suspension components. 7. Inspect the vehicle trim height. 8. Compensate
for frame angle on targeted vehicles (refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI).
Satisfactory vehicle operation may occur over a wide range of alignment angles. However, if the
wheel alignment angles are not within the range of specifications, adjust the wheel alignment to the
specifications. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI. Give consideration to excess loads,
such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. Follow the wheel alignment equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
Measure/Adjust:
Important Prior to making any adjustments to wheel alignment on a vehicle, technicians must verify
that the wheel alignment specifications loaded into their wheel alignment machine are up-to-date
by comparing these to the wheel alignment specifications for the appropriate model and model year
in SI. Using incorrect and/or outdated specifications may result in unnecessary adjustments,
irregular and/or premature tire wear and repeat customer concerns
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Important When performing adjustments to vehicles requiring a 4-wheel alignment, set the rear
wheel alignment angles first in order to obtain proper front wheel alignment angles.
Perform the following steps in order to measure the front and rear alignment angles:
1. Install the alignment equipment according to the manufacturer's instructions. 2. Jounce the front
and the rear bumpers 3 times prior to checking the wheel alignment. 3. Measure the alignment
angles and record the readings.
If necessary, adjust the wheel alignment to vehicle specification and record the before and after
measurements. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI.
Important Technicians must refer to SI for the correct wheel alignment specifications. SI is the only
source of GM wheel alignment specifications that is kept up-to-date throughout the year.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper repair.
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Frame Angle Measurement (Express / Savana Only) ........
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What corrected the customer concern and was the repair verified?
Please Explain: .............
Disclaimer
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Alignment: Technical Service Bulletins Alignment - Latest Available Specifications
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 83-31-09
Date: October, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Alignment Specifications
Models: 1998-99 Passenger Cars and Trucks
This bulletin is being issued to communicate, in chart form, the final 1998 and the initial 1999 model
year vehicle alignment specifications.
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1557
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1558
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Specifications noted in these charts are the latest available and supersede any that have been
previously published.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride (Trim)
Height Specifications
Alignment: Specifications Vehicle Ride (Trim) Height Specifications
J And K Measurements
Model: 2JB37/2JB69 Suspension: FE1/FE2 Tire Size: P/195/70R14 Z: 12 mm (15/32 in) J: 233 mm
(9.17 in)
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K: 240 mm (9.45 in)
Model: 2JB37/2JB69 Suspension: FE1/FE2 Tire Size: P/195/65R15 Z: 6 mm (16/64 in) J: 233 mm
(9.17 in) K: 240 mm (9.45 in)
Model: 2JB67 Suspension: FE1/FE2 Tire Size: P/195/65R15 Z: 6 mm (16/64 in) J: 233 mm (9.17
in) K: 240 mm (9.45 in)
All measurements taken with a full fuel tank. Measurements for J, K, and Z all have +/- 10 mm (3/8
in).
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Alignment: Specifications Alignment Specifications
Wheel Alignment Specifications
Front Caster:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 1.45° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 1.00°
Front Camber:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 1.00°
Individual Toe:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.12°
Sum Toe:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.25°
Cross Camber:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 1.00°
Cross Caster:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 1.00°
Rear Camber:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
.............................................................. -0.40° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.75°
Rear Sum Toe:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.20° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.30°
Rear Thrust Angle:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.25°
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description
Alignment: Description and Operation General Description
Wheel alignment refers to the angular relationship between the wheels, the control arms, the
suspension and the ground. When measured, the vehicle should have a full fuel tank, no
passengers, and no other loading or items in the trunk or passenger compartment.
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Description > Page 1566
Alignment: Description and Operation Caster Description
The caster is the tilting of the front steering axis (at the top) (1) either forward or backward from the
vertical. A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). The caster influences
directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear. The caster is affected by vehicle
height, therefore it is important to keep the body at the designed height. Overloading the vehicle, or
a weak or sagging rear spring, will affect the caster. When the rear of the vehicle is lower than the
designed trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the
vehicle is higher than the designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive
caster.
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Description > Page 1567
Alignment: Description and Operation Camber Description
The camber is the tilting of the front wheels from the vertical (1) when viewed from the front of the
vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt
inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the
vertical. The camber setting will influence the directional control and the tire wear.
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Description > Page 1568
Alignment: Description and Operation Toe Description
The toe is a measurement of how much the front of the wheels are turned in or out from a
straight-ahead position. When the wheels are turned in, the toe is positive (+). When the wheels
are turned out, the toe is negative (-). The actual amount of toe is nominally only a fraction of a
degree. The purpose of the toe is to ensure that the wheels roll parallel. The toe also serves to
offset the small deflections of the wheel support system that occurs when the vehicle is rolling
forward. In other words, even when the wheels are set to toe in or out slightly when the vehicle is
standing still, the wheels tend to roll parallel on the road when the vehicle is moving. The toe
affects tire wear.
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Description > Page 1569
Alignment: Description and Operation
General Description
Wheel alignment refers to the angular relationship between the wheels, the control arms, the
suspension and the ground. When measured, the vehicle should have a full fuel tank, no
passengers, and no other loading or items in the trunk or passenger compartment.
Caster Description
The caster is the tilting of the front steering axis (at the top) (1) either forward or backward from the
vertical. A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). The caster influences
directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear. The caster is affected by vehicle
height, therefore it is important to keep the body at the designed height. Overloading the vehicle, or
a weak or sagging rear spring, will affect the caster. When the rear of the vehicle is lower than the
designed trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the
vehicle is higher than the designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive
caster.
Camber Description
The camber is the tilting of the front wheels from the vertical (1) when viewed from the front of the
vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt
inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the
vertical. The camber setting will influence the directional control and the tire wear.
Toe Description
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Description > Page 1570
The toe is a measurement of how much the front of the wheels are turned in or out from a
straight-ahead position. When the wheels are turned in, the toe is positive (+). When the wheels
are turned out, the toe is negative (-). The actual amount of toe is nominally only a fraction of a
degree. The purpose of the toe is to ensure that the wheels roll parallel. The toe also serves to
offset the small deflections of the wheel support system that occurs when the vehicle is rolling
forward. In other words, even when the wheels are set to toe in or out slightly when the vehicle is
standing still, the wheels tend to roll parallel on the road when the vehicle is moving. The toe
affects tire wear.
Thrust Angles Description
The front wheels aim or steer the vehicle, but the rear wheels control the tracking. This tracking
action is relative to thrust angle. Thrust angle (2) is defined as the path that the rear wheels will
take. Ideally, the thrust angle is geometrically aligned with the body centerline (1).
Lead/Pull Description
Lead/Pull is the deviation of the vehicle from a straight path, on a level road with no pressure on
the steering wheel.
Lead/Pull is generally caused by the following conditions:
^ A misconstructed tire.
^ An uneven brake adjustment.
^ A misaligned wheel.
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a vehicle. An example of this is placement of
the belt. Off-center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to develop a side force while rolling
straight down the road and the tire will tend to roll like a cone.
The RADIAL TIRE LEAD/PULL CORRECTION chart should be used to make sure that the front
wheel alignment is not mistaken for tire lead. Rear tires will not cause lead.
Torque Steer Description
Some degree of torque steer to the right may normally be experienced during a heavy throttle
application on some front wheel drive vehicles which do not have equal length drive axles. This is
due to the right drive axle being longer than the left axle and an associated difference in an axle
angle. Vehicles with intermediate shaft assembly have almost equal length axles.
A difference in axle length results in more torque toe-in effect to the left front wheel. This condition
can be noticed when accelerating from a standing start or at lower speeds. A simple measurement
in order to determine the degree of torque steer is to place a small piece of tape at the top center of
the steering wheel. Drive the vehicle and note the inches of steering wheel deflection required to
steer the vehicle straight under heavy acceleration. A comparison of like vehicles will determine if a
particular vehicle has a greater than normal degree of torque steer. The following factors may
cause the torque steer to be more apparent on a particular vehicle:
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Description > Page 1571
^ A slightly smaller diameter tire on the right front will increase a right torque lead. Inspect the front
for a difference in brand, construction or size. If the tires appear similar, change the front tires side
to side and re-set the vehicle. Tire and wheel assemblies have the most significant effect on the
torque steer correction.
^ A large difference in the right and left front tire pressure.
^ Any looseness in the control arm bushings, the tie rod assemblies, or the steering gear mounting
which permits a front wheel to pull forward and toe-in under torque more than the opposite side. A
loose suspension component may also result in an opposite lead deceleration.
^ A high front trim height which would increase the drive angle axle.
^ A binding or tight drive axle joint. A tight joint or high front trim height may also exhibit a wobble
condition between 24 and 48 km/h (15 and 30 mph).
^ An incorrect, worn or loose engine mounts causes adverse drive axle angles.
^ An unequal engine/transmission height from the left side to the right side of the vehicle.
Determine the measuring points. Replace the engine/transmission mount if the difference from side
to side is more than 6 mm (17/64 in). Do not shim the engine mounts. This may cause other
symptoms.
^ On occasion, the side to side trim height differences may be the result of an inoperative stabilizer
shaft. Disconnect the stabilizer links. Measure the trim heights again after the vehicle has been
settled, driven a short distance. Replace the stabilizer shaft, if the side to side difference is
corrected. Do not change the stabilizer shaft however, if there is no change in the trim height. A
trim height difference of more than 6 mm (17/64 in), indicates a bent stabilizer shaft, attaching links
or a suspension component that may need replacement.
The following conditions affect the vehicle handling and/or a constant right or left lead separate
from torque steer causes. The existence of one or more of these conditions may compound a
torque steer complaint.
^ An incorrect front-wheel alignment or a rear-wheel alignment condition would cause the vehicle to
track incorrectly. A difference in the front wheel to the rear wheel measurement. compared side to
side may indicate a dog track condition or one front wheel ahead of the other due to a
misalignment or other condition. A substantial caster difference is an indication of misalignment or
other condition. The front-wheel caster should be equal or within specifications and the camber
may be biased slightly in-order to offset a lead condition.
^ Suspension support misalignment. Refer to BODY AND FRAME for measurement points in order
to determine proper underbody alignment. Front steering damage such as a bent strut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering
Alignment: Testing and Inspection Hard Steering
Hard Steering - Part 1 Of 2
Hard Steering - Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering >
Page 1574
Alignment: Testing and Inspection Memory Steer
Memory Steer - Part 1 Of 2
Memory Steer - Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering >
Page 1575
Alignment: Testing and Inspection Torque Steer
Some degree of torque steer to the right may normally be experienced during heavy throttle
application on some front-wheel-drive vehicles that do not have equal length drive axles. This is
due to the right drive axle being longer than the left axle and the associated difference in axle
angle. Vehicles with intermediate shaft assemblies have almost equal length axles. A difference in
axle length results in more torque toe-in effect to the left front wheel. This condition can be noticed
when accelerating from a standing start or at lower speeds. A simple measurement in order to
determine the degree of torque steer is to place a small piece of tape at the top center of the
steering wheel. Drive the vehicle and note the inches of steering wheel deflection required in order
to steer the vehicle straight under heavy acceleration. A comparison of like vehicles will then
determine if a particular vehicle has a greater than normal degree of torque steer. The following
factors may cause the torque steer to be more apparent on a particular vehicle:
^ A large difference in the right and the left front tire pressure.
^ A slightly smaller diameter tire on the right front will increase a right torque lead. Inspect the front
tires for a difference in brand, construction, or size. If the tires appear similar, change the front tires
side to side and re-test the vehicle. The tire and the wheel assemblies have the most significant
effect on torque steer correction.
^ Any looseness in control arm bushings, tie rod assemblies or steering gear mounting which
permits a front wheel to pull forward and toe-in under torque more than the opposite side. A loose
suspension component may also result in an opposite lead on deceleration.
^ High front trim height which would increase drive axle angle.
^ Binding or tight drive axle joints. A tight joint or high front trim height may also exhibit a wobble
condition between 24 and 48 km/h (14 and 30 mph)
^ Incorrect, worn, or loose engine mounts causing adverse drive axle angles.
^ Unequal engine/transmission height from the left side to the right side of the vehicle. If a
difference from side to side is more than 6 mm (17/64 in) , change the trim heights by installing a
stronger spring in the side which is lower, or a weaker spring in the side which is shorter than the
specified Z heights. Replace the mounts. Do not shim the engine mounts as this may cause other
symptoms.
^ On occasion, side-to-side trim height differences may be the result of a faulty stabilizer shaft. In
order to check this, disconnect the stabilizer links and re-measure the trim heights. If the
side-to-side difference is corrected, replace the stabilizer shaft. If there is no change in the trim
height, do not change the stabilizer shaft. A trim height difference of more than 6 mm (17/64 in),
indicates a possible bent stabilizer shaft, attaching links, or a bent suspension component that may
need replacement.
The following conditions affect the vehicle handling and/or effect a constant right or left lead
separate from torque steer causes. The existence of one or more of these conditions may
compound a torque steer complaint.
^ Incorrect front-wheel alignment or a rear-wheel alignment condition which would cause the
vehicle to track incorrectly. A difference in the front wheel to rear wheel measurement compared
side to side may indicate a dog track condition or one front wheel ahead of the other due to a
misalignment or other condition. A substantial caster difference is an indication of misalignment or
an other condition. Front-wheel caster should be equal or within the specifications and the camber
may be biased slightly in order to offset a lead condition.
^ Suspension support misalignment. Refer to UNDERBODY, which lists measurement points in
order to determine proper underbody alignment.
^ Front suspension damage, such as a bent strut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering >
Page 1576
Vehicle Leads/Pulls
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering >
Page 1577
Alignment: Testing and Inspection
Hard Steering - Part 1 Of 2
Hard Steering - Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering >
Page 1578
Memory Steer - Part 1 Of 2
Memory Steer - Part 2 Of 2
Torque Steer
Some degree of torque steer to the right may normally be experienced during heavy throttle
application on some front-wheel-drive vehicles that do not have equal length drive axles. This is
due to the right drive axle being longer than the left axle and the associated difference in axle
angle. Vehicles with intermediate shaft assemblies have almost equal length axles. A difference in
axle length results in more torque toe-in effect to the left front wheel. This condition can be noticed
when accelerating from a standing start or at lower speeds. A simple measurement in order to
determine the degree of torque steer is to place a small piece of tape at the top center of the
steering wheel. Drive the vehicle and note the inches of steering wheel deflection required in order
to steer the vehicle straight under heavy acceleration. A comparison of like vehicles will then
determine if a particular vehicle has a greater than normal degree of torque steer. The following
factors may cause the torque steer to be more apparent on a particular vehicle:
^ A large difference in the right and the left front tire pressure.
^ A slightly smaller diameter tire on the right front will increase a right torque lead. Inspect the front
tires for a difference in brand, construction, or size. If the tires appear similar, change the front tires
side to side and re-test the vehicle. The tire and the wheel assemblies have the most significant
effect on torque steer correction.
^ Any looseness in control arm bushings, tie rod assemblies or steering gear mounting which
permits a front wheel to pull forward and toe-in under torque more than the opposite side. A loose
suspension component may also result in an opposite lead on deceleration.
^ High front trim height which would increase drive axle angle.
^ Binding or tight drive axle joints. A tight joint or high front trim height may also exhibit a wobble
condition between 24 and 48 km/h (14 and 30 mph)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering >
Page 1579
^ Incorrect, worn, or loose engine mounts causing adverse drive axle angles.
^ Unequal engine/transmission height from the left side to the right side of the vehicle. If a
difference from side to side is more than 6 mm (17/64 in) , change the trim heights by installing a
stronger spring in the side which is lower, or a weaker spring in the side which is shorter than the
specified Z heights. Replace the mounts. Do not shim the engine mounts as this may cause other
symptoms.
^ On occasion, side-to-side trim height differences may be the result of a faulty stabilizer shaft. In
order to check this, disconnect the stabilizer links and re-measure the trim heights. If the
side-to-side difference is corrected, replace the stabilizer shaft. If there is no change in the trim
height, do not change the stabilizer shaft. A trim height difference of more than 6 mm (17/64 in),
indicates a possible bent stabilizer shaft, attaching links, or a bent suspension component that may
need replacement.
The following conditions affect the vehicle handling and/or effect a constant right or left lead
separate from torque steer causes. The existence of one or more of these conditions may
compound a torque steer complaint.
^ Incorrect front-wheel alignment or a rear-wheel alignment condition which would cause the
vehicle to track incorrectly. A difference in the front wheel to rear wheel measurement compared
side to side may indicate a dog track condition or one front wheel ahead of the other due to a
misalignment or other condition. A substantial caster difference is an indication of misalignment or
an other condition. Front-wheel caster should be equal or within the specifications and the camber
may be biased slightly in order to offset a lead condition.
^ Suspension support misalignment. Refer to UNDERBODY, which lists measurement points in
order to determine proper underbody alignment.
^ Front suspension damage, such as a bent strut.
Vehicle Leads/Pulls
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering >
Page 1580
Wander Or Poor Steering Stability
Dog Tracking
Body Leans Or Sways In Corners
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering >
Page 1581
Suspension Bottoms
Noisy Front Suspension
Abnormal Or Excessive Tire Wear - Part 1 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard Steering >
Page 1582
Abnormal Or Excessive Tire Wear - Part 2 Of 2
Wheel Bearings Diagnosis
Wheel Bearings Diagnosis
CAUTION: front wheel drive vehicles, drive wheel spin should be limited to 35 mph as indicated on
the speedometer. This limit is necessary because the speedometer only Indicates one-half of the
actual wheel speed when one drive wheel is spinning and the other drive wheel Is stopped. Unless
care is taken In limiting drive wheel spin, the spinning wheel can reach excessive speeds. This can
result in possible tire disintegration or differential failure, which could cause serious personal injury
or extensive vehicle damage.
Wheel Tramp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Inspection
PRELIMINARY INSPECTIONS
The steering and the ride complaints are not always the result of improper alignment. Another
possibility is tire lead due to worn or improperly manufactured tires. The lead is the vehicle's
deviation from a straight path on a level road without pressure on the steering wheel. Refer to
VEHICLE LEADS/PULLS in SUSPENSION GENERAL DIAGNOSIS for the procedure to determine
if the vehicle had a lead problem. Before making any adjustment affecting wheel alignment, make
the following inspections in order to ensure correct the alignment readings and the alignment
adjustments.
Inspect 1. Inspect all the tires for the proper inflation pressures. Also check that the tires have
about the same tread wear. 2. Inspect the hub and bearing assemblies for excessive wear. Correct
as necessary. 3. Inspect the ball joints and the tie rod ends; if they are loose, correct them before
adjusting. 4. Inspect the vehicle trim height. If it is out of limits and a correction is to be made, do so
before adjusting the alignment. Refer to TRIM HEIGHT
SPECIFICATIONS in SUSPENSION GENERAL DIAGNOSIS.
5. Inspect the strut dampeners for proper operation. 6. Inspect the control arms for loose bushings.
7. Inspect the stabilizer shaft for loose or missing parts. 8. Inspect the suspension and the steering
components for damage and replace the parts as necessary.
Consideration must be given to excess loads, such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. If the items
are normally carried in the vehicle, the items should remain in the vehicle during alignment
adjustments. Loads such as these should be centered in the vehicle whenever possible to minimize
their effects. Consideration should also be given to the condition of the equipment being used in
order to adjust the alignment. Be sure to follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
Regardless of the equipment used to adjust the alignment, the vehicle must be on a level surface,
both fore-and-aft and sideways.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection > Page 1585
Alignment: Service and Repair Ride/Trim Height Measurement and Adjustment
1. Prior to measuring the vehicle trim height, prepare the vehicle as follows: 2. Ensure that the
following conditions exist:
2.1. The fuel gage reads full. 2.2. The spare tire and the tools are properly located. 2.3. The vehicle
is free of the ice, the snow and the mud accumulations.
3. Set the front and the rear tire pressure to within plus or minus 20 kPa (3 psi) of the
recommended pressure shown on the tire placard. If two load
conditions are shown on the placard, use the lower load condition.
4. Close the engine compartment hood and all of the doors. 5. Up to 7 kg (15.5 lb) may be left in
the trunk if it is located approximately on the vehicle centerline. Remove the items necessary in
order to meet
this requirement.
6. Measure the vehicle trim height as follows:
^ Z and J Dimensions: Lift the front bumper of the vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in).
Gently remove your hands and let the vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure Z
and J dimensions. Push the front bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently repeat
twice for a total of 3 times. Measure Z and J dimensions. True heights are the average of the high
and low measurements.
^ K dimension: Lift the rear bumper of the vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently
remove your hands and let the vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure K
dimension. Push the rear bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently remove your
hands and let the vehicle rise on its own. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure K dimension.
True heights are the average of the high
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection > Page 1586
and low measurements.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection > Page 1587
Alignment: Service and Repair Front Wheel Alignment
Measuring Front Alignment Angles
MEASURING FRONT ALIGNMENT ANGLES
Important: ^
Install the alignment equipment following the manufacturer's instructions.
^ Jounce the front and rear bumpers three times to normalize the suspension prior to measuring
the angles.
^ Measure the alignment angles and record the readings. If adjustments are necessary, make them
in the following order: 1. Camber. 2. Toe.
Front Caster Adjustment
The caster is not adjustable. If the caster angle is not within specifications, inspect for suspension
support misalignment or front suspension damage. Replace the parts as necessary. Refer to
BODY AND FRAME for measurement points in order to determine the proper underbody
alignment.
Front Camber Adjustment
Important: When the camber adjustment is necessary, refer to STRUT AND KNUCKLE SCRIBING
for instructions on modifying the front strut.
1. Loosen both of the strut to knuckle nuts in order to allow slight movement. 2. Adjust the camber
to specification by moving the top of the wheel in or out. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT
SPECIFICATIONS. 3. Tighten the strut to the knuckle nuts.
Tighten Tighten the strut to the knuckle nuts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
Front Toe Adjustment
1. Be sure the steering wheel is set in a straight ahead position within +/- 5°. 2. Loosen the clamp
bolt (4). 3. Adjust the toe to specification by turning the adjuster (3).
Tighten Tighten the jam nut to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection > Page 1588
Refer to FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection > Page 1589
Alignment: Service and Repair Rear Wheel Alignment
MEASURING REAR ALIGNMENT ANGLES
After the front wheel alignment has been completed, the rear alignment angles should be checked
if there is excessive rear tire wear or the wheels do not track properly. The rear wheels should be
parallel to and the same distance from the vehicle's centerline.
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Rear wheel alignment is not adjustable. If the camber and toe angles are not within the
specifications, inspect for underbody or rear suspension damage. Refer to BODY AND FRAME to
determine proper underbody alignment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Pressure
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel System Pressure
Fuel System Pressure
Key On Engine Off 41-47 psi
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Pressure > Page 1595
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Volume
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1596
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1597
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1598
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1599
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1600
Diagnostic Chart
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will turn ON the
in-tank fuel pump. The in-tank fuel pump will remain ON as long as the engine is cranking or
running and the PCM is receiving reference pulses. If there are no reference pulses, the PCM will
turn OFF the in-tank fuel pump for 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON or for 2 seconds
after the engine stops running. The in-tank fuel pump is an electric pump within an integral
reservoir. The in-tank fuel pump supplies fuel through an in-line fuel filter to the fuel rail assembly.
The fuel pump is designed to provide fuel at a pressure above the pressure that is needed by the
fuel injectors. A fuel pressure regulator, attached to the fuel rail assembly, keeps the fuel available
to the fuel injectors at a regulated pressure. The unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank by a
separate fuel return pipe.
TEST DESCRIPTION
The number(s) below refer(s) to the step number(s) on the Diagnostic Table.
2. In order to relieve the fuel pressure, go to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure When the ignition is
ON and the fuel pump is running, the fuel pressure
indicated by the fuel pressure gauge should be 284-325 kPa (41-47 psi).
3. A fuel system that drops more than 5 psi in 10 minutes has a leak in one or more of the following
areas:
^ The fuel pump check valve
^ The fuel pump flex pipe
^ The valve or valve seat within the fuel pressure regulator
^ The fuel injector(s)
5. Fuel pressure that drops-off during acceleration, cruise or hard cornering may cause a lean
condition. A lean condition can cause a loss of power,
surging, or a misfire. You can use a scan tool in order to diagnose a lean condition. If an extremely
lean condition occurs, the oxygen sensors will stop toggling. The oxygen sensor output voltage(s)
will drop below 500 mV. Also, the fuel injector pulse width will increase.
8. When the engine is idling, the manifold pressure is low (high vacuum). This low pressure (high
vacuum) is applied to the fuel pressure regulator
diaphragm. The low pressure (high vacuum) will offset the pressure being applied to the fuel
pressure regulator diaphragm by the spring inside of
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1601
the fuel pressure regulator. This will cause lower fuel pressure. The fuel pressure at idle will vary
slightly as the barometric pressure changes, but the fuel pressure at idle should always be less
than the fuel pressure noted in Step 2 with the engine turned OFF.
12. A rich condition may result from the fuel pressure being above 325 kPa (47 psi). A rich
condition can cause a DTC P0132 or a DTC P0172 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with rich conditions can include hard starting (followed by
black smoke) and a strong sulfur smell in the exhaust.
13. This test determines if the high fuel pressure is due to a restricted fuel return pipe or if the high
fuel pressure is due to a malfunctioning fuel
pressure regulator.
15. Fuel pressure being below 284 kPa (41 psi) can cause a lean condition. A lean condition may
cause a DTC P0131 or a DTC P0171 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with lean conditions can include hard starting (when the
engine is cold), a hesitation, poor driveability, a lack of power, surging, and misfiring.
16. Restricting the fuel flow causes the fuel pressure to rise above the regulated fuel pressure.
Using a scan tool in order to pressurize the system, the
fuel pressure should rise above 325 kPa (47 psi) as the gauge outlet hose is pinched.
22. Check the spark plug that is associated with a particular fuel injector for fouling or saturation in
order to determine if that particular fuel injector is
leaking.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air
Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 >
Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 >
Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1617
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb >
07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb >
07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1623
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 1629
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 1630
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 1631
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 1637
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 1638
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 1639
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1640
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the upper air cleaner screws. 2. Remove the upper air cleaner cover (1). 3. Remove the
air cleaner filter (2) from lower air cleaner housing (3). 4. Inspect the air cleaner filter for dust, dirt
and water. 5. Replace if required. Refer to Maintenance.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the air cleaner filter (2) into the lower air cleaner housing (3). 2. Install the upper air
cleaner cover (1) to lower air cleaner housing. 3. Install the upper air cleaner screws. Tighten the
upper air cleaner cover screws to 3 Nm (26 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Procedure
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank pressure (do not tighten at this time). 2.
Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Start
and run the engine until the fuel supply remaining in the fuel pipes is consumed. Engage the starter
for 3.0 seconds in order to assure relief of
any remaining pressure.
6. Raise the vehicle. 7. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9.
Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order > Component
Information > Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order: Specifications Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order .........................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 1-3-4-2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Number One
Cylinder > Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Number One Cylinder: Locations Number 1 Cylinder Location
NUMBER ONE CYLINDER LOCATION
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks
and Indicators > System Information > Locations
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Locations
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug Gap ...................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 1.01 mm (.040 in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap > Page 1664
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Torque
Spark Plug Torque ...............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1665
Spark Plug: Application and ID
AC Type ...............................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 41-928
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1666
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Worn or dirty plugs may give satisfactory operation at idling speed, but under operating conditions
they frequently fail. Faulty plugs are indicated in a number of ways: poor fuel economy, power loss,
loss of speed, hard starting and general poor engine performance.
Spark plugs may also fail due to carbon fouling, excessive gap, or a broken insulator.
Fouled plugs Fouled plugs are identified by black carbon deposits. The black deposits are usually
the result of slow-speed driving and short runs where sufficient engine operating temperature is
seldom reached. Worn pistons, rings, faulty ignition, over-rich air/fuel mixture and spark plugs
which are too cold will also result in carbon deposits.
Excessive gap Excessive gap wear, on plugs of low mileage, usually indicates the engine is
operating at high speeds or loads that are consistently greater than normal or that a plug which is
too hot is being used. Electrode wear may also be the result of plug overheating, caused by
combustion gases leaking past the threads, due to insufficient spark plug torque or too much spark
plug torque. An excessively lean air/fuel mixture will also result in excessive electrode wear.
Broken insulator Broken insulators are usually the result of improper installation or carelessness
when regapping the plug. Broken upper insulators usually result from a poor fitting wrench or an
outside impact. The cracked insulator may not show up right away, but will as soon as oil or
moisture penetrates the crack. The crack is usually just below the crimped part of the shell and
may not be visible.
Broken lower insulators usually result from carelessness when regapping and generally are visible.
This type of break may result from the plug operating too "hot," which may happen in periods of
high-speed operation or under heavy loads. When regapping a spark plug, always make the gap
adjustment by bending the ground (side) electrode. Spark plugs with broken insulators should
always be replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Conventional Ignition
Spark Plug: Service and Repair Conventional Ignition
Description
Description
Removal Procedure
1. Turn the ignition key OFF. 2. Remove foreign material from around the spark plug holes. 3.
Remove the wires from the plugs. 4. Remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket.
Installation Procedure
1. Adjust the spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gauge. While gapping the plug
be sure to keep the platinum pads aligned to
ensure maximum plug life.
2 Install new plugs and tighten properly.
3. Reapply dielectric lubricant to the insulator boot. Tighten to 18 Nm (13 lb ft). 4. Reattach the
boots to the plugs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Conventional Ignition > Page 1669
Spark Plug: Service and Repair Integrated Direct Ignition
Removal Procedure
Tools Required
J 36011 Spark Plug Connector Assembly Removal Tool
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the integrated Direct Ignition (IDI) assembly 4
bolts and connector. 3. Remove by pulling straight up on the housing. 4. Use the J 36011 to
remove connector assembly(s) is stuck to the spark plugs. Use the tools by first twisting then
pulling up on the connector
assembly.
5. Remove the debris from the area around the spark plugs. 6. Remove the spark plugs using a
spark plug socket.
Installation Procedure
1. Adjust the spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gauge. While gapping the plug
be sure to keep the platinum pads aligned to
ensure maximum plug life.
2. Hand start the spark plugs into the cylinder head and tighten. Tighten the plugs to 18 Nm (13 lb
ft). 3. Reinstall onto the IDI any spark plug boot connector assembly that stuck to a spark plug.
^ Check to be sure the spring terminal is inside the boot.
^ Reapply dielectric lubricant to the insulator boot.
4. Locate the IDI assembly over the spark plugs and push straight down. 5. Remove any loose
lubricant that is present on the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts.
IMPORTANT: Hand start the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts.
6. Apply threadlocker onto the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts. Tighten the bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb
ft). 7. Install the electrical connector. 8. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check > System
Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading
should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating
temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1673
Compression Check: Testing and Inspection
ENGINE COMPRESSION TEST
Perform the following steps in order to conduct a compression test for VIN 4: 1. Conduct the
following steps in order to check cylinder compression:
1.1. Engine should be at room temperature.
1.2. Disconnect wiring from the ignition module.
1.3. Remove the spark plugs.
1.4. Throttle body valve should be wide open.
1.5. Battery should be at or near full charge.
2. For each cylinder, crank engine through four compression strokes. 3. The lowest reading
cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest. 4. No cylinder reading should be less
than 689 kPa (100 psi).
IMPORTANT: The results of a compression test will fall into the following categories: ^
Normal-Compression builds up quickly and evenly to specified compression on each cylinder.
^ Piston Rings-Compression low on first stroke. Tends to build up on following strokes but does not
reach normal. Improves considerably with addition of oil.
^ Valves-Compression low on first stroke. Does not tend to build up on the following strokes. Does
not improve much with addition of oil. Use approximately three squirts from a plunger-type oiler.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
This engine uses hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustment is necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
- Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-06-01-008A
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Diagnosing Accessory Drive Belt / Serpentine Belt Noise and Availability and Use of
Kent-Moore EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add a model year and update the Tool Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-01-008 (Section 06 - Engine).
Background
Several aftermarket companies offer laser alignment tools for accessory drive systems that can be
very helpful in eliminating drive belt noise as a result of misaligned pulleys. Typically pricing ranges
from $160 - $200.
EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
The GM Tool program has now made available a competitive, simple to use and time-saving laser
tool to assist in achieving precise alignment of the drive belt pulleys. This optional tool removes the
guesswork from proper pulley alignment and may serve to reduce comebacks from:
- Drive Belt Noise
- Accelerated Drive Belt Wear
- Drive Belt Slippage
Instructions
The instructions below are specific only to the truck Gen IV V-8 family of engines. These
instructions are only for illustrative purposes to show how the tool may be used. Universal
instructions are included in the box with the Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt.
Caution
- Do not look directly into the beam projected from the laser.
- Use caution when shining the laser on highly polished or reflective surfaces. Laser safety glasses
help reduce laser beam glare in many circumstances.
- Always use laser safety glasses when using the laser. Laser safety glasses are not designed to
protect eyes from direct laser exposure.
1. Observe and mark the serpentine belt orientation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
- Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 1681
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the accessory drive system.
3. Install the tool onto the power steering pulley. Position the legs of the tool into the outer grooves
of the pulley, farthest from the front of the
engine.
4. Install the retaining cord around the pulley and to the legs of the tool.
5. Put on the laser safety glasses provided with the tool. 6. Depress the switch on the rear of the
tool to activate the light beam. 7. Rotate the power steering pulley as required to project the light
beam onto the crankshaft balancer pulley grooves. 8. Inspect for proper power steering pulley
alignment.
- If the laser beam projects onto the second rib or raised area (1), the pulleys are aligned properly.
- If the laser beam projects more than one-quarter rib 0.9 mm (0.035 in) mis-alignment, adjust the
position of the power steering pulley as required.
- Refer to SI for Power Steering Pulley Removal and Installation procedures.
9. Install the serpentine belt to the accessory drive system in the original orientation.
10. Operate the vehicle and verify that the belt noise concern is no longer present.
Tool Information
Please visit the GM service tool website for pricing information or to place your order for this tool.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
- Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 1682
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
- Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 1683
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-01-013
Date: April 29, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Serpentine Belt Wear
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
All current GM vehicles designed and manufactured in North America were assembled with
serpentine belts that are made with an EPDM material and should last the life of the vehicle. It is
extremely rare to observe any cracks in EPDM belts and it is not expected that they will require
maintenance before 10 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi) of use.
Older style belts, which were manufactured with a chloroprene compound, may exhibit cracks
depending on age. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about
halfway through its usable life.
A good rule of thumb for chloroprene-based belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart,
ALL AROUND THE BELT, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be
considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be
considered as indicative that the belt needs changing.
Any belt that exhibits chunking should be replaced.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
1684
Drive Belt: Specifications
SERPENTINE BELT
Belt tension is maintained by a spring tensioned idler pulley. No adjustment of the serpentine belt is
necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drive Belt
Replacement
Drive Belt: Service and Repair Drive Belt Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
IMPORTANT: Do not exceed 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) on the tensioner center bolt.
2. Rotate the belt tensioner clockwise. Use a 15 mm wrench.
3. Slide the belt from the generator pulley. 4. Release the tensioner.
5. If the vehicle has A/C remove the drive belt from the A/C compressor pulley.
6. Remove the drive belt.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drive Belt
Replacement > Page 1687
1. Route the drive belt. 2. If the vehicle has A/C route the drive belt around the A/C compressor
pulley. 3. Rotate the belt tensioner clockwise. Use a 15 mm wrench.
4. Slide the belt onto the generator pulley. 5. Release the tensioner.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drive Belt
Replacement > Page 1688
Drive Belt: Service and Repair Pump Drive Belt
SERPENTINE BELT
Vehicles equipped with a 2.2L engine have the power steering pump driven by a serpentine belt.
The serpentine belt is self-adjusting within tensioner operating limits. For on-vehicle service of the
serpentine belt, refer to ENGINE.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1702
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine,
A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine,
A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1708
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1709
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the upper air cleaner screws. 2. Remove the upper air cleaner cover (1). 3. Remove the
air cleaner filter (2) from lower air cleaner housing (3). 4. Inspect the air cleaner filter for dust, dirt
and water. 5. Replace if required. Refer to Maintenance.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the air cleaner filter (2) into the lower air cleaner housing (3). 2. Install the upper air
cleaner cover (1) to lower air cleaner housing. 3. Install the upper air cleaner screws. Tighten the
upper air cleaner cover screws to 3 Nm (26 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/T - PWM Filter Removal
Fluid Filter - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - PWM Filter Removal
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-016
Date: September, 2000
Subject: Removal Of The PWM Filter From The Spacer Plate - 4T40E/4T45E Automatic
Transmission
Models: 1998-2000
Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu
1998-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2000 Oldsmobile Alero
1998-2000 Pontiac Sunfire
1999-2000 Pontiac Grand Am
with 4T40E or 4T45E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN4, MN5)
The PWM filter (Item 17), which snaps into the spacer plate, has been eliminated. The use of a
filter in this location is redundant. The PWM has its own filter located on the solenoid. Pictures of
the spacer plate and the filter location on the spacer plate as shown.
The PWM filter which was located in the spacer plate has been removed from GMSPO inventory
and is no longer available.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Filter - A/T: Service and Repair 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
A/T Fluid/Filter Changing (Remove)
PREPARATION
^
Tools Required J 35944-A Oil Cooler and Line Flusher
- J 35944-20 Cooler Flushing Fluid
Whenever you remove a transmission for service, do a transmission oil cooler flushing. It is
essential to flush the oil cooler under the following conditions: ^
After a major overhaul
^ Suspected contamination
^ Pump or torque converter replacement For complete transmission service, perform the flush
procedure after the overhauled or replacement assembly is installed in the vehicle.
1. Remove the fill cap on the J 35944-A. 2. Fill the can with 0.6 liter (20-21 ounces) of J 35944-20,
or equivalent, cooler flushing fluid. Do not overfill. If you overfill, the tool will need
recharging with air before the backflush.
3. Follow the manufacturer's suggested procedures for proper handling of the solution.
IMPORTANT: Shop air supply must not exceed 825 kPa (120 psi), and must be equipped with a
water/oil filter.
4. Secure the fill cap, and pressurize the flusher can with shop air to 550-700 kPa (80-100 psi). 5.
Connect the J 35944-A to the transmission end of the transmission cooler pipe that feeds the
bottom fitting of the oil cooler. 6. Connect the discharge hose to the top oil cooler pipe. 7. Clip the
discharge hose to the oil drain container. 8. With the water valve on the tool in the OFF position,
connect the water hose from the water supply to the tool. 9. Turn ON the water supply at the
faucet.
INITIAL FLUSHING
IMPORTANT: If water does not flow through the cooler the system is completely plugged. Do not
complete the flushing procedure. Replace the cooler and/or the cooler pipes as required.
1. Switch the water valve on the tool to the ON position. Allow the water to flow through the oil
cooler for 10 seconds in order to remove the
transmission fluid in the system.
2. Switch the water valve on the tool to the OFF position. Clip the discharge hose onto a 5 gallon
pail with a lid. If no lid is available, place a shop
towel over the end of the hose in order to prevent splash. The discharge will foam vigorously when
you introduce solution into the water stream.
3. Switch the water valve on the tool to the ON position. Depress the trigger that mixes the flushing
solution into the water flow. Use the bale clip on
the handle in order to hold down the trigger.
4. Flush the oil cooler with water and solution for 2 minutes. During the flush, attach the air supply
to the air valve on the tool for 3-5 seconds after
every 15-20 second interval in order to create a surging action.
5. Release the trigger. Switch the water valve on the tool to the OFF position. 6. Disconnect both
hoses from the oil cooler pipes.
BACKFLUSH
1. Connect the hoses to the oil cooler pipes in order to perform a backflush. 2. Switch water valve
on the tool to the ON position. Depress the trigger in order to mix the flushing solution with the
water flow. Use the bale clip
on the handle to hold down the trigger.
3. Flush the oil cooler with water and solution for 2 minutes. During this flush, attach the air supply
to the air valve on the tool for 3-5 seconds after
each 15-20 second interval in order to create a surging action.
4. Release the trigger. Allow water only to rinse the oil cooler for 1 minute. 5. Turn the water supply
OFF at the faucet. 6. Attach the air supply to the air valve on the tool. Dry out the system with air
for at least 2 minutes. Dry out the system longer than 2 minutes, if
moisture from the oil cooler line discharge hose is visible.
7. Connect the cooler feed pipe to the transmission. The cooler feed is the bottom connection at
the transmission. 8. If not already connected, attach the discharge hose to the cooler return pipe.
Place the hose into an appropriate drain container. 9. After filling the transmission with
DEXRON(R) III or DEXRON(R) IIE automatic transmission fluid, or equivalent, start the engine.
Run the
engine for 30 seconds. This removes any residual moisture from the oil cooler and the cooler
pipes, protects all the components from corrosion, and checks the flow rate through the cooler.
10. You should get a minimum of 1.9 liters (2 quarts) of transmission fluid during this 30 second
run. If the flow of fluid is insufficient, disconnect
the oil cooler feed line at the radiator and restart the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1716
11. If the flow is insufficient, inspect the transmission for cause. Inspect the cooler pipes and
fittings. Repeat the cooler flushing procedure. Replace
the cooler if the flow is still insufficient.
12. Remove the discharge hose. 13. Reconnect the cooler return pipe to the transmission. 14.
Refill the unit to the proper fluid level.
A/T Fluid/Filter Changing (Install)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the oil level indicator.
2. Remove the nut or bolt that retains the fill tube to the mounting bracket. 3. Raise and suitably
support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 4. Place a drain pan under the transmission.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1717
5. Loosen the filler tube from the transmission. 6. Remove the filler tube seal. 7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Pull the tube out of the vehicle from the top.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the filler tube through the top of the vehicle. 2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 3. Install the filler tube seal into the transmission. Lubricate the seal with
DEXRON(R) IIE, or DEXRON(R) III. 4. Install the filler tube into the transmission. 5. Lower the
vehicle.
6. Install the nut that retains the tube to the mounting bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1718
7. Install the oil level indicator. 8. Adjust the oil level.
A/T Fluid/Filter Changing (F/F Changing)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Place A drain . pan under the
transmission Oil Pan. 3. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and the sides only. 4. Loosen the
rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns. 5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry in order
to allow the oil to drain.
NOTICE: Pry the oil pan down carefully in order to prevent damage to the transmission case or the
Oil Pan sealing surfaces.
6. Inspect the oil color. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure. 7. Remove the remaining
oil pan bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1719
9. Remove the oil pan gasket.
10. Remove the oil filter. 11. Remove the oil filter O-ring seal. 12. Inspect the O-ring seal. The
O-ring seal may be stuck in the case. 13. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Clean the
transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and allow to air dry.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 36850 TRANSJEL(R) Transmission Assembly Lubricant
NOTICE: Use TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent during assembly in order to retain checkballs
or to lubricate components. Greases other than the recommended assembly lube will change the
transmission fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.
1. Coat the seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent. 2. Install a new seal into the case. 3.
Install a new filter into the case.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1720
4. Install a new oil pan gasket.
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Install the oil pan bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
7. Inspect the oil pan bolts and the washers. 8. Use adhesive and sealant compound GM P/N
12345382, or equivalent. 9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 11. Adjust the cold oil level
reading for the initial fill. Do not overfill. 12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1721
Fluid Filter - A/T: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Oil Filter and Seal Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Drain the transmission oil.
Refer to A/T Fluid/Filter Changing. 3. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and the oil pan. 4.
Remove the gasket. 5. Remove the oil filter assembly.
6. Remove the filter neck seal from the transmission case. Use a small screwdriver. Do not to score
the case during removal. Discard the filter seal, it
is not reusable.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1722
1. Install the new oil filter neck seal. Tap gently and evenly on the seal in order to prevent damage
to the case bore or the seal.
2. Install the new oil filter. 3. Install the oil pan gasket and the oil pan. Use a new gasket if the
sealing rings are damaged. 4. Install the oil pan attaching bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 7. Inspect
the oil pan gasket for leaks.
A/T Fluid/Filter Changing
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Place a drain pan under the
transmission oil pan. 3. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and the sides only. 4. Loosen the
rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns.
NOTICE: Pry the oil pan down carefully in order to prevent damage to the transmission case or the
oil pan sealing surfaces.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1723
5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry in order to allow the oil to drain. 6. Inspect the
oil color. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure (Diagnosis). 7. Remove the remaining oil
pan bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan.
9. Remove the oil pan gasket.
10. Remove the oil filter. 11. Remove the oil filter O-ring seal. 12. Inspect the O-ring seal. The
O-ring seal may be stuck in the case. 13. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Clean the
transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and allow to air dry.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 36850 TRANSJEL(R) Transmission Assembly Lubricant
NOTICE: Use TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent during assembly in order to retain checkballs
or to lubricate components. Greases other than the recommended assembly lube will change the
transmission fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1724
1. Coat the seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent. 2. Install a new seal into the case. 3.
Install a new filter into the case.
4. Install a new oil pan gasket.
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Install the oil pan bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 1725
7. Inspect the oil pan bolts and the washers. 8. Use adhesive and sealant compound GM P/N
12345382, or equivalent. 9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 11. Adjust the cold oil level
reading for the initial fill. Do not overfill. 12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information >
Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Procedure
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank pressure (do not tighten at this time). 2.
Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Start
and run the engine until the fuel supply remaining in the fuel pipes is consumed. Engage the starter
for 3.0 seconds in order to assure relief of
any remaining pressure.
6. Raise the vehicle. 7. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9.
Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Pump Pickup Filter > Component Information > Description
and Operation
Fuel Pump Pickup Filter: Description and Operation
A woven plastic strainer is located on the lower end of the fuel sender. This filter prevents dirt from
entering the fuel line and also stops water unless the filter becomes completely submerged in
water. This filter is self cleaning and normally requires no maintenance. Fuel stoppage at this point
indicates that the fuel tank contains an abnormal amount of sediment or water. Therefore, should
this occur, the fuel tank should be removed and thoroughly cleaned and the tank filter replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Pump Pickup Filter > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Page 1733
Fuel Pump Pickup Filter: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Drain the fuel tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. 4. Remove the fuel
sender assembly. 5. Note the strainer (1) position for future reference. 6. Support the reservoir with
one hand and grasp the strainer with the other hand. 7. Use a screwdriver to pry the strainer ferrule
off the reservoir. 8. Discard the strainer.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new strainer (1) to reservoir. 2. Support the reservoir with one hand and grasp the
strainer with the other hand twisting the strainer into position. 3. Install the fuel sender assembly. 4.
Install the fuel tank. 5. Refill tank. 6. Install the negative battery cable. 7. Inspect for fuel leaks
through the following steps:
7.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 7.2. Turn the ignition switch OFF
position for ten seconds. 7.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 7.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
Oil Filter: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-016B
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Information on Internal Engine Noise or Damage After Oil Filter Replacement
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being updated to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 07-06-01-016A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important Engine damage that is the result of an incorrect or improperly installed engine oil filter is
not a warrantable claim. The best way to avoid oil filter quality concerns is to purchase ACDelco(R)
oil filters directly from GMSPO.
Oil filter misapplication may cause abnormal engine noise or internal damage. Always utilize the
most recent parts information to ensure the correct part number filter is installed when replacing oil
filters. Do not rely on physical dimensions alone. Counterfeit copies of name brand parts have been
discovered in some aftermarket parts systems. Always ensure the parts you install are from a
trusted source. Improper oil filter installation may result in catastrophic engine damage.
Refer to the appropriate Service Information (SI) installation instructions when replacing any oil
filter and pay particular attention to procedures for proper cartridge filter element alignment. If the
diagnostics in SI (Engine Mechanical) lead to the oil filter as the cause of the internal engine noise
or damage, dealers should submit a field product report. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-00-89-002I (Information for Dealers on How to Submit a Field Product Report).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1738
Oil Filter: Specifications
Oil Filter ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1739
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1740
Oil Filter: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and suitable support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting
and Jacking the Vehicle. 3. Remove the oil pan bolt.
4. Remove the oil filter.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the oil filter.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the oil pan drain bolt.
^ Tighten the oil pan drain bolt to 26 Nm (19 ft. lbs.).
Lower the vehicle.
3. Fill the engine with oil to the appropriate mark. 4. Install negative battery cable. 5. Start engine
and inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Heater Hose: > 99-01-38-003 > Sep > 99 > Engine/Transmission - Whine at 2800-3200
RPM
Heater Hose: Customer Interest Engine/Transmission - Whine at 2800-3200 RPM
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-003
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine/Transmission Whine at 2800-3200 RPM (Replace Heater Inlet Hose)
Models: 1997-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO
LN2)
Condition Some customers may comment on a whine from the engine/transmission at 2800-3200
RPM.
Cause The production released heater inlet hose has an internal coolant flow restrictor. The flow of
the coolant through the restrictor may induce a whine/whistle. In some cases the flow restrictor may
migrate and come in contact with the heater core inlet tube. If the restrictor comes in contact with
the heater core inlet pipe the whine may become audible within the passenger compartment of the
vehicle.
Correction Replace the heater inlet hose (P/N 22615693). Use the procedure found in the HVAC
section of the Service Manual. The new part has a stainless steel clamp over the hose under the
insulator where the flow restrictor is positioned. If the clamp is missing on the hose, do not use. All
parts currently in GMSPO stock are of the new style.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22615693 Hose, Heater Inlet
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
D2774 Hose, Heater Rear Inlet 0.9 hr
(With Air Conditioning)
- Replace
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Heater Hose: > 99-01-38-003 > Sep > 99 > Engine/Transmission - Whine at
2800-3200 RPM
Heater Hose: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine/Transmission - Whine at 2800-3200 RPM
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-003
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine/Transmission Whine at 2800-3200 RPM (Replace Heater Inlet Hose)
Models: 1997-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO
LN2)
Condition Some customers may comment on a whine from the engine/transmission at 2800-3200
RPM.
Cause The production released heater inlet hose has an internal coolant flow restrictor. The flow of
the coolant through the restrictor may induce a whine/whistle. In some cases the flow restrictor may
migrate and come in contact with the heater core inlet tube. If the restrictor comes in contact with
the heater core inlet pipe the whine may become audible within the passenger compartment of the
vehicle.
Correction Replace the heater inlet hose (P/N 22615693). Use the procedure found in the HVAC
section of the Service Manual. The new part has a stainless steel clamp over the hose under the
insulator where the flow restrictor is positioned. If the clamp is missing on the hose, do not use. All
parts currently in GMSPO stock are of the new style.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22615693 Hose, Heater Inlet
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
D2774 Hose, Heater Rear Inlet 0.9 hr
(With Air Conditioning)
- Replace
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1755
Heater Hose: Specifications Heater Hose and Pipe Torque Specifications
Heater Hose and Pipe Torque Specifications
Heater Outlet Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Outlet Pipe Nut 18 ft.lb
Heater Pipe Assembly to Engine Bolt and Nut 18 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1756
Heater Hose: Locations
Heater Pipes
The heater hoses are attached to the heater core at the front of dash and to the inlet and outlet
pipes at the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1757
Heater Hose: Description and Operation
The heater hoses and pipes carry engine coolant from the engine to the heater core.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Instructions
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Preliminary Instructions
Heater Hoses
Heater Pipes
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Make sure conduit and heat sleeving are in the same location as the original when replacing a
hose. when servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE
RETAINER IS RECOMMENDED. Refer to Quick Connect Retainer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Instructions > Page 1760
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Hoses
Heater Hoses
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain engine coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling in Engine Cooling. 2. Heater hoses from
heater pipes. 3. Heater hoses from heater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater hoses to heater core. 2. Heater hoses to heater pipes. 3. Drain engine coolant. Refer to
Draining and Refilling in Engine Cooling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Instructions > Page 1761
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Pipe Assembly
Heater Pipes
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling in Engine Cooling. 2. Heater core to pipe hoses
from beater pipe assembly. 3. Heater pipe hose at coolant outlet on engine. 4. Heater pipe hose at
coolant inlet on engine. 5. Bolt and nuts retaining pipe to engine. 6. Heater pipe assembly.
Install or Connect
1. Heater pipe assembly. 2. Bolt and nuts retaining pipe to engine.
Tighten ^
Bolt and nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
3. Heater pipe hose to coolant inlet on engine. 4. Heater pipe hose to coolant outlet on engine. 5.
Heater core to pipe hoses to heater pipe assembly. 6. Refill coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling
in Engine Cooling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Hose/Line HVAC: > 04-01-38-014A > Mar > 06 > A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When
Compressor Engaged
Hose/Line HVAC: Customer Interest A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When Compressor Engaged
Bulletin No.: 04-01-38-014A
Date: March 17, 2006
ADVANCE SERVICE INFORMATION RESOLUTION
Subject: High-Pitched Tone Heard Inside Vehicle When A/C Compressor Is Engaged (Replace
Compressor Discharge Hose Assembly)
Models: 2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade EXT 2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban,
Tahoe 2003-2006 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL
1500 Series Vehicles Only with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (RPOs LM7, LQ4, LQ9, LR4 and L59)
and Front Only Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2 and CJ3) and a Short Condenser
2005-2006 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV 2005-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe 2005-2006
GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
1500 Series Vehicles Only, Built in February 2005 or Later, with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (RPOs
LM7, LQ4, LQ9, LR4 and L59) and Front and Rear Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2, CJ3 and C69) and
a Short Condenser
Attention:
Parts are released for 1500 series vehicles with front only air conditioning and certain utilities with
front and rear air conditioning. The length of the condenser on the utilities must be measured
before ordering a new part. Only utilities with a short condenser have a new part released for them.
Utility vehicles that are within the model year ranges above but have a long condenser are not
covered by this bulletin.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to provide the correction information for Advanced Service Information
Bulletin Number 04-01-38-014. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-01-38-014 (Section
01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a high-pitched tone that is heard inside the vehicle when the Air
Conditioning (A/C) compressor is engaged.
Cause
This condition may be caused by refrigerant pulsations within the A/C system. The noise occurs
between 800 and 1000 RPM and is often called an "Off-Idle" noise. This noise is detectable only
when the A/C is on.
Correction
Technicians are to verify that the customer concern is heard when the A/C is on and that it goes
away when the A/C is turned off. Verify that the noise is heard at low engine RPMs only, typically
between 800 and 1000 RPM. The noise is not measurable above 1200 RPM or below 700 RPM. If
the customer concern is present, then technicians are to perform the normal diagnostic procedures
for an A/C system concern. The ACR2000 should be used to check the A/C system performance,
charge level and discharge temperatures. This will eliminate the possibility that another condition is
contributing to this customer concern. If the A/C system is performing properly and all other
possible sources of the noise are eliminated, then replace the A/C compressor discharge hose
assembly. Use the proper part number hose as described in the parts information box below. Use a
new hex head bolt, P/N 11515757, to attach the new hose to the A/C compressor discharge port.
Verify that the noise has been eliminated and that the A/C system operates normally.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Hose/Line HVAC: > 04-01-38-014A > Mar > 06 > A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When
Compressor Engaged > Page 1770
Parts Information
Important:
Some of the utility vehicles listed in this bulletin were built with two different length condensers. All
the pickups and utilities with front only air conditioning will have short condenser, but the utilities
with rear air conditioning were built with both short and long condensers. This changeover occurred
in February 2005. The short condenser is 762 mm (30.0 in) long. The long condenser is 914 mm
(36.0 in) long. Be sure to measure the length of the condenser before ordering any parts when
working on a utility with rear A/C.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hose/Line HVAC: > 04-01-38-014A > Mar > 06 > A/C - High Pitched Noise
Heard When Compressor Engaged
Hose/Line HVAC: All Technical Service Bulletins A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When
Compressor Engaged
Bulletin No.: 04-01-38-014A
Date: March 17, 2006
ADVANCE SERVICE INFORMATION RESOLUTION
Subject: High-Pitched Tone Heard Inside Vehicle When A/C Compressor Is Engaged (Replace
Compressor Discharge Hose Assembly)
Models: 2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade EXT 2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban,
Tahoe 2003-2006 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL
1500 Series Vehicles Only with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (RPOs LM7, LQ4, LQ9, LR4 and L59)
and Front Only Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2 and CJ3) and a Short Condenser
2005-2006 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV 2005-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe 2005-2006
GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
1500 Series Vehicles Only, Built in February 2005 or Later, with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (RPOs
LM7, LQ4, LQ9, LR4 and L59) and Front and Rear Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2, CJ3 and C69) and
a Short Condenser
Attention:
Parts are released for 1500 series vehicles with front only air conditioning and certain utilities with
front and rear air conditioning. The length of the condenser on the utilities must be measured
before ordering a new part. Only utilities with a short condenser have a new part released for them.
Utility vehicles that are within the model year ranges above but have a long condenser are not
covered by this bulletin.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to provide the correction information for Advanced Service Information
Bulletin Number 04-01-38-014. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-01-38-014 (Section
01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a high-pitched tone that is heard inside the vehicle when the Air
Conditioning (A/C) compressor is engaged.
Cause
This condition may be caused by refrigerant pulsations within the A/C system. The noise occurs
between 800 and 1000 RPM and is often called an "Off-Idle" noise. This noise is detectable only
when the A/C is on.
Correction
Technicians are to verify that the customer concern is heard when the A/C is on and that it goes
away when the A/C is turned off. Verify that the noise is heard at low engine RPMs only, typically
between 800 and 1000 RPM. The noise is not measurable above 1200 RPM or below 700 RPM. If
the customer concern is present, then technicians are to perform the normal diagnostic procedures
for an A/C system concern. The ACR2000 should be used to check the A/C system performance,
charge level and discharge temperatures. This will eliminate the possibility that another condition is
contributing to this customer concern. If the A/C system is performing properly and all other
possible sources of the noise are eliminated, then replace the A/C compressor discharge hose
assembly. Use the proper part number hose as described in the parts information box below. Use a
new hex head bolt, P/N 11515757, to attach the new hose to the A/C compressor discharge port.
Verify that the noise has been eliminated and that the A/C system operates normally.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hose/Line HVAC: > 04-01-38-014A > Mar > 06 > A/C - High Pitched Noise
Heard When Compressor Engaged > Page 1776
Parts Information
Important:
Some of the utility vehicles listed in this bulletin were built with two different length condensers. All
the pickups and utilities with front only air conditioning will have short condenser, but the utilities
with rear air conditioning were built with both short and long condensers. This changeover occurred
in February 2005. The short condenser is 762 mm (30.0 in) long. The long condenser is 914 mm
(36.0 in) long. Be sure to measure the length of the condenser before ordering any parts when
working on a utility with rear A/C.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1777
Hose/Line HVAC: Specifications
A/C Accumulator Inlet Fitting 18 ft.lb
A/C Accumulator Outlet Fitting 18 ft.lb
A/C Accumulator Tube to Evaporator 18 ft.lb
A/C Compressor and Condenser Hose Bolt to Rear of Compressor 24 ft.lb
A/C Condenser Inlet From Evaporator Fitting Nut 12 ft.lb
A/C Condenser Outlet Fitting Nut 12 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations > A/C
Accumulator Tube
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations > A/C
Accumulator Tube > Page 1780
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations > A/C
Accumulator Tube > Page 1781
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator)
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator)
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil,
Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 2. Tube at accumulator and discard O-ring seal.
3. Raise vehicle. Refer to Lifting in General Information. 4. TUBE at evaporator and discard O-ring
seals. 5. Lower vehicle, remove tube.
Install or Connect
1. Set tube in place. Raise vehicle. 2. TUBE at evaporator using new O-ring seals.
Tighten ^
Fitting to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
3. Lower vehicle. 4. Tube at accumulator using a new O-ring seal.
Tighten ^
Fitting to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
5. Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging,
Adding Oil, Evacuating and Charging the
Refrigerant System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator) > Page 1784
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Compressor/Condenser Hose
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil,
Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 2. Switch connection on discharge line. 3. Cruise
control module (if equipped). 4. Suction line (accumulator to compressor) at accumulator. 5. Upper
closeout panel. 6. Connection at the condenser. 7. Raise vehicle. 8. Block fitting at the rear head of
the compressor. 9. Compressor/condenser hose assembly.
Important ^
Remove and discard all used O-ring seals and sealing washers.
Install or Connect
1. Compressor/condenser hose assembly. 2. Block fitting to reai head of compressor using new
sealing washers. Refer to Sealing Washer Installation Procedures.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).
3. Lower vehicle. 4. Suction line at the accumulator using a new O-ring seal.
Tighten ^
Nut to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
5. Connection at the condenser using new O-ring seal.
Tighten ^
Nut to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator) > Page 1785
6. Switch connection on discharge line. 7. Cruise control module. 8. Upper closeout panel. 9.
Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging,
Adding Oil, Evacuating and Charging the
Refrigerant System.
10. Check system operation and leak test.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator) > Page 1786
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Evaporator Tube (Evaporator to Condenser)
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil,
Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 2. Upper closeout panel. 3. Connection from the
condenser and discard the O-ring seal. 4. Tube from retaining clip on the body side rail. 5. Raise
vehicle. Refer to Lifting in General Information. 6. Tube from the evaporator and discard the O-ring
seals. 7. Lower the vehicle and remove the evaporator tube.
Install or Connect
1. Set evaporator tube in place. 2. Raise vehicle. 3. Tube to evaporator using new O-ring seals.
Tighten ^
Fitting to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
4. Lower vehicle. 5. Tube to retaining clip on the body side rail. 6. Connection at condenser using
new O-ring seals.
Tighten ^
Nut to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
7. Upper closeout panel. 8. Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and
Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil, Evacuating and Charging the
Refrigerant System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information >
Specifications
Power Steering Line/Hose: Specifications
Power Steering Inlet Line Fittings
...........................................................................................................................................................
27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) Power Steering Outlet Hose Assembly Fittings
....................................................................................................................................... 27 N.m (20 ft.
lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Hose
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Inlet Hose
Power Steering Restrictor Valve And Hose Routing
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Hose > Page 1792
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Position rags under pump to absorb oil. 2. Siphon fluid from reservoir.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Hose > Page 1793
3. Gear inlet hose from pump. 4. Raise vehicle. 5. Gear inlet hose from steering gear.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Route new gear inlet hose to steering gear. 2. Gear inlet hose to steering gear. 3. Lower vehicle.
4. Install gear inlet hose to pump.
Tighten ^
Gear inlet hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
5. Fill and bleed power steering system.
^ Bleed air from system. Refer to BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Hose > Page 1794
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Outlet Hose
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Position rags under pump to absorb oil. 2. Siphon fluid from reservoir. 3. Gear outlet hose from
pump after sliding spring clamp back. 4. Line retainer (if applicable). 5. Gear inlet hose assembly
from rack and pinion steering gear. 6. Gear outlet hose assembly from rack and pinion steering
gear. 7. Gear outlet pipe and/or hose from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gear outlet hose assembly into position on vehicle. 2. Gear outlet hose assembly to rack and
pinion steering gear.
Tighten ^
Outlet hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Gear inlet hose assembly to rack and pinion steering gear.
Tighten ^
Hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
4. Line retainer (if applicable). 5. Gear outlet hose to pump and hose clamp.
Important: Fill with fluid and bleed air from power steering system. Refer to BLEEDING THE
POWER STEERING SYSTEM.
Inspect ^
For leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Radiator Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Cooling - Upper Radiator Hose Replacement
Radiator Hose: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling - Upper Radiator Hose Replacement
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-015
Date: October, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Upper Radiator Hose Replacement
Models: 1998-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L, L-4 Engine (VIN 4 RPO LN2)
When replacing the upper radiator hose, be sure to install protective conduit, P/N 22618378.
Position the conduit to protect the hose from contact (2) with the battery tray (1), 21 mm (8 1⁄4 in)
with the seam of the conduit facing away from the battery tray.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22618378 Conduit
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Radiator Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet)
Radiator Hose: Service and Repair Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL (R) coolant. It silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the coolant to a level below the hose being
removed. Recover the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the
radiator inlet hose and the clamps from the radiator and the coolant outlet.
4. Disconnect the radiator outlet hose and the clamps from the following places:
^ The radiator
^ The coolant pump
^ The radiator surge tank
5. Remove the radiator outlet hose.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Make sure the reference marks on the hoses and the radiator are lined up. A twist on the
hose would place strain on the radiator fitting which could cause the fitting to crack or break.
1. Install the radiator outlet hose and the clamps to the following places:
^ The radiator
^ The coolant pump
^ The radiator surge tank
2. Install the radiator inlet hose and the clamp to the radiator and the coolant outlet.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Radiator Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 1801
3. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
4. Refill the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 5. Start the engine. After the
engine reaches normal operating temperature, inspect for coolant leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Radiator Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 1802
Radiator Hose: Service and Repair Radiator Hose Replacement (Outlet)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL (R) coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the coolant to a level below the hose that is
being removed. Recover the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System.
3. Remove the radiator inlet hose (3) and the clamps (2) from the radiator and the coolant outlet
(1).
4. Disconnect the radiator outlet hose (1) and the clamps (2) from the following places:
^ The radiator
^ The radiator outlet pipe (3)
^ The radiator surge tank
5. Remove the radiator outlet hose.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Make sure the reference marks on the hoses and the radiator are lined up. A twist on the
hose would place strain on the radiator fitting which could cause the fitting to crack or break.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Radiator Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 1803
1. Install the radiator outlet hose (3) and the clamps (2) to the following places:
^ The radiator
^ The radiator outlet pipe (3)
^ The radiator surge tank
2. Install the radiator inlet hose (3) and the clamps (2) to the coolant outlet (1) and the radiator.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
4. Refill the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 5. Start the engine. After the
engine reaches normal operating temperature, inspect for coolant leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Radiator Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 1804
Radiator Hose: Service and Repair Radiator Pipe Replacement - Outlet
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL (R) coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the coolant. Recover the coolant. Refer to
Draining and Filling Cooling System.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. 4. Remove the cover to the outlet pipe bolt through
the exhaust manifold runners. 5. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
6. Disconnect the radiator outlet hose (1) from the radiator outlet pipe (3).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Radiator Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 1805
7. Remove the radiator outlet pipe (1) to the oil pan (2) bolt (3).
8. Remove the cover to the outlet pipe bolt. 9. Remove the thermostat (2).
10. Clean the mating surfaces of the radiator outlet pipe and the coolant pump cover.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the thermostat (2).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the cover to the outlet pipe bolt
^ Tighten the bolt to 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Radiator Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 1806
3. Install the radiator outlet pipe (1) to oil pan (2).
^ Tighten the outlet pipe to oil pan bolt to 26 Nm (19 ft. lbs.).
4. Connect the radiator hose (1) to the outlet pipe (3). 5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Install the cover to the outlet pipe bolt through the exhaust manifold runners. 7. Install the
manifold heat shield. 8. Fill the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 9.
Connect the negative battery cable.
10. Inspect for leaks. 11. Start the engine. After the engine reaches normal operating temperature,
inspect for coolant leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
Brake Fluid: Technical Service Bulletins Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-22-004
Date: May, 2000
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Fluid Level and Filling Recommendations
Models: 2001 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Many dealers and after-market repair shops advertise multi-point fluid "top-ups" in conjunction with
oil changes or regular maintenance packages. These offers often include adding brake fluid to the
master cylinder reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the brake
reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid level goes down an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When the linings are replaced, the fluid will return to it's original level.
The second possible reason for a low fluid level is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If
fluid is leaking, the brake system requires repair and adding additional fluid will not correct the leak.
If the system was properly filled during delivery of the vehicle, no additional fluid should be required
under most circumstances between brake pad and/or shoe replacements. This information can be
reinforced with the customer by referring them to the Brake Fluid section of their vehicle's Owner's
Manual.
Guidelines
GM vehicles have incorporated a variety of brake fluid reservoir styles. The following guidelines are
restricted to the plastic bodied fluid reservoirs and do not affect the original service
recommendations for the older style metal bodied units.
You may encounter both black plastic and translucent style reservoirs. You may have reservoirs
with:
^ A MAX fill mark only
^ A MIN fill mark only
^ Both MAX and MIN marks
The translucent style reservoirs do not have to have the covers removed in order to view the fluid
level. It is a good practice not to remove the reservoir cover unless necessary to reduce the
possibility of contaminating the system. Use the following guidelines to assist in determining the
proper fluid level.
Important:
When adding brake fluid, use Delco Supreme II(R) Brake Fluid, GM P/N 12377967 or equivalent
brand bearing the DOT-3 rating only.
Important:
At no time should the fluid level be allowed to remain in an overfilled condition. Overfilling the brake
reservoir may put unnecessary stress on the seals and cover of the reservoir. Use the following
guidelines to properly maintain the fluid level. If the reservoir is overfilled, siphon out the additional
fluid to comply with the guidelines below.
Important:
If under any circumstance the brake fluid level is extremely low in the reservoir or the BRAKE
warning indicator is illuminated, the brake system should be checked for leaks and the system
repaired in addition to bringing the fluid level up to the recommended guidelines outlined below. A
leaking brake system will have reduced braking performance and will eventually not work at all.
Important:
Some vehicles have reservoirs that are very sensitive to brake fluid levels and may cause the
BRAKE indicator to flicker on turns as the fluid approaches the minimum required level. If you
encounter a vehicle with this concern, increase the fluid level staying within the guidelines outlined
below.
^ If the reservoir has a MAX level indicator, the reservoir should be returned to the MAX marking
only at the time new brake pads and/or shoes are installed. If the reservoir fluid level is at the
half-way point or above do not attempt to add additional brake fluid during routine fluid checks.
^ If the reservoir has both MAX and MIN indicators, the fluid level should be maintained above the
MIN indicator during routine fluid checks and returned to the MAX indication only after new brake
pads and/or shoes are installed.
^ For reservoirs with only a MIN indication, the fluid level should be maintained above the MIN
indicator during routine fluid checks. Return the
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations > Page 1812
reservoir fluid level to full only after installing new brake pads and/or shoes. A full reservoir is
indicated on translucent, snap cover reservoirs by a fluid level even with the top level of the view
window imprinted into the side of the reservoir. On screw top models in black or translucent plastic,
the full level is just below the bottom of the filler neck.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
12377967 Brake Fluid
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Page 1813
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Brake System DOT 3
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Service Precautions >
Brake Fluid
Brake Fluid: Service Precautions Brake Fluid
CAUTION: Brake fluid may Irritate eyes and skin. In case of contact, take the following actions:
^ Eye contact-rinse thoroughly with water.
^ Skin contact-wash with soap and water.
^ If Ingested-consult a physician Immediately.
NOTICE: Brake fluid is extremely damaging to paint. If fluid should accidentally touch a painted
surface, immediately wipe fluid from paint and clean the painted surface.
Use Delco Supreme II Brake Fluid or an equivalent DOT-3 motor vehicle brake fluid. DOT-5
silicone fluid is not recommended for use in the vehicle's base brake system. DO NOT use DOT-5
brake fluid in the antilock brake system.
Always store the brake fluid in a closed container. Reseal brake fluid containers immediately after
use.
Brake fluid that is left in an open or improperly sealed container will absorb moisture. This may
lower the fluid's boiling point and may result in system contamination, corrosion or deterioration of
the rubber components.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Service Precautions >
Brake Fluid > Page 1816
Brake Fluid: Service Precautions Substandard Brake Fluid
NOTICE: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Do not use any fluid from a
container which is wet with water. Do not use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. Improper brake fluid,
mineral oil or water in the fluid may cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components to
deteriorate. Keep all fluid containers capped to prevent contamination.
IMPORTANT: Improper brake fluid such as, mineral oil or water in the fluid, may cause the brake
fluid to boil or the rubber components in the hydraulic system to deteriorate.
Upon inspection, if the primary piston cups are swollen, then rubber parts have deteriorated. This
deterioration may also be evidenced by the swollen wheel cylinder piston cups on the drum brake
wheel cylinders or the master cylinder cover diaphragm.
If deterioration of rubber parts is evident disassemble all hydraulic parts and was with alcohol. Dry
these parts with unlubricated compressed air before assembly to keep alcohol out of the system.
Replace all rubber parts when in the system, including hoses. Also, when working on the brake
mechanisms, check for fluid on the brake linings. If any fluid is found, replace the linings.
If the master cylinder piston seals are satisfactory, check for leakage or excessive heat conditions.
If excessive heat conditions are not found, drain the fluid. Flush, the system with brake fluid. Refill
and bleed the system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Clutch Fluid > Component Information > Specifications
Clutch Fluid: Specifications
Hydraulic Clutch Fluid (GM P/N 12345347 or equivalent).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Clutch Fluid > Component Information > Specifications > Page
1820
Clutch Fluid: Service and Repair
NOTICE: Do not reuse the fluid that has been bled from a system in order to fill the clutch master
cylinder reservoir for the following reasons:
1. The fluid may be aerated 2. The fluid may be contaminated 3. The fluid may contain too much
moisture
IMPORTANT: Maintain the fluid level in the clutch reservoir to the top step with GM P/N 12345347,
or equivalent.
1. Clean dirt and grease from the cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the
system. 2. Attach a hose to the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator assembly. Submerge the
other end of the hose in a container of Hydraulic Clutch Fluid
GM P/N 12345347, or equivalent.
3. Depress the clutch pedal slowly and hold. 4. Loosen the bleeder screw to purge air. 5. ^
Tighten the bleeder screw to 2 Nm (18 inch lbs.)
6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 until air is purged. 7. Fill reservoir to the top step with GM P/N
12345347, or equivalent. 8. Repeat the bleeding procedure if there is a grinding noise during the
clutch spin down procedure. Refer to Clutch Spin Down Time. See:
Transmission and Drivetrain/Clutch/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-002B
Date: January 18, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: DEX-COOL(R) Coolant - New Leak Detection Dye J 46366 - Replaces J 29545-6
Models: 1996-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light/Medium Duty Trucks* (including Saturn)
1997-2008 Isuzu T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models Built in Janesville and Flint 1999-2008
Isuzu N-Series Medium Duty Commercial Models with 5.7L or 6.0L Gas Engine
2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008 HUMMER H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
*EXCLUDING 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo, Epica, Optra, Vivant and Pontiac Matiz, Wave
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-002A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Leak detection dye P/N 12378563 (J 29545-6) (in Canada P/N 88900915) may cause
DEX-COOL(R) coolant to appear green in a black vessel making it appear to be conventional
(green) coolant. This may cause a technician to add conventional coolant to a low DEX-COOL(R)
system thus contaminating it. The green DEX-COOL(R) appearance is caused by the color of the
leak detection dye which alters the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
A new leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (J 46366) (in Canada P/N 89022220) has been released
that does not alter the appearance of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant. When adding the new leak
detection dye the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant will not change. For detecting leaks on any
system that uses DEX-COOL(R) leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (in Canada P/N 89022220)
should be used. The new leak detection dye can be used with both conventional and
DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 1825
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - Coolant Recycling Information
Bulletin No.: 00-06-02-006D
Date: August 15, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Engine Coolant Recycling and Warranty Information
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER Vehicles 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
Please address this bulletin to the Warranty Claims Administrator and the Service Manager.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to adjust the title and Include Warranty Information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Coolant Reimbursement Policy
General Motors supports the use of recycled engine coolant for warranty repairs/service, providing
a GM approved engine coolant recycling system is used. Recycled coolant will be reimbursed at
the GMSPO dealer price for new coolant plus the appropriate mark-up. When coolant replacement
is required during a warranty repair, it is crucial that only the relative amount of engine coolant
concentrate be charged, not the total diluted volume. In other words: if you are using two gallons of
pre-diluted (50:50) recycled engine coolant to service a vehicle, you may request reimbursement
for one gallon of GM Goodwrench engine coolant concentrate at the dealer price plus the
appropriate warranty parts handling allowance.
Licensed Approved DEX-COOL(R) Providers
Important:
USE OF NON-APPROVED VIRGIN OR RECYCLED DEX-COOL(R) OR DEVIATIONS IN THE
FORM OF ALTERNATE CHEMICALS OR ALTERATION OF EQUIPMENT, WILL VOID THE GM
ENDORSEMENT, MAY DEGRADE COOLANT SYSTEM INTEGRITY AND PLACE THE
COOLING SYSTEM WARRANTY UNDER JEOPARDY.
Shown in Table 1 are the only current licensed and approved providers of DEX-COOL(R). Products
that are advertised as "COMPATIBLE" or "RECOMMENDED" for use with DEX-COOL(R) have not
been tested or approved by General Motors. Non-approved coolants may degrade the
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 1826
coolant system integrity and will no longer be considered a 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant.
Coolant Removal Services/Recycling
The tables include all coolant recycling processes currently approved by GM. Also included is a
primary phone number and demographic information. Used DEX-COOL(R) can be combined with
used conventional coolant (green) for recycling. Depending on the recycling service and/or
equipment, it is then designated as a conventional 2 yr/30,000 mile (50,000 km) coolant or
DEX-COOL(R) 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant. Recycled coolants as designated in this
bulletin may be used during the vehicle(s) warranty period.
DEX-COOL(R) Recycling
The DEX-COOL(R) recycling service listed in Table 2 has been approved for recycling waste
engine coolants (DEX-COOL) or conventional) to DEX-COOL(R) with 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000
km) usability. Recycling Fluid Technologies is the only licensed provider of Recycled
DEX-COOL(R) meeting GM6277M specifications and utilizes GM approved inhibitor packages.
This is currently a limited program being monitored by GM Service Operations which will be
expanded as demand increases.
Conventional (Green) Recycling
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 1827
Processes shown in the Table 3 are capable of recycling waste engine coolants (DEX-COOL(R) or
conventional) to a conventional (green) coolant. Recycling conventional coolant can be
accomplished at your facility by a technician using approved EQUIPMENT (listed by model number
in Table 3), or by an approved coolant recycling SERVICE which may recycle the coolant at your
facility or at an offsite operation. Refer to the table for GM approved coolant recyclers in either of
these two categories. Should you decide to recycle the coolant yourself, strict adherence to the
operating procedures is imperative. Use ONLY the inhibitor chemicals supplied by the respective
(GM approved) recycling equipment manufacturer.
Sealing Tablets
Cooling System Sealing Tablets (Seal Tabs) should not be used as a regular maintenance item
after servicing an engine cooling system. Discoloration of coolant can occur if too many seal tabs
have been inserted into the cooling system. This can occur if seal tabs are repeatedly used over
the service life of a vehicle. Where appropriate, seal tabs may be used if diagnostics fail to repair a
small leak in the cooling system. When a condition appears in which seal tabs may be
recommended, a specific bulletin will be released describing their proper usage.
Water Quality
The integrity of the coolant is dependent upon the quality of DEX-COOL(R) and water.
DEX-COOL(R) is a product that has enhanced protection capability as well as an extended service
interval. These enhanced properties may be jeopardized by combining DEX-COOL(R) with poor
quality water. If you suspect the water in your area of being poor quality, it is recommended you
use distilled or de-ionized water with DEX-COOL(R).
"Pink" DEX-COOL(R)
DEX-COOL(R) is orange in color to distinguish it from other coolants. Due to inconsistencies in the
mixing of the dyes used with DEX-COOL(R), some batches may appear pink after time. The color
shift from orange to pink does not affect the integrity of the coolant, and still maintains the 5
yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) service interval.
Back Service
Only use DEX-COOL(R) if the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 1828
Contamination
Mixing conventional green coolant with DEX-COOL(R) will degrade the service interval from 5
yrs./150,000 miles (240,000 km) to 2 yrs./30,000 miles (50,000 km) if left in the contaminated
condition. If contamination occurs, the cooling system must be flushed twice immediately and
re-filled with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL(R) and clean water in order to preserve the enhanced
properties and extended service interval of DEX-COOL(R).
After 5 years/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
After 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km), the coolant should be changed, preferably using a coolant
exchanger. If the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R) and has not had problems
with contamination from non-DEX-COOL(R) coolants, then the service interval remains the same,
and the coolant does not need to be changed for another 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
Equipment (Coolant Exchangers)
The preferred method of performing coolant replacement is to use a coolant exchanger. A coolant
exchanger can replace virtually all of the old coolant with new coolant. Coolant exchangers can be
used to perform coolant replacement without spillage, and facilitate easy waste collection. They
can also be used to lower the coolant level in a vehicle to allow for less messy servicing of cooling
system components. It is recommended that you use a coolant exchanger with a vacuum feature
facilitates removing trapped air from the cooling system. This is a substantial time savings over
repeatedly thermo cycling the vehicle and topping-off the radiator. The vacuum feature also allows
venting of a hot system to relieve system pressure. Approved coolant exchangers are available
through the GMDE (General Motors Dealer Equipment) program.
For refilling a cooling system that has been partially or fully drained for repairs other than coolant
replacement, the Vac-N-Fill Coolant Refill Tool (GE-47716) is recommended to facilitate removal of
trapped air from the cooling system during refill.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Cooling System Capacity ....................................................................................................................
............................................ 10.0 Liters (10.5 Quarts)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1831
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
ENGINE COOLANT
A 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and use only GM Goodwrench(R)
DEX-COOL(R) or Havoline(R) DEX-COOL(R) (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant, conforming to
GM Specification 6277M.
CAUTIONS: ^
The use of sealing pellets (or similar compounds) in the coolant system is NOT recommended.The
use of sealing pellets may restrict the flow of coolant through the throttle body or other engine
cooling system components.
^ If silicate coolant is added to the cooling system, premature engine, heater core or radiator
corrosion may result. In addition, the coolant will require change SOONER, at 50 000 km (30,000
miles) or 24 months.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1832
Coolant: Description and Operation
COOLANT DESCRIPTION
NOTICE: When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL or
HAVOLINEO DEX-COOL coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOL (R) or HAVOLINE (R)
DEX-COOL (R) is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km
(30,000 mi) or 24 months.
A 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol (DEX-COOL (R) ) and water will provide the follow protection:
NOTICE: Pure coolant can be added to raise the boiling point of the coolant, but too much will
affect the freezing point. Do not use a solution stronger than 70 percent, as the freeze level rises
rapidly after this point. Pure coolant will freeze at-22°C (-8°F).
^ Give freezing protection down to-37°C (-34°F).
^ Give boiling protection up to 129°C (260°F)
^ Help keep the proper engine temperature.
^ Let the warning lights and gauges work correctly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Coolant Concentration Testing
Coolant: Testing and Inspection Coolant Concentration Testing
Coolant testers J26568 Centigrade Scale or J23688 Fahrenheit Scale can be used to verify the
antifreeze protection of the coolant. Verify that the
refractometer markings are correct. Unless J26568 or J23688 has a provision for temperature
correction, test the temperature at which testers are calibrated. IF the coolant is warmer or cooler
the reading may be incorrect. Follow the manufacturer's directions on the tester being used. ^
Before each use, lift up the plastic cover at the slanted end of J26568 or J23688 exposing the
measuring window and the bottom of the plastic cover.
^ Wipe the window with a tissue or a clean soft cloth.
^ Close the plastic cover.
TESTING PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J26568 or J23688 Coolant Tester Do not remove the clear plastic pump from the tester.
1. Release the tip of the pump from the coolant tester housing.
2. Insert the tip of the pump into the surge tank/radiator. The tip of the pump must be below the
level of the coolant. 3. Press the bulb. Release the pump bulb in order to obtain a sample of the
coolant. 4. Bend the tube around the J26568 or the J23688. Insert the tip of the pump into the
cover plate opening. 5. Press the pump bulb. Allow a few drops to fall onto the measuring surface.
Do not open the plastic cover when taking readings because any water
evaporation will change the reading.
6. Point the coolant tester toward any light source. Look into the eyepiece.
6.1. The coolant protection reading is at the point where the dividing line between light and dark
crosses the scale. Antifreeze protection is the scale on the right.
6.2. The temperature scale is reversed from a standard thermometer scale.
6.3. Below zero readings are on the upper half of the scale.
6.4. If the readings are not clear, properly clean and dry the measuring surface. Conduct a new
test. Verify that enough fluid is on the measuring surface.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Coolant Concentration Testing > Page 1835
Coolant: Testing and Inspection Cooling System Leak Testing
SURGE TANK CAP PRESSURE TEST
^ Tools Required J24460-01 Cooling System and Cap Pressure Tester
- J24460-92 Cooling System Tester Adapter
1. Inspect the hose connections for leaks.
2. Inspect the surge tank cap for loss of pressure using the J24460-92 and the J24460-01.If the
surge tank cap does not hold the rated pressure,
replace the surge tank pressure cap.
3. Use the correct pressure cap. Use only a 103 kPa (15 psi) pressure cap.
ON-VEHICLE PRESSURE TESTING PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J24460-01 Cooling System and Cap Pressure Tester
- J24460-92 Cooling System Tester Adapter
1. Inspect the connections of the coolant hoses for leaks. Repair as required. 2. Remove the surge
tank cap.
3. Install J24460-01 to the surge tank. Follow the instructions supplied with the J24460-01. 4. Build
up pressure to no more than 138 kPa (20 psi). 5. The system should hold the pressure for about
two minutes.
^ If a measurable amount of pressure drops within two minutes, test for a leak.
^ If you find a leak, remove the radiator. Replace the radiator. Refer to Radiator Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-037E
Date: April 07, 2011
Subject: Release of DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
Models:
2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008
HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saturn Relay 2005 and Prior Saturn L-Series 2005-2007 Saturn ION
2005-2008 Saturn VUE with 4T45-E 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X Except 2008 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo,
Equinox Except 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Epica Except 2007 and Prior Chevrolet Optra Except
2008 and Prior Pontiac Torrent, Vibe, Wave Except 2003-2005 Saturn ION with CVT or AF23 Only
Except 1991-2002 Saturn S-Series Except 2008 and Prior Saturn VUE with CVT, AF33 or 5AT
(MJ7/MJ8) Transmission Only Except 2008 Saturn Astra
Attention:
DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs
for General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-037D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS / TRANSFER CASES and POWER STEERING
The content of this bulletin does not apply to manual transmissions or transfer cases. Any vehicle
that previously required DEXRON(R)-III for a manual transmission or transfer case should now use
P/N 88861800. This fluid is labeled Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid. Some manual
transmissions and transfer cases require a different fluid. Appropriate references should be
checked when servicing any of these components.
Power Steering Systems should now use P/N 9985010 labeled Power Steering Fluid.
Consult the Parts Catalog, Owner's Manual, or Service Information (SI) for fluid recommendations.
Some of our customers and/or General Motors dealerships/Saturn Retailers may have some
concerns with DEXRON(R)-VI and DEXRON(R)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and
transmission warranty claims. DEXRON(R)-VI is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs for
General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids (except as noted above). Please remember that the clean oil reservoirs of the
J-45096 - Flushing and Flow Tester machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with
DEXRON(R)-VI for testing, flushing or filling General Motors transmissions/transaxles (except as
noted above).
DEXRON(R)-VI can be used in any proportion in past model vehicles equipped with an automatic
transmission/transaxle in place of DEXRON(R)-III (i.e. topping off the fluid in the event of a repair
or fluid change). DEXRON(R)-VI is also compatible with any former version of DEXRON(R) for use
in automatic transmissions/transaxles.
DEXRON(R)-VI ATF
General Motors Powertrain has upgraded to DEXRON(R)-VI ATF with the start of 2006 vehicle
production.
Current and prior automatic transmission models that had used DEXRON(R)-III must now only use
DEXRON(R)-VI.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 1840
All 2006 and future model transmissions that use DEXRON(R)-VI are to be serviced ONLY with
DEXRON(R)-VI fluid.
DEXRON(R)-VI is an improvement over DEXRON(R)-III in the following areas:
* These ATF change intervals remain the same as DEXRON(R)-III for the time being.
2006-2008 Transmission Fill and Cooler Flushing
Some new applications of the 6L80 six speed transmission will require the use of the J 45096 Flushing and Flow Tester to accomplish transmission fluid fill. The clean oil reservoir of the
machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with DEXRON(R)-VI.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 1841
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 1842
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 1843
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Oil Cooler Flushing/Flow Check Procedures
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 99-07-30-017A
Date: February, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Check Procedures
Models: 2003 and Prior GM Light Duty Trucks 2003 HUMMER H2 with Allison(R) Automatic
Transmission (RPO M74)
This bulletin revises bulletin 99-07-30-017 to reflect the release of the new Transflow(R) J 45096
Transmission Cooling System Service Tool. The Transflow(R) Transmission Cooling System
Service Tool is to be used for all vehicles. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-07-30-017
(Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Important:
If you were sent here by the instruction booklet for the J 45096 TransFlow(R) machine, note that
the table has been moved to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications
3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Bottom Pan Removal ...........................................................................................................................
............................................... 3.8 Liters (4.0 Quarts)
Complete Overhaul ..............................................................................................................................
............................................... 6.6 Liters (7.0 Quarts)
Dry .......................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 8.5 Liters (9.0 Quarts)
4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Bottom Pan Removal ...........................................................................................................................
............................................... 7.0 Liters (7.4 Quarts)
Complete Overhaul ..............................................................................................................................
........................................... 10.0 Liters (10.6 Quarts)
New Converter .....................................................................................................................................
............................................... 2.5 Liters (2.6 Quarts)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1846
Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications
DEXRON-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (or equivalent).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1847
Checking Oil Level
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
3T40 Transaxle
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection 3T40 Transaxle
Transmission Fluid Level and Condition Check
Important: When you check the fluid level, the fluid will be higher on the indicator when the
transmission is cold. Conversely, the fluid level will drop when checked at operating temperature.
This is due to the case thermostat element.
1. Start the engine and operate the vehicle for 15 minutes or until the transmission fluid reaches an
operating temperature of 88°-93°C (190°-200°F). 2. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the
parking brake and block the wheels. 3. While the engine is idling and with your foot on the brake,
move the shift lever through each gear range, ending in Park. 4. Check the fluid level, color, and
condition. 5. If you must add fluid, use DEXRON-III Automatic Transmission Fluid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
3T40 Transaxle > Page 1850
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
3T40 Transaxle > Page 1851
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
3T40 Transaxle > Page 1852
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection 4T40-E Transaxle
Transmission Fluid Level and Condition Check (Diagnosis)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
3T40 Transaxle > Page 1853
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
3T40 Transaxle > Page 1854
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Changing Oil and Filter
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Place A drain . pan under the
transmission Oil Pan. 3. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and the sides only. 4. Loosen the
rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns. 5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry in order
to allow the oil to drain.
NOTICE: Pry the oil pan down carefully in order to prevent damage to the transmission case or the
Oil Pan sealing surfaces.
6. Inspect the oil color. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure. 7. Remove the remaining
oil pan bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan.
9. Remove the oil pan gasket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 1857
10. Remove the oil filter. 11. Remove the oil filter O-ring seal. 12. Inspect the O-ring seal. The
O-ring seal may be stuck in the case. 13. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Clean the
transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and allow to air dry.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 36850 TRANSJEL(R) Transmission Assembly Lubricant
NOTICE: Use TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent during assembly in order to retain checkballs
or to lubricate components. Greases other than the recommended assembly lube will change the
transmission fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.
1. Coat the seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent. 2. Install a new seal into the case. 3.
Install a new filter into the case.
4. Install a new oil pan gasket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 1858
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Install the oil pan bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 in. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
7. Inspect the oil pan bolts and the washers. 8. Use adhesive and sealant compound GM P/N
12345382, or equivalent. 9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 11. Adjust the cold oil level
reading for the initial fill. Do not overfill. 12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.
Filler Tube Removal and Installation
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 1859
1. Remove the oil level indicator.
2. Remove the nut or bolt that retains the fill tube to the mounting bracket. 3. Raise and suitably
support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 4. Place a drain pan under the transmission.
5. Loosen the filler tube from the transmission. 6. Remove the filler tube seal. 7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Pull the tube out of the vehicle from the top.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 1860
1. Install the filler tube through the top of the vehicle. 2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 3. Install the filler tube seal into the transmission. Lubricate the seal with
DEXRON(R) IIE, or DEXRON(R) III. 4. Install the filler tube into the transmission. 5. Lower the
vehicle.
6. Install the nut that retains the tube to the mounting bracket.
7. Install the oil level indicator. 8. Adjust the oil level.
Transaxle Fluid Flushing
PREPARATION
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 1861
^ Tools Required J 35944-A Oil Cooler and Line Flusher
- J 35944-20 Cooler Flushing Fluid
Whenever you remove a transmission for service, do a transmission oil cooler flushing. It is
essential to flush the oil cooler under the following conditions: ^
After a major overhaul
^ Suspected contamination
^ Pump or torque converter replacement For complete transmission service, perform the flush
procedure after the overhauled or replacement assembly is installed in the vehicle.
1. Remove the fill cap on the J 35944-A. 2. Fill the can with 0.6 liter (20-21 ounces) of J 35944-20,
or equivalent, cooler flushing fluid. Do not overfill. If you overfill, the tool will need
recharging with air before the backflush.
3. Follow the manufacturer's suggested procedures for proper handling of the solution.
IMPORTANT: Shop air supply must not exceed 825 kPa (120 psi), and must be equipped with a
water/oil filter.
4. Secure the fill cap, and pressurize the flusher can with shop air to 550-700 kPa (80-100 psi). 5.
Connect the J 35944-A to the transmission end of the transmission cooler pipe that feeds the
bottom fitting of the oil cooler. 6. Connect the discharge hose to the top oil cooler pipe. 7. Clip the
discharge hose to the oil drain container. 8. With the water valve on the tool in the OFF position,
connect the water hose from the water supply to the tool. 9. Turn ON the water supply at the
faucet.
INITIAL FLUSHING
IMPORTANT: If water does not flow through the cooler the system is completely plugged. Do not
complete the flushing procedure. Replace the cooler and/or the cooler pipes as required.
1. Switch the water valve on the tool to the ON position. Allow the water to flow through the oil
cooler for 10 seconds in order to remove the
transmission fluid in the system.
2. Switch the water valve on the tool to the OFF position. Clip the discharge hose onto a 5 gallon
pail with a lid. If no lid is available, place a shop
towel over the end of the hose in order to prevent splash. The discharge will foam vigorously when
you introduce solution into the water stream.
3. Switch the water valve on the tool to the ON position. Depress the trigger that mixes the flushing
solution into the water flow. Use the bale clip on
the handle in order to hold down the trigger.
4. Flush the oil cooler with water and solution for 2 minutes. During the flush, attach the air supply
to the air valve on the tool for 3-5 seconds after
every 15-20 second interval in order to create a surging action.
5. Release the trigger. Switch the water valve on the tool to the OFF position. 6. Disconnect both
hoses from the oil cooler pipes.
BACKFLUSH
1. Connect the hoses to the oil cooler pipes in order to perform a backflush. 2. Switch water valve
on the tool to the ON position. Depress the trigger in order to mix the flushing solution with the
water flow. Use the bale clip
on the handle to hold down the trigger.
3. Flush the oil cooler with water and solution for 2 minutes. During this flush, attach the air supply
to the air valve on the tool for 3-5 seconds after
each 15-20 second interval in order to create a surging action.
4. Release the trigger. Allow water only to rinse the oil cooler for 1 minute. 5. Turn the water supply
OFF at the faucet. 6. Attach the air supply to the air valve on the tool. Dry out the system with air
for at least 2 minutes. Dry out the system longer than 2 minutes, if
moisture from the oil cooler line discharge hose is visible.
7. Connect the cooler feed pipe to the transmission. The cooler feed is the bottom connection at
the transmission. 8. If not already connected, attach the discharge hose to the cooler return pipe.
Place the hose into an appropriate drain container. 9. After filling the transmission with
DEXRON(R) III or DEXRON(R) IIE automatic transmission fluid, or equivalent, start the engine.
Run the
engine for 30 seconds. This removes any residual moisture from the oil cooler and the cooler
pipes, protects all the components from corrosion, and checks the flow rate through the cooler.
10. You should get a minimum of 1.9 liters (2 quarts) of transmission fluid during this 30 second
run. If the flow of fluid is insufficient, disconnect
the oil cooler feed line at the radiator and restart the engine.
11. If the flow is insufficient, inspect the transmission for cause. Inspect the cooler pipes and
fittings. Repeat the cooler flushing procedure. Replace
the cooler if the flow is still insufficient.
12. Remove the discharge hose. 13. Reconnect the cooler return pipe to the transmission. 14.
Refill the unit to the proper fluid level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 1862
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Place a drain pan under the
transmission oil pan.
3. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and the sides only. 4. Loosen the rear oil pan bolts
approximately 4 turns.
NOTICE: Pry the oil pan down carefully in order to prevent damage to the transmission case or the
oil pan sealing surfaces.
5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry in order to allow the oil to drain. 6. Inspect the
oil color. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure at Testing and Inspection. See: Testing
and Inspection 7. Remove the remaining oil pan bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan.
9. Remove the oil pan gasket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 1863
10. Remove the oil filter. 11. Remove the oil filter O-ring seal. 12. Inspect the O-ring seal. The
O-ring seal may be stuck in the case. 13. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Clean the
transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and allow to air dry.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 36850 TRANSJEL(R) Transmission Assembly Lubricant
NOTICE: Use TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent during assembly in order to retain checkballs
or to lubricate components. Greases other than the recommended assembly lube will change the
transmission fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.
1. Coat the seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent. 2. Install a new seal into the case. 3.
Install a new filter into the case.
4. Install a new oil pan gasket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 1864
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Install the oil pan bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 in. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
7. Inspect the oil pan bolts and the washers. 8. Use adhesive and sealant compound GM P/N
12345382, or equivalent. 9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 11. Adjust the cold oil level
reading for the initial fill. Do not overfill. 12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications
Manual Transaxle ................................................................................................................................
............................................... 1.9 Liters (2.0 Quarts)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1869
Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications
DEXRON Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1870
Fluid - M/T: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: ^
Inspect the fluid level only when the engine is off. Ensure the vehicle is level. The transaxle must
be cold.
^ The fluid level indicator must be fully seated during vehicle operation or leakage will occur at the
vent plug.
1. Remove the fluid level indicator. 2. Read the fluid level indicator. 3. If the indicator reads ADD or
below, fill the transaxle to FULL with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1871
Fluid - M/T: Service and Repair
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: ^
Inspect the fluid level only when the engine is off. Ensure the vehicle is level. The transaxle must
be cold.
^ The fluid level indicator must be fully seated during vehicle operation or leakage will occur at the
vent plug.
1. Remove the fluid level indicator. 2. Read the fluid level indicator. 3. If the indicator reads ADD or
below, fill the transaxle to FULL with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 11-00-90-001
Date: March 14, 2011
Subject: Global Information for GM dexos1(TM) and GM dexos2(TM) Engine Oil Specifications for
Spark Ignited and Diesel Engines, Available Licensed Brands, and Service Fill for Adding or
Complete Oil Change
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Excluding All Vehicles Equipped with
Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines
GM dexos 1(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 1(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
The dexos(TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos‹›(TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos‹›(TM)
specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
1(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Specification
Important General Motors dexos 1(TM) engine oil specification replaces the previous General
Motors specifications GM6094M, GM4718M and GM-LL-A-025 for most GM gasoline engines. The
oil specified for use in GM passenger cars and trucks, PRIOR to the 2011 model year remains
acceptable for those previous vehicles. However, dexos 1(TM) is backward compatible and can be
used in those older vehicles.
In North America, starting with the 2011 model year, GM introduced dexos 1(TM) certified engine
oil as a factory fill and service fill for gasoline engines. The reasons for the new engine oil
specification are as follows:
- To meet environmental goals such as increasing fuel efficiency and reducing engine emissions.
- To promote long engine life.
- To minimize the number of engine oil changes in order to help meet the goal of lessening the
industry's overall dependence on crude oil.
dexos 1(TM) is a GM-developed engine oil specification that has been designed to provide the
following benefits:
- Further improve fuel economy, to meet future corporate average fuel economy (CAFE)
requirements and fuel economy retention by allowing the oil to maintain its fuel economy benefits
throughout the life of the oil.
- More robust formulations for added engine protection and aeration performance.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 1876
- Support the GM Oil Life System, thereby minimizing the replacement of engine oil, before its life
has been depleted.
- Reduce the duplication of requirements for a large number of internal GM engine oil
specifications.
International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC)
GF-5 Standard
In addition to GM dexos 1(TM), a new International Lubricants Standardization and Approval
Committee (ILSAC) standard called GF-5, was introduced in October 2010.
- There will be a corresponding API category, called: SN Resource Conserving. The current GF-4
standard was put in place in 2004 and will become obsolete in October 2011. Similar to dexos
1(TM), the GF-5 standard will use a new fuel economy test, Sequence VID, which demands a
statistically significant increase in fuel economy versus the Sequence VIB test that was used for
GF-4.
- It is expected that all dexos 1(TM) approved oils will be capable of meeting the GF-5 standard.
However, not all GF-5 engine oils will be capable of meeting the dexos 1(TM) specification.
- Like dexos(TM), the new ILSAC GF-5 standard will call for more sophisticated additives. The API
will begin licensing marketers during October 2010, to produce and distribute GF-5 certified
products, which are expected to include SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils.
Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) Requirements Effect on Fuel Economy
Since CAFE standards were first introduced in 1974, the fuel economy of cars has more than
doubled, while the fuel economy of light trucks has increased by more than 50 percent. Proposed
CAFE standards call for a continuation of increased fuel economy in new cars and trucks. To meet
these future requirements, all aspects of vehicle operation are being looked at more critically than
ever before.
New technology being introduced in GM vehicles designed to increase vehicle efficiency and fuel
economy include direct injection, cam phasing, turbocharging and active fuel management (AFM).
The demands of these new technologies on engine oil also are taken into consideration when
determining new oil specifications. AFM for example can help to achieve improved fuel economy.
However alternately deactivating and activating the cylinders by not allowing the intake and
exhaust valves to open contributes to additional stress on the engine oil.
Another industry trend for meeting tough fuel economy mandates has been a shift toward lower
viscosity oils.
dexos 1(TM) will eventually be offered in several viscosity grades in accordance with engine needs:
SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-30.
Using the right viscosity grade oil is critical for proper engine performance. Always refer to the
Maintenance section of a vehicle Owner Manual for the proper viscosity grade for the engine being
serviced.
GM Oil Life System in Conjunction With dexos (TM) Supports Extended Oil Change Intervals
To help conserve oil while maintaining engine protection, many GM vehicles are equipped with the
GM Oil Life System. This system can provide oil change intervals that exceed the traditional 3,000
mile (4,830 km) recommendation.
The dexos (TM) specification, with its requirements for improved oil robustness, compliments the
GM Oil Life System by supporting extended oil change intervals over the lifetime of a vehicle.
If all GM customers with GM Oil Life System equipped vehicles would use the system as intended,
GM estimates that more than 100 million gallons of oil could be saved annually.
GM dexos 2(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 2(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 1877
The dexos (TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos (TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos
(TM)specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
2(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Specification
- dexos 2(TM) is approved and recommended by GM for use in Europe starting in model year 2010
vehicles, regardless of where the vehicle was manufactured.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European gasoline engines.
Important The Duramax(TM) diesel engine is the exception and requires lubricants meeting
specification CJ-4.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European light-duty diesel engines and
replaces GM-LL-B-025 and GM-LL-A-025.
- dexos 2(TM) protects diesel engines from harmful soot deposits and is designed with limits on
certain chemical components to prolong catalyst life and protect expensive emission reduction
systems. It is a robust oil, resisting degradation between oil changes and maintaining optimum
performance longer.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Oil Capacity Without Filter Change
...........................................................................................................................................................
3.473L (3.5 Qts.)
When Changing the Oil Filter, Up To An Additional 0.473 Liter Or One Half Quart Of Oil May Be
Needed.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1880
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY
All Temperatures .................................................................................................................................
............................................ SAE 5W-30 (Preferred) Above 0°F (-18°C) ............................................
.............................................................................................................................................. SAE
10W-30
Using oils of any viscosity other than those viscosity's recommended could result in engine
damage. When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperatures the vehicle will be operated in
before the next oil change. Then, select the recommended oil viscosity.
The recommended oil viscosity for all vehicles when the temperature is above -18° C (0° F) is SAE
1OW-30.
Engine oil viscosity (thickness) has an effect on the fuel economy and the cold-weather operation
(starting and oil flow). Lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and
cold-weather performance. However, higher temperature weather condition require higher viscosity
engine oils for satisfactory lubrication. When the temperature will be very cold and never above 16°
C (60° F), SAE 5W-30 should be used in all models.
In areas of the world other than North America, it may be difficult to find oils that display the API
STARBURST symbol and that are labeled as meeting the GM4718M Specification.
If you cannot find API STARBURST displaying oils identified as meeting the GM4718M
requirements, look for oils that meet the API Service SJ and ACEA A3-96 requirements.
The recommended SAE engine oil viscosity is 5W-30, however, additional engine oil viscosities
meeting the API Service SJ and ACEA A3-96 requirements may be used in accordance with the
temperature ranges as shown in figure 3.
NOTE: SAE 20W-50 or oils of other viscosity rating or quality designations are NOT recommended
for use in any vehicles at any time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1881
Engine Oil: Service Precautions
Look for and use ONLY the engine oil that meet GM Specification. Oil that does not have the
correct specification designation can cause engine damage not covered by the warranty. Do NOT
use engine oil additives.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1882
Engine Oil: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and suitable support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting
and Jacking the Vehicle. 3. Remove the oil pan bolt.
4. Remove the oil filter.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the oil filter.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the oil pan drain bolt.
^ Tighten the oil pan drain bolt to 26 Nm (19 ft. lbs.).
Lower the vehicle.
3. Fill the engine with oil to the appropriate mark. 4. Install negative battery cable. 5. Start engine
and inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Power Steering Fluid > Component Information > Specifications
Power Steering Fluid: Specifications
GM Power Steering Fluid (GM P/N 1052884 - 1 pint or 1050017 - 1 quart, or equivalent). In cold
climates use (GM P/N 12345866 - one pint, GM P/N 12345867 - one quart, or equivalent).
NOTE: The system should be flushed and bled prior to switching fluid types.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Bulletin No.: 08-01-38-001
Date: January 25, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Information On New GE-48800 CoolTech Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin is being issued to announce the release of GM approved Air Conditioning (A/C)
Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging Equipment that meets the new Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE) J2788 Refrigerant Recovery Standards. The ACR2000 (J-43600) cannot be
manufactured in its current state after December 2007 and will be superseded by GE-48800.
The new J2788 standard does not require that GM Dealers replace their ACR2000 units.
ACR2000's currently in use are very capable of servicing today's refrigerant systems when used
correctly and can continue to be used. Details regarding the new SAE J2788 standard are outlined
in GM Bulletin 07-01-38-004.
Effective February 1 2008, new A/C Refrigerant Recovery/Recharging equipment (P/N GE-48800)
will be released as a required replacement for the previously essential ACR2000 (J-43600). This
equipment is SAE J2788 compliant and meets GM requirements for A/C Refrigerant System
Repairs on all General Motors vehicles, including Hybrid systems with Polyolester (POE)
refrigerant oil. This equipment will not be shipped as an essential tool to GM Dealerships.
In addition, this equipment is Hybrid compliant and designed to prevent oil cross contamination
when servicing Hybrid vehicles with Electric A/C Compressors that use POE refrigerant oil.
The ACR2000 (J-43600) will need to be retrofitted with a J-43600-50 (Hose - ACR2000 Oil Flush
Loop) to be able to perform Hybrid A/C service work. All Hybrid dealers will receive the J-43600-50,
with installation instructions, as a component of the Hybrid essential tool package. Dealerships that
do not sell Hybrids, but may need to service Hybrids, can obtain J-43600-50 from SPX Kent Moore.
Refer to GM Bulletin 08-01-39-001 for the ACR2000 Hose Flush procedure.
The High Voltage (HV) electric A/C compressor used on Two Mode Hybrid vehicles uses a
Polyolester (POE) refrigerant oil instead of a Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) synthetic refrigerant oil.
This is due to the better electrical resistance of the POE oil and its ability to provide HV isolation.
Failure to flush the hoses before adding refrigerant to a Hybrid vehicle with an electric A/C
compressor may result in an unacceptable amount of PAG oil entering the refrigerant system. It
may cause a Battery Energy Control Module Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Lost
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC P1AE7) to be set. Additionally, the A/C system warranty will be
voided.
Warranty Submission Requirements
The Electronically Generated Repair Data (snapshot summary) and printer functions have been
eliminated from the GE-48800. The VGA display and temperature probes were eliminated to
reduce equipment costs. As a result, effective immediately the 18 digit "Snapshot/Charge
Summary" code is no longer required for Air Conditioning (A/C) refrigerant system repairs that are
submitted for warranty reimbursement. The charge summary data from before and after system
repairs will continue to required, but documented on the repair order only. Both high and low
pressures and the recovery and charge amounts should be noted during the repair and entered on
the repair order. If using ACR2000 (J-43600), the "Snapshot/Charge Summary" printouts should
continue to be attached to the shops copy of the repair order.
The labor codes that are affected by this requirement are D3000 through D4500.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 1890
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Contaminated R134A Refrigerant
Bulletin No.: 06-01-39-007
Date: July 25, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Contaminated R134a Refrigerant Found on Market for Automotive Air-Conditioning
Systems
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2007 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin should be directed to the Service Manager as well as the Parts Manager.
Commercially Available Contaminated R134a Refrigerant
Impurities have been found in new commercially available containers of R134a. High levels of
contaminates may cause decreased performance, and be detrimental to some air-conditioning
components. Accompanying these contaminates has been high levels of moisture.
Tip:
Excessive moisture may cause system concerns such as orifice tube freeze-up and reduced
performance.
Industry Reaction: New Industry Purity Standards
Due to the potential availability of these lower quality refrigerants, the Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE), and the Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Industry (ARI) are in the process of
instituting reliable standards that will be carried on the labels of future R134a refrigerant containers.
This identifying symbol will be your assurance of a product that conforms to the minimum standard
for OEM Automotive Air-Conditioning use.
How Can You Protect Yourself Today?
It is recommended to use GM or ACDelco(R) sourced refrigerants for all A/C repair work. These
refrigerants meet General Motors own internal standards for quality and purity, insuring that your
completed repairs are as good as the way it left the factory.
Parts Information
The part numbers shown are available through GMSPO or ACDelco(R). The nearest ACDelco(R)
distributor in your area can be found by calling 1-800-223-3526 (U.S. Only).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 1891
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 1892
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-006A
Date: May, 2000
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: J-43600 ACR 2000 Essential Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 1993-2000 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with R-134a Refrigerant
This bulletin is being revised to change the effective date and to update the text. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-38-006 (Section 01 - HVAC).
Effective June 1, 2000, the use of J-43600 ACR 2000 will be required on all repairs that require A/C
system recovery and are reimbursable by GM. Additionally, GM highly recommends that J-43600
ACR 2000 be used on all GM cars and trucks for customer paid A/C repairs.
Important:
Also effective June 1, 2000, the "Add" time for all air conditioning recovery is revised to 0.5 hours
for front systems and 0.7 hours for front/rear dual systems (RPO C69 or C34). After June 1, 2000,
all air conditioning claims submitted with the 0.9 hours "Add" time will be rejected for "labor hours
excessive".
After the completion of repairs (charging), the ACR 2000 will prompt the user to perform a snapshot
of the air conditioning system operating data. The snapshot includes:
^ Maximum high side pressure.
^ Minimum low side pressure.
^ Duct outlet temperatures (2).
^ Refrigerant purity information.
This information is captured on a paper printout and in a warranty code.
For all GM paid repairs, the paper printout should be attached to the shop copy of the repair order.
The warranty code must be submitted in the warranty claim information in the comments field. The
code enables the reporting of valuable information about the repair to GM for product quality
improvement. Claims submitted without this information may be subject to review and subsequent
debit.
The required use of J-43600 ACR 2000 raises the question of the acceptable uses for any existing
recovery/recycle equipment that GM dealers are currently using. GM recognizes that many of the
previously essential ACR4's are reaching the end of their useful life. There are several alternatives
for existing equipment that may be considered:
^ Use the existing equipment as customer paid recovery only equipment. Example: Collision repair
area.
^ Use the existing equipment as a scavenger unit for contaminated A/C systems.
^ Sell the existing units to repair facilities outside the GM dealer network.
^ Discontinue the use of the existing units if the repair/maintenance costs exceed the value of the
equipment.
^ Donate the existing equipment to local technical schools.
^ Dedicate the ACR4 to A/C system flushing, using the J-42939 Flush Adapter.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 1893
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
R-134a Charge Capacity 1.5 lb (US)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1896
Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Type R-134a GM P/N 12345922 Or Equivalent
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1897
Refrigerant: Service Precautions
Refrigerant drums have a heavy metal cap. The cap protects the valve and safety plug from
damage.For this reason, always replace the cap after each use.
Whenever a container of refrigerant must be carried in a vehicle, do not carry it in the passenger
compartment. See the manufacturers guidelines for storage, transportation and the maximum
temperature to which the container can be exposed.
When filling a small refrigerant drum from a large one, never fill the smaller drum completely.
Always leave space for the liquid to expand.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1898
Refrigerant: Description and Operation
The air conditioning system contains Refrigerant-134a, which requires special handling to avoid
personal injury. Refer to Handling Refrigerant.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - New PAG Oil
Refrigerant Oil: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - New PAG Oil
Bulletin No.: 02-01-39-004B
Date: November 16, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: New PAG Oil Released
Models: 2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2006 HUMMER
H2 2006 HUMMER H3 2005-2006 Saab 9-7X
Built With R-134a Refrigeration System
All Air Conditioning Compressor Types (Excluding R4 and A6 Type Compressors)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to change the PAG oil part number used for R4 and A6 compressors
with R-134a refrigerant systems. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-01-39-004A
(Section 01 - HVAC).
All General Motors vehicles built with R-134a refrigerant systems shall now be serviced with GM
Universal PAG Oil (excluding vehicles equipped with an R4 or A6 compressor).
R4 and A6 compressors with R-134a refrigerant systems shall use PAG OIL, GM P/N 12356151
(A/C Delco part number 15-118) (in Canada, use P/N 10953486).
Important:
The PAG oil referenced in this bulletin is formulated with specific additive packages that meet
General Motors specifications and use of another oil may void the A/C systems warranty.
Use this new PAG oil when servicing the A/C system on the vehicles listed above. Oil packaged in
an 8 oz tube should be installed using A/C Oil Injector, J 45037. Refer to the HVAC Section of
Service Information for detailed information on Oil Balancing and Capacities.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Oil: Capacity Specifications Refrigerant Oil Capacity
Refrigerant Oil Capacity
Polyalkaline Glycol (PAG) Synthetic Refrigerant Lubricant 9 oz (US)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 1905
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Oil Type Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) Synthetic Refrigerant Lubricant
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Motor
Rehome Procedure
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Motor Rehome Procedure
REHOME TEST
The motor rehome function will return all of the hydraulic modulator pistons to their upmost home,
position. This allows all fluid paths within the modulator to be open so that the modulator can be
properly bled. The motor rehome function must ALWAYS be used prior to bleeding the brake
system
IMPORTANT: The motor rehome function cannot be performed if any current DTCs are present. If
current DTCs are present, the vehicle must be repaired and DTCs cleared before performing the
motor rehome function.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Motor
Rehome Procedure > Page 1910
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding
CAUTION: Do not move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Air In the brake system
can cause the loss of brakes with possible personal injury.
A bleeding operation is necessary in order to remove air from the hydraulic brake system whenever
air is introduced into the brake system. Bleed the hydraulic system at all four brakes if air has been
introduced into the system through low fluid level or by disconnecting the brake pipes at the master
cylinder. If a brake pipe is disconnected at one wheel, bleed only that wheel cylinder/caliper. If the
pipes are disconnected at any fitting located between the master cylinder and brakes, bleed the
brake system served by the disconnected pipe. Observe the following steps in order to reduce the
time required to bleed the hydraulic system:
^ Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir is filled with brake fluid.
^ Expel as much air as possible before installing the master cylinder on the vehicle.
MANUAL BLEEDING
Tools Required ^
J 21472 Brake Bleeder Wrench
Apply the brakes several times with the ignition OFF. This will deplete the vacuum reserve. Use
extreme care in order to prevent brake fluid from contacting painted surfaces. 1. Fill the master
cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid in Maintenance and Lubrication in General
Information.
^ Maintain the fluid level in the reservoir during the bleeding operation.
^ Use an assistant in the vehicle in order to press the brake pedal during the manual bleeding
process.
2. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have air in the bore, bleed the master cylinder
before the wheel cylinder or the calipers are bled.
Complete the following steps:
3. Disconnect the forward brake pipe connections) (1) at the master cylinder. 4. Fill the master
cylinder with brake fluid until fluid begins to flow from the forward pipe connector port. 5. Connect
the forward brake pipe to the master cylinder. Tighten the pipe. 6. Slowly depress the brake pedal
and hold the pedal.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Motor
Rehome Procedure > Page 1911
7. Loosen the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder in order to purge air from the
cylinder. 8. Tighten the connection. 9. Slowly release the brake pedal.
10. Wait 15 seconds. 11. Repeat the previous eight steps until all air is removed from the bore.
Use extreme care in order to prevent brake fluid from contacting painted surfaces.
12. Bleed the master cylinder at the rear (cowl end) connections after all the air has been removed
at the forward connections. Slowly depress the
brake pedal and hold the pedal.
13. Check for a firm pedal feel and proper brake pedal travel. If the wheel cylinders and calipers do
not contain air, bleeding is not necessary, but
recommended in order to remove any moisture or debris.
14. After all air is removed from the master cylinder, bleed the wheel cylinders in the following
order, if necessary:
14.1. Right rear 14.2. Left rear 14.3. Right front 14.4. Left front
15. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking.
16. Place a proper size box end wrench (1) (or special tool) over the caliper/cylinder bleeder valve.
17. Attach a transparent tube (2) over the bleeder screw.
Submerge the other end in a transparent container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
18. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold the pedal. 19. Loosen the bleeder screw in order to
purge the air from the cylinder/caliper.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
20. Tighten the bleeder screw.
^ Tighten the rear bleeder screws to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.).
^ Tighten the front bleeder screws to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
21. Slowly release the pedal. 22. Wait 15 seconds. 23. Repeat the previous five steps until all air is
removed from the caliper.
Do not pump the brake pedal rapidly. Pumping the pedal pushes the master cylinder secondary
piston down the bore which causes difficult bleeding.
24. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Motor
Rehome Procedure > Page 1912
25. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. 26. Check the brake pedal for sponginess or
excessive travel.
Repeat the entire manual bleeding procedure in order to correct either of the two conditions.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
Tools Required ^
J 29532 Diaphragm Type Brake Bleeder
^ J 35589 pressure Bleeder Adapter Cap
^ J 21472 Brake Bleeder Wrench
NOTICE: Pressure bleeding equipment must be of the diaphragm type. It must have a rubber
diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, oil and other
contaminants from entering the hydraulic system.
1. Install the J 35589 to the master cylinder 2. Charge the J 29532 to 140-172 kPa (20-25 psi). 3.
Connect the line to the J 35589. 4. Open the line valve. 5. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle.
Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking. 6. Bleed the wheel cylinders/calipers in the following order, if
necessary:
6.1. Right rear 6.2. Left rear 6.3. Right front 6.4. Left front
7. Place the J 21472 over the caliper/cylinder bleeder valve. 8. Attach a transparent tube over the
bleeder screw.
Submerge the opposite hose end in a transparent container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
9. Open the bleeder screw at least 3/4 of a turn.
Allow the fluid to flow until no air is visible in the fluid.
10. Close the bleeder screw.
^ Tighten the rear bleeder screws to 7 Nm (6.2 inch lbs.).
^ Tighten the front bleeder screws to 13 Nm ( 115 inch lbs.).
11. Repeat the previous four steps until all of the calipers/cylinders have been bled.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Motor
Rehome Procedure > Page 1913
12. Lower the vehicle. 13. Inspect the brake pedal for sponginess. Repeat this entire pressure
bleeding procedure in order to correct this conditions. 14. Remove the J 35589 and the J 29532.
15. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. 2. Turn the
ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Remove the key from the ignition switch. 4. Remove the left
IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
IMPORTANT: With the AIR BAG Fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, The
AIR BAG warning lamp illuminates. This is normal operation, and does not indicate an SIR system
malfunction.
Description
5. Remove the AIR BAG Fuse from the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console.
6. Remove the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 7. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the driver yellow 2-way
connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 1918
8. Disconnect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
9. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
10. Disconnect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering
column.
Enabling the SIR System
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Connect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 1919
3. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
4. Connect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
5. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the driver yellow 2-way connector located
near the base of the steering column. 6. Install the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 1920
Description
7. Install the AIR BAG fuse to the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 8. Install the left IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 9. Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
9.1. The AIR BAG warning lamp will flash seven times.
9.2. The AIR BAG warning lamp will then turn OFF.
10. Perform the SIR Diagnostic System Check if the AIR BAG warning lamp does not operate as
described.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 1921
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the SIR system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) maintains a reserve energy supply.
The reserve energy supply provides deployment power for the air bags. Deployment power is
available for as much as 10 minutes after disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following
methods:
^ You turn OFF the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the SDM.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR system prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply power.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-64-06 > Dec > 97 > Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump Fuse
Fuse: Customer Interest Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump Fuse
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 73-64-06
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Various Electrical and/or Driveability Concerns (Repair Engine Wiring Harness)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition
Some customers of J cars with the LN2 2200 engine may experience a blown fuel pump fuse, no
start, or driveability concerns.
Cause
Condition may due to two areas of engine wiring damage. The # 4 fuel injector/EGR harness may
contact the RH front corner of the brake master cylinder, resulting in damage to one or more of the
wires in the harness bundle. Also, the main engine wire harness may contact the transaxle cooler
line bracket near the transaxle on vehicles with the 4 speed automatic transmission.
Correction
To repair the # 4 injector/EGR harness, repair the wire using Service Manual procedures and install
a 60 mm (2.5 in.) section of flexible polypropylene or nylon conduit (suitable for high temperature,
underhood usage) over the harness to prevent further damage. Make sure that EGR and injector
wires are both captured by the conduit. Tape the ends of the conduit.
To repair the main engine wire harness chafing against the transaxle oil cooler line bracket, repair
the wire using Service Manual procedures and use a plastic tie strap to secure the main engine
wire harness to the battery cables. This will locate the engine wire harness away from the cooler
line bracket at the transaxle.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N6270 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuse: > 07-08-45-002 > Sep > 07 > Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse
Warning
Fuse: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuse: > 73-64-06 > Dec > 97 > Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown
Pump Fuse
Fuse: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump Fuse
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 73-64-06
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Various Electrical and/or Driveability Concerns (Repair Engine Wiring Harness)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition
Some customers of J cars with the LN2 2200 engine may experience a blown fuel pump fuse, no
start, or driveability concerns.
Cause
Condition may due to two areas of engine wiring damage. The # 4 fuel injector/EGR harness may
contact the RH front corner of the brake master cylinder, resulting in damage to one or more of the
wires in the harness bundle. Also, the main engine wire harness may contact the transaxle cooler
line bracket near the transaxle on vehicles with the 4 speed automatic transmission.
Correction
To repair the # 4 injector/EGR harness, repair the wire using Service Manual procedures and install
a 60 mm (2.5 in.) section of flexible polypropylene or nylon conduit (suitable for high temperature,
underhood usage) over the harness to prevent further damage. Make sure that EGR and injector
wires are both captured by the conduit. Tape the ends of the conduit.
To repair the main engine wire harness chafing against the transaxle oil cooler line bracket, repair
the wire using Service Manual procedures and use a plastic tie strap to secure the main engine
wire harness to the battery cables. This will locate the engine wire harness away from the cooler
line bracket at the transaxle.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N6270 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuse: > 07-08-45-002 > Sep > 07 > Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Fuse: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Fuse Block
Fuse: Locations Fuse Block
Component Location Views
At the left end of the tie bar
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Fuse Block > Page 1947
Fuse: Locations Engine Compartment Fuse Relay Center
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Fuse Block > Page 1948
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Fuse Block > Page 1949
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block > Page 1952
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Fuse Block: Electrical Specifications
Front View Of Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 1957
Fuse Block: Mechanical Specifications
Convenience Center to I/P ..................................................................................................................
............................................................6 N.m (53 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > Convenience Center
Fuse Block: Locations Convenience Center
Convenience Center
At the right front of the passenger compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > Convenience Center > Page 1960
Fuse Block: Locations Fuse Block
Component Location Views
At the left end of the tie bar
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > Convenience Center > Page 1961
Fuse Block: Locations Engine Compartment Fuse Relay Center
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1
Fuse Block: Diagrams C1
Convenience Center (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1964
Convenience Center (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1965
Convenience Center (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block > Page 1968
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Page 1969
Fuse Block: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Remove the battery ground negative cable. 2. Remove the instrument panel compartment. 3.
Remove the instrument panel access hole cover from the instrument panel. 4. Remove the
electrical connectors. 5. Remove the fuse block from the tie bar (6).
6. Remove the fuse block (5) from the instrument panel.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Page 1970
1. Install the fuse block (5) to the instrument panel.
2. Install the fuse block to the tie bar (2). 3. Install the electrical connectors. 4. Install the right
instrument panel access hole cover to the instrument panel. 5. Install the battery ground negative
cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fusible Link > Component Information >
Locations
Fusible Link: Locations
Lower Front Of Engine
LH center of engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Locations
Relay Box: Locations
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Front View Of Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center > Page 1979
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center (Alt Fuel)
Left Front Corner, Behind Headlamp
1. Ignition Relay 2. Fuel Pump Relay 3. Lock-off Relay 4. Fuel Gauge Relay 5. C023 6. C011 7.
C007 8. C004
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > System Information > Service Precautions
Service Reminder Indicators: Service Precautions
SERVICE PRECAUTION
All Service Reminder Indicators should be investigated or serviced immediately. Vehicle damage
may result if the indicator is ignored.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
LIFTING AND JACKING THE VEHICLE
Caution: To help avoid personal injury, always use jack stands when you are working on or under
any vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
Caution: To help avoid personal injury, when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for
the vehicle at the opposite end from which you are removing components. The additional support
will reduce the possibility of the vehicle falling off the hoist. When you are removing major
components from the vehicle while the vehicle is on a hoist, chain the vehicle frame to the hoist
pads at the same end from which you are removing the major components to prevent tip-off. If you
fail to follow these precautionary measures, vehicle damage, serious personal injury, or death may
result.
Notice: When you are jacking or lifting a vehicle at the frame side rails or other prescribed lift
points, be certain that the lift pads do not contact the catalytic converter, the brake pipes or the fuel
lines. If such contact occurs, vehicle damage or unsatisfactory vehicle performance may result.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Spare Tire > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Spare Tire: Service and Repair
All vehicles are equipped with a high pressure compact spare tire. The compact spare tire uses a
narrow 4-inch wide rim, although the wheel diameter is usually one inch larger than the road
wheels. Do not use the compact spare tire with standard tires, snow tires, wheel covers or trim
rings. If such use is attempted, damage to these items or other parts of the vehicle may occur. Use
the compact spare tire only on vehicles which offered the spare tire as the original equipment.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury, do not stand over tire when Inflating. The bead may
break when the bead snaps over the safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when
Inflating any tire If beads are not seated If 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat the beads,
deflate, relubricate the beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause
serious personal injury.
Periodically check inflation pressure. Maintain inflation pressure at 415 kPa (60 psi). The compact
spare tire can be mounted and dismounted from the wheel using present tire changing equipment
and procedures. As with other tires, completely seat the beads at 275 kPa (40 psi). The tire may
then be safely inflated to 415 kPa (60 psi).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Wheels: Customer Interest Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 1999
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 2000
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 2001
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: Customer Interest Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels >
Page 2006
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2012
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2013
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2014
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels > Page 2019
longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2024
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2025
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV)
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV) > Page 2030
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV) > Page 2031
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV) > Page 2032
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast
Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast
Aluminum Wheels > Page 2037
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust
Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE Chrome Plated
Aluminum Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420
Wheel Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2055
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2056
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2057
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels > Page 2062
longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2067
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2068
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust
Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum
Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel
Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 2081
Wheels: Specifications
Maximum Radial Runout:
Steel Wheel .........................................................................................................................................
............................................. 1.01 mm (0.040 inch) Aluminum Wheels ...............................................
............................................................................................................................ 0.76 mm (0.030
inch)
Maximum Lateral Runout:
Steel Wheels .......................................................................................................................................
............................................. 1.14 mm (0.045 inch) Aluminum Wheels ...............................................
............................................................................................................................ 0.76 mm (0.030
inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Description and
Operation > General Description
Wheels: Description and Operation General Description
The factory installed tires and wheels are designed to operate with loads up to and including the full
rated load capacity when inflated to the recommended inflation pressures.
Correct tire pressures, wheel alignment and driving techniques have an important influence on tire
life. Heavy cornering, excessive rapid acceleration, and heavy braking will increase tire wear.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Description and
Operation > General Description > Page 2084
Wheels: Description and Operation Wheel Repair Description
Wheel repairs that use welding, heating or peening are not approved. An inner tube is not an
acceptable repair for leaky wheels or tires. Porosity in aluminum wheels can be repaired. Refer to
ALUMINUM WHEEL POROSITY REPAIR.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Description and
Operation > General Description > Page 2085
Wheels: Description and Operation Wheels Description
Wheels must be replaced if they are bent, dented, have excessive lateral or radial runout, leak air
through welds, have elongated bolt holes, if the wheel nuts won't stay tight, or if wheel nuts are
heavily rusted. Wheels with excessive runout may cause objectionable vibrations.
Replacement wheels must be equivalent to the original equipment wheels in load capacity,
diameter, rim width, offset, and mounting configuration. A wheel of improper size or type may affect
wheel and bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance,
and tire clearance to the body and chassis.
Steel wheels can be identified by a two or three-letter code stamped into the rim near the valve
stem. Aluminum wheels have the code, part number, and manufacturer ID cast into their back side.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Removal
Wheels: Service and Repair Removal
Penetrating oil is not effective in removing tight wheels. However, if it is used, apply sparingly to the
center hole area of the wheel only.
CAUTION: If penetrating all gets on the vertical surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or drum,
it could cause the wheel to work loose as the vehicle is driven, resulting In a loss of control and an
Injury accident.
Wheels can be difficult to remove due to foreign material or a tight fit between the wheel center
hole and the rotor. Excessive force, such as hammering the wheel or tire, can cause damage and
is not recommended. Slight tapping on the tire sidewall using a large rubber mallet is acceptable.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Using the following procedure, the wheel can be removed without damage. 1. Tighten all of the
wheel nuts on the affected wheel. Then loosen each nut two turns. Rock the vehicle from side to
side. If this is not effective go to
the next step. If this procedure is effective, go to Step 3.
2. Rock the vehicle from Drive to Reverse, allowing the vehicle to move several feet in each
direction. Apply quick, hard jabs on the brake pedal in
order to loosen the wheel. If the wheel still does not free up, then rock the vehicle again from side
to side as hard as possible using one or more person's body weight. If the wheel is still tight, repeat
the procedure.
3. Raise the vehicle and suitably support the vehicle. 4. Remove the wheel cover. 5. Remove the
wheel nuts. 6. Mark the location of the tire and wheel assembly to the hub assembly. 7. Clean the
wheel nuts, studs and the wheel and brake chum or rotor mounting surfaces.
CAUTION: Before Installing a wheel, remove any buildup of corrosion on the wheel mounting
surface and brake drum or rotor by scraping and wire brushing. Installing wheels without good
metal-to-metal contact at the mounting surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen, which may later
allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Removal > Page 2088
Wheels: Service and Repair Installation
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the cap on the aluminum wheel, if necessary. 2. Install the tire and the wheel assembly.
Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION. 3. Align the locating mark of the tire and the wheel with the hub
assembly.
CAUTION: Never use all or grease on studs or nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with your fingers unto
they are snug. Then, tighten the nuts (In the sequence shown) to the fastener tightening
specification shown in SPECIFICATIONS. Improperly tightened wheel nuts could eventually allow
the wheel to come off while the vehicle is moving, possibly causing loss of control, personal injury,
and property damage.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
4. Install the wheel nuts.
Tighten Tighten the wheel nuts in sequence to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the wheel cover, if equipped. 6. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Removal > Page 2089
Wheels: Service and Repair Aluminum Wheel Hub Cap Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
WHEEL REMOVAL. 3. Use the following procedure in order to remove the hub cap:
^ Place a block of wood, approximately 50 mm (2 in) in diameter with a squared off end, against
the back surface of the cap.
^ Strike the block of wood sharply with a hammer in order to remove the cap.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the hub cap using the following procedure:
^ Place the cap into position at the wheel opening.
^ Place a block of wood, at least 75 mm t3 in), on the diameter against the cap face.
NOTICE: Failure to hit the cap squarely without the load distributed evenly could result in
permanent damage to the cap.
^ Install the cap by striking the block of wood with a harmer.
2. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Removal > Page 2090
Wheels: Service and Repair Aluminum Wheel Porosity Repair
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
WHEEL REMOVAL. 3. Locate the leaking areas by inflating the tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and dipping
the tire and the wheel assembly into a water bath. 4. Mark the leak areas and remove the tire from
the wheel. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING. 5. Scuff the inside of the rim surface
at the leak area with 80 number grit sandpaper. Clean the area with general purpose cleaner. 6.
Apply a 3 mm (1/8 inch) thick layer of adhesive/sealant to the leak area and allow six hours of
drying time. 7. Mount the tire on the wheel. Pressurize the tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and check for
leaks. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal Injury, do nor stand over tire when Inflating. The bead may
break when the bead snaps over the safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when
inflating any tire if beads are not seated. If 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat the beads,
deflate, relubricate the beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause
serious personal Injury.
8. Adjust the tire pressure in order to meet specifications. 9. Balance the tire and the wheel
assembly.
10. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Removal > Page 2091
Wheels: Service and Repair
Removal
Penetrating oil is not effective in removing tight wheels. However, if it is used, apply sparingly to the
center hole area of the wheel only.
CAUTION: If penetrating all gets on the vertical surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or drum,
it could cause the wheel to work loose as the vehicle is driven, resulting In a loss of control and an
Injury accident.
Wheels can be difficult to remove due to foreign material or a tight fit between the wheel center
hole and the rotor. Excessive force, such as hammering the wheel or tire, can cause damage and
is not recommended. Slight tapping on the tire sidewall using a large rubber mallet is acceptable.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Using the following procedure, the wheel can be removed without damage. 1. Tighten all of the
wheel nuts on the affected wheel. Then loosen each nut two turns. Rock the vehicle from side to
side. If this is not effective go to
the next step. If this procedure is effective, go to Step 3.
2. Rock the vehicle from Drive to Reverse, allowing the vehicle to move several feet in each
direction. Apply quick, hard jabs on the brake pedal in
order to loosen the wheel. If the wheel still does not free up, then rock the vehicle again from side
to side as hard as possible using one or more person's body weight. If the wheel is still tight, repeat
the procedure.
3. Raise the vehicle and suitably support the vehicle. 4. Remove the wheel cover. 5. Remove the
wheel nuts. 6. Mark the location of the tire and wheel assembly to the hub assembly. 7. Clean the
wheel nuts, studs and the wheel and brake chum or rotor mounting surfaces.
CAUTION: Before Installing a wheel, remove any buildup of corrosion on the wheel mounting
surface and brake drum or rotor by scraping and wire brushing. Installing wheels without good
metal-to-metal contact at the mounting surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen, which may later
allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion.
Installation
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the cap on the aluminum wheel, if necessary. 2. Install the tire and the wheel assembly.
Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION. 3. Align the locating mark of the tire and the wheel with the hub
assembly.
CAUTION: Never use all or grease on studs or nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with your fingers unto
they are snug. Then, tighten the nuts (In the sequence shown) to the fastener tightening
specification shown in SPECIFICATIONS. Improperly tightened wheel nuts could eventually allow
the wheel to come off while the vehicle is moving, possibly causing loss of control, personal injury,
and property damage.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
4. Install the wheel nuts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Removal > Page 2092
Tighten Tighten the wheel nuts in sequence to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the wheel cover, if equipped. 6. Lower the vehicle.
Aluminum Wheel Hub Cap Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
WHEEL REMOVAL. 3. Use the following procedure in order to remove the hub cap:
^ Place a block of wood, approximately 50 mm (2 in) in diameter with a squared off end, against
the back surface of the cap.
^ Strike the block of wood sharply with a hammer in order to remove the cap.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the hub cap using the following procedure:
^ Place the cap into position at the wheel opening.
^ Place a block of wood, at least 75 mm t3 in), on the diameter against the cap face.
NOTICE: Failure to hit the cap squarely without the load distributed evenly could result in
permanent damage to the cap.
^ Install the cap by striking the block of wood with a harmer.
2. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Aluminum Wheel Porosity Repair
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
WHEEL REMOVAL. 3. Locate the leaking areas by inflating the tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and dipping
the tire and the wheel assembly into a water bath. 4. Mark the leak areas and remove the tire from
the wheel. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING. 5. Scuff the inside of the rim surface
at the leak area with 80 number grit sandpaper. Clean the area with general purpose cleaner. 6.
Apply a 3 mm (1/8 inch) thick layer of adhesive/sealant to the leak area and allow six hours of
drying time. 7. Mount the tire on the wheel. Pressurize the tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and check for
leaks. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal Injury, do nor stand over tire when Inflating. The bead may
break when the bead snaps over the safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when
inflating any tire if beads are not seated. If 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat the beads,
deflate, relubricate the beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause
serious personal Injury.
8. Adjust the tire pressure in order to meet specifications. 9. Balance the tire and the wheel
assembly.
10. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing
A protective clear or color coating is applied to the surface of original equipment cast aluminum
wheels. A surface degradation condition can begin to develop if this clear coating is damaged or
removed. This can happen at some automatic car wash facilities using aggressive silicon carbide
tipped tire brushes in order to clean the white walls and the tires. Once the protective coating is
damaged, exposure to caustic cleaners and/or road salt causes further surface degradation. The
following procedure details how to strip, clean and coat the aluminum wheels that are affected by
these conditions. Use the listed materials when completing this procedure.
^ Amchem Alumi Prep number 33 - stock number DX533 or the equivalent - cleaning and
conditioning chemical for aluminum.
^ Amchem Alodine number 1001 - stock number DX50T or the equivalent-coating chemical for
aluminum.
^ Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane Clear - stock number DAU-75 or equivalent.
^ Ditzler Delthane Ultra-Urethane Additive - stock DXR-80 or equivalent.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 2.
Match mark the tire for reinstallation of the outboard wheel weights after the recoating of the wheel.
3. Remove the outboard wheel weights. 4. Clean the inside and the outside of the wheel with a
water base all purpose cleaner. 5. Remove grease or oil from the wheel with a solvent cleaner.
SURFACE DAMAGE
CAUTION: Do not use vehicle power to rotate the wheel while sanding to avoid personal injury.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Removal > Page 2093
1. Sand over painted areas that do not require recoloring with number 400 (wet or dry) in order to
promote adhesion of a clear coat. 2. Mount the tire and the wheel on a brake lathe and spin slowly.
NOTICE: Do not use an abrasive coarser than 80 grit or wheel may be damaged.
3. Sand wheel with a backing block or a pad by holding the abrasive flat in order to the surface of
the wheel and moving slowly back and forth from
the center to the outer edge to remove damage. Use the following sandpaper grits in the order
listed: 3.1. Sand with number 80 grit sandpaper. 3.2. Sand with number 150 grit sandpaper. 3.3.
Sand with number 240 grit sandpaper.
RE-COATING PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection is necessary to prevent personal injury.
1. Clean the surface of the contaminants by washing the surface with soap and water. 2. Spray the
wheel with Amchem number 33 or the equivalent. 3. Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes. 4. Rinse
the wheel with water. Blow the wheel dry with compressed air. 5. Soak the wheel with Amchem
number 1001 or the equivalent. 6. Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes. 7. Rinse the wheel with
water. Blow the wheel dry with compressed air. 8. Mask off the tire.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury when applying any two part component paint system,
follow the specific precautions provided by the paint manufacturer. Failure to follow these
precautions may cause lung irritation and allergic respiratory reaction.
9. Finish the wheel with Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane and Ditzler Ultra-Urethane Additive or the
equivalent using the following three coats.
Refer to the labels for specific instructions: ^
First coat-light mist coat, let flash.
^ Second coat-light, let flash.
^ Third coat-heavy double wet coat.
10. Let the wheel dry for 24 hours (or flash for 30 minutes, force dry at 60° C (140° F) for 30
minutes, and allow to cool for 30 minutes before
mounting.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Balance the tire and the wheel assembly. 2. Replace the original balance weights with nylon
coated weights in order to avoid discoloration of the wheel. 3. Install the tire and the wheel
assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Clearcoat Damage to Aluminum Wheels
UNPAINTED WHEELS
1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 2. Match
mark the tire for reinstallation of the outboard wheel weights after the recoating of the wheel. 3.
Remove the outboard wheel weights. 4. Clean the wheel inside and out with a water base all
purpose cleaner. 5. Remove the grease or the oil with a solvent cleaner. 6. Sand over painted
areas that do not require recoloring with number 400 (wet or dry) to promote adhesion of clear
coat.
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection is necessary to prevent personal Injury.
7. Apply the chemical stripper. 8. Allow the stripper to penetrate the coating. 9. Use a small 1/4
inch-detail brush dipped in stripper in order to apply the material around the perimeter and the
spoke-like areas.
10. Remove the stripper following the manufacturer's recommendations.
CAUTION: Do not use vehicle power to rotate the wheel walls sanding to avoid personal Injury.
11. Sand the wheel with 240 grit while rotating the wheel on a slow spinning brake lathe or by
mounting on the vehicle and spinning by hand. This
will restore the machined appearance and promote adhesion.
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection Is necessary to prevent personal injury.
12. Clean the surface of the contaminants by washing the surface with soap and water. 13. Spray
the wheel with Amchem number 33 or the equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Removal > Page 2094
14. Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes. 15. Rinse the wheel with water. Blow the wheel dry with
compressed air. 16. Soak the wheel with Amchem number 1001 or the equivalent. 17. Let the
wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes. 18. Rinse the wheel with water. Blow the wheel dry with compressed
air. 19. Mask off the tire. 20. Finish the wheel with Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane and Ditzler
Ultra-Urethane Additive or the equivalent using the following three coats.
Refer to the labels for specific instructions. ^
First coat-light mist coat, let flash.
^ Second coat-light, let flash.
^ Third coat-heavy double wet coat.
21. Let the wheel dry for 24 hours (or flash for 30 minutes, force dry at 60° C (140° F) for 30
minutes, and allow to cool for 30 minutes before
mounting.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Balance the wheel and the tire assembly. 2. Replace the original balance weights with nylon
coated weights in order to avoid discoloration of the wheel. 3. Install the tire and the wheel
assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Specifications
Wheel Bearing: Specifications
This vehicle uses a sealed wheel bearing and lubricating grease is not required.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 28733-B Front Hub Spindle Remover
1. Remove the drive axle. Refer to WHEEL DRIVE SHAFTS REPLACEMENT in Drive Axles,
Bearings and Joints. 2. Remove brake caliper bolts and support caliper. Refer to BRAKE CALIPER
REPLACEMENT in BRAKES. 3. Remove the rotor. Refer to ROTOR REPLACEMENT in
HYDRAULIC BRAKES.
4. Remove the bolts (1) from the hub and bearing assembly (3).
5. Remove the hub and bearing assembly (1) from the steering knuckle (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front > Page 2100
1. Install the hub and bearing assembly (1) into the steering knuckle (2).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the hub and bearing bolts (1) and washers (2).
Tighten Tighten the bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the rotor. Refer to ROTOR REPLACEMENT in HYDRAULIC BRAKES. 4. Install the brake
caliper and bolts. Refer to BRAKE CALIPER REPLACEMENT in BRAKES. 5. Install the drive axle.
Refer to WHEEL DRIVE SHAFTS REPLACEMENT in DRIVE AXLES, BEARINGS AND JOINTS.
6. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS in WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front > Page 2101
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear
REAR HUB AND/OR BEARINGS
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL
REMOVAL.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum as damage to the bearing could result.
3. Remove the brake drum. Refer To BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. 4. Remove the hub and
bearing assembly (4) from the axle (2). The top rear attaching bolt (5) and nut (1) will not clear the
brake shoe (3) when
removing the hub and bearing assembly. Partially remove the hub and bearing assembly prior to
removing this bolt.
5. Disconnect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 2. Install the hub and bearing
assembly (4). Position the top rear attaching bolt (5) in the hub and bearing assembly prior to the
installation in the axle
assembly (2).
Tighten Tighten the hub and bearing to axle bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Install the brake drum. Refer to BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. 4. Install the tire and wheel
assemblies. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information > Specifications
Wheel Cover: Specifications
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information >
Specifications > Front
Axle Nut: Specifications
Drive Axle Nut 200 Nm (144 ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information >
Specifications > Front > Page 2110
Axle Nut: Specifications
Rear Hub and Bearing to Axle Bolts 60 Nm (44 ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > NHTSA97V219000 > Nov > 97 > Recall 97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Wheel Fastener: Recalls Recall 97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Year: 1998 Make: CHEVROLET, PONTIAC Model: CAVALIER, SUNFIRE Year of Recall: '97 Type
of Report: Vehicle Potential Number of Units Affected: 24 Summary:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. The wheel lug nuts were not tightened securely resulting
in a fracture of the wheel studs.
The wheel could separate from the vehicle. If the vehicle were in motion, a vehicle crash could
result.
Dealers will inspect and replace the brake pipe.
Dealer notification began November 21, 1997. All vehicles are still at dealers. No owners are
involved.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: Customer Interest Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing >
Page 2124
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel
Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel
Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 2130
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > NHTSA97V219000 > Nov > 97 > Recall
97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Year: 1998 Make: CHEVROLET, PONTIAC Model: CAVALIER, SUNFIRE Year of Recall: '97 Type
of Report: Vehicle Potential Number of Units Affected: 24 Summary:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. The wheel lug nuts were not tightened securely resulting
in a fracture of the wheel studs.
The wheel could separate from the vehicle. If the vehicle were in motion, a vehicle crash could
result.
Dealers will inspect and replace the brake pipe.
Dealer notification began November 21, 1997. All vehicles are still at dealers. No owners are
involved.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut
Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut
Covers Loose/Missing > Page 2140
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > NHTSA97V219000 > Nov > 97 > Recall 97V219000:
Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Year: 1998 Make: CHEVROLET, PONTIAC Model: CAVALIER, SUNFIRE Year of Recall: '97 Type
of Report: Vehicle Potential Number of Units Affected: 24 Summary:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. The wheel lug nuts were not tightened securely resulting
in a fracture of the wheel studs.
The wheel could separate from the vehicle. If the vehicle were in motion, a vehicle crash could
result.
Dealers will inspect and replace the brake pipe.
Dealer notification began November 21, 1997. All vehicles are still at dealers. No owners are
involved.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications > Tightening Torque
Wheel Fastener: Specifications Tightening Torque
All Wheel Nuts .....................................................................................................................................
............................................... 140 N.m (100 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications > Tightening Torque > Page 2148
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2149
Wheel Fastener: Description and Operation
All models use metric wheel nuts and wheel studs. The nut will have the word metric stamped on
the face and the stud will have the letter M stamped into the threaded end. The word metric is
stamped on the head.
The thread size of the metric wheel nuts and wheel studs are M 12 x 1.5 This signifies:
^ M = Metric
^ 12 = Diameter in millimeters
^ 1.5 = Millimeters per thread
If a broken stud is found, refer to FRONT SUSPENSION or DRIVE AXLE for the replacement
procedure.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair Front Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 6627-A Wheel Stud Remover
- J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover
1. Remove the hub and bearing assembly (2). Refer to WHEEL BEARING AND WHEEL HUB
REPLACEMENT. 2. Remove the wheel stud (1) from the hub and bearing assembly using the J
6627-A. 3. Discard the stud.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new wheel stud (1) into the hub and bearing assembly (2). 2. Install the flat washers
(3) and nut, flat side down, onto the wheel stud. Tighten until the wheel stud is fully seated. 3.
Install the hub and bearing assembly. Refer to WHEEL BEARING AND WHEEL HUB
REPLACEMENT. 4. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to MEASURING WHEEL ALIGNMENT
(FRONT ALIGNMENT ANGLES).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 2152
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 6627-A Wheel Stud Remover
1. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 2. Remove the brake
drum. Refer to BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum as damage to the bearing could result.
3. Remove the wheel stud (2) using the J 6627-A. 4. Discard the wheel stud (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new stud from the back side of the hub.
2. Install the four flat washers (1) on the hub. 3. Install the wheel nut (2) with the flat side toward the
washers (1). 4. Tighten the nut (2) until the stud head is properly seated in the hub flange. 5.
Remove the nut (2) and the washers (1). 6. Install the brake drum. Refer to BRAKE DRUM
REPLACEMENT. 7. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information
Towing Information: Technical Service Bulletins Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information
Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-008F
Date: July 28, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Recreational (Dinghy) Towing
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2157
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years, models and additional information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-00-89-008E (Section 00 - General Information).
Some customers may want to tow their vehicle behind another vehicle with all FOUR tires on the
ground. This is referred to as "dinghy" towing. Towing in this manner is acceptable only on the
certain vehicles. The vehicle should be properly equipped and prepared as described below. The
passenger cars listed above are the vehicles that CAN be dinghy towed. Passenger cars not listed
above are vehicles where dinghy towing is not permitted or recommended.
Certain 4WD trucks can be dinghy towed depending on the transfer case option. Rear wheel drive
and AWD trucks should NOT be dinghy towed. Refer to the truck models and transfer case options
below.
Please refer to the applicable vehicle Owner's Manual before towing.
Passenger Cars
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2158
Note:
The vehicles shown must not be towed backwards or transmission damage may occur.
Towing Procedure
Note:
Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the transmission.
Important:
The towing speed as stated in the Owner's Manual should not exceed 104 km/h (65 mph) for
1995-2005 vehicles.
In order to properly dinghy tow the vehicle, follow these steps:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Open the fuse panel and pull the fuse(s) indicated in the Owner's Manual section detailing
towing your vehicle. This prevents the instrument panel (IP) and/or electronic PRNDL indicator
from draining the battery.
3. Securely attach the vehicle to the tow vehicle.
4. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position, which is one position forward of LOCK. Unlocking the
steering column allows for proper movement of the front wheels and tires during towing.
For 1997-1999 Cutlass, 1997-2003 Malibu, 2004-2006 Chevrolet Classic and 1999-2004
Alero/Grand Am models, turn the ignition switch to the accessory (ACC) position, which is one
position forward of OFF. This position unlocks the transaxle.
5. Shift the transmission to Neutral (N).
Note:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2159
Use extra care whenever towing another vehicle. Do not exceed the towing vehicle's gross
combination weight (GCW) by adding the weight of the dinghy towed vehicle or vehicle damage
may result.
6. When the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle, release the parking brake.
7. Replace the fuse(s) in the fuse panel when finished towing.
Tracker Models
Note:
Locking the steering column when towing your vehicle may damage the steering column. Always
unlock the steering column before towing.
Important:
^ Two-wheel drive Trackers cannot be dinghy towed. Two-wheel drive models MUST be towed with
the rear drive wheels on a dolly.
^ The towing speed must not exceed 90 km/h (55 mph).
In order to properly dinghy tow a 4WD Tracker, follow these steps:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission into Park (AT) or second gear (MT).
3. With the ignition key in the ON position, move the transfer case to Neutral. Make sure the 4WD
indicator on the instrument panel cluster is Off.
4. Turn the ignition key to ACC in order to unlock the steering wheel.
5. Release the parking brake.
Stop towing the vehicle every 300 km (200 mi) and do the following steps:
1. Start the engine of the towed vehicle.
2. Leave the transfer case shift lever in Neutral.
3. Shift the transmission to Drive (AT). For vehicles with (MT), leave the transmission in second
gear with the clutch engaged.
4. Run the engine at medium speed for one minute to circulate the oil through the transfer case.
2003-2007 Pontiac Vibe
Only the front wheel drive vehicles with manual transmission are designed to be dinghy towed. Use
the following procedure to properly dinghy tow these models:
1. Place the shift lever in Neutral.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position to avoid locking the steering wheel. Make sure that
the audio system is turned off and that nothing is plugged into the power outlets.
3. Release the parking brake.
4. After dinghy towing the vehicle, let the engine idle for more than three minutes before driving the
vehicle.
Four Wheel Drive and All Wheel Drive Light Duty Trucks
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2160
Dinghy towing is permitted on the trucks shown with the transfer case placed in the Neutral
position. Refer to the end of this bulletin for identification information to determine type of transfer
case.
The vehicles shown should NOT be dinghy towed because the transfer cases in these vehicles
either have no neutral position or do not have an internal oil pump to provide lubrication while being
towed. In order to properly tow the vehicles, place the vehicle on a platform trailer with all four tires
off the ground. Avoid towing the vehicle with all four tires on the ground. In rare instances when
towing with all four tires on the ground is unavoidable, both the front and the rear propeller shafts
must be removed in order to prevent damage to the transfer case and/or transmission. Because
front and rear propeller shafts are matched to attaching components at assembly, refer to the
applicable Service Manual for procedures on propeller shaft removal/installation.
Towing Procedure
In order to properly dinghy tow the vehicle, use the following procedure:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2161
2. Place the AT in Park (P) or the MT in the lowest gear (1st).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle.
Caution:
Shifting the transfer case to Neutral can cause the vehicle to roll, even if the transmission is in park
(automatic) or 1st gear (manual), and may cause personal injury.
4. If equipped, place the transfer case shift lever in Neutral (N).
Note:
Use extra care whenever towing another vehicle. Do not exceed the towing vehicle's gross
combination weight (GCW) by adding the weight of the dinghy towed vehicle or vehicle damage
may result.
5. When the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle, release the parking brake.
6. The Owner's Manual specifies the appropriate ignition key position to ensure that the steering is
unlocked to allow the front wheels to follow the tow vehicle.
Rear Wheel Drive Light Duty Trucks
Important:
^ Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission through the opening created by the removal of
the slip yoke from the transmission if proper protection is not provided.
^ Verify that the transmission fluid is at the proper level before driving the truck.
Rear wheel drive vehicles, equipped with AT or MT, should NOT be dinghy towed. These
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. In order to properly tow
these vehicles, place the vehicle on a platform trailer with all four tires off the ground. Avoid towing
the vehicle with all four tires on the ground. In rare instances when it is unavoidable that a rear
wheel drive vehicle be dinghy towed, the propeller shaft to axle yoke orientation should be marked
and the propeller shaft removed. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for procedures on
propeller shaft removal/installation.
Transfer Case Identification
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2162
The identification tag on the rear half of the transfer case provides the information shown.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
LIFTING AND JACKING THE VEHICLE
Caution: To help avoid personal injury, always use jack stands when you are working on or under
any vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
Caution: To help avoid personal injury, when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for
the vehicle at the opposite end from which you are removing components. The additional support
will reduce the possibility of the vehicle falling off the hoist. When you are removing major
components from the vehicle while the vehicle is on a hoist, chain the vehicle frame to the hoist
pads at the same end from which you are removing the major components to prevent tip-off. If you
fail to follow these precautionary measures, vehicle damage, serious personal injury, or death may
result.
Notice: When you are jacking or lifting a vehicle at the frame side rails or other prescribed lift
points, be certain that the lift pads do not contact the catalytic converter, the brake pipes or the fuel
lines. If such contact occurs, vehicle damage or unsatisfactory vehicle performance may result.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading
should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating
temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications > Page 2171
Compression Check: Testing and Inspection
ENGINE COMPRESSION TEST
Perform the following steps in order to conduct a compression test for VIN 4: 1. Conduct the
following steps in order to check cylinder compression:
1.1. Engine should be at room temperature.
1.2. Disconnect wiring from the ignition module.
1.3. Remove the spark plugs.
1.4. Throttle body valve should be wide open.
1.5. Battery should be at or near full charge.
2. For each cylinder, crank engine through four compression strokes. 3. The lowest reading
cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest. 4. No cylinder reading should be less
than 689 kPa (100 psi).
IMPORTANT: The results of a compression test will fall into the following categories: ^
Normal-Compression builds up quickly and evenly to specified compression on each cylinder.
^ Piston Rings-Compression low on first stroke. Tends to build up on following strokes but does not
reach normal. Improves considerably with addition of oil.
^ Valves-Compression low on first stroke. Does not tend to build up on the following strokes. Does
not improve much with addition of oil. Use approximately three squirts from a plunger-type oiler.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Bearing: Specifications
Journal Diameter
...................................................................................................................................................
47.453 - 47.478 mm (1.868 - 1.869 inch) Journal Clearance
.................................................................................................................................................. 0.013
- 0.089 mm (0.0005 - 0.0035 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications > Camshaft Gear Bolt Torque
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Camshaft Gear Bolt Torque
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt .......................................................................................................................
................................................... 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications > Camshaft Gear Bolt Torque > Page 2180
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Fastener Tightening Specifications
Camshaft Sprocket ..............................................................................................................................
.................................................... 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Thrust Plate > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Thrust Plate: Specifications
Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolts ................................................................................................................
................................................ 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Engine Mechanical Specifications
Camshaft: Specifications Engine Mechanical Specifications
Camshaft Lobe Lift:
Inlet and Exhaust .................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 6.685 mm (0.263 inch)
Journal Diameter
...................................................................................................................................................
47.453 - 47.478 mm (1.868 - 1.869 inch) Journal Clearance
.................................................................................................................................................. 0.013
- 0.089 mm (0.0005 - 0.0035 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Engine Mechanical Specifications > Page 2188
Camshaft: Specifications Fastener Tightening Specifications
Camshaft Rear Cover Bolts .................................................................................................................
................................................ 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2189
Camshaft: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the engine assembly. 2. Place the engine on a stand. 3. Remove the drive belt. 4.
Remove the generator. 5. Remove the generator brackets. 6. Remove the power steering pump. 7.
Remove the drive belt tensioner. 8. Remove the coolant pump pulley. 9. Remove the engine oil and
the filter.
10. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley hub. 11. Remove the valve rocker arm
cover. 12. Remove the rocker arm and pushrod. 13. Remove the valve lifter. 14. Remove the
crankcase front cover. 15. Remove the following components.
15.1. Remove the cam sprocket.
15.2. Remove the timing chain.
15.3. Remove the tensioner.
16. Remove the oil pump drive.
17. Remove the thrust plate.
18. Remove the camshaft position sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2190
19. Remove the camshaft. Do not damage the camshaft bearings with the camshaft.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the camshaft lobes and bearings with GM E.O.S. P/N 1051396 or equivalent.
2. Install the camshaft with extreme care to avoid damage to the camshaft bearings.
3. Install the camshaft position sensor.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2191
4. Install the thrust plate.
^ Tighten the bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
5. Install the following components.
5.1. Install the tensioner.
5.2. Install the timing chain.
5.3. Install the sprockets.
6. Install the crankcase front cover. 7. Install the valve lifters in the same bores from which they
were removed. 8. Install the oil pump drive. 9. Install the rocker arm and pushrod.
10. Install the valve rocker arm cover. 11. Install the crankshaft pulley hub. 12. Install the coolant
pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley hub. 13. Install the drive belt tensioner. 14. Install the power
steering pump. 15. Install the generator. 16. Install the generator brackets. 17. Install the drive belt.
18. Install the engine assembly. 19. Install the oil filter. 20. Fill the engine with oil. 21. Fill the
cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Service and Repair
Lifter / Lash Adjuster: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the valve rocker arm cover. 2. Loosen the rocker arm nut. Position the rocker arm
aside. 3. Remove the pushrod.
4. Remove the engine lift bracket located at the rear of the engine.
5. Route the spark plug wires below the lower intake manifold. 6. Remove the cylinder head. Refer
to Cylinder Head Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2195
7. Remove the cylinder head gasket.
8. Remove the anti-rotation brackets.
IMPORTANT: Hydraulic Valve lifters do not require adjustment. Valve lifters must be kept in order
so they may be reinstalled in their original position.
9. Remove the valve lifters.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: If the valve lifters and anti-rotation brackets are not installed properly, the valve lifters, the
anti-rotation brackets, and the engine could be damaged.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2196
IMPORTANT: When installing new valve lifters, coat the lifters with camshaft assembly lube (GM
P/N 1052365) or equivalent.
1. Install the valve lifters in the lifter bores.
^ Align the flat sides (top) of the lifters with the flat sides of the anti-rotation brackets.
^ When properly aligned, the flat side of each lifter is aligned parallel to the anti-rotation bracket.
^ The roller at the bottom of each lifter is aligned parallel to the camshaft lobe.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the anti-rotation brackets on the valve lifters.
^ Tighten the anti-rotation bracket screws to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
3. Install the cylinder head gasket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2197
4. Install the cylinder head.
5. Install the lift bracket. 6. Install the lift bracket nut.
^ Tighten the nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
7. Route the spark plug wires up through the lower intake manifold.
8. Install the Pushrods. Ensure that the pushrods seat in the lifter.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2198
9. Position the rocker arms.
10. Install the rocker arm bolts.
^ Tighten the nuts to 25 Nm (19 ft. lbs.).
11. Install the valve rocker arm cover.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Specifications
Rocker Arm Assembly: Specifications
SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS
Rocker Arm Ratio ................................................................................................................................
......................................................................... 1.6
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Rocker Arm Bolts .................................................................................................................................
................................................ 25 Nm (19 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2202
Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the valve rocker arm cover.
IMPORTANT: Place the components in a rack in order of disassembly so they can be reinstalled at
the same location and with the same mating surface as when removed.
3. Remove the rocker arm bolt.
4. Remove the rocker arm.
5. Remove the pushrod.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Whenever new rocker arms and/or rocker arm balls are being installed, coat the
bearing surfaces of the rocker arms and the rocker arm balls with camshaft assembly lube GM P/N
1052365 or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2203
1. Install the pushrods, making sure that they seat in the lifters.
2. Install the rocker arms. 3. Apply Dri-Slide Moly lubricant GM P/N 1052948 or equivalent to the
threads of the bolts.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the rocker arm bolts.
^ Tighten the nuts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the valve rocker arm cover. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications
Connecting Rod Bearing: Specifications
Rod Bearing Journal Clearance
........................................................................................................................... 0.025 - 0.079 mm
(0.00098 - 0.0031 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Connecting Rod Dimensions
Connecting Rod: Specifications Connecting Rod Dimensions
Connecting Rod
Rod Side Clearance
............................................................................................................................................... 0.10 0.38 mm (0.0039 - 0.0149 inch)
Piston Pin
Diameter
........................................................................................................................................................
20.320 - 20.325 mm (0.8000 - 0.8002 inch) Clearance In Piston
......................................................................................................................................... 0.008 0.0016 mm (0.0003 - 0.0006 inch) Interference Fit In Rod
.................................................................................................................................... 0.025 - 0.045
mm (0.00098 - 0.0017 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Connecting Rod Dimensions > Page 2212
Connecting Rod: Specifications Connecting Rod Nut
Connecting Rod Cap Nuts ...................................................................................................................
..................................................... 52 Nm (38 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Coolant Drain Plug,
Cylinder Block > Component Information > Specifications
Coolant Drain Plug: Specifications
Water Jacket Drain Plug ......................................................................................................................
..................................................... 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications > Crankshaft Pulley/Gear Torque
Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Pulley/Gear Torque
Crankshaft Pulley Hub To Crankshaft Bolts
.............................................................................................................................................. 105 Nm
(77 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications > Crankshaft Pulley/Gear Torque > Page 2220
Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Gear/Hub Torque-Specifications
Crankshaft Pulley Hub To Crankshaft Bolts
.............................................................................................................................................. 105 Nm
(77 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications > Main Bearing Dimension/Clearance Specifications
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Main Bearing Dimension/Clearance Specifications
Main Bearing Clearance
........................................................................................................................................ 0.015 0.047 mm (0.0006 - 0.0019 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications > Main Bearing Dimension/Clearance Specifications > Page 2225
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Main Bearing Cap Torque
Install the crankshaft bearing caps to the engine block.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the crankshaft bearing cap bolts to the engine block.
^ Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts first to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
Before installing the rear crankshaft bearing cap, coat the face of the block where it mates to the
cap with sealer GM P/N 1052942.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications > Main Bearing Dimension/Clearance Specifications > Page 2226
Measure the crankshaft end play using the following procedure:
1. Firmly thrust the crankshaft rearward.
2. Firmly thrust the crankshaft forward.
3. This will align the crankshaft bearing and the crankshaft thrust surfaces.
^ Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Crankshaft: Specifications
Main Journal:
Diameter
........................................................................................................................................................
63.360 - 63.384 mm (2.4945 - 2.4954 inch) Taper ..............................................................................
............................................................................................................ 0.005 mm (0.00019 inch) Out
Of Round .............................................................................................................................................
............................... 0.005 mm (0.00019 inch)
Rod Bearing Journal:
Diameter
........................................................................................................................................................
50.758 - 50.784 mm (1.9983 - 1.9994 inch) Taper ..............................................................................
............................................................................................................ 0.005 mm (0.00019 inch) Out
Of Round .............................................................................................................................................
............................... 0.005 mm (0.00019 inch)
Rod Side Clearance
................................................................................................................................................... 0.10 0.38 mm (0.0039 - 0.0149 inch) Crankshaft End Play
............................................................................................................................................ 0.0511 0.01780 mm (0.002 - 0.007 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Balancer
<--> [Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley] > Component Information > Specifications
Crankshaft Balancer: Specifications
Crankshaft Pulley Hub To Crankshaft Bolts
.............................................................................................................................................. 105 Nm
(77 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Balancer
<--> [Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2233
Crankshaft Balancer: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J24420-B Crankshaft Pulley Hub Puller.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Raise the vehicle. 4. Remove
the right front wheel and tire assembly. 5. Remove the engine splash shield.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts. 7. Remove the crankshaft pulley hub bolt.
8. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Balancer
<--> [Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2234
9. Remove the crankshaft pulley hub using J24420-B
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J29113 Crankshaft Pulley Hub Installer.
1. Coat the front cover seal contact area with engine oil.
2. Apply RTV sealer GM P/N 1052917 or equivalents to the keyway in the crankshaft.
3. Install the crankshaft pulley hub using J29113
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Balancer
<--> [Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2235
4. Install the crankshaft pulley and bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the crankshaft pulley hub bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 105 Nm (77 ft. lbs.).
6. Install the engine splash shield. 7. Install the right front wheel and tire assembly. 8. Lower the
vehicle. 9. Install the drive belt.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Piston: Specifications
Piston Clearance
.................................................................................................................................................... 0.015
- 0.047 mm (0.0006 - 0.0018 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Specifications
Piston Pin: Specifications
Piston Pin:
Diameter
........................................................................................................................................................
20.320 - 20.325 mm (0.8000 - 0.8002 inch) Clearance In Piston
......................................................................................................................................... 0.008 0.0016 mm (0.0003 - 0.0006 inch) Interference Fin In Rod
................................................................................................................................... 0.025 - 0.045
mm (0.00098 - 0.0017 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Piston Ring: Specifications
Piston Ring Compression:
Top Groove Side Clearance
................................................................................................................................ 0.05 - 0.027 mm
(0.0019 - 0.0011 inch) Second Groove Side Clearance
........................................................................................................................... 0.05 - 0.027 mm
(0.0019 - 0.0011 inch) Top Ring Gap
............................................................................................................................................................
0.25 - 0.50 mm (0.010 - 0.020 inch) Second Ring Gap
...................................................................................................................................................... 0.25
- 0.50 mm (0.010 - 0.020 inch)
Piston Ring Oil:
Groove Clearance
................................................................................................................................................ 0.05 0.021 mm (0.0019 - 0.0082 inch) Gap .................................................................................................
........................................................................... 0.25 - 1.27 mm (0.010 - 0.050 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
This engine uses hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustment is necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release
> System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Procedure
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank pressure (do not tighten at this time). 2.
Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Start
and run the engine until the fuel supply remaining in the fuel pipes is consumed. Engage the starter
for 3.0 seconds in order to assure relief of
any remaining pressure.
6. Raise the vehicle. 7. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9.
Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly
> Component Information > Specifications
Rocker Arm Assembly: Specifications
SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS
Rocker Arm Ratio ................................................................................................................................
......................................................................... 1.6
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Rocker Arm Bolts .................................................................................................................................
................................................ 25 Nm (19 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 2255
Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the valve rocker arm cover.
IMPORTANT: Place the components in a rack in order of disassembly so they can be reinstalled at
the same location and with the same mating surface as when removed.
3. Remove the rocker arm bolt.
4. Remove the rocker arm.
5. Remove the pushrod.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Whenever new rocker arms and/or rocker arm balls are being installed, coat the
bearing surfaces of the rocker arms and the rocker arm balls with camshaft assembly lube GM P/N
1052365 or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 2256
1. Install the pushrods, making sure that they seat in the lifters.
2. Install the rocker arms. 3. Apply Dri-Slide Moly lubricant GM P/N 1052948 or equivalent to the
threads of the bolts.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the rocker arm bolts.
^ Tighten the nuts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the valve rocker arm cover. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Valve Cover: > 01-06-01-030A > May > 02 >
Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
Valve Cover: Customer Interest Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-030A
Date: May, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Higher than Expected Engine Oil Consumption (Replace Rocker Arm Cover)
Models: 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2001 Chevrolet and GMC
S Truck Models with 4 Cylinder 2.2L Engine (VINs 4, 5 - RPOs LN2, L43)
This bulletin is being revised to correct the warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-06-01-030 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some owners may comment on higher than expected engine oil consumption, therefore, having to
add oil between oil changes.
Important:
For the LN2 and L43 engines, oil consumption greater than 1 quart (0.9 L) within 2000 miles (3200
km) is considered excessive. The oil consumption rate should be verified prior to repairs, as per
Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-011 dated March, 2001.
Cause
Two potential causes of high oil consumption have been identified:
^ The RTV seal between the stamped aluminum PCV baffle plate and the underside of the engine
rocker cover may have deteriorated, allowing excessive oil mist to intrude into the PCV system.
^ The molded silicone intake manifold side gasket may have deteriorated at the PCV flow orifice,
allowing excessive PCV gases to flow into the intake manifold.
Correction
Follow the guidelines listed under Oil Consumption Diagnosis in the Engine Mechanical section of
the appropriate Service Manual, or in SI2000. If there are no other evident reasons for the concern
(such as leaks), replace the rocker cover assembly with the new design cover, P/N 12570563, and
replace the intake manifold side gasket with a new material gasket, P/N 12564499.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Valve Cover: > 01-06-01-030A > May > 02 >
Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption > Page 2265
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table shown.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Valve Cover: > 87-61-19 > Mar > 98 > Engine
- Increased Oil Consumption
Valve Cover: Customer Interest Engine - Increased Oil Consumption
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 87-61-19
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Increased Oil Consumption (Replace Valve Rocker Arm Cover)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 1998 Chevrolet and GMC S Models with
2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2) Built Prior to October 27, 1997
Condition
Some customers may comment about increased oil consumption and having to add oil between oil
changes.
Cause
On engines built before October 27, 1997, valve rocker arm cover baffle design may not be able to
control oil flow into the foul air side of the crankcase ventilation system under certain conditions. In
addition, during some high RPM operation of the engine, oil may be forced into the air cleaner duct
and preplenum assembly.
Correction
Install a new rocker arm cover GM P/N 24577253 using procedures outlined in the appropriate
Service Manual.
Service Procedure
1. If the owner of the vehicle expresses concern with oil consumption, review the oil consumption
rate and, if necessary, perform an oil consumption test on the vehicle. Perform an oil change, note
the mileage and allow the owner to drive the vehicle for a sufficient number of miles for the engine
to consume One Quart of oil. At the end of the test, review the oil consumption rate. Consumption
of more than 1 quart (0.946L) within 2000 miles (3200 km) should be addressed.
2. Review the engine broadcast code label. The broadcast code label is located on the intake
manifold on trucks and on the valve rocker arm cover on cars. Across the bottom of the label there
will be a sequence of letters and numbers starting with the letter "T" The first five numbers in the
sequence correspond to the engine build date starting with the calendar year; for example T 7 10
27 0001 = October 27, 1997. Any engine built on or after October 27, 1997, already has the revised
cover in place and this bulletin does not apply.
3. Inspect the valve rocker arm cover for an identification mark (See Figure 1). The mark will be
located on the rear (transmission) end of the valve rocker arm cover toward the intake manifold
side of the engine. If the vehicle already has a valve rocker arm cover with this identification mark,
DO NOT REPLACE THE VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER. If the vehicle has a concern with
increased oil consumption, review the conditions listed in Step 5 of this bulletin and proceed with
diagnostics in the engine section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Valve Cover: > 87-61-19 > Mar > 98 > Engine
- Increased Oil Consumption > Page 2270
Important:
Always check engine oil on a level surface, be sure that the engine has been run until it has
reached operating temperature and that the engine has been off for at least 5 minutes to allow for
proper oil drain-down. If oil consumption is greater than that listed above, proceed with Step 4.
4. Install a revised valve rocker arm cover GM P/N 24577253 using procedures outlined in the
Engine Mechanical Section of the appropriate Service Manual.
5. If the owner of the vehicle still has a concern with engine oil consumption after it has been
determined that the latest design cover is installed. Perform further inspection of engine
components for items that may cause increased oil consumption and repair as necessary. Possible
causes of increased oil consumption include the following conditions:
^ External oil leaks
^ Incorrect oil level or improper reading of oil level indicator
^ Improper oil viscosity
^ Continuous high speed driving and/or severe usage such as towing, or driving in mountainous
terrain
^ Blocked cylinder head, cylinder head gasket, or engine block oil drain holes
^ Valve guides and/or valve stem oil seals worn, or the seal omitted
^ Piston rings broken, improperly installed, missing, worn, or not seated properly
^ Pistons improperly installed or improperly fitted
Parts Information
Part Number Description
24577253 Cover, Valve Rocker Arm
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J0308 Cover and/or Gasket Rocker - Replace;
0.5 hr
J Car
J0308 Cover and/or Gasket Rocker - Replace;
0.8 hr
S Truck
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Cover: > 01-06-01-030A >
May > 02 > Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
Valve Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-030A
Date: May, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Higher than Expected Engine Oil Consumption (Replace Rocker Arm Cover)
Models: 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2001 Chevrolet and GMC
S Truck Models with 4 Cylinder 2.2L Engine (VINs 4, 5 - RPOs LN2, L43)
This bulletin is being revised to correct the warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-06-01-030 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some owners may comment on higher than expected engine oil consumption, therefore, having to
add oil between oil changes.
Important:
For the LN2 and L43 engines, oil consumption greater than 1 quart (0.9 L) within 2000 miles (3200
km) is considered excessive. The oil consumption rate should be verified prior to repairs, as per
Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-011 dated March, 2001.
Cause
Two potential causes of high oil consumption have been identified:
^ The RTV seal between the stamped aluminum PCV baffle plate and the underside of the engine
rocker cover may have deteriorated, allowing excessive oil mist to intrude into the PCV system.
^ The molded silicone intake manifold side gasket may have deteriorated at the PCV flow orifice,
allowing excessive PCV gases to flow into the intake manifold.
Correction
Follow the guidelines listed under Oil Consumption Diagnosis in the Engine Mechanical section of
the appropriate Service Manual, or in SI2000. If there are no other evident reasons for the concern
(such as leaks), replace the rocker cover assembly with the new design cover, P/N 12570563, and
replace the intake manifold side gasket with a new material gasket, P/N 12564499.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Cover: > 01-06-01-030A >
May > 02 > Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption > Page 2276
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table shown.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Cover: > 87-61-19 > Mar >
98 > Engine - Increased Oil Consumption
Valve Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Increased Oil Consumption
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 87-61-19
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Increased Oil Consumption (Replace Valve Rocker Arm Cover)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 1998 Chevrolet and GMC S Models with
2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2) Built Prior to October 27, 1997
Condition
Some customers may comment about increased oil consumption and having to add oil between oil
changes.
Cause
On engines built before October 27, 1997, valve rocker arm cover baffle design may not be able to
control oil flow into the foul air side of the crankcase ventilation system under certain conditions. In
addition, during some high RPM operation of the engine, oil may be forced into the air cleaner duct
and preplenum assembly.
Correction
Install a new rocker arm cover GM P/N 24577253 using procedures outlined in the appropriate
Service Manual.
Service Procedure
1. If the owner of the vehicle expresses concern with oil consumption, review the oil consumption
rate and, if necessary, perform an oil consumption test on the vehicle. Perform an oil change, note
the mileage and allow the owner to drive the vehicle for a sufficient number of miles for the engine
to consume One Quart of oil. At the end of the test, review the oil consumption rate. Consumption
of more than 1 quart (0.946L) within 2000 miles (3200 km) should be addressed.
2. Review the engine broadcast code label. The broadcast code label is located on the intake
manifold on trucks and on the valve rocker arm cover on cars. Across the bottom of the label there
will be a sequence of letters and numbers starting with the letter "T" The first five numbers in the
sequence correspond to the engine build date starting with the calendar year; for example T 7 10
27 0001 = October 27, 1997. Any engine built on or after October 27, 1997, already has the revised
cover in place and this bulletin does not apply.
3. Inspect the valve rocker arm cover for an identification mark (See Figure 1). The mark will be
located on the rear (transmission) end of the valve rocker arm cover toward the intake manifold
side of the engine. If the vehicle already has a valve rocker arm cover with this identification mark,
DO NOT REPLACE THE VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER. If the vehicle has a concern with
increased oil consumption, review the conditions listed in Step 5 of this bulletin and proceed with
diagnostics in the engine section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Cover: > 87-61-19 > Mar >
98 > Engine - Increased Oil Consumption > Page 2281
Important:
Always check engine oil on a level surface, be sure that the engine has been run until it has
reached operating temperature and that the engine has been off for at least 5 minutes to allow for
proper oil drain-down. If oil consumption is greater than that listed above, proceed with Step 4.
4. Install a revised valve rocker arm cover GM P/N 24577253 using procedures outlined in the
Engine Mechanical Section of the appropriate Service Manual.
5. If the owner of the vehicle still has a concern with engine oil consumption after it has been
determined that the latest design cover is installed. Perform further inspection of engine
components for items that may cause increased oil consumption and repair as necessary. Possible
causes of increased oil consumption include the following conditions:
^ External oil leaks
^ Incorrect oil level or improper reading of oil level indicator
^ Improper oil viscosity
^ Continuous high speed driving and/or severe usage such as towing, or driving in mountainous
terrain
^ Blocked cylinder head, cylinder head gasket, or engine block oil drain holes
^ Valve guides and/or valve stem oil seals worn, or the seal omitted
^ Piston rings broken, improperly installed, missing, worn, or not seated properly
^ Pistons improperly installed or improperly fitted
Parts Information
Part Number Description
24577253 Cover, Valve Rocker Arm
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J0308 Cover and/or Gasket Rocker - Replace;
0.5 hr
J Car
J0308 Cover and/or Gasket Rocker - Replace;
0.8 hr
S Truck
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2282
Valve Cover: Specifications
Rocker Arm Cover Bolts ......................................................................................................................
................................................. 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2283
Valve Cover: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Remove the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct (1).
3. Remove the resonator.
4. Remove the resonator bracket. 5. Remove the valve rocker arm cover bolts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2284
6. Remove the valve rocker arm cover. 7. Clean the sealing surface on the cylinder head and the
valve rocker arm cover.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the valve rocker arm cover.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the valve rocker arm cover bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
3. Install the resonator bracket. 4. Install the resonator nuts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2285
^ Tighten the nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the resonator.
6. Install the air cleaner outlet duct (1). 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Specifications
Valve Guide: Specifications
Valve Guide Inside Diameter
.................................................................................................................................... 7.000 - 7.020
mm (0.275 - 0.276 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Seat >
Component Information > Specifications
Valve Seat: Specifications
Valve Seat Width:
Inlet ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 2.80 mm (0.110 inch) Exhaust ................................................................
............................................................................................................................ 3.51 mm (0.138
inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Spring >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Valve Spring: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J23590 Spark Plug Port Adapter
- J5892-D Valve Spring Compressor
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the valve rocker arm cover.
NOTICE: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Do not remove the spark plugs from a hot
engine, allow it to cool first. Removing the spark plugs from a hot engine may cause spark plug
thread damage or cylinder head damage.
3. Remove the spark plug.
IMPORTANT: Whenever valve train components are removed for service, they should be kept in
order.
4. Remove the rocker arm and pushrod on the cylinder to be serviced. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm
and Push Rod Replacement. 5. Install J23590 in the spark plug port and apply compressed air to
hold the valves in place.
6. Compress the valve spring with J5892-D and remove the valve locks and cap. 7. Carefully
release the J5892-D.
8. Remove the spring, valve stem oil seal and the spring seat.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J23590 Spark Plug Port Adapter
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Spring >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2295
- J5892-D Valve Spring Compressor
1. Install the spring seat. 2. Install a new valve stem oil seal. 3. Set the valve spring and cap in
place.
4. Compress the valve spring with J5892-D.
IMPORTANT: Make sure that the valve locks seat properly in the upper groove of the valve stem.
Grease may be used to hold the locks in place while releasing the compressor tool.
5. Install the valve locks and carefully release J5892-D 6. Remove J23590
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
7. Install the spark plug.
^ Tighten the spark plug to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the rocker arm and the pushrod. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm and Push Rod Replacement.
9. Install the valve rocker arm cover.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Install the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve, Intake/Exhaust
> Component Information > Specifications
Valve: Specifications
Valve Face Angle ................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 45°
Valve Face Runout ..............................................................................................................................
............................................ 0.038 mm (0.0014 inch) Valve Margin:
Exhaust ................................................................................................................................................
...................... 2.13 - 1.87 mm (0.083 - 0.073 inch) Inlet .....................................................................
...................................................................................................... 1.49 - 1.23 mm (0.058 - 0.048
inch)
Valve Head Diameter:
Inlet ......................................................................................................................................................
................................................. 37 mm (1.45 inch) Exhaust ................................................................
................................................................................................................................. 44 mm (1.73
inch)
Valve Overall Length:
Inlet ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 134.23 mm (5.28 inch) Exhaust ................................................................
............................................................................................................................... 127 mm (5.00
inch)
Valve Stem To Guide Clearance:
Inlet ......................................................................................................................................................
............. 0.020 - 0.053 mm (0.0007 - 0.0020 inch) Exhaust
..............................................................................................................................................................
0.035 - 0.076 mm (0.0014 - 0.0029 inch)
Valve Tip To Retainer Groove Centerline
.................................................................................................................... 4.97 - 5.46 mm (0.195 0.214 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-06-01-008A
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Diagnosing Accessory Drive Belt / Serpentine Belt Noise and Availability and Use of
Kent-Moore EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add a model year and update the Tool Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-01-008 (Section 06 - Engine).
Background
Several aftermarket companies offer laser alignment tools for accessory drive systems that can be
very helpful in eliminating drive belt noise as a result of misaligned pulleys. Typically pricing ranges
from $160 - $200.
EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
The GM Tool program has now made available a competitive, simple to use and time-saving laser
tool to assist in achieving precise alignment of the drive belt pulleys. This optional tool removes the
guesswork from proper pulley alignment and may serve to reduce comebacks from:
- Drive Belt Noise
- Accelerated Drive Belt Wear
- Drive Belt Slippage
Instructions
The instructions below are specific only to the truck Gen IV V-8 family of engines. These
instructions are only for illustrative purposes to show how the tool may be used. Universal
instructions are included in the box with the Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt.
Caution
- Do not look directly into the beam projected from the laser.
- Use caution when shining the laser on highly polished or reflective surfaces. Laser safety glasses
help reduce laser beam glare in many circumstances.
- Always use laser safety glasses when using the laser. Laser safety glasses are not designed to
protect eyes from direct laser exposure.
1. Observe and mark the serpentine belt orientation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page
2304
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the accessory drive system.
3. Install the tool onto the power steering pulley. Position the legs of the tool into the outer grooves
of the pulley, farthest from the front of the
engine.
4. Install the retaining cord around the pulley and to the legs of the tool.
5. Put on the laser safety glasses provided with the tool. 6. Depress the switch on the rear of the
tool to activate the light beam. 7. Rotate the power steering pulley as required to project the light
beam onto the crankshaft balancer pulley grooves. 8. Inspect for proper power steering pulley
alignment.
- If the laser beam projects onto the second rib or raised area (1), the pulleys are aligned properly.
- If the laser beam projects more than one-quarter rib 0.9 mm (0.035 in) mis-alignment, adjust the
position of the power steering pulley as required.
- Refer to SI for Power Steering Pulley Removal and Installation procedures.
9. Install the serpentine belt to the accessory drive system in the original orientation.
10. Operate the vehicle and verify that the belt noise concern is no longer present.
Tool Information
Please visit the GM service tool website for pricing information or to place your order for this tool.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page
2305
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page
2306
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-01-013
Date: April 29, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Serpentine Belt Wear
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
All current GM vehicles designed and manufactured in North America were assembled with
serpentine belts that are made with an EPDM material and should last the life of the vehicle. It is
extremely rare to observe any cracks in EPDM belts and it is not expected that they will require
maintenance before 10 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi) of use.
Older style belts, which were manufactured with a chloroprene compound, may exhibit cracks
depending on age. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about
halfway through its usable life.
A good rule of thumb for chloroprene-based belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart,
ALL AROUND THE BELT, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be
considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be
considered as indicative that the belt needs changing.
Any belt that exhibits chunking should be replaced.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2307
Drive Belt: Specifications
SERPENTINE BELT
Belt tension is maintained by a spring tensioned idler pulley. No adjustment of the serpentine belt is
necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drive Belt Replacement
Drive Belt: Service and Repair Drive Belt Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
IMPORTANT: Do not exceed 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) on the tensioner center bolt.
2. Rotate the belt tensioner clockwise. Use a 15 mm wrench.
3. Slide the belt from the generator pulley. 4. Release the tensioner.
5. If the vehicle has A/C remove the drive belt from the A/C compressor pulley.
6. Remove the drive belt.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drive Belt Replacement > Page 2310
1. Route the drive belt. 2. If the vehicle has A/C route the drive belt around the A/C compressor
pulley. 3. Rotate the belt tensioner clockwise. Use a 15 mm wrench.
4. Slide the belt onto the generator pulley. 5. Release the tensioner.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drive Belt Replacement > Page 2311
Drive Belt: Service and Repair Pump Drive Belt
SERPENTINE BELT
Vehicles equipped with a 2.2L engine have the power steering pump driven by a serpentine belt.
The serpentine belt is self-adjusting within tensioner operating limits. For on-vehicle service of the
serpentine belt, refer to ENGINE.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications
Drive Belt Tensioner: Specifications
Serpentine Drive Belt Tensioner Bolt
....................................................................................................................................................... 50
Nm (37 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2315
Drive Belt Tensioner: Testing and Inspection
^ Tools Required J23600-B Belt Tension Gauge
1. Run the engine, with no accessories on, until the engine is warmed up. Shut the engine off and
read the belt tension using the J23600-B placed
halfway between the generator and the power steering pump.
2. Start the engine with the accessories off and allow the system to stabilize for 15 seconds. Turn
the engine off. Using a 15 mm socket, apply
clockwise force (tighten) to the tensioner pulley bolt. Release the force and immediately take a
tension reading without disturbing belt tensioner position.
3. Using the same wrench, apply a counterclockwise force to the tensioner pulley bolt and raise the
pulley to eliminate all tension. Slowly lower the
pulley to the belt and take a tensioner reading without disturbing the belt tensioner position.
4. Average the three readings. If the average of the three readings is not between 133 - 222 Nm
(30 - 50 lbs.) and the bolt is within the tensioners
operating range, replace the tensioner.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2316
Drive Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt
Replacement.
3. Remove the tensioner bolts. 4. Remove the tensioner.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the tensioner.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the tensioner bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolts to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Accessory Bracket > Component Information > Specifications
Engine Accessory Bracket: Specifications
Accessory Bracket Bolts ......................................................................................................................
..................................................... 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Engine Torque Strut > Component Information > Specifications
Engine Torque Strut: Specifications
Engine Mount Strut Bolt:
Step 1 ..................................................................................................................................................
................................................ 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.) Step 2 ..................................................................
......................................................................................................................... Turn An Additional
90°
Engine Mount Strut Bracket Bolts:
Rear .....................................................................................................................................................
................................................. 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.) Front .....................................................................
................................................................................................................................ 66 Nm (49 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Idler Pulley > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Idler Pulley: > 01-06-01-004 >
Jan > 01 > Idler Pulley - `Hoot/Whistle' Noise on Cold Start Up
Idler Pulley: Customer Interest Idler Pulley - `Hoot/Whistle' Noise on Cold Start Up
File In Section: 06 Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-004
Date: January, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Hoot/Whistling Noise At Start Up During Cold Ambient Temperature (Replace Idler Pulley
Assembly)
Models: 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2 L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO
LN2)
Condition
Some owners may comment on a loud "hoot" or whistling noise from the engine compartment
during start up at cold ambient temperature of 0°C (32°F) or less. The noise would be of short
duration, 5 seconds or less, and would not re-occur until the next cold ambient start up. This
characteristic makes the condition difficult to diagnose in the dealership environment.
Cause
This condition may be caused by the bearing in the idler pulley. This condition will not occur when
the engine is warm. A newly designed idler pulley is available from Service Parts Operations. The
new pulley has a bearing with improved cold temperature performance characteristics.
Correction
Replace the idler pulley assembly. Refer to Service Information for replacement procedure.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Idler Pulley > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Idler Pulley: >
01-06-01-004 > Jan > 01 > Idler Pulley - `Hoot/Whistle' Noise on Cold Start Up
Idler Pulley: All Technical Service Bulletins Idler Pulley - `Hoot/Whistle' Noise on Cold Start Up
File In Section: 06 Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-004
Date: January, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Hoot/Whistling Noise At Start Up During Cold Ambient Temperature (Replace Idler Pulley
Assembly)
Models: 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2 L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO
LN2)
Condition
Some owners may comment on a loud "hoot" or whistling noise from the engine compartment
during start up at cold ambient temperature of 0°C (32°F) or less. The noise would be of short
duration, 5 seconds or less, and would not re-occur until the next cold ambient start up. This
characteristic makes the condition difficult to diagnose in the dealership environment.
Cause
This condition may be caused by the bearing in the idler pulley. This condition will not occur when
the engine is warm. A newly designed idler pulley is available from Service Parts Operations. The
new pulley has a bearing with improved cold temperature performance characteristics.
Correction
Replace the idler pulley assembly. Refer to Service Information for replacement procedure.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Idler Pulley > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2337
Idler Pulley: Specifications
Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley
............................................................................................................................................................
50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Idler Pulley > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2338
Idler Pulley: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Remove the idler pulley
bolts.
4. Remove the idler pulley.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the idler pulley.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the idler pulley bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drive belt. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Pressure >
Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications
Oil Pressure:
At 65°C (150°F) ...................................................................................................................................
............................... 348 kPa (56 psi) @ 3000 rpm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Dip Stick - Dip
Stick Tube > Component Information > Service and Repair
Engine Oil Dip Stick - Dip Stick Tube: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the oil level indicator. 2. Remove the oil fill tube bolt. 3. Remove the oil fill tube.
4. Remove the oil fill tube seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the oil fill tube seal.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the oil fill tube and bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the oil level indicator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Drain Plug >
Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Drain Plug: Specifications
Engine Oil Drain Plug ..........................................................................................................................
...................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft lbs)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 11-00-90-001
Date: March 14, 2011
Subject: Global Information for GM dexos1(TM) and GM dexos2(TM) Engine Oil Specifications for
Spark Ignited and Diesel Engines, Available Licensed Brands, and Service Fill for Adding or
Complete Oil Change
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Excluding All Vehicles Equipped with
Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines
GM dexos 1(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 1(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
The dexos(TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos‹›(TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos‹›(TM)
specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
1(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Specification
Important General Motors dexos 1(TM) engine oil specification replaces the previous General
Motors specifications GM6094M, GM4718M and GM-LL-A-025 for most GM gasoline engines. The
oil specified for use in GM passenger cars and trucks, PRIOR to the 2011 model year remains
acceptable for those previous vehicles. However, dexos 1(TM) is backward compatible and can be
used in those older vehicles.
In North America, starting with the 2011 model year, GM introduced dexos 1(TM) certified engine
oil as a factory fill and service fill for gasoline engines. The reasons for the new engine oil
specification are as follows:
- To meet environmental goals such as increasing fuel efficiency and reducing engine emissions.
- To promote long engine life.
- To minimize the number of engine oil changes in order to help meet the goal of lessening the
industry's overall dependence on crude oil.
dexos 1(TM) is a GM-developed engine oil specification that has been designed to provide the
following benefits:
- Further improve fuel economy, to meet future corporate average fuel economy (CAFE)
requirements and fuel economy retention by allowing the oil to maintain its fuel economy benefits
throughout the life of the oil.
- More robust formulations for added engine protection and aeration performance.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 2353
- Support the GM Oil Life System, thereby minimizing the replacement of engine oil, before its life
has been depleted.
- Reduce the duplication of requirements for a large number of internal GM engine oil
specifications.
International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC)
GF-5 Standard
In addition to GM dexos 1(TM), a new International Lubricants Standardization and Approval
Committee (ILSAC) standard called GF-5, was introduced in October 2010.
- There will be a corresponding API category, called: SN Resource Conserving. The current GF-4
standard was put in place in 2004 and will become obsolete in October 2011. Similar to dexos
1(TM), the GF-5 standard will use a new fuel economy test, Sequence VID, which demands a
statistically significant increase in fuel economy versus the Sequence VIB test that was used for
GF-4.
- It is expected that all dexos 1(TM) approved oils will be capable of meeting the GF-5 standard.
However, not all GF-5 engine oils will be capable of meeting the dexos 1(TM) specification.
- Like dexos(TM), the new ILSAC GF-5 standard will call for more sophisticated additives. The API
will begin licensing marketers during October 2010, to produce and distribute GF-5 certified
products, which are expected to include SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils.
Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) Requirements Effect on Fuel Economy
Since CAFE standards were first introduced in 1974, the fuel economy of cars has more than
doubled, while the fuel economy of light trucks has increased by more than 50 percent. Proposed
CAFE standards call for a continuation of increased fuel economy in new cars and trucks. To meet
these future requirements, all aspects of vehicle operation are being looked at more critically than
ever before.
New technology being introduced in GM vehicles designed to increase vehicle efficiency and fuel
economy include direct injection, cam phasing, turbocharging and active fuel management (AFM).
The demands of these new technologies on engine oil also are taken into consideration when
determining new oil specifications. AFM for example can help to achieve improved fuel economy.
However alternately deactivating and activating the cylinders by not allowing the intake and
exhaust valves to open contributes to additional stress on the engine oil.
Another industry trend for meeting tough fuel economy mandates has been a shift toward lower
viscosity oils.
dexos 1(TM) will eventually be offered in several viscosity grades in accordance with engine needs:
SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-30.
Using the right viscosity grade oil is critical for proper engine performance. Always refer to the
Maintenance section of a vehicle Owner Manual for the proper viscosity grade for the engine being
serviced.
GM Oil Life System in Conjunction With dexos (TM) Supports Extended Oil Change Intervals
To help conserve oil while maintaining engine protection, many GM vehicles are equipped with the
GM Oil Life System. This system can provide oil change intervals that exceed the traditional 3,000
mile (4,830 km) recommendation.
The dexos (TM) specification, with its requirements for improved oil robustness, compliments the
GM Oil Life System by supporting extended oil change intervals over the lifetime of a vehicle.
If all GM customers with GM Oil Life System equipped vehicles would use the system as intended,
GM estimates that more than 100 million gallons of oil could be saved annually.
GM dexos 2(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 2(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 2354
The dexos (TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos (TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos
(TM)specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
2(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Specification
- dexos 2(TM) is approved and recommended by GM for use in Europe starting in model year 2010
vehicles, regardless of where the vehicle was manufactured.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European gasoline engines.
Important The Duramax(TM) diesel engine is the exception and requires lubricants meeting
specification CJ-4.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European light-duty diesel engines and
replaces GM-LL-B-025 and GM-LL-A-025.
- dexos 2(TM) protects diesel engines from harmful soot deposits and is designed with limits on
certain chemical components to prolong catalyst life and protect expensive emission reduction
systems. It is a robust oil, resisting degradation between oil changes and maintaining optimum
performance longer.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Oil Capacity Without Filter Change
...........................................................................................................................................................
3.473L (3.5 Qts.)
When Changing the Oil Filter, Up To An Additional 0.473 Liter Or One Half Quart Of Oil May Be
Needed.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 2357
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY
All Temperatures .................................................................................................................................
............................................ SAE 5W-30 (Preferred) Above 0°F (-18°C) ............................................
.............................................................................................................................................. SAE
10W-30
Using oils of any viscosity other than those viscosity's recommended could result in engine
damage. When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperatures the vehicle will be operated in
before the next oil change. Then, select the recommended oil viscosity.
The recommended oil viscosity for all vehicles when the temperature is above -18° C (0° F) is SAE
1OW-30.
Engine oil viscosity (thickness) has an effect on the fuel economy and the cold-weather operation
(starting and oil flow). Lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and
cold-weather performance. However, higher temperature weather condition require higher viscosity
engine oils for satisfactory lubrication. When the temperature will be very cold and never above 16°
C (60° F), SAE 5W-30 should be used in all models.
In areas of the world other than North America, it may be difficult to find oils that display the API
STARBURST symbol and that are labeled as meeting the GM4718M Specification.
If you cannot find API STARBURST displaying oils identified as meeting the GM4718M
requirements, look for oils that meet the API Service SJ and ACEA A3-96 requirements.
The recommended SAE engine oil viscosity is 5W-30, however, additional engine oil viscosities
meeting the API Service SJ and ACEA A3-96 requirements may be used in accordance with the
temperature ranges as shown in figure 3.
NOTE: SAE 20W-50 or oils of other viscosity rating or quality designations are NOT recommended
for use in any vehicles at any time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2358
Engine Oil: Service Precautions
Look for and use ONLY the engine oil that meet GM Specification. Oil that does not have the
correct specification designation can cause engine damage not covered by the warranty. Do NOT
use engine oil additives.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2359
Engine Oil: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and suitable support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting
and Jacking the Vehicle. 3. Remove the oil pan bolt.
4. Remove the oil filter.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the oil filter.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the oil pan drain bolt.
^ Tighten the oil pan drain bolt to 26 Nm (19 ft. lbs.).
Lower the vehicle.
3. Fill the engine with oil to the appropriate mark. 4. Install negative battery cable. 5. Start engine
and inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
Oil Filter: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-016B
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Information on Internal Engine Noise or Damage After Oil Filter Replacement
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being updated to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 07-06-01-016A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important Engine damage that is the result of an incorrect or improperly installed engine oil filter is
not a warrantable claim. The best way to avoid oil filter quality concerns is to purchase ACDelco(R)
oil filters directly from GMSPO.
Oil filter misapplication may cause abnormal engine noise or internal damage. Always utilize the
most recent parts information to ensure the correct part number filter is installed when replacing oil
filters. Do not rely on physical dimensions alone. Counterfeit copies of name brand parts have been
discovered in some aftermarket parts systems. Always ensure the parts you install are from a
trusted source. Improper oil filter installation may result in catastrophic engine damage.
Refer to the appropriate Service Information (SI) installation instructions when replacing any oil
filter and pay particular attention to procedures for proper cartridge filter element alignment. If the
diagnostics in SI (Engine Mechanical) lead to the oil filter as the cause of the internal engine noise
or damage, dealers should submit a field product report. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-00-89-002I (Information for Dealers on How to Submit a Field Product Report).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2364
Oil Filter: Specifications
Oil Filter ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2365
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2366
Oil Filter: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and suitable support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting
and Jacking the Vehicle. 3. Remove the oil pan bolt.
4. Remove the oil filter.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the oil filter.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the oil pan drain bolt.
^ Tighten the oil pan drain bolt to 26 Nm (19 ft. lbs.).
Lower the vehicle.
3. Fill the engine with oil to the appropriate mark. 4. Install negative battery cable. 5. Start engine
and inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter Adapter >
Component Information > Specifications
Oil Filter Adapter: Specifications
Oil Filter Adapter ..................................................................................................................................
................................................... 35 Nm (26 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Oil Pan: Specifications
Oil Pan .................................................................................................................................................
................................................. 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2373
Oil Pan: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the
Vehicle. 3. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly. 4. Remove the right engine splash
shield.
5. Drain the crankcase. 6. Remove the starter bracket at the block. 7. Remove the starter and lay it
aside. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement. 8. Remove the transmission converter cover or the
flywheel housing cover. 9. Remove the engine mount strut bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Strut
Bracket Replacement.
10. Remove the oil pan bolts. 11. Remove the oil pan nuts.
12. Remove the oil pan. 13. Clean the sealing surfaces on the pan, cylinder case and front cover.
Make sure that the old RTV is removed from the blind attaching holes.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2374
1. Place a 2-mm diameter bead of GM P/N 12346286 Loctite 5900 or equivalent to the oil pan
sealing surface, except at the rear seal mounting
surface.
2. Using a new oil pan rear seal, apply a thin coat of GM P/N 12346286 Loctite 5900 or equivalent
on the ends down to the ears.
3. Install the oil pan.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the oil pan bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
5. Install the oil pan nuts.
^ Tighten the nuts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
6. Install the engine mount strut bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Bracket Replacement 7.
Install the starter. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical. 8. Install the
transmission converter cover or flywheel housing cover. 9. Install the right engine splash shield.
10. Install the right front tire and wheel assembly. 11. Lower the vehicle. 12. Fill the crankcase with
engine oil. 13. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 2378
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 2379
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sensor: Locations
At the rear center of the engine
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 2383
Oil Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the engine oil pressure
sensor (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor (1). 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Lower the
vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pump Cover >
Component Information > Specifications
Oil Pump Cover: Specifications
Oil Pump Cover Bolts ..........................................................................................................................
................................................. 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pump, Engine > Engine
Oil Pressure > Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications
Oil Pressure:
At 65°C (150°F) ...................................................................................................................................
............................... 348 kPa (56 psi) @ 3000 rpm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement
Intake Manifold: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-06-01-026C
Date: February 03, 2010
Subject: Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement After Severe Internal Engine Damage
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-01-026B (Section 06 - Engine).
When replacing an engine due to internal damage, extreme care should be taken when transferring
the intake manifold to the new Goodwrench service engine long block. Internal damage may result
in the potential discharge of internal engine component debris in the intake manifold via broken
pistons and/or bent, broken, or missing intake valves. After removing the intake manifold from the
engine, the technician should carefully inspect all of the cylinder head intake ports to see if the
valve heads are still present and not bent. Usually when the valve heads are missing or sufficiently
bent, internal engine component debris will be present to varying degrees in the intake port of the
cylinder head. If this debris is present in any of the cylinder head intake ports, the intake manifold
should be replaced. This replacement is required due to the complex inlet runner and plenum
configuration of most of the intake manifolds, making thorough and complete component cleaning
difficult and nearly impossible to verify complete removal of debris. Re-installation of an intake
manifold removed from an engine with deposits of internal engine component debris may result in
the ingestion of any remaining debris into the new Goodwrench service engine. This may cause
damage or potential failure of the new service engine.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Intake Manifold Torque and Sequence
Intake Manifold: Specifications Intake Manifold Torque and Sequence
Tighten the bolts in sequence to 24 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
Tighten the throttle body to intake manifold bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Intake Manifold Torque and Sequence > Page 2397
Intake Manifold: Specifications
Attaching Bolts 10 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2398
Intake Manifold: Diagrams
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2399
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2400
Intake Manifold: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the air cleaner inlet duct (1).
4. Remove the resonator.
5. Remove the resonator bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2401
6. Remove the following cables: 9 The accelerator (2)-The cruise control (1) 7. Disconnect the
vacuum hoses at the throttle body.
8. Remove the MAP sensor connector.
9. Remove the TP sensor connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2402
10. Remove the IAC connector.
11. Remove the two bolts attaching the accelerator bracket.
12. Remove the throttle body. 13. Remove the fuel feed.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2403
14. Remove the fuel inlet pipe retainers. 15. Remove the intake manifold attaching nuts and the
bolts.
16. Remove the intake manifold from the engine. 17. Clean the mating surfaces on the intake
manifold and the cylinder head. 18. Inspect the manifold for cracks, broken flanges, and gasket
surface damage.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the intake manifold assembly. 2. Install the intake manifold to cylinder head bolts and the
nuts.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2404
3. Install the fuel inlet pipe retainers.
^ Tighten the bolts to 24 Nm (18 inch lbs.).
4. Install the throttle body. 5. Connect the fuel feed and return quick-connect fittings.
6. Install the two bolts attaching the accelerator cable bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2405
7. Connect the MAP connector
8. Connect the TP sensor connector
9. Connect the IAC connector
10. Connect the vacuum hoses at the upper throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2406
11. Connect the following cables:
^ The accelerator (2).
^ The cruise control (1).
12. Install the resonator bracket.
13. Install the resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2407
14. Install the air inlet duct assembly (1). 15. Install the fuel pump fuse. Inspect the fuel pump fuse
for leaks. 16. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Service and Repair
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the Automatic Transmission. 2. Remove the flywheel. 3. Confirm the rear oil seal leak.
IMPORTANT: Do not damage the crankshaft seal surface with the pry tool.
4. Remove the seal by inserting a screwdriver or similar tool in through the dust lip. Pry out the seal
by moving the tool around the seal until the seal
is removed.
5. Inspect the bore for nicks or burrs. Correct the bores as required. 6. Inspect the crankshaft for
nicks or burrs on seal contact surface. Repair or replace the crankshaft as required.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J34686 Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Installer
1. Lubricate the seal bore to the seal surface with engine oil.
2. Install the new oil seal. Use the J34686 3. Slide the new seal over the mandrel until the dust lip
bottoms squarely against the tool collar.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Align the dowel pin of the tool with the dowel pin hole in the crankshaft. Attach the tool to the
crankshaft.
^ Tighten the attaching screws to 3 - 7 Nm (27 - 62 inch lbs.).
5. Tighten the T-handle of the tool to push the seal into the bore. Continue until the tool collar is
flush against the block. 6. Loosen the T-handle completely. 7. Remove the attaching screws and
the tool.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2412
8. Ensure that the seal is seated squarely in the bore. 9. Install the flywheel.
10. Install the Automatic Transmission. 11. Start and run the engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Service and Repair
Front Crankshaft Seal: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley hub. Refer to Crankshaft Balancer and
Hub Replacement
2. Remove the oil seal by prying it out with a large screwdriver. Do no damage the seal seat or the
crankshaft.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J35468 Seal Centering Tool.
1. Install the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley hub. Refer to Crankshaft Balancer and
Hub Replacement.
2. Install the front cover oil seal using J35468.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Intake Manifold
Gasket > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Intake Manifold Gasket: >
01-06-01-030A > May > 02 > Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
Intake Manifold Gasket: Customer Interest Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-030A
Date: May, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Higher than Expected Engine Oil Consumption (Replace Rocker Arm Cover)
Models: 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2001 Chevrolet and GMC
S Truck Models with 4 Cylinder 2.2L Engine (VINs 4, 5 - RPOs LN2, L43)
This bulletin is being revised to correct the warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-06-01-030 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some owners may comment on higher than expected engine oil consumption, therefore, having to
add oil between oil changes.
Important:
For the LN2 and L43 engines, oil consumption greater than 1 quart (0.9 L) within 2000 miles (3200
km) is considered excessive. The oil consumption rate should be verified prior to repairs, as per
Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-011 dated March, 2001.
Cause
Two potential causes of high oil consumption have been identified:
^ The RTV seal between the stamped aluminum PCV baffle plate and the underside of the engine
rocker cover may have deteriorated, allowing excessive oil mist to intrude into the PCV system.
^ The molded silicone intake manifold side gasket may have deteriorated at the PCV flow orifice,
allowing excessive PCV gases to flow into the intake manifold.
Correction
Follow the guidelines listed under Oil Consumption Diagnosis in the Engine Mechanical section of
the appropriate Service Manual, or in SI2000. If there are no other evident reasons for the concern
(such as leaks), replace the rocker cover assembly with the new design cover, P/N 12570563, and
replace the intake manifold side gasket with a new material gasket, P/N 12564499.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Intake Manifold
Gasket > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Intake Manifold Gasket: >
01-06-01-030A > May > 02 > Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption > Page 2424
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table shown.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Intake Manifold
Gasket > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Intake Manifold Gasket:
> 01-06-01-030A > May > 02 > Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
Intake Manifold Gasket: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-030A
Date: May, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Higher than Expected Engine Oil Consumption (Replace Rocker Arm Cover)
Models: 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2001 Chevrolet and GMC
S Truck Models with 4 Cylinder 2.2L Engine (VINs 4, 5 - RPOs LN2, L43)
This bulletin is being revised to correct the warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-06-01-030 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some owners may comment on higher than expected engine oil consumption, therefore, having to
add oil between oil changes.
Important:
For the LN2 and L43 engines, oil consumption greater than 1 quart (0.9 L) within 2000 miles (3200
km) is considered excessive. The oil consumption rate should be verified prior to repairs, as per
Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-011 dated March, 2001.
Cause
Two potential causes of high oil consumption have been identified:
^ The RTV seal between the stamped aluminum PCV baffle plate and the underside of the engine
rocker cover may have deteriorated, allowing excessive oil mist to intrude into the PCV system.
^ The molded silicone intake manifold side gasket may have deteriorated at the PCV flow orifice,
allowing excessive PCV gases to flow into the intake manifold.
Correction
Follow the guidelines listed under Oil Consumption Diagnosis in the Engine Mechanical section of
the appropriate Service Manual, or in SI2000. If there are no other evident reasons for the concern
(such as leaks), replace the rocker cover assembly with the new design cover, P/N 12570563, and
replace the intake manifold side gasket with a new material gasket, P/N 12564499.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Intake Manifold
Gasket > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Intake Manifold Gasket:
> 01-06-01-030A > May > 02 > Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption > Page 2430
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table shown.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sender > Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sender > Component Information > Locations > Page 2435
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sender > Component Information > Locations > Page 2436
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sensor: Locations
At the rear center of the engine
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2440
Oil Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the engine oil pressure
sensor (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor (1). 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Lower the
vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Specifications > Camshaft Gear Bolt Torque
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Camshaft Gear Bolt Torque
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt .......................................................................................................................
................................................... 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Specifications > Camshaft Gear Bolt Torque > Page 2446
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Fastener Tightening Specifications
Camshaft Sprocket ..............................................................................................................................
.................................................... 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket
> Component Information > Specifications > Crankshaft Pulley/Gear Torque
Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Pulley/Gear Torque
Crankshaft Pulley Hub To Crankshaft Bolts
.............................................................................................................................................. 105 Nm
(77 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket
> Component Information > Specifications > Crankshaft Pulley/Gear Torque > Page 2451
Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Gear/Hub Torque-Specifications
Crankshaft Pulley Hub To Crankshaft Bolts
.............................................................................................................................................. 105 Nm
(77 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Interference Engine
Timing Chain: Service and Repair Interference Engine
The OE manufacture does not specify if this engine is an interference engine or not.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Interference Engine > Page 2456
Timing Chain: Service and Repair Timing Chain and Sprocket
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J22888-20 Crankshaft Sprocket Puller
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the crankcase front cover. Refer to Engine
Front Cover Replacement.
3. Align the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket timing marks with the alignment tabs on the
timing chain tensioner.
IMPORTANT: Before removing the timing chain, measure the distance between the hole in the
bracket and the unworn surface of the timing chain tensioner shoe.
If the distance between the hole and the unworn surface of the timing chain tensioner shoe is more
than 8 mm (0.314 inch), replace the tensioner, timing chain, and both sprockets.
4. Remove the timing chain tensioner bolts. 5. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Interference Engine > Page 2457
6. Remove the camshaft sprocket and timing chain. 7. Remove the Torx (R) & bolt and the
tensioner assembly. 8. Remove the crankshaft sprocket using J22888-20
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J5590 Crankshaft Sprocket Installer
1. Install the crankshaft sprocket using J5590.
Make sure that the crankshaft sprocket is seated against the crankshaft.
2. Install the timing chain and install the timing chain tensioner.
3. Compress the timing chain tensioner spring.
4. Insert a cotter pin or a nail into the hole in the tensioner to retain the timing chain tensioner shoe.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Interference Engine > Page 2458
5. Install the timing chain tensioner. Do not tighten the timing chain tensioner bolts. 6. Align the
crankshaft timing marks with the tab on the timing chain tensioner. 7. Align the camshaft timing
mark with the tab on the timing chain tensioner.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
8. Install the camshaft sprocket and install the timing chain.
^ Tighten the timing chain tensioner bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
^ Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.).
9. Remove the cotter pin or nail from the hole in the timing chain tensioner.
10. Install the crankcase front cover. Refer to Engine Front Cover Replacement. 11. Connect the
negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain Tensioner >
Component Information > Specifications
Timing Chain Tensioner: Specifications
Timing Chain Tensioner Bolts .............................................................................................................
..................................................... 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Specifications
Timing Cover: Specifications
Crankcase Front Cover Bolts ..............................................................................................................
.................................................. 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2465
Timing Cover: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J2846.7-360 Engine Support Fixture
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Remove the drive belt
tensioner. 4. Install the J28467-360 Engine Support Fixture. 5. Remove the engine mount
assembly. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement. 6. Remove the generator rear brace. 7. Remove
the generator. 8. Remove the power steering pump. Position the pump aside. Keep the lines
attached. 9. Raise and support the vehicle.
10. Remove the oil pan. 11. Remove the crankshaft pulley and hub. 12. Remove the engine front
cover bolts.
13. Remove the engine front cover. If necessary, carefully use a rubber mallet to loosen the cover.
14. Clean the sealing surface on the engine block. 15. Clean the sealing surface on the engine
front cover.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the engine front cover gasket.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the engine front cover and the bolts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2466
^ Tighten the bolts to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
3. Install the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley hub. 4. Install the oil pan. Refer to Oil Pan
Replacement. 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Install the power steering pump. 7. Install the generator. 8.
Install the generator rear brace. 9. Install the engine mount assembly.
10. Remove the J28467-360 Engine Support Fixture. 11. Install the drive belt tensioner. 12. Install
the drive belt. 13. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Pressure
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel System Pressure
Fuel System Pressure
Key On Engine Off 41-47 psi
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Pressure > Page 2472
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Volume
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2473
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2474
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2475
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2476
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2477
Diagnostic Chart
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will turn ON the
in-tank fuel pump. The in-tank fuel pump will remain ON as long as the engine is cranking or
running and the PCM is receiving reference pulses. If there are no reference pulses, the PCM will
turn OFF the in-tank fuel pump for 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON or for 2 seconds
after the engine stops running. The in-tank fuel pump is an electric pump within an integral
reservoir. The in-tank fuel pump supplies fuel through an in-line fuel filter to the fuel rail assembly.
The fuel pump is designed to provide fuel at a pressure above the pressure that is needed by the
fuel injectors. A fuel pressure regulator, attached to the fuel rail assembly, keeps the fuel available
to the fuel injectors at a regulated pressure. The unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank by a
separate fuel return pipe.
TEST DESCRIPTION
The number(s) below refer(s) to the step number(s) on the Diagnostic Table.
2. In order to relieve the fuel pressure, go to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure When the ignition is
ON and the fuel pump is running, the fuel pressure
indicated by the fuel pressure gauge should be 284-325 kPa (41-47 psi).
3. A fuel system that drops more than 5 psi in 10 minutes has a leak in one or more of the following
areas:
^ The fuel pump check valve
^ The fuel pump flex pipe
^ The valve or valve seat within the fuel pressure regulator
^ The fuel injector(s)
5. Fuel pressure that drops-off during acceleration, cruise or hard cornering may cause a lean
condition. A lean condition can cause a loss of power,
surging, or a misfire. You can use a scan tool in order to diagnose a lean condition. If an extremely
lean condition occurs, the oxygen sensors will stop toggling. The oxygen sensor output voltage(s)
will drop below 500 mV. Also, the fuel injector pulse width will increase.
8. When the engine is idling, the manifold pressure is low (high vacuum). This low pressure (high
vacuum) is applied to the fuel pressure regulator
diaphragm. The low pressure (high vacuum) will offset the pressure being applied to the fuel
pressure regulator diaphragm by the spring inside of
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2478
the fuel pressure regulator. This will cause lower fuel pressure. The fuel pressure at idle will vary
slightly as the barometric pressure changes, but the fuel pressure at idle should always be less
than the fuel pressure noted in Step 2 with the engine turned OFF.
12. A rich condition may result from the fuel pressure being above 325 kPa (47 psi). A rich
condition can cause a DTC P0132 or a DTC P0172 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with rich conditions can include hard starting (followed by
black smoke) and a strong sulfur smell in the exhaust.
13. This test determines if the high fuel pressure is due to a restricted fuel return pipe or if the high
fuel pressure is due to a malfunctioning fuel
pressure regulator.
15. Fuel pressure being below 284 kPa (41 psi) can cause a lean condition. A lean condition may
cause a DTC P0131 or a DTC P0171 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with lean conditions can include hard starting (when the
engine is cold), a hesitation, poor driveability, a lack of power, surging, and misfiring.
16. Restricting the fuel flow causes the fuel pressure to rise above the regulated fuel pressure.
Using a scan tool in order to pressurize the system, the
fuel pressure should rise above 325 kPa (47 psi) as the gauge outlet hose is pinched.
22. Check the spark plug that is associated with a particular fuel injector for fouling or saturation in
order to determine if that particular fuel injector is
leaking.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 2494
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page
2500
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2501
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the upper air cleaner screws. 2. Remove the upper air cleaner cover (1). 3. Remove the
air cleaner filter (2) from lower air cleaner housing (3). 4. Inspect the air cleaner filter for dust, dirt
and water. 5. Replace if required. Refer to Maintenance.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the air cleaner filter (2) into the lower air cleaner housing (3). 2. Install the upper air
cleaner cover (1) to lower air cleaner housing. 3. Install the upper air cleaner screws. Tighten the
upper air cleaner cover screws to 3 Nm (26 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Procedure
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank pressure (do not tighten at this time). 2.
Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Start
and run the engine until the fuel supply remaining in the fuel pipes is consumed. Engage the starter
for 3.0 seconds in order to assure relief of
any remaining pressure.
6. Raise the vehicle. 7. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9.
Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing
Order > Component Information > Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order: Specifications Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order .........................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 1-3-4-2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Timing > Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Number One Cylinder: Locations Number 1 Cylinder Location
NUMBER ONE CYLINDER LOCATION
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Cable > Component Information > Locations
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug Gap ...................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 1.01 mm (.040 in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap > Page 2525
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Torque
Spark Plug Torque ...............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2526
Spark Plug: Application and ID
AC Type ...............................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 41-928
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2527
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Worn or dirty plugs may give satisfactory operation at idling speed, but under operating conditions
they frequently fail. Faulty plugs are indicated in a number of ways: poor fuel economy, power loss,
loss of speed, hard starting and general poor engine performance.
Spark plugs may also fail due to carbon fouling, excessive gap, or a broken insulator.
Fouled plugs Fouled plugs are identified by black carbon deposits. The black deposits are usually
the result of slow-speed driving and short runs where sufficient engine operating temperature is
seldom reached. Worn pistons, rings, faulty ignition, over-rich air/fuel mixture and spark plugs
which are too cold will also result in carbon deposits.
Excessive gap Excessive gap wear, on plugs of low mileage, usually indicates the engine is
operating at high speeds or loads that are consistently greater than normal or that a plug which is
too hot is being used. Electrode wear may also be the result of plug overheating, caused by
combustion gases leaking past the threads, due to insufficient spark plug torque or too much spark
plug torque. An excessively lean air/fuel mixture will also result in excessive electrode wear.
Broken insulator Broken insulators are usually the result of improper installation or carelessness
when regapping the plug. Broken upper insulators usually result from a poor fitting wrench or an
outside impact. The cracked insulator may not show up right away, but will as soon as oil or
moisture penetrates the crack. The crack is usually just below the crimped part of the shell and
may not be visible.
Broken lower insulators usually result from carelessness when regapping and generally are visible.
This type of break may result from the plug operating too "hot," which may happen in periods of
high-speed operation or under heavy loads. When regapping a spark plug, always make the gap
adjustment by bending the ground (side) electrode. Spark plugs with broken insulators should
always be replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Service and Repair > Conventional Ignition
Spark Plug: Service and Repair Conventional Ignition
Description
Description
Removal Procedure
1. Turn the ignition key OFF. 2. Remove foreign material from around the spark plug holes. 3.
Remove the wires from the plugs. 4. Remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket.
Installation Procedure
1. Adjust the spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gauge. While gapping the plug
be sure to keep the platinum pads aligned to
ensure maximum plug life.
2 Install new plugs and tighten properly.
3. Reapply dielectric lubricant to the insulator boot. Tighten to 18 Nm (13 lb ft). 4. Reattach the
boots to the plugs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Service and Repair > Conventional Ignition > Page 2530
Spark Plug: Service and Repair Integrated Direct Ignition
Removal Procedure
Tools Required
J 36011 Spark Plug Connector Assembly Removal Tool
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the integrated Direct Ignition (IDI) assembly 4
bolts and connector. 3. Remove by pulling straight up on the housing. 4. Use the J 36011 to
remove connector assembly(s) is stuck to the spark plugs. Use the tools by first twisting then
pulling up on the connector
assembly.
5. Remove the debris from the area around the spark plugs. 6. Remove the spark plugs using a
spark plug socket.
Installation Procedure
1. Adjust the spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gauge. While gapping the plug
be sure to keep the platinum pads aligned to
ensure maximum plug life.
2. Hand start the spark plugs into the cylinder head and tighten. Tighten the plugs to 18 Nm (13 lb
ft). 3. Reinstall onto the IDI any spark plug boot connector assembly that stuck to a spark plug.
^ Check to be sure the spring terminal is inside the boot.
^ Reapply dielectric lubricant to the insulator boot.
4. Locate the IDI assembly over the spark plugs and push straight down. 5. Remove any loose
lubricant that is present on the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts.
IMPORTANT: Hand start the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts.
6. Apply threadlocker onto the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts. Tighten the bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb
ft). 7. Install the electrical connector. 8. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Compression Check > System Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading
should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating
temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Compression Check > System Information > Specifications > Page 2534
Compression Check: Testing and Inspection
ENGINE COMPRESSION TEST
Perform the following steps in order to conduct a compression test for VIN 4: 1. Conduct the
following steps in order to check cylinder compression:
1.1. Engine should be at room temperature.
1.2. Disconnect wiring from the ignition module.
1.3. Remove the spark plugs.
1.4. Throttle body valve should be wide open.
1.5. Battery should be at or near full charge.
2. For each cylinder, crank engine through four compression strokes. 3. The lowest reading
cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest. 4. No cylinder reading should be less
than 689 kPa (100 psi).
IMPORTANT: The results of a compression test will fall into the following categories: ^
Normal-Compression builds up quickly and evenly to specified compression on each cylinder.
^ Piston Rings-Compression low on first stroke. Tends to build up on following strokes but does not
reach normal. Improves considerably with addition of oil.
^ Valves-Compression low on first stroke. Does not tend to build up on the following strokes. Does
not improve much with addition of oil. Use approximately three squirts from a plunger-type oiler.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
This engine uses hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustment is necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Fastener Tightening Specifications
Water Pump: Specifications Fastener Tightening Specifications
Water Pump .........................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) Water Pump Inlet .............................................
......................................................................................................................................... 25 Nm (18
ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Fastener Tightening Specifications > Page 2542
Water Pump: Specifications Water Pump Pulley
Water Pump Pulley Bolts .....................................................................................................................
..................................................... 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2543
Water Pump: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL(R) coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the cooling system. Recover the coolant. Refer
to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Loosen the attaching bolts of the coolant pump pulley. 4.
Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. 5. Remove the attaching bolts
of the coolant pump pulley.
6. Remove the coolant pump pulley. 7. Remove the surge tank hose. 8. Remove the attaching bolts
of the coolant pump.
9. Remove the coolant pump and the gasket.
10. Completely clean the sealing surfaces of the coolant pump and the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2544
1. Using a new gasket, install the coolant pump and the attaching bolts. Coat the bolt threads with
pipe sealant GM P/N 12346004, or equivalent.
^ Tighten the coolant pump bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the coolant pump pulley and the bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. 4. Refill the cooling system.
Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Start the
engine. After the engine reaches normal operating temperature, inspect for coolant leaks. 7.
Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-002B
Date: January 18, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: DEX-COOL(R) Coolant - New Leak Detection Dye J 46366 - Replaces J 29545-6
Models: 1996-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light/Medium Duty Trucks* (including Saturn)
1997-2008 Isuzu T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models Built in Janesville and Flint 1999-2008
Isuzu N-Series Medium Duty Commercial Models with 5.7L or 6.0L Gas Engine
2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008 HUMMER H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
*EXCLUDING 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo, Epica, Optra, Vivant and Pontiac Matiz, Wave
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-002A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Leak detection dye P/N 12378563 (J 29545-6) (in Canada P/N 88900915) may cause
DEX-COOL(R) coolant to appear green in a black vessel making it appear to be conventional
(green) coolant. This may cause a technician to add conventional coolant to a low DEX-COOL(R)
system thus contaminating it. The green DEX-COOL(R) appearance is caused by the color of the
leak detection dye which alters the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
A new leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (J 46366) (in Canada P/N 89022220) has been released
that does not alter the appearance of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant. When adding the new leak
detection dye the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant will not change. For detecting leaks on any
system that uses DEX-COOL(R) leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (in Canada P/N 89022220)
should be used. The new leak detection dye can be used with both conventional and
DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2550
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - Coolant Recycling Information
Bulletin No.: 00-06-02-006D
Date: August 15, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Engine Coolant Recycling and Warranty Information
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER Vehicles 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
Please address this bulletin to the Warranty Claims Administrator and the Service Manager.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to adjust the title and Include Warranty Information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Coolant Reimbursement Policy
General Motors supports the use of recycled engine coolant for warranty repairs/service, providing
a GM approved engine coolant recycling system is used. Recycled coolant will be reimbursed at
the GMSPO dealer price for new coolant plus the appropriate mark-up. When coolant replacement
is required during a warranty repair, it is crucial that only the relative amount of engine coolant
concentrate be charged, not the total diluted volume. In other words: if you are using two gallons of
pre-diluted (50:50) recycled engine coolant to service a vehicle, you may request reimbursement
for one gallon of GM Goodwrench engine coolant concentrate at the dealer price plus the
appropriate warranty parts handling allowance.
Licensed Approved DEX-COOL(R) Providers
Important:
USE OF NON-APPROVED VIRGIN OR RECYCLED DEX-COOL(R) OR DEVIATIONS IN THE
FORM OF ALTERNATE CHEMICALS OR ALTERATION OF EQUIPMENT, WILL VOID THE GM
ENDORSEMENT, MAY DEGRADE COOLANT SYSTEM INTEGRITY AND PLACE THE
COOLING SYSTEM WARRANTY UNDER JEOPARDY.
Shown in Table 1 are the only current licensed and approved providers of DEX-COOL(R). Products
that are advertised as "COMPATIBLE" or "RECOMMENDED" for use with DEX-COOL(R) have not
been tested or approved by General Motors. Non-approved coolants may degrade the
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2551
coolant system integrity and will no longer be considered a 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant.
Coolant Removal Services/Recycling
The tables include all coolant recycling processes currently approved by GM. Also included is a
primary phone number and demographic information. Used DEX-COOL(R) can be combined with
used conventional coolant (green) for recycling. Depending on the recycling service and/or
equipment, it is then designated as a conventional 2 yr/30,000 mile (50,000 km) coolant or
DEX-COOL(R) 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant. Recycled coolants as designated in this
bulletin may be used during the vehicle(s) warranty period.
DEX-COOL(R) Recycling
The DEX-COOL(R) recycling service listed in Table 2 has been approved for recycling waste
engine coolants (DEX-COOL) or conventional) to DEX-COOL(R) with 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000
km) usability. Recycling Fluid Technologies is the only licensed provider of Recycled
DEX-COOL(R) meeting GM6277M specifications and utilizes GM approved inhibitor packages.
This is currently a limited program being monitored by GM Service Operations which will be
expanded as demand increases.
Conventional (Green) Recycling
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2552
Processes shown in the Table 3 are capable of recycling waste engine coolants (DEX-COOL(R) or
conventional) to a conventional (green) coolant. Recycling conventional coolant can be
accomplished at your facility by a technician using approved EQUIPMENT (listed by model number
in Table 3), or by an approved coolant recycling SERVICE which may recycle the coolant at your
facility or at an offsite operation. Refer to the table for GM approved coolant recyclers in either of
these two categories. Should you decide to recycle the coolant yourself, strict adherence to the
operating procedures is imperative. Use ONLY the inhibitor chemicals supplied by the respective
(GM approved) recycling equipment manufacturer.
Sealing Tablets
Cooling System Sealing Tablets (Seal Tabs) should not be used as a regular maintenance item
after servicing an engine cooling system. Discoloration of coolant can occur if too many seal tabs
have been inserted into the cooling system. This can occur if seal tabs are repeatedly used over
the service life of a vehicle. Where appropriate, seal tabs may be used if diagnostics fail to repair a
small leak in the cooling system. When a condition appears in which seal tabs may be
recommended, a specific bulletin will be released describing their proper usage.
Water Quality
The integrity of the coolant is dependent upon the quality of DEX-COOL(R) and water.
DEX-COOL(R) is a product that has enhanced protection capability as well as an extended service
interval. These enhanced properties may be jeopardized by combining DEX-COOL(R) with poor
quality water. If you suspect the water in your area of being poor quality, it is recommended you
use distilled or de-ionized water with DEX-COOL(R).
"Pink" DEX-COOL(R)
DEX-COOL(R) is orange in color to distinguish it from other coolants. Due to inconsistencies in the
mixing of the dyes used with DEX-COOL(R), some batches may appear pink after time. The color
shift from orange to pink does not affect the integrity of the coolant, and still maintains the 5
yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) service interval.
Back Service
Only use DEX-COOL(R) if the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2553
Contamination
Mixing conventional green coolant with DEX-COOL(R) will degrade the service interval from 5
yrs./150,000 miles (240,000 km) to 2 yrs./30,000 miles (50,000 km) if left in the contaminated
condition. If contamination occurs, the cooling system must be flushed twice immediately and
re-filled with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL(R) and clean water in order to preserve the enhanced
properties and extended service interval of DEX-COOL(R).
After 5 years/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
After 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km), the coolant should be changed, preferably using a coolant
exchanger. If the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R) and has not had problems
with contamination from non-DEX-COOL(R) coolants, then the service interval remains the same,
and the coolant does not need to be changed for another 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
Equipment (Coolant Exchangers)
The preferred method of performing coolant replacement is to use a coolant exchanger. A coolant
exchanger can replace virtually all of the old coolant with new coolant. Coolant exchangers can be
used to perform coolant replacement without spillage, and facilitate easy waste collection. They
can also be used to lower the coolant level in a vehicle to allow for less messy servicing of cooling
system components. It is recommended that you use a coolant exchanger with a vacuum feature
facilitates removing trapped air from the cooling system. This is a substantial time savings over
repeatedly thermo cycling the vehicle and topping-off the radiator. The vacuum feature also allows
venting of a hot system to relieve system pressure. Approved coolant exchangers are available
through the GMDE (General Motors Dealer Equipment) program.
For refilling a cooling system that has been partially or fully drained for repairs other than coolant
replacement, the Vac-N-Fill Coolant Refill Tool (GE-47716) is recommended to facilitate removal of
trapped air from the cooling system during refill.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Cooling System Capacity ....................................................................................................................
............................................ 10.0 Liters (10.5 Quarts)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 2556
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
ENGINE COOLANT
A 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and use only GM Goodwrench(R)
DEX-COOL(R) or Havoline(R) DEX-COOL(R) (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant, conforming to
GM Specification 6277M.
CAUTIONS: ^
The use of sealing pellets (or similar compounds) in the coolant system is NOT recommended.The
use of sealing pellets may restrict the flow of coolant through the throttle body or other engine
cooling system components.
^ If silicate coolant is added to the cooling system, premature engine, heater core or radiator
corrosion may result. In addition, the coolant will require change SOONER, at 50 000 km (30,000
miles) or 24 months.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2557
Coolant: Description and Operation
COOLANT DESCRIPTION
NOTICE: When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL or
HAVOLINEO DEX-COOL coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOL (R) or HAVOLINE (R)
DEX-COOL (R) is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km
(30,000 mi) or 24 months.
A 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol (DEX-COOL (R) ) and water will provide the follow protection:
NOTICE: Pure coolant can be added to raise the boiling point of the coolant, but too much will
affect the freezing point. Do not use a solution stronger than 70 percent, as the freeze level rises
rapidly after this point. Pure coolant will freeze at-22°C (-8°F).
^ Give freezing protection down to-37°C (-34°F).
^ Give boiling protection up to 129°C (260°F)
^ Help keep the proper engine temperature.
^ Let the warning lights and gauges work correctly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Coolant Concentration Testing
Coolant: Testing and Inspection Coolant Concentration Testing
Coolant testers J26568 Centigrade Scale or J23688 Fahrenheit Scale can be used to verify the
antifreeze protection of the coolant. Verify that the
refractometer markings are correct. Unless J26568 or J23688 has a provision for temperature
correction, test the temperature at which testers are calibrated. IF the coolant is warmer or cooler
the reading may be incorrect. Follow the manufacturer's directions on the tester being used. ^
Before each use, lift up the plastic cover at the slanted end of J26568 or J23688 exposing the
measuring window and the bottom of the plastic cover.
^ Wipe the window with a tissue or a clean soft cloth.
^ Close the plastic cover.
TESTING PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J26568 or J23688 Coolant Tester Do not remove the clear plastic pump from the tester.
1. Release the tip of the pump from the coolant tester housing.
2. Insert the tip of the pump into the surge tank/radiator. The tip of the pump must be below the
level of the coolant. 3. Press the bulb. Release the pump bulb in order to obtain a sample of the
coolant. 4. Bend the tube around the J26568 or the J23688. Insert the tip of the pump into the
cover plate opening. 5. Press the pump bulb. Allow a few drops to fall onto the measuring surface.
Do not open the plastic cover when taking readings because any water
evaporation will change the reading.
6. Point the coolant tester toward any light source. Look into the eyepiece.
6.1. The coolant protection reading is at the point where the dividing line between light and dark
crosses the scale. Antifreeze protection is the scale on the right.
6.2. The temperature scale is reversed from a standard thermometer scale.
6.3. Below zero readings are on the upper half of the scale.
6.4. If the readings are not clear, properly clean and dry the measuring surface. Conduct a new
test. Verify that enough fluid is on the measuring surface.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Coolant Concentration Testing > Page 2560
Coolant: Testing and Inspection Cooling System Leak Testing
SURGE TANK CAP PRESSURE TEST
^ Tools Required J24460-01 Cooling System and Cap Pressure Tester
- J24460-92 Cooling System Tester Adapter
1. Inspect the hose connections for leaks.
2. Inspect the surge tank cap for loss of pressure using the J24460-92 and the J24460-01.If the
surge tank cap does not hold the rated pressure,
replace the surge tank pressure cap.
3. Use the correct pressure cap. Use only a 103 kPa (15 psi) pressure cap.
ON-VEHICLE PRESSURE TESTING PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J24460-01 Cooling System and Cap Pressure Tester
- J24460-92 Cooling System Tester Adapter
1. Inspect the connections of the coolant hoses for leaks. Repair as required. 2. Remove the surge
tank cap.
3. Install J24460-01 to the surge tank. Follow the instructions supplied with the J24460-01. 4. Build
up pressure to no more than 138 kPa (20 psi). 5. The system should hold the pressure for about
two minutes.
^ If a measurable amount of pressure drops within two minutes, test for a leak.
^ If you find a leak, remove the radiator. Replace the radiator. Refer to Radiator Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Drain Plug, Cylinder Block >
Component Information > Specifications
Coolant Drain Plug: Specifications
Water Jacket Drain Plug ......................................................................................................................
..................................................... 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor > Component
Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor > Component
Information > Locations > Page 2567
Engine Coolant Level Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Reservoir > Component
Information > Specifications
Coolant Reservoir: Specifications
Radiator Surge Tank Cap ....................................................................................................................
.................................................... 4 Nm (35 inch lbs.) Surge Tank Inlet Hose Clip .............................
...................................................................................................................................... 10 Nm (89
inch lbs.)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Reservoir > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2571
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Reservoir > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2572
Coolant Reservoir: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL' coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the cooling system. Recover the coolant. Refer
to Draining and Filling Cooling System.
3. Disconnect the low coolant connector. 4. Remove the radiator surge tank bolt and tank.
5. Disconnect the low coolant switch connector from the surge tank.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the low coolant switch to the tank.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Place the tank in the vehicle with a bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Reservoir > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2573
3. Connect the coolant hoses to the radiator surge tank.
4. Connect the low coolant connector. 5. Fill the cooling system at the radiator surge tank. Refer to
Draining and Filling Cooling System. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Specifications
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Specifications
Engine Cooling Fan Bolt ......................................................................................................................
................................................... 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Component Locations
Cooling Fan Location
Cooling fan is located front of engine compartment.
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 2580
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2583
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2584
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2585
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2586
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2587
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2588
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2589
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2590
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2591
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2592
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2607
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2608
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2609
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2610
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2611
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2612
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2613
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2614
Coolant Fan Motor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2615
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Electrical Diagrams
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2616
Wiring Diagram
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2617
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Description and Operation
ELECTRIC COOLING FAN
CAUTION: If a fan blade is bent or damaged in any way, do not repair or reuse the damaged part
Always replace a bent or damaged fan blade. Fan blades that have been damaged can not be
assured of proper balance and could fail and fly apart during subsequent use. This creates an
extremely dangerous situation. The fan blades must remain in proper balance. You cannot assure
fan blade balance once a fan blade has been bent or damaged. A fan blade that is not in proper
balance could fall and fly apart during use, creating an extremely dangerous situation.
An electric engine cooling fan aids air flow through the radiator. An electric motor, attached to the
radiator support, drives the fan. Coolant temperature activates the fan motor. If the vehicle is
equipped with air conditioning, a switch can activate the fan motor when the compressor is
operating.
COOLING FAN OPERATION
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) regulates the voltage to the cooling fan relay. The relay
operates the fan when the engine coolant temperature exceeds 106°C (223°F) The cooling fan will
turn on automatically during extended idle conditions under 5 miles per hour. For diagnosis and
location of the relay, refer to Electrical Diagnosis.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2618
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Usually, electric cooling fan motors, fans, shrouds, and brackets are available
separately. Always consult a parts catalog.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness electrical connector from the motor and the fan frame.
3. Remove the fan assembly from the radiator support.
CAUTION: If a fan blade is bent or damaged in any way, do not repair or reuse the damaged part.
Always replace a bent or damaged fan blade. Fan blades that have been damaged can not be
assured of proper balance and could fail and fly apart during subsequent use. This creates an
extremely dangerous situation.
The fan blades must remain in proper balance. You cannot assure fan blade balance once a fan
blade has been bent or damaged. A fan blade that is not in proper balance could fail and fly apart
during use, creating an extremely dangerous situation.
4. A fan blade that is not in proper balance could fail and fly apart during use, creating an extremely
dangerous situation.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2619
1. Install the fan assembly to the radiator support.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Connect the wiring harness
^ Tighten the bolt to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.).
3. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Nm (111 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations
COOLING FAN RELAY
Component Location Views
The Cooling Fan Relay is located in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Center. The Underhood
Fuse/Relay Center is located in the LH front of the engine compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Technical Service Bulletins Instruments Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-010
Date: March, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Erratic and Incorrect Engine Temperature Reading (Bleed Air from Cooling System)
Models: 1998-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-99 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition Some owners may comment about low coolant temperature gauge readings and when
performing diagnosis, the technician may notice coolant temperature readings below the actual
coolant temperature.
Cause There may be a small pocket of air trapped in the coolant temperature sensor fitting on the
radiator inlet pipe. This air pocket insulates the coolant temperature sensor from contact with the
coolant flow causing low temperature gauge readings.
Correction REMOVE THE TRAPPED AIR WITH THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
Caution:
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably
higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank
cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil
instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the
fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
1. With the engine off and at ambient temperature, slowly remove the surge tank cap to relieve
pressure from the cooling system.
2. Locate the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
Notice:
DO NOT APPLY TORQUE DIRECTLY TO THE RADIATOR INLET PIPE! Always use a back up
wrench on the coolant temperature sensor fitting to prevent damage to the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
3. Observe the gap between the bottom of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor and the top
of the hex on the fitting brazed to the radiator inlet pipe. It may be helpful at this point to mark the
coolant temperature sensor thread with a reference mark 5 mm (0.196 in) down from the bottom of
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading > Page 2628
the hex on the sensor.
4. Slowly loosen the sensor (do not fully remove it) until coolant begins to weep out of the threads.
This will allow any trapped air to escape and will ensure that the coolant is in contact with the
sensor element.
5. Retighten the Coolant Temperature Sensor until there is a 5 mm (0.196 in) gap between the
bottom of the hex on the sensor and the top of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor fitting.
6. Inspect the coolant level in the surge tank, if the coolant is low, add additional coolant to bring
the level up to the "Full Cold" mark on the surge tank. Install the surge tank cap.
7. Start the vehicle and inspect the Coolant Temperature Sensor for leaks and correct temperature
gauge readings.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor 0peration Labor Time
J6368 0.3 hr
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 2629
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Sensor 25 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 2630
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2633
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2634
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2635
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2636
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2637
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2638
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2639
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2654
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2655
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2656
Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2657
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2658
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2659
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2660
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2661
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2662
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2663
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2664
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2665
Wiring Diagram
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2666
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (3) is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor through a resistor in the PCM and monitors the
terminal voltage. Since this forms a series circuit to ground through the ECT sensor, high sensor
resistance (low temperature) will result in high PCM terminal voltage. When the resistance of the
ECT sensor is low (high temperature), the terminal voltage will be drawn lower. This terminal
voltage indicates engine coolant temperature to the PCM.
A hard fault in the ECT sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0117 or P0118. Remember, these
DTCs indicate a malfunction in the engine coolant temperature circuit, so proper use of the DTC
table may lead to either repairing a wiring problem or replacing the sensor, to properly repair a
problem.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2667
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect the
operation of the fuel control system.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Relieve the coolant system pressure. 3. Disconnect the ECT
sensor electrical connector. 4. Carefully back out the ECT sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer. 2. Install the ECT sensor. Tighten the ECT sensor to 25 Nm
(18.5 lb. ft.). 3. Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector. 4. Refill the engine coolant system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
Heater Core: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-001A
Date: July 16, 2008
Subject: Information On Aluminum Heater Core and/or Radiator Replacement
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2003-2005
HUMMER H2
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-001 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important:
2004-05 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX-COOL(R). Refer to the
flushing procedure explained later in this bulletin.
The following information should be utilized when servicing aluminum heater core and/or radiators
on repeat visits. A replacement may be necessary because erosion, corrosion, or insufficient
inhibitor levels may cause damage to the heater core, radiator or water pump. A coolant check
should be performed whenever a heater core, radiator, or water pump is replaced. The following
procedures/ inspections should be done to verify proper coolant effectiveness.
Caution:
To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot.
The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if the radiator cap or surge
tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.
Important:
If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or the customer has repeatedly added coolant or water
to the system, then the system should be completely flushed using the procedure explained later in
this bulletin.
Technician Diagnosis
^ Verify coolant concentration. A 50% coolant/water solution ensures proper freeze and corrosion
protection. Inhibitor levels cannot be easily measured in the field, but can be indirectly done by the
measurement of coolant concentration. This must be done by using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale), or equivalent, coolant tester. The Refractometer
uses a minimal amount of coolant that can be taken from the coolant recovery reservoir, radiator or
the engine block. Inexpensive gravity float testers (floating balls) will not completely analyze the
coolant concentration fully and should not be used. The concentration levels should be between
50% and 65% coolant concentrate. This mixture will have a freeze point protection of -34 degrees
Fahrenheit (-37 degrees Celsius). If the concentration is below 50%, the cooling system must be
flushed.
^ Inspect the coolant flow restrictor if the vehicle is equipped with one. Refer to Service Information
(SI) and/or the appropriate Service Manual for component location and condition for operation.
^ Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system. This electrolysis test can be performed
before or after the system has been repaired. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test
lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure
the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that
stray current is finding its way into the coolant. Electrolysis is often an intermittent condition that
occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized. This type of current
could be caused from a poorly grounded cooling fan or some other accessory and can be verified
by watching the volt meter and turning on and off various accessories or engage the starter motor.
Before using one of the following flush procedures, the coolant recovery reservoir must be
removed, drained, cleaned and reinstalled before refilling the system.
Notice:
^ Using coolant other than DEX‐COOL(R) may cause premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles
(50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Always use DEX‐COOL(R) (silicate free) coolant in your vehicle.
^ If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The
repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and
crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 2672
Flushing Procedures using DEX-COOL(R)
Important:
The following procedure recommends refilling the system with DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in
Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. This coolant is orange in color and has a
service interval of 5 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi). However, when used on vehicles built prior
to the introduction of DEX-COOL(R), maintenance intervals will remain the same as specified in the
Owner's Manual.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling system flush and fill machine is not available, drain the coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system
using clear, drinkable water and run the vehicle until the thermostat opens. Repeat and run the
vehicle three (3) times to totally remove the old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear.
Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with
DEX‐COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% DEX-COOL(R),
P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. Then slowly add clear,
drinkable water (preferably distilled) to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached
the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and reverify the coolant level. If necessary, add
clean water to restore the coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, reverify the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. The concentration
levels should be between 50% and 65%.
Flushing Procedures using Conventional Silicated (Green Colored) Coolant
Important:
2004-2005 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX‐COOL(R).
The Aveo and Wave are filled with conventional, silicated engine coolant that is blue in color.
Silicated coolants are typically green in color and are required to be drained, flushed and refilled
every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). The Aveo and Wave are to be serviced with conventional, silicated
coolant. Use P/N 12378560 (1 gal) (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 (1 L). Refer to the Owner's
Manual or Service Information (SI) for further information on OEM coolant.
Important:
Do not mix the OEM orange colored DEX-COOL(R) coolant with green colored coolant when
adding coolant to the system or when servicing the vehicle's cooling system. Mixing the orange and
green colored coolants will produce a brown coolant which may be a customer dissatisfier and will
not extend the service interval to that of DEX-COOL(R). Conventional silicated coolants offered by
GM Service and Parts Operations are green in color.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling systems flush and fill machine is not available, drain coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using
clear, drinkable water and run vehicle until thermostat opens. Repeat and run vehicle three (3)
times to totally remove old coolant or until drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is
completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with a good quality
ethylene glycol base engine coolant, P/N 12378560, 1 gal (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 1 L),
conforming to GM specification 1825M, or recycled coolant conforming to GM specification 1825M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% good quality
ethylene glycol base (green colored) engine coolant, P/N 12378560 1 gal., (in Canada, use P/N
88862159 1 L) conforming to GM specification 1825M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water
(preferably distilled) to system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the
radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and recheck coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to
restore coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, recheck the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. Concentration levels
should be between 50% and 65%.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 2673
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2674
Heater Core: Specifications Heater Core Torque Specifications
Heater Core Torque Specifications
Heater Core Cover Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Core Shroud Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Core Strap Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Outlet Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Outlet Pipe Nut 18 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2675
Heater Core: Locations
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2676
(2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2677
Heater Core: Description and Operation
The heater core transfers heat from the engine coolant to the incoming air. The heater core is
located in the lower section of the heater module near the front of the dash.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2678
Heater Core: Service and Repair
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2679
(2 Of 2)
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain cooling system. 3. Heater hoses from heater core. 4. Instrument
Panel. 5. Heater core outlet. 6. Heater core cover.
^ There is a mounting screw located in a recess in the center of the cover
7. Heater core mounting clamps and beater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater core and heater core mounting clamps.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
2. Heater core cover.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
3. Heater core outlet.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
4. Instrument Panel. 5. Heater hoses to heater core. 6. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. 7.
Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2680
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Heater Hose: > 99-01-38-003 > Sep > 99 > Engine/Transmission Whine at 2800-3200 RPM
Heater Hose: Customer Interest Engine/Transmission - Whine at 2800-3200 RPM
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-003
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine/Transmission Whine at 2800-3200 RPM (Replace Heater Inlet Hose)
Models: 1997-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO
LN2)
Condition Some customers may comment on a whine from the engine/transmission at 2800-3200
RPM.
Cause The production released heater inlet hose has an internal coolant flow restrictor. The flow of
the coolant through the restrictor may induce a whine/whistle. In some cases the flow restrictor may
migrate and come in contact with the heater core inlet tube. If the restrictor comes in contact with
the heater core inlet pipe the whine may become audible within the passenger compartment of the
vehicle.
Correction Replace the heater inlet hose (P/N 22615693). Use the procedure found in the HVAC
section of the Service Manual. The new part has a stainless steel clamp over the hose under the
insulator where the flow restrictor is positioned. If the clamp is missing on the hose, do not use. All
parts currently in GMSPO stock are of the new style.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22615693 Hose, Heater Inlet
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
D2774 Hose, Heater Rear Inlet 0.9 hr
(With Air Conditioning)
- Replace
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Heater Hose: > 99-01-38-003 > Sep > 99 >
Engine/Transmission - Whine at 2800-3200 RPM
Heater Hose: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine/Transmission - Whine at 2800-3200 RPM
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-003
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine/Transmission Whine at 2800-3200 RPM (Replace Heater Inlet Hose)
Models: 1997-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO
LN2)
Condition Some customers may comment on a whine from the engine/transmission at 2800-3200
RPM.
Cause The production released heater inlet hose has an internal coolant flow restrictor. The flow of
the coolant through the restrictor may induce a whine/whistle. In some cases the flow restrictor may
migrate and come in contact with the heater core inlet tube. If the restrictor comes in contact with
the heater core inlet pipe the whine may become audible within the passenger compartment of the
vehicle.
Correction Replace the heater inlet hose (P/N 22615693). Use the procedure found in the HVAC
section of the Service Manual. The new part has a stainless steel clamp over the hose under the
insulator where the flow restrictor is positioned. If the clamp is missing on the hose, do not use. All
parts currently in GMSPO stock are of the new style.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22615693 Hose, Heater Inlet
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
D2774 Hose, Heater Rear Inlet 0.9 hr
(With Air Conditioning)
- Replace
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2694
Heater Hose: Specifications Heater Hose and Pipe Torque Specifications
Heater Hose and Pipe Torque Specifications
Heater Outlet Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Outlet Pipe Nut 18 ft.lb
Heater Pipe Assembly to Engine Bolt and Nut 18 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2695
Heater Hose: Locations
Heater Pipes
The heater hoses are attached to the heater core at the front of dash and to the inlet and outlet
pipes at the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2696
Heater Hose: Description and Operation
The heater hoses and pipes carry engine coolant from the engine to the heater core.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Preliminary Instructions
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Preliminary Instructions
Heater Hoses
Heater Pipes
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Make sure conduit and heat sleeving are in the same location as the original when replacing a
hose. when servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE
RETAINER IS RECOMMENDED. Refer to Quick Connect Retainer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Preliminary Instructions > Page 2699
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Hoses
Heater Hoses
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain engine coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling in Engine Cooling. 2. Heater hoses from
heater pipes. 3. Heater hoses from heater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater hoses to heater core. 2. Heater hoses to heater pipes. 3. Drain engine coolant. Refer to
Draining and Refilling in Engine Cooling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Preliminary Instructions > Page 2700
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Pipe Assembly
Heater Pipes
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling in Engine Cooling. 2. Heater core to pipe hoses
from beater pipe assembly. 3. Heater pipe hose at coolant outlet on engine. 4. Heater pipe hose at
coolant inlet on engine. 5. Bolt and nuts retaining pipe to engine. 6. Heater pipe assembly.
Install or Connect
1. Heater pipe assembly. 2. Bolt and nuts retaining pipe to engine.
Tighten ^
Bolt and nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
3. Heater pipe hose to coolant inlet on engine. 4. Heater pipe hose to coolant outlet on engine. 5.
Heater core to pipe hoses to heater pipe assembly. 6. Refill coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling
in Engine Cooling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Radiator Drain Plug >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Radiator Drain Plug: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
1. Drain the coolant from the radiator. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 2. Turn the
draincock counter clockwise to an intermediate position.
3. Remove the radiator drain stem and seal. The seal usually comes out attached to the stem. 4.
Clean the drain.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the seal on the drain cock stem. 2. Install the drain cock. Turn the stem clockwise to lock.
3. Refill the coolant to the proper level. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 4. Start the
engine. After the engine reaches normal operating temperature, inspect for coolant leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Hose > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling - Upper Radiator Hose Replacement
Radiator Hose: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling - Upper Radiator Hose Replacement
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-015
Date: October, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Upper Radiator Hose Replacement
Models: 1998-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L, L-4 Engine (VIN 4 RPO LN2)
When replacing the upper radiator hose, be sure to install protective conduit, P/N 22618378.
Position the conduit to protect the hose from contact (2) with the battery tray (1), 21 mm (8 1⁄4 in)
with the seam of the conduit facing away from the battery tray.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22618378 Conduit
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Hose > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet)
Radiator Hose: Service and Repair Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL (R) coolant. It silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the coolant to a level below the hose being
removed. Recover the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the
radiator inlet hose and the clamps from the radiator and the coolant outlet.
4. Disconnect the radiator outlet hose and the clamps from the following places:
^ The radiator
^ The coolant pump
^ The radiator surge tank
5. Remove the radiator outlet hose.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Make sure the reference marks on the hoses and the radiator are lined up. A twist on the
hose would place strain on the radiator fitting which could cause the fitting to crack or break.
1. Install the radiator outlet hose and the clamps to the following places:
^ The radiator
^ The coolant pump
^ The radiator surge tank
2. Install the radiator inlet hose and the clamp to the radiator and the coolant outlet.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Hose > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 2711
3. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
4. Refill the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 5. Start the engine. After the
engine reaches normal operating temperature, inspect for coolant leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Hose > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 2712
Radiator Hose: Service and Repair Radiator Hose Replacement (Outlet)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL (R) coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the coolant to a level below the hose that is
being removed. Recover the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System.
3. Remove the radiator inlet hose (3) and the clamps (2) from the radiator and the coolant outlet
(1).
4. Disconnect the radiator outlet hose (1) and the clamps (2) from the following places:
^ The radiator
^ The radiator outlet pipe (3)
^ The radiator surge tank
5. Remove the radiator outlet hose.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Make sure the reference marks on the hoses and the radiator are lined up. A twist on the
hose would place strain on the radiator fitting which could cause the fitting to crack or break.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Hose > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 2713
1. Install the radiator outlet hose (3) and the clamps (2) to the following places:
^ The radiator
^ The radiator outlet pipe (3)
^ The radiator surge tank
2. Install the radiator inlet hose (3) and the clamps (2) to the coolant outlet (1) and the radiator.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
4. Refill the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 5. Start the engine. After the
engine reaches normal operating temperature, inspect for coolant leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Hose > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 2714
Radiator Hose: Service and Repair Radiator Pipe Replacement - Outlet
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL (R) coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the coolant. Recover the coolant. Refer to
Draining and Filling Cooling System.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. 4. Remove the cover to the outlet pipe bolt through
the exhaust manifold runners. 5. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
6. Disconnect the radiator outlet hose (1) from the radiator outlet pipe (3).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Hose > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 2715
7. Remove the radiator outlet pipe (1) to the oil pan (2) bolt (3).
8. Remove the cover to the outlet pipe bolt. 9. Remove the thermostat (2).
10. Clean the mating surfaces of the radiator outlet pipe and the coolant pump cover.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the thermostat (2).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the cover to the outlet pipe bolt
^ Tighten the bolt to 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Hose > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Radiator Hose Replacement (Inlet) > Page 2716
3. Install the radiator outlet pipe (1) to oil pan (2).
^ Tighten the outlet pipe to oil pan bolt to 26 Nm (19 ft. lbs.).
4. Connect the radiator hose (1) to the outlet pipe (3). 5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Install the cover to the outlet pipe bolt through the exhaust manifold runners. 7. Install the
manifold heat shield. 8. Fill the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 9.
Connect the negative battery cable.
10. Inspect for leaks. 11. Start the engine. After the engine reaches normal operating temperature,
inspect for coolant leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations
COOLING FAN RELAY
Component Location Views
The Cooling Fan Relay is located in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Center. The Underhood
Fuse/Relay Center is located in the LH front of the engine compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2725
Engine Coolant Level Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Technical Service Bulletins Instruments Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-010
Date: March, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Erratic and Incorrect Engine Temperature Reading (Bleed Air from Cooling System)
Models: 1998-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-99 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition Some owners may comment about low coolant temperature gauge readings and when
performing diagnosis, the technician may notice coolant temperature readings below the actual
coolant temperature.
Cause There may be a small pocket of air trapped in the coolant temperature sensor fitting on the
radiator inlet pipe. This air pocket insulates the coolant temperature sensor from contact with the
coolant flow causing low temperature gauge readings.
Correction REMOVE THE TRAPPED AIR WITH THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
Caution:
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably
higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank
cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil
instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the
fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
1. With the engine off and at ambient temperature, slowly remove the surge tank cap to relieve
pressure from the cooling system.
2. Locate the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
Notice:
DO NOT APPLY TORQUE DIRECTLY TO THE RADIATOR INLET PIPE! Always use a back up
wrench on the coolant temperature sensor fitting to prevent damage to the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
3. Observe the gap between the bottom of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor and the top
of the hex on the fitting brazed to the radiator inlet pipe. It may be helpful at this point to mark the
coolant temperature sensor thread with a reference mark 5 mm (0.196 in) down from the bottom of
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading > Page 2731
the hex on the sensor.
4. Slowly loosen the sensor (do not fully remove it) until coolant begins to weep out of the threads.
This will allow any trapped air to escape and will ensure that the coolant is in contact with the
sensor element.
5. Retighten the Coolant Temperature Sensor until there is a 5 mm (0.196 in) gap between the
bottom of the hex on the sensor and the top of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor fitting.
6. Inspect the coolant level in the surge tank, if the coolant is low, add additional coolant to bring
the level up to the "Full Cold" mark on the surge tank. Install the surge tank cap.
7. Start the vehicle and inspect the Coolant Temperature Sensor for leaks and correct temperature
gauge readings.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor 0peration Labor Time
J6368 0.3 hr
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2732
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Sensor 25 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2733
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2736
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2737
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (3) is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor through a resistor in the PCM and monitors the
terminal voltage. Since this forms a series circuit to ground through the ECT sensor, high sensor
resistance (low temperature) will result in high PCM terminal voltage. When the resistance of the
ECT sensor is low (high temperature), the terminal voltage will be drawn lower. This terminal
voltage indicates engine coolant temperature to the PCM.
A hard fault in the ECT sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0117 or P0118. Remember, these
DTCs indicate a malfunction in the engine coolant temperature circuit, so proper use of the DTC
table may lead to either repairing a wiring problem or replacing the sensor, to properly repair a
problem.
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Information > Diagrams > Page 2770
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect the
operation of the fuel control system.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Relieve the coolant system pressure. 3. Disconnect the ECT
sensor electrical connector. 4. Carefully back out the ECT sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer. 2. Install the ECT sensor. Tighten the ECT sensor to 25 Nm
(18.5 lb. ft.). 3. Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector. 4. Refill the engine coolant system.
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Component Information > Specifications
Thermostat: Specifications
Thermostat Opening Temperature 82 Degrees C
180 Degrees F
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Thermostat: Description and Operation
THERMOSTAT DESCRIPTION
The 2.2L (4 cyl.) and 2.4L (4 cyl.) engines use a wax pellet-type thermostat. The thermostat is in
the coolant inlet passage. The thermostat does the following functions: ^
Controls the flow of coolant
^ Provides fast engine warm-up
^ Regulates the coolant temperature
A wax pellet, or power element, (4) in the thermostat expands when heated, and contracts when
cooled. The pellet element connects through a piston (1) to a valve (2). When the pellet element is
heated, pressure is exerted against a rubber diaphragm (3) which forces the valve to open. As the
element is cooled, the contraction allows a spring (5) to close the valve. While the coolant is cold,
the valve remains closed. This prevents circulation of coolant through the radiator. At this point,
coolant is only allowed to circulate through the engine in order to quickly warm the engine. As the
engine warms, the pellet element expands and the thermostat valve opens. This permits coolant to
flow through the radiator, where the heat is dissipated through the radiator walls. This opening and
closing of the thermostat permits enough coolant to enter the radiator in order to keep the engine
within specified temperature limits.
Both engines use a 82°C (180°F) thermostat. Do not use a thermostat rated above these control
temperatures. A higher-temperature thermostat does not offer a faster warm-up, because the valve
(1) remains tightly closed until the thermostat reaches the control temperature. This is much like a
lower-temperature thermostat. Always install the thermostat with the pointed end facing the
radiator. Incorrect installation could cause the engine to overheat.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2775
Thermostat: Testing and Inspection
Part 1 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2776
Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2777
Thermostat: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL (R) coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the coolant to level below the thermostat.
Recover the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System.
3. Remove the radiator coolant outlet pipe attaching bolts.
4. Remove the coolant outlet.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2778
5. Remove the thermostat. 6. Clean the mating surfaces of the radiator outlet and the radiator
outlet pipe.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the thermostat.
2. Install the coolant outlet.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the coolant outlet attaching bolts.
Tighten Tighten the coolant outlet bolts to 14 N.m (124 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2779
4. Refill the engine coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 5. Connect the negative
battery cable. 6. Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Fastener Tightening Specifications
Water Pump: Specifications Fastener Tightening Specifications
Water Pump .........................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) Water Pump Inlet .............................................
......................................................................................................................................... 25 Nm (18
ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Fastener Tightening Specifications > Page 2784
Water Pump: Specifications Water Pump Pulley
Water Pump Pulley Bolts .....................................................................................................................
..................................................... 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2785
Water Pump: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL(R) coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the
system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner-at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the cooling system. Recover the coolant. Refer
to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Loosen the attaching bolts of the coolant pump pulley. 4.
Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. 5. Remove the attaching bolts
of the coolant pump pulley.
6. Remove the coolant pump pulley. 7. Remove the surge tank hose. 8. Remove the attaching bolts
of the coolant pump.
9. Remove the coolant pump and the gasket.
10. Completely clean the sealing surfaces of the coolant pump and the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2786
1. Using a new gasket, install the coolant pump and the attaching bolts. Coat the bolt threads with
pipe sealant GM P/N 12346004, or equivalent.
^ Tighten the coolant pump bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the coolant pump pulley and the bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. 4. Refill the cooling system.
Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Start the
engine. After the engine reaches normal operating temperature, inspect for coolant leaks. 7.
Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Specifications
Exhaust Manifold: Specifications
Exhaust Manifold Nuts .........................................................................................................................
............................................... 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Exhaust Manifold Replacement
Exhaust Manifold: Service and Repair Exhaust Manifold Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK
position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component.
Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment
come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result
in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.
For Vehicles equipped with OnStar (UE1) with Back Up Battery:
The Back Up Battery is a redundant power supply to allow limited OnStar functionality in the event
of a main vehicle battery power disruption to the VCIM (OnStar module). Do not disconnect the
main vehicle battery or remove the OnStar fuse with the ignition key in any position other than
OFF. Retained accessory power (RAP) should be allowed to time out or be disabled (simply
opening the driver door should disable RAP) before disconnecting power. Disconnecting power to
the OnStar module in any way while the ignition is On or with RAP activated may cause activation
of the OnStar Back-Up Battery (BUB) system and will discharge and permanently damage the
back-up battery. Once the Back-Up Battery is activated it will stay on until it has completely
discharged. The BUB is not rechargeable and once activated the BUB must be replaced.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Partially drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining
and Filling Cooling System.
3. Remove the oxygen sensor lead.
4. Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. 5. Remove the generator rear brace. 6.
Remove the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement. 7. Remove the radiator inlet pipe. 8.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle. 9. Remove the exhaust
pipe to the exhaust manifold.
10. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Exhaust Manifold Replacement > Page 2796
11. Remove the oil fill tube. Refer to Oil Level Indicator and Tube Replacement. 12. Remove the
heater outlet hose assembly nut from the exhaust manifold.
13. Remove the exhaust manifold nuts. 14. Remove the exhaust manifold and the gasket. 15.
Clean the mating surfaces at the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold. 16. Inspect the manifold
for cracks, broken flanges and gasket surface damage. 17. Verify the alignment of the exhaust
manifold mating surfaces. Use a straight edge and a feeler gauge. If the flanges or the mating
surfaces do not
align, the manifold is warped and should be replaced.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the exhaust manifold gasket. 2. Install the exhaust manifold.
NOTICE: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
3. Install the exhaust manifold nuts.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Exhaust Manifold Replacement > Page 2797
4. Install the heater outlet hose assembly nut.
Tighten ^Tighten the nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the oil fill tube. Refer to Oil Level Indicator and Tube Replacement. 6. Raise the vehicle.
Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle. 7. Install the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Refer to
Intermediate Pipe Replacement. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9. Install the radiator inlet pipe.
10. Install the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement. 11. Install the generator rear brace. 12.
Install the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. 13. Install the oxygen sensor lead. 14.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
15. Refill the cooling system, Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Exhaust Manifold Replacement > Page 2798
Exhaust Manifold: Service and Repair Exhaust Manifold Pipe Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Do not over-flex or damage the flex joint when moving the flex joint from the normal
mounting position.
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. Support the three-way catalytic converter.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold pipe assembly from the three-way catalytic converter.
4. Remove the exhaust manifold pipe assembly from the exhaust manifold. 5. Remove the exhaust
manifold seal and the three-way catalytic converter seal. 6. Clean the flange surfaces.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the exhaust manifold seal and the three-way catalytic converter seal.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Exhaust Manifold Replacement > Page 2799
2. Install the exhaust manifold pipe assembly to the exhaust manifold.
3. Install the exhaust manifold pipe assembly to the three-way catalytic converter. 4. Lower the
vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe > Component Information
> Specifications
Exhaust Pipe: Specifications
Exhaust Pipe To Manifold Nut .............................................................................................................
.................................................... 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 2803
Exhaust Pipe: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Do not over-flex or damage the flex decoupler joint when moving the flex decoupler joint
from the normal mounting position. The flex decoupler joint will flex a maximum of six degrees
which is equivalent to the pipes connected at the joint which move 1 inch for each foot length of
pipe. A three foot pipe would move a maximum of three inches.
IMPORTANT: A service muffler will be needed when replacing the intermediate pipe on an
originally equipped, welded system.
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General
Information. 2. Support the three-way catalytic converter. 3. Cut the intermediate pipe at the
muffler.
4. Remove the intermediate pipe from the three-way catalytic converter. 5. Remove the
intermediate pipe from the hanger.
6. Remove the intermediate pipe.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 2804
7. Remove the muffler from the hangers.
8. Remove the three-way catalytic converter seals. 9. Clean the flange surface.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the three-way catalytic converter seals.
2. Install the intermediate pipe to the hanger.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 2805
3. Install the intermediate pipe to the three-way-catalytic converter.
4. Install the muffler to the hangers.
5. Weld the muffler to the intermediate pipe. 6. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Hanger >
Component Information > Specifications
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Hanger: Specifications
Muffler Hanger To Frame ....................................................................................................................
.................................................... 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.) Muffler Hanger To Muffler Bolt
..............................................................................................................................................................
16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.) Muffler Strap ..........................................................................................................
.................................................................................. 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Muffler: > 83-66-01 > Mar > 98 > Muffler - Thumping Noise in Park or
Drive
Muffler: Customer Interest Muffler - Thumping Noise in Park or Drive
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-66-01
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Thumping Noise from the Muffler Can Be Heard at Idle in Park or Drive (Replace Muffler)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition
Some owners may comment that a thumping or oil canning noise may be heard on cold or hot
exhaust systems. This noise can be heard while at idle in park or drive.
Cause
Condition may be caused by noise produced by the outer and inner muffler shells separating from
different thermal expansion rates. The outer shell usually will buckle in the rear chamber of the
muffler. Pressure pulsation from the engine causes the outer shell to resonate and produce the
thumping noise.
Important:
Mufflers built after October, 1997 have an additional twelve spot welds added to prevent this
condition.
Correction
Replace the muffler with P/N 22614984 (Chevrolet) and P/N 22614985 (Pontiac).
Parts Information
P/N Description
22614984 (Chevrolet) Muffler Assembly
22614985 (Pontiac)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L2584 Muffler - Replace Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Muffler: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from
Painted Muffler
Muffler: Customer Interest Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 33-17-01A
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Paint Peeling from Muffler (New Repair Paint Available)
Models: 1993-98 Passenger Cars with Painted Mufflers
This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 33-17-01 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may experience paint peeling from the muffler.
Correction
Clean and repaint the affected area using the following procedure and product.
Important:
DO NOT REPLACE COMPONENTS TO REPAIR THIS CONDITION.
The exhaust system must be cold to begin this procedure.
Material Required: * Wabash Products # KB-318-HHHS, available in pints or quarts as ready to
spray material (no mixing required). Call Wabash Products, 1-800-326-7269 or 812-232-6097 for
pricing and shipping information.
Procedure
On a cold exhaust system:
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. While supporting exhaust with a transmission jack, remove the rear exhaust system hangers and
lower the exhaust.
3. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
4. Wire brush the affected area to remove flaking paint and blow off with air.
5. Sand the affected area with # 80 to 150 grit sandpaper to remove rust, dirt or other
contaminants.
6. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
7. Tape off the rear lower body panels and exhaust pipes forward of mufflers to protect from
overspray.
8. Apply paint to affected area in several (6 to 8) thin coats (to prevent sags and runs) obtaining
approximately 1 mil paint coverage.
9. Raise exhaust system with jack, reinstall exhaust hangers, lower vehicle and remove from hoist.
^ Allow 30 minutes drying time.
10. In a well ventilated area, start engine and allow to idle for up to 30 minutes until paint is cured
and dry.
Important:
Some "smoking" will occur while curing the paint with the engine running.
The paint can be heated and cured while driving, but be careful not to get the exhaust system wet
during the first 30 minutes.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Muffler: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from
Painted Muffler > Page 2821
Labor Material
Operation Labor Time Allowance
A6150 0.6 hr - Single Exhaust GC
Add 0.2 hr - Dual Exhaust GC
Important:
While the above procedure and materials are correct for vehicles from 1993 to 1998, the Labor
Operation and Time Allowance only pertains to vehicles in the Warranty period.
* We believe this source and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Muffler: > 83-66-01 > Mar > 98 > Muffler - Thumping Noise
in Park or Drive
Muffler: All Technical Service Bulletins Muffler - Thumping Noise in Park or Drive
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-66-01
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Thumping Noise from the Muffler Can Be Heard at Idle in Park or Drive (Replace Muffler)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition
Some owners may comment that a thumping or oil canning noise may be heard on cold or hot
exhaust systems. This noise can be heard while at idle in park or drive.
Cause
Condition may be caused by noise produced by the outer and inner muffler shells separating from
different thermal expansion rates. The outer shell usually will buckle in the rear chamber of the
muffler. Pressure pulsation from the engine causes the outer shell to resonate and produce the
thumping noise.
Important:
Mufflers built after October, 1997 have an additional twelve spot welds added to prevent this
condition.
Correction
Replace the muffler with P/N 22614984 (Chevrolet) and P/N 22614985 (Pontiac).
Parts Information
P/N Description
22614984 (Chevrolet) Muffler Assembly
22614985 (Pontiac)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L2584 Muffler - Replace Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Muffler: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint
Peeling from Painted Muffler
Muffler: All Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 33-17-01A
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Paint Peeling from Muffler (New Repair Paint Available)
Models: 1993-98 Passenger Cars with Painted Mufflers
This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 33-17-01 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may experience paint peeling from the muffler.
Correction
Clean and repaint the affected area using the following procedure and product.
Important:
DO NOT REPLACE COMPONENTS TO REPAIR THIS CONDITION.
The exhaust system must be cold to begin this procedure.
Material Required: * Wabash Products # KB-318-HHHS, available in pints or quarts as ready to
spray material (no mixing required). Call Wabash Products, 1-800-326-7269 or 812-232-6097 for
pricing and shipping information.
Procedure
On a cold exhaust system:
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. While supporting exhaust with a transmission jack, remove the rear exhaust system hangers and
lower the exhaust.
3. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
4. Wire brush the affected area to remove flaking paint and blow off with air.
5. Sand the affected area with # 80 to 150 grit sandpaper to remove rust, dirt or other
contaminants.
6. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
7. Tape off the rear lower body panels and exhaust pipes forward of mufflers to protect from
overspray.
8. Apply paint to affected area in several (6 to 8) thin coats (to prevent sags and runs) obtaining
approximately 1 mil paint coverage.
9. Raise exhaust system with jack, reinstall exhaust hangers, lower vehicle and remove from hoist.
^ Allow 30 minutes drying time.
10. In a well ventilated area, start engine and allow to idle for up to 30 minutes until paint is cured
and dry.
Important:
Some "smoking" will occur while curing the paint with the engine running.
The paint can be heated and cured while driving, but be careful not to get the exhaust system wet
during the first 30 minutes.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Muffler: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint
Peeling from Painted Muffler > Page 2831
Labor Material
Operation Labor Time Allowance
A6150 0.6 hr - Single Exhaust GC
Add 0.2 hr - Dual Exhaust GC
Important:
While the above procedure and materials are correct for vehicles from 1993 to 1998, the Labor
Operation and Time Allowance only pertains to vehicles in the Warranty period.
* We believe this source and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2832
Muffler: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General
Information.
2. Cut the intermediate pipe at the muffler near the weld.
3. Remove the muffler from the hangers.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the muffler to the hangers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2833
2. Weld the muffler to the intermediate pipe. 3. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Resonator > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Exhaust Resonator: > 63-66-04C > Sep > 98 > Exhaust Metallic Noise or Rap Heard on Cold Exhaust
Exhaust Resonator: Customer Interest Exhaust - Metallic Noise or Rap Heard on Cold Exhaust
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 63-66-04C
Date: September, 1998
Subject: Metallic Noise or "Cold Rap" Heard on Cold Exhaust Systems During Free Rev or Engine
Load (Install Resonator Assembly)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
This bulletin is being revised to change labor time information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 63-66-04B (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some owners may comment that a metallic noise or "cold rap" may be heard on cold exhaust
systems. Condition occurs prior to muffler inlet gasses exceeding 400°F (204°C) and is found at
2800 rpms during free rev or engine load.
Cause
The resonator frequencies, in combination with ambient conditions and exhaust tuning, may create
the "cold rap" condition.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Resonator > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Exhaust Resonator: > 63-66-04C > Sep > 98 > Exhaust Metallic Noise or Rap Heard on Cold Exhaust > Page 2842
A resonator assembly (Figure 1) is available to correct this condition.
Install resonator assembly (P/N 22610121) to current exhaust pipe just behind the catalytic
converter. Attach by cutting exhaust pipe 381 mm (15 in.) behind front exhaust pipe flange. Slip
expanded pipe of assembly over existing pipe. REPLACE GASKET (P/N 22545048). Attach
resonator assembly to flange of converter with three bolts. Torque bolts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft). Attach
pipe with U-clamp. Align resonator assembly in tunnel area. Verify 20 mm (0.8 in.) clearance to
heat shield. Tighten U-clamp to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
Parts Information
P/N Description
22610121 Resonator Assembly
22545048 Gasket
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
L2720 0.4 hr
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Resonator > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Exhaust Resonator: > 63-66-04C > Sep > 98
> Exhaust - Metallic Noise or Rap Heard on Cold Exhaust
Exhaust Resonator: All Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust - Metallic Noise or Rap Heard on Cold
Exhaust
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 63-66-04C
Date: September, 1998
Subject: Metallic Noise or "Cold Rap" Heard on Cold Exhaust Systems During Free Rev or Engine
Load (Install Resonator Assembly)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
This bulletin is being revised to change labor time information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 63-66-04B (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some owners may comment that a metallic noise or "cold rap" may be heard on cold exhaust
systems. Condition occurs prior to muffler inlet gasses exceeding 400°F (204°C) and is found at
2800 rpms during free rev or engine load.
Cause
The resonator frequencies, in combination with ambient conditions and exhaust tuning, may create
the "cold rap" condition.
Correction
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Exhaust Resonator: > 63-66-04C > Sep > 98
> Exhaust - Metallic Noise or Rap Heard on Cold Exhaust > Page 2848
A resonator assembly (Figure 1) is available to correct this condition.
Install resonator assembly (P/N 22610121) to current exhaust pipe just behind the catalytic
converter. Attach by cutting exhaust pipe 381 mm (15 in.) behind front exhaust pipe flange. Slip
expanded pipe of assembly over existing pipe. REPLACE GASKET (P/N 22545048). Attach
resonator assembly to flange of converter with three bolts. Torque bolts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft). Attach
pipe with U-clamp. Align resonator assembly in tunnel area. Verify 20 mm (0.8 in.) clearance to
heat shield. Tighten U-clamp to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
Parts Information
P/N Description
22610121 Resonator Assembly
22545048 Gasket
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
L2720 0.4 hr
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Powertrain Control Module: Recalls Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Product Emission 99090 - PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion #99090
99090--PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion (Install Protective PCM Shield/Cover Assembly)
Certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires Located in Fifteen U.S.
High Road Salt Corrosion States (CT, IL, IN, MA, ME, MN, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VT, and WI)
and in Ontario, Quebec and Atlantic Provinces, and Certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999
Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires located in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British
Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
Condition General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain
1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S.
high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996,
1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba,
Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories. These vehicles
have the potential to experience moisture entering the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a
result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt, Moisture entering the PCM can lead to
symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light or the engine running rough. If these
symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be able to be restarted.
Correction Dealers are to seal the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in a protective shield/cover
assembly.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM >
Page 2860
Vehicles Involved Involved are certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories built within the following VIN breakpoints:
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) of GM
Access Screen (Canada only) prior to beginning campaign repairs. [Not all vehicles within the
above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listing
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealers listing may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this listing tot he follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Important
An initial supply of covers and shields required to complete this campaign will be pre-shipped to
involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment will occur the week of May 8, 2000. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM >
Page 2861
Parts required to complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to you "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering requirements
Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency
requirement should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Service Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right-hand engine splash shield (in front of the right front tire assembly)
3. Remove the horn attachment bolt. Disconnect the wire and remove the horn.
4. Remove the PCM retainer attachment bolts (2). Slide the PCM and the retainer from the PCM
and the retainer from the PCM bracket.
5. Install the PCM cover, P/N 22623903, over the PCM with the "F" facing outward.
6. Install the PCM into the vehicle bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM >
Page 2862
7. Install the PCM shield assembly, P/N 22623904, to the vehicle. Drape the shield over the PCM
bracket. Removing the evap hose clip fastener and reinstall through the shield. Push the square cut
over the PCM attachment nut. Remove the horn wiring attachment clip and reinstall through the
shield.
8. Install the push-in retainer, P/N 10121502. through the lower front hole of the PCM shield and
then through the side hold of the PCM cover.
9. Install the Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign Identification Label
For US Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the
instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Campaign Identification Labels for US
dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by calling 1-888-549-6152 (Monday-Friday,
8:00 am to 5:00 pm EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Campaign Identification Label
For CANADA Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance
with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to
include the campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the
campaign service. This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. Additional Campaign Identification Labels for Canadian
dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm
EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Campaign
Claim Submissions.
Customer Notification
For US and CANADA
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM >
Page 2863
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
customer letter included with this bulletin.
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance. The vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection test if the recall work
is not completed.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
For US and CANADA All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this campaign
MUST be held and inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin BEFORE
customers take possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle, or owner, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make required correction according tot he instructions contained
in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the customer letter
accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since
the customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
May, 2000
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall
General Motors has decided that certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories. These vehicles have the potential to experience moisture entering the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt,
Moisture entering the PCM can lead to symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light
or the engine running rough. If these symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be
able to be restarted.
What Will Be Done
To prevent this condition from occurring, your GM dealer will seal the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) in a protective shield/cover assembly. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer
Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and to assure parts
availability. Instructions for making this correction have been sent to your dealer. Please ask your
dealer if you wish to know how much time will be needed to schedule, process and repair your
vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the number listed.
Customer Replay Card
The attached customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer
will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you no longer own
this vehicle, please let us know by completeing the reply card and returning it to us in the postage
pad envelope.
Courtesy Transportation
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM >
Page 2864
Your dealer may provide you with shuttle service or some other form of courtesy transportation
while your vehicle is at the dealership for this repair. Please refer to your Owner's Manual and your
dealer for details on Courtesy Transportation.
Emission Law Information
In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty made applicable to your vehicle
by State or Federal Law, and your right to participate in future recalls, it is recommended that you
have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Failure to do so could legally be determined to be
lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also, your vehicle may fail a state or local emission
inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
(Chevrolet, Pontiac-GMC) Division
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B >
Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B >
Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 2870
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the
PCM
Product Emission 99090 - PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion #99090
99090--PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion (Install Protective PCM Shield/Cover Assembly)
Certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires Located in Fifteen U.S.
High Road Salt Corrosion States (CT, IL, IN, MA, ME, MN, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VT, and WI)
and in Ontario, Quebec and Atlantic Provinces, and Certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999
Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires located in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British
Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
Condition General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain
1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S.
high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996,
1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba,
Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories. These vehicles
have the potential to experience moisture entering the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a
result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt, Moisture entering the PCM can lead to
symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light or the engine running rough. If these
symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be able to be restarted.
Correction Dealers are to seal the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in a protective shield/cover
assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 2875
Vehicles Involved Involved are certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories built within the following VIN breakpoints:
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) of GM
Access Screen (Canada only) prior to beginning campaign repairs. [Not all vehicles within the
above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listing
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealers listing may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this listing tot he follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Important
An initial supply of covers and shields required to complete this campaign will be pre-shipped to
involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment will occur the week of May 8, 2000. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 2876
Parts required to complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to you "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering requirements
Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency
requirement should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Service Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right-hand engine splash shield (in front of the right front tire assembly)
3. Remove the horn attachment bolt. Disconnect the wire and remove the horn.
4. Remove the PCM retainer attachment bolts (2). Slide the PCM and the retainer from the PCM
and the retainer from the PCM bracket.
5. Install the PCM cover, P/N 22623903, over the PCM with the "F" facing outward.
6. Install the PCM into the vehicle bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 2877
7. Install the PCM shield assembly, P/N 22623904, to the vehicle. Drape the shield over the PCM
bracket. Removing the evap hose clip fastener and reinstall through the shield. Push the square cut
over the PCM attachment nut. Remove the horn wiring attachment clip and reinstall through the
shield.
8. Install the push-in retainer, P/N 10121502. through the lower front hole of the PCM shield and
then through the side hold of the PCM cover.
9. Install the Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign Identification Label
For US Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the
instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Campaign Identification Labels for US
dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by calling 1-888-549-6152 (Monday-Friday,
8:00 am to 5:00 pm EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Campaign Identification Label
For CANADA Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance
with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to
include the campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the
campaign service. This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. Additional Campaign Identification Labels for Canadian
dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm
EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Campaign
Claim Submissions.
Customer Notification
For US and CANADA
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May >
00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 2878
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
customer letter included with this bulletin.
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance. The vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection test if the recall work
is not completed.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
For US and CANADA All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this campaign
MUST be held and inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin BEFORE
customers take possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle, or owner, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make required correction according tot he instructions contained
in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the customer letter
accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since
the customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
May, 2000
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall
General Motors has decided that certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories. These vehicles have the potential to experience moisture entering the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt,
Moisture entering the PCM can lead to symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light
or the engine running rough. If these symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be
able to be restarted.
What Will Be Done
To prevent this condition from occurring, your GM dealer will seal the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) in a protective shield/cover assembly. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer
Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and to assure parts
availability. Instructions for making this correction have been sent to your dealer. Please ask your
dealer if you wish to know how much time will be needed to schedule, process and repair your
vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the number listed.
Customer Replay Card
The attached customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer
will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you no longer own
this vehicle, please let us know by completeing the reply card and returning it to us in the postage
pad envelope.
Courtesy Transportation
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00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 2879
Your dealer may provide you with shuttle service or some other form of courtesy transportation
while your vehicle is at the dealership for this repair. Please refer to your Owner's Manual and your
dealer for details on Courtesy Transportation.
Emission Law Information
In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty made applicable to your vehicle
by State or Federal Law, and your right to participate in future recalls, it is recommended that you
have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Failure to do so could legally be determined to be
lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also, your vehicle may fail a state or local emission
inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
(Chevrolet, Pontiac-GMC) Division
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep
> 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B >
Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
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Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 2889
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98
> PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Powertrain Control Module: Specifications
PCM Retainer Bolts 6-9 ft.lb
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Powertrain Control Module: Locations
Location View
At the right front corner, behind the fascia
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Powertrain Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Powertrain Control Module: Connector Views
Connector View
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Connector View
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Connector View
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Connector View
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Powertrain Control Module: Description and Operation
Description
The Control Module refers to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Vehicle Control Module
(VCM). The control module is designed to maintain exhaust emission levels to Federal or California
standards while providing excellent driveability and fuel efficiency. Review the components and
wiring diagrams in order to determine which systems are controlled by each specific control
module. The control module monitors numerous engine and vehicle functions. The control module
controls the following operations:
^ Fuel control
^ Ignition Control (IC)
^ Knock Sensor (KS) system
^ Automatic transmission shift functions
^ Cruise Control Enable
^ Generator
^ Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge
^ A/C Clutch Control
^ Cooling Fan Control
Control Module Function
The Control Module supplies a buffered voltage to various sensors and switches. The input and
output devices in the control module include an analog to digital converters, signal buffers,
counters, and special drivers. The Control Module controls most components with electronic
switches which complete a ground circuit when turned ON. These switches are arranged in groups
of 4 and 7 called one of the following:
^ Quad Driver Module
^ Output Driver Modules
The surface mounted Quad Driver Module can independently control up to 4 outputs (Control
Module) terminals. The Output Driver Modules can independently control up to 7 outputs. Not all
outputs are always used.
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Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Instrument
Panel Cluster (IPC) and the PCM. If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM needs to learn the correct
password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is flashed into
the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial ignition ON. If the PC is
replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the IPC. The password learn procedure
is as follows:
1. Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition ON. The THEFT SYSTEM telltale will flash for 10
minutes.
2. When the THEFT SYSTEM telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running,
the password is learned.
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Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Replacement/Programming
Repair Instructions
NOTICE: In order to prevent internal damage to the PCM, the ignition must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting the PCM connector.
Service of the PCM should normally consist of either replacement of the PCM or EEPROM
re-programming.
If the diagnostic procedures call for the PCM to be replaced, the PCM should be checked first to
see if it is the correct part. DTC P0601 indicates the EEPROM programming has malfunctioned.
When DTC P0601 is obtained, re-program the EEPROM. The ignition should be OFF for at least
10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM so the IAC valve has time to move to the
engine OFF position.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Turn the ignition switch OFF to prevent internal PCM damage when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to the PCM (for example, battery cable, PCM pigtail, PCM fuse, jumper cables,
etc.). The ignition switch should be OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting the power to
the PCM so the IAC valve has time to move to the engine OFF position.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the RH engine splash shield. 3. Disconnect
the horn electrical connector. 4. Remove the horn attaching bolt and the horn.
NOTICE: Do not touch the PCM connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board in
order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) damage. Do not remove the integrated
circuit boards from the carrier.
5. Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors (1).
6. Remove the PCM retainer attaching bolts (1).
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7. Slide the PCM and the retainer (1) from the PCM bracket (2).
8. Remove the retainer (1) from the PCM (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Remove the new PCM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the
same number or updated number as the malfunctioning PCM.
1. Slide the PCM (2) into the PCM retainer (1). 2. Slide the PCM and the retainer (1) into the PCM
bracket (2) slots. 3. Install the PCM retainer attaching bolts (1). Tighten the PCM retainer attaching
bolts to 8-12 Nm (6-9 lb ft).
NOTICE: Do not touch the PCM connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board in
order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) damage. Do not remove the integrated
circuit boards from the carrier.
4. Connect the PCM electrical connectors (1). 5. Install the horn and the horn attaching bolt. 6.
Connect the horn electrical connector. 7. Install the RH engine splash shield. 8. Connect the
negative battery cable. 9. Reprogram the PCM and perform the Crankshaft Position System
Variation Learning Procedure.
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Knock Sensor Module: Description and Operation
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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and Instructions > Page 2970
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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and Instructions > Page 2971
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Fuel Pump Relay
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the relay center cover. 2. Remove the fuel pump relay.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump relay. 2. Install the relay center cover.
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Ignition Control Module: Specifications
Cover Bolts 16 ft.lb
Screws 35 in.lb
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Ignition Control Module: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Ignition Control Module (C1) (LN2)
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Ignition Control Module (C2) (LN2)
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Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
This system uses the same circuits between the ICM and the PCM that distributor type systems
use. Following is a brief description for each of the IC circuits.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Activity (7X reference) - The CKP sensor generates a signal to
the ICM which results in a reference pulse (square wave signal) being sent to the PCM. The PCM
uses this signal to calculate crankshaft position, engine speed and injector pulse width. The engine
will not start or run if this circuit is open or grounded.
Reference Low - This wire is grounded through the ICM and insures that the ground circuit has no
voltage drop between the ICM and the PCM which could affect performance. The PCM compares
voltage pulses on the 7X or reference input to those on this circuit, ignoring any pulses that appear
on both. A pulse that appears on the reference low circuit alone is assumed to be caused by Radio
Frequency Interference (RFI).
Ignition Control (IC) 1 & 2 - The PCM sends the ignition control pulse to the ICM on these circuits.
These signals are similar to the 7X reference pulse square wave except that the PCM uses sensor
inputs to determine the pulse timing to control spark advance. When the PCM receives the 7X
signal, it will determine which pair of cylinders will be fired (1 & 4 or 2 & 3). It then tells the ICM
which cylinder to fire through the ignition control circuits.
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Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the ignition coils from the module (1). 4. Remove the module from the assembly plate.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the module to the assembly plate 2. Install the ignition coils. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4.
Connect the negative battery cable.
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Information and Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 2999
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3001
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Information and Instructions > Page 3002
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 88 in.lb
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3055
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3059
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Information and Instructions > Page 3060
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3063
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3066
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (LN2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT: Preform a Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure any time you
make a change to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank sensor to
crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect a misfire at all speeds and loads accurately.
Resulting in possibly setting a false misfire DTC. Removing a part for inspection and then
reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could set if you do not
perform this procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used to correlate crankshaft to camshaft position so that
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the
injector. The CMP sensor is also used to determine which cylinder is misfiring when misfire is
present. If the PCM receives an intermittent signal from the CMP, then the CMP Resync Counter
will increment. When the PCM cannot use the information from the CMP sensor, a DTC is set and
the PCM will fuel the engine using the Alternating Synchronous Double Fire (ASDF) method. This
sensor has no effect on the EI system.
A malfunction in the CMP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0341 or P0342
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the R.H. tire assembly. 3. Remove
the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector. 4. Remove the CMP sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. 2. Install the CMP sensor electrical connector. 3.
Install the R.H. tire assembly. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Technical Service Bulletins Instruments Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-010
Date: March, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Erratic and Incorrect Engine Temperature Reading (Bleed Air from Cooling System)
Models: 1998-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-99 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition Some owners may comment about low coolant temperature gauge readings and when
performing diagnosis, the technician may notice coolant temperature readings below the actual
coolant temperature.
Cause There may be a small pocket of air trapped in the coolant temperature sensor fitting on the
radiator inlet pipe. This air pocket insulates the coolant temperature sensor from contact with the
coolant flow causing low temperature gauge readings.
Correction REMOVE THE TRAPPED AIR WITH THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
Caution:
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably
higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank
cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil
instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the
fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
1. With the engine off and at ambient temperature, slowly remove the surge tank cap to relieve
pressure from the cooling system.
2. Locate the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
Notice:
DO NOT APPLY TORQUE DIRECTLY TO THE RADIATOR INLET PIPE! Always use a back up
wrench on the coolant temperature sensor fitting to prevent damage to the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
3. Observe the gap between the bottom of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor and the top
of the hex on the fitting brazed to the radiator inlet pipe. It may be helpful at this point to mark the
coolant temperature sensor thread with a reference mark 5 mm (0.196 in) down from the bottom of
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the hex on the sensor.
4. Slowly loosen the sensor (do not fully remove it) until coolant begins to weep out of the threads.
This will allow any trapped air to escape and will ensure that the coolant is in contact with the
sensor element.
5. Retighten the Coolant Temperature Sensor until there is a 5 mm (0.196 in) gap between the
bottom of the hex on the sensor and the top of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor fitting.
6. Inspect the coolant level in the surge tank, if the coolant is low, add additional coolant to bring
the level up to the "Full Cold" mark on the surge tank. Install the surge tank cap.
7. Start the vehicle and inspect the Coolant Temperature Sensor for leaks and correct temperature
gauge readings.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor 0peration Labor Time
J6368 0.3 hr
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Sensor 25 Nm
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Component Location Views
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (3) is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor through a resistor in the PCM and monitors the
terminal voltage. Since this forms a series circuit to ground through the ECT sensor, high sensor
resistance (low temperature) will result in high PCM terminal voltage. When the resistance of the
ECT sensor is low (high temperature), the terminal voltage will be drawn lower. This terminal
voltage indicates engine coolant temperature to the PCM.
A hard fault in the ECT sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0117 or P0118. Remember, these
DTCs indicate a malfunction in the engine coolant temperature circuit, so proper use of the DTC
table may lead to either repairing a wiring problem or replacing the sensor, to properly repair a
problem.
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect the
operation of the fuel control system.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Relieve the coolant system pressure. 3. Disconnect the ECT
sensor electrical connector. 4. Carefully back out the ECT sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer. 2. Install the ECT sensor. Tighten the ECT sensor to 25 Nm
(18.5 lb. ft.). 3. Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector. 4. Refill the engine coolant system.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Bolt 88 in.lb
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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3155
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor provides a signal to the electronic Ignition Control Module
(ICM), which the PCM uses as a reference to calculate RPM and crankshaft position. A fault in the
CKP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0335.
This system uses a magnetic CKP sensor, mounted remotely from the ICM, which protrudes into
the block within approximately 0.050 of the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel cast
into the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it, six of which are equally spaced (60 degrees
apart). A seventh slot, is spaced 10 degrees from one of the other slots and serves to generate a
sync-pulse. As the reluctor rotates as part of the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of
the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
Based on the CKP sensor pulses, the ICM sends 7X reference signals to the PCM which is used to
indicate crankshaft position and engine speed. The ICM continues to send these reference pulse to
the PCM at a rate of seven per 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. This signal is called the 7X
reference because it occurs 7 times per crankshaft revolution. The 7X reference signal is
necessary for the PCM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors.
By comparing the time between pulses, the PCM can recognize the pulse representing the seventh
slot (sync pulse) which starts the calculation of ignition coil sequencing. The second crank pulse
following the sync pulse signals the PCM to fire the #2-3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse
signals the PCM to fire the #1-4 ignition coil.
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crankshaft
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set. Removing a part for inspection and
then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could be set if this
procedure is not performed. Refer to the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure for the Crankshaft
Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
See Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis for further information.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
harness connector at the module. 3. Remove the CKP sensor mounting bolt (2). 4. Remove the
CKP sensor from the engine (1). 5. Inspect the CKP sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage.
Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (1) into the block. 2. Install the CKP sensor
mounting bolt (2). Tighten the CKP sensor mounting bolts to 8 Nm (71 lb in). 3. Install the CKP
sensor harness connector. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn
Procedure
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set.
Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A
false DTC P0300 could be set if this procedure is not performed.
The learn procedure is required after the following service procedures have been performed,
regardless of whether or not DTC P1336 is set:
^ PCM replacement.
^ Engine replacement.
^ Crankshaft replacement.
^ Crankshaft position sensor replacement.
^ Any engine repair(s) which disturbs the crankshaft/harmonic balancer to the crankshaft position
sensor relationship.
CAUTION: When performing the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure always
set the vehicle parking brake and block the drive wheels in order to prevent Personal injury.
Release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. Once the learn procedure is
completed, engine control will be returned to the operator and the engine will respond to throttle
position.
IMPORTANT: The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. The scan tool connection at
the DLC is clean and tight before starting the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning
Procedure.
1. Close the hood. 2. Block the drive wheels and set the vehicle parking brake. 3. Put the vehicle in
Park or Neutral. 4. Turn all the accessories OFF. 5. Install a scan tool. 6. Start and run the engine
until it is at normal operating temperature 85°C (185°F). 7. With the engine still running, enable the
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure with the scan tool. 8. Press and hold the
brake pedal firmly and raise the engine speed to the specified value, RELEASING the throttle as
soon as the engine cuts out. 9. Verify with the scan tool that the crankshaft variation has been
learned.
Perform this procedure up to 10 times. If the PCM will not learn the variation, a DTC P1336 should
be set. Refer to DTC P1336 CKP System Variation Not Learned for diagnosis. See: Computers
and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Level Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
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Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
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Page 3169
Fuel Level Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel level sensor is attached to the modular fuel sender assembly. The resistance of the fuel
sensor changes with fuel level by means of a rheostat. Its range is from 90 ohms with a full tank to
0 ohms with an empty tank. This resistance value is sent to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) and
displayed on the fuel gauge. It is also sent to the PCM over UART serial data, and used for
evaporative emissions system diagnosis.
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Fuel Level Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Drain fuel tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. 4. Remove the fuel
sender assembly. 5. Remove the bumper from modular fuel sender assembly. 6. Remove the fuel
level sensor (1) from modular fuel sender.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Fuel level sensor (1) to the modular fuel sender. 2. Install the bumper to modular fuel sender
assembly. 3. Install the fuel sender assembly. 4. Install the fuel tank. 5. Refill the fuel tank. 6. Install
the negative battery cable. 7. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
7.1. Turn the ignition to the ON position for two seconds. 7.2. Turn the ignition to the OFF position
for ten seconds. 7.3. Turn the ignition to the ON position. 7.4. Check for fuel leaks.
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Fuel Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel tank pressure sensor is similar to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. It is used
to measure the difference between the air pressure (or vacuum) in the fuel tank and the outside air
pressure. The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference and a ground to the sensor and the sensor sends a
voltage signal between 0.1 and 4.9 volts back to the PCM. When the air pressure in the fuel tank is
equal to the outside air pressure, as when the fuel cap is removed, the output voltage of the sensor
will be from 1.3 to 1.7 volts.
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Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 3179
Component Location Views
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Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 3180
Component Location Views
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3183
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3190
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Description and Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
the temperature of air entering the engine), similar to the ECT sensor. Low temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F). The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the IAT sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and monitors the terminal voltage. The voltage will be high when the intake air is cold, and
low when the intake air is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM knows the intake air
temperature. This input is used in starting and running fuel control calculations. A fault in the IAT
sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0112 or DTC P0113.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector. 3. Carefully
remove the IAT sensor from air cleaner outlet duct.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the IAT sensor into the air cleaner outlet duct. 2. Connect the IAT sensor electrical
connector.
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Knock Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 12-16 ft.lb
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Wiring Diagram
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor
Purpose
Varying octane levels in the gasoline can cause a detonation in performance engines. Detonation
is sometimes called a spark knock. A spark knock causes the pistons and the rings to vibrate and
rattle, sometimes producing a knocking sound.
In order to control a spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) is used. This system is designed to retard
the spark timing up to 15 degrees in order to reduce a spark knock in the engine. This allows the
engine to use a maximum spark advance in order to improve driveability and fuel economy.
The PCM uses information from the MAP and coolant sensor in addition to the RPM in order to
calculate the spark advance as follows:
^ Low MAP output voltage equals more spark advance.
^ Cold engine equals more spark advance.
^ High MAP output voltage equals less spark advance.
^ Hot engine equals less spark advance. A low MAP output or high resistance in the Engine
Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit could cause detonation. A high MAP output or low
resistance in the coolant sensor circuit could cause poor performance.
Operation
The KS system has two major components:
^ The KS module.
^ The Knock Sensor (KS).
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
The KS detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is mounted in the
engine block near the cylinders. The sensor produces an AC output voltage which increases with
the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM then adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce the spark knock.
A malfunction in the KS circuit or module will set a DTC P0325.
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Knock Sensor Wiring Harness Connector
Knock Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the Knock Sensor wiring harness connector from the knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock
sensor from the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. After cleaning the threads thoroughly, install the knock sensor into the engine block. Tighten the
knock sensor to 16-22 Nm (12-16 lb ft). 2. Install the KS wiring harness connector to the knock
sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3288
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Description and Operation
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor measures the changes in the intake manifold
pressure which result from engine load and speed changes, and converts this measurement into a
voltage output.
The PCM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the MAP sensor. As the manifold pressure changes,
the electrical resistance of the sensor also changes. By monitoring the sensor output voltage, the
PCM can determine the manifold pressure. A higher pressure, low vacuum (high voltage) requires
more fuel, while a lower pressure, higher vacuum (low voltage) requires less fuel.
A closed throttle on when the engine is decelerating would produce a relatively low MAP output,
while a wide open throttle would produce a high output. Manifold absolute pressure is the opposite
of what you would measure on a vacuum gauge. When manifold pressure is high, vacuum is low.
The MAP sensor is also used to measure barometric pressure under certain conditions, which
allows the PCM to automatically adjust for different altitudes.
A high or low voltage fault in the MAP sensor circuit should set a DTC P0107 or DTC P0108. If the
MAP sensor sends an intermittent zero voltage signal to the PCM, a DTC P0106 will set.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector. 3. Remove the
MAP sensor (1) from the intake manifold (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAP sensor (1) to the intake manifold (2). 2. Connect the MAP sensor electrical
connector. 3. Install the throttle body.
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Oil Pressure Sensor: Locations
At the rear center of the engine
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Oil Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the engine oil pressure
sensor (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor (1). 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Lower the
vehicle.
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Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Torque 41 Nm
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Oxygen Sensor: Locations Post Converter Oxygen Sensor
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Oxygen Sensor: Locations Pre-Converter Oxygen Sensor
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Oxygen Sensor 1
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Oxygen Sensor 1
The Oxygen Sensor (O2S 1) is mounted in the exhaust system where it can monitor the oxygen
content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen content in the exhaust reacts with the sensor to
produce a voltage output. This voltage ranges from approximately 0.1 volt (high oxygen-lean
mixture) to 0.9 volt (low oxygen-rich mixture). This voltage can be measured with a scan tool.
By monitoring the voltage output of the O2S 1, the PCM will know what fuel mixture command to
give to the injectors.
- Lean mixture-low O2S 1 voltage = rich command
- Rich mixture-high O2S 1 voltage = lean command
The O2S 1, if open, should set a DTC P0134. A constant low voltage in the sensor circuit should
set a DTC P0131. A constant high voltage in the circuit should set a DTC P0132. DTCs P0131 and
P0132 could also be set as a result of fuel system problems. See the DTC tables for conditions that
can cause a lean or rich system.
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Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
The Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2) is used to monitor the oxygen storage capability of the
catalytic converter. Similar to the O2S 1, the HO2S 2 reacts with the oxygen content in the exhaust
stream to produce a voltage signal, only after the catalytic converter. This voltage ranges from
approximately 0.1 volt (high oxygen-lean mixture) to 0.9 volt (low oxygen-rich mixture). Unlike the
O2S 1, with a good catalytic converter, the HO2S 2 is normal when its activity appears lazy or
inactive. The PCM compares readings from both the front O2S 1 and the HO2S 2 to determine the
catalyst efficiency and will illuminate the MIL if this efficiency falls below a calibrated level.
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Sensor 1
Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Oxygen Sensor 1
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: The oxygen sensor uses a permanently attached pigtail and connector. Do not remove
the pigtail from the oxygen sensor. Damage to or removal of the pigtail of connector could affect
proper operation of the oxygen sensor.
IMPORTANT: Take care when handling the Oxygen Sensor (02S 1). The in-line electrical
connector and louvered end must be kept free of grease, dirt or other contaminants. Avoid using
cleaning solvents of any type. DO NOT drop or roughly handle the O2S 1.
IMPORTANT: The 02S 1 may be difficult to remove when the engine temperature is below 48°C
(120°F).
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF 2. Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor 1 electrical connector.
IMPORTANT: Do not use excessive force when removing the 02S sensor.
3. Carefully remove the Oxygen Sensor 1.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. The
compound consists of a liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite will burn away, but the glass
beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will already have
the compound applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from an engine, and if for any reason
it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have an anti-seize compound applied before reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads to the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound, if necessary. 2. Install the
Oxygen Sensor 1. Tighten the 02S 1 41 Nm (30 lb ft). 3. Connect the Oxygen Sensor 1 electrical
connector.
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Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Heated Oxygen Sensor 2
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: The Heated Oxygen Sensors each use a permanently attached pigtail and connector.
This pigtail should not be removed from the heated oxygen sensor. Damage or removal of the
pigtail or connector could affect proper operation of the heated oxygen sensor.
IMPORTANT: Take care when handling the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 (HO2S 2). The in-line
electrical connector and louvered end like the 02S 1 must be kept free of grease, dirt or other
contaminants. Avoid using cleaning solvents of any type. DO NOT drop or roughly handle the
HO2S 2.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the HO2S 2 electrical connector.
NOTICE: The use of excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust pipe.
3. Carefully remove the rear heated oxygen sensor 2.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the HO2S 2 sensor threads. The
compound consists of a liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite will burn away, but the glass
beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will already have
the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from the exhaust, and if for any
reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have an anti-seize compound applied before
reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads of the HO2S 2 with anti-seize compound, if necessary. 2. Install the HO2S 2.
Tighten the HO2S 2 to 41 Nm (30 lb ft). 3. Connect the HO2S 2 electrical connector.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
TP Screws 3 Nm
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Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3397
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3398
Wiring Diagram
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3399
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
TP Sensor Service
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor (2) is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the
throttle body. The TP sensor electrical circuit consists of a 5 volt supply line and a ground line, both
provided by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and a signal line to the PCM. By monitoring the
voltage on this signal line, the PCM can calculate throttle position angle in a percentage. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor also
changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low (approximately 0.6 volt).
As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage
should be near 5 volts.
The PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or
loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle,
because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A high or low voltage problem in the TP sensor
circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123. The PCM also has the capability of setting a
DTC P0121 if the sensor is reading out of range. Once a diagnostic trouble code is set, the PCM
will use a default value for the TP sensor, and some vehicle performance will return.
See TP Sensor Replacement for replacement of the TP sensor. The TP sensor is not adjustable.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3400
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the PCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Tables for testing information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3401
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
TP Sensor Service
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator. 2. Remove the throttle body. 3. Remove the TP sensor
attaching screws (1). 4. Remove the TP sensor (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed (idle) position, install the throttle position sensor (2)
on the throttle body assembly.
IMPORTANT: Install the new TP sensor attaching screws when replacing the TP sensor.
2. Install the two TP sensor screws (1). Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (27 lb in). 3. Install the throttle
body. 4. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 3410
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 3411
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 3417
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 3418
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3419
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3420
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 3423
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 3424
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 3425
Diagnostic Chart
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 3430
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 3431
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 3432
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 3433
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3436
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3437
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3438
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3439
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3440
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3441
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3442
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3443
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Information and Instructions > Page 3444
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Information and Instructions > Page 3445
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (3T40)
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Wiring Diagram
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a permanent magnet generator in the transaxle which sends
an AC voltage signal to the PCM, which the PCM converts to Kilometers Per Hour (km/h) and Miles
Per Hour (MPH). There are several different types of vehicle speed sensors.
Refer to Automatic Transmission for more information.
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Location Views
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3509
Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor
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3510
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the system fuel pressure. 3. Drain fuel tank. 4.
Remove the fuel tank. 5. Remove the electrical connector from the fuel tank pressure sensor. 6.
Remove the fuel tank pressure sensor (1) from modular fuel sender.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new fuel tank pressure sensor (1) to modular fuel sender. 2. Install the electrical
connector to fuel tank pressure sensor. 3. Install the fuel tank. 4. Refill tank. 5. Install the negative
battery cable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
TP Screws 3 Nm
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3514
Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Information and Instructions > Page 3527
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3542
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Information and Instructions > Page 3543
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3549
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
TP Sensor Service
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor (2) is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the
throttle body. The TP sensor electrical circuit consists of a 5 volt supply line and a ground line, both
provided by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and a signal line to the PCM. By monitoring the
voltage on this signal line, the PCM can calculate throttle position angle in a percentage. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor also
changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low (approximately 0.6 volt).
As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage
should be near 5 volts.
The PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or
loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle,
because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A high or low voltage problem in the TP sensor
circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123. The PCM also has the capability of setting a
DTC P0121 if the sensor is reading out of range. Once a diagnostic trouble code is set, the PCM
will use a default value for the TP sensor, and some vehicle performance will return.
See TP Sensor Replacement for replacement of the TP sensor. The TP sensor is not adjustable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the PCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Tables for testing information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
TP Sensor Service
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator. 2. Remove the throttle body. 3. Remove the TP sensor
attaching screws (1). 4. Remove the TP sensor (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed (idle) position, install the throttle position sensor (2)
on the throttle body assembly.
IMPORTANT: Install the new TP sensor attaching screws when replacing the TP sensor.
2. Install the two TP sensor screws (1). Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (27 lb in). 3. Install the throttle
body. 4. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 88 in.lb
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Instructions > Page 3565
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (LN2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT: Preform a Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure any time you
make a change to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank sensor to
crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect a misfire at all speeds and loads accurately.
Resulting in possibly setting a false misfire DTC. Removing a part for inspection and then
reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could set if you do not
perform this procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used to correlate crankshaft to camshaft position so that
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the
injector. The CMP sensor is also used to determine which cylinder is misfiring when misfire is
present. If the PCM receives an intermittent signal from the CMP, then the CMP Resync Counter
will increment. When the PCM cannot use the information from the CMP sensor, a DTC is set and
the PCM will fuel the engine using the Alternating Synchronous Double Fire (ASDF) method. This
sensor has no effect on the EI system.
A malfunction in the CMP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0341 or P0342
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the R.H. tire assembly. 3. Remove
the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector. 4. Remove the CMP sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. 2. Install the CMP sensor electrical connector. 3.
Install the R.H. tire assembly. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Bolt 88 in.lb
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Instructions > Page 3630
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Instructions > Page 3631
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 3636
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 3637
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor provides a signal to the electronic Ignition Control Module
(ICM), which the PCM uses as a reference to calculate RPM and crankshaft position. A fault in the
CKP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0335.
This system uses a magnetic CKP sensor, mounted remotely from the ICM, which protrudes into
the block within approximately 0.050 of the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel cast
into the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it, six of which are equally spaced (60 degrees
apart). A seventh slot, is spaced 10 degrees from one of the other slots and serves to generate a
sync-pulse. As the reluctor rotates as part of the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of
the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
Based on the CKP sensor pulses, the ICM sends 7X reference signals to the PCM which is used to
indicate crankshaft position and engine speed. The ICM continues to send these reference pulse to
the PCM at a rate of seven per 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. This signal is called the 7X
reference because it occurs 7 times per crankshaft revolution. The 7X reference signal is
necessary for the PCM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors.
By comparing the time between pulses, the PCM can recognize the pulse representing the seventh
slot (sync pulse) which starts the calculation of ignition coil sequencing. The second crank pulse
following the sync pulse signals the PCM to fire the #2-3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse
signals the PCM to fire the #1-4 ignition coil.
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crankshaft
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set. Removing a part for inspection and
then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could be set if this
procedure is not performed. Refer to the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure for the Crankshaft
Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
See Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis for further information.
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Position Sensor Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
harness connector at the module. 3. Remove the CKP sensor mounting bolt (2). 4. Remove the
CKP sensor from the engine (1). 5. Inspect the CKP sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage.
Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (1) into the block. 2. Install the CKP sensor
mounting bolt (2). Tighten the CKP sensor mounting bolts to 8 Nm (71 lb in). 3. Install the CKP
sensor harness connector. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn
Procedure
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set.
Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A
false DTC P0300 could be set if this procedure is not performed.
The learn procedure is required after the following service procedures have been performed,
regardless of whether or not DTC P1336 is set:
^ PCM replacement.
^ Engine replacement.
^ Crankshaft replacement.
^ Crankshaft position sensor replacement.
^ Any engine repair(s) which disturbs the crankshaft/harmonic balancer to the crankshaft position
sensor relationship.
CAUTION: When performing the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure always
set the vehicle parking brake and block the drive wheels in order to prevent Personal injury.
Release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. Once the learn procedure is
completed, engine control will be returned to the operator and the engine will respond to throttle
position.
IMPORTANT: The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. The scan tool connection at
the DLC is clean and tight before starting the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning
Procedure.
1. Close the hood. 2. Block the drive wheels and set the vehicle parking brake. 3. Put the vehicle in
Park or Neutral. 4. Turn all the accessories OFF. 5. Install a scan tool. 6. Start and run the engine
until it is at normal operating temperature 85°C (185°F). 7. With the engine still running, enable the
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure with the scan tool. 8. Press and hold the
brake pedal firmly and raise the engine speed to the specified value, RELEASING the throttle as
soon as the engine cuts out. 9. Verify with the scan tool that the crankshaft variation has been
learned.
Perform this procedure up to 10 times. If the PCM will not learn the variation, a DTC P1336 should
be set. Refer to DTC P1336 CKP System Variation Not Learned for diagnosis. See: Computers
and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Bulletins > Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised Replacement Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised
Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 02 - Steering
Bulletin No.: 01-02-35-010
Date: November, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Lock Cylinder Replacement
Models: 1995-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure in the Steering
Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The following information was omitted from the Service Manual:
If you replace the ignition lock cylinder, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the system
enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle. During
the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes. The instrument
cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle. Ensure that
the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the ignition switch
before the indicator stops flashing, ensure that you repeat the long tamper cycle from the
beginning.
Important:
Due to component variability, the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system must have the learn
procedure performed regardless, even if the vehicle starts on the first ignition cycle after a VTD
repair.
All codes in the theft deterrent module must be cleared for a relearn.
DISCLAIMER
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Knock Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 12-16 ft.lb
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Wiring Diagram
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor
Purpose
Varying octane levels in the gasoline can cause a detonation in performance engines. Detonation
is sometimes called a spark knock. A spark knock causes the pistons and the rings to vibrate and
rattle, sometimes producing a knocking sound.
In order to control a spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) is used. This system is designed to retard
the spark timing up to 15 degrees in order to reduce a spark knock in the engine. This allows the
engine to use a maximum spark advance in order to improve driveability and fuel economy.
The PCM uses information from the MAP and coolant sensor in addition to the RPM in order to
calculate the spark advance as follows:
^ Low MAP output voltage equals more spark advance.
^ Cold engine equals more spark advance.
^ High MAP output voltage equals less spark advance.
^ Hot engine equals less spark advance. A low MAP output or high resistance in the Engine
Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit could cause detonation. A high MAP output or low
resistance in the coolant sensor circuit could cause poor performance.
Operation
The KS system has two major components:
^ The KS module.
^ The Knock Sensor (KS).
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
The KS detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is mounted in the
engine block near the cylinders. The sensor produces an AC output voltage which increases with
the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM then adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce the spark knock.
A malfunction in the KS circuit or module will set a DTC P0325.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3690
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Knock Sensor Wiring Harness Connector
Knock Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the Knock Sensor wiring harness connector from the knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock
sensor from the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. After cleaning the threads thoroughly, install the knock sensor into the engine block. Tighten the
knock sensor to 16-22 Nm (12-16 lb ft). 2. Install the KS wiring harness connector to the knock
sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Pressure
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel System Pressure
Fuel System Pressure
Key On Engine Off 41-47 psi
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Pressure > Page 3696
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Volume
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3697
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3698
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3699
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3700
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3701
Diagnostic Chart
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will turn ON the
in-tank fuel pump. The in-tank fuel pump will remain ON as long as the engine is cranking or
running and the PCM is receiving reference pulses. If there are no reference pulses, the PCM will
turn OFF the in-tank fuel pump for 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON or for 2 seconds
after the engine stops running. The in-tank fuel pump is an electric pump within an integral
reservoir. The in-tank fuel pump supplies fuel through an in-line fuel filter to the fuel rail assembly.
The fuel pump is designed to provide fuel at a pressure above the pressure that is needed by the
fuel injectors. A fuel pressure regulator, attached to the fuel rail assembly, keeps the fuel available
to the fuel injectors at a regulated pressure. The unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank by a
separate fuel return pipe.
TEST DESCRIPTION
The number(s) below refer(s) to the step number(s) on the Diagnostic Table.
2. In order to relieve the fuel pressure, go to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure When the ignition is
ON and the fuel pump is running, the fuel pressure
indicated by the fuel pressure gauge should be 284-325 kPa (41-47 psi).
3. A fuel system that drops more than 5 psi in 10 minutes has a leak in one or more of the following
areas:
^ The fuel pump check valve
^ The fuel pump flex pipe
^ The valve or valve seat within the fuel pressure regulator
^ The fuel injector(s)
5. Fuel pressure that drops-off during acceleration, cruise or hard cornering may cause a lean
condition. A lean condition can cause a loss of power,
surging, or a misfire. You can use a scan tool in order to diagnose a lean condition. If an extremely
lean condition occurs, the oxygen sensors will stop toggling. The oxygen sensor output voltage(s)
will drop below 500 mV. Also, the fuel injector pulse width will increase.
8. When the engine is idling, the manifold pressure is low (high vacuum). This low pressure (high
vacuum) is applied to the fuel pressure regulator
diaphragm. The low pressure (high vacuum) will offset the pressure being applied to the fuel
pressure regulator diaphragm by the spring inside of
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3702
the fuel pressure regulator. This will cause lower fuel pressure. The fuel pressure at idle will vary
slightly as the barometric pressure changes, but the fuel pressure at idle should always be less
than the fuel pressure noted in Step 2 with the engine turned OFF.
12. A rich condition may result from the fuel pressure being above 325 kPa (47 psi). A rich
condition can cause a DTC P0132 or a DTC P0172 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with rich conditions can include hard starting (followed by
black smoke) and a strong sulfur smell in the exhaust.
13. This test determines if the high fuel pressure is due to a restricted fuel return pipe or if the high
fuel pressure is due to a malfunctioning fuel
pressure regulator.
15. Fuel pressure being below 284 kPa (41 psi) can cause a lean condition. A lean condition may
cause a DTC P0131 or a DTC P0171 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with lean conditions can include hard starting (when the
engine is cold), a hesitation, poor driveability, a lack of power, surging, and misfiring.
16. Restricting the fuel flow causes the fuel pressure to rise above the regulated fuel pressure.
Using a scan tool in order to pressurize the system, the
fuel pressure should rise above 325 kPa (47 psi) as the gauge outlet hose is pinched.
22. Check the spark plug that is associated with a particular fuel injector for fouling or saturation in
order to determine if that particular fuel injector is
leaking.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed >
System Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter
Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter
Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 3718
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 3724
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3725
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the upper air cleaner screws. 2. Remove the upper air cleaner cover (1). 3. Remove the
air cleaner filter (2) from lower air cleaner housing (3). 4. Inspect the air cleaner filter for dust, dirt
and water. 5. Replace if required. Refer to Maintenance.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the air cleaner filter (2) into the lower air cleaner housing (3). 2. Install the upper air
cleaner cover (1) to lower air cleaner housing. 3. Install the upper air cleaner screws. Tighten the
upper air cleaner cover screws to 3 Nm (26 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Procedure
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank pressure (do not tighten at this time). 2.
Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Start
and run the engine until the fuel supply remaining in the fuel pipes is consumed. Engage the starter
for 3.0 seconds in order to assure relief of
any remaining pressure.
6. Raise the vehicle. 7. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9.
Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order >
Component Information > Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order: Specifications Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order .........................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 1-3-4-2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Number One Cylinder: Locations Number 1 Cylinder Location
NUMBER ONE CYLINDER LOCATION
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Locations
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug Gap ...................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 1.01 mm (.040 in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap > Page 3749
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Torque
Spark Plug Torque ...............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 3750
Spark Plug: Application and ID
AC Type ...............................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 41-928
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 3751
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Worn or dirty plugs may give satisfactory operation at idling speed, but under operating conditions
they frequently fail. Faulty plugs are indicated in a number of ways: poor fuel economy, power loss,
loss of speed, hard starting and general poor engine performance.
Spark plugs may also fail due to carbon fouling, excessive gap, or a broken insulator.
Fouled plugs Fouled plugs are identified by black carbon deposits. The black deposits are usually
the result of slow-speed driving and short runs where sufficient engine operating temperature is
seldom reached. Worn pistons, rings, faulty ignition, over-rich air/fuel mixture and spark plugs
which are too cold will also result in carbon deposits.
Excessive gap Excessive gap wear, on plugs of low mileage, usually indicates the engine is
operating at high speeds or loads that are consistently greater than normal or that a plug which is
too hot is being used. Electrode wear may also be the result of plug overheating, caused by
combustion gases leaking past the threads, due to insufficient spark plug torque or too much spark
plug torque. An excessively lean air/fuel mixture will also result in excessive electrode wear.
Broken insulator Broken insulators are usually the result of improper installation or carelessness
when regapping the plug. Broken upper insulators usually result from a poor fitting wrench or an
outside impact. The cracked insulator may not show up right away, but will as soon as oil or
moisture penetrates the crack. The crack is usually just below the crimped part of the shell and
may not be visible.
Broken lower insulators usually result from carelessness when regapping and generally are visible.
This type of break may result from the plug operating too "hot," which may happen in periods of
high-speed operation or under heavy loads. When regapping a spark plug, always make the gap
adjustment by bending the ground (side) electrode. Spark plugs with broken insulators should
always be replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Conventional Ignition
Spark Plug: Service and Repair Conventional Ignition
Description
Description
Removal Procedure
1. Turn the ignition key OFF. 2. Remove foreign material from around the spark plug holes. 3.
Remove the wires from the plugs. 4. Remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket.
Installation Procedure
1. Adjust the spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gauge. While gapping the plug
be sure to keep the platinum pads aligned to
ensure maximum plug life.
2 Install new plugs and tighten properly.
3. Reapply dielectric lubricant to the insulator boot. Tighten to 18 Nm (13 lb ft). 4. Reattach the
boots to the plugs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Conventional Ignition > Page 3754
Spark Plug: Service and Repair Integrated Direct Ignition
Removal Procedure
Tools Required
J 36011 Spark Plug Connector Assembly Removal Tool
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the integrated Direct Ignition (IDI) assembly 4
bolts and connector. 3. Remove by pulling straight up on the housing. 4. Use the J 36011 to
remove connector assembly(s) is stuck to the spark plugs. Use the tools by first twisting then
pulling up on the connector
assembly.
5. Remove the debris from the area around the spark plugs. 6. Remove the spark plugs using a
spark plug socket.
Installation Procedure
1. Adjust the spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gauge. While gapping the plug
be sure to keep the platinum pads aligned to
ensure maximum plug life.
2. Hand start the spark plugs into the cylinder head and tighten. Tighten the plugs to 18 Nm (13 lb
ft). 3. Reinstall onto the IDI any spark plug boot connector assembly that stuck to a spark plug.
^ Check to be sure the spring terminal is inside the boot.
^ Reapply dielectric lubricant to the insulator boot.
4. Locate the IDI assembly over the spark plugs and push straight down. 5. Remove any loose
lubricant that is present on the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts.
IMPORTANT: Hand start the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts.
6. Apply threadlocker onto the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts. Tighten the bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb
ft). 7. Install the electrical connector. 8. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression
Check > System Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading
should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating
temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression
Check > System Information > Specifications > Page 3758
Compression Check: Testing and Inspection
ENGINE COMPRESSION TEST
Perform the following steps in order to conduct a compression test for VIN 4: 1. Conduct the
following steps in order to check cylinder compression:
1.1. Engine should be at room temperature.
1.2. Disconnect wiring from the ignition module.
1.3. Remove the spark plugs.
1.4. Throttle body valve should be wide open.
1.5. Battery should be at or near full charge.
2. For each cylinder, crank engine through four compression strokes. 3. The lowest reading
cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest. 4. No cylinder reading should be less
than 689 kPa (100 psi).
IMPORTANT: The results of a compression test will fall into the following categories: ^
Normal-Compression builds up quickly and evenly to specified compression on each cylinder.
^ Piston Rings-Compression low on first stroke. Tends to build up on following strokes but does not
reach normal. Improves considerably with addition of oil.
^ Valves-Compression low on first stroke. Does not tend to build up on the following strokes. Does
not improve much with addition of oil. Use approximately three squirts from a plunger-type oiler.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
This engine uses hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustment is necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3767
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3768
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3769
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3770
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3771
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3772
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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> Page 3812
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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> Page 3827
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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> Page 3832
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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> Page 3833
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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> Page 3838
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
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> Page 3839
Wiring Diagram
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Description and Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
the temperature of air entering the engine), similar to the ECT sensor. Low temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F). The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the IAT sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and monitors the terminal voltage. The voltage will be high when the intake air is cold, and
low when the intake air is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM knows the intake air
temperature. This input is used in starting and running fuel control calculations. A fault in the IAT
sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0112 or DTC P0113.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector. 3. Carefully
remove the IAT sensor from air cleaner outlet duct.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the IAT sensor into the air cleaner outlet duct. 2. Connect the IAT sensor electrical
connector.
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Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 88 in.lb
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3871
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3872
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3876
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3877
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3879
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3881
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (LN2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3883
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT: Preform a Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure any time you
make a change to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank sensor to
crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect a misfire at all speeds and loads accurately.
Resulting in possibly setting a false misfire DTC. Removing a part for inspection and then
reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could set if you do not
perform this procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used to correlate crankshaft to camshaft position so that
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the
injector. The CMP sensor is also used to determine which cylinder is misfiring when misfire is
present. If the PCM receives an intermittent signal from the CMP, then the CMP Resync Counter
will increment. When the PCM cannot use the information from the CMP sensor, a DTC is set and
the PCM will fuel the engine using the Alternating Synchronous Double Fire (ASDF) method. This
sensor has no effect on the EI system.
A malfunction in the CMP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0341 or P0342
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the R.H. tire assembly. 3. Remove
the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector. 4. Remove the CMP sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. 2. Install the CMP sensor electrical connector. 3.
Install the R.H. tire assembly. 4. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - Erratic & Incorrect
Engine Temp Reading
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Technical Service Bulletins Instruments Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-010
Date: March, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Erratic and Incorrect Engine Temperature Reading (Bleed Air from Cooling System)
Models: 1998-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-99 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition Some owners may comment about low coolant temperature gauge readings and when
performing diagnosis, the technician may notice coolant temperature readings below the actual
coolant temperature.
Cause There may be a small pocket of air trapped in the coolant temperature sensor fitting on the
radiator inlet pipe. This air pocket insulates the coolant temperature sensor from contact with the
coolant flow causing low temperature gauge readings.
Correction REMOVE THE TRAPPED AIR WITH THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
Caution:
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably
higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank
cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil
instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the
fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
1. With the engine off and at ambient temperature, slowly remove the surge tank cap to relieve
pressure from the cooling system.
2. Locate the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
Notice:
DO NOT APPLY TORQUE DIRECTLY TO THE RADIATOR INLET PIPE! Always use a back up
wrench on the coolant temperature sensor fitting to prevent damage to the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
3. Observe the gap between the bottom of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor and the top
of the hex on the fitting brazed to the radiator inlet pipe. It may be helpful at this point to mark the
coolant temperature sensor thread with a reference mark 5 mm (0.196 in) down from the bottom of
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Engine Temp Reading > Page 3889
the hex on the sensor.
4. Slowly loosen the sensor (do not fully remove it) until coolant begins to weep out of the threads.
This will allow any trapped air to escape and will ensure that the coolant is in contact with the
sensor element.
5. Retighten the Coolant Temperature Sensor until there is a 5 mm (0.196 in) gap between the
bottom of the hex on the sensor and the top of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor fitting.
6. Inspect the coolant level in the surge tank, if the coolant is low, add additional coolant to bring
the level up to the "Full Cold" mark on the surge tank. Install the surge tank cap.
7. Start the vehicle and inspect the Coolant Temperature Sensor for leaks and correct temperature
gauge readings.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor 0peration Labor Time
J6368 0.3 hr
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3890
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Sensor 25 Nm
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Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (3) is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor through a resistor in the PCM and monitors the
terminal voltage. Since this forms a series circuit to ground through the ECT sensor, high sensor
resistance (low temperature) will result in high PCM terminal voltage. When the resistance of the
ECT sensor is low (high temperature), the terminal voltage will be drawn lower. This terminal
voltage indicates engine coolant temperature to the PCM.
A hard fault in the ECT sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0117 or P0118. Remember, these
DTCs indicate a malfunction in the engine coolant temperature circuit, so proper use of the DTC
table may lead to either repairing a wiring problem or replacing the sensor, to properly repair a
problem.
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect the
operation of the fuel control system.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Relieve the coolant system pressure. 3. Disconnect the ECT
sensor electrical connector. 4. Carefully back out the ECT sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer. 2. Install the ECT sensor. Tighten the ECT sensor to 25 Nm
(18.5 lb. ft.). 3. Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector. 4. Refill the engine coolant system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Bolt 88 in.lb
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3939
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3940
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3941
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3968
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor provides a signal to the electronic Ignition Control Module
(ICM), which the PCM uses as a reference to calculate RPM and crankshaft position. A fault in the
CKP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0335.
This system uses a magnetic CKP sensor, mounted remotely from the ICM, which protrudes into
the block within approximately 0.050 of the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel cast
into the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it, six of which are equally spaced (60 degrees
apart). A seventh slot, is spaced 10 degrees from one of the other slots and serves to generate a
sync-pulse. As the reluctor rotates as part of the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of
the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
Based on the CKP sensor pulses, the ICM sends 7X reference signals to the PCM which is used to
indicate crankshaft position and engine speed. The ICM continues to send these reference pulse to
the PCM at a rate of seven per 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. This signal is called the 7X
reference because it occurs 7 times per crankshaft revolution. The 7X reference signal is
necessary for the PCM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors.
By comparing the time between pulses, the PCM can recognize the pulse representing the seventh
slot (sync pulse) which starts the calculation of ignition coil sequencing. The second crank pulse
following the sync pulse signals the PCM to fire the #2-3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse
signals the PCM to fire the #1-4 ignition coil.
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crankshaft
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set. Removing a part for inspection and
then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could be set if this
procedure is not performed. Refer to the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure for the Crankshaft
Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
See Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis for further information.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
harness connector at the module. 3. Remove the CKP sensor mounting bolt (2). 4. Remove the
CKP sensor from the engine (1). 5. Inspect the CKP sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage.
Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (1) into the block. 2. Install the CKP sensor
mounting bolt (2). Tighten the CKP sensor mounting bolts to 8 Nm (71 lb in). 3. Install the CKP
sensor harness connector. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn
Procedure
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set.
Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A
false DTC P0300 could be set if this procedure is not performed.
The learn procedure is required after the following service procedures have been performed,
regardless of whether or not DTC P1336 is set:
^ PCM replacement.
^ Engine replacement.
^ Crankshaft replacement.
^ Crankshaft position sensor replacement.
^ Any engine repair(s) which disturbs the crankshaft/harmonic balancer to the crankshaft position
sensor relationship.
CAUTION: When performing the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure always
set the vehicle parking brake and block the drive wheels in order to prevent Personal injury.
Release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. Once the learn procedure is
completed, engine control will be returned to the operator and the engine will respond to throttle
position.
IMPORTANT: The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. The scan tool connection at
the DLC is clean and tight before starting the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning
Procedure.
1. Close the hood. 2. Block the drive wheels and set the vehicle parking brake. 3. Put the vehicle in
Park or Neutral. 4. Turn all the accessories OFF. 5. Install a scan tool. 6. Start and run the engine
until it is at normal operating temperature 85°C (185°F). 7. With the engine still running, enable the
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure with the scan tool. 8. Press and hold the
brake pedal firmly and raise the engine speed to the specified value, RELEASING the throttle as
soon as the engine cuts out. 9. Verify with the scan tool that the crankshaft variation has been
learned.
Perform this procedure up to 10 times. If the PCM will not learn the variation, a DTC P1336 should
be set. Refer to DTC P1336 CKP System Variation Not Learned for diagnosis. See: Testing and
Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Data Link Connector: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Data Link Connector: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3995
Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Data Link Connector
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Data Link Connector: Electrical Diagrams
Data Link Connector (DLC) (Part 1 Of 2)
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Data Link Connector (DLC) (Part 2 Of 2)
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Data Link Connector: Description and Operation
There are two data lines that can be accessed with the scan tool. The Serial Data Line UART (800
Circuit) allows the scan tool (when connected), Powertrain Control Module, Instrument Panel
Cluster, Sensing and Diagnostic Module, and the Electronic Brake Control Module to communicate
via serial data. The Serial Data Line Class 2 (1807 Circuit) allows the scan tool to directly access
the Powertrain Control Module to read emissions related information. The scan tool can gain
access to both data lines through the Data Link Connector (DLC). System operations can then be
monitored or controlled for diagnostic purposes.
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<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 >
Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Powertrain Control Module: Recalls Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Product Emission 99090 - PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion #99090
99090--PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion (Install Protective PCM Shield/Cover Assembly)
Certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires Located in Fifteen U.S.
High Road Salt Corrosion States (CT, IL, IN, MA, ME, MN, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VT, and WI)
and in Ontario, Quebec and Atlantic Provinces, and Certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999
Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires located in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British
Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
Condition General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain
1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S.
high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996,
1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba,
Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories. These vehicles
have the potential to experience moisture entering the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a
result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt, Moisture entering the PCM can lead to
symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light or the engine running rough. If these
symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be able to be restarted.
Correction Dealers are to seal the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in a protective shield/cover
assembly.
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<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 >
Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4021
Vehicles Involved Involved are certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories built within the following VIN breakpoints:
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) of GM
Access Screen (Canada only) prior to beginning campaign repairs. [Not all vehicles within the
above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listing
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealers listing may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this listing tot he follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Important
An initial supply of covers and shields required to complete this campaign will be pre-shipped to
involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment will occur the week of May 8, 2000. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
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<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 >
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Parts required to complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to you "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering requirements
Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency
requirement should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Service Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right-hand engine splash shield (in front of the right front tire assembly)
3. Remove the horn attachment bolt. Disconnect the wire and remove the horn.
4. Remove the PCM retainer attachment bolts (2). Slide the PCM and the retainer from the PCM
and the retainer from the PCM bracket.
5. Install the PCM cover, P/N 22623903, over the PCM with the "F" facing outward.
6. Install the PCM into the vehicle bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 >
Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4023
7. Install the PCM shield assembly, P/N 22623904, to the vehicle. Drape the shield over the PCM
bracket. Removing the evap hose clip fastener and reinstall through the shield. Push the square cut
over the PCM attachment nut. Remove the horn wiring attachment clip and reinstall through the
shield.
8. Install the push-in retainer, P/N 10121502. through the lower front hole of the PCM shield and
then through the side hold of the PCM cover.
9. Install the Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign Identification Label
For US Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the
instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Campaign Identification Labels for US
dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by calling 1-888-549-6152 (Monday-Friday,
8:00 am to 5:00 pm EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Campaign Identification Label
For CANADA Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance
with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to
include the campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the
campaign service. This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. Additional Campaign Identification Labels for Canadian
dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm
EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Campaign
Claim Submissions.
Customer Notification
For US and CANADA
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 >
Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4024
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
customer letter included with this bulletin.
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance. The vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection test if the recall work
is not completed.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
For US and CANADA All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this campaign
MUST be held and inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin BEFORE
customers take possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle, or owner, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make required correction according tot he instructions contained
in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the customer letter
accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since
the customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
May, 2000
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall
General Motors has decided that certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories. These vehicles have the potential to experience moisture entering the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt,
Moisture entering the PCM can lead to symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light
or the engine running rough. If these symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be
able to be restarted.
What Will Be Done
To prevent this condition from occurring, your GM dealer will seal the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) in a protective shield/cover assembly. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer
Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and to assure parts
availability. Instructions for making this correction have been sent to your dealer. Please ask your
dealer if you wish to know how much time will be needed to schedule, process and repair your
vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the number listed.
Customer Replay Card
The attached customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer
will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you no longer own
this vehicle, please let us know by completeing the reply card and returning it to us in the postage
pad envelope.
Courtesy Transportation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 >
Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4025
Your dealer may provide you with shuttle service or some other form of courtesy transportation
while your vehicle is at the dealership for this repair. Please refer to your Owner's Manual and your
dealer for details on Courtesy Transportation.
Emission Law Information
In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty made applicable to your vehicle
by State or Federal Law, and your right to participate in future recalls, it is recommended that you
have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Failure to do so could legally be determined to be
lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also, your vehicle may fail a state or local emission
inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
(Chevrolet, Pontiac-GMC) Division
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 4031
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the
PCM
Product Emission 99090 - PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion #99090
99090--PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion (Install Protective PCM Shield/Cover Assembly)
Certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires Located in Fifteen U.S.
High Road Salt Corrosion States (CT, IL, IN, MA, ME, MN, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VT, and WI)
and in Ontario, Quebec and Atlantic Provinces, and Certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999
Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires located in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British
Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
Condition General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain
1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S.
high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996,
1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba,
Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories. These vehicles
have the potential to experience moisture entering the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a
result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt, Moisture entering the PCM can lead to
symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light or the engine running rough. If these
symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be able to be restarted.
Correction Dealers are to seal the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in a protective shield/cover
assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4036
Vehicles Involved Involved are certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories built within the following VIN breakpoints:
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) of GM
Access Screen (Canada only) prior to beginning campaign repairs. [Not all vehicles within the
above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listing
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealers listing may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this listing tot he follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Important
An initial supply of covers and shields required to complete this campaign will be pre-shipped to
involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment will occur the week of May 8, 2000. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4037
Parts required to complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to you "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering requirements
Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency
requirement should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Service Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right-hand engine splash shield (in front of the right front tire assembly)
3. Remove the horn attachment bolt. Disconnect the wire and remove the horn.
4. Remove the PCM retainer attachment bolts (2). Slide the PCM and the retainer from the PCM
and the retainer from the PCM bracket.
5. Install the PCM cover, P/N 22623903, over the PCM with the "F" facing outward.
6. Install the PCM into the vehicle bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4038
7. Install the PCM shield assembly, P/N 22623904, to the vehicle. Drape the shield over the PCM
bracket. Removing the evap hose clip fastener and reinstall through the shield. Push the square cut
over the PCM attachment nut. Remove the horn wiring attachment clip and reinstall through the
shield.
8. Install the push-in retainer, P/N 10121502. through the lower front hole of the PCM shield and
then through the side hold of the PCM cover.
9. Install the Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign Identification Label
For US Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the
instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Campaign Identification Labels for US
dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by calling 1-888-549-6152 (Monday-Friday,
8:00 am to 5:00 pm EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Campaign Identification Label
For CANADA Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance
with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to
include the campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the
campaign service. This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. Additional Campaign Identification Labels for Canadian
dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm
EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Campaign
Claim Submissions.
Customer Notification
For US and CANADA
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4039
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
customer letter included with this bulletin.
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance. The vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection test if the recall work
is not completed.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
For US and CANADA All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this campaign
MUST be held and inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin BEFORE
customers take possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle, or owner, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make required correction according tot he instructions contained
in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the customer letter
accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since
the customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
May, 2000
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall
General Motors has decided that certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories. These vehicles have the potential to experience moisture entering the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt,
Moisture entering the PCM can lead to symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light
or the engine running rough. If these symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be
able to be restarted.
What Will Be Done
To prevent this condition from occurring, your GM dealer will seal the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) in a protective shield/cover assembly. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer
Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and to assure parts
availability. Instructions for making this correction have been sent to your dealer. Please ask your
dealer if you wish to know how much time will be needed to schedule, process and repair your
vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the number listed.
Customer Replay Card
The attached customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer
will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you no longer own
this vehicle, please let us know by completeing the reply card and returning it to us in the postage
pad envelope.
Courtesy Transportation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4040
Your dealer may provide you with shuttle service or some other form of courtesy transportation
while your vehicle is at the dealership for this repair. Please refer to your Owner's Manual and your
dealer for details on Courtesy Transportation.
Emission Law Information
In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty made applicable to your vehicle
by State or Federal Law, and your right to participate in future recalls, it is recommended that you
have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Failure to do so could legally be determined to be
lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also, your vehicle may fail a state or local emission
inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
(Chevrolet, Pontiac-GMC) Division
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
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results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
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Powertrain Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Powertrain Control Module: Specifications
PCM Retainer Bolts 6-9 ft.lb
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Powertrain Control Module: Locations
Location View
At the right front corner, behind the fascia
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Powertrain Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4089
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4090
Powertrain Control Module: Connector Views
Connector View
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Connector View
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Connector View
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Connector View
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<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4094
Powertrain Control Module: Description and Operation
Description
The Control Module refers to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Vehicle Control Module
(VCM). The control module is designed to maintain exhaust emission levels to Federal or California
standards while providing excellent driveability and fuel efficiency. Review the components and
wiring diagrams in order to determine which systems are controlled by each specific control
module. The control module monitors numerous engine and vehicle functions. The control module
controls the following operations:
^ Fuel control
^ Ignition Control (IC)
^ Knock Sensor (KS) system
^ Automatic transmission shift functions
^ Cruise Control Enable
^ Generator
^ Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge
^ A/C Clutch Control
^ Cooling Fan Control
Control Module Function
The Control Module supplies a buffered voltage to various sensors and switches. The input and
output devices in the control module include an analog to digital converters, signal buffers,
counters, and special drivers. The Control Module controls most components with electronic
switches which complete a ground circuit when turned ON. These switches are arranged in groups
of 4 and 7 called one of the following:
^ Quad Driver Module
^ Output Driver Modules
The surface mounted Quad Driver Module can independently control up to 4 outputs (Control
Module) terminals. The Output Driver Modules can independently control up to 7 outputs. Not all
outputs are always used.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module
<--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Password Learn Procedure
Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Instrument
Panel Cluster (IPC) and the PCM. If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM needs to learn the correct
password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is flashed into
the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial ignition ON. If the PC is
replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the IPC. The password learn procedure
is as follows:
1. Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition ON. The THEFT SYSTEM telltale will flash for 10
minutes.
2. When the THEFT SYSTEM telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running,
the password is learned.
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Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Replacement/Programming
Repair Instructions
NOTICE: In order to prevent internal damage to the PCM, the ignition must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting the PCM connector.
Service of the PCM should normally consist of either replacement of the PCM or EEPROM
re-programming.
If the diagnostic procedures call for the PCM to be replaced, the PCM should be checked first to
see if it is the correct part. DTC P0601 indicates the EEPROM programming has malfunctioned.
When DTC P0601 is obtained, re-program the EEPROM. The ignition should be OFF for at least
10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM so the IAC valve has time to move to the
engine OFF position.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Turn the ignition switch OFF to prevent internal PCM damage when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to the PCM (for example, battery cable, PCM pigtail, PCM fuse, jumper cables,
etc.). The ignition switch should be OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting the power to
the PCM so the IAC valve has time to move to the engine OFF position.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the RH engine splash shield. 3. Disconnect
the horn electrical connector. 4. Remove the horn attaching bolt and the horn.
NOTICE: Do not touch the PCM connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board in
order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) damage. Do not remove the integrated
circuit boards from the carrier.
5. Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors (1).
6. Remove the PCM retainer attaching bolts (1).
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7. Slide the PCM and the retainer (1) from the PCM bracket (2).
8. Remove the retainer (1) from the PCM (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Remove the new PCM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the
same number or updated number as the malfunctioning PCM.
1. Slide the PCM (2) into the PCM retainer (1). 2. Slide the PCM and the retainer (1) into the PCM
bracket (2) slots. 3. Install the PCM retainer attaching bolts (1). Tighten the PCM retainer attaching
bolts to 8-12 Nm (6-9 lb ft).
NOTICE: Do not touch the PCM connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board in
order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) damage. Do not remove the integrated
circuit boards from the carrier.
4. Connect the PCM electrical connectors (1). 5. Install the horn and the horn attaching bolt. 6.
Connect the horn electrical connector. 7. Install the RH engine splash shield. 8. Connect the
negative battery cable. 9. Reprogram the PCM and perform the Crankshaft Position System
Variation Learning Procedure.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Level Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
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Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4109
Fuel Level Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel level sensor is attached to the modular fuel sender assembly. The resistance of the fuel
sensor changes with fuel level by means of a rheostat. Its range is from 90 ohms with a full tank to
0 ohms with an empty tank. This resistance value is sent to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) and
displayed on the fuel gauge. It is also sent to the PCM over UART serial data, and used for
evaporative emissions system diagnosis.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4110
Fuel Level Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Drain fuel tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. 4. Remove the fuel
sender assembly. 5. Remove the bumper from modular fuel sender assembly. 6. Remove the fuel
level sensor (1) from modular fuel sender.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Fuel level sensor (1) to the modular fuel sender. 2. Install the bumper to modular fuel sender
assembly. 3. Install the fuel sender assembly. 4. Install the fuel tank. 5. Refill the fuel tank. 6. Install
the negative battery cable. 7. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
7.1. Turn the ignition to the ON position for two seconds. 7.2. Turn the ignition to the OFF position
for ten seconds. 7.3. Turn the ignition to the ON position. 7.4. Check for fuel leaks.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel tank pressure sensor is similar to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. It is used
to measure the difference between the air pressure (or vacuum) in the fuel tank and the outside air
pressure. The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference and a ground to the sensor and the sensor sends a
voltage signal between 0.1 and 4.9 volts back to the PCM. When the air pressure in the fuel tank is
equal to the outside air pressure, as when the fuel cap is removed, the output voltage of the sensor
will be from 1.3 to 1.7 volts.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Specifications
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Specifications
Attaching Screws 3 Nm
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<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4117
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Locations
Component Location Views
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<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4118
Component Location Views
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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> Page 4121
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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> Page 4126
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
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Wiring Diagram
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Description and Operation
Engine idle speed is controlled by the PCM through the IAC valve (1) mounted on the throttle body.
The PCM sends voltage pulses to the IAC valve motor windings causing the IAC valve pintle (3) to
move IN (toward the seat) or OUT (away from the seat) a given distance (a step or count) for each
pulse. The commanded location (steps away from the seated position) can be observed as a
number of counts displayed on a scan tool. The pintle movement controls the airflow around the
throttle valve (2), which in turn, controls engine idle speed: Pintle Extended=Decrease RPM=Lower
Counts. Pintle Retracted=Increase RPM=Higher Counts.
The controlled or desired idle speed for all engine operating conditions is programmed into the
EEPROM of the PCM. The programmed engine speeds are based on coolant temperature,
park/neutral switch status, vehicle speed, battery voltage, and A/C refrigerant pressure (if
equipped).
The PCM learns the proper IAC valve positions to achieve warm, stabilized idle speeds (RPM),
desired for the various conditions (PIN or Drive, A/C ON or OFF, if equipped). This information is
stored in PCM Keep Alive memories (information is retained after ignition is OFF). All other IAC
valve positioning is calculated based on these memory values. As a result, engine variations due to
wear, and variations in minimum throttle valve position (within limits) do not affect engine idle
speeds. This system provides correct idle control under all conditions. This also means that
disconnecting power to the PCM can result in incorrect idle control or the necessity to partially
depress the accelerator when starting, until the PCM relearns idle control.
^ Engine idle speed is a function of total airflow into the engine based on IAC valve pintle position
plus throttle valve opening plus calibrated vacuum loss through accessories.
^ The minimum throttle valve position is set at the factory with a stop screw. This setting allows
enough air flow by the closed throttle valve to cause the IAC valve pintle to be positioned a
calibrated number of steps (counts) from the seat during controlled idle operation. The minimum
throttle valve position for this engine is not the same as the minimum idle speed associated with
other fuel injected engines. The throttle stop screw is tilled at the factory following an adjustment.
IMPORTANT: Do Not try to remove the filler and readjust the stop screw. Misadjustment may set a
DTC P0506 or a DTC P0507.
^ The PCM normally resets the IAC valve pintle position once during each ignition cycle when
vehicle speed increases above 20 mph on moderate acceleration. During the reset, the PCM
commands the IAC valve pintle to retract completely, then move IN to the seated position (to
establish the zero count position), and then back out to the desired position. The IAC is relearned
only once per ignition cycle.
^ The IAC valve also can be reset without driving the vehicle by using this service procedure:
1. Turn ignition switch to the ON position (engine OFF). 2. Turn ignition OFF for ten seconds. 3.
Start engine and check for proper idle operation.
^ Whenever the IAC valve is disconnected and reconnected while the engine is running, the
resulting IAC valve counts may not correspond with the actual IAC valve pintle position. When
servicing the IAC valve, it should only be disconnected or connected after the ignition has been
OFF for at least 10 seconds. This allows time for the PCM to move the IAC valve to the 150 count
position where it is parked while the ignition is OFF. Whenever this procedure is not followed, the
PCM will lose track of IAC valve position resulting in starting or idle control problems until the IAC
valve is reset and pintle position is relearned.
^ IAC system problems may cause improper idle speeds, resulting in a DTC P0506 or a DTC
P0507. The DTC P0506 or the DTC P0507 tables should be used to diagnose these problems.
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Testing and Inspection
Refer to DTC P0506 or P0507 for diagnosis of the IAC.
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the IAC valve electrical connector. 2. Remove the IAC valve attaching screws (1).
NOTICE: If the IAC valve has been in service: DO NOT push or pull on the IAC valve pintle. The
force required to move the pintle may damage the threads on the worm drive. Also, DO NOT soak
the IAC valve in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
3. Remove the IAC valve assembly (2).
^ Clean IAC valve O-ring sealing surface, pintle valve seat, and air passage.
^ The IAC valve may be cleaned, use a shop towel or parts cleaning brush to remove heavy
deposits.
^ Shiny spots on the pintle or seat are normal, and do not indicate misalignment or a bent pintle
shaft.
^ Whenever air passage have heavy deposits, remove throttle body for complete cleaning.
^ Inspect IAC valve O-ring for cuts, cracks, or distortion. Replace if damaged.
^ Whenever installing a new IAC valve, be sure to replace it with an identical part. IAC valve pintle
shape and diameter are designed for the specific application.
Measurement Procedure
This procedure is only for installing a new IAC Valve.
IMPORTANT: If installing a new IAC valve, replace the IAC valve with an identical part. The IAC
valve pintle shape and diameter are designed for the specific application.
Measure the distance between tip of IAC valve pintle and mounting flange.
If greater than 28 mm, use finger pressure to slowly retract the pintle. The force required to retract
the pintle of a new valve will not cause damage to the valve.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Lubricate IAC valve O-ring (3) with clean engine oil.
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2. Install the IAC valve assembly (2). 3. Install the IAC valve attaching screws (1). Tighten the IAC
valve attaching screws to 3.0 Nm (27 lb in). 4. Install the electrical connector. 5. To reset the IAC
valve pintle position:
5.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (engine OFF). 5.2. Turn the ignition switch OFF for
ten seconds. 5.3. Start the engine and check for proper idle operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Information Bus: Description and Operation
There are two data lines that can be accessed with the scan tool. The Serial Data Line UART (800
Circuit) allows the scan tool (when connected), Powertrain Control Module, Instrument Panel
Cluster, Sensing and Diagnostic Module, and the Electronic Brake Control Module to communicate
via serial data. The Serial Data Line Class 2 (1807 Circuit) allows the scan tool to directly access
the Powertrain Control Module to read emissions related information. The scan tool can gain
access to both data lines through the Data Link Connector (DLC). System operations can then be
monitored or controlled for diagnostic purposes.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Information Bus: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
1. Check the scan tool operation on a known good vehicle to make sure tool is operating properly.
2. Check the condition of the CIG Fuse by visual inspection. 3. Verify that grounds G110 and G204
are clean and tight. 4. Check for proper connection of the scan tool to the Data Link Connector
(DLC). 5. If all UART components are not accessible with a scan tool, check for an open, short to
ground or short to B+ in the 800 circuit between the DLC
terminal 9 and S277.
6. If a single UART component is not accessible with a scan tool, check for an open in the 800
circuit between the DLC and the suspect component.
If OK, refer to Powertrain Control Module diagnosis, Antilock Brake System/Traction Control for
ABS diagnosis, Supplement Inflatable Restraints for SIR diagnosis, and to Instrument Panel
Cluster for Instrument Cluster diagnosis.
See: Brakes and Traction Control See: Restraint Systems See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators
7. If the Class 2 line to the PCM is not accessible with a scan tool, check for an open in the 1807
circuit between the PCM and the DLC. If OK, refer
to Powertrain Control Module Diagnosis.
^ Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside the insulation which could cause system
malfunction but prove good in a continuity/voltage check with a system disconnected. These
circuits may be intermittent or resistive when loaded, and if possible, should be checked by
monitoring for a voltage drop with the system operational (under load).
^ Check for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity of
other systems. Refer to Troubleshooting Procedures.
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Information Bus: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With Any Module (Part 1 Of 2)
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With Any Module (Part 2 Of 2)
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4164
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With EBCM
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With SDM
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Scan Tool Cannot Communicate With The PCM On The UART Serial Data Bus (Part 1 Of 2)
Scan Tool Cannot Communicate With The PCM On The UART Serial Data Bus (Part 2 Of 2)
Scan Tool Cannot Communicate With The PCM On The Class 2 Serial Data Bus
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Unable To Establish Serial Communication With Any Module (Part 1 Of 2)
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With Any Module (Part 2 Of 2)
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Unable To Establish Serial Communication With EBCM
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With SDM
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Information Bus: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
There are two data lines that can be accessed with the scan tool. The Serial Data Line UART (800
Circuit) allows the scan tool (when connected), Powertrain Control Module, Instrument Panel
Cluster, Sensing and Diagnostic Module, and the Electronic Brake Control Module to communicate
via serial data. The Serial Data Line Class 2 (1807 Circuit) allows the scan tool to directly access
the Powertrain Control Module to read emissions related information. The scan tool can gain
access to both data lines through the Data Link Connector (DLC). System operations can then be
monitored or controlled for diagnostic purposes.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 12-16 ft.lb
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Wiring Diagram
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor
Purpose
Varying octane levels in the gasoline can cause a detonation in performance engines. Detonation
is sometimes called a spark knock. A spark knock causes the pistons and the rings to vibrate and
rattle, sometimes producing a knocking sound.
In order to control a spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) is used. This system is designed to retard
the spark timing up to 15 degrees in order to reduce a spark knock in the engine. This allows the
engine to use a maximum spark advance in order to improve driveability and fuel economy.
The PCM uses information from the MAP and coolant sensor in addition to the RPM in order to
calculate the spark advance as follows:
^ Low MAP output voltage equals more spark advance.
^ Cold engine equals more spark advance.
^ High MAP output voltage equals less spark advance.
^ Hot engine equals less spark advance. A low MAP output or high resistance in the Engine
Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit could cause detonation. A high MAP output or low
resistance in the coolant sensor circuit could cause poor performance.
Operation
The KS system has two major components:
^ The KS module.
^ The Knock Sensor (KS).
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
The KS detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is mounted in the
engine block near the cylinders. The sensor produces an AC output voltage which increases with
the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM then adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce the spark knock.
A malfunction in the KS circuit or module will set a DTC P0325.
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Knock Sensor Wiring Harness Connector
Knock Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the Knock Sensor wiring harness connector from the knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock
sensor from the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. After cleaning the threads thoroughly, install the knock sensor into the engine block. Tighten the
knock sensor to 16-22 Nm (12-16 lb ft). 2. Install the KS wiring harness connector to the knock
sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Component Information > Description and Operation
Knock Sensor Module: Description and Operation
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Locations
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
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Instructions
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Instructions > Page 4248
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Instructions > Page 4249
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 4252
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
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Instructions > Page 4253
Wiring Diagram
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Description and Operation
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor measures the changes in the intake manifold
pressure which result from engine load and speed changes, and converts this measurement into a
voltage output.
The PCM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the MAP sensor. As the manifold pressure changes,
the electrical resistance of the sensor also changes. By monitoring the sensor output voltage, the
PCM can determine the manifold pressure. A higher pressure, low vacuum (high voltage) requires
more fuel, while a lower pressure, higher vacuum (low voltage) requires less fuel.
A closed throttle on when the engine is decelerating would produce a relatively low MAP output,
while a wide open throttle would produce a high output. Manifold absolute pressure is the opposite
of what you would measure on a vacuum gauge. When manifold pressure is high, vacuum is low.
The MAP sensor is also used to measure barometric pressure under certain conditions, which
allows the PCM to automatically adjust for different altitudes.
A high or low voltage fault in the MAP sensor circuit should set a DTC P0107 or DTC P0108. If the
MAP sensor sends an intermittent zero voltage signal to the PCM, a DTC P0106 will set.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector. 3. Remove the
MAP sensor (1) from the intake manifold (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAP sensor (1) to the intake manifold (2). 2. Connect the MAP sensor electrical
connector. 3. Install the throttle body.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sensor: Locations
At the rear center of the engine
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Oil Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the engine oil pressure
sensor (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor (1). 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Lower the
vehicle.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Torque 41 Nm
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Component Information > Locations > Post Converter Oxygen Sensor
Oxygen Sensor: Locations Post Converter Oxygen Sensor
Component Location Views
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Component Information > Locations > Post Converter Oxygen Sensor > Page 4265
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Oxygen Sensor: Locations Pre-Converter Oxygen Sensor
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Oxygen Sensor 1
The Oxygen Sensor (O2S 1) is mounted in the exhaust system where it can monitor the oxygen
content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen content in the exhaust reacts with the sensor to
produce a voltage output. This voltage ranges from approximately 0.1 volt (high oxygen-lean
mixture) to 0.9 volt (low oxygen-rich mixture). This voltage can be measured with a scan tool.
By monitoring the voltage output of the O2S 1, the PCM will know what fuel mixture command to
give to the injectors.
- Lean mixture-low O2S 1 voltage = rich command
- Rich mixture-high O2S 1 voltage = lean command
The O2S 1, if open, should set a DTC P0134. A constant low voltage in the sensor circuit should
set a DTC P0131. A constant high voltage in the circuit should set a DTC P0132. DTCs P0131 and
P0132 could also be set as a result of fuel system problems. See the DTC tables for conditions that
can cause a lean or rich system.
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Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
The Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2) is used to monitor the oxygen storage capability of the
catalytic converter. Similar to the O2S 1, the HO2S 2 reacts with the oxygen content in the exhaust
stream to produce a voltage signal, only after the catalytic converter. This voltage ranges from
approximately 0.1 volt (high oxygen-lean mixture) to 0.9 volt (low oxygen-rich mixture). Unlike the
O2S 1, with a good catalytic converter, the HO2S 2 is normal when its activity appears lazy or
inactive. The PCM compares readings from both the front O2S 1 and the HO2S 2 to determine the
catalyst efficiency and will illuminate the MIL if this efficiency falls below a calibrated level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oxygen Sensor 1
Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Oxygen Sensor 1
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: The oxygen sensor uses a permanently attached pigtail and connector. Do not remove
the pigtail from the oxygen sensor. Damage to or removal of the pigtail of connector could affect
proper operation of the oxygen sensor.
IMPORTANT: Take care when handling the Oxygen Sensor (02S 1). The in-line electrical
connector and louvered end must be kept free of grease, dirt or other contaminants. Avoid using
cleaning solvents of any type. DO NOT drop or roughly handle the O2S 1.
IMPORTANT: The 02S 1 may be difficult to remove when the engine temperature is below 48°C
(120°F).
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF 2. Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor 1 electrical connector.
IMPORTANT: Do not use excessive force when removing the 02S sensor.
3. Carefully remove the Oxygen Sensor 1.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. The
compound consists of a liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite will burn away, but the glass
beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will already have
the compound applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from an engine, and if for any reason
it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have an anti-seize compound applied before reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads to the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound, if necessary. 2. Install the
Oxygen Sensor 1. Tighten the 02S 1 41 Nm (30 lb ft). 3. Connect the Oxygen Sensor 1 electrical
connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oxygen Sensor 1 > Page 4312
Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Heated Oxygen Sensor 2
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: The Heated Oxygen Sensors each use a permanently attached pigtail and connector.
This pigtail should not be removed from the heated oxygen sensor. Damage or removal of the
pigtail or connector could affect proper operation of the heated oxygen sensor.
IMPORTANT: Take care when handling the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 (HO2S 2). The in-line
electrical connector and louvered end like the 02S 1 must be kept free of grease, dirt or other
contaminants. Avoid using cleaning solvents of any type. DO NOT drop or roughly handle the
HO2S 2.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the HO2S 2 electrical connector.
NOTICE: The use of excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust pipe.
3. Carefully remove the rear heated oxygen sensor 2.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the HO2S 2 sensor threads. The
compound consists of a liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite will burn away, but the glass
beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will already have
the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from the exhaust, and if for any
reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have an anti-seize compound applied before
reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads of the HO2S 2 with anti-seize compound, if necessary. 2. Install the HO2S 2.
Tighten the HO2S 2 to 41 Nm (30 lb ft). 3. Connect the HO2S 2 electrical connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Powertrain Control Module: Recalls Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Product Emission 99090 - PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion #99090
99090--PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion (Install Protective PCM Shield/Cover Assembly)
Certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires Located in Fifteen U.S.
High Road Salt Corrosion States (CT, IL, IN, MA, ME, MN, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VT, and WI)
and in Ontario, Quebec and Atlantic Provinces, and Certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999
Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires located in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British
Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
Condition General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain
1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S.
high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996,
1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba,
Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories. These vehicles
have the potential to experience moisture entering the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a
result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt, Moisture entering the PCM can lead to
symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light or the engine running rough. If these
symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be able to be restarted.
Correction Dealers are to seal the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in a protective shield/cover
assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4322
Vehicles Involved Involved are certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories built within the following VIN breakpoints:
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) of GM
Access Screen (Canada only) prior to beginning campaign repairs. [Not all vehicles within the
above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listing
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealers listing may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this listing tot he follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Important
An initial supply of covers and shields required to complete this campaign will be pre-shipped to
involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment will occur the week of May 8, 2000. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4323
Parts required to complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to you "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering requirements
Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency
requirement should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Service Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right-hand engine splash shield (in front of the right front tire assembly)
3. Remove the horn attachment bolt. Disconnect the wire and remove the horn.
4. Remove the PCM retainer attachment bolts (2). Slide the PCM and the retainer from the PCM
and the retainer from the PCM bracket.
5. Install the PCM cover, P/N 22623903, over the PCM with the "F" facing outward.
6. Install the PCM into the vehicle bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4324
7. Install the PCM shield assembly, P/N 22623904, to the vehicle. Drape the shield over the PCM
bracket. Removing the evap hose clip fastener and reinstall through the shield. Push the square cut
over the PCM attachment nut. Remove the horn wiring attachment clip and reinstall through the
shield.
8. Install the push-in retainer, P/N 10121502. through the lower front hole of the PCM shield and
then through the side hold of the PCM cover.
9. Install the Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign Identification Label
For US Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the
instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Campaign Identification Labels for US
dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by calling 1-888-549-6152 (Monday-Friday,
8:00 am to 5:00 pm EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Campaign Identification Label
For CANADA Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance
with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to
include the campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the
campaign service. This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. Additional Campaign Identification Labels for Canadian
dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm
EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Campaign
Claim Submissions.
Customer Notification
For US and CANADA
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4325
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
customer letter included with this bulletin.
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance. The vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection test if the recall work
is not completed.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
For US and CANADA All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this campaign
MUST be held and inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin BEFORE
customers take possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle, or owner, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make required correction according tot he instructions contained
in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the customer letter
accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since
the customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
May, 2000
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall
General Motors has decided that certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories. These vehicles have the potential to experience moisture entering the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt,
Moisture entering the PCM can lead to symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light
or the engine running rough. If these symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be
able to be restarted.
What Will Be Done
To prevent this condition from occurring, your GM dealer will seal the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) in a protective shield/cover assembly. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer
Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and to assure parts
availability. Instructions for making this correction have been sent to your dealer. Please ask your
dealer if you wish to know how much time will be needed to schedule, process and repair your
vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the number listed.
Customer Replay Card
The attached customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer
will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you no longer own
this vehicle, please let us know by completeing the reply card and returning it to us in the postage
pad envelope.
Courtesy Transportation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4326
Your dealer may provide you with shuttle service or some other form of courtesy transportation
while your vehicle is at the dealership for this repair. Please refer to your Owner's Manual and your
dealer for details on Courtesy Transportation.
Emission Law Information
In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty made applicable to your vehicle
by State or Federal Law, and your right to participate in future recalls, it is recommended that you
have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Failure to do so could legally be determined to be
lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also, your vehicle may fail a state or local emission
inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
(Chevrolet, Pontiac-GMC) Division
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 >
Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 >
Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 4332
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall - Corrosion/Moisture Entering the
PCM
Product Emission 99090 - PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion #99090
99090--PCM Corrosion/Moisture Intrusion (Install Protective PCM Shield/Cover Assembly)
Certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires Located in Fifteen U.S.
High Road Salt Corrosion States (CT, IL, IN, MA, ME, MN, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VT, and WI)
and in Ontario, Quebec and Atlantic Provinces, and Certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999
Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires located in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British
Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
Condition General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain
1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S.
high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996,
1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba,
Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and Northwest Territories. These vehicles
have the potential to experience moisture entering the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a
result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt, Moisture entering the PCM can lead to
symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light or the engine running rough. If these
symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be able to be restarted.
Correction Dealers are to seal the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in a protective shield/cover
assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4337
Vehicles Involved Involved are certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories built within the following VIN breakpoints:
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) of GM
Access Screen (Canada only) prior to beginning campaign repairs. [Not all vehicles within the
above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listing
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealers listing may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this listing tot he follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Important
An initial supply of covers and shields required to complete this campaign will be pre-shipped to
involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment will occur the week of May 8, 2000. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4338
Parts required to complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to you "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering requirements
Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency
requirement should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Service Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right-hand engine splash shield (in front of the right front tire assembly)
3. Remove the horn attachment bolt. Disconnect the wire and remove the horn.
4. Remove the PCM retainer attachment bolts (2). Slide the PCM and the retainer from the PCM
and the retainer from the PCM bracket.
5. Install the PCM cover, P/N 22623903, over the PCM with the "F" facing outward.
6. Install the PCM into the vehicle bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4339
7. Install the PCM shield assembly, P/N 22623904, to the vehicle. Drape the shield over the PCM
bracket. Removing the evap hose clip fastener and reinstall through the shield. Push the square cut
over the PCM attachment nut. Remove the horn wiring attachment clip and reinstall through the
shield.
8. Install the push-in retainer, P/N 10121502. through the lower front hole of the PCM shield and
then through the side hold of the PCM cover.
9. Install the Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign Identification Label
For US Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the
instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Campaign Identification Labels for US
dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by calling 1-888-549-6152 (Monday-Friday,
8:00 am to 5:00 pm EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Campaign Identification Label
For CANADA Place the Campaign Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance
with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign Bulletin. Each label provides a space to
include the campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the
campaign service. This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Campaign Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area that will
be visible to people servicing the vehicle. Additional Campaign Identification Labels for Canadian
dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm
EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Campaign
Claim Submissions.
Customer Notification
For US and CANADA
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4340
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
customer letter included with this bulletin.
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance. The vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection test if the recall work
is not completed.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
For US and CANADA All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this campaign
MUST be held and inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin BEFORE
customers take possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle, or owner, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make required correction according tot he instructions contained
in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the customer letter
accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since
the customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
May, 2000
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall
General Motors has decided that certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located in fifteen U.S. high salt corrosion states and in Ontario. Quebec and
Atlantic provinces; and certain 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac
Sunfire model vehicles located Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and
Northwest Territories. These vehicles have the potential to experience moisture entering the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as a result of corrosion after extended exposure to road salt,
Moisture entering the PCM can lead to symptoms including illumination of the Check Engine light
or the engine running rough. If these symptoms are ignored, the engine may stall and may not be
able to be restarted.
What Will Be Done
To prevent this condition from occurring, your GM dealer will seal the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) in a protective shield/cover assembly. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer
Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and to assure parts
availability. Instructions for making this correction have been sent to your dealer. Please ask your
dealer if you wish to know how much time will be needed to schedule, process and repair your
vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the number listed.
Customer Replay Card
The attached customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer
will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you no longer own
this vehicle, please let us know by completeing the reply card and returning it to us in the postage
pad envelope.
Courtesy Transportation
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Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 99090 > May > 00 > Recall Corrosion/Moisture Entering the PCM > Page 4341
Your dealer may provide you with shuttle service or some other form of courtesy transportation
while your vehicle is at the dealership for this repair. Please refer to your Owner's Manual and your
dealer for details on Courtesy Transportation.
Emission Law Information
In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty made applicable to your vehicle
by State or Federal Law, and your right to participate in future recalls, it is recommended that you
have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Failure to do so could legally be determined to be
lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also, your vehicle may fail a state or local emission
inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
(Chevrolet, Pontiac-GMC) Division
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM
Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 >
Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
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Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 >
Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 4351
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Powertrain Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM
Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Powertrain Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4356
Powertrain Control Module: Specifications
PCM Retainer Bolts 6-9 ft.lb
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Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4357
Powertrain Control Module: Locations
Location View
At the right front corner, behind the fascia
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Powertrain Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4360
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4361
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4362
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4363
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4364
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4365
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4366
Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4367
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4385
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4391
Powertrain Control Module: Connector Views
Connector View
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4392
Connector View
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4393
Connector View
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4394
Connector View
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Diagrams > Page 4395
Powertrain Control Module: Description and Operation
Description
The Control Module refers to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Vehicle Control Module
(VCM). The control module is designed to maintain exhaust emission levels to Federal or California
standards while providing excellent driveability and fuel efficiency. Review the components and
wiring diagrams in order to determine which systems are controlled by each specific control
module. The control module monitors numerous engine and vehicle functions. The control module
controls the following operations:
^ Fuel control
^ Ignition Control (IC)
^ Knock Sensor (KS) system
^ Automatic transmission shift functions
^ Cruise Control Enable
^ Generator
^ Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge
^ A/C Clutch Control
^ Cooling Fan Control
Control Module Function
The Control Module supplies a buffered voltage to various sensors and switches. The input and
output devices in the control module include an analog to digital converters, signal buffers,
counters, and special drivers. The Control Module controls most components with electronic
switches which complete a ground circuit when turned ON. These switches are arranged in groups
of 4 and 7 called one of the following:
^ Quad Driver Module
^ Output Driver Modules
The surface mounted Quad Driver Module can independently control up to 4 outputs (Control
Module) terminals. The Output Driver Modules can independently control up to 7 outputs. Not all
outputs are always used.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Powertrain Control Module <--> [Engine Control Module] > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Password Learn Procedure
Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Instrument
Panel Cluster (IPC) and the PCM. If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM needs to learn the correct
password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is flashed into
the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial ignition ON. If the PC is
replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the IPC. The password learn procedure
is as follows:
1. Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition ON. The THEFT SYSTEM telltale will flash for 10
minutes.
2. When the THEFT SYSTEM telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running,
the password is learned.
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Service and Repair > Password Learn Procedure > Page 4398
Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Replacement/Programming
Repair Instructions
NOTICE: In order to prevent internal damage to the PCM, the ignition must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting the PCM connector.
Service of the PCM should normally consist of either replacement of the PCM or EEPROM
re-programming.
If the diagnostic procedures call for the PCM to be replaced, the PCM should be checked first to
see if it is the correct part. DTC P0601 indicates the EEPROM programming has malfunctioned.
When DTC P0601 is obtained, re-program the EEPROM. The ignition should be OFF for at least
10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM so the IAC valve has time to move to the
engine OFF position.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Turn the ignition switch OFF to prevent internal PCM damage when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to the PCM (for example, battery cable, PCM pigtail, PCM fuse, jumper cables,
etc.). The ignition switch should be OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting the power to
the PCM so the IAC valve has time to move to the engine OFF position.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the RH engine splash shield. 3. Disconnect
the horn electrical connector. 4. Remove the horn attaching bolt and the horn.
NOTICE: Do not touch the PCM connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board in
order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) damage. Do not remove the integrated
circuit boards from the carrier.
5. Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors (1).
6. Remove the PCM retainer attaching bolts (1).
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7. Slide the PCM and the retainer (1) from the PCM bracket (2).
8. Remove the retainer (1) from the PCM (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Remove the new PCM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the
same number or updated number as the malfunctioning PCM.
1. Slide the PCM (2) into the PCM retainer (1). 2. Slide the PCM and the retainer (1) into the PCM
bracket (2) slots. 3. Install the PCM retainer attaching bolts (1). Tighten the PCM retainer attaching
bolts to 8-12 Nm (6-9 lb ft).
NOTICE: Do not touch the PCM connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board in
order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) damage. Do not remove the integrated
circuit boards from the carrier.
4. Connect the PCM electrical connectors (1). 5. Install the horn and the horn attaching bolt. 6.
Connect the horn electrical connector. 7. Install the RH engine splash shield. 8. Connect the
negative battery cable. 9. Reprogram the PCM and perform the Crankshaft Position System
Variation Learning Procedure.
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Knock Sensor Module: Description and Operation
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Instructions > Page 4433
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 88 in.lb
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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and Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (LN2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT: Preform a Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure any time you
make a change to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank sensor to
crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect a misfire at all speeds and loads accurately.
Resulting in possibly setting a false misfire DTC. Removing a part for inspection and then
reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could set if you do not
perform this procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used to correlate crankshaft to camshaft position so that
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the
injector. The CMP sensor is also used to determine which cylinder is misfiring when misfire is
present. If the PCM receives an intermittent signal from the CMP, then the CMP Resync Counter
will increment. When the PCM cannot use the information from the CMP sensor, a DTC is set and
the PCM will fuel the engine using the Alternating Synchronous Double Fire (ASDF) method. This
sensor has no effect on the EI system.
A malfunction in the CMP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0341 or P0342
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the R.H. tire assembly. 3. Remove
the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector. 4. Remove the CMP sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. 2. Install the CMP sensor electrical connector. 3.
Install the R.H. tire assembly. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Technical Service Bulletins Instruments Erratic & Incorrect Engine Temp Reading
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-010
Date: March, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Erratic and Incorrect Engine Temperature Reading (Bleed Air from Cooling System)
Models: 1998-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-99 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition Some owners may comment about low coolant temperature gauge readings and when
performing diagnosis, the technician may notice coolant temperature readings below the actual
coolant temperature.
Cause There may be a small pocket of air trapped in the coolant temperature sensor fitting on the
radiator inlet pipe. This air pocket insulates the coolant temperature sensor from contact with the
coolant flow causing low temperature gauge readings.
Correction REMOVE THE TRAPPED AIR WITH THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
Caution:
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably
higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank
cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil
instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the
fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
1. With the engine off and at ambient temperature, slowly remove the surge tank cap to relieve
pressure from the cooling system.
2. Locate the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
Notice:
DO NOT APPLY TORQUE DIRECTLY TO THE RADIATOR INLET PIPE! Always use a back up
wrench on the coolant temperature sensor fitting to prevent damage to the Radiator Inlet Pipe.
3. Observe the gap between the bottom of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor and the top
of the hex on the fitting brazed to the radiator inlet pipe. It may be helpful at this point to mark the
coolant temperature sensor thread with a reference mark 5 mm (0.196 in) down from the bottom of
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the hex on the sensor.
4. Slowly loosen the sensor (do not fully remove it) until coolant begins to weep out of the threads.
This will allow any trapped air to escape and will ensure that the coolant is in contact with the
sensor element.
5. Retighten the Coolant Temperature Sensor until there is a 5 mm (0.196 in) gap between the
bottom of the hex on the sensor and the top of the hex on the coolant temperature sensor fitting.
6. Inspect the coolant level in the surge tank, if the coolant is low, add additional coolant to bring
the level up to the "Full Cold" mark on the surge tank. Install the surge tank cap.
7. Start the vehicle and inspect the Coolant Temperature Sensor for leaks and correct temperature
gauge readings.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor 0peration Labor Time
J6368 0.3 hr
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Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4487
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Sensor 25 Nm
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Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4488
Component Location Views
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4493
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4494
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4495
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4496
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4497
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (3) is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor through a resistor in the PCM and monitors the
terminal voltage. Since this forms a series circuit to ground through the ECT sensor, high sensor
resistance (low temperature) will result in high PCM terminal voltage. When the resistance of the
ECT sensor is low (high temperature), the terminal voltage will be drawn lower. This terminal
voltage indicates engine coolant temperature to the PCM.
A hard fault in the ECT sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0117 or P0118. Remember, these
DTCs indicate a malfunction in the engine coolant temperature circuit, so proper use of the DTC
table may lead to either repairing a wiring problem or replacing the sensor, to properly repair a
problem.
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect the
operation of the fuel control system.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Relieve the coolant system pressure. 3. Disconnect the ECT
sensor electrical connector. 4. Carefully back out the ECT sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer. 2. Install the ECT sensor. Tighten the ECT sensor to 25 Nm
(18.5 lb. ft.). 3. Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector. 4. Refill the engine coolant system.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Bolt 88 in.lb
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor provides a signal to the electronic Ignition Control Module
(ICM), which the PCM uses as a reference to calculate RPM and crankshaft position. A fault in the
CKP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0335.
This system uses a magnetic CKP sensor, mounted remotely from the ICM, which protrudes into
the block within approximately 0.050 of the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel cast
into the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it, six of which are equally spaced (60 degrees
apart). A seventh slot, is spaced 10 degrees from one of the other slots and serves to generate a
sync-pulse. As the reluctor rotates as part of the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of
the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
Based on the CKP sensor pulses, the ICM sends 7X reference signals to the PCM which is used to
indicate crankshaft position and engine speed. The ICM continues to send these reference pulse to
the PCM at a rate of seven per 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. This signal is called the 7X
reference because it occurs 7 times per crankshaft revolution. The 7X reference signal is
necessary for the PCM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors.
By comparing the time between pulses, the PCM can recognize the pulse representing the seventh
slot (sync pulse) which starts the calculation of ignition coil sequencing. The second crank pulse
following the sync pulse signals the PCM to fire the #2-3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse
signals the PCM to fire the #1-4 ignition coil.
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crankshaft
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set. Removing a part for inspection and
then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could be set if this
procedure is not performed. Refer to the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure for the Crankshaft
Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
See Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis for further information.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
harness connector at the module. 3. Remove the CKP sensor mounting bolt (2). 4. Remove the
CKP sensor from the engine (1). 5. Inspect the CKP sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage.
Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (1) into the block. 2. Install the CKP sensor
mounting bolt (2). Tighten the CKP sensor mounting bolts to 8 Nm (71 lb in). 3. Install the CKP
sensor harness connector. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn
Procedure
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set.
Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A
false DTC P0300 could be set if this procedure is not performed.
The learn procedure is required after the following service procedures have been performed,
regardless of whether or not DTC P1336 is set:
^ PCM replacement.
^ Engine replacement.
^ Crankshaft replacement.
^ Crankshaft position sensor replacement.
^ Any engine repair(s) which disturbs the crankshaft/harmonic balancer to the crankshaft position
sensor relationship.
CAUTION: When performing the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure always
set the vehicle parking brake and block the drive wheels in order to prevent Personal injury.
Release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. Once the learn procedure is
completed, engine control will be returned to the operator and the engine will respond to throttle
position.
IMPORTANT: The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. The scan tool connection at
the DLC is clean and tight before starting the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning
Procedure.
1. Close the hood. 2. Block the drive wheels and set the vehicle parking brake. 3. Put the vehicle in
Park or Neutral. 4. Turn all the accessories OFF. 5. Install a scan tool. 6. Start and run the engine
until it is at normal operating temperature 85°C (185°F). 7. With the engine still running, enable the
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure with the scan tool. 8. Press and hold the
brake pedal firmly and raise the engine speed to the specified value, RELEASING the throttle as
soon as the engine cuts out. 9. Verify with the scan tool that the crankshaft variation has been
learned.
Perform this procedure up to 10 times. If the PCM will not learn the variation, a DTC P1336 should
be set. Refer to DTC P1336 CKP System Variation Not Learned for diagnosis. See: Testing and
Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level
Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Level Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
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Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4576
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level
Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4577
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Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4578
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Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4579
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Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
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Fuel Level Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel level sensor is attached to the modular fuel sender assembly. The resistance of the fuel
sensor changes with fuel level by means of a rheostat. Its range is from 90 ohms with a full tank to
0 ohms with an empty tank. This resistance value is sent to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) and
displayed on the fuel gauge. It is also sent to the PCM over UART serial data, and used for
evaporative emissions system diagnosis.
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Fuel Level Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Drain fuel tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. 4. Remove the fuel
sender assembly. 5. Remove the bumper from modular fuel sender assembly. 6. Remove the fuel
level sensor (1) from modular fuel sender.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Fuel level sensor (1) to the modular fuel sender. 2. Install the bumper to modular fuel sender
assembly. 3. Install the fuel sender assembly. 4. Install the fuel tank. 5. Refill the fuel tank. 6. Install
the negative battery cable. 7. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
7.1. Turn the ignition to the ON position for two seconds. 7.2. Turn the ignition to the OFF position
for ten seconds. 7.3. Turn the ignition to the ON position. 7.4. Check for fuel leaks.
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Fuel Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel tank pressure sensor is similar to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. It is used
to measure the difference between the air pressure (or vacuum) in the fuel tank and the outside air
pressure. The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference and a ground to the sensor and the sensor sends a
voltage signal between 0.1 and 4.9 volts back to the PCM. When the air pressure in the fuel tank is
equal to the outside air pressure, as when the fuel cap is removed, the output voltage of the sensor
will be from 1.3 to 1.7 volts.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4622
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Description and Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
the temperature of air entering the engine), similar to the ECT sensor. Low temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F). The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the IAT sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and monitors the terminal voltage. The voltage will be high when the intake air is cold, and
low when the intake air is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM knows the intake air
temperature. This input is used in starting and running fuel control calculations. A fault in the IAT
sensor circuit should set either a DTC P0112 or DTC P0113.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector. 3. Carefully
remove the IAT sensor from air cleaner outlet duct.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the IAT sensor into the air cleaner outlet duct. 2. Connect the IAT sensor electrical
connector.
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Knock Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 12-16 ft.lb
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Wiring Diagram
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor
Purpose
Varying octane levels in the gasoline can cause a detonation in performance engines. Detonation
is sometimes called a spark knock. A spark knock causes the pistons and the rings to vibrate and
rattle, sometimes producing a knocking sound.
In order to control a spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) is used. This system is designed to retard
the spark timing up to 15 degrees in order to reduce a spark knock in the engine. This allows the
engine to use a maximum spark advance in order to improve driveability and fuel economy.
The PCM uses information from the MAP and coolant sensor in addition to the RPM in order to
calculate the spark advance as follows:
^ Low MAP output voltage equals more spark advance.
^ Cold engine equals more spark advance.
^ High MAP output voltage equals less spark advance.
^ Hot engine equals less spark advance. A low MAP output or high resistance in the Engine
Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit could cause detonation. A high MAP output or low
resistance in the coolant sensor circuit could cause poor performance.
Operation
The KS system has two major components:
^ The KS module.
^ The Knock Sensor (KS).
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
The KS detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is mounted in the
engine block near the cylinders. The sensor produces an AC output voltage which increases with
the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM then adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce the spark knock.
A malfunction in the KS circuit or module will set a DTC P0325.
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Knock Sensor Wiring Harness Connector
Knock Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the Knock Sensor wiring harness connector from the knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock
sensor from the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. After cleaning the threads thoroughly, install the knock sensor into the engine block. Tighten the
knock sensor to 16-22 Nm (12-16 lb ft). 2. Install the KS wiring harness connector to the knock
sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Component Information > Locations
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Information > Locations > Page 4676
Component Location Views
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4681
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4682
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4684
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4704
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4705
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4707
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4710
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4711
Wiring Diagram
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4712
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Description and Operation
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor measures the changes in the intake manifold
pressure which result from engine load and speed changes, and converts this measurement into a
voltage output.
The PCM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the MAP sensor. As the manifold pressure changes,
the electrical resistance of the sensor also changes. By monitoring the sensor output voltage, the
PCM can determine the manifold pressure. A higher pressure, low vacuum (high voltage) requires
more fuel, while a lower pressure, higher vacuum (low voltage) requires less fuel.
A closed throttle on when the engine is decelerating would produce a relatively low MAP output,
while a wide open throttle would produce a high output. Manifold absolute pressure is the opposite
of what you would measure on a vacuum gauge. When manifold pressure is high, vacuum is low.
The MAP sensor is also used to measure barometric pressure under certain conditions, which
allows the PCM to automatically adjust for different altitudes.
A high or low voltage fault in the MAP sensor circuit should set a DTC P0107 or DTC P0108. If the
MAP sensor sends an intermittent zero voltage signal to the PCM, a DTC P0106 will set.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4713
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector. 3. Remove the
MAP sensor (1) from the intake manifold (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAP sensor (1) to the intake manifold (2). 2. Connect the MAP sensor electrical
connector. 3. Install the throttle body.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oil Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sensor: Locations
At the rear center of the engine
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Oil Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the engine oil pressure
sensor (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor (1). 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Lower the
vehicle.
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Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Torque 41 Nm
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Oxygen Sensor: Locations Post Converter Oxygen Sensor
Component Location Views
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> Page 4723
Component Location Views
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> Page 4724
Component Location Views
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> Page 4725
Component Location Views
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> Page 4726
Component Location Views
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> Page 4727
Oxygen Sensor: Locations Pre-Converter Oxygen Sensor
Component Location Views
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> Page 4728
Component Location Views
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> Page 4729
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 4763
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2)
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Wiring Diagram
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1
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Oxygen Sensor 1
The Oxygen Sensor (O2S 1) is mounted in the exhaust system where it can monitor the oxygen
content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen content in the exhaust reacts with the sensor to
produce a voltage output. This voltage ranges from approximately 0.1 volt (high oxygen-lean
mixture) to 0.9 volt (low oxygen-rich mixture). This voltage can be measured with a scan tool.
By monitoring the voltage output of the O2S 1, the PCM will know what fuel mixture command to
give to the injectors.
- Lean mixture-low O2S 1 voltage = rich command
- Rich mixture-high O2S 1 voltage = lean command
The O2S 1, if open, should set a DTC P0134. A constant low voltage in the sensor circuit should
set a DTC P0131. A constant high voltage in the circuit should set a DTC P0132. DTCs P0131 and
P0132 could also be set as a result of fuel system problems. See the DTC tables for conditions that
can cause a lean or rich system.
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Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
The Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2) is used to monitor the oxygen storage capability of the
catalytic converter. Similar to the O2S 1, the HO2S 2 reacts with the oxygen content in the exhaust
stream to produce a voltage signal, only after the catalytic converter. This voltage ranges from
approximately 0.1 volt (high oxygen-lean mixture) to 0.9 volt (low oxygen-rich mixture). Unlike the
O2S 1, with a good catalytic converter, the HO2S 2 is normal when its activity appears lazy or
inactive. The PCM compares readings from both the front O2S 1 and the HO2S 2 to determine the
catalyst efficiency and will illuminate the MIL if this efficiency falls below a calibrated level.
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Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Oxygen Sensor 1
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: The oxygen sensor uses a permanently attached pigtail and connector. Do not remove
the pigtail from the oxygen sensor. Damage to or removal of the pigtail of connector could affect
proper operation of the oxygen sensor.
IMPORTANT: Take care when handling the Oxygen Sensor (02S 1). The in-line electrical
connector and louvered end must be kept free of grease, dirt or other contaminants. Avoid using
cleaning solvents of any type. DO NOT drop or roughly handle the O2S 1.
IMPORTANT: The 02S 1 may be difficult to remove when the engine temperature is below 48°C
(120°F).
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF 2. Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor 1 electrical connector.
IMPORTANT: Do not use excessive force when removing the 02S sensor.
3. Carefully remove the Oxygen Sensor 1.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. The
compound consists of a liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite will burn away, but the glass
beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will already have
the compound applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from an engine, and if for any reason
it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have an anti-seize compound applied before reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads to the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound, if necessary. 2. Install the
Oxygen Sensor 1. Tighten the 02S 1 41 Nm (30 lb ft). 3. Connect the Oxygen Sensor 1 electrical
connector.
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Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Heated Oxygen Sensor 2
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTICE: The Heated Oxygen Sensors each use a permanently attached pigtail and connector.
This pigtail should not be removed from the heated oxygen sensor. Damage or removal of the
pigtail or connector could affect proper operation of the heated oxygen sensor.
IMPORTANT: Take care when handling the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 (HO2S 2). The in-line
electrical connector and louvered end like the 02S 1 must be kept free of grease, dirt or other
contaminants. Avoid using cleaning solvents of any type. DO NOT drop or roughly handle the
HO2S 2.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the HO2S 2 electrical connector.
NOTICE: The use of excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust pipe.
3. Carefully remove the rear heated oxygen sensor 2.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the HO2S 2 sensor threads. The
compound consists of a liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite will burn away, but the glass
beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will already have
the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from the exhaust, and if for any
reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have an anti-seize compound applied before
reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads of the HO2S 2 with anti-seize compound, if necessary. 2. Install the HO2S 2.
Tighten the HO2S 2 to 41 Nm (30 lb ft). 3. Connect the HO2S 2 electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
TP Screws 3 Nm
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Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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and Instructions > Page 4800
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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and Instructions > Page 4801
Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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and Instructions > Page 4802
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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and Instructions > Page 4803
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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and Instructions > Page 4804
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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and Instructions > Page 4805
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 4806
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 4807
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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and Instructions > Page 4808
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 4809
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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and Instructions > Page 4810
Wiring Diagram
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
TP Sensor Service
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor (2) is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the
throttle body. The TP sensor electrical circuit consists of a 5 volt supply line and a ground line, both
provided by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and a signal line to the PCM. By monitoring the
voltage on this signal line, the PCM can calculate throttle position angle in a percentage. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor also
changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low (approximately 0.6 volt).
As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage
should be near 5 volts.
The PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or
loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle,
because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A high or low voltage problem in the TP sensor
circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123. The PCM also has the capability of setting a
DTC P0121 if the sensor is reading out of range. Once a diagnostic trouble code is set, the PCM
will use a default value for the TP sensor, and some vehicle performance will return.
See TP Sensor Replacement for replacement of the TP sensor. The TP sensor is not adjustable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the PCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Tables for testing information. See: Testing and Inspection
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
TP Sensor Service
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator. 2. Remove the throttle body. 3. Remove the TP sensor
attaching screws (1). 4. Remove the TP sensor (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed (idle) position, install the throttle position sensor (2)
on the throttle body assembly.
IMPORTANT: Install the new TP sensor attaching screws when replacing the TP sensor.
2. Install the two TP sensor screws (1). Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (27 lb in). 3. Install the throttle
body. 4. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 4822
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 4823
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 4829
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 4830
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 4831
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 4832
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 4835
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
4836
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
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Diagnostic Chart
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Page 4842
Component Location Views
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Page 4843
Component Location Views
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Page 4844
Component Location Views
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Page 4845
Component Location Views
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Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (3T40)
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Wiring Diagram
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a permanent magnet generator in the transaxle which sends
an AC voltage signal to the PCM, which the PCM converts to Kilometers Per Hour (km/h) and Miles
Per Hour (MPH). There are several different types of vehicle speed sensors.
Refer to Automatic Transmission for more information.
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Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
TP Screws 3 Nm
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Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
TP Sensor Service
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor (2) is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the
throttle body. The TP sensor electrical circuit consists of a 5 volt supply line and a ground line, both
provided by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and a signal line to the PCM. By monitoring the
voltage on this signal line, the PCM can calculate throttle position angle in a percentage. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor also
changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low (approximately 0.6 volt).
As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage
should be near 5 volts.
The PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or
loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle,
because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A high or low voltage problem in the TP sensor
circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123. The PCM also has the capability of setting a
DTC P0121 if the sensor is reading out of range. Once a diagnostic trouble code is set, the PCM
will use a default value for the TP sensor, and some vehicle performance will return.
See TP Sensor Replacement for replacement of the TP sensor. The TP sensor is not adjustable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the PCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Tables for testing information. See: Testing and Inspection
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
TP Sensor Service
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator. 2. Remove the throttle body. 3. Remove the TP sensor
attaching screws (1). 4. Remove the TP sensor (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed (idle) position, install the throttle position sensor (2)
on the throttle body assembly.
IMPORTANT: Install the new TP sensor attaching screws when replacing the TP sensor.
2. Install the two TP sensor screws (1). Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (27 lb in). 3. Install the throttle
body. 4. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
4933
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
4934
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 4940
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 4941
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4942
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4943
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 4946
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4947
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4948
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Component Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 4953
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 4954
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 4955
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 4956
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4959
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4960
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4961
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4962
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4963
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4964
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4965
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4966
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4967
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4968
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4969
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4984
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4985
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4986
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4987
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4988
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4989
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4990
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (3T40)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4991
Wiring Diagram
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4992
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a permanent magnet generator in the transaxle which sends
an AC voltage signal to the PCM, which the PCM converts to Kilometers Per Hour (km/h) and Miles
Per Hour (MPH). There are several different types of vehicle speed sensors.
Refer to Automatic Transmission for more information.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Specifications
Canister Purge Control Valve: Specifications
Bracket Attaching Nut 70-106 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5001
Canister Purge Control Valve: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5002
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5003
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Valve
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5004
Canister Purge Control Valve: Description and Operation
EVAP Canister Purge Valve
When energized, the evaporative Canister Purge Valve allows the fuel vapor to flow from the EVAP
canister to the engine. The normally closed valve is pulse width modulated by the Control Module
in order to precisely control the vapor flow. The valve opens during the Enhanced Evaporative
Diagnostic Test in order to create a vacuum in the fuel tank and then closed in order to seal the
system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Solenoid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5008
Canister Purge Solenoid: Service and Repair
Description
Description
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the purge valve electrical connector. 2. Remove the hoses to the purge valve. 3.
Remove the purge valve (1) from the mounting bracket (2).
Description
4. When replacing the bracket, remove the purge valve mounting bracket attaching nut (1). 5.
Remove the purge valve mounting bracket (2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5009
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the purge valve mounting bracket (2) and the attaching nut (1). Tighten the purge valve
mounting bracket attaching nut to 8-12 Nm (70-106
lb in).
2. Slide the purge valve (1) into the mounting bracket (2). 3. Install the hoses to the purge valve. 4.
Install the valve electrical connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Canister Vent Valve > Component Information > Description and Operation
Canister Vent Valve: Description and Operation
The Evaporative Canister Vent Valve replaces the fresh air vent used on the past EVAP canisters.
The vent valve now not only allows the fresh outside air to the EVAP canister during the purge
modes, but also allows the diagnostic to pull a vacuum on the fuel tank by closing the vent valve.
This valve is normally open.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Canister Vent Valve > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Page 5014
Canister Vent Valve: Service and Repair
Evap Canister And Vent Valve
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the RH engine splash shield. 2. Disconnect the vent solenoid electrical connector. 3.
Remove the vent solenoid hose clamp. 4. Disconnect the hose (3) to the vent solenoid (4). 5.
Remove the vent solenoid (4) from mounting bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Slide the vent solenoid onto the mounting bracket. 2. Lubricate the hose ends with lubricant. 3.
Connect the hose (3) to the vent solenoid (4). 4. Connect the vent solenoid hose clamp. 5. Connect
the vent solenoid electrical connector. 6. Install the RH engine splash shield.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emissions Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair
Evaporative Emissions Hose: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: In order to Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury:
^ If nylon fuel pipes are nicked, scratched or damaged during installation, Do Not attempt to repair
the sections of the nylon fuel pipes. Replace them.
^ When installing new fuel pipes, Do Not hammer directly on the fuel harness body clips as it may
damage the nylon pipes resulting in a possible fuel leak.
^ Always cover nylon vapor pipes with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never
expose the vehicle to temperatures higher than 115°C (239°F) for more than one how; or more
than 9O°C (194°F) for any extended period.
^ Before connecting fuel pipe fittings, always apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe
ends. This will ensure proper reconnection and prevent a possible fuel leak. (During normal
operation, the O-rings located in the female connector will swell and may prevent proper
reconnection if not lubricated.)
NOTICE: Replace the EVAP pipes and hoses with the original equipment or parts that meet the
GM specifications for those parts. The replacement EVAP pipe must have the same type of fittings
as the original pipe in order to ensure the integrity of the connection. When replacing EVAP hoses,
use only reinforced fuel-resistant hose identified with the word Fluoroelastomer or GM 6163-M on
the hose. The inside hose diameter must match the outside pipe diameter. Do not use rubber hose
within 100 mm (4 in) of any part of the exhaust system or within 254 mm (10 in) of the catalytic
converter.
1. Remove the retaining hardware and clamps as necessary. 2. Note the location and position for
future reference. 3. Inspect the hoses and vapor lines for cuts, swelling, cracks, kinks and
distortion. 4. Remove the pipe or hose.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Follow the same routing as the original pipe or hose.
1. Install the vapor line or hose. 2. Install the retaining hardware and clamps.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative System Service Port > Component Information > Description and Operation
Evaporative System Service Port: Description and Operation
Enhanced Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Service Port
The Evaporative System Service Port is located in the evaporative hose located between the purge
solenoid and the canister. The service port is identified by a green colored cap. The port contains a
schrader valve and fittings in order to allow the connection of the service tool kit Enhanced EVAP
Pressure Purge Diagnostic Cart J 41413.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications
EGR Valve: Specifications
Flange Attaching Nut 19 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5025
EGR Valve: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5026
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5027
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve (LN2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5028
EGR Valve: Description and Operation
Purpose
An Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is used to lower Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) emission
levels caused by high combustion temperatures. It accomplishes this by feeding small amounts of
exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber. When the air/fuel mixture is diluted with the
exhaust gases, combustion temperatures are reduced.
Linear EGR Valve
A linear EGR valve is used on this system. The linear EGR valve is designed to accurately supply
exhaust gases to the engine without the use of intake manifold vacuum. The valve controls exhaust
flow going into the intake manifold from the exhaust manifold through an orifice with a PCM
controlled pintle. The PCM controls the pintle position using inputs from the Throttle Position (TP)
and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensors. The PCM then commands the EGR valve to
operate when necessary by controlling a voltage signal through the PCM. This can be monitored
on a scan tool as the desired EGR position.
Linear EGR Control
The PCM monitors the results of its command through a feedback signal. By sending a 5 volt
reference and a ground to the EGR valve, a voltage signal representing the EGR valve pintle
position is sent to the PCM. This feedback signal can also be monitored on a scan tool and is the
actual position of the EGR pintle. The actual EGR position should always be near the commanded
or the desired EGR position.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5029
EGR Valve: Service and Repair
Description
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the EGR electrical connector. 2. Remove the EGR valve flange nuts (1). 3. Remove the
EGR valve (2) and the gasket (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With a new gasket (3), install the EGR valve (2). 2. Install the EGR valve and the flange
attaching nuts (1). Tighten the EGR valve flange attaching nuts to 26 Nm (19 lb ft). 3. Install the
electrical connectors.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Fillpipe Restrictor > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Fillpipe Restrictor: Description and Operation
Fuel Filler Neck And Cap
To help prevent refueling with leaded fuel, the fuel filler neck (1) has a built in restrictor and
deflector. The opening in the restrictor will accept only the smaller unleaded gasoline fuel nozzle
which must be fully inserted to bypass the deflector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Pressure
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel System Pressure
Fuel System Pressure
Key On Engine Off 41-47 psi
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Pressure > Page 5038
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Volume
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 5039
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 5040
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 5041
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 5042
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 5043
Diagnostic Chart
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will turn ON the
in-tank fuel pump. The in-tank fuel pump will remain ON as long as the engine is cranking or
running and the PCM is receiving reference pulses. If there are no reference pulses, the PCM will
turn OFF the in-tank fuel pump for 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON or for 2 seconds
after the engine stops running. The in-tank fuel pump is an electric pump within an integral
reservoir. The in-tank fuel pump supplies fuel through an in-line fuel filter to the fuel rail assembly.
The fuel pump is designed to provide fuel at a pressure above the pressure that is needed by the
fuel injectors. A fuel pressure regulator, attached to the fuel rail assembly, keeps the fuel available
to the fuel injectors at a regulated pressure. The unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank by a
separate fuel return pipe.
TEST DESCRIPTION
The number(s) below refer(s) to the step number(s) on the Diagnostic Table.
2. In order to relieve the fuel pressure, go to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure When the ignition is
ON and the fuel pump is running, the fuel pressure
indicated by the fuel pressure gauge should be 284-325 kPa (41-47 psi).
3. A fuel system that drops more than 5 psi in 10 minutes has a leak in one or more of the following
areas:
^ The fuel pump check valve
^ The fuel pump flex pipe
^ The valve or valve seat within the fuel pressure regulator
^ The fuel injector(s)
5. Fuel pressure that drops-off during acceleration, cruise or hard cornering may cause a lean
condition. A lean condition can cause a loss of power,
surging, or a misfire. You can use a scan tool in order to diagnose a lean condition. If an extremely
lean condition occurs, the oxygen sensors will stop toggling. The oxygen sensor output voltage(s)
will drop below 500 mV. Also, the fuel injector pulse width will increase.
8. When the engine is idling, the manifold pressure is low (high vacuum). This low pressure (high
vacuum) is applied to the fuel pressure regulator
diaphragm. The low pressure (high vacuum) will offset the pressure being applied to the fuel
pressure regulator diaphragm by the spring inside of
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 5044
the fuel pressure regulator. This will cause lower fuel pressure. The fuel pressure at idle will vary
slightly as the barometric pressure changes, but the fuel pressure at idle should always be less
than the fuel pressure noted in Step 2 with the engine turned OFF.
12. A rich condition may result from the fuel pressure being above 325 kPa (47 psi). A rich
condition can cause a DTC P0132 or a DTC P0172 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with rich conditions can include hard starting (followed by
black smoke) and a strong sulfur smell in the exhaust.
13. This test determines if the high fuel pressure is due to a restricted fuel return pipe or if the high
fuel pressure is due to a malfunctioning fuel
pressure regulator.
15. Fuel pressure being below 284 kPa (41 psi) can cause a lean condition. A lean condition may
cause a DTC P0131 or a DTC P0171 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with lean conditions can include hard starting (when the
engine is cold), a hesitation, poor driveability, a lack of power, surging, and misfiring.
16. Restricting the fuel flow causes the fuel pressure to rise above the regulated fuel pressure.
Using a scan tool in order to pressurize the system, the
fuel pressure should rise above 325 kPa (47 psi) as the gauge outlet hose is pinched.
22. Check the spark plug that is associated with a particular fuel injector for fouling or saturation in
order to determine if that particular fuel injector is
leaking.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Procedure
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank pressure (do not tighten at this time). 2.
Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Start
and run the engine until the fuel supply remaining in the fuel pipes is consumed. Engage the starter
for 3.0 seconds in order to assure relief of
any remaining pressure.
6. Raise the vehicle. 7. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9.
Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Specifications
Accelerator Pedal: Specifications Accelerator Control Pedal
Accelerator Control Pedal
Nuts 30 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 5054
Accelerator Pedal: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove left sound insulator. 2. Remove the release cable (1) retainer from lever assembly. 3.
Remove the nuts to cowl. 4. Remove the pedal assembly (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the pedal assembly (2) to cowl. 2. Install the nuts to cowl. Tighten the nuts to 30 Nm (25 lb
ft). 3. Slip accelerator cable (1) through slot in rod and then install retainer in rod, being sure it is
seated. 4. Install the left sound insulator.
IMPORTANT: Flexible components (hoses, wires, conduits, etc.) must not be routed within 50 mm
(2.0 in) of moving parts of accelerator linkage outboard of support unless routing is positively
controlled.
5. Check for correct opening and closing positions by operating accelerator pedal. Make sure that
the throttle valve reaches wide-open throttle
position. If it does not, inspect for damaged or bent brackets, levers, or other components; or, for
poor carpet in under the accelerator pedal.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air
Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
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Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 5067
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 5073
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5074
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the upper air cleaner screws. 2. Remove the upper air cleaner cover (1). 3. Remove the
air cleaner filter (2) from lower air cleaner housing (3). 4. Inspect the air cleaner filter for dust, dirt
and water. 5. Replace if required. Refer to Maintenance.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the air cleaner filter (2) into the lower air cleaner housing (3). 2. Install the upper air
cleaner cover (1) to lower air cleaner housing. 3. Install the upper air cleaner screws. Tighten the
upper air cleaner cover screws to 3 Nm (26 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5079
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5081
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5082
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5084
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5085
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5087
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5092
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fillpipe Restrictor >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Fillpipe Restrictor: Description and Operation
Fuel Filler Neck And Cap
To help prevent refueling with leaded fuel, the fuel filler neck (1) has a built in restrictor and
deflector. The opening in the restrictor will accept only the smaller unleaded gasoline fuel nozzle
which must be fully inserted to bypass the deflector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada)
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-06-04-022G
Date: October 27, 2010
Subject: TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Information and Available Brands (Deposits, Fuel
Economy, No Start, Power, Performance, Stall Concerns) - Canada ONLY
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Canada Only)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and include an additional
gasoline brand as a TOP TIER source. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-022F
(Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System). In the U.S., refer to the latest version of Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-047I.
A new class of fuel called TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is appearing at retail stations of some fuel
marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by six automotive companies. All
vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" recommended by the Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB). Those
vehicles that have experienced deposit related concerns may especially benefit from use of TOP
TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Intake valve: 16,093 km (10,000 mi) with TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline
Intake valve: 16,093 km (10,000 mi) with Minimum Additive recommended by the CGSB
Top Tier Fuel Availability
Chevron was the first to offer TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline in Canada. Shell became the first
national gasoline retailer to offer TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline across Canada. Petro-Canada
began offering TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline nationally as of October 1, 2006. Sunoco began
offering TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline in March of 2007. Esso began offering TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline in May of 2010.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5117
Gasoline Brands That Currently Meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards
The following gasoline brands meet the TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards in all octane
grades :
Chevron Canada (markets in British Columbia and western Alberta)
- Shell Canada (nationally)
- Petro-Canada (nationally)
- Sunoco-Canada (Ontario)
- Esso-Canada (nationally)
What is TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency and no
metallic additives. It meets new, voluntary deposit control standards developed by six automotive
companies that exceed the detergent recommendations of Canadian standards and does not
contain metallic additives, which can damage vehicle emission control components.
Where Can TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Be Purchased?
The TOP TIER program began in the U.S. and Canada on May 3, 2004. Some fuel marketers have
already joined and introduced TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not
all fuel marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, they will
appear on a list of brands that meet the TOP TIER standards.
Who developed TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by six automotive companies: BMW,
General Motors, Honda, Toyota, Volkswagen and Audi.
Why was TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline developed?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in
gasoline. In the U.S., government regulations require that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a
detergent additive. However, the requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to
keep engines clean. In Canada, gasoline standards recommend adherence to U.S. detergency
requirements but do not require it. In fact, many brands of gasoline in Canada do not contain any
detergent additive. In order to meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of
detergent is needed than what is required or recommended, and no metallic additives are allowed.
Also, TOP TIER was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to differentiate their product.
Why did the six automotive companies join together to develop TOP TIER?
All six corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining
together emphasized that low detergency and the intentional addition of metallic additives is an
issue of concern to several automotive companies.
What are the benefits of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" recommended by Canadian standards. Clean engines help provide optimal
fuel economy and engine performance, and also provide reduced emissions. Also, the use of TOP
TIER Detergent Gasoline will help reduce deposit related concerns.
Who should use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
All vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the
"Lowest Additive Concentration" recommended by Canadian standards. Those vehicles that have
experienced deposit related concerns may especially benefit from use of TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline. More information on TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline can be found at this website,
http://www.toptiergas.com/.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5118
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5119
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - 'TOP TIER' Detergent Gasoline Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-047I
Date: August 17, 2009
Subject: TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Deposits, Fuel Economy, No Start, Power, Performance,
Stall Concerns) - U.S. Only
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) (U.S. Only) 2003-2010
HUMMER H2 (U.S. Only) 2006-2010 HUMMER H3 (U.S. Only) 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X (U.S. Only)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and additional sources to the Top Tier
Fuel Retailers list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-047H (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System). In Canada, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-022F.
A new class of fuel called TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is appearing at retail stations of some fuel
marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by six automotive companies. All
vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Those vehicles that have experienced deposit related
concerns may especially benefit from the use of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Intake valve: - 10,000 miles with TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline
Intake valve: - 10,000 miles with Legal Minimum additive
Gasoline Brands That Currently Meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards
As of August 1, 2009, all grades of the following gasoline brands meet the TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline Standards:
- Chevron
- Chevron-Canada
- QuikTrip
- Conoco
Phillips 66
- 76
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5120
- Shell
- Shell-Canada
- Entec Stations located in the greater Montgomery, Alabama area.
- MFA Oil Company located throughout Missouri.
- Kwik Trip, Inc. in Minnesota and Wisconsin and Kwik Star convenience stores in Iowa.
The Somerset Refinery, Inc. at Somerset Oil stations in Kentucky.
Aloha Petroleum
- Tri-Par Oil Company
- Turkey Hill Minit Markets
- Texaco
- Petro-Canada
- Sunoco-Canada
- Road Ranger located in Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Missouri, Ohio and Wisconsin
What is TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency. It meets new,
voluntary deposit control standards developed by six automotive companies that exceed the
detergent requirements imposed by the EPA.
Where Can TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Be Purchased?
The TOP TIER program began on May 3, 2004 and many fuel marketers have joined the program
and have introduced TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not all fuel
marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, they will appear
on a list of brands that meet the TOP TIER standards.
Where Can I find the Latest Information on TOP TIER Fuel and Retailers?
On the web, please visit www.toptiergas.com for additional information and updated retailer lists.
Who developed TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by six automotive companies: Audi,
BMW, General Motors, Honda, Toyota and Volkswagen.
Why was TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline developed?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in
gasoline. The EPA requires that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a detergent additive. However,
the requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to keep engines clean. In order to
meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of detergent is needed than what is
required by the EPA. Also, TOP TIER was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to
differentiate their product.
Why did the six automotive companies join together to develop TOP TIER?
All six corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining
together emphasized that low detergency is an issue of concern to several automotive companies.
What are the benefits of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Clean engines help provide optimal fuel economy and
performance and reduced emissions. Also, use of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help reduce
deposit related concerns.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5121
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - E85 Fuel Usage Precautions
Bulletin No.: 05-06-04-035C
Date: July 30, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Usage of E85 Fuels in GM Vehicles
Models: 1997-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2003-2008 HUMMER H2
2006-2008 HUMMER H3 1997-2008 Isuzu NPR Commercial Medium Duty Trucks 2005-2008
Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 model year and additional engines with E85
capability. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-035B (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Customer Interest in E85 Fuel
As the retail price of gasoline increases, some locations in the country are seeing price differentials
between regular gasoline and E85 where E85 is selling for substantially less than regular grade
gasoline. One result of this is that some customers have inquired if they are able to use E85 fuel in
non-E85 compatible vehicles.
Only vehicles designated for use with E85 should use E85 blended fuel.
E85 compatibility is designated for vehicles that are certified to run on up to 85% ethanol and 15%
gasoline. All other gasoline engines are designed to run on fuel that contains no more than 10%
ethanol.
Use of fuel containing greater than 10% ethanol in non-E85 designated vehicles can cause
driveability issues, service engine soon indicators as well as increased fuel system corrosion.
Using E85 Fuels in Non-Compatible Vehicles
General Motors is aware of an increased number of cases where customers have fueled
non-FlexFuel designated vehicles with E85. Fueling non-FlexFuel designated vehicles with E85, or
with fuels where the concentration of ethanol exceeds the ASTM specification of 10%, will result in
one or more of the following conditions:
Lean Driveability concerns such as hesitations, sags and/or possible stalling.
SES lights due to OBD codes.
Fuel Trim codes P0171 and/or P0174.
Misfire codes (P0300).
Various 02 sensor codes.
Disabled traction control or Stability System disabled messages.
Harsh/Firm transmission shifts.
Fuel system and/or engine mechanical component degradation.
Use of fuel containing greater than 10% ethanol in non-E85 designated vehicles can cause
driveability issues, service engine soon indicators as well as increased fuel system corrosion.
If the dealer suspects that a non-FlexFuel designated vehicle brought in for service has been
fueled with E85, the fuel in the vehicle's tank should be checked for alcohol content with tool J
44175. If the alcohol content exceeds 10% the fuel should be drained and the vehicle refilled with
gasoline - preferably one of the Top Tier brands.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5122
Repairs to non-FlexFuel vehicles that have been fueled with E85 are not covered under the terms
of the New Vehicle Warranty.
A complete list of GM's FlexFuel vehicles can be found in this Service Bulletin, or at
www.livegreengoyellow.com.
E85 Compatible Vehicles
The only E85 compatible vehicles produced by General Motors are shown.
Only vehicles that are listed in the E85 Compatible Vehicles section of this bulletin and/or
www.livegreengoyellow.com are E85 compatible.
All other gasoline and diesel engines are NOT E85 compatible.
Use of fuel containing greater than 10% ethanol in non-E85 designated vehicles can cause
driveability issues, service engine soon indicators as well as increased fuel system corrosion.
Repairs to non-FlexFuel vehicles that have been fueled with E85 are not covered under the terms
of the New Vehicle Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5123
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel - Top Tier Detergent Gasoline Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-00-047
Date: June 24, 2004
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Top Tier Detergent Gasoline (Deposits, Fuel Economy, No Start, Power, Performance,
Stall Concerns)
Models: 2005 and Prior All General Motors Passenger Cars and Trucks (U.S. Only)
A new class of gasoline, called Top Tier Detergent Gasoline, will be appearing at retail stations of
some fuel marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by four automotive
companies. A description of the concept and benefits of Top Tier is provided in the following
question and answer section.
What is Top Tier Detergent Gasoline?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency. It meets new,
voluntary deposit control standards developed by four automotive companies that exceed the
detergent requirements imposed by the EPA.
Who developed Top Tier Detergent Gasoline standards?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by four automotive companies: BMW,
General Motors, Honda and Toyota.
Why was Top Tier Detergent Gasoline developed?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in gasoline.
The EPA requires that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a detergent additive. However, the
requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to keep engines clean. In order to meet
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of detergent is needed than what is required
by the EPA. Also, Top Tier was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to differentiate
their product.
Why did the four automotive companies join together to develop Top Tier?
All four corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining
together emphasized that low detergency is an issue of concern to several automotive companies.
What are the benefits of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Clean engines help provide optimal fuel economy and
performance and reduced emissions. Also, use of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline will help reduce
deposit related concerns.
Who should use Top Tier Detergent Gasoline?
All vehicles will benefit from using Top Tier Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the
"Lowest Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Those vehicles that have experienced deposit
related concerns may especially benefit from use of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline.
Where can Top Tier Detergent Gasoline be purchased?
The Top Tier program began on May 3, 2004. Some fuel marketers have already joined and are
making plans to introduce Top Tier Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not all fuel
marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, a list of all fuel
marketers meeting Top Tier standards will be made available. For now, look for the "Top Tier"
designation at the gas pump.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5124
Fuel: Description and Operation
The following information appears in the General Motors owner's manual for this vehicle.
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet
specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline
specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association
(AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA
specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared
to other gasolines.
Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy
knocking noise when you drive. If it's bad enough, it can damage your engine.
If you're using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine
needs service. But don't worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you're accelerating or driving
up a hill. That's normal, and you don't have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It's the
heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. If your vehicle is certified to meet California
Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels
that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California
emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications,
but emission control system performance may be affected.
The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a
smog-check test. If this occurs, return to a qualified service outlet for diagnosis to determine the
cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels
used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive
called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator
whether or not his fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such
gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission
control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument
panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to a qualified service outlet for service.
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that
will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission
control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In
addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines
may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use
these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.
NOTICE: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don't use it. It can corrode
metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn't
be covered under your warranty.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5125
Fuel: Testing and Inspection
Draw the fuel sample from the bottom of the tank in order to detect any water present in the tank.
The sample should be bright and clear. If the sample appears cloudy, or contaminated with water
(as indicated by a water layer at the bottom of the sample), Do Not use this procedure. Go to Fuel
System Cleaning.
1. Fill a 100 ml cylinder with fuel to the 90 ml mark. 2. Add 10 ml of water to bring the total fluid
volume to 100 ml. Install a stopper on the cylinder. 3. Shake the cylinder vigorously for 10 to 15
seconds. 4. Carefully loosen the stopper to release the pressure. 5. Close the stopper and shake
the cylinder vigorously again for 10 to 15 seconds. 6. Put the graduated cylinder on a level surface
for approximately 5 minutes to allow adequate liquid separation.
If alcohol is present in the fuel, the volume of the lower layer (which would now contain both alcohol
and water) will be greater than 10 ml. For example, if the volume of the lower layer increases to 15
ml, it indicates at least 5 percent alcohol in the fuel. The actual amount of alcohol may be
somewhat greater because this procedure does not extract all of the alcohol from the fuel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filler Cap > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Filler Cap: Description and Operation
Fuel Filler Neck And Cap
NOTICE: If a fuel tank filler pipe cap requires replacement, use only a fuel tank filler pipe cap with
the same features. Failure to use the correct fuel tank filler pipe cap can result in a sedous
malfunction of the fuel system.
The fuel tank filler neck (1) is equipped with a quarter-turn type fuel filler cap (2). A built in ratchet
type torque limiting device prevents over tightening. In order to install, turn the fuel filler cap
clockwise until a clicking noise is heard. This signals that the correct torque has been reached and
the fuel filler cap is fully seated. A fuel filler cap that is not fully seated, may cause a malfunction in
the emission system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Procedure
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank pressure (do not tighten at this time). 2.
Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Start
and run the engine until the fuel supply remaining in the fuel pipes is consumed. Engage the starter
for 3.0 seconds in order to assure relief of
any remaining pressure.
6. Raise the vehicle. 7. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9.
Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Fuel Injector: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-051B
Date: January 04, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Maintenance Cleaning of Fuel Injectors
Models: 2006 and Prior All General Motors Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2006 HUMMER H2
2006 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years and update the name and part
number of GM Fuel System Treatment. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-051A
(Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
General Motors is aware that some companies are marketing tools, equipment and programs to
support fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance procedure. General Motors does not
endorse, support or acknowledge the need for fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance
procedure. Fuel injector cleaning is approved only when performed as directed by a published GM
driveability or DTC diagnostic service procedure.
Due to variation in fuel quality in different areas of the country, the only preventative maintenance
currently endorsed by GM regarding its gasoline engine fuel systems is the addition of GM Fuel
System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco(R), use P/N 88861013) (in Canada,
P/N 88861012), added to a tank of fuel at each oil change. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
03-06-04-030A for proper cleaning instructions.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Fuel Injector: Electrical Specifications
Voltage
Voltage ECT between 50-95 degrees F (10-35 degrees C)
Injector Voltage Reading 4.7- 5.8 Volts
Please refer to Fuel Injector Coil Test procedure at
Computers and Contol Systems Testing.
Resistance Ohms
Resistance Ohms ECT between 50 - 95 degrees F (10 - 35 degrees C)
Ohms 1.95-2.3
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 5139
Fuel Injector: Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature Specifications Fuel Injector Pressure Drop
Fuel Injector Pressure Drop If the pressure drop value for each injector is within 1.5 psi of the
average drop value the fuel injectors are flowing properly.
Pressure Drop 1.5 psi
Fuel Injector Balance Test Example (Typical)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 5140
Fuel Injector: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 5141
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Injector: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5144
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5145
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Injector: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5174
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5175
Fuel Injector: Connector Views
Fuel Injector #1
Fuel Injector #2
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Fuel Injector #4
Fuel Injector #3
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Fuel Injector: Description and Operation
The fuel injector assembly is a solenoid-operated device, controlled by the PCM, that meters
pressurized fuel to a single engine cylinder. The PCM energizes the fuel injector solenoid (3),
which opens a ball valve (1), allowing fuel to flow past the ball valve, and through a recessed flow
director plate (2) at the injector outlet. The director plate has machined holes that control the fuel
flow, generating a conical spray pattern of finely atomized fuel at the injector tip. Fuel from the tip is
directed at the intake valve, causing it to become further atomized and vaporized before entering
the combustion chamber. A fuel injector that is stuck partly open would cause loss of pressure after
the engine is shut down, so long crank times would be noticed on some engines.
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Fuel Injector: Testing and Inspection
Most GM manufacturers now use a voltage drop and/or a fuel pressure drop test to measure Fuel
Injector Coil Integrity.
These test sequences can be found in Computers and Control Systems, under A, C or System
Diagnostic Charts. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Within these tests you might find an "Ohm" reading of the Injector, but generally this measurement
is No Longer Used to solely determine the Pass/Fail quality of the Injector coil.
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Fuel Injector: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components In order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal injury. After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of
fuel may be released when servicing the fuel lines or connections. In order to reduce the chance of
personal Injury cover the regulator and the fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting.
This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel In an approved container when the
dIsconnection is complete.
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the air
cleaner resonator. 4. Remove the fuel rail. 5. Remove the fuel injector retaining clip (2). 6. Remove
the fuel injector (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Each fuel injector is calibrated for a specific flow rate. When replacing fuel injectors,
be sure to order the correct fuel injector for the application being serviced.
IMPORTANT: When installing the fuel injector, care should be taken not to tear or mis-align the fuel
injector O.rings.
1. Lubricate new fuel injector O-ring seals (1) (4) (5) with clean engine oil, and install on fuel
injector assembly (3). 2. Install the fuel injector upper O-ring (1). 3. Install the fuel injector lower
backup O-ring (4). 4. Install the fuel injector lower O-ring (5). 5. Install the fuel injector (3) to the fuel
rail. 6. Install the fuel injector retaining clip (2). 7. Install the fuel rail. 8. Install the air cleaner
resonator. 9. Connect the negative battery cable.
10. Inspect for leaks through the following steps:
10.1. Turn the ignition switch ON for two seconds. 10.2. Turn the ignition switch 0FF for ten
seconds. 10.3. Turn the ignition switch ON. 10.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Specifications
Bracket Attaching Screw 31 in.lb
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Component Information > Specifications > Page 5183
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Description and Operation
The fuel pressure regulator assembly is a diaphragm-operated relief valve with fuel pump pressure
on one side, and a regulator spring pressure and intake manifold vacuum on the other side. The
regulator's function is to maintain a constant pressure differential across the injectors at all times.
The pressure regulator compensates for engine load by increasing the fuel pressure as the engine
vacuum drops. The fuel pressure regulator is serviced as a complete assembly. With the ignition
ON and engine OFF (zero vacuum), fuel pressure should be 284-325 kPa (41-47 psi). Whenever
the pressure is too low, poor performance and a DTC P0171 could result. Whenever the pressure
is too high, excessive odor and a DTC P0172 could result.
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Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair
Description
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the air cleaner
outlet resonator. 4. Remove the fuel rail bracket (1). 5. Remove the pressure regulator bracket
attaching screw (3).
IMPORTANT: If the fuel pressure regulator is to be reinstalled, inspect filter screen for
contamination. If contaminated, remove and discard.
6. Remove the pressure regulator assembly (2) and O-ring (4) (discard O-ring).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Lubricate new pressure regulator O-ring (4) with clean engine oil, then install on pressure
regulator (2). 2. Install the pressure regulator bracket attaching screw (3) coated with appropriate
thread-locking material. Tighten the pressure regulator bracket
attaching screw to 3.5 Nm (31 lb in).
3. Install the fuel rail bracket (1).
3.1. Tighten the fuel rail bracket nut (4) to 10 Nm (89 lbs in). 3.2. Tighten the fuel rail bracket nut (3)
to 25 Nm (18 lbs ft). 3.3. Tighten the fuel rail bracket bolt (2) to 25 Nm (18 lbs ft).
4. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Inspect for leaks
through the following steps:
^ Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds.
^ Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
^ Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 5185
^ Check for fuel leaks.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 5189
Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor
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Component Information > Locations > Page 5190
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the system fuel pressure. 3. Drain fuel tank. 4.
Remove the fuel tank. 5. Remove the electrical connector from the fuel tank pressure sensor. 6.
Remove the fuel tank pressure sensor (1) from modular fuel sender.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new fuel tank pressure sensor (1) to modular fuel sender. 2. Install the electrical
connector to fuel tank pressure sensor. 3. Install the fuel tank. 4. Refill tank. 5. Install the negative
battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Pressure
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel System Pressure
Fuel System Pressure
Key On Engine Off 41-47 psi
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System Information > Specifications > Pressure > Page 5196
Fuel Pressure: Specifications Volume
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
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System Information > Specifications > Page 5197
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
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System Information > Specifications > Page 5198
Diagnostic Chart
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System Information > Specifications > Page 5199
Diagnostic Chart
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System Information > Specifications > Page 5200
Diagnostic Chart
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System Information > Specifications > Page 5201
Diagnostic Chart
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will turn ON the
in-tank fuel pump. The in-tank fuel pump will remain ON as long as the engine is cranking or
running and the PCM is receiving reference pulses. If there are no reference pulses, the PCM will
turn OFF the in-tank fuel pump for 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON or for 2 seconds
after the engine stops running. The in-tank fuel pump is an electric pump within an integral
reservoir. The in-tank fuel pump supplies fuel through an in-line fuel filter to the fuel rail assembly.
The fuel pump is designed to provide fuel at a pressure above the pressure that is needed by the
fuel injectors. A fuel pressure regulator, attached to the fuel rail assembly, keeps the fuel available
to the fuel injectors at a regulated pressure. The unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank by a
separate fuel return pipe.
TEST DESCRIPTION
The number(s) below refer(s) to the step number(s) on the Diagnostic Table.
2. In order to relieve the fuel pressure, go to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure When the ignition is
ON and the fuel pump is running, the fuel pressure
indicated by the fuel pressure gauge should be 284-325 kPa (41-47 psi).
3. A fuel system that drops more than 5 psi in 10 minutes has a leak in one or more of the following
areas:
^ The fuel pump check valve
^ The fuel pump flex pipe
^ The valve or valve seat within the fuel pressure regulator
^ The fuel injector(s)
5. Fuel pressure that drops-off during acceleration, cruise or hard cornering may cause a lean
condition. A lean condition can cause a loss of power,
surging, or a misfire. You can use a scan tool in order to diagnose a lean condition. If an extremely
lean condition occurs, the oxygen sensors will stop toggling. The oxygen sensor output voltage(s)
will drop below 500 mV. Also, the fuel injector pulse width will increase.
8. When the engine is idling, the manifold pressure is low (high vacuum). This low pressure (high
vacuum) is applied to the fuel pressure regulator
diaphragm. The low pressure (high vacuum) will offset the pressure being applied to the fuel
pressure regulator diaphragm by the spring inside of
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System Information > Specifications > Page 5202
the fuel pressure regulator. This will cause lower fuel pressure. The fuel pressure at idle will vary
slightly as the barometric pressure changes, but the fuel pressure at idle should always be less
than the fuel pressure noted in Step 2 with the engine turned OFF.
12. A rich condition may result from the fuel pressure being above 325 kPa (47 psi). A rich
condition can cause a DTC P0132 or a DTC P0172 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with rich conditions can include hard starting (followed by
black smoke) and a strong sulfur smell in the exhaust.
13. This test determines if the high fuel pressure is due to a restricted fuel return pipe or if the high
fuel pressure is due to a malfunctioning fuel
pressure regulator.
15. Fuel pressure being below 284 kPa (41 psi) can cause a lean condition. A lean condition may
cause a DTC P0131 or a DTC P0171 to set.
Driveability conditions that are associated with lean conditions can include hard starting (when the
engine is cold), a hesitation, poor driveability, a lack of power, surging, and misfiring.
16. Restricting the fuel flow causes the fuel pressure to rise above the regulated fuel pressure.
Using a scan tool in order to pressurize the system, the
fuel pressure should rise above 325 kPa (47 psi) as the gauge outlet hose is pinched.
22. Check the spark plug that is associated with a particular fuel injector for fouling or saturation in
order to determine if that particular fuel injector is
leaking.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5207
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5208
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5209
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5210
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5211
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5212
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5213
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5214
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5215
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5234
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5235
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5236
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5237
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5238
Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Fuel Pump Relay
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the relay center cover. 2. Remove the fuel pump relay.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump relay. 2. Install the relay center cover.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Pickup Filter >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Pump Pickup Filter: Description and Operation
A woven plastic strainer is located on the lower end of the fuel sender. This filter prevents dirt from
entering the fuel line and also stops water unless the filter becomes completely submerged in
water. This filter is self cleaning and normally requires no maintenance. Fuel stoppage at this point
indicates that the fuel tank contains an abnormal amount of sediment or water. Therefore, should
this occur, the fuel tank should be removed and thoroughly cleaned and the tank filter replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Pickup Filter >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 5242
Fuel Pump Pickup Filter: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Drain the fuel tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. 4. Remove the fuel
sender assembly. 5. Note the strainer (1) position for future reference. 6. Support the reservoir with
one hand and grasp the strainer with the other hand. 7. Use a screwdriver to pry the strainer ferrule
off the reservoir. 8. Discard the strainer.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new strainer (1) to reservoir. 2. Support the reservoir with one hand and grasp the
strainer with the other hand twisting the strainer into position. 3. Install the fuel sender assembly. 4.
Install the fuel tank. 5. Refill tank. 6. Install the negative battery cable. 7. Inspect for fuel leaks
through the following steps:
7.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 7.2. Turn the ignition switch OFF
position for ten seconds. 7.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 7.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Rail > Component
Information > Specifications
Fuel Rail: Specifications
Attaching Bolts 18 ft.lb
Bracket Nut (Side) 89 in.lb
Bracket Nut (Top) 18 ft.lb
Bracket Bolt 18 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Rail > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 5246
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Rail > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 5247
Fuel Rail: Service and Repair
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the air
cleaner outlet resonator. 4. Remove the fuel rail bracket. 5. Remove the fuel injector electrical
connectors by pushing in the wire connector clip and pulling the electrical connector away from the
fuel
injector.
6. Remove the fuel feed inlet pipe quick connect. 7. Remove the fuel return pipe quick connect. 8.
Remove the fuel rail attaching bolts. 9. Remove the fuel rail assembly from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Insert the fuel rail into the cylinder head. 2. Install the fuel rail attaching bolts. Tighten the fuel rail
attaching bolts to 24 Nm (18 lbs ft). 3. Install the fuel feed inlet pipe quick connect. 4. Install the fuel
return pipe quick connect. 5. Install the fuel injector electrical connectors. 6. Install the fuel rail
bracket.
6.1. Tighten the fuel rail bracket nut (4) to 10 Nm (89 lbs in). 6.2. Tighten the fuel rail bracket nut (3)
to 25 Nm (18 lbs ft). 6.3. Tighten the fuel rail bracket bolt (2) to 25 Nm (18 lbs ft).
7. Connect the negative battery cable. 8. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
8.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 8.2. Turn the ignition switch to the
OFF position for ten seconds. 8.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 8.4. Check for fuel
leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Specifications
Fuel Return Line: Specifications Fuel Return Pipe
Fuel Return Pipe
Retainer Screw 53 in.lb
Fuel Line Clamp Screw 89 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Chassis Hose/Pipes
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair Chassis Hose/Pipes
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the quick-connect fittings at engine compartment fuel
feed and return connecting lines. 3. Plug fuel lines. 4. Raise vehicle. 5. Remove the quick-connect
fittings at fuel sender and nylon fuel feed and return connecting lines. 6. Plug the fuel pipes to
prevent leakage. 7. Remove the fuel pipe mounting hardware from pipes.
NOTICE: If it is necessary to remove rust or burrs from a fuel pipe, use emery cloth in a radial
motion with the fuel pipe end in order to prevent damage to the O-ring sealing surface.
8. Remove the fuel pipes to be serviced. 9. In the repairable areas, cut a piece of fuel hose 100
mm (4 in) longer than portion of the line removed. If more than a 152 mm (6 in) length of pipe
is removed, use a combination of steel pipe and hose so that hose lengths will not be more than
254 mm (10 in), including hose overlap on fuel line.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
1. Position the fuel pipe in the body clips. 2. Install the fuel pipe and hose hardware. 3. Remove the
caps on the fuel pipes. 4. Install the quick-connect fittings on the fuel pipes. Refer to Quick Connect
Fitting(s) Service (Metal Collar). 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Remove the caps covering the fuel lines if
required. 7. Install the engine compartment fuel line quick-connect fittings. 8. Install the fuel filler
cap. 9. Install the negative battery cable.
10. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
10.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 10.2. Turn the ignition switch to
the OFF position for ten seconds. 10.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 10.4. Check for
fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Chassis Hose/Pipes > Page 5253
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair Engine Hose/Pipes
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the quick-connect fittings at engine compartment
fuel feed and return connecting lines. 3. Plug the fuel lines. 4. Remove the engine fuel feed and
return pipe retainer and screws. 5. Remove the fuel return pipe from the fuel pressure regulator
using a back-up wrench. 6. Remove the fuel pipe from fuel rail.
NOTICE: If it is necessary to remove rust or burrs from a fuel pipe, use emery cloth in a radial
motion with the fuel pipe end in order to prevent damage to the O-ring sealing surface.
7. Discard O-rings.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Remove the plugs on the fuel pipes. 2. Install the new O-rings. 3. Install the fuel return pipe to
the fuel pressure regulator. Tighten the retainer screw to the regulator to 6 Nm (53 lbs in). 4. Install
the fuel feed pipe to the fuel rail using a back-up wrench. Tighten the fuel fitting to 30 Nm (22 lbs
ft). 5. Install the quick-connect fittings. 6. Install the fuel line retainer. 7. Install the fuel line clamp
screws. Tighten Fuel line clamp screws to 10 Nm (89 lbs in). 8. Install the negative battery cable. 9.
Install the fuel filler cap.
10. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
10.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 10.2. Turn the ignition switch to
the OFF position for ten seconds. 10.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 10.4. Check for
fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Supply Line: > NHTSA00V053000 > Feb > 00 > Recall
00V053000: CNG Fuel and/or Brake System Leak
Fuel Supply Line: Recalls Recall 00V053000: CNG Fuel and/or Brake System Leak
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles equipped with Bi-Fuel Compressed Natural Gas (CNG)
vehicles. The CNG fuel line and the CNG high pressure regulator coolant lines can contact other
fuel (gasoline) and brake lines on the vehicle. Abrasion from contact can cause a leak in the brake
pipe, fuel pipe, or both. Abrasion from contact can cause a leak in the brake pipe, fuel pipe, or both.
A brake fluid leak could disable a portion of the brake system, causing longer stopping distances.
Gasoline leaking from a fuel pipe, in the presence of an ignition source, could cause a vehicle fire.
Dealers will inspect and reposition the CNG fuel and coolant pipes and reposition/repair any
damaged fuel or brake pipes as necessary.
Owner notification began March 17, 2000.
Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not
receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020. Also
contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at
1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > NHTSA00V053000 > Feb
> 00 > Recall 00V053000: CNG Fuel and/or Brake System Leak
Fuel Supply Line: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 00V053000: CNG Fuel and/or Brake
System Leak
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles equipped with Bi-Fuel Compressed Natural Gas (CNG)
vehicles. The CNG fuel line and the CNG high pressure regulator coolant lines can contact other
fuel (gasoline) and brake lines on the vehicle. Abrasion from contact can cause a leak in the brake
pipe, fuel pipe, or both. Abrasion from contact can cause a leak in the brake pipe, fuel pipe, or both.
A brake fluid leak could disable a portion of the brake system, causing longer stopping distances.
Gasoline leaking from a fuel pipe, in the presence of an ignition source, could cause a vehicle fire.
Dealers will inspect and reposition the CNG fuel and coolant pipes and reposition/repair any
damaged fuel or brake pipes as necessary.
Owner notification began March 17, 2000.
Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not
receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020. Also
contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at
1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5267
Fuel Supply Line: Specifications Fuel Feed Line
Fuel Feed Line
Fitting 22 ft.lb
Fuel Line Clamp Screw 89 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Chassis Hose/Pipes
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Chassis Hose/Pipes
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the quick-connect fittings at engine compartment fuel
feed and return connecting lines. 3. Plug fuel lines. 4. Raise vehicle. 5. Remove the quick-connect
fittings at fuel sender and nylon fuel feed and return connecting lines. 6. Plug the fuel pipes to
prevent leakage. 7. Remove the fuel pipe mounting hardware from pipes.
NOTICE: If it is necessary to remove rust or burrs from a fuel pipe, use emery cloth in a radial
motion with the fuel pipe end in order to prevent damage to the O-ring sealing surface.
8. Remove the fuel pipes to be serviced. 9. In the repairable areas, cut a piece of fuel hose 100
mm (4 in) longer than portion of the line removed. If more than a 152 mm (6 in) length of pipe
is removed, use a combination of steel pipe and hose so that hose lengths will not be more than
254 mm (10 in), including hose overlap on fuel line.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
1. Position the fuel pipe in the body clips. 2. Install the fuel pipe and hose hardware. 3. Remove the
caps on the fuel pipes. 4. Install the quick-connect fittings on the fuel pipes. Refer to Quick Connect
Fitting(s) Service (Metal Collar). 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Remove the caps covering the fuel lines if
required. 7. Install the engine compartment fuel line quick-connect fittings. 8. Install the fuel filler
cap. 9. Install the negative battery cable.
10. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
10.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 10.2. Turn the ignition switch to
the OFF position for ten seconds. 10.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 10.4. Check for
fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Chassis Hose/Pipes > Page 5270
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Engine Hose/Pipes
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the quick-connect fittings at engine compartment
fuel feed and return connecting lines. 3. Plug the fuel lines. 4. Remove the engine fuel feed and
return pipe retainer and screws. 5. Remove the fuel return pipe from the fuel pressure regulator
using a back-up wrench. 6. Remove the fuel pipe from fuel rail.
NOTICE: If it is necessary to remove rust or burrs from a fuel pipe, use emery cloth in a radial
motion with the fuel pipe end in order to prevent damage to the O-ring sealing surface.
7. Discard O-rings.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Remove the plugs on the fuel pipes. 2. Install the new O-rings. 3. Install the fuel return pipe to
the fuel pressure regulator. Tighten the retainer screw to the regulator to 6 Nm (53 lbs in). 4. Install
the fuel feed pipe to the fuel rail using a back-up wrench. Tighten the fuel fitting to 30 Nm (22 lbs
ft). 5. Install the quick-connect fittings. 6. Install the fuel line retainer. 7. Install the fuel line clamp
screws. Tighten Fuel line clamp screws to 10 Nm (89 lbs in). 8. Install the negative battery cable. 9.
Install the fuel filler cap.
10. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
10.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 10.2. Turn the ignition switch to
the OFF position for ten seconds. 10.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 10.4. Check for
fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5276
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5277
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5278
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5279
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5280
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5281
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Locations > Fuel Tank HARN CONN to Fuel Pressure SEN/Fuel Tank MOD
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Locations > Fuel Tank HARN CONN to Fuel Pressure SEN/Fuel Tank MOD > Page 5286
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5287
Fuel Tank Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5288
Fuel Tank Unit: Description and Operation
Modular Fuel Sender
The modular fuel sender assembly mounts in the top of the fuel tank and is spring loaded to the
bottom. It is designed to:
^ Provide optimum fuel level in the internal fuel reservoir during all fuel tank levels and driving
conditions.
^ Improve the measuring accuracy of fuel tank level.
^ Filters coarse contaminates from the fuel.
^ House fuel pump and helps prevent fuel pump noise.
^ Include a check valve to inhibit back flow of fuel from fuel system.
The fuel sender consists of the following serviceable components:
^ Fuel strainer.
^ Fuel level sensor.
^ Fuel tank pressure sensor.
^ Fuel sender O-ring.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5289
Fuel Tank Unit: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak,
always replace the fuel sender gasket when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. 3. Drain the fuel tank. 4.
Remove the fuel tank (4).
IMPORTANT:
^ The modular fuel sender assembly may spring up from its position.
^ When removing the modular fuel sender assembly from the fuel tank, be aware that the reservoir
bucket is full of fuel. It must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float. Discard
fuel sender O-ring and replace with a new one.
^ Carefully discard the reservoir fuel into an approved container.
5. While holding the modular fuel sender assembly (3) down, remove the snap ring (1) from
designated slots located on the retainer (2). 6. Remove the fuel sender assembly from the fuel
tank.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install a new O-ring on modular fuel sender (3) to tank. 2. Align tab on front of sender (2) with
slot on front of retainer snap ring. 3. Slowly apply pressure to top of spring loaded sender until
sender aligns flush with retainer on tank.
IMPORTANT: Be sure that the snap ring is fully seated within the tab slots.
4. Insert snap ring (1) into designated slots. 5. Install the fuel tank. 6. Lower vehicle. 7. Refill tank.
8. Connect the negative battery cable. 9. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
9.1. Turn the ignition to the ON position for two seconds 9.2. Turn the ignition to the OFF position
for ten seconds. 9.3. Turn the ignition to the ON position 9.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Specifications
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Specifications
Attaching Screws 3 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5293
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5294
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5297
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
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Wiring Diagram
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Description and Operation
Engine idle speed is controlled by the PCM through the IAC valve (1) mounted on the throttle body.
The PCM sends voltage pulses to the IAC valve motor windings causing the IAC valve pintle (3) to
move IN (toward the seat) or OUT (away from the seat) a given distance (a step or count) for each
pulse. The commanded location (steps away from the seated position) can be observed as a
number of counts displayed on a scan tool. The pintle movement controls the airflow around the
throttle valve (2), which in turn, controls engine idle speed: Pintle Extended=Decrease RPM=Lower
Counts. Pintle Retracted=Increase RPM=Higher Counts.
The controlled or desired idle speed for all engine operating conditions is programmed into the
EEPROM of the PCM. The programmed engine speeds are based on coolant temperature,
park/neutral switch status, vehicle speed, battery voltage, and A/C refrigerant pressure (if
equipped).
The PCM learns the proper IAC valve positions to achieve warm, stabilized idle speeds (RPM),
desired for the various conditions (PIN or Drive, A/C ON or OFF, if equipped). This information is
stored in PCM Keep Alive memories (information is retained after ignition is OFF). All other IAC
valve positioning is calculated based on these memory values. As a result, engine variations due to
wear, and variations in minimum throttle valve position (within limits) do not affect engine idle
speeds. This system provides correct idle control under all conditions. This also means that
disconnecting power to the PCM can result in incorrect idle control or the necessity to partially
depress the accelerator when starting, until the PCM relearns idle control.
^ Engine idle speed is a function of total airflow into the engine based on IAC valve pintle position
plus throttle valve opening plus calibrated vacuum loss through accessories.
^ The minimum throttle valve position is set at the factory with a stop screw. This setting allows
enough air flow by the closed throttle valve to cause the IAC valve pintle to be positioned a
calibrated number of steps (counts) from the seat during controlled idle operation. The minimum
throttle valve position for this engine is not the same as the minimum idle speed associated with
other fuel injected engines. The throttle stop screw is tilled at the factory following an adjustment.
IMPORTANT: Do Not try to remove the filler and readjust the stop screw. Misadjustment may set a
DTC P0506 or a DTC P0507.
^ The PCM normally resets the IAC valve pintle position once during each ignition cycle when
vehicle speed increases above 20 mph on moderate acceleration. During the reset, the PCM
commands the IAC valve pintle to retract completely, then move IN to the seated position (to
establish the zero count position), and then back out to the desired position. The IAC is relearned
only once per ignition cycle.
^ The IAC valve also can be reset without driving the vehicle by using this service procedure:
1. Turn ignition switch to the ON position (engine OFF). 2. Turn ignition OFF for ten seconds. 3.
Start engine and check for proper idle operation.
^ Whenever the IAC valve is disconnected and reconnected while the engine is running, the
resulting IAC valve counts may not correspond with the actual IAC valve pintle position. When
servicing the IAC valve, it should only be disconnected or connected after the ignition has been
OFF for at least 10 seconds. This allows time for the PCM to move the IAC valve to the 150 count
position where it is parked while the ignition is OFF. Whenever this procedure is not followed, the
PCM will lose track of IAC valve position resulting in starting or idle control problems until the IAC
valve is reset and pintle position is relearned.
^ IAC system problems may cause improper idle speeds, resulting in a DTC P0506 or a DTC
P0507. The DTC P0506 or the DTC P0507 tables should be used to diagnose these problems.
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Testing and Inspection
Refer to DTC P0506 or P0507 for diagnosis of the IAC.
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the IAC valve electrical connector. 2. Remove the IAC valve attaching screws (1).
NOTICE: If the IAC valve has been in service: DO NOT push or pull on the IAC valve pintle. The
force required to move the pintle may damage the threads on the worm drive. Also, DO NOT soak
the IAC valve in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
3. Remove the IAC valve assembly (2).
^ Clean IAC valve O-ring sealing surface, pintle valve seat, and air passage.
^ The IAC valve may be cleaned, use a shop towel or parts cleaning brush to remove heavy
deposits.
^ Shiny spots on the pintle or seat are normal, and do not indicate misalignment or a bent pintle
shaft.
^ Whenever air passage have heavy deposits, remove throttle body for complete cleaning.
^ Inspect IAC valve O-ring for cuts, cracks, or distortion. Replace if damaged.
^ Whenever installing a new IAC valve, be sure to replace it with an identical part. IAC valve pintle
shape and diameter are designed for the specific application.
Measurement Procedure
This procedure is only for installing a new IAC Valve.
IMPORTANT: If installing a new IAC valve, replace the IAC valve with an identical part. The IAC
valve pintle shape and diameter are designed for the specific application.
Measure the distance between tip of IAC valve pintle and mounting flange.
If greater than 28 mm, use finger pressure to slowly retract the pintle. The force required to retract
the pintle of a new valve will not cause damage to the valve.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Lubricate IAC valve O-ring (3) with clean engine oil.
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2. Install the IAC valve assembly (2). 3. Install the IAC valve attaching screws (1). Tighten the IAC
valve attaching screws to 3.0 Nm (27 lb in). 4. Install the electrical connector. 5. To reset the IAC
valve pintle position:
5.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (engine OFF). 5.2. Turn the ignition switch OFF for
ten seconds. 5.3. Start the engine and check for proper idle operation.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Intake Air Duct > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Intake Air Duct: Service and Repair
Fresh Air Intake
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet splash shield. 2. Remove the LH headlamp assembly retaining
screws. 3. Remove the LH headlamp assembly. 4. Disconnect the LH headlamp electrical
connector(s). 5. Remove the front air cleaner intake duct upper push in retainer. 6. Remove the
resonator front push in retainer. 7. Raise the vehicle. 8. Remove the LF tire and wheel. 9. Remove
the LF wheel house panel.
10. Remove the front air cleaner intake duct lower retaining screw. 11. Remove the front air cleaner
intake duct through headlamp assembly opening. 12. Remove the resonator rear push in retainer
and upper attaching bolt. 13. Remove the resonator assembly through wheel house opening.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the resonator assembly through the wheel house opening. 2. Install the resonator rear
push in retainer and the upper attaching bolt. Tighten the Resonator upper attaching bolt to 7 Nm
(61 lb in). 3. Install the front air cleaner intake duct through the headlamp assembly opening. 4.
Install the front air cleaner intake duct lower retaining screw. 5. Install the LF wheel house panel. 6.
Install the LF tire and wheel. 7. Lower the vehicle. 8. Install the resonator front push in retainer. 9.
Install the front air cleaner intake duct upper push in retainer.
10. Install the LH headlamp electrical connector(s). 11. Install the LH headlamp assembly retaining
screws. Tighten the headlamp assembly retaining screws to 7 Nm (61 lb in). 12. Install the air
cleaner outlet splash shield.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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> Page 5369
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5370
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5371
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5372
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5373
Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Fuel Pump Relay
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the relay center cover. 2. Remove the fuel pump relay.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump relay. 2. Install the relay center cover.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Resonator, Intake Air >
Component Information > Specifications
Resonator: Specifications Intake Air Resonator
Intake Air Resonator
Resonator Bolt 61 in.lb
Outlet Clamp 44 in.lb
Outlet Mounting Screw 53 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Component Information > Specifications > Page 5377
Resonator: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator mounting screw (4). 2. Disconnect the air cleaner outlet
resonator clamp at the throttle body (2). 3. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct from air cleaner
outlet resonator and air cleaner assembly. 4. Disconnect the crankcase vent hose clamp (3) and
the crankcase vent hose from the top of the engine. 5. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the crankcase vent hose and crankcase vent hose clamp (3) to the top of the engine.
IMPORTANT: Be sure that the air cleaner outlet resonator seals to the throttle body.
2. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator (1) to the throttle body (2). 3. Install the air cleaner outlet
resonator mounting screw (4).
^ Tighten the air cleaner outlet resonator mounting screw to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
^ Tighten the air cleaner outlet resonator clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
4. Install the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner outlet resonator and the air cleaner assembly.
Tighten the air cleaner outlet duct clamps to 5 Nm
(44 lb in).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5383
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Instructions > Page 5384
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5385
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5386
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5387
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5388
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5389
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5390
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Instructions > Page 5391
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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Instructions > Page 5394
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Instructions > Page 5395
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5410
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5411
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5412
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5413
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 5417
Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 5418
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the system fuel pressure. 3. Drain fuel tank. 4.
Remove the fuel tank. 5. Remove the electrical connector from the fuel tank pressure sensor. 6.
Remove the fuel tank pressure sensor (1) from modular fuel sender.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new fuel tank pressure sensor (1) to modular fuel sender. 2. Install the electrical
connector to fuel tank pressure sensor. 3. Install the fuel tank. 4. Refill tank. 5. Install the negative
battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
TP Screws 3 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5422
Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5423
Component Location Views
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5426
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5427
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5428
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5429
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5430
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5431
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5432
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5433
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5434
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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Instructions > Page 5437
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5438
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5453
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5454
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5455
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5456
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5457
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5458
Wiring Diagram
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5459
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
TP Sensor Service
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor (2) is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the
throttle body. The TP sensor electrical circuit consists of a 5 volt supply line and a ground line, both
provided by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and a signal line to the PCM. By monitoring the
voltage on this signal line, the PCM can calculate throttle position angle in a percentage. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor also
changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low (approximately 0.6 volt).
As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage
should be near 5 volts.
The PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or
loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle,
because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A high or low voltage problem in the TP sensor
circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123. The PCM also has the capability of setting a
DTC P0121 if the sensor is reading out of range. Once a diagnostic trouble code is set, the PCM
will use a default value for the TP sensor, and some vehicle performance will return.
See TP Sensor Replacement for replacement of the TP sensor. The TP sensor is not adjustable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5460
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the PCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Tables for testing information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5461
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
TP Sensor Service
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator. 2. Remove the throttle body. 3. Remove the TP sensor
attaching screws (1). 4. Remove the TP sensor (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed (idle) position, install the throttle position sensor (2)
on the throttle body assembly.
IMPORTANT: Install the new TP sensor attaching screws when replacing the TP sensor.
2. Install the two TP sensor screws (1). Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (27 lb in). 3. Install the throttle
body. 4. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Specifications
Throttle Body: Specifications
Attaching Bolts 10 Nm
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Information > Specifications > Page 5465
Component Location Views
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Information > Specifications > Page 5466
Throttle Body: Service and Repair
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the air cleaner resonator from the throttle body.
3. Remove the electrical connectors from the IAC valve and the TP sensors. 4. Remove the
vacuum hoses at the throttle body. 5. Remove the throttle, cruise, and transmission control cables.
6. Remove the accelerator cable bracket. 7. Remove the throttle body attaching bolts (2). 8.
Loosen the throttle body (1) from the intake manifold.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: The EVAP canister may have released carbon particles which caused this part to fail.
Check the EVAP canister for loose carbon before returning the vehicle to service.
1. Install the throttle body (1). 2. Install the accelerator cable bracket. 3. Install the throttle body
attaching bolts (2). Tighten the throttle body attaching bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in). 4. Install the
throttle, cruise, and transmission control cables to the throttle body. 5. Install the vacuum hoses to
the throttle body. 6. Install the electrical connectors to the IAC valve and TP sensors. 7. Install the
air cleaner resonator to the throttle body.
IMPORTANT: With the engine OFF, check to see that the accelerator pedal is free, by depressing
the pedal to the floor and releasing.
8. Install the negative battery cable. 9. Reset IAC valve pintle position:
9.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 9.2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for
ten seconds. 9.3. Start the engine and check for proper idle operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Specifications Accelerator Control Cable
Accelerator Control Cable
Cable Retaining Clip 10 Nm
Cable Bracket 25 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Accelerator Cable
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Service and Repair Accelerator Cable
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove left sound insulator. 2. Remove release cable retainer from pedal assembly (2). 3.
Depress the cable tangs (1) and push forward toward engine compartment.
4. Remove the cable retaining clip (2). 5. Remove the cable from the push-clip (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Accelerator Cable > Page 5472
Description
6. Remove the cruise control cable if equipped. 7. Depress the tangs (1) on the cable and push
through the cable bracket (2). 8. Remove the cable (3) from the cam.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Route cable through cable bracket (2). 2. Press cable upward through bracket. 3. Ensure tangs
(1) expand and are properly seated. 4. Install the cruise control cable. 5. Install the cable in the
push-in clip (1). 6. Install the cable retaining clip (2). Tighten cable retaining clip to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
7. Route the cable (3) through cowl. 8. Slip accelerator cable (2) through slot in rod and then install
retainer in rod, being sure it is seated.
IMPORTANT: Flexible components (hoses, wires, conduits, etc.) must not be routed within 50 mm
(2.0 in) of moving parts of accelerator linkage outboard of support unless routing is positively
controlled.
9. Check for correct opening and closing positions by operating accelerator pedal. Make sure that
the throttle valve reaches wide-open throttle
position. If it does not, inspect for damaged or bent brackets, levers, or other components; or, for
poor carpet fit under the accelerator pedal.
10. Install the left sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Accelerator Cable > Page 5473
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Service and Repair Accelerator Cable Bracket
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the accelerator, cruise and transmission cables, (If so equipped). 2. Remove the
accelerator cable bracket attaching bolts (1) and the accelerator cable bracket (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the accelerator cable bracket (2) with attaching bolts (1).
NOTICE: Align the accelerator bracket with the accelerator cam in order to prevent cable wear
which could cause the cable to break. Tighten bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).
2. Install the accelerator cable, cruise and transmission cables, (If so equipped).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
TP Screws 3 Nm
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 5477
Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Information > Specifications > Page 5478
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5481
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5483
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5484
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5485
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5486
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5487
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5488
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5489
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5490
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5505
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5507
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5509
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5510
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5511
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5512
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5513
Wiring Diagram
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5514
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
TP Sensor Service
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor (2) is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the
throttle body. The TP sensor electrical circuit consists of a 5 volt supply line and a ground line, both
provided by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and a signal line to the PCM. By monitoring the
voltage on this signal line, the PCM can calculate throttle position angle in a percentage. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor also
changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low (approximately 0.6 volt).
As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage
should be near 5 volts.
The PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or
loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle,
because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A high or low voltage problem in the TP sensor
circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123. The PCM also has the capability of setting a
DTC P0121 if the sensor is reading out of range. Once a diagnostic trouble code is set, the PCM
will use a default value for the TP sensor, and some vehicle performance will return.
See TP Sensor Replacement for replacement of the TP sensor. The TP sensor is not adjustable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the PCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Tables for testing information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
TP Sensor Service
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator. 2. Remove the throttle body. 3. Remove the TP sensor
attaching screws (1). 4. Remove the TP sensor (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed (idle) position, install the throttle position sensor (2)
on the throttle body assembly.
IMPORTANT: Install the new TP sensor attaching screws when replacing the TP sensor.
2. Install the two TP sensor screws (1). Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (27 lb in). 3. Install the throttle
body. 4. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Firing Order > Component Information >
Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order: Specifications Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order .........................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 1-3-4-2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > Number One Cylinder >
Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Number One Cylinder: Locations Number 1 Cylinder Location
NUMBER ONE CYLINDER LOCATION
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators
> System Information > Locations
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 88 in.lb
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Information > Specifications > Page 5533
Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Information > Specifications > Page 5534
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5540
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5541
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5542
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5543
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5545
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5546
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5547
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (LN2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT: Preform a Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure any time you
make a change to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank sensor to
crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect a misfire at all speeds and loads accurately.
Resulting in possibly setting a false misfire DTC. Removing a part for inspection and then
reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could set if you do not
perform this procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used to correlate crankshaft to camshaft position so that
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the
injector. The CMP sensor is also used to determine which cylinder is misfiring when misfire is
present. If the PCM receives an intermittent signal from the CMP, then the CMP Resync Counter
will increment. When the PCM cannot use the information from the CMP sensor, a DTC is set and
the PCM will fuel the engine using the Alternating Synchronous Double Fire (ASDF) method. This
sensor has no effect on the EI system.
A malfunction in the CMP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0341 or P0342
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the R.H. tire assembly. 3. Remove
the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector. 4. Remove the CMP sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. 2. Install the CMP sensor electrical connector. 3.
Install the R.H. tire assembly. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Bolt 88 in.lb
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5604
Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5605
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5606
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5607
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5608
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5609
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5610
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5611
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5612
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5613
Wiring Diagram
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 5614
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor provides a signal to the electronic Ignition Control Module
(ICM), which the PCM uses as a reference to calculate RPM and crankshaft position. A fault in the
CKP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0335.
This system uses a magnetic CKP sensor, mounted remotely from the ICM, which protrudes into
the block within approximately 0.050 of the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel cast
into the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it, six of which are equally spaced (60 degrees
apart). A seventh slot, is spaced 10 degrees from one of the other slots and serves to generate a
sync-pulse. As the reluctor rotates as part of the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of
the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
Based on the CKP sensor pulses, the ICM sends 7X reference signals to the PCM which is used to
indicate crankshaft position and engine speed. The ICM continues to send these reference pulse to
the PCM at a rate of seven per 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. This signal is called the 7X
reference because it occurs 7 times per crankshaft revolution. The 7X reference signal is
necessary for the PCM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors.
By comparing the time between pulses, the PCM can recognize the pulse representing the seventh
slot (sync pulse) which starts the calculation of ignition coil sequencing. The second crank pulse
following the sync pulse signals the PCM to fire the #2-3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse
signals the PCM to fire the #1-4 ignition coil.
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crankshaft
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set. Removing a part for inspection and
then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could be set if this
procedure is not performed. Refer to the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure for the Crankshaft
Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
See Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis for further information.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
harness connector at the module. 3. Remove the CKP sensor mounting bolt (2). 4. Remove the
CKP sensor from the engine (1). 5. Inspect the CKP sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage.
Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (1) into the block. 2. Install the CKP sensor
mounting bolt (2). Tighten the CKP sensor mounting bolts to 8 Nm (71 lb in). 3. Install the CKP
sensor harness connector. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement > Page 5617
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn
Procedure
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set.
Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A
false DTC P0300 could be set if this procedure is not performed.
The learn procedure is required after the following service procedures have been performed,
regardless of whether or not DTC P1336 is set:
^ PCM replacement.
^ Engine replacement.
^ Crankshaft replacement.
^ Crankshaft position sensor replacement.
^ Any engine repair(s) which disturbs the crankshaft/harmonic balancer to the crankshaft position
sensor relationship.
CAUTION: When performing the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure always
set the vehicle parking brake and block the drive wheels in order to prevent Personal injury.
Release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. Once the learn procedure is
completed, engine control will be returned to the operator and the engine will respond to throttle
position.
IMPORTANT: The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. The scan tool connection at
the DLC is clean and tight before starting the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning
Procedure.
1. Close the hood. 2. Block the drive wheels and set the vehicle parking brake. 3. Put the vehicle in
Park or Neutral. 4. Turn all the accessories OFF. 5. Install a scan tool. 6. Start and run the engine
until it is at normal operating temperature 85°C (185°F). 7. With the engine still running, enable the
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure with the scan tool. 8. Press and hold the
brake pedal firmly and raise the engine speed to the specified value, RELEASING the throttle as
soon as the engine cuts out. 9. Verify with the scan tool that the crankshaft variation has been
learned.
Perform this procedure up to 10 times. If the PCM will not learn the variation, a DTC P1336 should
be set. Refer to DTC P1336 CKP System Variation Not Learned for diagnosis. See: Computers
and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Cable > Component Information >
Locations
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Description and Operation
Ignition Coil: Description and Operation
Two separate coils are mounted inside the housing. Each coil provides the spark for two plugs
simultaneously (waste spark distribution). Each coil can also be replaced separately.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Specifications
Ignition Control Module: Specifications
Cover Bolts 16 ft.lb
Screws 35 in.lb
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Ignition Control Module: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1
Ignition Control Module (C1) (LN2)
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Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 5632
Ignition Control Module (C2) (LN2)
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Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
This system uses the same circuits between the ICM and the PCM that distributor type systems
use. Following is a brief description for each of the IC circuits.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Activity (7X reference) - The CKP sensor generates a signal to
the ICM which results in a reference pulse (square wave signal) being sent to the PCM. The PCM
uses this signal to calculate crankshaft position, engine speed and injector pulse width. The engine
will not start or run if this circuit is open or grounded.
Reference Low - This wire is grounded through the ICM and insures that the ground circuit has no
voltage drop between the ICM and the PCM which could affect performance. The PCM compares
voltage pulses on the 7X or reference input to those on this circuit, ignoring any pulses that appear
on both. A pulse that appears on the reference low circuit alone is assumed to be caused by Radio
Frequency Interference (RFI).
Ignition Control (IC) 1 & 2 - The PCM sends the ignition control pulse to the ICM on these circuits.
These signals are similar to the 7X reference pulse square wave except that the PCM uses sensor
inputs to determine the pulse timing to control spark advance. When the PCM receives the 7X
signal, it will determine which pair of cylinders will be fired (1 & 4 or 2 & 3). It then tells the ICM
which cylinder to fire through the ignition control circuits.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
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Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the ignition coils from the module (1). 4. Remove the module from the assembly plate.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the module to the assembly plate 2. Install the ignition coils. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 12-16 ft.lb
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Specifications > Page 5638
Knock Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Specifications > Page 5639
Component Location Views
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Specifications > Page 5640
Component Location Views
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Specifications > Page 5641
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5644
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5645
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5646
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5647
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5648
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5649
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Wiring Diagram
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor
Purpose
Varying octane levels in the gasoline can cause a detonation in performance engines. Detonation
is sometimes called a spark knock. A spark knock causes the pistons and the rings to vibrate and
rattle, sometimes producing a knocking sound.
In order to control a spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) is used. This system is designed to retard
the spark timing up to 15 degrees in order to reduce a spark knock in the engine. This allows the
engine to use a maximum spark advance in order to improve driveability and fuel economy.
The PCM uses information from the MAP and coolant sensor in addition to the RPM in order to
calculate the spark advance as follows:
^ Low MAP output voltage equals more spark advance.
^ Cold engine equals more spark advance.
^ High MAP output voltage equals less spark advance.
^ Hot engine equals less spark advance. A low MAP output or high resistance in the Engine
Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit could cause detonation. A high MAP output or low
resistance in the coolant sensor circuit could cause poor performance.
Operation
The KS system has two major components:
^ The KS module.
^ The Knock Sensor (KS).
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
The KS detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is mounted in the
engine block near the cylinders. The sensor produces an AC output voltage which increases with
the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM then adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce the spark knock.
A malfunction in the KS circuit or module will set a DTC P0325.
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Knock Sensor Wiring Harness Connector
Knock Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the Knock Sensor wiring harness connector from the knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock
sensor from the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. After cleaning the threads thoroughly, install the knock sensor into the engine block. Tighten the
knock sensor to 16-22 Nm (12-16 lb ft). 2. Install the KS wiring harness connector to the knock
sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Specifications
Ignition Control Module: Specifications
Cover Bolts 16 ft.lb
Screws 35 in.lb
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Ignition Control Module: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Ignition Control Module (C1) (LN2)
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Ignition Control Module (C2) (LN2)
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Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
This system uses the same circuits between the ICM and the PCM that distributor type systems
use. Following is a brief description for each of the IC circuits.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Activity (7X reference) - The CKP sensor generates a signal to
the ICM which results in a reference pulse (square wave signal) being sent to the PCM. The PCM
uses this signal to calculate crankshaft position, engine speed and injector pulse width. The engine
will not start or run if this circuit is open or grounded.
Reference Low - This wire is grounded through the ICM and insures that the ground circuit has no
voltage drop between the ICM and the PCM which could affect performance. The PCM compares
voltage pulses on the 7X or reference input to those on this circuit, ignoring any pulses that appear
on both. A pulse that appears on the reference low circuit alone is assumed to be caused by Radio
Frequency Interference (RFI).
Ignition Control (IC) 1 & 2 - The PCM sends the ignition control pulse to the ICM on these circuits.
These signals are similar to the 7X reference pulse square wave except that the PCM uses sensor
inputs to determine the pulse timing to control spark advance. When the PCM receives the 7X
signal, it will determine which pair of cylinders will be fired (1 & 4 or 2 & 3). It then tells the ICM
which cylinder to fire through the ignition control circuits.
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Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the ignition coils from the module (1). 4. Remove the module from the assembly plate.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the module to the assembly plate 2. Install the ignition coils. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4.
Connect the negative battery cable.
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 88 in.lb
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (LN2)
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Wiring Diagram
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT: Preform a Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure any time you
make a change to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank sensor to
crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect a misfire at all speeds and loads accurately.
Resulting in possibly setting a false misfire DTC. Removing a part for inspection and then
reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could set if you do not
perform this procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used to correlate crankshaft to camshaft position so that
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the
injector. The CMP sensor is also used to determine which cylinder is misfiring when misfire is
present. If the PCM receives an intermittent signal from the CMP, then the CMP Resync Counter
will increment. When the PCM cannot use the information from the CMP sensor, a DTC is set and
the PCM will fuel the engine using the Alternating Synchronous Double Fire (ASDF) method. This
sensor has no effect on the EI system.
A malfunction in the CMP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0341 or P0342
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the R.H. tire assembly. 3. Remove
the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector. 4. Remove the CMP sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. 2. Install the CMP sensor electrical connector. 3.
Install the R.H. tire assembly. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Sensor Bolt 88 in.lb
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Wiring Diagram
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor provides a signal to the electronic Ignition Control Module
(ICM), which the PCM uses as a reference to calculate RPM and crankshaft position. A fault in the
CKP sensor circuits will cause a DTC P0335.
This system uses a magnetic CKP sensor, mounted remotely from the ICM, which protrudes into
the block within approximately 0.050 of the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel cast
into the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it, six of which are equally spaced (60 degrees
apart). A seventh slot, is spaced 10 degrees from one of the other slots and serves to generate a
sync-pulse. As the reluctor rotates as part of the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of
the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
Based on the CKP sensor pulses, the ICM sends 7X reference signals to the PCM which is used to
indicate crankshaft position and engine speed. The ICM continues to send these reference pulse to
the PCM at a rate of seven per 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. This signal is called the 7X
reference because it occurs 7 times per crankshaft revolution. The 7X reference signal is
necessary for the PCM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors.
By comparing the time between pulses, the PCM can recognize the pulse representing the seventh
slot (sync pulse) which starts the calculation of ignition coil sequencing. The second crank pulse
following the sync pulse signals the PCM to fire the #2-3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse
signals the PCM to fire the #1-4 ignition coil.
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crankshaft
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set. Removing a part for inspection and
then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A false DTC P0300 could be set if this
procedure is not performed. Refer to the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure for the Crankshaft
Position System Variation Learning Procedure.
See Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis for further information.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Description
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
harness connector at the module. 3. Remove the CKP sensor mounting bolt (2). 4. Remove the
CKP sensor from the engine (1). 5. Inspect the CKP sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage.
Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (1) into the block. 2. Install the CKP sensor
mounting bolt (2). Tighten the CKP sensor mounting bolts to 8 Nm (71 lb in). 3. Install the CKP
sensor harness connector. 4. Lower the vehicle.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn
Procedure
IMPORTANT: A Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure must be performed any
time a change is made to the crankshaft sensor to crankshaft relationship. Changing the crank
sensor to crankshaft relationship will not allow the PCM to detect misfire at all speeds and loads
accurately. Resulting in a possible false misfire DTC being set.
Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance. A
false DTC P0300 could be set if this procedure is not performed.
The learn procedure is required after the following service procedures have been performed,
regardless of whether or not DTC P1336 is set:
^ PCM replacement.
^ Engine replacement.
^ Crankshaft replacement.
^ Crankshaft position sensor replacement.
^ Any engine repair(s) which disturbs the crankshaft/harmonic balancer to the crankshaft position
sensor relationship.
CAUTION: When performing the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure always
set the vehicle parking brake and block the drive wheels in order to prevent Personal injury.
Release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. Once the learn procedure is
completed, engine control will be returned to the operator and the engine will respond to throttle
position.
IMPORTANT: The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. The scan tool connection at
the DLC is clean and tight before starting the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning
Procedure.
1. Close the hood. 2. Block the drive wheels and set the vehicle parking brake. 3. Put the vehicle in
Park or Neutral. 4. Turn all the accessories OFF. 5. Install a scan tool. 6. Start and run the engine
until it is at normal operating temperature 85°C (185°F). 7. With the engine still running, enable the
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure with the scan tool. 8. Press and hold the
brake pedal firmly and raise the engine speed to the specified value, RELEASING the throttle as
soon as the engine cuts out. 9. Verify with the scan tool that the crankshaft variation has been
learned.
Perform this procedure up to 10 times. If the PCM will not learn the variation, a DTC P1336 should
be set. Refer to DTC P1336 CKP System Variation Not Learned for diagnosis. See: Computers
and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition Lock
Cylinder - Revised Replacement Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised
Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 02 - Steering
Bulletin No.: 01-02-35-010
Date: November, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Lock Cylinder Replacement
Models: 1995-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure in the Steering
Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The following information was omitted from the Service Manual:
If you replace the ignition lock cylinder, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the system
enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle. During
the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes. The instrument
cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle. Ensure that
the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the ignition switch
before the indicator stops flashing, ensure that you repeat the long tamper cycle from the
beginning.
Important:
Due to component variability, the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system must have the learn
procedure performed regardless, even if the vehicle starts on the first ignition cycle after a VTD
repair.
All codes in the theft deterrent module must be cleared for a relearn.
DISCLAIMER
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Sensor 12-16 ft.lb
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5787
Knock Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5790
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5823
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5824
Wiring Diagram
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5825
Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor
Purpose
Varying octane levels in the gasoline can cause a detonation in performance engines. Detonation
is sometimes called a spark knock. A spark knock causes the pistons and the rings to vibrate and
rattle, sometimes producing a knocking sound.
In order to control a spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) is used. This system is designed to retard
the spark timing up to 15 degrees in order to reduce a spark knock in the engine. This allows the
engine to use a maximum spark advance in order to improve driveability and fuel economy.
The PCM uses information from the MAP and coolant sensor in addition to the RPM in order to
calculate the spark advance as follows:
^ Low MAP output voltage equals more spark advance.
^ Cold engine equals more spark advance.
^ High MAP output voltage equals less spark advance.
^ Hot engine equals less spark advance. A low MAP output or high resistance in the Engine
Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit could cause detonation. A high MAP output or low
resistance in the coolant sensor circuit could cause poor performance.
Operation
The KS system has two major components:
^ The KS module.
^ The Knock Sensor (KS).
The KS module is an integral part of the PCM. The KS module is not serviceable.
The KS detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is mounted in the
engine block near the cylinders. The sensor produces an AC output voltage which increases with
the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM then adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce the spark knock.
A malfunction in the KS circuit or module will set a DTC P0325.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5826
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Knock Sensor Wiring Harness Connector
Knock Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. 3.
Remove the Knock Sensor wiring harness connector from the knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock
sensor from the engine block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. After cleaning the threads thoroughly, install the knock sensor into the engine block. Tighten the
knock sensor to 16-22 Nm (12-16 lb ft). 2. Install the KS wiring harness connector to the knock
sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug Gap ...................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 1.01 mm (.040 in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Spark Plug Gap > Page 5831
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Torque
Spark Plug Torque ...............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5832
Spark Plug: Application and ID
AC Type ...............................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 41-928
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5833
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Worn or dirty plugs may give satisfactory operation at idling speed, but under operating conditions
they frequently fail. Faulty plugs are indicated in a number of ways: poor fuel economy, power loss,
loss of speed, hard starting and general poor engine performance.
Spark plugs may also fail due to carbon fouling, excessive gap, or a broken insulator.
Fouled plugs Fouled plugs are identified by black carbon deposits. The black deposits are usually
the result of slow-speed driving and short runs where sufficient engine operating temperature is
seldom reached. Worn pistons, rings, faulty ignition, over-rich air/fuel mixture and spark plugs
which are too cold will also result in carbon deposits.
Excessive gap Excessive gap wear, on plugs of low mileage, usually indicates the engine is
operating at high speeds or loads that are consistently greater than normal or that a plug which is
too hot is being used. Electrode wear may also be the result of plug overheating, caused by
combustion gases leaking past the threads, due to insufficient spark plug torque or too much spark
plug torque. An excessively lean air/fuel mixture will also result in excessive electrode wear.
Broken insulator Broken insulators are usually the result of improper installation or carelessness
when regapping the plug. Broken upper insulators usually result from a poor fitting wrench or an
outside impact. The cracked insulator may not show up right away, but will as soon as oil or
moisture penetrates the crack. The crack is usually just below the crimped part of the shell and
may not be visible.
Broken lower insulators usually result from carelessness when regapping and generally are visible.
This type of break may result from the plug operating too "hot," which may happen in periods of
high-speed operation or under heavy loads. When regapping a spark plug, always make the gap
adjustment by bending the ground (side) electrode. Spark plugs with broken insulators should
always be replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Conventional Ignition
Spark Plug: Service and Repair Conventional Ignition
Description
Description
Removal Procedure
1. Turn the ignition key OFF. 2. Remove foreign material from around the spark plug holes. 3.
Remove the wires from the plugs. 4. Remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket.
Installation Procedure
1. Adjust the spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gauge. While gapping the plug
be sure to keep the platinum pads aligned to
ensure maximum plug life.
2 Install new plugs and tighten properly.
3. Reapply dielectric lubricant to the insulator boot. Tighten to 18 Nm (13 lb ft). 4. Reattach the
boots to the plugs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Conventional Ignition > Page 5836
Spark Plug: Service and Repair Integrated Direct Ignition
Removal Procedure
Tools Required
J 36011 Spark Plug Connector Assembly Removal Tool
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the integrated Direct Ignition (IDI) assembly 4
bolts and connector. 3. Remove by pulling straight up on the housing. 4. Use the J 36011 to
remove connector assembly(s) is stuck to the spark plugs. Use the tools by first twisting then
pulling up on the connector
assembly.
5. Remove the debris from the area around the spark plugs. 6. Remove the spark plugs using a
spark plug socket.
Installation Procedure
1. Adjust the spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gauge. While gapping the plug
be sure to keep the platinum pads aligned to
ensure maximum plug life.
2. Hand start the spark plugs into the cylinder head and tighten. Tighten the plugs to 18 Nm (13 lb
ft). 3. Reinstall onto the IDI any spark plug boot connector assembly that stuck to a spark plug.
^ Check to be sure the spring terminal is inside the boot.
^ Reapply dielectric lubricant to the insulator boot.
4. Locate the IDI assembly over the spark plugs and push straight down. 5. Remove any loose
lubricant that is present on the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts.
IMPORTANT: Hand start the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts.
6. Apply threadlocker onto the IDI assembly to cam housing bolts. Tighten the bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb
ft). 7. Install the electrical connector. 8. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5848
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5849
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5855
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5856
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5857
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Page 5861
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock (BTSI) Solenoid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve Connector, Wiring Harness Side
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve Connector, Wiring Harness Side > Page 5866
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
TCC Solenoid Valve To Valve Body
......................................................................................................................................................... 11
Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 5872
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 5873
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the valve body cover. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 2. Remove the
transmission mount bracket. 3. Disconnect the solenoid wire harness from the case electrical
connector. 4. Disconnect the wire leads from the pressure switch.
5. Remove the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt from the control valve body.
6. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch. 7. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 5874
1. Install the 2nd clutch pressure switch, if applicable.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install 3rd clutch pressure switch.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
3. Install the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt to the control valve body. 4. Install the 0-ring.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
5. Connect the wire leads to the pressure switch. 6. Connect the solenoid wire harness to the case
electrical connector. 7. Install the transmission mount bracket. 8. Install the valve body cover with a
new gasket. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 9. Inspect the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch (S) .............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 5881
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch Assembly Bolts
......................................................................................................................................................... 12
Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5882
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5891
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5892
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5898
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5899
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5900
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5901
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 5904
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 5905
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 5906
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications
Transmission Speed Sensor: Specifications
Sensor, Output Speed (Stud)-M6 x 1.0 x 15.0 (Qty 1)
........................................................................................................................ 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Speed Sensor Housing To Case
.............................................................................................................................................................
11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5910
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) lead from the transaxle. 2. Remove the VSS bolt. 3.
Remove the VSS retainer.
4. Remove the VSS assembly. 5. Remove the O-ring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 5913
1. Lubricate a new O-ring with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent. 2.
Install the new O-ring. 3. Install the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) assembly. 4. Install the VSS
retainer. 5. Install the VSS bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Connect the VSS lead to the transaxle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 5914
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Disconnect the electrical
connector. 3. Remove the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
4. Remove the vehicle speed sensor from the case extension.
5. Remove the O-ring from the vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the O-ring onto the vehicle speed sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 5915
2. Install the vehicle speed sensor into the case extension.
3. Install the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5924
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5925
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 87-65-19 > May > 98 > PCM - DTC U1016 Stored With No
Symptoms
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest PCM - DTC U1016 Stored With No
Symptoms
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 87-65-19
Date: May, 1998
Subject: DTC U1016, Stored Code with No Active Symptoms (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L Engine (VINs 4, T - RPOs
LN2, LD9) with Automatic Transmission Only
Condition
During diagnosis for various unrelated conditions, a DTC U1016 may be noted as stored in the
PCM with no active symptoms.
If there were an actual failure, this code would be accompanied by a similar code in the IP cluster
or in each of the devices on the UART line.
Cause
A calibration error may induce the PCM to store DTC U1016 as an inactive stored history code
during vehicle key-down.
Correction
If during diagnostics for other conditions, a DTC U1016 is noted without any symptoms that are
part of the parameter for setting the U1016 code, reprogram the PCM with the appropriate
calibration from the list. These calibrations are available on 1998 CD-ROM # 9 and later versions.
Service Procedure
1. Install a scan tool and verify that the previously noted DTC is set.
2. Note the calibration ID currently in the PCM.
3. Reprogram the PCM with the Calibration Number listed in the table.
4. Operate the vehicle and check for any additional DTC's.
5. If the vehicle exhibits a U1016 code after being reprogrammed, review the appropriate Service
Manual diagnostic procedures.
Calibration Numbers
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 87-65-19 > May > 98 > PCM - DTC U1016 Stored With No
Symptoms > Page 5930
Use the correct calibration from the list.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J6355 PROM-Reprogramming 0.4 hr
* Diagnosis time may be claimed for 0.0 to 0.3 hour depending on actual time performing
diagnosis.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-25A > Mar > 98 > PROM - Hesitation, Sag, Stall
When Cold
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest PROM - Hesitation, Sag, Stall
When Cold
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-25A
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Hesitation, Sag, or Engine Stall During Cold Driveaway Maneuver (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2) and
Automatic Transmission (MD9, MN4)
Vehicles Involved: Involved are Certain 1998 J-Car Models Equipped with the 2.2L (RPO LN2) VIN
Engine Code 4 Engine, that Fall within the VIN Breakpoints:
This bulletin is being revised to update calibration information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 77-5-25 (Section 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission).
Condition
Some vehicles may exhibit a hesitation, engine sag, or an engine stall during light acceleration (30
percent throttle or less) when the engine is cold. This condition may be more noticeable when the
ambient temperature is less than 10°C (50°F).
Cause
Certain fuels in combination with variations in manufacturing may allow some cars to run leaner
under certain conditions.
Correction
Reprogram the PCM with the revised calibration that takes into account the above conditions.
These calibrations are available on 1997 CD-ROM # 19 and later versions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-25A > Mar > 98 > PROM - Hesitation, Sag, Stall
When Cold > Page 5935
Calibration Numbers
Use the correct calibration from the list as shown.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J6355 Reprogram PCM 0.4 hr
(on car)
J6352 Reprogram PCM 0.4 hr
(off car)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5941
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5942
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
99-06-04-053 > Nov > 99 > PROM - Powertrain Control Module Reprogramming
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Powertrain
Control Module Reprogramming
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-053
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reprogramming (Do Not Reprogram Using the Same
Download Files as Those Already Present in The Control Module)
Models: 1990-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Reprogrammable PCM
It is strongly recommended to NOT reinstall the same software and/or calibration download file(s)
into the powertrain control module as those that are already present in the PCM. There is no
technical reason that the download files inside the PCM would ever become corrupted after the
control module had previously been successfully programmed. A P0601 (Control Module Read
Only Memory) Diagnostic Trouble Code would set in memory and the MIL would be illuminated if
the controller memory became corrupted.
The Techline Information System 2000 (TIS 2000) PC, combined with vehicle information gained
through the Tech 2, can determine when an attempt to reprogram a PCM using the same download
files (as those already in the control module) is being requested. If this is attempted, the TIS 2000
PC currently displays the following message:
Notice:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL MODULE.
PROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILES IS NOT AN EFFECTIVE REPAIR.
SELECT ( YES ) TO CONTINUE PROGRAMMING THE CONTROL MODULE,OR ( NO ) TO
CANCEL.
Effective in the first quarter of 2000, the TIS 2000 PC will indicate:
Important:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS ALREADY THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL
MODULE. REPROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILE IS NOT ALLOWED.
Certain learned values, such as: (but not limited to)
^ fuel trim (previously known as block learn memory),
^ IAC learned position in various park/neutral and air conditioning on/off combinations,
^ certain OBDII diagnostic thresholds,
^ automatic transmission shift adapts
will revert back to their unlearned starting point values after a reprogramming event occurs.
It is feasible that the engine or transmission might temporarily operate differently after a
reprogramming event, until these values are re-learned. Relearning occurs while operating the
vehicle through normal driving routines. If the same download files are simply reinstalled, any
changes noticed in engine operation will likely disappear in a short amount of time and/or driving
distance.
Reprogramming the control module with the same download files that already exist in the module
will only accomplish a warranty claim for a non-effective repair, and a likely comeback.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
87-65-19 > May > 98 > PCM - DTC U1016 Stored With No Symptoms
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - DTC U1016
Stored With No Symptoms
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 87-65-19
Date: May, 1998
Subject: DTC U1016, Stored Code with No Active Symptoms (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L Engine (VINs 4, T - RPOs
LN2, LD9) with Automatic Transmission Only
Condition
During diagnosis for various unrelated conditions, a DTC U1016 may be noted as stored in the
PCM with no active symptoms.
If there were an actual failure, this code would be accompanied by a similar code in the IP cluster
or in each of the devices on the UART line.
Cause
A calibration error may induce the PCM to store DTC U1016 as an inactive stored history code
during vehicle key-down.
Correction
If during diagnostics for other conditions, a DTC U1016 is noted without any symptoms that are
part of the parameter for setting the U1016 code, reprogram the PCM with the appropriate
calibration from the list. These calibrations are available on 1998 CD-ROM # 9 and later versions.
Service Procedure
1. Install a scan tool and verify that the previously noted DTC is set.
2. Note the calibration ID currently in the PCM.
3. Reprogram the PCM with the Calibration Number listed in the table.
4. Operate the vehicle and check for any additional DTC's.
5. If the vehicle exhibits a U1016 code after being reprogrammed, review the appropriate Service
Manual diagnostic procedures.
Calibration Numbers
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
87-65-19 > May > 98 > PCM - DTC U1016 Stored With No Symptoms > Page 5951
Use the correct calibration from the list.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J6355 PROM-Reprogramming 0.4 hr
* Diagnosis time may be claimed for 0.0 to 0.3 hour depending on actual time performing
diagnosis.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
77-65-25A > Mar > 98 > PROM - Hesitation, Sag, Stall When Cold
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Hesitation,
Sag, Stall When Cold
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-25A
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Hesitation, Sag, or Engine Stall During Cold Driveaway Maneuver (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2) and
Automatic Transmission (MD9, MN4)
Vehicles Involved: Involved are Certain 1998 J-Car Models Equipped with the 2.2L (RPO LN2) VIN
Engine Code 4 Engine, that Fall within the VIN Breakpoints:
This bulletin is being revised to update calibration information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 77-5-25 (Section 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission).
Condition
Some vehicles may exhibit a hesitation, engine sag, or an engine stall during light acceleration (30
percent throttle or less) when the engine is cold. This condition may be more noticeable when the
ambient temperature is less than 10°C (50°F).
Cause
Certain fuels in combination with variations in manufacturing may allow some cars to run leaner
under certain conditions.
Correction
Reprogram the PCM with the revised calibration that takes into account the above conditions.
These calibrations are available on 1997 CD-ROM # 19 and later versions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
77-65-25A > Mar > 98 > PROM - Hesitation, Sag, Stall When Cold > Page 5956
Calibration Numbers
Use the correct calibration from the list as shown.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J6355 Reprogram PCM 0.4 hr
(on car)
J6352 Reprogram PCM 0.4 hr
(off car)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
99-06-04-053 > Nov > 99 > PROM - Powertrain Control Module Reprogramming
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Powertrain
Control Module Reprogramming
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-053
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reprogramming (Do Not Reprogram Using the Same
Download Files as Those Already Present in The Control Module)
Models: 1990-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Reprogrammable PCM
It is strongly recommended to NOT reinstall the same software and/or calibration download file(s)
into the powertrain control module as those that are already present in the PCM. There is no
technical reason that the download files inside the PCM would ever become corrupted after the
control module had previously been successfully programmed. A P0601 (Control Module Read
Only Memory) Diagnostic Trouble Code would set in memory and the MIL would be illuminated if
the controller memory became corrupted.
The Techline Information System 2000 (TIS 2000) PC, combined with vehicle information gained
through the Tech 2, can determine when an attempt to reprogram a PCM using the same download
files (as those already in the control module) is being requested. If this is attempted, the TIS 2000
PC currently displays the following message:
Notice:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL MODULE.
PROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILES IS NOT AN EFFECTIVE REPAIR.
SELECT ( YES ) TO CONTINUE PROGRAMMING THE CONTROL MODULE,OR ( NO ) TO
CANCEL.
Effective in the first quarter of 2000, the TIS 2000 PC will indicate:
Important:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS ALREADY THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL
MODULE. REPROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILE IS NOT ALLOWED.
Certain learned values, such as: (but not limited to)
^ fuel trim (previously known as block learn memory),
^ IAC learned position in various park/neutral and air conditioning on/off combinations,
^ certain OBDII diagnostic thresholds,
^ automatic transmission shift adapts
will revert back to their unlearned starting point values after a reprogramming event occurs.
It is feasible that the engine or transmission might temporarily operate differently after a
reprogramming event, until these values are re-learned. Relearning occurs while operating the
vehicle through normal driving routines. If the same download files are simply reinstalled, any
changes noticed in engine operation will likely disappear in a short amount of time and/or driving
distance.
Reprogramming the control module with the same download files that already exist in the module
will only accomplish a warranty claim for a non-effective repair, and a likely comeback.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 5973
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 5974
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5980
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5981
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Page 5982
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 5986
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock (BTSI) Solenoid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve
Connector, Wiring Harness Side
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve
Connector, Wiring Harness Side > Page 5991
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
TCC Solenoid Valve To Valve Body
......................................................................................................................................................... 11
Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 5997
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5998
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the valve body cover. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 2. Remove the
transmission mount bracket. 3. Disconnect the solenoid wire harness from the case electrical
connector. 4. Disconnect the wire leads from the pressure switch.
5. Remove the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt from the control valve body.
6. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch. 7. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5999
1. Install the 2nd clutch pressure switch, if applicable.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install 3rd clutch pressure switch.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
3. Install the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt to the control valve body. 4. Install the 0-ring.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
5. Connect the wire leads to the pressure switch. 6. Connect the solenoid wire harness to the case
electrical connector. 7. Install the transmission mount bracket. 8. Install the valve body cover with a
new gasket. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 9. Inspect the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
6010
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
6011
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON > Page 6017
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON > Page 6018
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6019
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6023
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock (BTSI) Solenoid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve Connector,
Wiring Harness Side
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve Connector,
Wiring Harness Side > Page 6028
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
TCC Solenoid Valve To Valve Body
......................................................................................................................................................... 11
Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 3T40 Automatic
Transaxle
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 3T40 Automatic
Transaxle > Page 6034
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6035
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the valve body cover. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 2. Remove the
transmission mount bracket. 3. Disconnect the solenoid wire harness from the case electrical
connector. 4. Disconnect the wire leads from the pressure switch.
5. Remove the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt from the control valve body.
6. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch. 7. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6036
1. Install the 2nd clutch pressure switch, if applicable.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install 3rd clutch pressure switch.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
3. Install the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt to the control valve body. 4. Install the 0-ring.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
5. Connect the wire leads to the pressure switch. 6. Connect the solenoid wire harness to the case
electrical connector. 7. Install the transmission mount bracket. 8. Install the valve body cover with a
new gasket. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 9. Inspect the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 04-07-30-028A > Jan > 06 > A/T - 4T65-E
Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover
Band Apply Servo: Customer Interest A/T - 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-028A
Date: January 12, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: 4T65-E Automatic Transmission Fluid Leak From Reverse Servo Cover (Replace Reverse
Servo Cover Seal)
Models: 2005 and Prior Cars and Light Duty Trucks
with Automatic Transmission 4T65-E (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to announce an improved reverse servo cover seal is available from
GMSPO and to advise technicians that it is no longer necessary to replace the reverse servo cover
when replacing the seal. The 2005 model year vehicles are also being added. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-028 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a fluid leak under the vehicle. A transmission fluid leak may be
noted during the Pre-delivery Inspection (PDI).
Cause
A possible cause of a transmission fluid leak usually only during cold ambient temperatures below
-6.7°C (20°F) may be the reverse servo cover seal. The reverse servo cover seal may shrink in
cold ambient temperatures causing a transmission fluid leak.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and repair procedure below to correct this condition.
1. Diagnose the source of the fluid leak.
2. If the source of the transmission fluid leak is the reverse servo cover, replace the reverse servo
cover seal with P/N 24235894. Refer to Reverse Servo Replacement in the appropriate Service
Manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 04-07-30-028A > Jan > 06 > A/T - 4T65-E
Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover > Page 6045
3. Clean the area around and below the cover.
4. Inspect the transmission fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure in the
appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-07-30-028A > Jan > 06 > A/T
- 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover
Band Apply Servo: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo
Cover
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-028A
Date: January 12, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: 4T65-E Automatic Transmission Fluid Leak From Reverse Servo Cover (Replace Reverse
Servo Cover Seal)
Models: 2005 and Prior Cars and Light Duty Trucks
with Automatic Transmission 4T65-E (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to announce an improved reverse servo cover seal is available from
GMSPO and to advise technicians that it is no longer necessary to replace the reverse servo cover
when replacing the seal. The 2005 model year vehicles are also being added. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-028 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a fluid leak under the vehicle. A transmission fluid leak may be
noted during the Pre-delivery Inspection (PDI).
Cause
A possible cause of a transmission fluid leak usually only during cold ambient temperatures below
-6.7°C (20°F) may be the reverse servo cover seal. The reverse servo cover seal may shrink in
cold ambient temperatures causing a transmission fluid leak.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and repair procedure below to correct this condition.
1. Diagnose the source of the fluid leak.
2. If the source of the transmission fluid leak is the reverse servo cover, replace the reverse servo
cover seal with P/N 24235894. Refer to Reverse Servo Replacement in the appropriate Service
Manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-07-30-028A > Jan > 06 > A/T
- 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover > Page 6051
3. Clean the area around and below the cover.
4. Inspect the transmission fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure in the
appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Band Apply Servo: > 73-50-26 >
Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light
ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Band Apply Servo: > 73-50-26 >
Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 6057
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Band Apply Servo: > 73-50-26 >
Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 6058
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Band Apply Servo: > 73-50-26 >
Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 6064
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Band Apply Servo: > 73-50-26 >
Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 6065
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Band Apply Servo: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Intermediate Servo Cover ....................................................................................................................
....................................................... 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6068
Band Apply Servo: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Tube Assembly, Transmission Oil To Lo/Reverse Servo Cover-M6 x 1.0 x 19.0 (Qty 1)
.................................................................. 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement
Band Apply Servo: Service and Repair Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 3. Remove the oil pan. 4.
Remove the lo and the reverse band servo cover bolts.
5. Remove the lo and the reverse band servo cover.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement > Page 6071
6. Remove the lo and the reverse band servo snap ring.
7. Remove the reverse band servo cover seal. 8. Remove the reverse band servo piston seal.
9. Remove the lo and the reverse band servo piston.
10. Remove the 4th band servo piston inner spring. 11. Remove the lo and the reverse band servo
piston pin.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement > Page 6072
12. Remove the lo and the reverse band servo piston spring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the lo and the reverse band servo piston spring.
2. Install the lo and the reverse band servo piston pin. 3. Install the 4th band servo piston inner
spring. 4. Install the lo and the reverse band servo piston.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement > Page 6073
5. Install the reverse band servo piston seal. 6. Install the reverse band servo cover seal.
7. Install the lo and the reverse band servo snap ring.
8. Install the lo and the reverse band servo cover.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement > Page 6074
9. Install the lo and the reverse band servo cover bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
10. Install the oil pan 11. Lower the vehicle. 12. Add transmission fluid. 13. Connect the negative
battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
14. Inspect the fluid level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement > Page 6075
Band Apply Servo: Service and Repair Intermediate/4TH Servo Assembly Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 3. Remove the bottom pan. 4.
Remove the 4th band servo cover bolts.
5. Remove the 4th band servo cover.
6. Remove the snap ring.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement > Page 6076
7. Remove the 4th band servo piston seal ring.
8. Remove the 4th band servo piston seal. 9. Remove the 4th band servo piston.
10. Remove the 4th band servo piston inner spring. 11. Remove the 4th band servo piston pin.
12. Remove the intermediate band servo piston spring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement > Page 6077
1. Install the intermediate band servo piston spring.
2. Install the 4th band servo piston pin. 3. Install the 4th band servo piston inner spring. 4. Install
the 4th band servo piston. 5. Install the 4th band servo piston seal.
6. Install the 4th band piston seal ring.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Low/Reverse Servo Assembly Replacement > Page 6078
7. Install the snap ring.
8. Install the 4th band servo cover.
9. Install the 4th band servo cover bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
10. Install the bottom pan. 11. Lower the vehicle. 12. Add transmission fluid 13. Connect the
negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
14. Inspect the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Case: > 87-71-66 > May > 98 > A/T Delayed/Slow or No Second to Third Gear Upshift
Case: Customer Interest A/T - Delayed/Slow or No Second to Third Gear Upshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 87-71-66
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Delayed, Slow or No Second to Third Gear Upshift (Replace the Case Cover Assembly or
Transmission Assembly)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with HYDRA-MATIC 3T4O
Transaxle/Transmission (RPO MD9)
Condition
Some owners outside of the recall population may comment on a delayed, slow or no second to
third gear upshift.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a fluid pressure leak between the driven sprocket support and the
case cover assembly.
Correction
To repair this condition the case cover assembly or the transmission assembly must be replaced.
Service Information Procedure
1. Verify the customer concern.
2. Check the transmission fluid for proper level.
3. Use the fluid color chart to determine the appropriate repair procedure.
Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure
Diagnosing Transmission Fluid by Color -
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Case: > 87-71-66 > May > 98 > A/T Delayed/Slow or No Second to Third Gear Upshift > Page 6087
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Case: > 87-71-66 > May > 98 >
A/T - Delayed/Slow or No Second to Third Gear Upshift
Case: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Delayed/Slow or No Second to Third Gear Upshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 87-71-66
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Delayed, Slow or No Second to Third Gear Upshift (Replace the Case Cover Assembly or
Transmission Assembly)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with HYDRA-MATIC 3T4O
Transaxle/Transmission (RPO MD9)
Condition
Some owners outside of the recall population may comment on a delayed, slow or no second to
third gear upshift.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a fluid pressure leak between the driven sprocket support and the
case cover assembly.
Correction
To repair this condition the case cover assembly or the transmission assembly must be replaced.
Service Information Procedure
1. Verify the customer concern.
2. Check the transmission fluid for proper level.
3. Use the fluid color chart to determine the appropriate repair procedure.
Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure
Diagnosing Transmission Fluid by Color -
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Case: > 87-71-66 > May > 98 >
A/T - Delayed/Slow or No Second to Third Gear Upshift > Page 6093
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6094
Case: Specifications
Manual Detent Spring Assembly To Case
.................................................................................................................................................. 11 Nm
(8 ft. lbs.) Parking Lock Bracket To Case ............................................................................................
..................................................................... 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) Pipe Retainer To Case .....................
......................................................................................................................................................... 24
Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Case: Service and Repair 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the transmission bracket. 3. Remove the valve body cover. Refer to Valve Body Cover
Replacement. 4. Disconnect the TCC wire from the case connector.
5. Remove the control valve body bolts.
6. Remove the control valve body from the oil pump.
IMPORTANT: Do not lose the check balls.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6097
7. Remove the oil pump assembly bolts. 8. Remove the oil pump assembly from the case cover.
9. Remove the oil pump drive shaft.
10. Remove the control valve body spacer plate. 11. Remove the spacer plate gaskets.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6098
12. Remove the case cover bolts. 13. Remove the case cover. 14. Install two 12 x 1.95 x 14 bolts
in the dowel pin holes and tighten equally in order to pull the case cover loose 15. Inspect the drive
link assembly. Refer to Drive Link Assembly Replacement.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the case cover. 2. Install the case cover bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). Install the check balls into the case cover.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the spacer plate gaskets. 4. Install the control valve body spacer plate.
5. Install the oil pump drive shaft. 6. Install the check ball into the control valve assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6099
7. Install the oil pump assembly to the case cover. 8. Install the oil pump assembly bolts.
9. Install the control valve body to the oil pump.
10. Install the control valve body bolts.
11. Connect the TCC wire to the case electrical connector. 12. Install the valve body cover. Refer
to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 13. Install the transmission mount bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6100
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6101
Case: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Install the J 28467-360 to the transmission. 3. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 4. Remove the
upper transmission support assembly bolts.
5. Remove the upper side cover bolts. 6. Remove the transmission mount from the transmission.
Refer to the appropriate procedure:
^ AT Mount Replacement (Front)
^ AT Mount Replacement (Rear)
^ AT Mount Replacement (Side)
7. Remove the transmission support from the transmission. Refer to A/T Mount Replacement
(Side). 8. Remove the left outer tie rod from the steering knuckle assembly. Refer to Steering
Knuckle Replacement in Suspension. 9. Remove the left ball joint from the steering knuckle
assembly. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement in Suspension.
10. Remove the brake caliper from the steering knuckle assembly. Refer to Brake Caliper
Replacement in Disc Brakes. 11. Remove the drive axle from the transmission and the support.
Refer to Wheel Drive Shafts Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6102
12. Remove the front suspension support brace bolts from the suspension support.
13. Remove the front suspension support brace. 14. Remove the oil cooler lines from the
transmission. Refer to A/T Oil Cooler Pipes Replacement.
15. Remove the clips that attach the wire harness to the body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6103
16. Remove the left suspension support bolts. 17. Loosen the right suspension support bolts
enough in order to remove the upper side cover. 18. Lower the vehicle. 19. Lower the transmission
with the engine support fixture enough in order to remove the upper side cover. 20. Raise and
suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
21. Remove the lower side cover bolts and studs.
22. Remove the side cover.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6104
23. Remove the side cover gasket. 24. Clean the case and the side cover gasket surfaces.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
1. Install the side cover gasket.
2. Install the side cover.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6105
3. Install the side cover lower bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the transmission support assembly. Refer to A/T Mount Replacement (Side). 5. Loosely
install the lower transmission support assembly bolts. 6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Use the J 28467-360 in order to raise the transmission.
8. Install the side cover upper bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the transmission mount. Refer to the appropriate procedure:
^ AT Mount Replacement (Front)
^ AT Mount Replacement (Rear)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6106
^ AT Mount Replacement (Side)
10. Attach the wire harness to the body. 11. Install the oil cooler lines to the transmission. Refer to
A/T Oil Cooler Pipes Replacement.
12. Tighten the right front suspension support bolts. 13. Install the left front suspension support
bolts.
14. Install the front suspension support brace.
15. Install the front suspension support brace bolts. 16. Install the drive axle to the transmission.
Refer to Wheel Drive Shafts Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts. 17. Install the left ball joint to the
steering knuckle assembly. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement in Suspension. 18. Install the
left outer tie rod to the steering knuckle assembly. Refer to Steering Knuckle Replacement in
Suspension. 19. Install the brake caliper to the steering knuckle assembly. Refer to Brake Caliper
Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6107
20. Install the left splash shield. 21. Install the left wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Wheel
Installation in Tires and Wheels. 22. Lower the vehicle. 23. Install the air cleaner assembly.
24. Remove the J 28467-360 from the transmission. 25. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
26. Add transmission fluid. 27. Apply the brakes. Start the engine. Shift the transmission from R
(Reverse) to D (Drive). 28. Install the transmission mount pipe expansion bolt. Refer to the
appropriate procedure:
^ AT Mount Replacement (Front)
^ AT Mount Replacement (Rear)
^ AT Mount Replacement (Side)
29. Inspect the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid
Leaking From A/T Vent
Channel Plate: Customer Interest A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid
Leaking From A/T Vent > Page 6116
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-07-30-036H > Jan > 09 > A/T
Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
Channel Plate: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-036H
Date: January 29, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips for Automatic Transmission DTC P0756, Second, Third, Fourth Gear Start
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32 or M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year and add details regarding spacer plates.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-036G (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some dealership technicians may have difficulty diagnosing DTC P0756, 2-3 Shift Valve
Performance on 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E automatic transmissions. As detailed in the Service
Manual, when the PCM detects a 4-3-3-4 shift pattern, DTC P0756 will set. Some customers may
also describe a condition of a second, third or fourth gear start that may have the same causes but
has not set this DTC yet. Below are some tips when diagnosing this DTC:
^ This is a performance code. This means that a mechanical malfunction exists.
^ This code is not set by electrical issues such as a damaged wiring harness or poor electrical
connections. Electrical problems would cause a DTC P0758, P0787 or P0788 to set.
^ The most likely cause is chips/debris plugging the filtered AFL oil at orifice # 29 on the top of the
spacer plate (48). This is a very small hole and is easily plugged by a small amount of debris. It is
important to remove the spacer plate and inspect orifice # 29 and the immediate area for the
presence of chips/debris. Also, the transmission case passage directly above this orifice and the
valve body passage directly below should be inspected and cleaned of any chips/debris. For 2003
and newer vehicles the spacer plate should be replaced. The service replacement spacer plate is a
bonded style with gaskets and solenoid filter screens bonded to the spacer plate. These screens
can help to prevent plugging of orifice # 29 caused by small debris or chips.
^ This code could be set if the 2-3 shift valve (368) were stuck or hung-up in its bore. Inspect the
2-3 shift valve (368) and the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) for free movement or damage and clean the
valves, the bore and the valve body passages.
^ This code could be set by a 2-3 shift solenoid (367b) if it were cracked, broken or leaking. Refer
to Shift Solenoid Leak Test in the appropriate Service Manual for the leak test procedure. Based on
parts return findings, a damaged or leaking shift solenoid is the least likely cause of this condition.
Simply replacing a shift solenoid will not correct this condition unless the solenoid has been found
to be cracked, broken or leaking.
It is important to also refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Service Information (SI) for further
possible causes of this condition.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
Channel Plate: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent > Page 6126
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Channel Plate: > 04-07-30-013B >
Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Channel Plate: > 04-07-30-013B >
Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 6132
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Channel Plate: > 04-07-30-013B >
Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 6138
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T - No Movement
in Drive or 3rd Gear
Clutch: Customer Interest A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-027
Date: June 04, 2008
Subject: No Movement When Transmission is Shifted to Drive or Third - Normal Operation When
Shifted to Second, First or Reverse (Replace Forward Sprag Assembly)
Models: 1982 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2006 - 2007 Buick Rainier 2006
Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT 2006 Chevrolet SSR 2006 - 2008 Chevrolet
Avalanche, Colorado, Express, Silverado Classic, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, TrailBlazer 2006
GMC Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL 2006 - 2008 GMC Canyon, Envoy, Savana, Sierra Classic,
Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2006 Pontiac GTO 2006 - 2007 HUMMER H2 2006 - 2008 HUMMER H3
2006 - 2008 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60, 4L60E, 4L65E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MD8, M30, M32, M33 or M70)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the vehicle has no movement when the transmission is shifted
to DRIVE or THIRD position, but there is normal operation when it is shifted to SECOND, FIRST or
REVERSE position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a damaged forward sprag assembly (642).
Correction
When inspecting the sprag, it is important to test the sprag for proper operation by holding the outer
race (644) with one hand while rotating the input sun gear (640) with the other hand. The sun gear
should rotate only in the counterclockwise direction with the input sun gear facing upward. If the
sprag rotates in both directions or will not rotate in either direction, the sprag elements should be
inspected by removing one of the sprag assembly retaining rings (643). Refer to SI Unit Repair
section for forward clutch sprag disassembly procedures.
If the sprag is found to be damaged, make repairs to the transmission as necessary. A new forward
roller clutch sprag assembly is now available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T - No Movement
in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 6147
If clutch debris is found, it is also very important to inspect the Pressure Control (PC) solenoid
valve (377) fluid screens. Clean or replace the PC solenoid (377) as necessary. It is also important
to flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J45096. Refer to SI Automatic
Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test for the procedure.
The notches above each sprag must point up as shown when assembled into the outer race.
Bearing Assembly, Input Sun Gear
Snap Ring, Overrun Clutch Hub Retaining
Hub, Overrun Clutch
Wear Plate, Sprag Assembly
Retainer and Race Assembly, Sprag
Forward Sprag Assembly
Retainer Rings, Sprag Assembly
Outer Race, Forward Clutch
Washer, Thrust (Input Carrier to Race)
The following information applies when this sprag is used in 1982-86 transmissions.
The new design sprag can be used on models 1982 through 1986, by replacing the entire
assembly (637 - 644). Individual components are NOT
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T - No Movement
in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 6148
interchangeable.
Important:
The wear plate (640) and input thrust washer (660) are not required with the new sprag. Use of the
thrust washer and wear plate with the new sprag assembly will cause a misbuild (correct end play
cannot be obtained).
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun >
08 > A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-027
Date: June 04, 2008
Subject: No Movement When Transmission is Shifted to Drive or Third - Normal Operation When
Shifted to Second, First or Reverse (Replace Forward Sprag Assembly)
Models: 1982 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2006 - 2007 Buick Rainier 2006
Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT 2006 Chevrolet SSR 2006 - 2008 Chevrolet
Avalanche, Colorado, Express, Silverado Classic, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, TrailBlazer 2006
GMC Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL 2006 - 2008 GMC Canyon, Envoy, Savana, Sierra Classic,
Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2006 Pontiac GTO 2006 - 2007 HUMMER H2 2006 - 2008 HUMMER H3
2006 - 2008 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60, 4L60E, 4L65E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MD8, M30, M32, M33 or M70)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the vehicle has no movement when the transmission is shifted
to DRIVE or THIRD position, but there is normal operation when it is shifted to SECOND, FIRST or
REVERSE position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a damaged forward sprag assembly (642).
Correction
When inspecting the sprag, it is important to test the sprag for proper operation by holding the outer
race (644) with one hand while rotating the input sun gear (640) with the other hand. The sun gear
should rotate only in the counterclockwise direction with the input sun gear facing upward. If the
sprag rotates in both directions or will not rotate in either direction, the sprag elements should be
inspected by removing one of the sprag assembly retaining rings (643). Refer to SI Unit Repair
section for forward clutch sprag disassembly procedures.
If the sprag is found to be damaged, make repairs to the transmission as necessary. A new forward
roller clutch sprag assembly is now available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun >
08 > A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 6154
If clutch debris is found, it is also very important to inspect the Pressure Control (PC) solenoid
valve (377) fluid screens. Clean or replace the PC solenoid (377) as necessary. It is also important
to flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J45096. Refer to SI Automatic
Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test for the procedure.
The notches above each sprag must point up as shown when assembled into the outer race.
Bearing Assembly, Input Sun Gear
Snap Ring, Overrun Clutch Hub Retaining
Hub, Overrun Clutch
Wear Plate, Sprag Assembly
Retainer and Race Assembly, Sprag
Forward Sprag Assembly
Retainer Rings, Sprag Assembly
Outer Race, Forward Clutch
Washer, Thrust (Input Carrier to Race)
The following information applies when this sprag is used in 1982-86 transmissions.
The new design sprag can be used on models 1982 through 1986, by replacing the entire
assembly (637 - 644). Individual components are NOT
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun >
08 > A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 6155
interchangeable.
Important:
The wear plate (640) and input thrust washer (660) are not required with the new sprag. Use of the
thrust washer and wear plate with the new sprag assembly will cause a misbuild (correct end play
cannot be obtained).
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 03-07-30-006 > Mar >
03 > A/T - 4T40-E/4T45-T Engineering Changes
Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T40-E/4T45-T Engineering Changes
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-006
Date: March, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: MN4 (4T40-E) MN5 (4T45-E) Engineering Changes
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1997-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40-E (MN4) or 4T45-E (MN5)
Automatic Transmission
Engineering changes have been incorporated into the MN4 and MN5 Reverse Clutch Housing and
related parts beginning with transmission assemblies produced on December 4, 2002, Julian Date
02 338. Refer to the following list for the affected parts and a description of how each changed:
The new Reverse Clutch Center Seal has a larger feed orifice.
^ The new Reverse Clutch Snap Ring is thicker and stiffer.
^ The new Reverse Housing Snap Ring Grove is wider to accommodate the thicker snap ring.
Elimination of the Backing Plate Selectives. The new clutch assembly is built with only the thickest
of the three previous selective backing plates. The new Reverse Wave Plate is stiffer.
Notice:
To maintain proper operating calibration of the transmission, determine which Reverse Clutch
Housing, Center Seat, Snap Ring, Backing Plate and Wave Plate to use according to the Julian
date on which the transmission was assembled. Failure to use these parts as instructed will cause
improper function, shift feel, and possible transmission distress. The affected service kits include
an instruction sheet that details the difference between the 1st and 2nd design center seals, and
how to determine which to use.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 00-07-30-013 > Jun >
00 > A/T - 4T40-E/4T45-E Forward Clutch Piston Change
Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T40-E/4T45-E Forward Clutch Piston Change
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-013
Date: June, 2000
INFORMATION
Subject: Forward Clutch Piston Change on 4T40-E/4T45-E Automatic Transaxles
Models: 1998-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1998-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2000
Oldsmobile Alero 1998-2000 Pontiac Sunfire 1999-2000 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40-E or 4T45-E
(RPOs MN4, MN5) Automatic Transaxle
Starting with transmission Julian date 9058, the forward clutch piston was changed for ease of
assembly in manufacturing. The pistons will have the same part number (24208641), and either
one may be used for service. Above is a picture showing the old design (1), and the new design
(2).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 03-07-30-006 > Mar > 03 >
A/T - 4T40-E/4T45-T Engineering Changes
Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T40-E/4T45-T Engineering Changes
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-006
Date: March, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: MN4 (4T40-E) MN5 (4T45-E) Engineering Changes
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1997-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40-E (MN4) or 4T45-E (MN5)
Automatic Transmission
Engineering changes have been incorporated into the MN4 and MN5 Reverse Clutch Housing and
related parts beginning with transmission assemblies produced on December 4, 2002, Julian Date
02 338. Refer to the following list for the affected parts and a description of how each changed:
The new Reverse Clutch Center Seal has a larger feed orifice.
^ The new Reverse Clutch Snap Ring is thicker and stiffer.
^ The new Reverse Housing Snap Ring Grove is wider to accommodate the thicker snap ring.
Elimination of the Backing Plate Selectives. The new clutch assembly is built with only the thickest
of the three previous selective backing plates. The new Reverse Wave Plate is stiffer.
Notice:
To maintain proper operating calibration of the transmission, determine which Reverse Clutch
Housing, Center Seat, Snap Ring, Backing Plate and Wave Plate to use according to the Julian
date on which the transmission was assembled. Failure to use these parts as instructed will cause
improper function, shift feel, and possible transmission distress. The affected service kits include
an instruction sheet that details the difference between the 1st and 2nd design center seals, and
how to determine which to use.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 00-07-30-013 > Jun > 00 >
A/T - 4T40-E/4T45-E Forward Clutch Piston Change
Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T40-E/4T45-E Forward Clutch Piston Change
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-013
Date: June, 2000
INFORMATION
Subject: Forward Clutch Piston Change on 4T40-E/4T45-E Automatic Transaxles
Models: 1998-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1998-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2000
Oldsmobile Alero 1998-2000 Pontiac Sunfire 1999-2000 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40-E or 4T45-E
(RPOs MN4, MN5) Automatic Transaxle
Starting with transmission Julian date 9058, the forward clutch piston was changed for ease of
assembly in manufacturing. The pistons will have the same part number (24208641), and either
one may be used for service. Above is a picture showing the old design (1), and the new design
(2).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6173
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Differential, Automatic
Transaxle > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Final Drive Pinion End Play Check
Differential: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Revised Final Drive Pinion End Play Check
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-79A
Date: February, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 7-Transmission/Transaxle - Transfer Case Unit Repair Manual (TURM) - 4T40-E
Final Drive Pinion End Play Check Specification
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Sunfire
with HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E Transaxle (RPO MN4) and 2.2L, 2.4L or 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M RPOs LN2, LD9, L82)
This bulletin is being revised to correct 1998 service manual page number. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 77-71-79 (Section 7 - Transmission).
This bulletin contains the 1997 and 1998 TURM manual with revised art work for the final drive
pinion end play check procedure. Replace these pages in your 1997 and 1998 TURM manual:
1997 - revised page is: 7A2B-57
1998 - revised page is: 7-754
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Differential, Automatic
Transaxle > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Final Drive Pinion End Play Check >
Page 6178
4T40-E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE UNIT REPAIR
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Differential, Automatic
Transaxle > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Final Drive Pinion End Play Check >
Page 6179
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE 4T40-E
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Drive Chain, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Drive Chain: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Remove the transmission mount. Refer to A/T Mount Replacement (Front) and A/T Mount
Replacement (Rear).
^ Remove the transmission support. Refer to Transmission Replacement.
^ Remove the valve body cover. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement.
^ Remove the case cover. Refer to Case Cover Replacement.
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
1. Remove the valve body cover. 2. Push the slack strand (bottom strand) of the drive link until all
slack is removed at the following locations:
^ Midway between the sprockets.
^ At right angles to the drive link.
3. Use a crayon to mark on the bottom side of the drive link. 4. Push up in the same manner and
put a second mark on the case. 5. Ensure that both marks are made from the point on the drive
link. 6. Measure the distance between the two marks. 7. Replace the drive link if the distance
exceeds 22.2 mm (7/8 inch). 8. Ensure that the three machined surfaces are flush with the
machined surface of the case. The drive link measurement will be inaccurate if the
surfaces are not flush.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Install the valve body cover. 1. Install the case cover. Refer to Case Cover Replacement. 2. Install
the valve body cover. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 3. Install the transmission support.
Refer to Transmission Replacement. 4. Install the transmission mount. Refer to A/T Mount
Replacement (Front) and A/T Mount Replacement (Rear).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-037E
Date: April 07, 2011
Subject: Release of DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
Models:
2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008
HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saturn Relay 2005 and Prior Saturn L-Series 2005-2007 Saturn ION
2005-2008 Saturn VUE with 4T45-E 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X Except 2008 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo,
Equinox Except 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Epica Except 2007 and Prior Chevrolet Optra Except
2008 and Prior Pontiac Torrent, Vibe, Wave Except 2003-2005 Saturn ION with CVT or AF23 Only
Except 1991-2002 Saturn S-Series Except 2008 and Prior Saturn VUE with CVT, AF33 or 5AT
(MJ7/MJ8) Transmission Only Except 2008 Saturn Astra
Attention:
DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs
for General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-037D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS / TRANSFER CASES and POWER STEERING
The content of this bulletin does not apply to manual transmissions or transfer cases. Any vehicle
that previously required DEXRON(R)-III for a manual transmission or transfer case should now use
P/N 88861800. This fluid is labeled Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid. Some manual
transmissions and transfer cases require a different fluid. Appropriate references should be
checked when servicing any of these components.
Power Steering Systems should now use P/N 9985010 labeled Power Steering Fluid.
Consult the Parts Catalog, Owner's Manual, or Service Information (SI) for fluid recommendations.
Some of our customers and/or General Motors dealerships/Saturn Retailers may have some
concerns with DEXRON(R)-VI and DEXRON(R)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and
transmission warranty claims. DEXRON(R)-VI is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs for
General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids (except as noted above). Please remember that the clean oil reservoirs of the
J-45096 - Flushing and Flow Tester machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with
DEXRON(R)-VI for testing, flushing or filling General Motors transmissions/transaxles (except as
noted above).
DEXRON(R)-VI can be used in any proportion in past model vehicles equipped with an automatic
transmission/transaxle in place of DEXRON(R)-III (i.e. topping off the fluid in the event of a repair
or fluid change). DEXRON(R)-VI is also compatible with any former version of DEXRON(R) for use
in automatic transmissions/transaxles.
DEXRON(R)-VI ATF
General Motors Powertrain has upgraded to DEXRON(R)-VI ATF with the start of 2006 vehicle
production.
Current and prior automatic transmission models that had used DEXRON(R)-III must now only use
DEXRON(R)-VI.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 6187
All 2006 and future model transmissions that use DEXRON(R)-VI are to be serviced ONLY with
DEXRON(R)-VI fluid.
DEXRON(R)-VI is an improvement over DEXRON(R)-III in the following areas:
* These ATF change intervals remain the same as DEXRON(R)-III for the time being.
2006-2008 Transmission Fill and Cooler Flushing
Some new applications of the 6L80 six speed transmission will require the use of the J 45096 Flushing and Flow Tester to accomplish transmission fluid fill. The clean oil reservoir of the
machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with DEXRON(R)-VI.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 6188
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 6189
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 6190
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Oil Cooler Flushing/Flow Check Procedures
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 99-07-30-017A
Date: February, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Check Procedures
Models: 2003 and Prior GM Light Duty Trucks 2003 HUMMER H2 with Allison(R) Automatic
Transmission (RPO M74)
This bulletin revises bulletin 99-07-30-017 to reflect the release of the new Transflow(R) J 45096
Transmission Cooling System Service Tool. The Transflow(R) Transmission Cooling System
Service Tool is to be used for all vehicles. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-07-30-017
(Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Important:
If you were sent here by the instruction booklet for the J 45096 TransFlow(R) machine, note that
the table has been moved to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications
3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Bottom Pan Removal ...........................................................................................................................
............................................... 3.8 Liters (4.0 Quarts)
Complete Overhaul ..............................................................................................................................
............................................... 6.6 Liters (7.0 Quarts)
Dry .......................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 8.5 Liters (9.0 Quarts)
4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Bottom Pan Removal ...........................................................................................................................
............................................... 7.0 Liters (7.4 Quarts)
Complete Overhaul ..............................................................................................................................
........................................... 10.0 Liters (10.6 Quarts)
New Converter .....................................................................................................................................
............................................... 2.5 Liters (2.6 Quarts)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 6193
Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications
DEXRON-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (or equivalent).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6194
Checking Oil Level
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > 3T40 Transaxle
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection 3T40 Transaxle
Transmission Fluid Level and Condition Check
Important: When you check the fluid level, the fluid will be higher on the indicator when the
transmission is cold. Conversely, the fluid level will drop when checked at operating temperature.
This is due to the case thermostat element.
1. Start the engine and operate the vehicle for 15 minutes or until the transmission fluid reaches an
operating temperature of 88°-93°C (190°-200°F). 2. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the
parking brake and block the wheels. 3. While the engine is idling and with your foot on the brake,
move the shift lever through each gear range, ending in Park. 4. Check the fluid level, color, and
condition. 5. If you must add fluid, use DEXRON-III Automatic Transmission Fluid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > 3T40 Transaxle > Page 6197
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > 3T40 Transaxle > Page 6198
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > 3T40 Transaxle > Page 6199
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection 4T40-E Transaxle
Transmission Fluid Level and Condition Check (Diagnosis)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > 3T40 Transaxle > Page 6200
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > 3T40 Transaxle > Page 6201
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Changing Oil and Filter
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Place A drain . pan under the
transmission Oil Pan. 3. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and the sides only. 4. Loosen the
rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns. 5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry in order
to allow the oil to drain.
NOTICE: Pry the oil pan down carefully in order to prevent damage to the transmission case or the
Oil Pan sealing surfaces.
6. Inspect the oil color. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure. 7. Remove the remaining
oil pan bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan.
9. Remove the oil pan gasket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6204
10. Remove the oil filter. 11. Remove the oil filter O-ring seal. 12. Inspect the O-ring seal. The
O-ring seal may be stuck in the case. 13. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Clean the
transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and allow to air dry.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 36850 TRANSJEL(R) Transmission Assembly Lubricant
NOTICE: Use TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent during assembly in order to retain checkballs
or to lubricate components. Greases other than the recommended assembly lube will change the
transmission fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.
1. Coat the seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent. 2. Install a new seal into the case. 3.
Install a new filter into the case.
4. Install a new oil pan gasket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6205
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Install the oil pan bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 in. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
7. Inspect the oil pan bolts and the washers. 8. Use adhesive and sealant compound GM P/N
12345382, or equivalent. 9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 11. Adjust the cold oil level
reading for the initial fill. Do not overfill. 12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.
Filler Tube Removal and Installation
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6206
1. Remove the oil level indicator.
2. Remove the nut or bolt that retains the fill tube to the mounting bracket. 3. Raise and suitably
support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 4. Place a drain pan under the transmission.
5. Loosen the filler tube from the transmission. 6. Remove the filler tube seal. 7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Pull the tube out of the vehicle from the top.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6207
1. Install the filler tube through the top of the vehicle. 2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 3. Install the filler tube seal into the transmission. Lubricate the seal with
DEXRON(R) IIE, or DEXRON(R) III. 4. Install the filler tube into the transmission. 5. Lower the
vehicle.
6. Install the nut that retains the tube to the mounting bracket.
7. Install the oil level indicator. 8. Adjust the oil level.
Transaxle Fluid Flushing
PREPARATION
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6208
^ Tools Required J 35944-A Oil Cooler and Line Flusher
- J 35944-20 Cooler Flushing Fluid
Whenever you remove a transmission for service, do a transmission oil cooler flushing. It is
essential to flush the oil cooler under the following conditions: ^
After a major overhaul
^ Suspected contamination
^ Pump or torque converter replacement For complete transmission service, perform the flush
procedure after the overhauled or replacement assembly is installed in the vehicle.
1. Remove the fill cap on the J 35944-A. 2. Fill the can with 0.6 liter (20-21 ounces) of J 35944-20,
or equivalent, cooler flushing fluid. Do not overfill. If you overfill, the tool will need
recharging with air before the backflush.
3. Follow the manufacturer's suggested procedures for proper handling of the solution.
IMPORTANT: Shop air supply must not exceed 825 kPa (120 psi), and must be equipped with a
water/oil filter.
4. Secure the fill cap, and pressurize the flusher can with shop air to 550-700 kPa (80-100 psi). 5.
Connect the J 35944-A to the transmission end of the transmission cooler pipe that feeds the
bottom fitting of the oil cooler. 6. Connect the discharge hose to the top oil cooler pipe. 7. Clip the
discharge hose to the oil drain container. 8. With the water valve on the tool in the OFF position,
connect the water hose from the water supply to the tool. 9. Turn ON the water supply at the
faucet.
INITIAL FLUSHING
IMPORTANT: If water does not flow through the cooler the system is completely plugged. Do not
complete the flushing procedure. Replace the cooler and/or the cooler pipes as required.
1. Switch the water valve on the tool to the ON position. Allow the water to flow through the oil
cooler for 10 seconds in order to remove the
transmission fluid in the system.
2. Switch the water valve on the tool to the OFF position. Clip the discharge hose onto a 5 gallon
pail with a lid. If no lid is available, place a shop
towel over the end of the hose in order to prevent splash. The discharge will foam vigorously when
you introduce solution into the water stream.
3. Switch the water valve on the tool to the ON position. Depress the trigger that mixes the flushing
solution into the water flow. Use the bale clip on
the handle in order to hold down the trigger.
4. Flush the oil cooler with water and solution for 2 minutes. During the flush, attach the air supply
to the air valve on the tool for 3-5 seconds after
every 15-20 second interval in order to create a surging action.
5. Release the trigger. Switch the water valve on the tool to the OFF position. 6. Disconnect both
hoses from the oil cooler pipes.
BACKFLUSH
1. Connect the hoses to the oil cooler pipes in order to perform a backflush. 2. Switch water valve
on the tool to the ON position. Depress the trigger in order to mix the flushing solution with the
water flow. Use the bale clip
on the handle to hold down the trigger.
3. Flush the oil cooler with water and solution for 2 minutes. During this flush, attach the air supply
to the air valve on the tool for 3-5 seconds after
each 15-20 second interval in order to create a surging action.
4. Release the trigger. Allow water only to rinse the oil cooler for 1 minute. 5. Turn the water supply
OFF at the faucet. 6. Attach the air supply to the air valve on the tool. Dry out the system with air
for at least 2 minutes. Dry out the system longer than 2 minutes, if
moisture from the oil cooler line discharge hose is visible.
7. Connect the cooler feed pipe to the transmission. The cooler feed is the bottom connection at
the transmission. 8. If not already connected, attach the discharge hose to the cooler return pipe.
Place the hose into an appropriate drain container. 9. After filling the transmission with
DEXRON(R) III or DEXRON(R) IIE automatic transmission fluid, or equivalent, start the engine.
Run the
engine for 30 seconds. This removes any residual moisture from the oil cooler and the cooler
pipes, protects all the components from corrosion, and checks the flow rate through the cooler.
10. You should get a minimum of 1.9 liters (2 quarts) of transmission fluid during this 30 second
run. If the flow of fluid is insufficient, disconnect
the oil cooler feed line at the radiator and restart the engine.
11. If the flow is insufficient, inspect the transmission for cause. Inspect the cooler pipes and
fittings. Repeat the cooler flushing procedure. Replace
the cooler if the flow is still insufficient.
12. Remove the discharge hose. 13. Reconnect the cooler return pipe to the transmission. 14.
Refill the unit to the proper fluid level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6209
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Place a drain pan under the
transmission oil pan.
3. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and the sides only. 4. Loosen the rear oil pan bolts
approximately 4 turns.
NOTICE: Pry the oil pan down carefully in order to prevent damage to the transmission case or the
oil pan sealing surfaces.
5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry in order to allow the oil to drain. 6. Inspect the
oil color. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure at Testing and Inspection. See: Testing
and Inspection 7. Remove the remaining oil pan bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan.
9. Remove the oil pan gasket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6210
10. Remove the oil filter. 11. Remove the oil filter O-ring seal. 12. Inspect the O-ring seal. The
O-ring seal may be stuck in the case. 13. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Clean the
transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and allow to air dry.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 36850 TRANSJEL(R) Transmission Assembly Lubricant
NOTICE: Use TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent during assembly in order to retain checkballs
or to lubricate components. Greases other than the recommended assembly lube will change the
transmission fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.
1. Coat the seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent. 2. Install a new seal into the case. 3.
Install a new filter into the case.
4. Install a new oil pan gasket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6211
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Install the oil pan bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 in. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
7. Inspect the oil pan bolts and the washers. 8. Use adhesive and sealant compound GM P/N
12345382, or equivalent. 9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 11. Adjust the cold oil level
reading for the initial fill. Do not overfill. 12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - PWM Filter Removal
Fluid Filter - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - PWM Filter Removal
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-016
Date: September, 2000
Subject: Removal Of The PWM Filter From The Spacer Plate - 4T40E/4T45E Automatic
Transmission
Models: 1998-2000
Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu
1998-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2000 Oldsmobile Alero
1998-2000 Pontiac Sunfire
1999-2000 Pontiac Grand Am
with 4T40E or 4T45E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN4, MN5)
The PWM filter (Item 17), which snaps into the spacer plate, has been eliminated. The use of a
filter in this location is redundant. The PWM has its own filter located on the solenoid. Pictures of
the spacer plate and the filter location on the spacer plate as shown.
The PWM filter which was located in the spacer plate has been removed from GMSPO inventory
and is no longer available.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Filter - A/T: Service and Repair 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
A/T Fluid/Filter Changing (Remove)
PREPARATION
^
Tools Required J 35944-A Oil Cooler and Line Flusher
- J 35944-20 Cooler Flushing Fluid
Whenever you remove a transmission for service, do a transmission oil cooler flushing. It is
essential to flush the oil cooler under the following conditions: ^
After a major overhaul
^ Suspected contamination
^ Pump or torque converter replacement For complete transmission service, perform the flush
procedure after the overhauled or replacement assembly is installed in the vehicle.
1. Remove the fill cap on the J 35944-A. 2. Fill the can with 0.6 liter (20-21 ounces) of J 35944-20,
or equivalent, cooler flushing fluid. Do not overfill. If you overfill, the tool will need
recharging with air before the backflush.
3. Follow the manufacturer's suggested procedures for proper handling of the solution.
IMPORTANT: Shop air supply must not exceed 825 kPa (120 psi), and must be equipped with a
water/oil filter.
4. Secure the fill cap, and pressurize the flusher can with shop air to 550-700 kPa (80-100 psi). 5.
Connect the J 35944-A to the transmission end of the transmission cooler pipe that feeds the
bottom fitting of the oil cooler. 6. Connect the discharge hose to the top oil cooler pipe. 7. Clip the
discharge hose to the oil drain container. 8. With the water valve on the tool in the OFF position,
connect the water hose from the water supply to the tool. 9. Turn ON the water supply at the
faucet.
INITIAL FLUSHING
IMPORTANT: If water does not flow through the cooler the system is completely plugged. Do not
complete the flushing procedure. Replace the cooler and/or the cooler pipes as required.
1. Switch the water valve on the tool to the ON position. Allow the water to flow through the oil
cooler for 10 seconds in order to remove the
transmission fluid in the system.
2. Switch the water valve on the tool to the OFF position. Clip the discharge hose onto a 5 gallon
pail with a lid. If no lid is available, place a shop
towel over the end of the hose in order to prevent splash. The discharge will foam vigorously when
you introduce solution into the water stream.
3. Switch the water valve on the tool to the ON position. Depress the trigger that mixes the flushing
solution into the water flow. Use the bale clip on
the handle in order to hold down the trigger.
4. Flush the oil cooler with water and solution for 2 minutes. During the flush, attach the air supply
to the air valve on the tool for 3-5 seconds after
every 15-20 second interval in order to create a surging action.
5. Release the trigger. Switch the water valve on the tool to the OFF position. 6. Disconnect both
hoses from the oil cooler pipes.
BACKFLUSH
1. Connect the hoses to the oil cooler pipes in order to perform a backflush. 2. Switch water valve
on the tool to the ON position. Depress the trigger in order to mix the flushing solution with the
water flow. Use the bale clip
on the handle to hold down the trigger.
3. Flush the oil cooler with water and solution for 2 minutes. During this flush, attach the air supply
to the air valve on the tool for 3-5 seconds after
each 15-20 second interval in order to create a surging action.
4. Release the trigger. Allow water only to rinse the oil cooler for 1 minute. 5. Turn the water supply
OFF at the faucet. 6. Attach the air supply to the air valve on the tool. Dry out the system with air
for at least 2 minutes. Dry out the system longer than 2 minutes, if
moisture from the oil cooler line discharge hose is visible.
7. Connect the cooler feed pipe to the transmission. The cooler feed is the bottom connection at
the transmission. 8. If not already connected, attach the discharge hose to the cooler return pipe.
Place the hose into an appropriate drain container. 9. After filling the transmission with
DEXRON(R) III or DEXRON(R) IIE automatic transmission fluid, or equivalent, start the engine.
Run the
engine for 30 seconds. This removes any residual moisture from the oil cooler and the cooler
pipes, protects all the components from corrosion, and checks the flow rate through the cooler.
10. You should get a minimum of 1.9 liters (2 quarts) of transmission fluid during this 30 second
run. If the flow of fluid is insufficient, disconnect
the oil cooler feed line at the radiator and restart the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6218
11. If the flow is insufficient, inspect the transmission for cause. Inspect the cooler pipes and
fittings. Repeat the cooler flushing procedure. Replace
the cooler if the flow is still insufficient.
12. Remove the discharge hose. 13. Reconnect the cooler return pipe to the transmission. 14.
Refill the unit to the proper fluid level.
A/T Fluid/Filter Changing (Install)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the oil level indicator.
2. Remove the nut or bolt that retains the fill tube to the mounting bracket. 3. Raise and suitably
support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 4. Place a drain pan under the transmission.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6219
5. Loosen the filler tube from the transmission. 6. Remove the filler tube seal. 7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Pull the tube out of the vehicle from the top.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the filler tube through the top of the vehicle. 2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 3. Install the filler tube seal into the transmission. Lubricate the seal with
DEXRON(R) IIE, or DEXRON(R) III. 4. Install the filler tube into the transmission. 5. Lower the
vehicle.
6. Install the nut that retains the tube to the mounting bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6220
7. Install the oil level indicator. 8. Adjust the oil level.
A/T Fluid/Filter Changing (F/F Changing)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Place A drain . pan under the
transmission Oil Pan. 3. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and the sides only. 4. Loosen the
rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns. 5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry in order
to allow the oil to drain.
NOTICE: Pry the oil pan down carefully in order to prevent damage to the transmission case or the
Oil Pan sealing surfaces.
6. Inspect the oil color. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure. 7. Remove the remaining
oil pan bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6221
9. Remove the oil pan gasket.
10. Remove the oil filter. 11. Remove the oil filter O-ring seal. 12. Inspect the O-ring seal. The
O-ring seal may be stuck in the case. 13. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Clean the
transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and allow to air dry.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 36850 TRANSJEL(R) Transmission Assembly Lubricant
NOTICE: Use TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent during assembly in order to retain checkballs
or to lubricate components. Greases other than the recommended assembly lube will change the
transmission fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.
1. Coat the seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent. 2. Install a new seal into the case. 3.
Install a new filter into the case.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6222
4. Install a new oil pan gasket.
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Install the oil pan bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
7. Inspect the oil pan bolts and the washers. 8. Use adhesive and sealant compound GM P/N
12345382, or equivalent. 9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 11. Adjust the cold oil level
reading for the initial fill. Do not overfill. 12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6223
Fluid Filter - A/T: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Oil Filter and Seal Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Drain the transmission oil.
Refer to A/T Fluid/Filter Changing. 3. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and the oil pan. 4.
Remove the gasket. 5. Remove the oil filter assembly.
6. Remove the filter neck seal from the transmission case. Use a small screwdriver. Do not to score
the case during removal. Discard the filter seal, it
is not reusable.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6224
1. Install the new oil filter neck seal. Tap gently and evenly on the seal in order to prevent damage
to the case bore or the seal.
2. Install the new oil filter. 3. Install the oil pan gasket and the oil pan. Use a new gasket if the
sealing rings are damaged. 4. Install the oil pan attaching bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 7. Inspect
the oil pan gasket for leaks.
A/T Fluid/Filter Changing
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Place a drain pan under the
transmission oil pan. 3. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and the sides only. 4. Loosen the
rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns.
NOTICE: Pry the oil pan down carefully in order to prevent damage to the transmission case or the
oil pan sealing surfaces.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6225
5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry in order to allow the oil to drain. 6. Inspect the
oil color. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure (Diagnosis). 7. Remove the remaining oil
pan bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan.
9. Remove the oil pan gasket.
10. Remove the oil filter. 11. Remove the oil filter O-ring seal. 12. Inspect the O-ring seal. The
O-ring seal may be stuck in the case. 13. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Clean the
transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and allow to air dry.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 36850 TRANSJEL(R) Transmission Assembly Lubricant
NOTICE: Use TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent during assembly in order to retain checkballs
or to lubricate components. Greases other than the recommended assembly lube will change the
transmission fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6226
1. Coat the seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent. 2. Install a new seal into the case. 3.
Install a new filter into the case.
4. Install a new oil pan gasket.
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Install the oil pan bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6227
7. Inspect the oil pan bolts and the washers. 8. Use adhesive and sealant compound GM P/N
12345382, or equivalent. 9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil. 11. Adjust the cold oil level
reading for the initial fill. Do not overfill. 12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line Fitting
Fluid Line/Hose: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line
Fitting
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-017B
Date: November 25, 2008
Subject: Information on 4T65-E MN7, M15, M76, MN3 Automatic Transmission Case, Cooler
Fitting and Torque Converter Drain Back Check Ball Change
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
with one of the HYDRA-MATIC(R) Automatic Transmissions shown above.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-017A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Effective with Julian date 4019 (January 19, 2004), the 4T65E transaxle cases and cooler fittings
have changed and are not interchangeable with past models. The technician may find that when
replacing the inlet or outlet transmission cooler lines, the new lines cannot be connected to the
transmission.
A change to the transmission cooler line fittings was implemented in production on February 1,
2004. The cooler line fittings were changed to a design with a longer lead in pilot (1). The cooler
line fittings with the longer lead in pilot will not fit on models built before February 1, 2004.
The longer lead in pilot fittings (1) (9/16-18 UNF) have replaced the shorter lead in pilot fittings (2)
(3/8-18 NPSF w/check ball & 1/4-18 NPSF).
If the transmission cooler lines will not connect, then replace them with the following cooler line
fittings as appropriate with the older, shorter lead in pilot design:
^ For vehicles built prior to February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Inlet Hose, P/N
20793004.
^ For vehicles built after February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Inlet Hose, second
design P/N 15264588.
^ For vehicles built prior to February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Outlet Hose, P/N
20793005.
^ For vehicles built after February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Outlet Hose, second
design P/N 15264589.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line Fitting > Page
6232
The torque specification has changed for the fittings to case. The torque has changed from 38 Nm
(28 lb ft) to 32 Nm (23 lb ft).
Tighten
Tighten the new cooler fittings to 32 Nm (23 lb ft).
The converter drain back check ball (420C) has been removed from the cooler line fitting and is
now located in the channel plate.
If you get a concern of no movement in the morning or after sitting for several hours, the cooler
check ball should be inspected.
The best way to determine where the check ball is located is to look at the cooler line fittings. The
old fittings are different sizes (3/8-18 NPSF & 1/4-18 NPSF) and would contain the cooler check
ball. The new fittings are the same size as each other (9/16-18 UNF) and do not have a cooler
check ball.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line Fitting > Page
6233
Fluid Line/Hose: Technical Service Bulletins Transaxle Cooler Line - Seal Installation Procedure
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 87-71-67
Date: June, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Transaxle Cooler Line Seal Installation Procedure
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999
Oldsmobile Alero 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire 1999 Pontiac Grand Am with HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E
Transaxle (RPO MN4) or 4T45-E Transaxle RPO MN5) and 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1 L, 3.4L Engine VINs 4,
T, M, E - RPOs LN2, LD91 L821 LA1)
This bulletin contains information regarding the installation of cooler line seals into the case of
either a 4T40-E or 4T45-E transaxle.
Seal Installation Procedure (Figure 1)
To prevent automatic transmission fluid from leaking from the cooler line seals (49) after installing
new seals, perform the following procedure.
Important:
Only GM Goodwrench DEXRON(R) III automatic transmission fluid should be used as part of
warranty repair of GM Powertrain automatic transmissions.
Notice:
Failure to lubricate the cooler line seals (49) with automatic transmission fluid DEXRON(R) III,
before installing the cooler line pipes into the seals,
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line Fitting > Page
6234
may cause damage to the seals.
1. Lubricate the inside surface of both new cooler line seals (49) with automatic transmission fluid
DEXRON(R) III.
2. Place a new cooler line seal (49) into the case bore.
3. Install the cooler line seal installer tool J 41239-1 on the transmission case (51) at the cooler line
bracket bolt hole.
4. Press the new cooler line seal (49) in by tightening the seal pressing bolt on the cooler line seal
installer tool J 41239-1 until the seal bottoms out in the case bore.
5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the second cooler line seal (49).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Line/Hose: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Line Pressure Take-off ........................................................................................................................
....................................................... 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.) Cooler Pipes At Case .......................................
......................................................................................................................................... 22 Nm (16
ft. lbs.) Cooler Pipes At Radiator .........................................................................................................
................................................................. 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6237
Fluid Line/Hose: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Cooler Pipes At Case ..........................................................................................................................
.................................................... 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) Cooler Pipes At Radiator .................................
.............................................................................................................................. 20-40 Nm (15-30
ft. lbs.) Oil Feed Tube Bolts .................................................................................................................
........................................................... 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Line/Hose: Service and Repair 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
NOTICE: Allow sufficient clearance around transmission oil cooler pipes in order to prevent
damage or wear which may cause fluid loss.
If replacement of the transmission oil cooler pipes is required, use only double-wrapped and brazed
steel pipe meeting GM specification 123M, or equivalent. The pipe should be double-flared.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6240
Fluid Line/Hose: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Oil Cooler Pipe Seals Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^
Tools Required J 41239-2 Cooler Pipe Seal Remover
- J 6125-1B Slide Hammer
- J 6471 Slide Hammer Adapter
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the transmission oil
cooler lines from the transmission. Refer to A/T Oil Cooler Pipes Replacement. 3. Install the J
41239-2 into the cooler line seal.
4. Remove the oil cooler line seals. Use the J 6125-1B and the J 6471.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 41239-1 Cooler Pipe Seal Installer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6241
1. Install the J 41239-1 on the transmission case using cooler line bracket bolt.
2. Install a new seal in the case bore. 3. Press the new seals in. Tighten the cooler line bracket bolt
until the seal bottoms out in the case bore. 4. Install the transmission oil cooler lines. Refer to A/T
Oil Cooler Pipes Replacement. 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Inspect the fluid level.
A/T Oil Cooler Pipes Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the transmission oil
cooler lines from the radiator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6242
3. Remove the transmission oil cooler line bracket bolt from the transmission.
4. Remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6243
2. Install the transmission oil cooler line bracket bolt to the transmission.
^ Tighten the bracket bolt to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the transmission oil cooler lines to the radiator.
^ Tighten the pipe fitting to 20-40 Nm (115-30 ft. lbs.).
4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Inspect the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Pan: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Oil Pan Bolts ........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 10 Nm (89 in.lb) Oil Pan And Valve Body Cover .........................
............................................................................................................................................ 11 Nm (8
ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6248
Fluid Pan: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Oil Pan Attaching Bolts ........................................................................................................................
..................................................... 14 Nm (124 in.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6249
Fluid Pan: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Loosen the oil pan bolts. 3.
Drain the oil. Use a suitable container to catch the transmission oil fluid. 4. Remove the oil pan
attaching bolts.
5. Remove the oil pan.
6. Remove the oil pan gasket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6250
1. Install the oil pan gasket. Use a new gasket if the sealing ribs are damaged.
2. Install the oil pan.
3. Install the oil pan attaching bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Refill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON(R) III. 6. Inspect
the oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pressure
Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch (S) .............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pressure
Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6255
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch Assembly Bolts
......................................................................................................................................................... 12
Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pressure
Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6256
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring
Fluid Pump: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-006
Date: February 11, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: 4L65-E, 4L60-E, 4L60 and 200-4R Automatic Transmission Oil Pump Spring First and
Second Design Identification
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2004 HUMMER H2
with 4L65-E, 4L60-E, 4L60 or 200-4R Automatic Transmission
The purpose of this bulletin is to identify the oil pump spring usage for the two different pump
designs. Manufacturing of the first design oil pump springs ended December 15, 2003.
Manufacturing of the second design oil pump spring began December 16, 2003
The first design oil pump springs (206) and (207) DO NOT have any identification markings. The
first design springs (206) and (207) use an inner and outer spring, two springs.
The second design oil pump spring (245) is identified with tapered ends on the spring (245) as
shown above. The second design spring (245) is a single spring.
When servicing either (first design or second design) oil pump body, use the new single oil pump
spring (245) with tapered ends.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring > Page 6261
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6262
Fluid Pump: Specifications
Pump Cover To Case Cover ...............................................................................................................
...................................................... 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) Pump Cover To Valve Body ............................
........................................................................................................................................... 11 Nm (8
ft. lbs.) Pump Cover To Valve Body ....................................................................................................
................................................................... 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Governor, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications
Governor: Specifications
Speedometer Driven Gear To Governor Cover
....................................................................................................................................... 9 Nm (75
inch lbs.) Governor Cover To Case .....................................................................................................
....................................................................... 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Governor, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6266
Governor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the Vehicle Speed
Sensor (VSS) assembly. Refer to Vehicle Speed Sensor Replacement. 3. Remove the governor. 4.
Remove the governor compression ring.
5. Remove the governor shaft seal. 6. Remove the governor shaft bushing and the screen.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the governor shaft bushing and the screen. 2. Install the governor shaft seal.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Governor, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6267
3. Install the governor compression ring. 4. Install the governor. 5. Install the Vehicle Speed Sensor
(VSS) assembly. Refer to Vehicle Speed Sensor Replacement. 6. Lower the vehicle. 7. Adjust the
oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Hydraulic Thermo
Valve, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Hydraulic Thermo Valve: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the transmission mount. Refer to A/T Mount Replacement (Front) and A/T Mount
Replacement (Rear). 2. Remove the transmission mount bracket. 3. Remove the valve body cover.
Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 4. Remove the case cover. Refer to Case Cover
Replacement. 5. Inspect the thermo element washers. 6. Inspect the thermo element. 7. Inspect
the thermo element plate.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the case cover. Refer to Case Cover Replacement 2. Install the valve body cover. Refer to
Valve Body Cover Replacement. 3. Install the transmission mount bracket. 4. Install the
transmission mount. Refer to A/T Mount Replacement (Front) and A/T Mount Replacement (Rear).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
Output Shaft: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-042F
Date: February 05, 2010
Subject: Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2005-2009 Saab 9-7X with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32,
M70)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2010 model year and 4L70E transmission.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042E (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Important For 2005 model year fullsize utilities and pickups, refer to Corporate Bulletin
05-07-30-012.
Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.
During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift
can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same
torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band
applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in
the transfer case.
This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6275
Output Shaft: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 38868 Shaft Removal Tool
- J 41227 Axle Shaft Sleeve Removal Tool
- J 6125-1B Slide Hammer
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the drive axle
assembly. Refer to Wheel Drive Shafts Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts. 3. Remove the stub
shaft from the transmission. Use the J 38868 and the J 6125-1B.
4. Remove the snap rings from the stub shaft. Discard the snap rings, these are not reusable.
5. Remove the sleeve from the stub shaft. Use the J 41227. 6. Inspect the sleeve for excessive
wear, scratches or nicks that may cause a leak or damage to the seal portion. Replace the sleeve if
it appears to be
damaged.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6276
^ Tools Required J 41228 Stub Shaft Sleeve Installer
1. Install a new sleeve on the stub shaft. Use the J 41228. Install the J 41228 so that the collar is in
the snap ring groove.
2. Install the two new snap rings on the stub shaft. 3. Add Polyurea grease to the splines of the
output shaft in order to prevent damage to the shaft splines during vehicle operation.
4. Install the stub shaft into the transmission assembly. 5. Install the drive axle assembly. Refer to
Wheel Drive Shafts Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts. 6. Lower the vehicle. 7. Inspect the shaft
sleeve for leaks. 8. Verify the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Lock Cable,
A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Parking Lock Cable: Adjustments 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
PARK LOCK CABLE ADJUSTMENT
1. Place the floor shift lever in the P (Park) position. 2. Turn the column lock cylinder to the Lock
position. 3. Unseat the body housing lock from the body housing.
IMPORTANT: ^
No gap may exist between the metal terminal stop and the protruding end of the blue plastic collar.
If a gap does exist between the terminal stop and the collar, adjust the position of the park lock
cable.
^ The blue plastic collar must be flush or recessed about 1 mm (0.04 inch) within the ignition park
lock housing. If the blue plastic collar is not in the proper location, adjust the position of the park
lock cable.
4. Adjust the outer cable conduit in order to obtain the proper location for the white plastic housing
in the ignition switch. Ensure that the body
housing is still attached to the shift control mounting bracket.
5. Seat the body housing lock in the body housing while holding the outer cable conduit in position.
6. Inspect the park/lock control cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Lock Cable,
A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6281
Parking Lock Cable: Adjustments 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
PARK LOCK CABLE ADJUSTMENT
1. Place the floor shift lever in the P (Park) position. 2. Turn the column lock cylinder to the Lock
position. 3. Unseat the body housing lock from the body housing.
IMPORTANT: ^
No gap may exist between the metal terminal stop and the protruding end of the white plastic
collar. If a gap does exist between the terminal stop and the collar, adjust the position of the park
lock cable.
^ The white plastic collar must be flush or recessed about 1 mm (0.04 inch) within the ignition park
lock housing. If the white plastic collar is not in the proper location, adjust the position of the park
lock cable.
4. Adjust the outer cable conduit in order to obtain the proper location for the white plastic housing
in the ignition switch. Ensure that the body
housing is still attached to the shift control mounting bracket.
5. Seat the body housing lock in the body housing while holding the outer cable conduit in position.
6. Inspect the park/lock control cable. Refer to Park Lock Cable Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Lock Cable,
A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6282
Parking Lock Cable: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the console. Refer to Console Replacement (Chevrolet) or Console Replacement
(Pontiac) in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators.
3. Remove the left sound insulator. Refer to Insulator Replacement - IP in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Warning Indicators. 4. Remove the knee bolster. 5. Loosen the lower steering column
bracket bolts. 6. Lower the steering column. 7. Place the transmission shift lever in the P (Park)
position. 8. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
IMPORTANT: Do not proceed to the next step with the key in any other position.
9. Insert a screwdriver blade into the slot provided in the ignition switch inhibitor.
10. Depress the cable latch. Pull the control cable from the inhibitor.
11. Push the cable connector lock button at the shifter base to the up position. 12. Snap the cable
from the park/lock lever pin. 13. Depress the two cable latches. Remove the control cable latches
from the automatic transmission control. 14. Remove the control cable clips.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Lock Cable,
A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6283
1. Ensure that the cable lock button is in the up position. Place the shift lever in P (Park).
IMPORTANT: When installing a new park/lock cable, keep the shipping cover gauge attached until
you are instructed to detach it. The shipping cover gauge will aid in the proper positioning of the
cable.
2. Snap the control cable connector into the automatic transmission control. 3. Place the ignition
key in the RUN position.
4. Snap the control cable into the inhibitor housing until the snap lock is seated.
IMPORTANT: Do not insert the cable with the key in any other position.
5. Remove the shipping cover gauge. 6. Turn the key to the LOCK position.
7. Snap the control cable end onto the shift park/lock lever pin. 8. Push the cable connector hose
forward in order to remove any slack. 9. With no load applied to the connector nose, snap the cable
connector lock button down.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Lock Cable,
A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6284
10. Raise and connect the steering column.
IMPORTANT: Test for proper operation of the park/lock control cable before installing the steering
column to the instrument panel.
11. Tighten the lower steering column bracket bolts. 12. Install the knee bolster. 13. Install the left
sound insulator. Refer to Insulator Replacement - IP in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators. 14. Install the console. Refer to Console Replacement (Chevrolet) or Console
Replacement (Pontiac) in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: ^
No gap may exist between the metal terminal stop and the protruding end of the white plastic
collar. If a gap does exist between the terminal stop and the collar, adjust the position of the park
lock cable.
^ The white plastic collar must be flush or recessed about 1 mm (0.04 inch) within the ignition park
lock housing. If the white plastic collar is not in the proper location, adjust the position of the park
lock cable.
1. Ensure that the terminal stop on the column end of the park/lock cable is touching the white
collar that protrudes from the ignition switch.
Complete the following steps in order to inspect: 1.1. Turn the column lock cylinder to the LOCK
position. 1.2. Place the floor shift lever into the P (Park) position. 1.3. Verify the correct position of
the terminal stop.
2. Ensure that the column lock cylinder remains in the Lock position. 3. Ensure that the floor shift
lever remains in the P (Park) position. 4. Gently depress the park/lock button on the floor shift lever
until resistance is felt. 5. Verify that the white plastic collar travels no more than 1.5 mm (0.06 inch).
The floor shift lever must not come out of P (Park). 6. With the column lock cylinder On, verify
proper movement of the floor shift lever through all of the gear selections. 7. While moving the floor
shift lever through all of the drive gears, verify that the column lock cylinder cannot be turned to the
Lock position.
IMPORTANT: Five inspections are used in order to verify proper installation. The installation must
pass all 5 tests. If one or more of the tests fail, adjust the park/lock cable. Refer to Park Lock Cable
Adjustment.
8. Ensure that the key can be removed with the column lock cylinder in the Lock position and the
floor shift lever in the P (Park) position.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Pawl, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Grinding/Growling Noise in Park on Incline
Parking Pawl: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Grinding/Growling Noise in Park on Incline
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-07-30-030F
Date: May 01, 2008
Subject: Grinding and/or Growling Noise in Park on Incline
Models: 2009 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic Front Wheel Drive (FWD) Automatic Transmissions
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
99-07-30-030E (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Service Information
Owners of some vehicles equipped with Hydra-Matic front wheel drive transaxles may comment on
a grinding and/or growling noise that is noticeable when standing in PARK on a hill or slope with
the engine running and the parking brake not applied. Under these conditions, the weight of the
vehicle puts a load on the parking pawl which can create a "ground-out" path through the drive
axles, front struts, springs and spring towers. Normal engine noise can be transmitted to the
passenger compartment through the "ground-out" path.
Owners concerned about this condition should be advised to apply the parking brake prior to
shifting into PARK. This is the recommended procedure described in the Owners Manual. Applying
the parking brake first will put the load of the vehicle on the rear brakes rather than on the parking
pawl.
Refer the owner to the appropriate Owner Manual for additional details and instructions.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Pawl, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6289
Parking Pawl: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the oil pan and the oil
pan gasket. 3. Remove the oil pan filter and the seal. 4. Remove the transmission fluid level
indicator stop bracket.
5. Remove the spring shaft retainer.
6. Remove the parking pawl actuator bracket. 7. Remove the clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Pawl, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6290
8. Remove the manual shift shaft pin. 9. Remove the manual valve with the retainer rod.
10. Remove the manual valve pin.
11. Remove the parking pawl spring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the parking pawl spring.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Pawl, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6291
2. Install the manual valve pin. 3. Install the manual valve with the retainer rod. 4. Install the manual
shift shaft pin.
5. Install the clip. 6. Install the parking pawl actuator bracket.
7. Install the spring shaft retainer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Pawl, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6292
8. Install the transmission fluid level indicator stop bracket. 9. Install the oil pan filter,and the seal.
10. Install the oil pan and the gasket. 11. Lower the vehicle. 12. Adjust the oil level. 13. Inspect the
shift linkage.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating
Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating
Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6301
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating
Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6302
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure
Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure
Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6308
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure
Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6309
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6310
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid
Leaking From A/T Vent
Seals and Gaskets: Customer Interest A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid
Leaking From A/T Vent > Page 6319
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: >
01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
Seals and Gaskets: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: >
01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent > Page 6325
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: > 83-64-16 > Jun >
98 > Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
Positive: All Technical Service Bulletins Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-16
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Weak or Discharged Battery, Slow Starting, GEN or MIL Lamp On, Various Driveability
Symptoms (Repair B+ Stud and/or Wiring on Starter)
Models: 1997-98 Buick Skylark 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Achieva,
Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs
LN2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners may report the battery is weak or discharged; the starting motor may turn slowly; the
generator is not charging and/or the generator Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may be on,
possibly intermittent. Driveability symptoms may also be experienced.
Cause
If following steps 1, 2 or 3 of strategy based diagnostics did not reveal the cause, the generator
output and battery positive cable terminal at the starting motor (CKT 1 - VIN T and M; CKT 2 - VIN
4) may be loose, causing a high resistance in the battery positive circuit from the generator to the
battery.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the starting motor B+ stud, wire, ring terminals and nut. Clean each mating
surface and replace damaged parts. Tighten positive battery B+ cable to starter solenoid nut to 12
N.m (106 lb in.). Refer to the "Starting Motor Replacement" portion in the Engine Electrical Section
of the Service Manual.
Recharge and load test the battery if required. Refer to "Battery Charging" in the Engine Electrical
Section of the Service Manual.
Important:
The generator and battery are not damaged and should not require replacement.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6480 Wiring and/or Use published
Connector, labor operation
Starter - Repair time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: > Page 6331
Seals and Gaskets: By Symptom
Technical Service Bulletin # 01-07-30-032E Date: 080929
A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: > Page 6332
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Technical Service Bulletin # 01-07-30-032E Date: 080929
A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: > Page 6333
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6334
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 6125-IB Slide Hammer
- J 23129 Axle Seal Remover
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the tire and the wheel
assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal in Tires and Wheels. 3. Remove the inner splash shield. 4.
Remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Refer to Steering Knuckle Replacement in
Suspension. 5. Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint
Replacement in Suspension. 6. Remove the drive axle. Refer to Wheel Drive Shafts Replacement
in Wheel Drive Shafts. 7. Remove the seals. Use the J 23129 and the J 6125-1B.
IMPORTANT: Do not damage the seal bore.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 34115 Axle Seal Installer
1. Install the new oil seals. Use the J 34115. 2. Lubricate the seal lip with a light wipe of
transmission oil. 3. Install the drive axle into the transmission case. Refer to Wheel Drive Shafts
Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
IMPORTANT: Carefully guide the axle shaft past the lip seal. Do not allow the shaft splines to
contact any portion of the seal lip surface because damage may occur.
4. Install the ball joint to the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement in
Suspension. 5. Install the tie rod to the steering knuckle. Refer to Steering Knuckle Replacement in
Suspension. 6. Seat the drive axle into the transmission case. 7. Install the tire and the wheel
assembly. Refer to Wheel Installation in Tires and Wheels. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9. Inspect the oil
seal for leaks.
10. Adjust the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch (S) .............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page
6340
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch Assembly Bolts
......................................................................................................................................................... 12
Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6341
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6350
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6351
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6357
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6358
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit Function/Installation
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Trap Resistant Trunk Kit Function/Installation
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-66-002A
Date: January, 2000
Subject: Trap Resistant Rear Compartment (Trunk) Kit
Models: 1990-2000 Passenger Cars with Rear Compartments Except: 1990-1991 Buick Reatta
2000
Buick LeSabre
1990-1993 Cadillac Allante, Fleetwood Brougham 1997-2000 Cadillac Seville 2000
Cadillac Deville
1990 Chevrolet Caprice
1990-1991 Chevrolet Cavalier 1990-1996 Chevrolet Beretta 1990-2000 Chevrolet Metro, Prizm
1998-2000 Chevrolet Corvette 2000
Chevrolet Impala
1990-1992 Oldsmobile Toronado/Trofeo 1990-1991 Pontiac Sunbird 1990-1993 Pontiac LeMans
2000
Pontiac Bonneville
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models and new part numbers. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-O8-66-002 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The purpose of this bulletin is to inform dealership personnel about the Trap Resistant Rear
Compartment (Trunk) Kit, including the system function, necessary vehicle modifications and part
numbers required to install the kit.
The Trap Resistant Rear Compartment kit is composed of three main system components; one of
which (the Rear Seat Tether), may or may not be needed, depending on the vehicle being retrofit.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit Function/Installation > Page 6364
The first component of the kit is the illuminated Interior Release Handle (1). The Release Handle is
mounted inside the rear compartment to the deck lid. This handle was designed so that a small
child trapped in the rear compartment could use it to open the deck lid. The handle operates the
deck lid latch mechanically, but is illuminated with two LED's when the deck lid is closed. The
handle remains illuminated for a period of about one hour after the deck lid is closed. The LED's
create a small parasitic load that will not drain the vehicle battery with normal usage.
The second component of the kit is the Trap Resistant Latch (2). the Trap Resistant Latch is a
modified deck lid latch designed to help prevent a child from unintentionally closing and latching the
deck lid. The Trap Resistant Latch opens the rear compartment normally through all current means
(key, RKE or passenger compartment release) but cannot be re-latched without the user
performing a reset function. This reset function consists of pushing up on a small knob (3), while
simultaneously pushing a slide mechanism to the right (4). Once the slide mechanism is fully
pushed over, the small knob can be released. This function is a simple on-hand operation for an
adult, but is difficult for a young child to perform. If the latch is not enabled, the deck lid will not
latch and the rear compartment will not close.
The third component is the Rear Seat Tether Kit. If the vehicle is equipped with a pass-through to
the rear compartment and the folding rear seat can be unlatched from within the passenger
compartment without the use of a key or other unlocking feature, then a Rear Seat Tether must be
installed. This tether helps prevent a child from gaining access to the rear compartment of a vehicle
from the passenger compartment by allowing a secondary lock of the seatback. The Rear Seat
Tether employs one or two tethers (one per folding seatback), each permanently connected to a
T-handle anchor mounted in the rear compartment. To lock the folding seatback, the user can
partially fold the seatback and attach the tether to another T-handle anchor mounted to the
seatback. When the tether is affixed to both T-handle anchors, the seat cannot be folded down. To
fold down the seatback, the tether must be removed from the anchor attached to the seatback.
Important:
Installation of the Trap Resistant Latch on some vehicles may require sheet metal and/or trim
modifications to the rear compartment striker area. These modifications should be communicated
with the customer prior to installations. Also, installation of the Trap Resistant Latch requires a rear
compartment lid "ajar" switch. Prior to ordering the Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit, inspect
the old deck lid latch to see if it is equipped with an "ajar" switch. If the vehicle is not equipped with
this switch, P/N 12506174 must be ordered.
After completing the Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit installation, provide the customer with
the supplemental Owner's Manual insert included in the kit and demonstrate the system function.
This program is specially structured for a single purchase price to the owner. The owner is
responsible to pay a maximum of $50.00 U.S.; $80.00 Canadian for parts and labor to install the
complete Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit and Rear Seat Tether(s), if required.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit Function/Installation > Page 6365
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Labor Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 83-15-22 > Dec > 98 > Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to
Unlock/Open
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to
Unlock/Open
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-22
Date: December, 1998
Subject: Rear Compartment (Trunk) Lid Latch Difficult to Unlock/Open (Inspect/Replace Cable and
Secure with Strap)
Models: 1995-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-99 Pontiac Sunfire without RPO AUO (Remote Keyless
Entry System)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the rear compartment (trunk) lid is difficult to unlock with the
key.
Cause
The tab on the cable assembly that secures it to the latch assembly may have broken. When this
occurs, the cable may disengage from the latch.
Correction
Using the following procedure, inspect the tab on the cable assembly for signs of breakage.
Replace the cable assembly if the tab is broken. If the tab is not broken, reinstall the cable to the
latch. Secure the cable to the latch assembly with plastic strap.
Service Procedure
1. Open the rear compartment lid to access the latch on the inside.
2. Remove the fastener securing the cable to the latch (see Figure 1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 83-15-22 > Dec > 98 > Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to
Unlock/Open > Page 6370
3. Inspect the tab on the backside of the cable for signs of breakage (see Figure 2).
^ If the tab has NOT disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is in acceptable
condition and it is NOT necessary to replace the cable assembly. Reinstall the fastener that
secures the cable assembly to the latch.
^ If the tab HAS disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is broken and the
cable assembly must be replaced with a new cable, P/N 22606550. See the appropriate Service
Manual for information on replacing the cable assembly.
4. Using one (1) plastic strap, P/N 12355066, secure the cable portion of the assembly to the latch
as shown in Figure 1.
5. Trim off excess strap material.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 83-15-15 > Aug > 98 > Rear Lid Latch - Revised Procedure for
Replacement
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Lid Latch - Revised Procedure for
Replacement
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-15
Date: August, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 10-8 - Revised Remove and Install Procedure for Rear Compartment Lid Latch
Assembly to Add Spacer
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
This bulletin is being issued to revise the remove and install procedure for rear compartment lid
latch assembly (to add spacer for convertible only) in Section 10-8 of the Service Manual.
Rear compartment Lid Latch Assembly Remove or Disconnect
1. Rear compartment lid latch cable assembly.
2. Unclip cable door at top of rear compartment lock release box.
3. Rear compartment lid remote release cable from lock release box.
4. Rear compartment lid latch assembly bolts.
5. Rear compartment lid latch assembly.
6. Rear compartment lid latch assembly spacer (convertible only).
Install or Connect
1. Rear compartment lid latch assembly spacer (convertible only).
2. Rear compartment lid latch assembly.
3. Rear compartment lid latch assembly bolts.
4. Rear compartment lid remote release cable to lock release box.
5. Clip cable door at top of rear compartment lock release box.
6. Rear compartment lid latch cable assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit Function/Installation > Page 6380
The first component of the kit is the illuminated Interior Release Handle (1). The Release Handle is
mounted inside the rear compartment to the deck lid. This handle was designed so that a small
child trapped in the rear compartment could use it to open the deck lid. The handle operates the
deck lid latch mechanically, but is illuminated with two LED's when the deck lid is closed. The
handle remains illuminated for a period of about one hour after the deck lid is closed. The LED's
create a small parasitic load that will not drain the vehicle battery with normal usage.
The second component of the kit is the Trap Resistant Latch (2). the Trap Resistant Latch is a
modified deck lid latch designed to help prevent a child from unintentionally closing and latching the
deck lid. The Trap Resistant Latch opens the rear compartment normally through all current means
(key, RKE or passenger compartment release) but cannot be re-latched without the user
performing a reset function. This reset function consists of pushing up on a small knob (3), while
simultaneously pushing a slide mechanism to the right (4). Once the slide mechanism is fully
pushed over, the small knob can be released. This function is a simple on-hand operation for an
adult, but is difficult for a young child to perform. If the latch is not enabled, the deck lid will not
latch and the rear compartment will not close.
The third component is the Rear Seat Tether Kit. If the vehicle is equipped with a pass-through to
the rear compartment and the folding rear seat can be unlatched from within the passenger
compartment without the use of a key or other unlocking feature, then a Rear Seat Tether must be
installed. This tether helps prevent a child from gaining access to the rear compartment of a vehicle
from the passenger compartment by allowing a secondary lock of the seatback. The Rear Seat
Tether employs one or two tethers (one per folding seatback), each permanently connected to a
T-handle anchor mounted in the rear compartment. To lock the folding seatback, the user can
partially fold the seatback and attach the tether to another T-handle anchor mounted to the
seatback. When the tether is affixed to both T-handle anchors, the seat cannot be folded down. To
fold down the seatback, the tether must be removed from the anchor attached to the seatback.
Important:
Installation of the Trap Resistant Latch on some vehicles may require sheet metal and/or trim
modifications to the rear compartment striker area. These modifications should be communicated
with the customer prior to installations. Also, installation of the Trap Resistant Latch requires a rear
compartment lid "ajar" switch. Prior to ordering the Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit, inspect
the old deck lid latch to see if it is equipped with an "ajar" switch. If the vehicle is not equipped with
this switch, P/N 12506174 must be ordered.
After completing the Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit installation, provide the customer with
the supplemental Owner's Manual insert included in the kit and demonstrate the system function.
This program is specially structured for a single purchase price to the owner. The owner is
responsible to pay a maximum of $50.00 U.S.; $80.00 Canadian for parts and labor to install the
complete Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit and Rear Seat Tether(s), if required.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit Function/Installation > Page 6381
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Labor Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 83-15-22 > Dec > 98 > Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to
Unlock/Open > Page 6386
3. Inspect the tab on the backside of the cable for signs of breakage (see Figure 2).
^ If the tab has NOT disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is in acceptable
condition and it is NOT necessary to replace the cable assembly. Reinstall the fastener that
secures the cable assembly to the latch.
^ If the tab HAS disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is broken and the
cable assembly must be replaced with a new cable, P/N 22606550. See the appropriate Service
Manual for information on replacing the cable assembly.
4. Using one (1) plastic strap, P/N 12355066, secure the cable portion of the assembly to the latch
as shown in Figure 1.
5. Trim off excess strap material.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6391
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6392
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6395
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6396
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6397
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Transmission Speed Sensor: Specifications
Sensor, Output Speed (Stud)-M6 x 1.0 x 15.0 (Qty 1)
........................................................................................................................ 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Speed Sensor Housing To Case
.............................................................................................................................................................
11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6401
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual
Transmission
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) lead from the transaxle. 2. Remove the VSS bolt. 3.
Remove the VSS retainer.
4. Remove the VSS assembly. 5. Remove the O-ring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual
Transmission > Page 6404
1. Lubricate a new O-ring with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent. 2.
Install the new O-ring. 3. Install the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) assembly. 4. Install the VSS
retainer. 5. Install the VSS bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Connect the VSS lead to the transaxle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual
Transmission > Page 6405
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Disconnect the electrical
connector. 3. Remove the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
4. Remove the vehicle speed sensor from the case extension.
5. Remove the O-ring from the vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the O-ring onto the vehicle speed sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual
Transmission > Page 6406
2. Install the vehicle speed sensor into the case extension.
3. Install the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T >
Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T >
Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6411
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock (BTSI) Solenoid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Diagrams > 1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve Connector, Wiring Harness Side
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Diagrams > 1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve Connector, Wiring Harness Side > Page 6416
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T >
Component Information > Specifications
Shifter A/T: Specifications
Shift Lever To Transmission Nut
.............................................................................................................................................................
20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Shifter A/T: Service and Repair 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Floor Shift Control Replacement (Floor Shift Control)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the automatic transmission range select lever cable from the selector lever.
3. Remove the range select lever cable from the cable bracket. 4. Remove the center console.
5. Remove the range select lever cable from the automatic transmission control. 6. Remove the
cable grommet at the cowl. 7. Remove the cable from the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6422
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the cable to the vehicle through the cowl and the carpet. 2. Install the cable grommet in
the cowl. 3. Install the range select lever cable at the automatic transmission control. 4. Install the
center console.
5. Install the range select lever cable to the cable bracket.
6. Install the range select lever cable to the selector lever. 7. Connect the negative battery cable. 8.
Adjust the cable.
8.1. Place the shift lever in N (Neutral). Rotate the selector shaft clockwise from P (Park) through R
(Reverse) into N (Neutral). 8.2. Place the shift control assembly in N (Neutral). 8.3. Push the tab on
the cable adjuster in order to adjust the cable in the cable mounting bracket.
Floor Shift Control Replacement (Floor Shift)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6423
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the automatic transmission control lever handle. 3. Remove the console.
4. Remove the range select lever cable from the automatic transmission control. 5. Remove the
electrical connector.
6. Remove the automatic transmission control bolts. 7. Remove the automatic transmission control.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6424
1. Install the automatic transmission control. 2. Install the automatic transmission control bolts. 3.
Install the electrical connector.
4. Install the range select lever cable to the automatic transmission control. 5. Install the console.
Refer to Console Replacement (Chevrolet) or Console Replacement (Pontiac) in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Warning
Indicators.
6. Install the automatic transmission control lever handle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6425
Shifter A/T: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the automatic transmission control lever handle. 3. Remove the console.
4. Remove the range select lever cable from the automatic transmission control. 5. Remove the
electrical connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6426
6. Remove the automatic transmission control bolts. 7. Remove the automatic transmission control.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the automatic transmission control. 2. Install the automatic transmission control bolts. 3.
Install the electrical connector.
4. Install the range select lever cable to the automatic transmission control. 5. Install the console.
Refer to Console Replacement (Chevrolet) or Console Replacement (Pontiac) in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Warning
Indicators.
6. Install the automatic transmission control lever handle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6427
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments
Shift Cable: Adjustments
Park Lock Cable Adjustment
1. Place the floor shift lever in the P (Park) position. 2. Turn the column lock cylinder to the Lock
position. 3. Unseat the body housing lock from the body housing.
Important:
- No gap may exist between the metal terminal stop and the protruding end of the white plastic
collar. If a gap does exist between the terminal stop and the collar, adjust the position of the park
lock cable.
- The white plastic collar must be flush or recessed about 1 mm (0.04 in) within the ignition park
lock housing. If the white plastic collar is not in the proper location, adjust the position of the park
lock cable.
4. Adjust the outer cable conduit in order to obtain the proper location for the white plastic housing
in the ignition switch. Ensure that the body
housing is still attached to the shift control mounting bracket.
5. Seat the body housing lock in the body housing while holding the outer cable conduit in position.
6. Inspect the park/lock control cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6432
Shift Cable: Service and Repair
Park Lock Cable Replacement
Removal
Caution: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK
position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component.
Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment
come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result
in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the console.See: Body and Frame/Interior
Moulding / Trim/Console/Service and Repair 3. Remove the left sound insulator.See: Body and
Frame/Interior Moulding / Trim/Dash Board / Instrument Panel/Service and Repair 4. Remove the
knee bolster. 5. Loosen the lower steering column bracket bolts. 6. Lower the steering column. 7.
Place the transmission shift lever in the P (Park) position.
Important: Do not proceed to the next step with the key in any other position.
8. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
9. Insert a screwdriver blade into the slot provided in the ignition switch inhibitor.
10. Depress the cable latch. Pull the control cable from the inhibitor.
11. Push the cable connector lock button at the shifter base to the up position. 12. Snap the cable
from the park/lock lever pin. 13. Depress the two cable latches. Remove the control cable latches
from the automatic transmission control. 14. Remove the control cable clips.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6433
Installation
Important: When installing a new park/lock cable, keep the shipping cover gauge attached until you
are instructed to detach it. The shipping cover gauge will aid in the proper positioning of the cable.
1. Ensure that the cable lock button is in the up position. Place the shift lever in P (Park). 2. Snap
the control cable connector into the automatic transmission control. 3. Place the ignition key in the
RUN position.
Important: Do not insert the cable with the key in any other position.
4. Snap the control cable into the inhibitor housing until the snap lock is seated. 5. Remove the
shipping cover gauge.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6434
6. Turn the key to the LOCK position. 7. Snap the control cable end onto the shift park/lock lever
pin. 8. Push the cable connector hose forward in order to remove any slack. 9. With no load applied
to the connector nose, snap the cable connector lock button down.
Important: Test for proper operation of the park/lock control cable before installing the steering
column to the instrument panel.
10. Raise and connect the steering column. 11. Tighten the lower steering column bracket bolts.
12. Install the knee bolster. 13. Install the left sound insulator. 14. Install the console. 15. Connect
the negative battery cable.
Inspection
Important: No gap may exist between the metal terminal stop and the protruding end of the white plastic
collar. If a gap does exist between the terminal stop and the collar, adjust the position of the park
lock cable.
- The white plastic collar must be flush or recessed about 1 mm (0.04 in) within the ignition park
lock housing. If the white plastic collar is not in the proper location, adjust the position of the park
lock cable.
1. Ensure that the terminal stop on the column end of the park/lock cable is touching the white
collar that protrudes from the ignition switch.
Complete the following steps in order to inspect:
1.1. Turn the column lock cylinder to the LOCK position.
1.2. Place the floor shift lever into the P (Park) position.
1.3. Verify the correct position of the terminal stop.
2. Ensure that the column lock cylinder remains in the Lock position.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6435
3. Ensure that the floor shift lever remains in the P (Park) position. 4. Gently depress the park/lock
button on the floor shift lever until resistance is felt. 5. Verify that the white plastic collar travels no
more than 1.5 mm (0.06 in). The floor shift lever must not come out of P (Park). 6. With the column
lock cylinder On, verify proper movement of the floor shift lever through all of the gear selections. 7.
While moving the floor shift lever through all of the drive gears, verify that the column lock cylinder
cannot be turned to the Lock position.
Important: Five inspections are used in order to verify proper installation. The installation must pass
all 5 tests. If one or more of the tests fail, adjust the park/lock cable. Refer to Park Lock Cable
Adjustment.
. Ensure that the key can be removed with the column lock cylinder in the Lock position and the
floor shift lever in the P (Park) position.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Sun Gear: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E,
No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
Sun Gear: Customer Interest A/T - 4L60/65E, No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-022D
Date: June 10, 2008
Subject: No Reverse, Second Gear or Fourth Gear (Replace Reaction Sun Shell with More Robust
Heat Treated Parts)
Models: 1993 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003 - 2005 HUMMER H2
with 4L60/65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30 or M32)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add 2005 model year to the parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-022C (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a no reverse, no second or no fourth gear condition. First and
third gears will operate properly.
Cause
The reaction sun gear (673) may not hold inside the reaction sun shell (670).
Correction
Important:
There are FOUR distinct groups of vehicles and repair procedures involved. Vehicles built in the
2001 model year and prior that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust washer:
^ The sun shell can be identified by four square holes used to retain the thrust washer. Use
reaction sun shell P/N 24228345, reaction carrier to shell thrust washer (699B) P/N 8642202 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674) P/N 8642331er (674) P/N 8642331along with the
appropriate seals and washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and prior that have had previous service to the reaction sun
shell: It is possible that some 2001 and prior model year vehicles have had previous service to the
reaction sun shell. At the time of service, these vehicles may have been updated with a Reaction
Sun Shell Kit (Refer to Service Bulletin 020730003) without four square holes to retain the thrust
washer. If it is found in a 2001 model year and prior vehicles that the reaction sun shell DOES NOT
have four square holes to retain the thrust washer, these vehicles must be serviced with P/Ns
24229825 (674), 24217328 and 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and washers listed
below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and later that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust
bearing: The sun shell can be identified by no holes to retain the thrust washer. Use reaction sun
shell, P/N 24229825, reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A), P/N 24217328 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674), P/N 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and
washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built from November, 2001 through June, 2002: These vehicles should have the reaction
carrier shaft replaced when the sun shell is replaced. Use shell kit P/N 24229853, which contains a
sun shell (670), a reaction carrier shaft (666), a reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A)
and a reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674). The appropriate seals and washers listed below
should also be used.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Follow the service procedure below for diagnosis and correction of the no reverse, no second, no
forth condition.
Important:
If metallic debris is found on the transmission magnet, the transmission must be completely
disassembled and cleaned. Metallic debris is defined as broken parts and pieces of internal
transmission components. This should not be confused with typical "normal" fine particles found on
all transmission magnets. Failure to properly clean the transmission case and internal components
may lead to additional repeat repairs.
1. Remove the transmission oil pan and inspect the magnet in the bottom of the pan for metal
debris. Refer to SI Document ID # 825141.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Sun Gear: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E,
No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 6444
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate SI document.
Important:
^ Inspect all the transmission components for damage or wear. Replace all damaged or worn
components. The parts shown above should be sufficient to correct this concern.
^ This condition does not normally require replacement of the transmission completely.
Components such as clutches, valve body, pump and torque converters will NOT require
replacement to correct this condition.
Disassemble the transmission and replace the appropriate parts listed below. Refer to the Unit
Repair Manual - Repair Instructions.
3. Reinstall the transmission in the vehicle. Refer to appropriate service information.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Sun Gear: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E,
No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 6445
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T
- 4L60/65E, No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
Sun Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60/65E, No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-022D
Date: June 10, 2008
Subject: No Reverse, Second Gear or Fourth Gear (Replace Reaction Sun Shell with More Robust
Heat Treated Parts)
Models: 1993 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003 - 2005 HUMMER H2
with 4L60/65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30 or M32)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add 2005 model year to the parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-022C (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a no reverse, no second or no fourth gear condition. First and
third gears will operate properly.
Cause
The reaction sun gear (673) may not hold inside the reaction sun shell (670).
Correction
Important:
There are FOUR distinct groups of vehicles and repair procedures involved. Vehicles built in the
2001 model year and prior that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust washer:
^ The sun shell can be identified by four square holes used to retain the thrust washer. Use
reaction sun shell P/N 24228345, reaction carrier to shell thrust washer (699B) P/N 8642202 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674) P/N 8642331er (674) P/N 8642331along with the
appropriate seals and washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and prior that have had previous service to the reaction sun
shell: It is possible that some 2001 and prior model year vehicles have had previous service to the
reaction sun shell. At the time of service, these vehicles may have been updated with a Reaction
Sun Shell Kit (Refer to Service Bulletin 020730003) without four square holes to retain the thrust
washer. If it is found in a 2001 model year and prior vehicles that the reaction sun shell DOES NOT
have four square holes to retain the thrust washer, these vehicles must be serviced with P/Ns
24229825 (674), 24217328 and 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and washers listed
below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and later that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust
bearing: The sun shell can be identified by no holes to retain the thrust washer. Use reaction sun
shell, P/N 24229825, reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A), P/N 24217328 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674), P/N 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and
washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built from November, 2001 through June, 2002: These vehicles should have the reaction
carrier shaft replaced when the sun shell is replaced. Use shell kit P/N 24229853, which contains a
sun shell (670), a reaction carrier shaft (666), a reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A)
and a reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674). The appropriate seals and washers listed below
should also be used.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Follow the service procedure below for diagnosis and correction of the no reverse, no second, no
forth condition.
Important:
If metallic debris is found on the transmission magnet, the transmission must be completely
disassembled and cleaned. Metallic debris is defined as broken parts and pieces of internal
transmission components. This should not be confused with typical "normal" fine particles found on
all transmission magnets. Failure to properly clean the transmission case and internal components
may lead to additional repeat repairs.
1. Remove the transmission oil pan and inspect the magnet in the bottom of the pan for metal
debris. Refer to SI Document ID # 825141.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T
- 4L60/65E, No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 6451
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate SI document.
Important:
^ Inspect all the transmission components for damage or wear. Replace all damaged or worn
components. The parts shown above should be sufficient to correct this concern.
^ This condition does not normally require replacement of the transmission completely.
Components such as clutches, valve body, pump and torque converters will NOT require
replacement to correct this condition.
Disassemble the transmission and replace the appropriate parts listed below. Refer to the Unit
Repair Manual - Repair Instructions.
3. Reinstall the transmission in the vehicle. Refer to appropriate service information.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T
- 4L60/65E, No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 6452
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Assembly, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Throttle Valve Assembly: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
TV Cable To Case ...............................................................................................................................
.................................................... 9 Nm (75 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Assembly, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6457
Throttle Valve Assembly: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
TV Cable To Case ...............................................................................................................................
.................................................... 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Assembly, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6458
Throttle Valve Assembly: Adjustments
1. Depress and hold the readjustment tab. 2. Pull the cable conduit out until the slider mechanism
hits the stop. 3. Release the button. 4. Remove the floor mat. 5. Firmly depress the accelerator
pedal to the Wide Open Throttle (WOT) position. 6. Verify that the cable moves freely. The cable
may appear to function properly with the engine stopped and cold. Recheck the engine after the
engine is hot.
7. Road test the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Assembly, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6459
Throttle Valve Assembly: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Observe the TV cable routing when you remove the cable. Duplicate the cable
routing when installing the cable.
1. Remove the TV cable end from the accelerator control lever assembly slot. 2. Remove the TV
cable conduit end from the bracket by compressing the locking tangs. 3. Remove the TV cable
routing clips or straps.
4. Remove the bolt that is securing the TV cable to the transmission. Pull up on the cable cover at
the transmission until the cable is visible. 5. Remove the cable from the transmission link.
6. Remove the transmission case seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Assembly, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6460
1. Install a new seal into the transmission case hole. 2. Install the transmission end of the cable to
the TV link.
3. Install the TV cable bolt and washer assembly to the transmission.
^ Tighten the bolts to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the TV cable routing clips or straps. 5. Install the TV cable conduit end to the bracket.
6. Install the TV cable into the accelerator control lever assembly slot.
IMPORTANT: Do not damage or kink the wire cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Assembly, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6461
7. Pull on the upper end of the cable. The cable should travel a short distance with light resistance
caused by the small return spring on the TV lever.
When releasing the upper end of the TV cable, the cable should return to the zero TV position.
8. Adjust the TV cable. Refer to TV Cable Adjustment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Torque Converter Replacement Information
Torque Converter: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Torque Converter Replacement Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-010C
Date: May 12, 2008
Subject: Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Torque Converter Replacement
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saturn Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Except VTi Equipped Vehicles (RPO M16 and M75)
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with ALL Automatic Transmissions and Transaxles
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2007-2009 model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-07-30-010B (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The purpose of this bulletin is to help technicians determine when a torque converter should be
replaced. Below is a list of general guidelines to follow.
The converter should NOT be replaced if the following apply:
^ DTC P0742 - TCC stuck on is set. This code is almost always the result of a controls condition
(i.e. stuck TCC solenoid/valve). Experience has shown that this code rarely indicates a mechanical
concern within the torque converter.
^ The fluid has an odor or is discolored but no evidence of metal contamination.
^ Fine metal particles (traces of metal flakes/gray color to fluid ) are found in the converter. This is
not harmful to the torque converter.
^ The vehicle has been exposed to high mileage.
^ A small amount of wear appears on the hub where the oil pump drive gear mates to the converter
(RWD only). A certain amount of such wear is normal for both the hub and oil pump gear. Neither
the converter nor the front pump assembly should be replaced.
The torque converter should be replaced under any of the following conditions:
^ The vehicle has TCC shudder and/or no TCC apply. First complete all electrical and hydraulic
diagnosis and check for proper engine operation. The converter clutch may be damaged. Also the
converter bushing and/or internal 0-ring may be damaged.
^ Evidence of damage to the oil pump assembly pump shaft turbine shaft drive sprocket support
and bearing or metal chips/debris in the converter.
^ Metal chips/debris are found in the converter or when flushing the cooler and the cooler lines.
^ External leaks in the hub weld area lug weld or closure weld.
^ Converter pilot is broken damaged or fits poorly into the crankshaft.
^ The converter hub is scored or damaged.
^ The transmission oil is contaminated with engine coolant engine oil or water.
^ If excessive end play is found after measuring the converter for proper end play (refer to Service
Manual).
^ If metal chips/debris are found in the fluid filter or on the magnet and no internal parts in the unit
are worn or damaged. This indicates that the material came from the converter.
^ The converter has an unbalanced condition that results in a vibration that cannot be corrected by
following Converter Vibration Procedures.
^ Blue converter or dark circular ring between lugs. This condition will also require a complete
cleaning of the cooler and a check for adequate flow
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Torque Converter Replacement Information > Page 6466
through the cooler.
^ Converter bearing noise determined by noise from the bell housing area in Drive or Reverse at
idle. The noise is gone in Neutral and Park.
^ If silicon from the viscous clutch is found in the lower pan (4T80-E ONLY).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6467
Torque Converter: Specifications
Flywheel To Torque Converter ............................................................................................................
..................................................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6468
Torque Converter: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the transmission assembly from the vehicle. Refer to Transmission Replacement. 3.
Remove the torque convertor assembly from the transmission.
4. Remove the torque convertor O-ring seal from the end of the turbine shaft. Use a screwdriver.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install a new torque convertor 0-ring seal on the end of the turbine shaft.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6469
2. Install the torque convertor onto the transmission. 3. Install the transmission into the vehicle.
Refer to Transmission Replacement. 4. Connect the negative battery cable. 5. Adjust the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Check Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line
Fitting
Torque Converter Check Valve: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Revised Converter Check
Valve/Cooler Line Fitting
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-017B
Date: November 25, 2008
Subject: Information on 4T65-E MN7, M15, M76, MN3 Automatic Transmission Case, Cooler
Fitting and Torque Converter Drain Back Check Ball Change
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
with one of the HYDRA-MATIC(R) Automatic Transmissions shown above.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-017A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Effective with Julian date 4019 (January 19, 2004), the 4T65E transaxle cases and cooler fittings
have changed and are not interchangeable with past models. The technician may find that when
replacing the inlet or outlet transmission cooler lines, the new lines cannot be connected to the
transmission.
A change to the transmission cooler line fittings was implemented in production on February 1,
2004. The cooler line fittings were changed to a design with a longer lead in pilot (1). The cooler
line fittings with the longer lead in pilot will not fit on models built before February 1, 2004.
The longer lead in pilot fittings (1) (9/16-18 UNF) have replaced the shorter lead in pilot fittings (2)
(3/8-18 NPSF w/check ball & 1/4-18 NPSF).
If the transmission cooler lines will not connect, then replace them with the following cooler line
fittings as appropriate with the older, shorter lead in pilot design:
^ For vehicles built prior to February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Inlet Hose, P/N
20793004.
^ For vehicles built after February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Inlet Hose, second
design P/N 15264588.
^ For vehicles built prior to February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Outlet Hose, P/N
20793005.
^ For vehicles built after February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Outlet Hose, second
design P/N 15264589.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Check Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line
Fitting > Page 6474
The torque specification has changed for the fittings to case. The torque has changed from 38 Nm
(28 lb ft) to 32 Nm (23 lb ft).
Tighten
Tighten the new cooler fittings to 32 Nm (23 lb ft).
The converter drain back check ball (420C) has been removed from the cooler line fitting and is
now located in the channel plate.
If you get a concern of no movement in the morning or after sitting for several hours, the cooler
check ball should be inspected.
The best way to determine where the check ball is located is to look at the cooler line fittings. The
old fittings are different sizes (3/8-18 NPSF & 1/4-18 NPSF) and would contain the cooler check
ball. The new fittings are the same size as each other (9/16-18 UNF) and do not have a cooler
check ball.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Torque Converter Clutch: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
In order to properly diagnose the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) system, perform all electrical
testing first and then the hydraulic testing. Refer to Powertrain Management and Automatic
Transmission. For electrical schematics of the TCC system, refer to Powertrain Management.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 6480
Torque Converter Clutch: Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures
In order to properly diagnose the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) system, perform all electrical
testing first and then perform the hydraulic testing. The Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is applied
by fluid pressure, which is controlled by a solenoid valve. This solenoid valve is located inside of
the automatic transmission assembly. The solenoid valve energizes or de-energizes by making or
breaking an electrical circuit through the PCM and brake switch.
FUNCTIONAL CHECK PROCEDURE
1. Install a tachometer or a scan tool. 2. Operate the vehicle until you have reached the proper
operating temperature. 3. Drive the vehicle at 80-88 km/h (50-55 mph) with a light throttle (road
load). 4. Maintaining throttle speed, lightly touch the brake pedal. Check for the release of the TCC
and a slight increase in engine speed. 5. Release the brake and slowly accelerate. Check for a
reapply of the converter clutch and a slight decrease in engine speed.
PRELIMINARY CHECKING PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: ^
You may use a DLC scanner in order to verify the electrical circuit. Remember, a complete circuit
does not indicate that the solenoid will apply.
^ Do not bench test using an automotive type battery. Accidentally crossed wires will damage the
internal diodes of the TCC solenoid.
The purpose of the preliminary checking procedure is to isolate external electrical problems from
internal ones.
EXTERNAL CONTROLS
1. Connect a voltmeter between the transmission electrical connector and the ground. 2. Turn the
key ON. 3. If zero or low voltage is found, refer to Diagrams. 4. If 12 volts are present at the
connector, refer to TCC hydraulic diagnosis.
TORQUE CONVERTER STATOR
The torque converter stator roller clutch can have two different malfunctions. ^
The stator assembly freewheels in both directions.
^ The stator assembly remains locked up at all times.
POOR ACCELERATION AT LOW SPEED
If the stator is freewheeling at all times, the car tends to have poor acceleration from a standstill. At
speeds above 50-55 km/h (30-35 mph), the car may act normally. For poor acceleration, you
should first determine that the exhaust system is not blocked, the engine timing is correct, and the
transmission is in First gear when starting out. If the engine freely accelerates to high RPM in
Neutral, you can assume that the engine and the exhaust system are normal. Check for poor
performance in Drive and Reverse to help determine if the stator is freewheeling at all times.
POOR ACCELERATION AT HIGH SPEED
If the stator is locked up at all times, performance is normal when accelerating from a standstill.
Engine RPM and car speed are limited or restricted at high speeds. Visual examination of the
converter may reveal a blue color from overheating. If the converter has been removed, you can
check the stator roller clutch by inserting two fingers into the splined inner race of the roller clutch
and trying to turn the race in both directions. You should be able to freely turn the inner race
clockwise, but you should have difficulty in moving the inner race counterclockwise or you may be
unable to move the race at all. Do not use such items as the driven sprocket support or shafts in
order to turn the race. The results may be misleading.
NOISE
IMPORTANT: Do not confuse this noise with pump whine noise, which is usually noticeable in
PARK, NEUTRAL and all other gear ranges. Pump whine will vary with line pressure.
You may notice a torque converter whine when the vehicle is stopped and the transmission is in
DRIVE or REVERSE. This noise will increase as you increase the engine RPM. The noise will stop
when the vehicle is moving or when you apply the torque converter clutch, because both halves of
the converter are turning at the same speed. Perform a stall test to make sure the noise is actually
coming from the converter: 1. Place your foot on the brake. 2. Put the gear selector in DRIVE.
NOTICE: You may damage the transmission if you depress the accelerator for more than six
seconds.
3. Depress the accelerator to approximately 1,200 RPM for no more than six seconds.
A torque converter noise will increase under this load. Replace the torque converter under any of
the following conditions: ^
External leaks appear in the hub weld area.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 6481
^ The converter hub is scored or damaged.
^ The converter pilot is broken, damaged, or fits poorly into the crankshaft.
^ You discover steel particles after flushing the cooler and the cooler lines.
^ The pump is damaged, or you discover steel particles in the converter.
^ The vehicle has TCC shudder and/or no TCC apply. Replace the torque converter only after all
hydraulic and electrical diagnoses have been made. The converter clutch material may be glazed.
^ The converter has an imbalance which cannot be corrected. Refer to Flexplate/Torque Converter
Vibration Test, Flexplate/Torque Converter Vibration Test Procedure.
^ The converter is contaminated with engine coolant which contains antifreeze.
^ An internal failure occurs in the stator roller clutch.
^ You notice excessive end play.
^ Overheating produces heavy debris in the clutch.
^ You discover steel particles or clutch lining material in the fluid filter or on the magnet, when no
internal parts in the unit are worn or damaged. This condition indicates that lining material came
from the converter.
Do not replace the torque converter if you discover any of the following symptoms: ^
The oil has an odor or the oil is discolored, even though metal or clutch facing particles are not
present.
^ The threads in one or more of the converter bolt holds are damaged. Correct the condition with a
thread insert.
^ Transmission failure did not display evidence of damaged or worn internal parts, steel particles or
clutch plate lining material in the unit and inside the fluid filter. The vehicle has been exposed to
high mileage only. An exception may exist where the lining of the torque converter clutch dampener
plate has seen excess wear by vehicles operated in heavy and/or constant traffic, such as taxi,
delivery, or police use.
TCC SHUDDER
The key to diagnosing Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) shudder is to note when it happens and
under what conditions. TCC shudder which is caused by the transmission should only occur during
the apply or the release of the converter clutch. Shudder should never occur after the TCC plate is
fully applied. If the shudder occurs while the TCC is applying, the problem can be within the
transmission or the torque converter. Something is causing one of the following conditions to occur:
^
Something is not allowing the clutch to become fully engaged.
^ Something is not allowing the clutch to release.
^ The clutch is releasing and applying at the same time.
One of the following conditions may be causing the problem to occur: ^
Leaking turbine shaft seals
^ A restricted release orifice
^ A distorted clutch or housing surface due to long converter bolts
^ Defective friction material on the TCC plate
If shudder occurs after the TCC has applied, most of the time there is nothing wrong with the
transmission. As mentioned above, the TCC is not likely to slip after the TCC has been applied.
Engine problems may go unnoticed under light throttle and load, but they become noticeable after
the TCC apply when going up a hill or accelerating. This is due to the mechanical coupling between
the engine and the transmission. Once TCC is applied, there is no torque converter (fluid coupling)
assistance. Engine or driveline vibrations could be unnoticeable before TCC engagement. Inspect
the following components in order to avoid misdiagnosis of TCC shudder. An inspection will also
avoid the unnecessary disassembly of a transmission or the unnecessary replacement of a
converter. ^
Spark plugs - Inspect for cracks, high resistance or a broken insulator.
^ Plug wires - Look in each end. If there is red dust (ozone) or a black substance (carbon) present,
then the wires are bad. Also look for a white discoloration of the wire. This indicates arcing during
hard acceleration.
^ Coils - Check for coil misfire.
^ Fuel injectors - The filter may be plugged.
^ Vacuum leak - The engine will not get a correct amount of fuel. The mixture may run rich or lean
depending on where the leak occurs.
^ EGR valve - The valve may let in too much or too little unburnable exhaust gas and could cause
the engine to run rich or lean.
^ MAP/MAF sensor - Like a vacuum leak, the engine will not get the correct amount of fuel for
proper engine operation.
^ Carbon on the intake valves - Carbon restricts the proper flow of air/fuel mixture into the
cylinders.
^ Flat cam - Valves do not open enough to let the proper fuel/air mixture into the cylinders.
^ Oxygen sensors - This sensor may command the engine too rich or too lean for too long.
^ Fuel pressure - This may be too low.
^ Engine mounts - Vibration of the mounts can be multiplied by TCC engagement.
^ Axle joints - Check for vibration.
^ TP Sensor - The TCC apply and release depends on the TP Sensor in many engines. If the TP
Sensor is out of specification, TCC may remain applied during initial engine loading.
^ Cylinder balance - Bad piston rings or poorly sealing valves can cause low power in a cylinder.
^ Fuel contamination - This causes poor engine performance.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
TCC Solenoid Valve To Valve Body
......................................................................................................................................................... 11
Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6487
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6488
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the valve body cover. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 2. Remove the
transmission mount bracket. 3. Disconnect the solenoid wire harness from the case electrical
connector. 4. Disconnect the wire leads from the pressure switch.
5. Remove the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt from the control valve body.
6. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch. 7. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6489
1. Install the 2nd clutch pressure switch, if applicable.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install 3rd clutch pressure switch.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
3. Install the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt to the control valve body. 4. Install the 0-ring.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
5. Connect the wire leads to the pressure switch. 6. Connect the solenoid wire harness to the case
electrical connector. 7. Install the transmission mount bracket. 8. Install the valve body cover with a
new gasket. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 9. Inspect the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Cover > Component Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Cover: Specifications
Converter Shield ..................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 10 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 02-07-30-052G
Date: March 02, 2011
Subject: Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow(R)
Models:
2011 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2010 HUMMER H2 2006-2010
HUMMER H3 with Automatic Transmission/Transaxle including Allison(R) Transmissions
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052F (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle include
labor time to flush the transmission oil cooler system.
The J 45096 transmission oil cooling system flush and flow test tool replaces current tool J
35944-A. J 45096 is a self-contained unit utilizing a 12-volt flow meter, shop air supply and
DEXRON(R) VI automatic transmission fluid (ATF). In the flush mode, transmission fluid is cycled
through the transmission oil cooling system. High-pressure air is automatically injected into the fluid
stream adding agitation to the ATF oil to enhance the removal of contaminated ATF oil and debris.
In the flow mode, an electronic flow meter is used to measure the flow capability of the ATF oil
cooling system. A digital display indicates the ATF oil flow rate in gallons per minute (GPM) along
with the amount of ATF oil in the supply vessel, supply vessel ATF oil temperature, machine cycles
and the operating mode. The supply oil vessel has 30 L (32 qt) capacity and the waste oil vessel
has 32 L (34 qt) capacity. The waste oil vessel is constructed of a translucent composite material
that allows the user to easily identify the oil level. The waste oil vessel can accommodate vacuum
evacuation and gravity draining. In the code mode, a random, encrypted code is generated that can
be used for verification of flow test results.
Current essential cooler line adapters are used to connect the J 45096 to the automatic
transmission oil cooler lines that allows J 45096 to adapt to General Motors passenger cars and
light duty trucks, current and past models (except the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo).
The tool may be adapted for use on the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo by dealership
personnel with a barbed hose connector and rubber hose obtained locally. The
Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission has a transmission oil requirement which is slightly different
than DEXRON(R) VI ATF. However, flushing the cooler with DEXRON(R) VI automatic
transmission fluid is an acceptable service procedure. Very little fluid remains in the cooler after the
flush procedure and the residual DEXRON(R) VI ATF in the cooler is compatible with the
Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission fluid.
Notice
Insufficient oil flow through the ATF oil cooling system will cause premature transmission failure.
The required minimum ATF oil flow rate reading is directly related to the supply oil temperature.
Refer to the flow rate reference chart for the oil flow rate specification based on the temperature of
the ATF in the supply vessel.
Helpful Hints for Maintaining the Temperature at or above 18°C (65°F)
Important
- The temperature of the supply vessel oil must be 18°C (65°F) or greater for J 45096 to operate. It
is recommended to store the J 45096 in an area of the dealership where the room temperature
remains at or above 18°C (65°F) when not in use.
- Do not attempt to increase the fluid temperature in the Transflow(R) machine with an engine oil
dipstick, or any other immersion type heater. The Transflow(R) machine has a check valve in the
supply reservoir. Inserting a heater will damage the check valve and the subsequent repair
expense would be the dealer's responsibility.
- A heater blanket, P/N J-45096-10, is available for the Transflow(R) transmission cooling system
flushing tool. This heater fastens around the Transflow(R) internal supply vessel and runs on 110
volts AC. The heater will warm the ATF in the supply vessel to at least 18°C (65° F) and has a
thermostat to hold a constant temperature.
Store the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J 45096, Transflow(R) machine in a room
where the temperature is maintained at or above 18°C (65°F).
Keep the ATF level in the reservoir low when the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J
45096, Transflow(R), is not in use. Store several gallons of oil in an area where the temperature is
maintained at or above 18°C (65°F). Fill the reservoir of the J 45096 as needed before using the
machine on
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 6497
each repair.
With the ATF in a tightly sealed container, place the container in a tub of hot water for a period of
time. Then pour the ATF into the reservoir. This method works best with a low fluid level in the
reservoir.
Place the Transflow(R) machine in the direct sunlight with the cabinet door open to expose the
reservoir to the rays of the warm sun.
Flush / Flow Test Procedure
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle and require
the transmission oil pan or transmission side cover to be removed include labor time to flush the
transmission oil cooler system.
Refer to SI for Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test J 45096 for the
appropriate procedure.
Important The J 45096 can be used to flush the transmission oil cooler system on an Allison
equipped vehicle, but the flow meter should not be utilized. Refer to SI for Automatic Transmission
Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test J 45096 for the appropriate flow check procedure.
Machine Displays
After completion of the flush and flow test, the following information is to be recorded on the repair
order. This information is displayed on the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J 45096,
Transflow(R) machine when the dial is in the code position.
- Tested flow rate (displayed in Gallons Per Minute (GPM)
- Temperature (displayed is degrees Fahrenheit)
- Cycle number (a number)
- Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code (i.e. A10DFB2)
Warranty Information
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle include
labor time to flush the transmission oil cooler system.
Performing a transmission oil cooling system flush and flow test will use between 4.7-7.5 L (5-8 qts)
of DEXRON(R)VI transmission fluid. The amount
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 6498
of transmission fluid (ATF), (DEXRON(R)VI) (fluid) that is to be charged for the flush portion of the
repair should not exceed the allowable charge for 7.5 L (2 gal) of fluid. This expense should be
shown in the Parts Section of the warranty claim document.
The Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code, i.e. A10DFB2, "MUST" be written on the job card and
placed in the comments section of the warranty claim. Any repair that requires the technician to
contact the Product Quality Center (PQC) must also include the seven digit flow code. The agent
will request the seven digit flow code and add the information to the PQC case prior to providing
authorization for the warranty claim.
The Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code, i.e. A10DFB2, "MUST" be written on the job card,
entered in the warranty claim labor operation Flush Code additional field (when available) and
placed in the comments section of the warranty claim. Any repair that requires the technician to
contact the Product Quality Center (PQC) must also include the seven digit flow code. The agent
will request the seven digit flow code and add the information to the PQC case prior to providing
authorization for the warranty claim.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 6499
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 6500
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 6501
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Oil Cooler Flushing Frequently Asked
Questions
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-027
Date: June, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Most Frequently Asked Questions and Answers for J 45096 TransFlow Transmission Oil
Cooling System Flushing Machine
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic
Transmission/Transaxle
2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
This bulletin is issued to help answer the most frequently asked questions and concerns about
essential tool J 45096.
Q: Why doesn't the machine work below 18°C (65°F)?
A: The flow characteristics of ATF at temperatures below 18°C (65°F) does not provide accurate
flow test results with the electronics used in the J
45096.
Q: Why didn't the unit come with a tank heater?
A: The vast majority of dealerships do not require a heater to keep the ATF above 18°C (65°F). As
a result, the heater was deleted as a cost-savings
measure. A tank heater, J 45096-10, is currently available from Kent-Moore if your dealership
requires it. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-002A for suggestions on warming the ATF
without using a heater blanket.
Q: Why does the machine fail new oil coolers?
A: Several reasons have been found. The most likely reason is the air pressure at the air hose
connected to the J 45096 is less than 586 kPa (85 psi).
Other reasons include a twisted hose inside the J 45096 at the bulkhead as a result of the nut
turning when the waste or supply hose was installed, the internal pressure regulator was
improperly set at the factory or a problem with the cooler lines on the vehicle. Perform the J 45096
self-test as described on pages 9 and 10 of the Operation Manual. If a problem is still detected,
refer to Troubleshooting on page 19 of the Operation Manual. If a problem still persists, contact
Kent-Moore Customer Service at 1-800-345-2233.
Q: What is the difference between steel and aluminum oil coolers?
A: The aluminum oil cooler tube is slightly thinner in construction than the steel oil cooler tube,
which affects the oil flow rate. The fitting that is
protruding out of the radiator tank easily identifies the aluminum oil cooler. Refer to the Quick
Reference card provided with the J 45096 in order to identify the proper flow rate for the aluminum
oil cooler.
Q: Why can't I use TransFlow for Allison transmission cooling Systems?
A: Validation of TransFlow is currently under development for light duty trucks equipped with the
Allison automatic transmission. TransFlow is based
on the existing MINIMUM flow rate specification through the transmission oil cooling system. The
Allison transmission oil cooling system only has MAXIMUM oil flow rates specified and J 45096
does not have the capability to test the transmission oil cooling system at the maximum oil flow rate
specification.
Q: Why doesn't GM publish a specification for auxiliary transmission oil coolers?
A: The auxiliary oil cooler used with GM vehicles does not contain an internal turbulator plate like
the radiator tank oil cooler does. Therefore, there is
no internal restriction that would affect the flow rate through the oil cooling system so a
specification for auxiliary oil cooler is not required. Keep in mind, kinks and damage to the auxiliary
cooler and lines can affect the flow rate through the system.
Q: Why did GM drop the labor time for transmission repairs?
A: The labor for flushing and flow testing the transmission oil cooling system is included with the
R&R; labor of the "K" labor operations that require
transmission removal. The time required to use the J 45096 to perform the flush and flow test is
much less than that of the J 35944-A. The warranty labor savings allowed GM to provide the J
45096 at no cost to dealerships.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 6502
Q: Why didn't the machine come with the adapters to hook up to the car?
A: The J 45096 was designed to use the previously released essential cooler line adapters for the J
35944-A. All adapters are listed on page 17 of the
Operation Manual and can be ordered from Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233.
Q: How do I connect the J 45096 to a Catera, Prizm or a Vibe?
A: These vehicles, along with many other models, only require barbed fittings to connect to the
rubber cooler hose. These fittings are commercially
available and already found in many shops.
Q: Why didn't I receive an Operation Manual with the machine?
A: The Operation Manual was packaged in the upper portion of the shipping carton. If the shipping
carton was lifted off the base without opening the
top of the carton, the Operation Manual could have been discarded with the carton. Replacement
Operation Manual packages can be obtained from Kent-Moore Customer Service at
1-800-345-2233.
Q: Why can't I re-use the transmission fluid I use for flushing?
A: The very fine metal and clutch material debris from the transmission failure in the ATF causes
failures with the hall effect speed sensors that are used
to measure the flow rate. To avoid costly repairs, expensive filters, regular maintenance and
problems caused by a partially restricted filter, the filter was not included.
Q: What do I do if I need service on my machine?
A: Call Kent-Moore Customer Service at 1-800-345-2233. The J 45096 has a one-year warranty.
Q: Can I flush and flow engine oil coolers?
A: The engine oil cooler flow rates, the appropriate adapters and an acceptable procedure are
currently under development.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 6503
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Oil Cooler Flushing/Flow Check Procedures
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 99-07-30-017A
Date: February, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Check Procedures
Models: 2003 and Prior GM Light Duty Trucks 2003 HUMMER H2 with Allison(R) Automatic
Transmission (RPO M74)
This bulletin revises bulletin 99-07-30-017 to reflect the release of the new Transflow(R) J 45096
Transmission Cooling System Service Tool. The Transflow(R) Transmission Cooling System
Service Tool is to be used for all vehicles. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-07-30-017
(Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Important:
If you were sent here by the instruction booklet for the J 45096 TransFlow(R) machine, note that
the table has been moved to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6504
Transmission Cooler: Specifications
Cooler Connector ................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 38 Nm (23 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Transmission Mount: Service and Repair 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
A/T Mount Replacement (Front)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^
Tools Required J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Install the J 28467-360 to the transmission. Raise the transmission enough in order to unload the
transmission mounts. 3. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 4. Remove
the left front wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal in Tires and Wheels. 5. Remove the
left splash shield.
6. Remove the pipe expansion bolt from the transmission support assembly.
7. Remove the transmission mount to body bolts. 8. Lower the engine/transmission assembly just
enough to be able to remove the transmission mount from the bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6509
9. Remove the transmission mount.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the transmission mount to the transmission bracket. Do not tighten the bracket until the
mount is fastened to the body. 2. Raise the engine and the transmission assembly.
3. Install the transmission mount to body bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 66 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the pipe expansion bolt to the transmission support assembly.
^ Tighten to bolt to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6510
5. Install the left splash shield. 6. Install the left front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel
Installation in Tires and Wheels.
7. Remove the engine support fixture. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9. Connect the negative battery cable.
A/T Mount Replacement (Rear)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 28467-360
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the air intake duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Intake Duct Replacement in Powertrain
Management. 3. Remove the TV cable, if equipped. Refer to TV Cable Replacement. 4. Remove
the power brake booster line. 5. Remove the hose.
6. Install the J 28467-360. 7. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 8.
Remove the engine mount strut. 9. Remove the left front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
Wheel Removal in Tires and Wheels.
10. Remove the left splash shield. 11. Remove the crossmember. 12. Remove the left front ABS
wheel speed sensor connector. 13. Remove the harness from the suspension support. 14. Remove
the left front ball joint. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement in Suspension. 15. Remove the left
stabilizer bushing nuts. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement in Suspension. 16. Remove the
stabilizer shaft from the left lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement in
Suspension. 17. Remove the left suspension support. Refer to Suspension Crossmember
Replacement in Suspension. 18. Remove the left side drive axle from the transmission. Refer to
Wheel Drive Shafts Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6511
19. Remove the transmission cooler pipes. Plug in order to prevent leakage. Refer to A/T Oil
Cooler Pipes Replacement. 20. Remove the P/S lines from the P/S gear. Plug in order to prevent
leakage.
21. Remove the transmission mount to body bolts.
22. Remove the pipe expansion bolt from the transmission support assembly. 23. Lower the engine
and the transmission assembly just enough to be able to remove the transmission support
assembly and the mount assembly.
24. Remove the transmission mount from the transmission support assembly.
25. Remove the transmission support assembly bolts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6512
26. Remove the transmission support assembly.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE.
1. Position the transmission support assembly into the vehicle. 2. Install the transmission support
assembly bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the transmission mount to the transmission support assembly. 4. Raise the engine and the
transmission assembly.
5. Install the transmission mount to body bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 66 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6513
6. Install the transmission pipe expansion bolt to the transmission support assembly.
^ Tighten the bolt to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.).
7. Install the P/S lines to the P/S gear. 8. Install the transmission cooler lines. Refer to A/T Oil
Cooler Pipes Replacement. 9. Install the left drive axle to the transmission. Refer to Wheel Drive
Shafts Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
10. Install the left suspension support. Refer to Suspension Crossmember Replacement in
Suspension. 11. Install the stabilizer shaft to the left lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft
Replacement in Suspension. 12. Install the left stabilizer bushing nuts. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft
Replacement in Suspension. 13. Install the left front ball joint. Refer to Lower Ball
Joint Replacement in Suspension.
14. Route and connect the left front ABS wheel speed sensor. 15. Install the crossmember. 16.
Install the left splash shield. 17. Install the left front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel
Installation in Tires and Wheels. 18. Install the engine mount strut. 19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Remove the engine support fixture. 21. Install the power brake booster line. 22. Install the hose.
23. Install the TV cable, if equipped. Refer to TV Cable Replacement. 24. Install the air intake duct.
Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Powertrain Management. 25. Connect the negative
battery cable. 26. Adjust the P/S oil level. Refer to Checking and Adding Power Steering Fluid in
Power Steering System. 27. Adjust the TV cable. Refer to TV Cable Adjustment 28. Inspect the oil
level. 29. Inspect the suspension alignment. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in Wheel
Alignment. 30. Inspect the transmission for oil leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6514
Transmission Mount: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
A/T Mount Replacement (Front)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^
Tools Required J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Install the J 28467-360 to the transmission.
3. Remove the upper transmission mount assembly bolts. 4. Raise and suitably support the
vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 5. Remove the left front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
Wheel Removal in Tires and Wheels. 6. Remove the left front splash shield.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6515
7. Remove the transmission mount expansion pipe bolt.
8. Remove the lower transmission mount assembly bolts.
9. Remove the transmission mount.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the transmission mount.
2. Install the lower transmission mount bolts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6516
^ Tighten the bolts to 66 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the transmission mount expansion plug. 4. Install the left front splash shield. 5. Install the
left front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Installation in Tires and Wheels. 6. Lower the
vehicle.
7. Install the upper transmission mount bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 66 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
8. Remove the engine support fixture. 9. Connect the negative battery cable.
A/T Mount Replacement (Rear)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^
Tools Required J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6517
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Install the J 28467-360 to the transmission.
3. Remove the upper transmission support assembly bolts. 4. Raise and suitably support the
vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 5. Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel
Removal in Tires and Wheels. 6. Remove the left front splash shield.
7. Remove the transmission mount expansion pipe bolt.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6518
8. Remove the lower transmission support assembly bolts.
9. Remove the transmission support.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the transmission support.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6519
2. Install the lower transmission support bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the transmission mount expansion plug. 4. Install the left front splash shield. 5. Install the
left front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Installation in Tires and Wheels. 6. Lower the
vehicle.
7. Install the upper transmission support assembly bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6520
8. Remove the engine support fixture. 9. Connect the negative battery cable.
A/T Mount Replacement (Side)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 3. Remove the right front tire and
the wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal in Tires and Wheels. 4. Remove the right front
splash shield. 5. Remove the transmission brace bolts.
6. Remove the transmission brace.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6521
1. Install the transmission brace.
2. Install the transmission brace to engine bolts. 3. Install the transmission brace to transmission
bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 66 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the right front splash shield. 5. Install the right front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
Wheel Installation in Tires and Wheels. 6. Lower the vehicle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6530
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6531
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
6537
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
6538
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6539
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6540
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6543
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6544
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6545
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Transmission Speed Sensor: Specifications
Sensor, Output Speed (Stud)-M6 x 1.0 x 15.0 (Qty 1)
........................................................................................................................ 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Speed Sensor Housing To Case
.............................................................................................................................................................
11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6549
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) lead from the transaxle. 2. Remove the VSS bolt. 3.
Remove the VSS retainer.
4. Remove the VSS assembly. 5. Remove the O-ring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 6552
1. Lubricate a new O-ring with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent. 2.
Install the new O-ring. 3. Install the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) assembly. 4. Install the VSS
retainer. 5. Install the VSS bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Connect the VSS lead to the transaxle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 6553
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Disconnect the electrical
connector. 3. Remove the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
4. Remove the vehicle speed sensor from the case extension.
5. Remove the O-ring from the vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the O-ring onto the vehicle speed sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 6554
2. Install the vehicle speed sensor into the case extension.
3. Install the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811
Valve Body: Customer Interest A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811
Bulletin No.: 07-07-30-025
Date: October 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Information On 4T40-E (MN4) and 4T45-E (MN5) Front Wheel Drive Automatic
Transmission Valve Body Reconditioning, DTC P0741, P0742, P0751, P0752, P0756, P0757,
P1811, Harsh Shifts, Slips, No Drive, No Reverse
Models: 1997-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2007 Chevrolet Malibu 2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt
2006-2007 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx, HHR 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2004 Oldsmobile
Alero 1997-2005 Pontiac Sunfire 1999-2005 Pontiac Grand Am 2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit
(Canada Only) 2005-2007 Pontiac G6 2007 Pontiac GS 2000-2005 Saturn L-Series 2005-2007
Saturn ION, VUE 2007 Saturn Aura
with Hydra-Matic(R) 4T40-E (RPO MN4) and 4T45-E (RPO MN5) Automatic Transmission
The following new service information outlined in this bulletin will aid technicians in providing easy
to follow valve body reconditioning instructions and new illustrations to simplify reassembly of the
valve body. The service bulletin will also provide additional service information documents that are
related to the 4L6x transmission family.
Related Service Documents
PIP 3253B - No Move Drive or Reverse
02-07-30-039F - Firm Transmission Shifts
02-07-30-050 - Engineering Change Valve Body
If valve body cleaning is not required, Do Not disassembly bores unless it is necessary to verify
movement of valves.
Inspection Procedure
Using the exploded views in this bulletin, inspect each bore for freedom of valve(s) movement and
evidence of debris. Pay particular attention to those valves related to the customer's concern.
Verify movement of the valves in their normal installed position. Valves may become restricted
during removal or installation. This is normal due to small tolerances between the valves and
bores.
If a valve is restricted and cannot be corrected by cleaning valve and bore, then replace valve
body. Describe restricted valve on repair order.
Be sure all solenoids are installed with the electrical connectors facing the non-machined (cast)
side of the valve body; otherwise, the solenoids will bind against the transmission case as the valve
body bolts are tightened and damage may occur.
Disassembly/Reassembly
If a valve is restricted by a metal burr from machining that bore, remove valve and burr, then
inspect movement in the valve's normal position. If no other debris or restrictions are found, then
reassemble valve body and install in the transmission.
If the valve body has been contaminated with debris from another transmission component failure,
then disassemble all bores for complete cleaning of all valve body components. If possible keep
individual bore parts separated for ease of reassembly. Use the following illustrations in this bulletin
for a
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6563
positive identification and location of individual parts:
Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Metric)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6564
Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6565
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6566
Left Side Control Valve Body Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6567
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6568
Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly
Control Valve Body Assembly Chart, Valve Springs and Bore Plugs
Using GM Brake Clean, or equivalent, in a safe and clean environment (clean aluminum pan) clean
the valve body and dry it with compressed air. Use appropriate eye protection.
Clean individual valve body components with GM Brake Clean, or equivalent. Coat each valve with
clean ATF and reassemble in each bore. Check each valve for free movement during assembly of
each bore.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-07-30-036H >
Jan > 09 > A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-036H
Date: January 29, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips for Automatic Transmission DTC P0756, Second, Third, Fourth Gear Start
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32 or M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year and add details regarding spacer plates.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-036G (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some dealership technicians may have difficulty diagnosing DTC P0756, 2-3 Shift Valve
Performance on 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E automatic transmissions. As detailed in the Service
Manual, when the PCM detects a 4-3-3-4 shift pattern, DTC P0756 will set. Some customers may
also describe a condition of a second, third or fourth gear start that may have the same causes but
has not set this DTC yet. Below are some tips when diagnosing this DTC:
^ This is a performance code. This means that a mechanical malfunction exists.
^ This code is not set by electrical issues such as a damaged wiring harness or poor electrical
connections. Electrical problems would cause a DTC P0758, P0787 or P0788 to set.
^ The most likely cause is chips/debris plugging the filtered AFL oil at orifice # 29 on the top of the
spacer plate (48). This is a very small hole and is easily plugged by a small amount of debris. It is
important to remove the spacer plate and inspect orifice # 29 and the immediate area for the
presence of chips/debris. Also, the transmission case passage directly above this orifice and the
valve body passage directly below should be inspected and cleaned of any chips/debris. For 2003
and newer vehicles the spacer plate should be replaced. The service replacement spacer plate is a
bonded style with gaskets and solenoid filter screens bonded to the spacer plate. These screens
can help to prevent plugging of orifice # 29 caused by small debris or chips.
^ This code could be set if the 2-3 shift valve (368) were stuck or hung-up in its bore. Inspect the
2-3 shift valve (368) and the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) for free movement or damage and clean the
valves, the bore and the valve body passages.
^ This code could be set by a 2-3 shift solenoid (367b) if it were cracked, broken or leaking. Refer
to Shift Solenoid Leak Test in the appropriate Service Manual for the leak test procedure. Based on
parts return findings, a damaged or leaking shift solenoid is the least likely cause of this condition.
Simply replacing a shift solenoid will not correct this condition unless the solenoid has been found
to be cracked, broken or leaking.
It is important to also refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Service Information (SI) for further
possible causes of this condition.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 07-07-30-025 >
Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811
Bulletin No.: 07-07-30-025
Date: October 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Information On 4T40-E (MN4) and 4T45-E (MN5) Front Wheel Drive Automatic
Transmission Valve Body Reconditioning, DTC P0741, P0742, P0751, P0752, P0756, P0757,
P1811, Harsh Shifts, Slips, No Drive, No Reverse
Models: 1997-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2007 Chevrolet Malibu 2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt
2006-2007 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx, HHR 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2004 Oldsmobile
Alero 1997-2005 Pontiac Sunfire 1999-2005 Pontiac Grand Am 2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit
(Canada Only) 2005-2007 Pontiac G6 2007 Pontiac GS 2000-2005 Saturn L-Series 2005-2007
Saturn ION, VUE 2007 Saturn Aura
with Hydra-Matic(R) 4T40-E (RPO MN4) and 4T45-E (RPO MN5) Automatic Transmission
The following new service information outlined in this bulletin will aid technicians in providing easy
to follow valve body reconditioning instructions and new illustrations to simplify reassembly of the
valve body. The service bulletin will also provide additional service information documents that are
related to the 4L6x transmission family.
Related Service Documents
PIP 3253B - No Move Drive or Reverse
02-07-30-039F - Firm Transmission Shifts
02-07-30-050 - Engineering Change Valve Body
If valve body cleaning is not required, Do Not disassembly bores unless it is necessary to verify
movement of valves.
Inspection Procedure
Using the exploded views in this bulletin, inspect each bore for freedom of valve(s) movement and
evidence of debris. Pay particular attention to those valves related to the customer's concern.
Verify movement of the valves in their normal installed position. Valves may become restricted
during removal or installation. This is normal due to small tolerances between the valves and
bores.
If a valve is restricted and cannot be corrected by cleaning valve and bore, then replace valve
body. Describe restricted valve on repair order.
Be sure all solenoids are installed with the electrical connectors facing the non-machined (cast)
side of the valve body; otherwise, the solenoids will bind against the transmission case as the valve
body bolts are tightened and damage may occur.
Disassembly/Reassembly
If a valve is restricted by a metal burr from machining that bore, remove valve and burr, then
inspect movement in the valve's normal position. If no other debris or restrictions are found, then
reassemble valve body and install in the transmission.
If the valve body has been contaminated with debris from another transmission component failure,
then disassemble all bores for complete cleaning of all valve body components. If possible keep
individual bore parts separated for ease of reassembly. Use the following illustrations in this bulletin
for a
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 07-07-30-025 >
Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6578
positive identification and location of individual parts:
Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Metric)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 07-07-30-025 >
Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6579
Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 07-07-30-025 >
Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6580
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 07-07-30-025 >
Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6581
Left Side Control Valve Body Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 07-07-30-025 >
Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6582
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 07-07-30-025 >
Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 6583
Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly
Control Valve Body Assembly Chart, Valve Springs and Bore Plugs
Using GM Brake Clean, or equivalent, in a safe and clean environment (clean aluminum pan) clean
the valve body and dry it with compressed air. Use appropriate eye protection.
Clean individual valve body components with GM Brake Clean, or equivalent. Coat each valve with
clean ATF and reassemble in each bore. Check each valve for free movement during assembly of
each bore.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-07-30-036H > Jan >
09 > A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-036H
Date: January 29, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips for Automatic Transmission DTC P0756, Second, Third, Fourth Gear Start
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32 or M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year and add details regarding spacer plates.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-036G (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some dealership technicians may have difficulty diagnosing DTC P0756, 2-3 Shift Valve
Performance on 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E automatic transmissions. As detailed in the Service
Manual, when the PCM detects a 4-3-3-4 shift pattern, DTC P0756 will set. Some customers may
also describe a condition of a second, third or fourth gear start that may have the same causes but
has not set this DTC yet. Below are some tips when diagnosing this DTC:
^ This is a performance code. This means that a mechanical malfunction exists.
^ This code is not set by electrical issues such as a damaged wiring harness or poor electrical
connections. Electrical problems would cause a DTC P0758, P0787 or P0788 to set.
^ The most likely cause is chips/debris plugging the filtered AFL oil at orifice # 29 on the top of the
spacer plate (48). This is a very small hole and is easily plugged by a small amount of debris. It is
important to remove the spacer plate and inspect orifice # 29 and the immediate area for the
presence of chips/debris. Also, the transmission case passage directly above this orifice and the
valve body passage directly below should be inspected and cleaned of any chips/debris. For 2003
and newer vehicles the spacer plate should be replaced. The service replacement spacer plate is a
bonded style with gaskets and solenoid filter screens bonded to the spacer plate. These screens
can help to prevent plugging of orifice # 29 caused by small debris or chips.
^ This code could be set if the 2-3 shift valve (368) were stuck or hung-up in its bore. Inspect the
2-3 shift valve (368) and the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) for free movement or damage and clean the
valves, the bore and the valve body passages.
^ This code could be set by a 2-3 shift solenoid (367b) if it were cracked, broken or leaking. Refer
to Shift Solenoid Leak Test in the appropriate Service Manual for the leak test procedure. Based on
parts return findings, a damaged or leaking shift solenoid is the least likely cause of this condition.
Simply replacing a shift solenoid will not correct this condition unless the solenoid has been found
to be cracked, broken or leaking.
It is important to also refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Service Information (SI) for further
possible causes of this condition.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6589
Valve Body: Specifications
Valve Body To Case ............................................................................................................................
..................................................... 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) Valve Body To Case ........................................
........................................................................................................................................... 11 Nm (8
ft. lbs.) Valve Body To Case Cover .....................................................................................................
.................................................................. 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.) Valve Body To Case Cover ...................
..................................................................................................................................................... 11
Nm (8 ft. lbs.) Valve Body To Driven Sprocket Support
................................................................................................................................................. 24 Nm
(18 ft. lbs.) Oil Pan And Valve Body Cover ..........................................................................................
....................................................................... 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 3T40 (MD9) Automatic Transaxle
Valve Body: Locations 3T40 (MD9) Automatic Transaxle
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 3T40 (MD9) Automatic Transaxle > Page 6592
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 3T40 (MD9) Automatic Transaxle > Page 6593
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 3T40 (MD9) Automatic Transaxle > Page 6594
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 3T40 (MD9) Automatic Transaxle > Page 6595
Valve Body: Locations 4T40-E (MN4) Automatic Transaxle
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 3T40 (MD9) Automatic Transaxle > Page 6596
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Valve Body Cover Replacement
Valve Body: Service and Repair Valve Body Cover Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the transmission bracket. 3. Remove the control valve body cover bolts.
4. Remove the control valve body cover. 5. Remove the valve body cover gasket.
6. Determine if the washer is inverted on the bolts.
IMPORTANT: Use Sealant compound GM P/N 12345282, or equivalent in order to reduce the
potential for oil leaks on bolts.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Valve Body Cover Replacement > Page 6599
1. Install the valve body cover gasket. 2. Install the control valve body cover.
3. Install the control valve body cover bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the transmission mount bracket. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Valve Body Cover Replacement > Page 6600
Valve Body: Service and Repair Auxiliary Valve Body, Valve Body Pump Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the TV cable from the transmission. Refer to TV Cable Replacement. 3. Remove the
transmission mount bracket. 4. Remove the valve body cover. Refer to Valve Body Cover
Replacement. 5. Remove the bolt that secures the TCC solenoid to the valve body.
6. Remove the TCC solenoid.
7. Remove the TCC solenoid wiring connector from the case connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Valve Body Cover Replacement > Page 6601
8. Disconnect the TCC wires from the pressure switches.
9. Remove the TV lever bolts from the control valve body.
10. Remove the TV lever. 11. Remove the TV cable link.
12. Remove the remaining bolts that secure the valve body to the case cover.
IMPORTANT: Do not lose the six check balls. Do not remove the green bolt.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Valve Body Cover Replacement > Page 6602
13. Remove the valve body from the case cover. 14. Remove the green bolt.
15. Separate the valve body from the oil pump assembly.
IMPORTANT: If any service is required on the valve body and/or oil pump, refer to the 3T40 Unit
Repair.
16. Remove the check ball behind the control valve assembly.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 36850 TRANSJEL(R)
1. Install the check ball behind the oil pump assembly. 2. Install the control valve body to the oil
pump assembly. 3. Install the check ball in the valve body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Valve Body Cover Replacement > Page 6603
4. Install the green bolt. If necessary, use or equivalent, in order to hold in place.
NOTICE: Use TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent during assembly in order to retain checkballs
or to lubricate components. Greases other than the recommended assembly lube will change the
transmission fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.
5. Install the valve body to the case cover.
6. Install the valve body to case cover bolts.
7. Install the TV lever. 8. Install the TV cable link.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Valve Body Cover Replacement > Page 6604
9. Install the TV lever bolts to the control valve body.
10. Connect the TCC wires and the wiring connectors.
11. Install the TCC solenoid.
12. Install the TCC solenoid bolt to the valve body. 13. Install the valve body cover with a new
gasket. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 14. Install the transmission mount bracket. 15.
Install the TV cable to the transmission. Refer to TV Cable Replacement. 16. Connect the negative
battery cable. 17. Adjust the TV cable. Refer to TV Cable Adjustment. 18. Inspect the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Disc, M/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Clutch Disc: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Disconnect the clutch actuator cylinder line.
3. Remove the clutch master cylinder assembly from the clutch actuator cylinder. 4. Remove the
transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Manual Transmission.
5. Remove the clutch cover bolts one turn at a time, until spring pressure is relieved.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Disc, M/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6609
6. Remove the clutch cover and the clutch disc.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 29074 Clutch Alignment Arbor
1. Align the Heavy Side of the flywheel assembly (stamped with an X), with the clutch cover Light
Side (marked with paint).
2. Install the J 29074 in order to support the clutch cover to the flywheel assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Disc, M/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6610
3. Install the clutch cover to flywheel bolts.
3.1. Follow the tightening sequence. Tighten the bolts to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.). 3.2. Tighten the bolts
to specifications. Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Lubricate the inside diameter of the bearing with GM P/N 12345777, or equivalent. 5. Install the
transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Manual Transmission.
6. Install the clutch master cylinder assembly to the clutch actuator cylinder.
7. Connect the clutch actuator cylinder line. 8. Bleed the hydraulic system. Refer to Hydraulic
Clutch Bleeding. 9. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Fluid >
Component Information > Specifications
Clutch Fluid: Specifications
Hydraulic Clutch Fluid (GM P/N 12345347 or equivalent).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Fluid >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6615
Clutch Fluid: Service and Repair
NOTICE: Do not reuse the fluid that has been bled from a system in order to fill the clutch master
cylinder reservoir for the following reasons:
1. The fluid may be aerated 2. The fluid may be contaminated 3. The fluid may contain too much
moisture
IMPORTANT: Maintain the fluid level in the clutch reservoir to the top step with GM P/N 12345347,
or equivalent.
1. Clean dirt and grease from the cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the
system. 2. Attach a hose to the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator assembly. Submerge the
other end of the hose in a container of Hydraulic Clutch Fluid
GM P/N 12345347, or equivalent.
3. Depress the clutch pedal slowly and hold. 4. Loosen the bleeder screw to purge air. 5. ^
Tighten the bleeder screw to 2 Nm (18 inch lbs.)
6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 until air is purged. 7. Fill reservoir to the top step with GM P/N
12345347, or equivalent. 8. Repeat the bleeding procedure if there is a grinding noise during the
clutch spin down procedure. Refer to Clutch Spin Down Time. See: Testing
and Inspection
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Master
Cylinder > Component Information > Specifications
Clutch Master Cylinder: Specifications
Clutch Master Cylinder and Clutch Pedal Bracket Nut
........................................................................................................................ 21 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Master
Cylinder > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6619
Clutch Master Cylinder: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Refer to Insulator Replacement - IP in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators. 3. Remove the clutch master cylinder pushrod
from the clutch pedal. 4. Remove the master cylinder retaining nuts at the front of the dash.
5. Remove the remote reservoir.
6. Disconnect the clutch actuator cylinder line.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Master
Cylinder > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6620
7. Remove the clutch master cylinder assembly from the clutch actuator cylinder.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the clutch master cylinder assembly to the clutch actuator cylinder. 2. Connect the clutch
actuator cylinder line.
3. Install the remote reservoir.
4. Install the master cylinder retaining nuts at the front of the dash.
^ Tighten the nuts evenly to 21 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Master
Cylinder > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6621
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
5. Install the pushrod to the clutch pedal. 6. Adjust the cruise control clutch switch, if equipped.
Refer to Cruise Control Cable Adjustment (LN2) or Cruise Control Cable Adjustment (LD9)
in Cruise Control.
7. Install the sound insulator. Refer to Insulator Replacement - IP in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators. 8. Bleed the hydraulic system. Refer to Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding. 9. Connect
the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Slave
Cylinder > Component Information > Specifications
Clutch Slave Cylinder: Specifications
Clutch Actuator Bleed Screw
..............................................................................................................................................................
2 Nm (18 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Slave
Cylinder > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6625
Clutch Slave Cylinder: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Disconnect the clutch actuator cylinder line.
3. Remove the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement.
4. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder from the transmission.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Slave
Cylinder > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6626
1. Lubricate the inside diameter of the bearing with GM P/N 12345777, or equivalent. 2. Install the
clutch actuator cylinder to the transmission. 3. Install the transmission. Refer to Transmission
Replacement.
4. Connect the clutch actuator cylinder line. 5. Bleed the hydraulic system. Refer to Hydraulic
Clutch Bleeding. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Pedal Assembly > Component
Information > Specifications
Clutch Pedal Assembly: Specifications
Clutch Master Cylinder and Clutch Pedal Bracket Nut
........................................................................................................................ 21 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Pedal Assembly > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6630
Clutch Pedal Assembly: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Service the clutch pedal and bracket as an assembly.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Refer to Insulator Replacement - IP in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators. 3. Remove the clutch master cylinder pushrod
from the clutch pedal. 4. Remove the clutch pedal and bracket mounting nuts.
5. Remove the clutch pedal and bracket assembly.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Pedal Assembly > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6631
1. Install the clutch pedal and bracket assembly.
2. Install the clutch pedal and bracket mounting nuts.
^ Start with the lower nuts, tighten the nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the clutch master cylinder pushrod bushing on the pedal. Lubricate the bushing. 4. Install
the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal. 5. Adjust the cruise control clutch switch, if
equipped. Refer to Cruise Control Cable Adjustment (LN2) or Cruise Control Cable Adjustment
(LD9)
in Cruise Control.
6. Install the sound insulator. Refer to Insulator Replacement - IP in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6635
Clutch Pedal Position Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Pressure Plate > Component Information >
Specifications
Pressure Plate: Specifications
Clutch Cover to Flywheel Bolt .............................................................................................................
.............................................................................................. 16 Nm (12 ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Pressure Plate > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6639
Pressure Plate: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Disconnect the clutch actuator cylinder line.
3. Remove the clutch master cylinder assembly from the clutch actuator cylinder. 4. Remove the
transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Manual Transmission.
5. Remove the clutch cover bolts one turn at a time, until spring pressure is relieved.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Pressure Plate > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6640
6. Remove the clutch cover and the clutch disc.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 29074 Clutch Alignment Arbor
1. Align the Heavy Side of the flywheel assembly (stamped with an X), with the clutch cover Light
Side (marked with paint).
2. Install the J 29074 in order to support the clutch cover to the flywheel assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Pressure Plate > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6641
3. Install the clutch cover to flywheel bolts.
3.1. Follow the tightening sequence. Tighten the bolts to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.). 3.2. Tighten the bolts
to specifications. Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Lubricate the inside diameter of the bearing with GM P/N 12345777, or equivalent. 5. Install the
transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Manual Transmission.
6. Install the clutch master cylinder assembly to the clutch actuator cylinder.
7. Connect the clutch actuator cylinder line. 8. Bleed the hydraulic system. Refer to Hydraulic
Clutch Bleeding. 9. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Shift Lock Control Feature Function
Shift Interlock: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Lock Control Feature Function
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-043A
Date: May 25, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Information Regarding Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control Function
Models: 2007 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
with Automatic Transmission
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-07-30-043 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to better
explain how the Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control (formerly known as Brake Transmission
Shift Interlock (BTSI)) feature is intended to operate. Revised wording regarding the shift lock
control system began appearing in the Owner Manuals beginning with the 2004 model year.
The shift lock control feature was intended to prevent drivers from shifting out of Park with the
vehicle running without the brakes applied. However, if the ignition switch is in the Accessory
(ACC) position, it may be possible on some vehicles to move the shift lever out of Park WITHOUT
first activating the brake.
The shift lock control system is ONLY active when the ignition switch is in the RUN or ON position.
This means that when the ignition switch is in the RUN or ON position, the shift lever cannot be
moved out of the Park position without activating the brake.
Some owners may feel that the shift lock control system prevents an unattended child from moving
the vehicle. Please stress to owners, as stated in the Owner Manual, that children should NEVER
be left unattended in a vehicle, even if the ignition key has been removed from the vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L)
Constant Velocity Joint: Service and Repair Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L)
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 8039-A Snap Ring Pliers
IMPORTANT: Do not cut through boot and damage sealing surface of outer housing (1).
1. Remove the small retaining clamp from the halfshaft bar (4) with a side cutter. Discard the small
retaining clamp. 2. Remove the larger boot retaining clamp from the inboard joint with a side cutter.
Discard the boot retaining clamp. 3. Separate the housing assembly (1) from the boot at large
diameter.
4. Slide boot away from joint along halfshaft bar. 5. Before removing the tripot spider assembly (3)
from the halfshaft bar, perform the following procedure: 6. Remove the spacer ring (2) from the end
of the halfshaft bar using J 8039-A.
IMPORTANT: Never reuse the spacer ring (2).
7. Place a brass drift on the area of the tripot spider (1) next to the halfshaft bar (3). 8. Tap on the
brass drift with the hammer. 9. Remove the tripot spider assembly (1) from the halfshaft bar (3).
IMPORTANT: Handle the tripot spider assembly (1) with care.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6653
10. Remove the spacer ring (1) from the shoulder of the halfshaft bar using J 8039-A. 11. Clean the
following items thoroughly with cleaning solvent. Removing all traces of old grease and any
contaminates.
^ The tripot balls
^ The needle rollers
^ The housing
12. Dry all the parts. 13. Remove the boot from the halfshaft bar. 14. Inspect the following parts for
damage or wear:
^ The joint boot
^ The spider (3)
^ The housing
^ The tripot balls
^ The needle rollers
^ The retaining ring (1)
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 35910 Seal Clamp Tool
1. Install the new small boot retaining clamp on the neck of the boot. 2. Do not crimp the small boot
retaining clamp. 3. Clean the halfshaft bar. Use a wire brush to remove any rust in the boot
mounting area (grooves). 4. Slide the tripot boot onto the halfshaft bar, passing the boot grooves of
the halfshaft bar toward the CV end of the halfshaft bar. 5. Place the new spacer ring (1) next to the
shoulder on the halfshaft bar.
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the spacer ring (1) is next to the shoulder of the halfshaft bar before
installing the tripot spider (3).
6. Place the tripot spider assembly (3) onto the halfshaft bar.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6654
7. Place the halfshaft assembly onto the arbor press.
^ The tripot spider assembly must be on the press plate.
^ The CV joint assembly must be under the press head.
8. Lower the arbor press head onto the CV joint assembly until the tripot spider is next to the
spacer ring. Do not exceed 4,000 lbs. press load during
assembly.
9. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the arbor press.
10. Place the new spacer ring (2) on the halfshaft bar groove at the end of the halfshaft bar.
11. Slide the tripot boot (7) the corresponding groove on the halfshaft bar. 12. Crimp the small boot
retaining clamp (6) using J 35910. 13. Place approximately a 1/4 of the grease from the service kit
in boot. Use the remainder to repack the housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6655
14. Slide the housing (1) over the spider assembly on the shaft (2). Engage the tripot boot. 15.
Position the large boot retaining clamp around the tripot boot (3).
IMPORTANT: The end of the tripot boot (3) must be next to the boot stop on the housing (1).
16. Position joint assembly at the proper vehicle dimension.
IMPORTANT: The boot (2) must not be dimpled, stretched or out of shape in any way. If the boot
(2) is not shaped correctly, carefully equalize pressure by disassembling and reassembling the
housing (4) into the large boot opening at proper vehicle dimension.
IMPORTANT: Align the following items while latching:
^ The boot
^ The housing (1)
^ The large boot retaining clamp (2)
17. Crimp the large boot retaining clamp (2) with J 35910.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6656
Constant Velocity Joint: Service and Repair Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Free 2.4L)
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
- J 8059 Snap Ring Pliers
- J 38868 Stub Shaft Removal Tool
- J 6125-1B Impact Slide Hammer
IMPORTANT: The transaxle stub shaft may disengage from the transaxle during halfshaft tripot
removal. If this condition occurs, transaxle fluid may leak from the transaxle through the stub shaft
location.
1. Perform the following steps if the transaxle stub shaft has disengaged into the female tripot
housing on removal from transaxle. 2. Remove the snap ring from the stub shaft.
IMPORTANT: Never reuse the snap ring.
3. Discard the snap ring.
4. Connect the J 38868 to the snap ring groove on the stub shaft and connect an J 6125-1A to the
J 38868. 5. Use the J 6125-1A to remove the shaft from the tripot housing. 6. Install new snap rings
onto the stub shaft. 7. Refer to the transaxle unit repair for the proper installation of the stub shaft
into the transaxle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6657
8. Remove the small boot retaining clamp from the halfshaft bar with a side cutter.
IMPORTANT: Do not cut through the halfshaft inboard boot and damage sealing surface of the
outer housing and the trilobal tripot bushing.
9. Discard the small boot retaining clamp.
10. Remove the large boot retaining clamp from the tripot joint with side cutter. 11. Discard the
large boot retaining clamp. 12. Separate the tripot boot from the trilobal tripot bushing at the large
diameter. 13. Slide the boot away from the joint along the halfshaft bar. 14. Remove the housing
from the tripot joint spider and the halfshaft bar. 15. Spread spacer ring (2) with J 8059. 16. Slide
the spacer ring (2) and tripot joint spider back on halfshaft bar (1). 17. Remove the halfshaft bar
retaining ring from the groove on the halfshaft bar (1).
18. Slide tripot joint spider assembly off of the halfshaft bar (1). 19. Clean the following items with
cleaning solvent:
^ The tripot balls
^ The needle rollers
^ The housing
20. Remove all traces of old grease and any contaminates. Dry all the parts. 21. Remove the
trilobal tripot bushing from the housing. 22. Remove the spacer ring (2) and the boot (3) from the
halfshaft bar. 23. Inspect the following parts for damage or wear:
^ The halfshaft inboard boot (3)
^ The tripot joint spider assembly (1)
^ The housing
^ The trilobal tripot bushing
^ The tripot balls
^ The needle rollers
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 8059 Snap Ring Pliers
- J 35566 Earless Seal Clamp Tool
- J 35910 Seal Clamp Tool
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6658
1. Install the new small boot retaining clamp (2) on the neck of the tripot boot (1). 2. Do not crimp
the small boot retaining clamp. 3. Clean the halfshaft bar. Use a wire brush to remove any rust in
the boot mounting area (grooves). 4. Slide the tripot boot (7) onto the halfshaft bar. 5. Position the
neck of the tripot boot in the boot groove (3) on the halfshaft bar.
Crimp the boot retaining clamp (6). ^
Crimp the boot retaining clamp using J 35910 to 136 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Install the spacer ring (2) on the halfshaft bar (1) and beyond the second groove.
7. Slide the tripot joint spider assembly (3) toward the spacer ring as far as it will go on the halfshaft
bar.
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the counterbored face of the tripot joint spider (4) faces end of the
halfshaft bar.
8. Install the halfshaft bar retaining ring (2) in the groove of the halfshaft bar using J 8059. 9. Slide
the tripot joint spider assembly (3) towards the end of the halfshaft bar.
10. Reseat the spacer ring in the groove on the halfshaft bar. 11. Place approximately half of the
grease from the service kit in the halfshaft inboard boot. Use the remainder of the grease to repack
the housing.
Ensure the bushing is flush with the face of the housing.
12. Install the trilobal tripot bushing to housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6659
13. Position the larger new clamp (3) on the halfshaft inboard boot (2). 14. Slide the housing (4)
over the tripot joint spider assembly on the halfshaft bar (1). 15. Slide the large diameter of the
halfshaft inboard boot (2), with the larger clamp (3) in place, over the outside of the trilobal tripot
bushing. 16. Locate the lip of the boot in the groove. 17. Position the joint assembly at the proper
vehicle dimension.
IMPORTANT: Align the following items while latching:
^ The halfshaft inboard boot (3)
^ The housing (1)
^ The large clamp (2)
IMPORTANT: The halfshaft inboard boot (3) must not be dimpled, stretched out or out of shape in
any way. If the halfshaft inboard boot (3) is not shaped correctly, carefully insert a thin, flat, blunt
tool (no sharp edges) between the large boot opening and the trilobal tripot bushing to equalize the
pressure. Shape the halfshaft inboard boot (3) properly by hand. Remove the thin, flat, blunt tool.
18. Latch the boot retaining clamp (2) using J 35566.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6660
Constant Velocity Joint: Service and Repair Wheel Drive Shaft Outer Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L)
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 41398 CV Puller
- J 2619-01 Slide Hammer Assembly
IMPORTANT: Due to the helical splines on the halfshaft bar, disassembly and assembly of the
joints will be difficult. Follow the instructions provided.
1. Remove the large boot retaining clamp from the CV joint with a side cutter. Discard the large
boot retaining clamp. 2. Remove the small boot retaining clamp from the halfshaft bar with a side
cutter and discard. 3. Separate the CV joint boot from the CV joint race (2) at the large diameter. 4.
Slide the boot away from the joint along the halfshaft bar. 5. Wipe the grease from the face of the
CV joint inner race (1). 6. Before removing the CV joint assembly from the halfshaft bar, perform
the following procedure:
6.1. Choose a reference mark (B) on the halfshaft bar. 6.2. Measure the distance between the
reference mark (B) and the face of the CV joint inner race (1). Make a note of this measurement.
The
measurement is (A).
7. Clamp the halfshaft (1) into a vise.
8. Attach the J 41398 to the threaded area of the outer race (2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6661
9. Attach J 2619-01 onto the outer end of the J 41398.
10. Use the J 2619-01 to remove the CV joint from the halfshaft bar. 11. Remove J 2619-01 and J
41398 from the CV joint. 12. Remove the retaining ring from the halfshaft bar.
Discard the retaining ring.
IMPORTANT: Never reuse the retaining ring.
13. Remove the CV joint boot (1) from the halfshaft bar.
14. Place a brass drift against the CV joint cage (1). 15. Tap gently on the brass drift with a
hammer in order to tilt the cage (1). 16. Remove the first chrome alloy ball (2) when the CV joint
cage (1) tilts. 17. Tilt the CV joint cage (1) in the opposite direction to remove the opposing chrome
alloy ball (2). 18. Repeat this process to remove all six of the balls.
19. Pivot the CV joint cage (4) and the inner race 90 degrees to the centerline of the outer race (1).
At the same time, align the cage windows with the
lands of the outer race (2).
20. Lift out the cage (4) and the inner race.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6662
21. Remove the inner race (1) from the cage (2) by rotating the inner race (1) upward. 22. Clean
the inner and outer race assemblies, the CV joint cage and the chrome alloy balls thoroughly with
cleaning solvent. Remove all traces of old
grease and any contaminates.
23. Dry all the parts. 24. Check the CV joint assembly for unusual wear, cracks, or other damage.
25. Replace any damaged parts. 26. Clean the halfshaft bar. Use a wire brush to remove any rust
in the boot mounting area (grooves).
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 35910 Seal Clamp Tool
1. Put a light coat of grease from service kit on the ball grooves of the inner race and the outer
race. 2. Hold the inner race 90 degrees to the centerline of the cage with the lands of the inner race
(1) aligned with the windows of cage (2). 3. Insert the inner race into the cage.
4. Hold the cage and the inner race 90 degrees to the centerline of the outer race. Align the cage
windows (3) with the lands of the outer race (2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6663
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the retaining ring side of the inner race faces the outer race.
5. Install the cage and the inner race into outer race.
6. Place a brass drift against the CV joint cage (1). 7. Tap gently on the brass drift with a hammer
in order to tilt the cage (1). 8. Install the first chrome alloy ball (2) when the CV joint cage (1) tilts. 9.
Repeat this process to install all six of the balls.
10. Pack the CV joint with half of the grease supplied in the service kit.
11. Install the new small retaining clamp on the neck of the boot. Do not crimp. 12. Clean the
halfshaft bar. Use a wire brush to remove any rust in the boot mounting area (grooves). 13. Slide
the CV joint boot onto the halfshaft bar. Expose the reference mark (B) by sliding the CV joint boot
up the halfshaft bar toward the tripot
end.
14. Position the large boot retaining clamp around the joint boot. 15. Place the new retaining ring
onto the halfshaft bar. 16. While supporting the tripot assembly, place the halfshaft assembly onto
the arbor press with the CV assembly under the press head. 17. Lower the arbor press head onto
the CV joint assembly until the press cannot move any further. This ensures that the retaining ring
engages in the
inner race. Do not exceed 4,000 lbs. press load during assembly.
18. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the arbor press.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6664
19. Measure the distance between the reference mark on the halfshaft bar (B) and the face of the
CV joint inner race (1). 20. Compare the mark with the measurement made before disassembly.
The distance measured after assembly must be within +-1 mm of the distance
measured before disassembly.
21. Repeat the previous four steps if the current measurement does not match the measurement
made before disassembly.
22. Place the neck of the CV joint boot into the boot groove on the halfshaft bar.
IMPORTANT: Check the clamp position during the crimping operation in order to ensure the clamp
(1) is positioned correctly around the entire circumference.
23. Crimp the small retaining clamp (1) by using J 35910. 24. Place the remaining grease from the
service kit inside the boot.
25. Measure approximately 17.5 mm up from the bottom edge of the CV outer joint assembly. 26.
Slide the large diameter of the boot with the large boot retaining clamp in place over the outside of
CV joint.
IMPORTANT: The CV joint boot must not be dimpled, stretched or out of shape in any way. If boot
is not shaped correctly, equalize pressure in the boot and shape the boot properly by hand.
27. Locate the boot lip to the ridge of the CV outer joint assembly as measured in the previous
step.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot Replacement
(Tripot 2.2L) > Page 6665
28. Crimp boot retaining clamp (1).
^ Crimp boot retaining clamp with J 35910 176 Nm (130 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint
Constant Velocity Joint Boot: Service and Repair Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 8039-A Snap Ring Pliers
IMPORTANT: Do not cut through boot and damage sealing surface of outer housing (1).
1. Remove the small retaining clamp from the halfshaft bar (4) with a side cutter. Discard the small
retaining clamp. 2. Remove the larger boot retaining clamp from the inboard joint with a side cutter.
Discard the boot retaining clamp. 3. Separate the housing assembly (1) from the boot at large
diameter.
4. Slide boot away from joint along halfshaft bar. 5. Before removing the tripot spider assembly (3)
from the halfshaft bar, perform the following procedure: 6. Remove the spacer ring (2) from the end
of the halfshaft bar using J 8039-A.
IMPORTANT: Never reuse the spacer ring (2).
7. Place a brass drift on the area of the tripot spider (1) next to the halfshaft bar (3). 8. Tap on the
brass drift with the hammer. 9. Remove the tripot spider assembly (1) from the halfshaft bar (3).
IMPORTANT: Handle the tripot spider assembly (1) with care.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint > Page 6670
10. Remove the spacer ring (1) from the shoulder of the halfshaft bar using J 8039-A. 11. Clean the
following items thoroughly with cleaning solvent. Removing all traces of old grease and any
contaminates.
^ The tripot balls
^ The needle rollers
^ The housing
12. Dry all the parts. 13. Remove the boot from the halfshaft bar. 14. Inspect the following parts for
damage or wear:
^ The joint boot
^ The spider (3)
^ The housing
^ The tripot balls
^ The needle rollers
^ The retaining ring (1)
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 35910 Seal Clamp Tool
1. Install the new small boot retaining clamp on the neck of the boot. 2. Do not crimp the small boot
retaining clamp. 3. Clean the halfshaft bar. Use a wire brush to remove any rust in the boot
mounting area (grooves). 4. Slide the tripot boot onto the halfshaft bar, passing the boot grooves of
the halfshaft bar toward the CV end of the halfshaft bar. 5. Place the new spacer ring (1) next to the
shoulder on the halfshaft bar.
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the spacer ring (1) is next to the shoulder of the halfshaft bar before
installing the tripot spider (3).
6. Place the tripot spider assembly (3) onto the halfshaft bar.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint > Page 6671
7. Place the halfshaft assembly onto the arbor press.
^ The tripot spider assembly must be on the press plate.
^ The CV joint assembly must be under the press head.
8. Lower the arbor press head onto the CV joint assembly until the tripot spider is next to the
spacer ring. Do not exceed 4,000 lbs. press load during
assembly.
9. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the arbor press.
10. Place the new spacer ring (2) on the halfshaft bar groove at the end of the halfshaft bar.
11. Slide the tripot boot (7) the corresponding groove on the halfshaft bar. 12. Crimp the small boot
retaining clamp (6) using J 35910. 13. Place approximately a 1/4 of the grease from the service kit
in boot. Use the remainder to repack the housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint > Page 6672
14. Slide the housing (1) over the spider assembly on the shaft (2). Engage the tripot boot. 15.
Position the large boot retaining clamp around the tripot boot (3).
IMPORTANT: The end of the tripot boot (3) must be next to the boot stop on the housing (1).
16. Position joint assembly at the proper vehicle dimension.
IMPORTANT: The boot (2) must not be dimpled, stretched or out of shape in any way. If the boot
(2) is not shaped correctly, carefully equalize pressure by disassembling and reassembling the
housing (4) into the large boot opening at proper vehicle dimension.
IMPORTANT: Align the following items while latching:
^ The boot
^ The housing (1)
^ The large boot retaining clamp (2)
17. Crimp the large boot retaining clamp (2) with J 35910.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint > Page 6673
Constant Velocity Joint Boot: Service and Repair Wheel Drive Shaft Outer Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 41398 CV Puller
- J 2619-01 Slide Hammer Assembly
IMPORTANT: Due to the helical splines on the halfshaft bar, disassembly and assembly of the
joints will be difficult. Follow the instructions provided.
1. Remove the large boot retaining clamp from the CV joint with a side cutter. Discard the large
boot retaining clamp. 2. Remove the small boot retaining clamp from the halfshaft bar with a side
cutter and discard. 3. Separate the CV joint boot from the CV joint race (2) at the large diameter. 4.
Slide the boot away from the joint along the halfshaft bar. 5. Wipe the grease from the face of the
CV joint inner race (1). 6. Before removing the CV joint assembly from the halfshaft bar, perform
the following procedure:
6.1. Choose a reference mark (B) on the halfshaft bar. 6.2. Measure the distance between the
reference mark (B) and the face of the CV joint inner race (1). Make a note of this measurement.
The
measurement is (A).
7. Clamp the halfshaft (1) into a vise.
8. Attach the J 41398 to the threaded area of the outer race (2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint > Page 6674
9. Attach J 2619-01 onto the outer end of the J 41398.
10. Use the J 2619-01 to remove the CV joint from the halfshaft bar. 11. Remove J 2619-01 and J
41398 from the CV joint. 12. Remove the retaining ring from the halfshaft bar.
Discard the retaining ring.
IMPORTANT: Never reuse the retaining ring.
13. Remove the CV joint boot (1) from the halfshaft bar.
14. Place a brass drift against the CV joint cage (1). 15. Tap gently on the brass drift with a
hammer in order to tilt the cage (1). 16. Remove the first chrome alloy ball (2) when the CV joint
cage (1) tilts. 17. Tilt the CV joint cage (1) in the opposite direction to remove the opposing chrome
alloy ball (2). 18. Repeat this process to remove all six of the balls.
19. Pivot the CV joint cage (4) and the inner race 90 degrees to the centerline of the outer race (1).
At the same time, align the cage windows with the
lands of the outer race (2).
20. Lift out the cage (4) and the inner race.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint > Page 6675
21. Remove the inner race (1) from the cage (2) by rotating the inner race (1) upward. 22. Clean
the inner and outer race assemblies, the CV joint cage and the chrome alloy balls thoroughly with
cleaning solvent. Remove all traces of old
grease and any contaminates.
23. Dry all the parts. 24. Check the CV joint assembly for unusual wear, cracks, or other damage.
25. Replace any damaged parts. 26. Clean the halfshaft bar. Use a wire brush to remove any rust
in the boot mounting area (grooves).
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 35910 Seal Clamp Tool
1. Put a light coat of grease from service kit on the ball grooves of the inner race and the outer
race. 2. Hold the inner race 90 degrees to the centerline of the cage with the lands of the inner race
(1) aligned with the windows of cage (2). 3. Insert the inner race into the cage.
4. Hold the cage and the inner race 90 degrees to the centerline of the outer race. Align the cage
windows (3) with the lands of the outer race (2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint > Page 6676
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the retaining ring side of the inner race faces the outer race.
5. Install the cage and the inner race into outer race.
6. Place a brass drift against the CV joint cage (1). 7. Tap gently on the brass drift with a hammer
in order to tilt the cage (1). 8. Install the first chrome alloy ball (2) when the CV joint cage (1) tilts. 9.
Repeat this process to install all six of the balls.
10. Pack the CV joint with half of the grease supplied in the service kit.
11. Install the new small retaining clamp on the neck of the boot. Do not crimp. 12. Clean the
halfshaft bar. Use a wire brush to remove any rust in the boot mounting area (grooves). 13. Slide
the CV joint boot onto the halfshaft bar. Expose the reference mark (B) by sliding the CV joint boot
up the halfshaft bar toward the tripot
end.
14. Position the large boot retaining clamp around the joint boot. 15. Place the new retaining ring
onto the halfshaft bar. 16. While supporting the tripot assembly, place the halfshaft assembly onto
the arbor press with the CV assembly under the press head. 17. Lower the arbor press head onto
the CV joint assembly until the press cannot move any further. This ensures that the retaining ring
engages in the
inner race. Do not exceed 4,000 lbs. press load during assembly.
18. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the arbor press.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint > Page 6677
19. Measure the distance between the reference mark on the halfshaft bar (B) and the face of the
CV joint inner race (1). 20. Compare the mark with the measurement made before disassembly.
The distance measured after assembly must be within +-1 mm of the distance
measured before disassembly.
21. Repeat the previous four steps if the current measurement does not match the measurement
made before disassembly.
22. Place the neck of the CV joint boot into the boot groove on the halfshaft bar.
IMPORTANT: Check the clamp position during the crimping operation in order to ensure the clamp
(1) is positioned correctly around the entire circumference.
23. Crimp the small retaining clamp (1) by using J 35910. 24. Place the remaining grease from the
service kit inside the boot.
25. Measure approximately 17.5 mm up from the bottom edge of the CV outer joint assembly. 26.
Slide the large diameter of the boot with the large boot retaining clamp in place over the outside of
CV joint.
IMPORTANT: The CV joint boot must not be dimpled, stretched or out of shape in any way. If boot
is not shaped correctly, equalize pressure in the boot and shape the boot properly by hand.
27. Locate the boot lip to the ridge of the CV outer joint assembly as measured in the previous
step.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Drive Shaft Inner Joint & Boot
Replacement-Tripot Joint > Page 6678
28. Crimp boot retaining clamp (1).
^ Crimp boot retaining clamp with J 35910 176 Nm (130 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Specifications
Wheel Bearing: Specifications
This vehicle uses a sealed wheel bearing and lubricating grease is not required.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 28733-B Front Hub Spindle Remover
1. Remove the drive axle. Refer to WHEEL DRIVE SHAFTS REPLACEMENT in Drive Axles,
Bearings and Joints. 2. Remove brake caliper bolts and support caliper. Refer to BRAKE CALIPER
REPLACEMENT in BRAKES. 3. Remove the rotor. Refer to ROTOR REPLACEMENT in
HYDRAULIC BRAKES.
4. Remove the bolts (1) from the hub and bearing assembly (3).
5. Remove the hub and bearing assembly (1) from the steering knuckle (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6684
1. Install the hub and bearing assembly (1) into the steering knuckle (2).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the hub and bearing bolts (1) and washers (2).
Tighten Tighten the bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the rotor. Refer to ROTOR REPLACEMENT in HYDRAULIC BRAKES. 4. Install the brake
caliper and bolts. Refer to BRAKE CALIPER REPLACEMENT in BRAKES. 5. Install the drive axle.
Refer to WHEEL DRIVE SHAFTS REPLACEMENT in DRIVE AXLES, BEARINGS AND JOINTS.
6. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS in WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6685
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear
REAR HUB AND/OR BEARINGS
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL
REMOVAL.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum as damage to the bearing could result.
3. Remove the brake drum. Refer To BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. 4. Remove the hub and
bearing assembly (4) from the axle (2). The top rear attaching bolt (5) and nut (1) will not clear the
brake shoe (3) when
removing the hub and bearing assembly. Partially remove the hub and bearing assembly prior to
removing this bolt.
5. Disconnect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 2. Install the hub and bearing
assembly (4). Position the top rear attaching bolt (5) in the hub and bearing assembly prior to the
installation in the axle
assembly (2).
Tighten Tighten the hub and bearing to axle bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Install the brake drum. Refer to BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. 4. Install the tire and wheel
assemblies. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut >
Component Information > Specifications > Front
Axle Nut: Specifications
Drive Axle Nut 200 Nm (144 ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut >
Component Information > Specifications > Front > Page 6691
Axle Nut: Specifications
Rear Hub and Bearing to Axle Bolts 60 Nm (44 ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Specifications
Flex Plate: Specifications
Tighten the flywheel bolts to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Specifications > Page
6695
Flex Plate: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the transmission
converter cover bolts. 3. Remove the transmission converter cover. 4. Mark the relationship of the
converter to the flywheel.
5. Remove the 3 bolts that attach the converter to the flywheel.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bolts that attach the converter to the flywheel.
^ Tighten the bolts to 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.). Re-torque the first bolts after all 3 bolts have been
tightened.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Specifications > Page
6696
2. Install the converter cover. 3. Install the converter cover bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
4. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flywheel > Component Information > Specifications
Flywheel: Specifications
Engine Flywheel Bolts .........................................................................................................................
........................................................ 75 Nm (55 ft.lb) Clutch Cover to Flywheel Bolt
...........................................................................................................................................................
20 Nm (15 ft.lb) + 30°
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications
Manual Transaxle ................................................................................................................................
............................................... 1.9 Liters (2.0 Quarts)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 6705
Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications
DEXRON Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6706
Fluid - M/T: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: ^
Inspect the fluid level only when the engine is off. Ensure the vehicle is level. The transaxle must
be cold.
^ The fluid level indicator must be fully seated during vehicle operation or leakage will occur at the
vent plug.
1. Remove the fluid level indicator. 2. Read the fluid level indicator. 3. If the indicator reads ADD or
below, fill the transaxle to FULL with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6707
Fluid - M/T: Service and Repair
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: ^
Inspect the fluid level only when the engine is off. Ensure the vehicle is level. The transaxle must
be cold.
^ The fluid level indicator must be fully seated during vehicle operation or leakage will occur at the
vent plug.
1. Remove the fluid level indicator. 2. Read the fluid level indicator. 3. If the indicator reads ADD or
below, fill the transaxle to FULL with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, M/T >
System Information > Service and Repair
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service
Precautions. 2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 3. Support the
vehicle with a safety stand. 4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal in
Tires and Wheels. 5. Remove the stabilizer shaft from the shift control arm. 6. Remove the ball joint
from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension. 7. Remove
the drive axle from:
^ The left oil seal - the transaxle
^ The right oil seal - the intermediate shaft
8. Remove the intermediate shaft. 9. Remove the drive axle oil seal.
10. Fill between the oil seal lips with chassis grease GM P/N 1051344 or equivalent.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
^
Tools Required J 26936 Seal Installer
- J 8092 Drive Handle
1. Install the drive axle oil seal with J 26936 and J 8092. 2. Install the intermediate shaft. 3. Install
the drive axle. 4. Install the ball joint. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement in Suspension. 5.
Install the stabilizer shaft. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement in Suspension. 6. Install the tire
and wheel assembly. 7. Remove the safety stand. 8. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, M/T >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6711
9. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Shift Control (Actuator)
Shifter M/T: Service and Repair Shift Control (Actuator)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the shift cables. 3. Remove the shift control box bolts. 4. Remove the shift control box.
5. Disassemble the shift control box.
6. Assemble the shift control box using the following procedure:
6.1. Assemble the stopper cam and the internal lever. 6.2. Install the stopper cam and internal lever
to the shift lever assembly.
IMPORTANT: Align the serrations on the stopper cam and internal lever.
7. Inspect the alignment of the stopper cam with the center on the internal lever. 8. Reverse the
inhibitor mechanism for proper operation. 9. Install the new roll pin to the internal lever.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Shift Control (Actuator) > Page 6716
1. Install the shift control box. 2. Install the shift control box bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the shift cables. 4. Inspect for proper shifting. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Shift Control (Actuator) > Page 6717
Shifter M/T: Service and Repair Shift Control (Shifter)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the following parts from the shift control:
2.1. The knob 2.2. The boot 2.3. The front console
3. Remove the shift cables from the pin on the shift control. 4. Remove the spring clip holding the
cables to the shift control. 5. Remove the shift control.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the shift control. 2. Install the shift control nuts.
^ Tighten the nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the shift cables to the pin on the shift control. 4. Install the spring clip that holds the cables
to the shift control. 5. Install the following parts on the shift control assembly:
5.1. The front console 5.2. The boot 5.3. The knob
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Shift Control (Actuator) > Page 6718
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, M/T > Shift
Cable, M/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Shift Cable: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the console. Refer to Console Replacement (Chevrolet) or Console Replacement
(Pontiac) in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators.
3. Disconnect the cable ends from the shifter.
4. Remove the forward cable from the anchor.
5. Remove the reverse cable from the anchor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, M/T > Shift
Cable, M/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6723
6. On the transmission end, disconnect the forward cable end from the shift actuator.
7. Disconnect the reverse cable from the shift actuator.
8. Remove both cables from the underhood cable bracket. 9. Position aside the passenger front
carpet. Refer to Carpet Replacement - Front in Interior Trim.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, M/T > Shift
Cable, M/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6724
10. Remove the rear floor duct elbow.
11. Separate the grommet from the floor plan. 12. Pull the cables through the passenger floor
opening.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Feed the cable assembly through the passenger floor pan opening.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, M/T > Shift
Cable, M/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6725
2. Install the grommet flush with the floor opening.
3. Install the rear floor right side elbow duct. 4. Position and install the passenger side carpet.
5. Install the cables into the underhood bracket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, M/T > Shift
Cable, M/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6726
6. Connect the reverse cable to the shift actuator.
7. Connect the forward cable to the sift actuator.
8. Install the reverse cable to the anchor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, M/T > Shift
Cable, M/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6727
9. Install the forward cable to the anchor.
10. Connect the cables to the shifter. 11. Install the console. Refer to Console Replacement
(Chevrolet) or Console Replacement (Pontiac) in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators.
12. Connect the battery.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount, M/T
> Component Information > Specifications
Transmission Mount: Specifications
Front (lower) transaxle mount bolts .....................................................................................................
...................................................................................... 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.)
Rear (upper) transaxle mount bolts .....................................................................................................
...................................................................................... 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.)
Rear transmission mount thru bolt
...................................................................................................................................................... 120
Nm (89 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount, M/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount Replacement
Transmission Mount: Service and Repair Transaxle Mount Replacement
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
1. Pull up and down on the transaxle case while observing the front lower transaxle mount. 2.
Replace a mount when the following conditions occur: 3. The rubber separates from the metal case
4. If movement occurs between the metal plate of the mount and its attaching point, tighten the
mount bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture Adapter.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Install J 28467-360. Raise the transaxle enough to take pressure off of the motor mounts.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the left front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal in Tires and Wheels.
3. Remove the left front splash shield. 4. Remove the front transaxle mount bolts. 5. Remove the
front transaxle mount.
6. Remove the rear transaxle mount bolts. 7. Remove the rear transaxle mount.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount, M/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount Replacement > Page 6733
1. Install the front transaxle mount. 2. Install the front transaxle mount bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the rear transaxle mount. 4. Install the rear transaxle mount bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the left front splash shield. 6. Install the left front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
Wheel Installation in Tires and Wheels. 7. Remove J 28467-360. 8. Connect the negative battery
cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount, M/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount Replacement > Page 6734
Transmission Mount: Service and Repair Transmission Mount Replacement-Front
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
1. Pull up and down on the transaxle case while observing the front lower transaxle mount. 2.
Replace a mount when the following conditions occur: 3. The rubber separates from the metal case
4. If movement occurs between the metal plate of the mount and its attaching point, tighten the
mount bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
use a screw jack in order to raise the transaxle enough to take pressure off of the motor mounts.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2. Remove the left front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal in Tires and Wheels.
3. Remove the left front splash shield. Refer to Splash Shield Replacement - Wheelhouse in Body
Front End. 4. Remove the front transaxle mount bolts. 5. Remove the front transaxle mount.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the front transaxle mount. 2. Install the front transaxle mount bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the left front splash shield. Refer to Splash Shield Replacement - Wheelhouse in Body
Front End. 4. Install the left front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Installation in Tires
and Wheels. 5. Remove J 28467-360. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount, M/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount Replacement > Page 6735
Transmission Mount: Service and Repair Transmission Mount Replacement-Rear
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the front suspension support. Refer to Suspension Crossmember Replacement in
Suspension. 2. Remove the rear transmission mount thru bolt. 3. Remove the mount bolt.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Position and install the mount. 2. Install the thru bolt.
^ Tighten the thru bolt to 120 Nm (89 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the suspension support. Refer to Suspension Crossmember Replacement in Suspension.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch (S) .............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 3T40
Automatic Transaxle > Page 6742
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch Assembly Bolts
......................................................................................................................................................... 12
Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6743
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6752
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6753
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
6759
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
6760
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 01-06-01-030A > May > 02 > Engine Excessive Oil Consumption
Valve Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-030A
Date: May, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Higher than Expected Engine Oil Consumption (Replace Rocker Arm Cover)
Models: 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2001 Chevrolet and GMC
S Truck Models with 4 Cylinder 2.2L Engine (VINs 4, 5 - RPOs LN2, L43)
This bulletin is being revised to correct the warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-06-01-030 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some owners may comment on higher than expected engine oil consumption, therefore, having to
add oil between oil changes.
Important:
For the LN2 and L43 engines, oil consumption greater than 1 quart (0.9 L) within 2000 miles (3200
km) is considered excessive. The oil consumption rate should be verified prior to repairs, as per
Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-011 dated March, 2001.
Cause
Two potential causes of high oil consumption have been identified:
^ The RTV seal between the stamped aluminum PCV baffle plate and the underside of the engine
rocker cover may have deteriorated, allowing excessive oil mist to intrude into the PCV system.
^ The molded silicone intake manifold side gasket may have deteriorated at the PCV flow orifice,
allowing excessive PCV gases to flow into the intake manifold.
Correction
Follow the guidelines listed under Oil Consumption Diagnosis in the Engine Mechanical section of
the appropriate Service Manual, or in SI2000. If there are no other evident reasons for the concern
(such as leaks), replace the rocker cover assembly with the new design cover, P/N 12570563, and
replace the intake manifold side gasket with a new material gasket, P/N 12564499.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 01-06-01-030A > May > 02 > Engine Excessive Oil Consumption > Page 6766
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table shown.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 87-61-19 > Mar > 98 > Engine - Increased
Oil Consumption
Valve Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Increased Oil Consumption
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 87-61-19
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Increased Oil Consumption (Replace Valve Rocker Arm Cover)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 1998 Chevrolet and GMC S Models with
2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2) Built Prior to October 27, 1997
Condition
Some customers may comment about increased oil consumption and having to add oil between oil
changes.
Cause
On engines built before October 27, 1997, valve rocker arm cover baffle design may not be able to
control oil flow into the foul air side of the crankcase ventilation system under certain conditions. In
addition, during some high RPM operation of the engine, oil may be forced into the air cleaner duct
and preplenum assembly.
Correction
Install a new rocker arm cover GM P/N 24577253 using procedures outlined in the appropriate
Service Manual.
Service Procedure
1. If the owner of the vehicle expresses concern with oil consumption, review the oil consumption
rate and, if necessary, perform an oil consumption test on the vehicle. Perform an oil change, note
the mileage and allow the owner to drive the vehicle for a sufficient number of miles for the engine
to consume One Quart of oil. At the end of the test, review the oil consumption rate. Consumption
of more than 1 quart (0.946L) within 2000 miles (3200 km) should be addressed.
2. Review the engine broadcast code label. The broadcast code label is located on the intake
manifold on trucks and on the valve rocker arm cover on cars. Across the bottom of the label there
will be a sequence of letters and numbers starting with the letter "T" The first five numbers in the
sequence correspond to the engine build date starting with the calendar year; for example T 7 10
27 0001 = October 27, 1997. Any engine built on or after October 27, 1997, already has the revised
cover in place and this bulletin does not apply.
3. Inspect the valve rocker arm cover for an identification mark (See Figure 1). The mark will be
located on the rear (transmission) end of the valve rocker arm cover toward the intake manifold
side of the engine. If the vehicle already has a valve rocker arm cover with this identification mark,
DO NOT REPLACE THE VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER. If the vehicle has a concern with
increased oil consumption, review the conditions listed in Step 5 of this bulletin and proceed with
diagnostics in the engine section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 87-61-19 > Mar > 98 > Engine - Increased
Oil Consumption > Page 6771
Important:
Always check engine oil on a level surface, be sure that the engine has been run until it has
reached operating temperature and that the engine has been off for at least 5 minutes to allow for
proper oil drain-down. If oil consumption is greater than that listed above, proceed with Step 4.
4. Install a revised valve rocker arm cover GM P/N 24577253 using procedures outlined in the
Engine Mechanical Section of the appropriate Service Manual.
5. If the owner of the vehicle still has a concern with engine oil consumption after it has been
determined that the latest design cover is installed. Perform further inspection of engine
components for items that may cause increased oil consumption and repair as necessary. Possible
causes of increased oil consumption include the following conditions:
^ External oil leaks
^ Incorrect oil level or improper reading of oil level indicator
^ Improper oil viscosity
^ Continuous high speed driving and/or severe usage such as towing, or driving in mountainous
terrain
^ Blocked cylinder head, cylinder head gasket, or engine block oil drain holes
^ Valve guides and/or valve stem oil seals worn, or the seal omitted
^ Piston rings broken, improperly installed, missing, worn, or not seated properly
^ Pistons improperly installed or improperly fitted
Parts Information
Part Number Description
24577253 Cover, Valve Rocker Arm
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J0308 Cover and/or Gasket Rocker - Replace;
0.5 hr
J Car
J0308 Cover and/or Gasket Rocker - Replace;
0.8 hr
S Truck
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 01-06-01-030A > May > 02 > Engine Excessive Oil Consumption > Page 6777
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table shown.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 87-61-19 > Mar > 98 > Engine - Increased
Oil Consumption > Page 6782
Important:
Always check engine oil on a level surface, be sure that the engine has been run until it has
reached operating temperature and that the engine has been off for at least 5 minutes to allow for
proper oil drain-down. If oil consumption is greater than that listed above, proceed with Step 4.
4. Install a revised valve rocker arm cover GM P/N 24577253 using procedures outlined in the
Engine Mechanical Section of the appropriate Service Manual.
5. If the owner of the vehicle still has a concern with engine oil consumption after it has been
determined that the latest design cover is installed. Perform further inspection of engine
components for items that may cause increased oil consumption and repair as necessary. Possible
causes of increased oil consumption include the following conditions:
^ External oil leaks
^ Incorrect oil level or improper reading of oil level indicator
^ Improper oil viscosity
^ Continuous high speed driving and/or severe usage such as towing, or driving in mountainous
terrain
^ Blocked cylinder head, cylinder head gasket, or engine block oil drain holes
^ Valve guides and/or valve stem oil seals worn, or the seal omitted
^ Piston rings broken, improperly installed, missing, worn, or not seated properly
^ Pistons improperly installed or improperly fitted
Parts Information
Part Number Description
24577253 Cover, Valve Rocker Arm
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J0308 Cover and/or Gasket Rocker - Replace;
0.5 hr
J Car
J0308 Cover and/or Gasket Rocker - Replace;
0.8 hr
S Truck
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 6783
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 6784
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 6787
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
6788
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
6789
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Transmission Speed Sensor: Specifications
Sensor, Output Speed (Stud)-M6 x 1.0 x 15.0 (Qty 1)
........................................................................................................................ 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Speed Sensor Housing To Case
.............................................................................................................................................................
11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6793
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and
MK7 Manual Transmission
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) lead from the transaxle. 2. Remove the VSS bolt. 3.
Remove the VSS retainer.
4. Remove the VSS assembly. 5. Remove the O-ring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and
MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 6796
1. Lubricate a new O-ring with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent. 2.
Install the new O-ring. 3. Install the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) assembly. 4. Install the VSS
retainer. 5. Install the VSS bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Connect the VSS lead to the transaxle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and
MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 6797
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Disconnect the electrical
connector. 3. Remove the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
4. Remove the vehicle speed sensor from the case extension.
5. Remove the O-ring from the vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the O-ring onto the vehicle speed sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > M5 and
MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 6798
2. Install the vehicle speed sensor into the case extension.
3. Install the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6810
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6811
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6817
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6818
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6819
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6823
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock (BTSI) Solenoid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve Connector, Wiring Harness Side
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS) Valve Connector, Wiring Harness Side > Page 6828
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
TCC Solenoid Valve To Valve Body
......................................................................................................................................................... 11
Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6834
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6835
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the valve body cover. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 2. Remove the
transmission mount bracket. 3. Disconnect the solenoid wire harness from the case electrical
connector. 4. Disconnect the wire leads from the pressure switch.
5. Remove the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt from the control valve body.
6. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch. 7. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6836
1. Install the 2nd clutch pressure switch, if applicable.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install 3rd clutch pressure switch.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
3. Install the torque converter clutch solenoid bolt to the control valve body. 4. Install the 0-ring.
^ Tighten to 12 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
5. Connect the wire leads to the pressure switch. 6. Connect the solenoid wire harness to the case
electrical connector. 7. Install the transmission mount bracket. 8. Install the valve body cover with a
new gasket. Refer to Valve Body Cover Replacement. 9. Inspect the oil level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 3T40 Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch (S) .............................................................................................................................
........................................................ 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > 3T40 Automatic Transaxle > Page 6843
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Specifications 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
Pressure Switch Assembly Bolts
......................................................................................................................................................... 12
Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6844
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6853
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6854
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6860
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6861
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6862
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6863
Component Location Views
On the LH rear of the transmission
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagrams C1
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Transaxle Range Switch (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6866
Transaxle Range Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6867
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6868
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications
Transmission Speed Sensor: Specifications
Sensor, Output Speed (Stud)-M6 x 1.0 x 15.0 (Qty 1)
........................................................................................................................ 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Speed Sensor Housing To Case
.............................................................................................................................................................
11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6872
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) lead from the transaxle. 2. Remove the VSS bolt. 3.
Remove the VSS retainer.
4. Remove the VSS assembly. 5. Remove the O-ring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 6875
1. Lubricate a new O-ring with synchromesh transaxle fluid GM P/N 12345349 or equivalent. 2.
Install the new O-ring. 3. Install the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) assembly. 4. Install the VSS
retainer. 5. Install the VSS bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Connect the VSS lead to the transaxle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 6876
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair 4T40-E Automatic Transaxle
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Disconnect the electrical
connector. 3. Remove the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
4. Remove the vehicle speed sensor from the case extension.
5. Remove the O-ring from the vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the O-ring onto the vehicle speed sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > M5 and MK7 Manual Transmission > Page 6877
2. Install the vehicle speed sensor into the case extension.
3. Install the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
^ Tighten the bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Light >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored
ABS Light: Testing and Inspection ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored
ABS Indicator On No DTC Set Wiring Diagram
ABS Indicator On No DTC Set
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Two-way serial communication is sent back and forth between the EBC and the IPC. A message
from the IPC is sent to the EBCM within seven seconds after ABS initialization. A serial
communication failure does not allow the proper warning indicator commands to be sent back to
the IPC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
The scan tool Serial Data Link (SDL) monitor used in this diagnostic is within the body portion of
the scan tool. This requires exiting from the chassis portion of the scan tool to the main menu and
entering into the body portion of the scan tool menu and selecting SDL MONITOR.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Light >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored > Page 6884
With the SDL monitor (ABS to IPC mode), any message that is being transmitted on the serial data
link can be observed. Refer to Instrument Cluster for further serial data link information. Use the
Lamp Test function of the Scan Tool in order to turn the indicator on while looking for an
intermittent malfunction in the ABS warning indicator circuitry.
Thoroughly inspect any circuitry that may cause the intermittent complaint for the following
conditions: ^
Backed out terminals
^ Improper mating
^ Broken locks
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals
^ Poor terminal-to-wiring connections
^ Physical damage to the wiring harness
IMPORTANT: Zero the J 39200 test leads before making any resistance measurements. Refer to
the J 39200 user's manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Light >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored > Page 6885
ABS Light: Testing and Inspection ABS Warning Lamp OFF Constantly, No DTC's Stored
ABS Indicator Off No DTC Set Wiring Diagram
ABS Indicator Off No DTC Set
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Two-way serial communication is sent back and forth between the EBCM and the IPC. A message
from the IPC is sent to the EBCM within seven seconds after ABS initialization. A serial
communication failure does not allow the proper warning indicator commands to be sent back to
the IPC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
The following conditions may cause an intermittent malfunction: ^
A poor connection
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Light >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored > Page 6886
^ Rubbed-through wire insulation
^ A broken wire inside the insulation
The scan tool Serial Data Link (SDL) monitor used in this diagnostic is within the body portion of
the scan tool. This requires exiting from the chassis portion of the scan tool to the main menu and
entering into the body portion of the scan tool menu and selecting SDL MONITOR.
With the SDL monitor (ABS to IPC mode), any message that is being transmitted on the serial data
link can be observed, refer to Instrument Cluster for further serial data link information.
Use the Lamp Test function of the Scan Tool in order to turn the indicator on while looking for an
intermittent malfunction in the ABS warning indicator circuitry.
Thoroughly inspect any circuitry that may cause the intermittent complaint for the following
conditions: ^
Backed out terminals
^ Improper mating
^ Broken locks
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals
^ Poor terminal-to-wiring connections
^ Physical damage to the wiring harness
IMPORTANT: Zero the J 39200 test leads before making any resistance measurements. Refer to
the J 39200 user's manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Main
Relay > Component Information > Locations
LH Center Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Brake Fluid Pump: Component Locations
At the left rear of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 6894
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Locations > Page 6895
ABS Actuator Motor Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
Braking Sensor/Switch: Technical Service Bulletins Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-12
Date: April, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Adjustment of New Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches
Models: 1996-98 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue, Riviera 1996-98 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville
1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1996-98
Oldsmobile Aurora, Eighty Eight, LSS, Regency 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999 Oldsmobile
Alero 1996-98 Pontiac Bonneville 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to advise that new style brake switches were used beginning in the
1996 model year. The two switches control the brake lights, cruise control engage/release, TCC
lock-up/release and the Brake/Transmission Inter-Lock function. The switches are adjusted by
twisting rather than ratcheting. Using the old adjustment method of pulling up on the brake pedal
can break the switch.
A mis-adjusted or damaged switch may cause customer comments such as:
^ Brake lights stay on, draining the battery
^ Cruise control inoperative
^ Higher than normal fuel consumption if TCC cannot engage
^ Brake drag
^ Cruise control takes excess pedal travel to release
The adjustment procedure in the Service Manual should be followed.
Procedure
1. Insert the stop lamp switch into the retainer until the switch bottoms out against the brake pedal,
and the switch actuator is fully depressed.
2. Turn the brake switch in the retainer clockwise until the travel stop has been reached. At this
point it will be locked.
Important:
If the switch is not fully locked into position, a clicking noise may result.
3. The brake switch plunger should extend outward 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm (0.02 in. to 0.06 in.) if
adjusted correctly.
4. If the distance the plunger extends is too great, the brake switch must be turned
counter-clockwise about 45° and set to the correct distance before locking it in place by turning it
clockwise until the travel stop is reached.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246
& C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 6908
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 6909
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 6915
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 6916
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6917
Electronic Brake Control Module: Locations
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6918
Component Location Views
Left hand lower I/P
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6921
Electronic Brake Control Module: Diagrams C2
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (C2) (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6922
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (C2) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair Electronic Brake Control Module
Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the dash wiring harness connectors from the EBCM. 2. Remove the EBCM from the
bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the EBCM to the bracket. 2. Install the dash wiring harness connectors to the EBCM. 3.
Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement >
Page 6925
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair Electronic Brake Control Relay Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the underhood fuse block cover. 2. Remove the electronic brake control relay from the
underhood fuse block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the electronic brake control relay into the underhood fuse block. 2. Install the underhood
fuse block cover. 3. Perform the "Diagnostic System Check" in Antilock Brake System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Specifications
Hydraulic Assembly: Specifications
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 6931
Hydraulic Assembly: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 6932
LF And RF ABS Solenoid And ABS Actuator Motor Assembly Connectors
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 6933
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 6934
Brake Fluid Level Indicator And Cruise Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 6935
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Page 6936
Hydraulic Assembly: Diagrams
LF ABS Solenoid
RF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair ABS Motor Pack Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the gear cover (3).
Important:
^ Use care when handling the motor pack to avoid damaging the motor pack connector. Make sure
brake fluid does not accidentally intrude into the motor pack. Brake fluid in the motor pack may
cause a premature failure of the motor pack.
^ Use care when handling the motor packs. Replace the motor packs if the motor packs are
dropped or damages during handling.
2. Remove the Torx head screws (5) that attach the motor pack (1). 3. Remove the motor pack
assembly (1).
Important: If the disassembly of the modulator/master cylinder assembly was caused by an ABS or
ETS hydraulic functional test that did not pass, the Automated ABS brake motor pack Diagnosis
Test should be performed. Refer to Scan Tool diagnostics in Antilock Brake System. The
Automated ABS brake motor pack Diagnosis Test isolates the motor pack or brake modulator. No
repair of the motor pack is authorized. Replace as an assembly.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the modulator positioned upside down, rotate each ABS brake modulator gear
counterclockwise until movement stops.
The above procedure will cause the following conditions: ^
The pistons on the ABS brake modulator will be positioned very close to the top of the modulator
bore.
^ The brake bleeding procedure becomes simplified.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 6939
IMPORTANT: Use care when handling the motor packs. Replace the motor packs if the motor
packs are dropped or damaged during handling.
Align each of the three motor pack pinions with the modulator gears.
2. Install the motor pack (1) to the modulator assembly (6). 3. Install Torx head screws (4).
^ Tighten the Torx head screws to 4.5 Nm (40 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
4. Install the gear cover (3) onto the modulator/brake master cylinder assembly. 5. Perform Motor
Rehome Procedure. 6. Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 6940
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Brake Modulator Gear Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The modulator drive gears are under spring load and will turn during disassembly. After
removing brake modulator drive gear cover, exercise extreme care not to place fingers intor the
gear set, since fingers can be pinched by rotating gears.
NOTICE: Do not allow gear to turn while removing the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
hit the top of the modulator bore, damaging the piston. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the
gears (not between the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the
gear from turning, aiding in gear removal. IMPORTANT: Do not repair damaged motor packs or
brake modulators. Other than modulator drive gears replacement, repair of the motor pack and
brake modulator assemblies is not authorized. Do not oil or lubricate the gears on the motor pack.
1. Remove the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly. Refer to Brake Modulator Replacement
in Hydraulic Assembly. 2. Remove the Torx head screws that attach the gear cover. 3. Remove the
motor pack to modulator Torx head screws.
Important: Use care when handling the motor pack. Replace the motor pack if the motor pack is
dropped or damaged during handling.
4. Separate the motor pack from the modulator. 5. Remove three modulator drive gear retaining
nuts. 6. Remove the gears from the modulator.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Position the modulator drive gears onto the modulator drive shaft.
Notice: Do not allow gear to turn while removing the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
hit the top of the modulator bore, damaging the piston. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the
gears (not between the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the
gear from turning, aiding in gear removal.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 6941
2. Install three gear retaining nuts.
^ Tighten the nuts to 8.5 Nm (75 inch lbs.).
3. With either of the modulators positioned upside down, and the gears facing your, rotate each
ABS brake modulator gear counterclockwise until
movement stops.
Rotating the modulator gears will cause the following conditions: ^
The pistons on the ABS brake modulator will be positioned very close to the top of the modulator
bore.
^ The brake bleeding procedure is simplified.
Important: Use care when handling the motor pack. Replace the motor pack if the motor pack is
dropped or damaged during handling.
4. Position the motor pack onto the modulator, aligning the three motor pack gears with the
modulator gears. 5. Install motor pack to modulator Torx head screws.
^ Tighten the Torx head screws to 4.5 Nm (40 ft. lbs.).
6. Install the gear cover onto the modulator with Torx head screws.
^ Tighten the Torx head screws to 4 Nm (45 inch lbs.)
7. Install the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly. Refer to Brake Modulator Replacement in
Hydraulic Assembly. 8. Perform the Motor Rehome Procedure. 9. Perform the Diagnostic System
Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 6942
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Brake Modulator Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly. Refer to Brake Modulator/Master
Cylinder Asm Replacement. 2. Remove the Torx head screws (5) attaching the gear cover (4). 3.
Remove the gear cover (4). 4. Remove the four Torx head screws (6) attaching the motor pack (1)
to the brake modulator (2). 5. Remove the motor pack (1) from the brake modulator (2). 6. Remove
the two brake modulator to master cylinder banjo bolts, separate the brake modulator from the
master cylinder. 7. Remove the two transfer tubes with the O-rings from the master cylinder or the
brake modulator. 8. Remove the banjo bolt O-rings from the master cylinder and the brake
modulator.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: When replacing the ABS brake modulator, install the three gears in the same
location on the replacement brake modulator. Refer to Brake Modulator Gear Replacement in
Hydraulic Assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 6943
No repair of the ABS brake modulator is authorized. Replace the ABS brake modulator as an
assembly.
IMPORTANT: Use new transfer tube assemblies when assembling the ABS brake
modulator/master cylinder assembly. Be sure to properly install two O-rings on each transfer tube.
1. Use the following procedure in order to install the two transfer assemblies:
1.1. Lubricate the transfer tube assembly O-rings with clean brake fluid. 1.2. Install the transfer
tube assemblies into ports of the ABS brake modulator.
Push the tube assemblies in by hand to the bottom of the ports.
2. Lubricate the new banjo bolt 0-ring with clean brake fluid. 3. Install the banjo bolt 0-ring into the
master cylinder and the ABS brake modulator. 4. Use the following procedure in order to install the
ABS brake modulator onto the master cylinder:
4.1. Clamp the mounting flange of the master cylinder in a vise. 4.2. Hold the ABS brake modulator
and rock the modulator into position on the master cylinder. 4.3. Insert the transfer tube assemblies
into the master cylinder ports.
5. Install two ABS brake modulator to master cylinder banjo bolts.
Tighten Tighten the banjo bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
6. With the ABS brake modulator positioned upside down, and the gears facing you, rotate each
ABS brake modulator gear counterclockwise until
movement stops. The procedure causes the following conditions: ^
The pistons are positioned very close to the top of the modulator bore.
^ The brake bleeding procedure is simplified.
7. Install the ABS brake motor pack (1) onto the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly (2). 8.
Install the four Torx head screws (6) that retain the motor pack (1) to the brake modulator (2).
Tighten Tighten the four Torx head screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.).
9. Install the gear cover (4) to the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly (2).
10. Install the Torx head screws (5) that retain the gear cover (4).
Tighten Tighten the Torx head screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.).
11. Install the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly. Refer to Brake Modulator/Master
Cylinder Asm Replacement 12. Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 6944
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Modulator Gear Cover Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the Torx head screws (4) that attach the gear cover (3). 2. Remove the gear cover (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the gear cover (3) onto the modulator/master cylinder assembly. 2. Install the Torx head
screws (4).
^ Tighten the Torx screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 6945
other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such
coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the
fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications.
Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286) > Page 6954
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286) > Page 6955
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins
for Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light
ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins
for Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286) > Page 6961
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins
for Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286) > Page 6962
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Traction
Control Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set
Traction Control Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set
ETS Off Indicator On No DTCs Set Wiring Diagram
ETS Off Indicator On No DTCs Set
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Two-way serial communication is sent back and forth between the EBCM and the IPC. A message
from the IPC is sent to the EBCM within seven seconds after ABS initialization. A serial
communication failure does not allow the proper warning indicator commands to be sent back to
the IPC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
The ETS OFF indicator will be ON and the Enhanced Traction System will be disabled whenever
the scan tool is connected to the DLC with the ignition switch is in the RUN position.
The scan tool Serial Data Link (SDL) monitor used in this diagnostic is within the body portion of
the scan tool. This requires exiting from the chassis
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Traction
Control Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set >
Page 6967
portion of the scan tool to the main menu and entering into the body portion of the scan tool menu
and selecting SDL MONITOR.
With the SDL monitor (ABS to IPC mode), any message that is being transmitted on the serial data
link can be observed. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster for further serial data link information. Use
the Lamp Test function of the Scan Tool in order to turn the indicator on while looking for an
intermittent malfunction in the ETS OFF warning indicator circuitry.
Thoroughly inspect any circuitry that may cause the intermittent complaint for the following
conditions: ^
Backed out terminals
^ Improper mating
^ Broken locks
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals
^ Poor terminal-to-wiring connections
^ Physical damage to the wiring harness
IMPORTANT: Zero the J 39200 test leads before making any resistance measurements. Refer to
the J 39200 user's manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Traction
Control Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set >
Page 6968
Traction Control Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection ETS Off Indicator OFF No DTCS Set
ETS Off Indicator Off No DTCs Set Wiring Diagram
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Traction
Control Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set >
Page 6969
ETS Off Indicator Off No DTCs Set
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Two-way serial communication is sent back and forth between the EBCM\A and the IPC. A
message from the IPC is sent to the EBCM within seven seconds after ABS initialization. A serial
communication failure does not allow the proper warning indicator commands to be sent back to
the IPC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
The scan tool Serial Data Link (SDL) monitor used in this diagnostic is within the body portion of
the scan tool. This requires exiting from the chassis portion of the scan tool to the main menu and
entering into the body portion of the scan tool menu and selecting SDL MONITOR.
With the SDL monitor (ABS to IPC mode), any message that is being transmitted on the serial data
link can be observed. Refer to Instrument Panel luster for further serial data link information. The
frequency of the malfunction can be checked by using the ENHANCED DIAGNOSTIC function of
the scan tool, as described in "Enhanced Diagnostics".
The following conditions may cause an intermittent malfunction: ^
A poor connection
^ Rubbed-through wire insulation
^ A broken wire inside the insulation
Use the Lamp Test function of the Scan Tool in order to turn the indicator on while looking for an
intermittent malfunction in the ETS OFF warning indicator circuitry.
Thoroughly inspect any circuitry that may cause the intermittent complaint for the following
conditions: ^
Backed out terminals
^ Improper mating
^ Broken locks
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals
^ Poor terminal-to-wiring connections
^ Physical damage to the wiring harness
IMPORTANT: Zero the J 39200 test leads before making any resistance measurements. Refer to
the J 39200 user's manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Traction
Control Switch > Component Information > Locations
Traction Control Switch: Locations
Component Location Views
At the center console on the gear selector
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Traction
Control Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6973
Enhanced Traction Control System Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Wheel Speed Sensor: Specifications
Front Wheel Speed Sensor Retaining Bolt 107 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Wheel Speed Sensor
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Wheel Speed Sensor
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Wheel Speed Sensor > Page 6979
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Wheel Speed Sensor > Page 6980
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF
LF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 6983
RF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 6984
LR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 6985
RR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front)
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting And Jacking. 2.
Disconnect the front wheel speed sensor electrical connector. 3. Remove the retaining bolt. 4.
Remove the front wheel speed sensor. If the sensor will not slide out of the knuckle, remove the
brake rotor and use a blunt punch or equivalent
tool to push the sensor from the back side of the knuckle.
IMPORTANT: If the sensor locating pin breaks off and remains in the knuckle during removal,
proceed as follows:
1. Remove the brake rotor and remove broken pin using a blunt punch. 2. Clean the hole using
sand paper wrapped around a screwdriver or other suitable tool. Never attempt to enlarge the hole.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the front wheel speed sensor to the steering knuckle. 2. Install the retaining bolt.
^ Tighten the Torx screws to 12 Nm (107 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Connect the front wheel speed sensor electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Perform the
Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front) > Page 6988
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Rear)
IMPORTANT: The rear wheel speed sensors and rings are integral with the hub and bearing
assemblies.
If a speed sensor or a ring needs replacement, replace the entire hub and bearing assembly. Refer
to Rear Suspension in Suspension.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front) > Page 6989
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Jumper Harness Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting And Jacking. 2.
Remove the connector from the front wheel speed sensor. 3. Remove the harness attaching clips
(2) from the control arm (3) and the splash shield (1). 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Remove the harness
attaching clips from the strut tower. 6. Cut the wheel speed sensor wiring circuits within the main
engine harness. 7. Strip the insulation on the engine harness leads and the new wheel speed
sensor harness leads.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Splice the sleeve provided in the jumper harness kit over each engine harness lead. 2. Install the
new wheel speed sensor harness leads to the engine harness leads and crimp the connections.
Make sure the wire colors match. 3. Heat shrink the tube lightly to seal the connection. 4. Install the
harness attaching clip to the strut tower. 5. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting
And Jacking. 6. Install the harness attaching clips (2) to the control arm (3) and the splash shield
(1). 7. Install the connector to the front wheel speed sensor. 8. Lower the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle
Lifting And Jacking. 9. Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front) > Page 6990
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Jumper Harness Replacement
(Rear Axle)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking. 2.
Disconnect the two rear wheel speed sensor electrical connectors (3) from the rear wheel bearing
and speed sensor assemblies (2). 3. Disconnect the rear axle harness electrical connector from the
body to ABS and fuel sender connector. 4. Remove the rear axle harness retainers (1). 5. Remove
the rear axle harness from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the rear axle harness to the vehicle. 2. Install the rear axle harness retainers (1). 3.
Connect the rear axle harness electrical connector to the body to ABS and fuel sender connector.
4. Connect the two rear wheel speed sensor electrical connectors (3) to the rear wheel bearing and
speed sensor assemblies (2). 5. Lower the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting And Jacking. 6. Perform
the Diagnostic System Check.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Motor Rehome Procedure
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Motor Rehome Procedure
REHOME TEST
The motor rehome function will return all of the hydraulic modulator pistons to their upmost home,
position. This allows all fluid paths within the modulator to be open so that the modulator can be
properly bled. The motor rehome function must ALWAYS be used prior to bleeding the brake
system
IMPORTANT: The motor rehome function cannot be performed if any current DTCs are present. If
current DTCs are present, the vehicle must be repaired and DTCs cleared before performing the
motor rehome function.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Motor Rehome Procedure > Page 6995
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding
CAUTION: Do not move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Air In the brake system
can cause the loss of brakes with possible personal injury.
A bleeding operation is necessary in order to remove air from the hydraulic brake system whenever
air is introduced into the brake system. Bleed the hydraulic system at all four brakes if air has been
introduced into the system through low fluid level or by disconnecting the brake pipes at the master
cylinder. If a brake pipe is disconnected at one wheel, bleed only that wheel cylinder/caliper. If the
pipes are disconnected at any fitting located between the master cylinder and brakes, bleed the
brake system served by the disconnected pipe. Observe the following steps in order to reduce the
time required to bleed the hydraulic system:
^ Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir is filled with brake fluid.
^ Expel as much air as possible before installing the master cylinder on the vehicle.
MANUAL BLEEDING
Tools Required ^
J 21472 Brake Bleeder Wrench
Apply the brakes several times with the ignition OFF. This will deplete the vacuum reserve. Use
extreme care in order to prevent brake fluid from contacting painted surfaces. 1. Fill the master
cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid in Maintenance and Lubrication in General
Information.
^ Maintain the fluid level in the reservoir during the bleeding operation.
^ Use an assistant in the vehicle in order to press the brake pedal during the manual bleeding
process.
2. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have air in the bore, bleed the master cylinder
before the wheel cylinder or the calipers are bled.
Complete the following steps:
3. Disconnect the forward brake pipe connections) (1) at the master cylinder. 4. Fill the master
cylinder with brake fluid until fluid begins to flow from the forward pipe connector port. 5. Connect
the forward brake pipe to the master cylinder. Tighten the pipe. 6. Slowly depress the brake pedal
and hold the pedal.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Motor Rehome Procedure > Page 6996
7. Loosen the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder in order to purge air from the
cylinder. 8. Tighten the connection. 9. Slowly release the brake pedal.
10. Wait 15 seconds. 11. Repeat the previous eight steps until all air is removed from the bore.
Use extreme care in order to prevent brake fluid from contacting painted surfaces.
12. Bleed the master cylinder at the rear (cowl end) connections after all the air has been removed
at the forward connections. Slowly depress the
brake pedal and hold the pedal.
13. Check for a firm pedal feel and proper brake pedal travel. If the wheel cylinders and calipers do
not contain air, bleeding is not necessary, but
recommended in order to remove any moisture or debris.
14. After all air is removed from the master cylinder, bleed the wheel cylinders in the following
order, if necessary:
14.1. Right rear 14.2. Left rear 14.3. Right front 14.4. Left front
15. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking.
16. Place a proper size box end wrench (1) (or special tool) over the caliper/cylinder bleeder valve.
17. Attach a transparent tube (2) over the bleeder screw.
Submerge the other end in a transparent container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
18. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold the pedal. 19. Loosen the bleeder screw in order to
purge the air from the cylinder/caliper.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
20. Tighten the bleeder screw.
^ Tighten the rear bleeder screws to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.).
^ Tighten the front bleeder screws to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
21. Slowly release the pedal. 22. Wait 15 seconds. 23. Repeat the previous five steps until all air is
removed from the caliper.
Do not pump the brake pedal rapidly. Pumping the pedal pushes the master cylinder secondary
piston down the bore which causes difficult bleeding.
24. Lower the vehicle.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Motor Rehome Procedure > Page 6997
25. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. 26. Check the brake pedal for sponginess or
excessive travel.
Repeat the entire manual bleeding procedure in order to correct either of the two conditions.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
Tools Required ^
J 29532 Diaphragm Type Brake Bleeder
^ J 35589 pressure Bleeder Adapter Cap
^ J 21472 Brake Bleeder Wrench
NOTICE: Pressure bleeding equipment must be of the diaphragm type. It must have a rubber
diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, oil and other
contaminants from entering the hydraulic system.
1. Install the J 35589 to the master cylinder 2. Charge the J 29532 to 140-172 kPa (20-25 psi). 3.
Connect the line to the J 35589. 4. Open the line valve. 5. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle.
Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking. 6. Bleed the wheel cylinders/calipers in the following order, if
necessary:
6.1. Right rear 6.2. Left rear 6.3. Right front 6.4. Left front
7. Place the J 21472 over the caliper/cylinder bleeder valve. 8. Attach a transparent tube over the
bleeder screw.
Submerge the opposite hose end in a transparent container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
9. Open the bleeder screw at least 3/4 of a turn.
Allow the fluid to flow until no air is visible in the fluid.
10. Close the bleeder screw.
^ Tighten the rear bleeder screws to 7 Nm (6.2 inch lbs.).
^ Tighten the front bleeder screws to 13 Nm ( 115 inch lbs.).
11. Repeat the previous four steps until all of the calipers/cylinders have been bled.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Motor Rehome Procedure > Page 6998
12. Lower the vehicle. 13. Inspect the brake pedal for sponginess. Repeat this entire pressure
bleeding procedure in order to correct this conditions. 14. Remove the J 35589 and the J 29532.
15. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Specifications
Brake Pedal Assy: Specifications
Brake Pedal to Bracket ........................................................................................................................
.................................................... 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
Brake Pedal Travel * ............................................................................................................................
................................................ 63.5 mm (2.5 inches)
* Note: Brake pedal travel maximum with 445 N (100 lbs.) force applied to pedal with ignition OFF
and vacuum assist deleted.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 7002
Brake Pedal Assy: Testing and Inspection
^ Tools Required J 28662 Brake Pedal Effort Gauge
1. With the engine off and the key OFF, pump the service brake pedal until all reserve is exhausted
from the brake booster. 2. Install the J 28662 or the equivalent onto the brake pedal. 3. Hook the
end of the tape measure over the top edge of the pedal. 4. Measure the distance from the top edge
of the brake pedal to the rim of the steering wheel. 5. Depress the service brake pedal with
approximately 445 N (100 lbs.) of force. 6. Re-measure the distance from the top edge of the brake
pedal to the rim of the steering wheel. The difference between both readings is the actual
pedal travel and should not exceed 63 mm (2.5 in).
7. If the pedal travel is greater than 63 mm (2.5 in), drive the vehicle backward while intermittently
applying the brakes. In rare cases, excessive
pedal travel will develop if brakes are only used occasionally when backing up. This will develop
when the vehicle is only driven in reverse. Duo-Servo self-adjusting mechanisms will only actuate
when the brakes are applied in reverse.
8. Air in the hydraulic system may be the cause of most low pedal problems. Bleed the system until
all air is purged. Refer to Brake Bleeding. 9. Other less frequent causes of excessive brake travel
include the following conditions:
^ Incorrect brake booster pushrod length
^ Improperly adjusted parking brake
^ Rear shoe adjusters not functioning
^ Shoes excessively worn
^ Hydraulic system leakage
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 7003
Brake Pedal Assy: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the left sound insulator panel. 2. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal (10).
3. Disconnect the accelerator cable.
4. Remove the brake pedal assembly (1).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 7004
5. Disconnect the electrical connections (1,2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the electrical connections (1, 2).
2. Install the brake pedal assembly (1).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 7005
3. Connect the accelerator cable. 4. Connect the pushrod to the brake pedal (10). 5. Install the left
sound insulator panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7010
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7011
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7012
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7013
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7014
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7015
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7016
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7017
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7018
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7019
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7034
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7035
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7036
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7037
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7038
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7039
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7040
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7041
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 7042
Brake Warning Indicator: Description and Operation
The standard brake system uses a single red BRAKE warning light. The light is located in the
instrument panel cluster. When the ignition switch is in the START position, the BRAKE warning
light should glow and turn off when the ignition switch returns the RUN position.
The following conditions will activate the BRAKE light:
^ The parking brake is applied. The light should be on whenever the parking brake is applied and
the ignition switch is on.
^ The fluid level is low. A low fluid level in the master cylinder will turn the BRAKE light on.
For electrical diagnosis on the BRAKE warning system, refer to Brake Lamp (Warning Indicator).
Antilock Brake System
The antilock brake system uses two indicator lamps, a red BRAKE warning lamp and an amber
ANTILOCK lamp. Both of the lamps are located in the instrument panel cluster. The lamps should
activate under the following normal conditions:
^ When the ignition is turned to the RUN position, prior to starting the engine, the amber
ANTILOCK lamp should fun ON.
^ As the engine is cranked, the red BRAKE lamp and the amber ANTILOCK lamp should come
ON.
^ When the engine is started, both lamps should be OFF.
For further information regarding the warning lamp operation for the Antilock brake system, refer to
ABS Light.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Caliper Bleeder Screws 115 in.lb
Caliper Inlet Fitting 34 ft.lb
Caliper Mounting Bolts 38 ft.lb
Caliper Bore Diameter 2.244 in
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Brake Caliper Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder assembly. 2. Raise the vehicle and
suitably support the vehicle. 3. Mark the relationship of the wheel to the hub and bearing assembly
in order to ensure proper wheel balance upon reassembly. 4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Refer to Wheel Removal.
Reinstall two wheel nuts in order to retain the rotor to hub and bearing assembly.
5. Push the piston into the caliper bore in order to provide clearance between the linings and the
rotor.
6. Install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard
shoe.
Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston is pushed into the caliper bore enough in order to slide
the caliper assembly off the rotor.
7. Remove the bolt attaching inlet fitting (5) only when the caliper (2) is to be removed from the
vehicle for unit repair (overhaul). If only the shoe
and linings are being replaced, there is no need to disconnect the inlet fitting (5). Plug the exposed
inlet fitting (5) in the caliper housing and the brake hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
8. Remove the caliper mounting bolts (1) and sleeve assemblies.
9. Remove the caliper from the rotor and knuckle.
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Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7049
^ Do not let the caliper (2) hang from the brake hose. Damage may occur.
^ If the caliper assembly is not being removed from the vehicle for unit repair, suspend the caliper
with a wire hook from the strut (1).
10. Inspect the mounting bolts (1) and sleeve (4) assemblies for corrosion. 11. Inspect the
bushings (2) for cuts and nicks. 12. If damage to either part is found, replace with new parts when
installing the caliper. 13. Do no attempt to polish away corrosion.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Liberally coat the inside of the diameter of the bushings (4) with silicone grease (4).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the mounting bolts (1) and sleeve (4) assemblies (1).
3. Install the caliper (2) over the rotor into the knuckle.
^ Tighten the mounting bolt and sleeve assemblies to 51 Nm (38 ft. lbs.).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7050
4. Install the inlet fitting, if the inlet fitting was removed.
^ Tighten the inlet fitting to 44 Nm (32 ft. lbs.).
5. Perform the following steps in order to install the wheel and tire, aligning the previous marks:
5.1. Remove the wheel nuts securing the rotor to the hub and bearing assembly. 5.2. Install the
wheel and tire assembly with the retaining nuts in the proper sequence. Refer to Wheel Installation.
5.3. Lower the vehicle. 5.4. Tighten the wheel nuts. Refer to Wheel Fastner Specifications.
6. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with clean brake fluid. Refer to Master Cylinder
Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.
6.1. Bleed the caliper if the inlet fitting was removed. Refer to Brake Bleeding in Hydraulic Brakes.
6.2. Recheck the fluid level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes. 6.3.
Recheck the brake pedal feel. If brake spongyness is present, refer to Brake System Testing and
Inspection.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7051
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Brake Caliper Overhaul
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the caliper completely from the vehicle. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement. 2.
Disassemble the bushings (6). 3. Inspect the bushings (6) for cuts and nicks. Replace the bushings
(6) if damaged.
CAUTION: Do not place your fingers In front of the piston in order to catch or protect the piston
while applying compressed air. This could result in serious injury.
IMPORTANT: Use clean shop towels in order to pad the interior of the caliper housing during the
removal.
4. Remove the piston using compressed air into the caliper inlet hole (1). 5. Inspect the piston for
scoring, nicks, corrosion and worn or damaged chrome plating. Replace the piston if any of these
conditions are found.
6. Remove the boot (2) from the caliper housing bore. Be careful not to scratch the housing bore.
Notice: Do not use a metal tool for seal removal. Damage to the caliper bore or the seal grooves
can result.
7. Remove the piston seal grove in the caliper housing bore with a small wood or plastic tool. 8.
Inspect the caliper housing bore and seal groove for scoring, nicks, corrosion and wear. 9. Use a
crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion.
10. Replace the caliper (1) housing if corrosion in and around the seal groove will not clean up with
a crocus cloth.
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Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7052
11. Remove the bleeder valve and bleeder valve (5) cap from the caliper. 12. Clean all parts in
clean, denatured alcohol. 13. Dry the parts with unlubricated compressed air. 14. Blow out all
passages in the caliper housing and bleeder valve.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Tools Required ^
J29077-A Front Disc Brake Caliper Dust Boot Installer
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Assemble the bleeder valve (5) and bleeder valve cap into caliper.
^ Tighten the bleeder valve to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
2. Lubricate the new piston seal (2) and install the new piston seal into the caliper bore groove. 3.
Make sure the seal (2) is not twisted.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7053
4. Install the lubricated boot (2) onto the piston (1). 5. Install the piston and boot onto the bore of
the caliper and push to the bottom of the bore.
6. Seat boot fin the caliper housing counter bore using J29077-A. 7. Perform the following steps in
order to install the bushings:
7.1. Lubricate the beveled end of the bushing with silicone grease, or the equivalent. 7.2. Pinch the
bushing and install the bevel end first. 7.3. Push the bushing through the housing mounting bore.
8. Install the caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Specifications
Brake Pad: Specifications
1. Inspect the brake linings every 9654 km (6,000 miles). 2. Inspect the brake linings whenever
removing the tire and wheel assembly, such as a tire rotation. 3. Check both ends of the outer pad
by looking in at each end of the caliper. These are the points at which the highest rate of wear
normally occurs. 4. Check the lining thickness on the inner shoe for premature wear. The inboard
shoe and linings may have a thermal layer against the shoe which is
molded with the lining. Do not confuse this layer with uneven inboard outboard lining wear.
5. Look down through the inspection hole in the top of the caliper in order to view the inner shoe. 6.
Replace the disc brake shoe and lining assemblies when the thickness of any lining is worn to
within 0.76 mm (0.030 in) of the shoe. For riveted
shoe and lining assemblies, replace the lining if it is worn to within 0.76 mm (0.030 in) of any rivet
head.
7. Replace all disc brake shoe and lining assemblies at the same time.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 7057
Brake Pad: Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect the brake linings every 9654 km (6,000 miles). 2. Inspect the brake linings whenever
removing the tire and wheel assembly, such as a tire rotation. 3. Check both ends of the outer pad
by looking in at each end of the caliper. These are the points at which the highest rate of wear
normally occurs. 4. Check the lining thickness on the inner shoe for premature wear. The inboard
shoe and linings may have a thermal layer against the shoe which is
molded with the lining. Do not confuse this layer with uneven inboard outboard lining wear.
5. Look down through the inspection hole in the top of the caliper in order to view the inner shoe. 6.
Replace the disc brake shoe and lining assemblies when the thickness of any lining is worn to
within 0.76 mm (0.030 in) of the shoe. For riveted
shoe and lining assemblies, replace the lining if it is worn to within 0.76 mm (0.030 in) of any rivet
head.
7. Replace all disc brake shoe and lining assemblies at the same time.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 7058
Brake Pad: Service and Repair
The GM replacement brake lining material is recommended for all GM vehicles. This is done in
order to maintain the balance between front and rear brake performance. GM replacement parts
have been carefully selected in order to provide the proper brake balance for purposes of both
stopping distance and controllability over the full range of operation conditions. Installation of the
front or rear brake lining material with performance different from that of the GM replacement parts
recommended for this vehicle may change the intended brake balance of this vehicle. .
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information
Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-001B
Date: January 31, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Align(R) System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction
Models: 2008 and Prior Passenger Cars
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
01-05-23-001A (Section 05 - Brakes).
This bulletin is being issued to update General Motors position on correcting brake rotor lateral
runout (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B for additional brake rotor service
procedures).
Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs. Refer to those
specific repairs in applicable service bulletins. Make sure other possible sources of brake pulsation,
such as ABS pedal feedback, have been addressed before checking rotor runout.
Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have .050 mm (.002 in) or
less of lateral runout. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation. Until
now, the only acceptable methods to correct brake rotor runout were to index or replace the rotor or
to refinish the rotor using an on-vehicle brake lathe.
GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral runout on new or refinished rotors.
This new method is called Brake align(R)*. It will allow the technician to meet the .050 mm (.002 in)
or less requirement for lateral runout by installing a specially selected, tapered correction plate
between the rotor and the hub. The Brake Align(R) Correction system does NOT require the use of
an on-vehicle brake lathe to correct for lateral runout.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
The Brake Align(R) Starter Kit will include an ample supply of Correction Plates, in various
correction sizes, that will cover most current GM passenger car applications. It will also include a
Brake Align(R) tool kit containing a dial indicator and retaining washers along with other useful
tools.
Service Procedure
Follow all the procedures referred to in Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B. Dealers who
have purchased the Brake Align(R) Starter Kit may use the following simplified runout correction
procedure:
The existing rotors must first be machined on an approved, well-maintained bench lathe to
guarantee smooth, flat, and parallel surfaces. Should the rotors require replacement, please note
that it is not necessary to machine new rotors.
Make sure all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean, using the J 42450-A wheel
Hub Cleaning Kit. Mount the new or refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub using the retaining
washers provided in the kit. Do not reinstall the caliper or wheel at this time.
Tighten all the wheel nuts to the proper specification, using J 39544 Torque Socket or the
equivalent.
Fasten the dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (1/2 in) from the rotors outer edge.
Rotate the rotor and observe the total lateral runout.
Index the rotor on the hub to achieve the lowest amount of lateral runout. This will require removal
and reassembly of the rotor until the lowest total lateral runout reading is obtained. If this reading is
.050 mm (.002 in) or less, the assembled rotor is within specification. The brake system may be
reassembled.
If total lateral runout is greater than .050 mm (.002 in), proceed with determining the correct Brake
Align(R) Correction as follows:
Rotate the rotor to locate the lowest dial indicator reading and set the dial to zero. Rotate the rotor
to determine and locate the highest amount of lateral runout.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7063
Note the AMOUNT and LOCATION of the "high spot" on the rotor and mark the closest wheel stud
relative to this location.
Remove the rotor.
Select the appropriate Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plate for this vehicle using the Application
Chart. Make sure the selection corrects the amount of runout that was diagnosed.
Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub.
Never attempt to re-use a previously installed Correction Plate.
Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the vehicle
between the hub and the rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and aligned
with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.
Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor. Be
sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 7.
The rotor should then be secured onto the hub and tightened to the proper specification. The rotor
should be dial indicated once more to assure that the rotor is now within specification.
The brake system is now ready for the remaining service and assembly. Once the caliper has been
installed, check to ensure that the rotor rotates freely.
Parts Information
Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plates are available through the suppliers shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7064
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7065
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7066
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7067
Brake Align Order Form
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7068
Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Rotor & Hub Flange Cleaning Tool Revision
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-37
Date: January, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Revision to J 42450 Tool; Proper Brake Rotor and Hub Flange Surface Cleaning
Models: 1998 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks - with Disc Brakes (Rotor and Hub
Separate)
This bulletin is being revised to update the following text.
This bulletin is being issued to inform the dealer about a revision to tool J 42450 and reinforce the
need for proper hub flange and brake rotor mating surface cleaning during service.
Tool J 42450 is a cleaning pad arbor and pad system that fits over the wheel stud and cleans the
portion of the hub surface that is very difficult to reach with normal rotary cleaning pads. Tool J
42450 is being revised to J 42450-A to improve the hook and loop material retention. Any dealer
experiencing problems with tool J 42450 should contact Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233 for a
revised arbor at no charge.
Anytime the brake rotor has been separated from the hub bearing flange or if rotor machining is
necessary, the rotor and hub should be marked to maintain the original position. Clean the hub
flange of all dirt and foreign material using special tool J 42450 or J 42450-A. Clean both sides of
the brake rotor hub using an aggressive (80 grit) abrasive sanding pad on a rotary disc.
Properly cleaning the rotor surfaces before rotor machining or reassembly ensures that dirt and
corrosion will not add lateral runout to the rotor. Proper cleaning of the hub flange will also minimize
the stack-up of lateral runout. On reassembly, the rotor should be reinstalled aligning the marks
made on disassembly.
Always use a torque wrench or the appropriate Torque Socket found in J 39544-KIT on an impact
wrench when installing the wheel and tire assembly. Torque all wheel nuts using the correct
sequence and torque. Refer to the Tire and Wheel Sub-Section in the applicable Service Manual.
Excessive torque or torque variation between wheel nuts may cause distortion of the hub and rotor
mating surface. This distortion may cause lateral runout and lead to brake pulsation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7069
Technical Service Bulletin # 23-50-05B Date: 971101
Brakes - Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 23-50-05B
Date: November, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
Model: 1994-98 GM Passenger Cars
This bulletin outlines GM's procedures for brake rotor service for all applicable GM passenger cars
and supersedes Corporate Bulletin Number 23-50-05A Section 5 - Brakes).
Important:
Rotors should only be turned when one or more of the following rotor surface conditions exist:
1. Severe Scoring - depth in excess of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.). 2. Pulsation Concerns from:
a. Thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm (0.001 in.). b. Corrosion on rotor braking surfaces.
Rotors are NOT to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct:
1. Noise/squeal. 2. Cosmetic corrosion. 3. Routine pad replacement. 4. Discoloration and/or "hard
spots".
Explanation of Brake Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
Research and testing has determined:
1. Rotor refacing during normal pad replacement is not necessary.
2. Rotor refacing for cosmetic corrosion is unnecessary. Clean-up of braking surfaces can be
accomplished by 10-15 moderate stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between
stops.
3. Rotor service is ineffective in correcting BRAKE SQUEAL, and/or PREMATURE LINING WEAR
OUT, and should NOT be used to address these conditions.
4. When installing new rotors, DO NOT reface them.
5. Ensure bearing flanges are free of corrosion when installing rotors to prevent inducing lateral
runout. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450 to clean the corrosion around the wheel studs.
Brake Service Techniques
EVERY brake service should include:
1. Clean and lube all metal-to-metal contact points (i.e.; caliper to knuckle, pad to knuckle, etc.).
2. Clean and lube slide pins.
3. Set correct clearances - caliper to knuckle, etc.
4. Clean rotor and hub mounting surfaces. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450 to clean around wheel
studs.
Pulsation
Brake pulsation concerns may result from two basic conditions:
1. Thickness variation.
2. Excessive corrosion.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7070
Rotor thickness variation is the result of uneven rotor wear caused by excessive lateral runout
(>0.076 mm; >0.003 in.). Lateral runout can be induced by:
1. Distortion of the braking surface by applying uneven and/or excessive wheel nut torque.
(This could be the result of a recent tire change, rotation, etc.).
2. Improperly refacing rotors.
Brake Noise
Important:
SOME BRAKE NOISE IS NORMAL.
Brake noise is caused by a "slip stick" type vibration of brake components. Some intermittent brake
noise may be normal. Performing 3-4 aggressive stops may temporarily reduce or eliminate most
brake squeal. If the noise persists, a brake dampening compound may be applied to the back of
each pad. Use Permatex Disc Brake Quiet # 126HB or equivalent. Also, clean and lube all
metal-to-metal contact areas between pads, pad guides, caliper and knuckles with a thin layer of
high temperature silicone grease. This allows parts to slide freely and not vibrate when moving
relative to each other.
Rotor Grooving
Excessive grooving can be caused by foreign material in contact with the rotor, but most often rotor
grooving is the result of normal brake wear. DO NOT RESURFACE ROTORS FOR LIGHT
GROOVING. Resurface rotors only when grooves of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) or deeper are present.
A dime may be used to determine disc brake groove depth. Place a dime in the groove, with
Roosevelt's head toward the groove. If the dime goes into the groove beyond the top of his head,
the groove exceeds 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) and the rotor should be serviced. (In Canada, if any portion
of the letters of "In Canada" are covered, the rotor should serviced.)
It the groove is too narrow for the dime to be inserted, it is not a cause for concern.
High Pedal Effort
Follow Service Manual diagnostic procedures for this condition. Service rotors if they have been
recently resurfaced. (The surface finish may be out-of-specification).
Lightly Rusted Rotors
Light surface rust on rotor braking surfaces is often cosmetic and can be eliminated during a few
normal driving stops. Rusting may occur when a vehicle is not driven for extended periods. Rotors
with surface rust on unsold new cars can usually be burnished clean by performing 15 moderate
stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between stops.
Facts About Brake Service
^ Original equipment rotor surfaces are ground to ensure smooth finish and parallelism between
mounting and friction surfaces. New rotors should not be resurfaced before installation.
^ Improper tightening of wheel nuts can induce lateral runout (distortion of braking surfaces) which
will lead to uneven wear. As high spots are worn down, resulting thickness variation will cause
brake pulsation.
^ Ensure wheel bearing flange is clean and free of corrosion before installing new rotors. A new
essential tool (Kent Moore tool J 42450) will soon be sent to all dealers. This tool makes it easier to
clean corrosion around the wheel studs.
^ Always mark the position of rotor on the hub before removal, and reinstall the rotor in the same
position.
^ Rotors with perceived hard spots or discoloration should not be serviced. These conditions are
normal.
^ Installation of new rotors does not require pad replacement. Do NOT replace pads unless their
condition requires it.
^ It is NOT necessary to replace rotors in pairs. Rotors may be serviced individually.
^ A TORQUE LIMITING SOCKET OR TORQUE WRENCH MUST BE USED to insure that the
wheel nuts are tightened to specification. This should be done in 3 steps using the star pattern.
1. Snug the nuts down by hand. 2. Using the star pattern and a torque limiting socket or torque
wrench, tighten the wheel nuts to about half the final torque. 3. Tighten the wheel nuts to
specification using the star pattern and a torque limiting socket or torque wrench.
^ NEVER use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel studs, nuts, or mounting surfaces. Wheel
nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7071
Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications
Rotor Diameter 10.197 in
Lateral Runout 0.003 in
Thickness Variation 0.0005 in
Rotor Thickness (Maximum) 0.786 in
Minimum Thickness After Refinish 0.751 in
Discard Thickness 0.736 in
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Check
Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Check
NOTICE: Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the wheel bearing flange, clean any
dust or foreign material from the mating surface of the rotor and flange. Failure to do this may result
in increased lateral runout of the rotor and brake pulsation.
Check the lateral runout with the wheels still installed on the vehicle. This gives a much more
accurate reading of the Total Indicated Runout (T.I.R.) under real braking conditions. If equipment
is not available to perform the check with the wheels installed. If leaving the wheels on the vehicle
is not possible. Check with the caliper still installed.
1. Clean the rotor surface.
IMPORTANT: If the wheel must be removed, reinstall the wheel nuts to retain the rotor. Tighten the
wheel nuts to the correct tightening specifications following the wheel nut tightening sequence.
2. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator button contacts the rotor
surface about 13 mm (0.5 in) from the outer edge. 3. Set the dial indicator to zero. 4. Turn the
wheel one complete revolution. 5. Observe the runout indicated on the dial. The total indicated
runout (T.I.R.) must not exceed 0.008 mm (0.003 in). 6. Refinish or replace the rotor if the lateral
runout exceeds the amount specified in the previous step.
Occasionally excessive lateral runout of the rotor may be improved by indexing the rotor on the hub
one or two bolt positions from the original position. If the lateral runout cannot be corrected by
indexing the rotor, check the hub and bearing assembly for excessive lateral runout or looseness. If
the hub and bearing assembly lateral runout exceeds 0.040 mm (0.0015 in), replace the hub and
bearing assembly. If lateral runout is within specifications, then refinish or replace the rotor as
necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Check > Page 7074
Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection Brake Rotor Thickness Variation Check
Check the thickness variation by measuring the rotor thickness at four or more points around the
circumference of the rotor. Use a micrometer calibrated in ten-thousands of an inch. Make all
measurements at the same distance in from the edge of the rotor.
A rotor that varies in thickness by more than 0.013 mm (0.0005 in) may cause a pedal pulsation
and/or a front end vibration during the brake applications. A rotor that does not meet these
specifications should be refinished to the specifications or replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Check > Page 7075
Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection Brake Rotor Tolerance
In manufacturing the brake rotor, tolerances of the braking surfaces for flatness, parallelism and
lateral runout are closely held. The maintenance of close tolerances on the shape of the braking
surfaces is necessary in order to prevent brake roughness or pulsation.
In addition to these tolerances, the surface finish must be held to a specific range. This range is 60
Ra roughness or less. The control of the braking surface finish is necessary in order to avoid
problems of hard pedal apply, excessive brake fade, pulls and erratic performance. Control of the
surface finish may improve the lining life.
Light scoring of the rotor surfaces not exceeding 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) in depth, which may result
from normal use, is not detrimental to brake operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Rotor Replacement (Brake Rotor)
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Brake Rotor Replacement (Brake Rotor)
Do not refinish the surfaces of new brake rotors. New rotors are at the correct level of finish
surface.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Rotor Replacement (Brake Rotor) > Page 7078
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Brake Rotor Replacement (Rotor Replacement)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise vehicle 2. Remove front tires. Refer to Wheel Removal. 3. Remove brake caliper. Refer to
Brake Caliper Replacement. 4. Remove brake rotor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install brake rotor. 2. Install brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement. 3. Install front
tires. Refer to Wheel Installation. 4. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Backing Plate > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Backing Plate: > 00-05-24-001 > Apr > 00 > Rear Drum
Brakes - Sticking/Won't Release
Backing Plate: Customer Interest Rear Drum Brakes - Sticking/Won't Release
File in Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-24-001
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Snow Intrusion Into Rear Drum Brake Assemblies
Models: 1985-87 Buick Somerset 1985-89 Buick Skyhawk 1985-98 Buick Skylark 1985-88 Cadillac
Cimarron 1985-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1985-88 Oldsmobile Firenza 1985-91 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Calais 1992-98 Oldsmobile Achieva 1985-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1985-98 Pontiac Grand Am
1995-2000 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition: Some customers may comment that after operating their vehicle in snow and then
parking the vehicle for an extended period, the rear brakes appear to remain applied.
Cause: On rare occasions, light powdery snow may enter one or both of the vehicle's rear drum
brake assemblies. If the vehicle is parked prior to the snow melt (water) being expelled, this may
result in the rear brake shoe(s) adhering/freezing to the brake drum(s). Normally, the brake shoe(s)
will break free of the drum upon placing the vehicle in gear. However, cases have been noted
where vehicle movement has been restricted until the brake assemblies have had an opportunity to
thaw.
Correction: Replace existing rear brake backing plates with new backing plates, P/N 18015841.
Refer to the Drum Brakes sub-section in the Service Manual for replacement procedures.
Parts Information
Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO, April 10, 2000.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use as shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Backing Plate > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Backing Plate: > 00-05-24-001 > Apr > 00 >
Rear Drum Brakes - Sticking/Won't Release
Backing Plate: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Drum Brakes - Sticking/Won't Release
File in Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-24-001
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Snow Intrusion Into Rear Drum Brake Assemblies
Models: 1985-87 Buick Somerset 1985-89 Buick Skyhawk 1985-98 Buick Skylark 1985-88 Cadillac
Cimarron 1985-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1985-88 Oldsmobile Firenza 1985-91 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Calais 1992-98 Oldsmobile Achieva 1985-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1985-98 Pontiac Grand Am
1995-2000 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition: Some customers may comment that after operating their vehicle in snow and then
parking the vehicle for an extended period, the rear brakes appear to remain applied.
Cause: On rare occasions, light powdery snow may enter one or both of the vehicle's rear drum
brake assemblies. If the vehicle is parked prior to the snow melt (water) being expelled, this may
result in the rear brake shoe(s) adhering/freezing to the brake drum(s). Normally, the brake shoe(s)
will break free of the drum upon placing the vehicle in gear. However, cases have been noted
where vehicle movement has been restricted until the brake assemblies have had an opportunity to
thaw.
Correction: Replace existing rear brake backing plates with new backing plates, P/N 18015841.
Refer to the Drum Brakes sub-section in the Service Manual for replacement procedures.
Parts Information
Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO, April 10, 2000.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use as shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Backing Plate > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7093
Backing Plate: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the brake drum. Refer to
Brake Drum Replacement. 3. Remove the inlet tube. 4. Remove the bolts (8) from the wheel
cylinder. 5. Remove the parking brake cable from the backing plate. 6. Remove the hub and
bearing assembly bolts. Refer to Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Replacement.
7. Remove the backing plate (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Backing Plate > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7094
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Install the bolts (8) to the wheel cylinder.
^ Tighten the wheel cylinder bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the backing plate (1) to the axle assembly. 3. Install the hub and bearing assembly with
bolts. Refer to Wheel Hub and Bearing Replacement. 4. Install the parking brake cable to the
backing plate. 5. Install the inlet tube.
^ Tighten the tube nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
6. Install the brake components. Refer to Brake Drum Replacement.
CAUTION: When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding brake linings, by
cleaning brake parts with a dry brush or with compressed air. Many earlier models or aftermarket
brake parts may contain asbestos fibers which can become airborne If dust Is created during
servicing. Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers may cause serious bodily harm. A water
dampened cloth or water based solution should be used to remove any dust on brake parts.
Equipment Is commercially available to perform this washing function. These wet methods will
prevent fibers from becoming airborne.
7. Bleed the brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding 8. Lower the vehicle. 9.
Adjust the rear brake assembly. Refer to Brake Drum Replacement.
10. Adjust the parking brake. Refer to Park Brake Cable Service/Adjustment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Specifications
Brake Drum: Specifications
Inside Diameter 7.874-7.890 in
Runout 0.0006 in
Maximum Re-Bore Diameter 7.899 in
Discard Diameter 7.929 in
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 7098
Brake Drum: Testing and Inspection
Servicing the front brakes will usually correct pulsation in the brake pedal. Service the rear brakes
only if the problem persists.
In order to determine if the front or rear brakes are at fault, drive the vehicle at low speed in an area
away from people and moving traffic (such as a large parking lot). Apply the parking brake and feel
for the pulsation. If a pulsation is not noticed, the fault is probably in the front brakes. When the
brake drums are removed, thoroughly clean and inspect the drums for the following conditions:
^ Cracks
^ Scores
^ Deep grooves
^ Out-of-round
^ Taper
Normal, light scoring of brake drum surfaces not exceeding 1.2 mm (0.050 in.) in depth will not
affect brake operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Brake Drum Replacement
Brake Drum: Service and Repair Brake Drum Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Tools Required
^ J 8049 Brake Spring Remover and Installer
^ J 29840 Brake Spring Remover and Installer
^ J 8057 Brake Spring Pliers
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
Lifting and Jacking in General Information.
Important:
^ Mark the relationship of the wheel to the axle flange in order to ensure proper wheel balance
upon assembly.
^ Mark the relationship of the brake drum to the axle flange in order to ensure proper wheel
balance upon assembly.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal. 3. Remove the brake drum. If
removing the brake drum is difficult, refer to the following steps:
^ Ensure that the parking brake is released.
^ Back off the parking brake adjustment cable.
^ Use a rubber mallet in order to tap gently on the outer rim of the chum and/or around the inner
drum diameter by the spindle. Do not use excessive force, which may deform the drum.
4. Remove the return springs (26, 27) using J 8049 or J 29840. 5. Remove the hold-down springs
(22) and pins (10) using suitable pliers. 6. Remove the actuator link (28) while lifting up on the
actuator lever (19). 7. Remove the actuator lever (19), the lever return spring (20), and the bearing
sleeve (18). 8. Remove the parking brake strut (5) and the strut spring (4). 9. Disconnect the
parking brake cable and remove the shoe and lining assemblies (29, 17).
10. Remove the adjusting screw assembly (21, 23, 24). 11. Remove the retaining ring (15), the pin
(30), and the parking brake lever (16) from the secondary shoe (17). If any parts are of doubtful
strength or
quality due to discoloration from heat, overstress, or wear, replace the parts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Brake Drum Replacement > Page 7101
CLEANING AND INSPECTION PROCEDURE
1. Before reinstalling the adjusting screw assembly (21, 23, 24), disassemble, clean and lubricate
the component parts. 2. Clean the threads on the adjusting screw (23) with a wire brush. 3. Wash
all components in clean denatured alcohol. 4. Apply brake lubricant or equivalent to the threads of
the adjusting screw (23), the inside diameter of the socket (21), and the socket face.
You have obtained an adequate supply of lubricant when a continuous bead of lubricant appears at
the open end of the pivot nut (24) and the socket (21) after you have fully engaged the threads.
5. Lubricate the six pads (12) where the brake shoes contact the backing plate. 6. Inspect the
threads of the adjusting screw (23) for smooth rotation over its full length.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the parking brake lever (16) into the secondary shoe (17) with the pin (30) and the
retaining ring (15).
2. Install the adjusting screw assembly (1, 2, 3) and the adjusting screw spring (4)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Brake Drum Replacement > Page 7102
3. Attach the parking brake cable. Install the shoe and lining assemblies (17, 29). 4. Install the
parking brake strut (5) and the strut spring (4), by spreading the shoes (17, 29) apart. Verify that
the shoes are positioned correctly:
^ The end without the strut spring (4) should engage the parking brake lever (16) and the
secondary shoe and lining (17)
^ The end with the strut spring (4) should engage the primary shoe and lining (29)
IMPORTANT: You must install the bearing sleeve (18) between the secondary shoe and lining (17)
and the actuator lever (19).
5. Install the bearing sleeve (18), the actuator lever (19), and the lever return spring (20).
6. Install the hold-down pins (10) and the hold-down springs (22). 7. Install the actuator link (28) on
the anchor pin (19) while you hold up on the lever. 8. Install the shoe return springs (26, 27) using J
8057. 9. Adjust the brakes. Refer to Drum Brake Adjustment.
10. Install the brake drum. Align the previous marks. 11. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer
to Wheel Installation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Brake Drum Replacement > Page 7103
12. Lower the vehicle. 13. Tighten the wheel nuts to specified torque.
Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications.
14. Adjust the parking brake. Refer to Park Brake Cable Service Adjustment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Brake Drum Replacement > Page 7104
Brake Drum: Service and Repair Brake Drum Refinishing (Drum Refinishing)
Remove only enough metal to obtain a true, smooth braking surface. A drum that does not
clean-up when refinished to a maximum re-bore diameter, replace it. Removal of more metal will
affect heat dissipation and may cause drum distortion.
All brake drums have a maximum diameter cast into them. This diameter is the maximum wear
diameter and not a finish diameter.
When refinishing a brake drum, resurface the drum to no more than a dimension of 0.76 mm (0.030
in) less than the discard diameter. The refinish diameter is the maximum diameter. The brake drum
may be refinished to and still allow safe braking action. If this dimension is exceeded, the brake
drum will wear beyond the discard diameter during normal brake wear.
Always use sharp cutting tools or bits. Dull or worn tools leave a poor surface finish which will
vibration dampening attachments when refinishing brake surfaces. These attachments eliminate
tool chatter so a better finish can be obtained.
The optimum speed for refinishing braking surfaces is a spindle speed of 150 RPM. Crossfeed for
rough cutting should range from 0.15-0.25 mm (0.006-0.010 in) per revolution. Finish cuts should
be made at crossfeeds no greater than 0.05 mm (0.002 in) per revolution.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Brake Drum Replacement > Page 7105
Brake Drum: Service and Repair Brake Drum Refinishing (Refinish Procedure)
Pulsation in the brake pedal is usually corrected by servicing the front brakes. Service the rear
brakes only if the problem persists. To determine whether the front or rear brakes are at fault use
the following test.
Test Procedure
1. Drive the vehicle at a low speed in an area away from people and moving traffic, such as a large
parking lot. 2. Apply the parking brake. 3. Feel for a pulsation.
If a pulsation is not noticed the problem is most likely in the front brakes.
Inspect Procedure
1. Remove the brake drums. 2. Thoroughly clean the brake drums. 3. Inspect the brake drums for
cracks, scores, deep grooves, out-of-round and taper
A normal, light scoring of the brake drum surfaces not exceeding 1.2 mm (0.050 in) in depth will not
affect the brake operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Brake Drum Replacement > Page 7106
Brake Drum: Service and Repair Brake Drum Refinishing (Out of Round or Tapered Drums)
An out-of-round or tapered drum prevents accurate brake shoe adjustment and is likely to cause
excessive wear of other brake parts due to its eccentric action. An out-of-round drum can cause
severe and irregular tire tread wear as well as a pulsating brake pedal. When the drum exceeds the
specification limits in taper and/or out-of-round, refinish the drum to true up the braking surface.
Out-of-round, as well as taper and wear, can be accurately measured with an inside micrometer
and extension rods. When measuring the drum for out-of-round, taper and wear, take
measurements at the open and closed edges of the machined surface and at right angles to each
other.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Specifications
Brake Shoe: Specifications
Replace the rear brake shoes when the thickness is worn to within 0.76 mm (0.030 in) of the shoe
or rivet head. Always replace the rear brake shoes as a complete axle set.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 7110
Brake Shoe: Testing and Inspection
Inspect the rear brake shoes every 6,000 miles and any time the wheels are removed (tire rotation,
etc.). Inspect the rear brake shoes for wear by removing the rear brake drum. Replace the rear
brake shoes when the thickness is worn to within 0.76 mm (0.030 in) of the shoe or rivet head.
Always replace the rear brake shoes as a complete axle set.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 7111
Brake Shoe: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Tools Required
^ J 8049 Brake Spring Remover and Installer, or
^ J 29840 Brake Spring Remover and Installer.
^ J 8057 Brake Spring Pliers.
1. Remove the return springs (1) using the J 8049 Brake Spring Remover and Installer, or the J
29840 Brake Spring Remover and Installer. 2. Remove the hold-down springs (1) and pins (3)
using suitable pliers. 3. Remove the actuator link while lifting up on the actuator lever.
4. Remove the bearing sleeve.
5. Remove the actuator lever (19) and the lever return spring(20). 6. Remove the parking brake
strut (5) and the strut spring(4). 7. Remove the shoe and lining assemblies (17 and 29) after
disconnecting the parking brake cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 7112
8. Remove the adjusting screw assembly and the adjusting screw spring.
9. Remove the retaining ring, the pin and the parking brake lever from the secondary shoe. If any
parts are of doubtful strength or quality due to
discoloration from heat, over-stress, or worn, the parts should be replaced.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the parking brake lever on the secondary shoe with the pin and the retaining ring.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 7113
2. Install the adjusting screw assembly and the adjusting screw spring. Before reinstalling the
adjusting screw assembly, it must be disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned and lubricated, as follows: ^
Clean the adjusting screw threads with a wire brush.
^ Wash all the components in clean, denatured alcohol.
^ Apply brake lubricant or equivalent to the adjusting screw threads, inside diameter of the socket
and socket face. Adequate lubrication is achieved when a continuous bead of lubricant is at the
open end of the pivot nut and socket, when the threads are fully engaged.
^ Lubricate the six pads on the backing plate where the backing plate makes contact with the brake
shoes.
^ Inspect the threads of the adjusting screw for smooth rotation over full length.
3. Install the shoe and lining assemblies, after attaching the parking brake cable. 4. Install the
parking brake strut and strut spring by spreading the shoes apart. To be properly positioned:
^ The end without the strut spring should engage the parking brake lever and the secondary shoe
and lining.
^ The end with the strut spring should engage the primary shoe and lining.
Important: The bearing sleeve must be installed between the secondary shoe and lining and the
actuator lever.
5. Install the bearing sleeve, the actuator lever and the lever return spring. 6. Install the hold-down
pins and the hold-down springs. 7. Install the actuator link on the anchor pin. 8. Install the actuator
link into the actuator lever while holding up on the lever. 9. Install the shoe return springs, using the
J 8057 Brake Spring Pliers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Wheel Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Bulletin No.: 03-05-24-001A
Date: March 21, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Service Information Regarding Rear Brake Drum Wheel Cylinder Inspections
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2005 and Prior Saturn Vehicles
with Rear Drum Brakes
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised add model years and include all GM vehicles. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 03-05-24-001 (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin provides information on proper inspection of rear drum brake wheel cylinders.
Important:
It is not recommended that dust boots be removed during inspection processes as dirt and debris
could contaminate the wheel cylinder bore causing premature wear of the wheel cylinder. In
addition, most bores should look damp and some lubricant may drip out from under the boot as a
result of lubricant being present.
All rear drum brake wheel cylinders are assembled with a lubricant to aid in assembly, provide an
anti-corrosion coating to the cylinder bore, and lubricate internal rubber components. As a result of
this lubrication process, it is not uncommon for some amount of lubricant to accumulate at the ends
of the cylinder under the dust boot.
Over time, the lubricant may work its way to the outside of the boot and cause an area of the boot
to look damp. Evidence of a damp area on the boot does not indicate a leak in the cylinder.
However, if there is excessive wetness (i.e. drips) coming from the boot area of the wheel cylinder,
it could indicate a brake hydraulic fluid leak requiring wheel cylinder replacement. (Refer to the
Wheel Cylinder Replacement procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7118
Wheel Cylinder: Specifications
Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Screw 62 in.lb
Wheel Cylinder to Backing Plate 15 ft.lb
Inlet Tube Nut 17 ft.lb
Wheel Cylinder Bore Diameter 0.689 in
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Cylinder Replacement
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Wheel Cylinder Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding brake linings, by
cleaning brake parts with a dry brush or with compressed air. Many earlier models or aftermarket
brake parts may contain asbestos fibers which can become airborne if dust is created during
servicing. Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers may cause serious bodily harm. A water
dampened cloth or water based solution should be used to remove any dust on brake parts.
Equipment Is commercially available to perform this washing function. These wet methods will
prevent fibers from becoming airborne.
2. Clean any dirt or foreign material around the wheel cylinder assembly inlet and pilot. 3. Remove
the inlet tube nut and line. Plug the opening in the line to prevent fluid loss and contamination. 4.
Remove the brake drum. Refer to Brake Drum Replacement. 5. Remove the hub and bearing
assembly. Refer to Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Replacement. 6. Pull the backing plate (1) away
from the axle flange. Do not let the backing plate hang from the parking brake cable as damage
may occur. Refer
to Drum Brake Backing Plate Replacement.
7. Remove the wheel cylinder bolts using a #6 Torch socket. 8. Remove the wheel cylinder (14).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Cylinder Replacement > Page 7121
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Install the wheel cylinder bolts (8) using a #6 Torx socket.
^ Tighten the wheel cylinder bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the backing plate (11) to the axle flange. 3. Install the hub and bearing assembly. Refer to
Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Replacement. 4. Install the brake drum. Refer to Brake Drum
Replacement. 5. Install the inlet tube line and nut.
^ Tighten the inlet tube nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding brake linings, by
cleaning brake parts with a dry brush or with compressed air. Many earlier models or aftermarket
brake parts may contain asbestos fibers which can become airborne if dust is created during
servicing. Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers may cause serious bodily harm. A water
dampened cloth or water based solution should be used to remove any dust on brake parts.
Equipment Is commercially available to perform this washing function. These wet methods will
prevent fibers from becoming airborne.
6. Bleed the wheel cylinder and then the complete brake system. Refer to Brake Bleeding.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Cylinder Replacement > Page 7122
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Wheel Cylinder Overhaul
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
1. Remove the wheel cylinder from the vehicle. Refer to Wheel Cylinder Replacement.
2. Remove the wheel cylinder boots (4). 3. Remove the wheel cylinder pistons (3) and seals (2). 4.
Remove the wheel cylinder spring assembly (5). 5. Remove the wheel cylinder bleeder valve (6). 6.
Inspect the cylinder bore (1) and pistons (3) for scoring, nicks, corrosion and wear. Use a crocus
cloth in order to polish out light corrosion.
Replace the wheel cylinder assembly if the bore will not clean up using the crocus cloth.
7. Clean all the parts in clean, denatured alcohol. 8. Dry the parts with unlubricated, compressed
air.
CAUTION: When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding brake linings, by
cleaning brake parts with a dry brush or with compressed air. Many earlier models or aftermarket
brake parts may contain asbestos fibers which can become airborne If dust is created during
servicing. Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers may cause serious bodily harm. A water
dampened cloth or water based solution should be used to remove any dust on brake parts.
Equipment Is commercially available to perform this washing function.
These wet methods will prevent fibers from becoming airborne.
Notice: Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. Shop cloths and clean containers should be used
to prevent spillage of brake fluid.
9. Lubricate the new seals (2) with clean brake fluid.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Cylinder Replacement > Page 7123
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Install the bleeder valve (6).
^ Tighten the bleeder valve to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.).
2. Install the spring assembly (5). 3. Install the seals (2), pistons (3) and boots (4). 4. Install the
wheel cylinder to the vehicle. Refer to Wheel Cylinder Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Motor Rehome Procedure
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Motor Rehome Procedure
REHOME TEST
The motor rehome function will return all of the hydraulic modulator pistons to their upmost home,
position. This allows all fluid paths within the modulator to be open so that the modulator can be
properly bled. The motor rehome function must ALWAYS be used prior to bleeding the brake
system
IMPORTANT: The motor rehome function cannot be performed if any current DTCs are present. If
current DTCs are present, the vehicle must be repaired and DTCs cleared before performing the
motor rehome function.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Motor Rehome Procedure > Page 7129
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding
CAUTION: Do not move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Air In the brake system
can cause the loss of brakes with possible personal injury.
A bleeding operation is necessary in order to remove air from the hydraulic brake system whenever
air is introduced into the brake system. Bleed the hydraulic system at all four brakes if air has been
introduced into the system through low fluid level or by disconnecting the brake pipes at the master
cylinder. If a brake pipe is disconnected at one wheel, bleed only that wheel cylinder/caliper. If the
pipes are disconnected at any fitting located between the master cylinder and brakes, bleed the
brake system served by the disconnected pipe. Observe the following steps in order to reduce the
time required to bleed the hydraulic system:
^ Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir is filled with brake fluid.
^ Expel as much air as possible before installing the master cylinder on the vehicle.
MANUAL BLEEDING
Tools Required ^
J 21472 Brake Bleeder Wrench
Apply the brakes several times with the ignition OFF. This will deplete the vacuum reserve. Use
extreme care in order to prevent brake fluid from contacting painted surfaces. 1. Fill the master
cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid in Maintenance and Lubrication in General
Information.
^ Maintain the fluid level in the reservoir during the bleeding operation.
^ Use an assistant in the vehicle in order to press the brake pedal during the manual bleeding
process.
2. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have air in the bore, bleed the master cylinder
before the wheel cylinder or the calipers are bled.
Complete the following steps:
3. Disconnect the forward brake pipe connections) (1) at the master cylinder. 4. Fill the master
cylinder with brake fluid until fluid begins to flow from the forward pipe connector port. 5. Connect
the forward brake pipe to the master cylinder. Tighten the pipe. 6. Slowly depress the brake pedal
and hold the pedal.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Motor Rehome Procedure > Page 7130
7. Loosen the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder in order to purge air from the
cylinder. 8. Tighten the connection. 9. Slowly release the brake pedal.
10. Wait 15 seconds. 11. Repeat the previous eight steps until all air is removed from the bore.
Use extreme care in order to prevent brake fluid from contacting painted surfaces.
12. Bleed the master cylinder at the rear (cowl end) connections after all the air has been removed
at the forward connections. Slowly depress the
brake pedal and hold the pedal.
13. Check for a firm pedal feel and proper brake pedal travel. If the wheel cylinders and calipers do
not contain air, bleeding is not necessary, but
recommended in order to remove any moisture or debris.
14. After all air is removed from the master cylinder, bleed the wheel cylinders in the following
order, if necessary:
14.1. Right rear 14.2. Left rear 14.3. Right front 14.4. Left front
15. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking.
16. Place a proper size box end wrench (1) (or special tool) over the caliper/cylinder bleeder valve.
17. Attach a transparent tube (2) over the bleeder screw.
Submerge the other end in a transparent container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
18. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold the pedal. 19. Loosen the bleeder screw in order to
purge the air from the cylinder/caliper.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
20. Tighten the bleeder screw.
^ Tighten the rear bleeder screws to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.).
^ Tighten the front bleeder screws to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
21. Slowly release the pedal. 22. Wait 15 seconds. 23. Repeat the previous five steps until all air is
removed from the caliper.
Do not pump the brake pedal rapidly. Pumping the pedal pushes the master cylinder secondary
piston down the bore which causes difficult bleeding.
24. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Motor Rehome Procedure > Page 7131
25. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. 26. Check the brake pedal for sponginess or
excessive travel.
Repeat the entire manual bleeding procedure in order to correct either of the two conditions.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
Tools Required ^
J 29532 Diaphragm Type Brake Bleeder
^ J 35589 pressure Bleeder Adapter Cap
^ J 21472 Brake Bleeder Wrench
NOTICE: Pressure bleeding equipment must be of the diaphragm type. It must have a rubber
diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, oil and other
contaminants from entering the hydraulic system.
1. Install the J 35589 to the master cylinder 2. Charge the J 29532 to 140-172 kPa (20-25 psi). 3.
Connect the line to the J 35589. 4. Open the line valve. 5. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle.
Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking. 6. Bleed the wheel cylinders/calipers in the following order, if
necessary:
6.1. Right rear 6.2. Left rear 6.3. Right front 6.4. Left front
7. Place the J 21472 over the caliper/cylinder bleeder valve. 8. Attach a transparent tube over the
bleeder screw.
Submerge the opposite hose end in a transparent container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
9. Open the bleeder screw at least 3/4 of a turn.
Allow the fluid to flow until no air is visible in the fluid.
10. Close the bleeder screw.
^ Tighten the rear bleeder screws to 7 Nm (6.2 inch lbs.).
^ Tighten the front bleeder screws to 13 Nm ( 115 inch lbs.).
11. Repeat the previous four steps until all of the calipers/cylinders have been bled.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Motor Rehome Procedure > Page 7132
12. Lower the vehicle. 13. Inspect the brake pedal for sponginess. Repeat this entire pressure
bleeding procedure in order to correct this conditions. 14. Remove the J 35589 and the J 29532.
15. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Caliper Bleeder Screws 115 in.lb
Caliper Inlet Fitting 34 ft.lb
Caliper Mounting Bolts 38 ft.lb
Caliper Bore Diameter 2.244 in
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Brake Caliper Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder assembly. 2. Raise the vehicle and
suitably support the vehicle. 3. Mark the relationship of the wheel to the hub and bearing assembly
in order to ensure proper wheel balance upon reassembly. 4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Refer to Wheel Removal.
Reinstall two wheel nuts in order to retain the rotor to hub and bearing assembly.
5. Push the piston into the caliper bore in order to provide clearance between the linings and the
rotor.
6. Install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard
shoe.
Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston is pushed into the caliper bore enough in order to slide
the caliper assembly off the rotor.
7. Remove the bolt attaching inlet fitting (5) only when the caliper (2) is to be removed from the
vehicle for unit repair (overhaul). If only the shoe
and linings are being replaced, there is no need to disconnect the inlet fitting (5). Plug the exposed
inlet fitting (5) in the caliper housing and the brake hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
8. Remove the caliper mounting bolts (1) and sleeve assemblies.
9. Remove the caliper from the rotor and knuckle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7138
^ Do not let the caliper (2) hang from the brake hose. Damage may occur.
^ If the caliper assembly is not being removed from the vehicle for unit repair, suspend the caliper
with a wire hook from the strut (1).
10. Inspect the mounting bolts (1) and sleeve (4) assemblies for corrosion. 11. Inspect the
bushings (2) for cuts and nicks. 12. If damage to either part is found, replace with new parts when
installing the caliper. 13. Do no attempt to polish away corrosion.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Liberally coat the inside of the diameter of the bushings (4) with silicone grease (4).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the mounting bolts (1) and sleeve (4) assemblies (1).
3. Install the caliper (2) over the rotor into the knuckle.
^ Tighten the mounting bolt and sleeve assemblies to 51 Nm (38 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7139
4. Install the inlet fitting, if the inlet fitting was removed.
^ Tighten the inlet fitting to 44 Nm (32 ft. lbs.).
5. Perform the following steps in order to install the wheel and tire, aligning the previous marks:
5.1. Remove the wheel nuts securing the rotor to the hub and bearing assembly. 5.2. Install the
wheel and tire assembly with the retaining nuts in the proper sequence. Refer to Wheel Installation.
5.3. Lower the vehicle. 5.4. Tighten the wheel nuts. Refer to Wheel Fastner Specifications.
6. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with clean brake fluid. Refer to Master Cylinder
Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.
6.1. Bleed the caliper if the inlet fitting was removed. Refer to Brake Bleeding in Hydraulic Brakes.
6.2. Recheck the fluid level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes. 6.3.
Recheck the brake pedal feel. If brake spongyness is present, refer to Brake System Testing and
Inspection.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7140
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Brake Caliper Overhaul
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the caliper completely from the vehicle. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement. 2.
Disassemble the bushings (6). 3. Inspect the bushings (6) for cuts and nicks. Replace the bushings
(6) if damaged.
CAUTION: Do not place your fingers In front of the piston in order to catch or protect the piston
while applying compressed air. This could result in serious injury.
IMPORTANT: Use clean shop towels in order to pad the interior of the caliper housing during the
removal.
4. Remove the piston using compressed air into the caliper inlet hole (1). 5. Inspect the piston for
scoring, nicks, corrosion and worn or damaged chrome plating. Replace the piston if any of these
conditions are found.
6. Remove the boot (2) from the caliper housing bore. Be careful not to scratch the housing bore.
Notice: Do not use a metal tool for seal removal. Damage to the caliper bore or the seal grooves
can result.
7. Remove the piston seal grove in the caliper housing bore with a small wood or plastic tool. 8.
Inspect the caliper housing bore and seal groove for scoring, nicks, corrosion and wear. 9. Use a
crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion.
10. Replace the caliper (1) housing if corrosion in and around the seal groove will not clean up with
a crocus cloth.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7141
11. Remove the bleeder valve and bleeder valve (5) cap from the caliper. 12. Clean all parts in
clean, denatured alcohol. 13. Dry the parts with unlubricated compressed air. 14. Blow out all
passages in the caliper housing and bleeder valve.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Tools Required ^
J29077-A Front Disc Brake Caliper Dust Boot Installer
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Assemble the bleeder valve (5) and bleeder valve cap into caliper.
^ Tighten the bleeder valve to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
2. Lubricate the new piston seal (2) and install the new piston seal into the caliper bore groove. 3.
Make sure the seal (2) is not twisted.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 7142
4. Install the lubricated boot (2) onto the piston (1). 5. Install the piston and boot onto the bore of
the caliper and push to the bottom of the bore.
6. Seat boot fin the caliper housing counter bore using J29077-A. 7. Perform the following steps in
order to install the bushings:
7.1. Lubricate the beveled end of the bushing with silicone grease, or the equivalent. 7.2. Pinch the
bushing and install the bevel end first. 7.3. Push the bushing through the housing mounting bore.
8. Install the caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
Brake Fluid: Technical Service Bulletins Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-22-004
Date: May, 2000
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Fluid Level and Filling Recommendations
Models: 2001 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Many dealers and after-market repair shops advertise multi-point fluid "top-ups" in conjunction with
oil changes or regular maintenance packages. These offers often include adding brake fluid to the
master cylinder reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the brake
reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid level goes down an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When the linings are replaced, the fluid will return to it's original level.
The second possible reason for a low fluid level is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If
fluid is leaking, the brake system requires repair and adding additional fluid will not correct the leak.
If the system was properly filled during delivery of the vehicle, no additional fluid should be required
under most circumstances between brake pad and/or shoe replacements. This information can be
reinforced with the customer by referring them to the Brake Fluid section of their vehicle's Owner's
Manual.
Guidelines
GM vehicles have incorporated a variety of brake fluid reservoir styles. The following guidelines are
restricted to the plastic bodied fluid reservoirs and do not affect the original service
recommendations for the older style metal bodied units.
You may encounter both black plastic and translucent style reservoirs. You may have reservoirs
with:
^ A MAX fill mark only
^ A MIN fill mark only
^ Both MAX and MIN marks
The translucent style reservoirs do not have to have the covers removed in order to view the fluid
level. It is a good practice not to remove the reservoir cover unless necessary to reduce the
possibility of contaminating the system. Use the following guidelines to assist in determining the
proper fluid level.
Important:
When adding brake fluid, use Delco Supreme II(R) Brake Fluid, GM P/N 12377967 or equivalent
brand bearing the DOT-3 rating only.
Important:
At no time should the fluid level be allowed to remain in an overfilled condition. Overfilling the brake
reservoir may put unnecessary stress on the seals and cover of the reservoir. Use the following
guidelines to properly maintain the fluid level. If the reservoir is overfilled, siphon out the additional
fluid to comply with the guidelines below.
Important:
If under any circumstance the brake fluid level is extremely low in the reservoir or the BRAKE
warning indicator is illuminated, the brake system should be checked for leaks and the system
repaired in addition to bringing the fluid level up to the recommended guidelines outlined below. A
leaking brake system will have reduced braking performance and will eventually not work at all.
Important:
Some vehicles have reservoirs that are very sensitive to brake fluid levels and may cause the
BRAKE indicator to flicker on turns as the fluid approaches the minimum required level. If you
encounter a vehicle with this concern, increase the fluid level staying within the guidelines outlined
below.
^ If the reservoir has a MAX level indicator, the reservoir should be returned to the MAX marking
only at the time new brake pads and/or shoes are installed. If the reservoir fluid level is at the
half-way point or above do not attempt to add additional brake fluid during routine fluid checks.
^ If the reservoir has both MAX and MIN indicators, the fluid level should be maintained above the
MIN indicator during routine fluid checks and returned to the MAX indication only after new brake
pads and/or shoes are installed.
^ For reservoirs with only a MIN indication, the fluid level should be maintained above the MIN
indicator during routine fluid checks. Return the
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations > Page 7147
reservoir fluid level to full only after installing new brake pads and/or shoes. A full reservoir is
indicated on translucent, snap cover reservoirs by a fluid level even with the top level of the view
window imprinted into the side of the reservoir. On screw top models in black or translucent plastic,
the full level is just below the bottom of the filler neck.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
12377967 Brake Fluid
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7148
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Brake System DOT 3
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Brake Fluid
Brake Fluid: Service Precautions Brake Fluid
CAUTION: Brake fluid may Irritate eyes and skin. In case of contact, take the following actions:
^ Eye contact-rinse thoroughly with water.
^ Skin contact-wash with soap and water.
^ If Ingested-consult a physician Immediately.
NOTICE: Brake fluid is extremely damaging to paint. If fluid should accidentally touch a painted
surface, immediately wipe fluid from paint and clean the painted surface.
Use Delco Supreme II Brake Fluid or an equivalent DOT-3 motor vehicle brake fluid. DOT-5
silicone fluid is not recommended for use in the vehicle's base brake system. DO NOT use DOT-5
brake fluid in the antilock brake system.
Always store the brake fluid in a closed container. Reseal brake fluid containers immediately after
use.
Brake fluid that is left in an open or improperly sealed container will absorb moisture. This may
lower the fluid's boiling point and may result in system contamination, corrosion or deterioration of
the rubber components.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Brake Fluid > Page 7151
Brake Fluid: Service Precautions Substandard Brake Fluid
NOTICE: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Do not use any fluid from a
container which is wet with water. Do not use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. Improper brake fluid,
mineral oil or water in the fluid may cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components to
deteriorate. Keep all fluid containers capped to prevent contamination.
IMPORTANT: Improper brake fluid such as, mineral oil or water in the fluid, may cause the brake
fluid to boil or the rubber components in the hydraulic system to deteriorate.
Upon inspection, if the primary piston cups are swollen, then rubber parts have deteriorated. This
deterioration may also be evidenced by the swollen wheel cylinder piston cups on the drum brake
wheel cylinders or the master cylinder cover diaphragm.
If deterioration of rubber parts is evident disassemble all hydraulic parts and was with alcohol. Dry
these parts with unlubricated compressed air before assembly to keep alcohol out of the system.
Replace all rubber parts when in the system, including hoses. Also, when working on the brake
mechanisms, check for fluid on the brake linings. If any fluid is found, replace the linings.
If the master cylinder piston seals are satisfactory, check for leakage or excessive heat conditions.
If excessive heat conditions are not found, drain the fluid. Flush, the system with brake fluid. Refill
and bleed the system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Brake Fluid Level Switch Location
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations Brake Fluid Level Switch Location
Left hand rear of engine compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Brake Fluid Level Switch Location > Page 7156
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations Brake Fluid Level Indicator, ABS
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Brake Fluid Level Switch Location > Page 7157
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 7158
Brake Fluid Level Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 7159
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fluid level switch (1).
2. Disconnect the fluid level switch using needle nose pliers in order to compress the switch locking
tabs (1) at the inboard side of the master
cylinder.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the fluid level switch into the master cylinder reservoir until the locking tabs (3) snap
into place.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 7160
2. Connect the electrical connector to the fluid level switch (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Brake Hose/Line: > NHTSA00V053000 > Feb > 00 > Recall
00V053000: CNG Fuel and/or Brake System Leak
Brake Hose/Line: Recalls Recall 00V053000: CNG Fuel and/or Brake System Leak
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles equipped with Bi-Fuel Compressed Natural Gas (CNG)
vehicles. The CNG fuel line and the CNG high pressure regulator coolant lines can contact other
fuel (gasoline) and brake lines on the vehicle. Abrasion from contact can cause a leak in the brake
pipe, fuel pipe, or both. Abrasion from contact can cause a leak in the brake pipe, fuel pipe, or both.
A brake fluid leak could disable a portion of the brake system, causing longer stopping distances.
Gasoline leaking from a fuel pipe, in the presence of an ignition source, could cause a vehicle fire.
Dealers will inspect and reposition the CNG fuel and coolant pipes and reposition/repair any
damaged fuel or brake pipes as necessary.
Owner notification began March 17, 2000.
Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not
receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020. Also
contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at
1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Hose/Line: > NHTSA00V053000 > Feb
> 00 > Recall 00V053000: CNG Fuel and/or Brake System Leak
Brake Hose/Line: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 00V053000: CNG Fuel and/or Brake
System Leak
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles equipped with Bi-Fuel Compressed Natural Gas (CNG)
vehicles. The CNG fuel line and the CNG high pressure regulator coolant lines can contact other
fuel (gasoline) and brake lines on the vehicle. Abrasion from contact can cause a leak in the brake
pipe, fuel pipe, or both. Abrasion from contact can cause a leak in the brake pipe, fuel pipe, or both.
A brake fluid leak could disable a portion of the brake system, causing longer stopping distances.
Gasoline leaking from a fuel pipe, in the presence of an ignition source, could cause a vehicle fire.
Dealers will inspect and reposition the CNG fuel and coolant pipes and reposition/repair any
damaged fuel or brake pipes as necessary.
Owner notification began March 17, 2000.
Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not
receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020. Also
contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at
1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Brake Line
Brake Hose/Line: Specifications Brake Line
Brake Pipe Tube Nuts .........................................................................................................................
..................................................... 23 N.m (17 ft. lbs.) Brake Pipes at Master Cylinder ......................
......................................................................................................................................... 23 N.m (17
ft. lbs.) Brake Line Bracket to Axle Screw
..........................................................................................................................................................
15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.) Brake Line Bracket to Body Screw
...................................................................................................................................................... 11
N.m (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Brake Line > Page 7176
Brake Hose/Line: Specifications Brake Hose
Brake Hose to Caliper .........................................................................................................................
.................................................... 44 N.m (32 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7177
Brake Hose/Line: Service Precautions
Caution: Always use double walled steel brake pipe when replacing brake pipes. The use of any
other pipe is not recommended and may cause brake system failure. Carefully route and retain
replacement brake pipes. Always use the correct fasteners and the original location for
replacement brake pipes. Failure to properly route and retain brake pipes may cause damage to
the brake pipes and cause brake system failure.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7178
Brake Hose/Line: Testing and Inspection
IMPORTANT: Do not allow brake components such as the calipers to hang from the flexible hoses.
This can damage the hoses. Brake hoses may have protective rings or covers. This is to prevent
direct contact direct contact of the hose with other chassis parts. Other than the possible structural
damage, excessive tension can also cause the hose rings to move out of place.
^ Inspect the hydraulic brake hoses (1) at least twice a year.
^ Inspect the brake hose assemblies (5) for the following conditions: - Road hazard damage Cracks and chafing of the outer cover - Leaks and blisters - Proper routing and mounting
^ If any of the above conditions are found, adjust or replace the hose assembly. A brake hose
which rubs on other components will wear and eventually fail.
^ Use a light and a mirror in order to thoroughly inspect the hose assemblies.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7179
Brake Hose/Line: Service and Repair
Tools Required
J29803-A ISO Flaring Kit
NOTICE: Do not use a single lap flaring tools. Double lap flaring tools must be used to produce a
flare strong enough to hold the system pressure. Using lap single flaring tools could cause system
damage.
1. Obtain the recommended pipe and steel fitting nuts of the correct size.
Use the outside diameter of the pipe in order to specify the size.
2. Cut the pipe to the correct length using a pipe cutter.
Advance the tool only a small amount per turn of the tool. Do not force the cutter.
3. Measure the old pipe in order to determine the correct length of the pipe. Use a string in order to
measure, and add 3.2 mm (1/8 inch) for each ISO
flare.
4. Install the fittings before starting the flare. 5. Chamfer the inside and the outside diameter of the
pipe using a de-burring tool. 6. Remove all traces of lubricant from the brake pipe and the J
29803-A.
7. Clamp the J29803-A in a vise. 8. Select the correct size collet (2) and forming mandrel for the
pipe size used.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7180
9. Insert the properly formed mandrel (3) into the J 29803-A.
10. Hold the forming mandrel (3) in place using your finger. 11. Thread in the forcing screw (2) until
contact is made and the screw begins to move the forming mandrel (3).
12. Turn the forcing screw back one complete turn. 13. Slide the clamping nut over the brake pipe.
14. insert the prepared brake pipe into the correct collet (2). Leave approximately 19 mm (0.750 in)
of tubing extending out of the collet. Insert the
assembly into the J 29803-A. Ensure that the brake pipe end contacts the face of the forming
mandrel.
15. Tighten the clamping nut (1) into the J29803-A body tightly in order to ensure that the pipe will
not push out. 16. Wrench tighten the forcing screw until the screw bottoms. Do not over tighten the
forcing screw or the flare may become oversized. 17. Back the clamping nut (1) out of the J
29803-A. 18. Disassemble the clamping nut (1) and the collet assembly. 19. The flare is now ready
for use. 20. Bend the pipe assembly to match the old pipe. 21. Maintain a clearance of 19 mm
(0.0750 in) to all moving or vibrating parts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Specifications
Brake Proportioning/Combination Valve: Specifications
Proportioning Valve Caps ....................................................................................................................
.................................................... 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7184
Brake Proportioning/Combination Valve: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding brake linings, by
cleaning brake parts with a dry brush or with compressed air. Many earlier models or aftermarket
brake parts may contain asbestos fibers which can become airborne If dust Is created during
servicing. Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers may cause serious bodily harm. A water
dampened cloth or water based solution should be used to remove any dust on brake parts.
Equipment Is commercially available to perform this washing function. These wet methods will
prevent fibers from becoming airborne.
NOTICE: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
1. Remove the master cylinder reservoir, if necessary. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir
Replacement.
2. Remove the proportioner valve caps (1).
3. Remove the proportioner valve cap O-rings. Discard the O-rings (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7185
4. Remove the proportioner valve piston springs (1)
5. Remove the proportioner valve pistons using needle nose pliers. Do not scratch or damage the
piston stems (1).
6. Remove the proportioner valve seals (1) from the proportioner valve pistons. 7. Clean all parts
with denatured alcohol. 8. Dry all parts using non-lubricated compressed air. 9. Inspect the
proportioner valve pistons for corrosion or deformation.
10. Replace the parts if defects are found.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7186
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Lubricate the new proportioner valve cap O-rings (5) and proportioner valve seals (4) with
silicone grease that is supplied in the repair kit. 2. Lubricate the stem of the proportioner valve
pistons (1).
3. Connect the new proportioner valve seals (1) on the proportioner valve pistons.
Install the proportioner valve pistons with the seal lips facing upward toward the proportioner valve
cap.
4. Install the proportioner valve pistons (1) and seals in the master cylinder body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7187
5. Install the proportioner valve piston springs (1) in the master cylinder body.
6. Connect the new proportioner valve cap O-rings (1) in the grooves in the proportioner valve
caps.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
7. Install the proportioner valve caps (1) in the master cylinder body.
^ Tighten the proportioner valve caps to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the master cylinder reservoir if removed. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir
Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Specifications
Hydraulic Assembly: Specifications
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 7193
Hydraulic Assembly: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 7194
LF And RF ABS Solenoid And ABS Actuator Motor Assembly Connectors
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 7195
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 7196
Brake Fluid Level Indicator And Cruise Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 7197
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Locations > Page 7198
Hydraulic Assembly: Diagrams
LF ABS Solenoid
RF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair ABS Motor Pack Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the gear cover (3).
Important:
^ Use care when handling the motor pack to avoid damaging the motor pack connector. Make sure
brake fluid does not accidentally intrude into the motor pack. Brake fluid in the motor pack may
cause a premature failure of the motor pack.
^ Use care when handling the motor packs. Replace the motor packs if the motor packs are
dropped or damages during handling.
2. Remove the Torx head screws (5) that attach the motor pack (1). 3. Remove the motor pack
assembly (1).
Important: If the disassembly of the modulator/master cylinder assembly was caused by an ABS or
ETS hydraulic functional test that did not pass, the Automated ABS brake motor pack Diagnosis
Test should be performed. Refer to Scan Tool diagnostics in Antilock Brake System. The
Automated ABS brake motor pack Diagnosis Test isolates the motor pack or brake modulator. No
repair of the motor pack is authorized. Replace as an assembly.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. With the modulator positioned upside down, rotate each ABS brake modulator gear
counterclockwise until movement stops.
The above procedure will cause the following conditions: ^
The pistons on the ABS brake modulator will be positioned very close to the top of the modulator
bore.
^ The brake bleeding procedure becomes simplified.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 7201
IMPORTANT: Use care when handling the motor packs. Replace the motor packs if the motor
packs are dropped or damaged during handling.
Align each of the three motor pack pinions with the modulator gears.
2. Install the motor pack (1) to the modulator assembly (6). 3. Install Torx head screws (4).
^ Tighten the Torx head screws to 4.5 Nm (40 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
4. Install the gear cover (3) onto the modulator/brake master cylinder assembly. 5. Perform Motor
Rehome Procedure. 6. Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 7202
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Brake Modulator Gear Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The modulator drive gears are under spring load and will turn during disassembly. After
removing brake modulator drive gear cover, exercise extreme care not to place fingers intor the
gear set, since fingers can be pinched by rotating gears.
NOTICE: Do not allow gear to turn while removing the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
hit the top of the modulator bore, damaging the piston. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the
gears (not between the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the
gear from turning, aiding in gear removal. IMPORTANT: Do not repair damaged motor packs or
brake modulators. Other than modulator drive gears replacement, repair of the motor pack and
brake modulator assemblies is not authorized. Do not oil or lubricate the gears on the motor pack.
1. Remove the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly. Refer to Brake Modulator Replacement
in Hydraulic Assembly. 2. Remove the Torx head screws that attach the gear cover. 3. Remove the
motor pack to modulator Torx head screws.
Important: Use care when handling the motor pack. Replace the motor pack if the motor pack is
dropped or damaged during handling.
4. Separate the motor pack from the modulator. 5. Remove three modulator drive gear retaining
nuts. 6. Remove the gears from the modulator.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Position the modulator drive gears onto the modulator drive shaft.
Notice: Do not allow gear to turn while removing the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
hit the top of the modulator bore, damaging the piston. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the
gears (not between the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the
gear from turning, aiding in gear removal.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 7203
2. Install three gear retaining nuts.
^ Tighten the nuts to 8.5 Nm (75 inch lbs.).
3. With either of the modulators positioned upside down, and the gears facing your, rotate each
ABS brake modulator gear counterclockwise until
movement stops.
Rotating the modulator gears will cause the following conditions: ^
The pistons on the ABS brake modulator will be positioned very close to the top of the modulator
bore.
^ The brake bleeding procedure is simplified.
Important: Use care when handling the motor pack. Replace the motor pack if the motor pack is
dropped or damaged during handling.
4. Position the motor pack onto the modulator, aligning the three motor pack gears with the
modulator gears. 5. Install motor pack to modulator Torx head screws.
^ Tighten the Torx head screws to 4.5 Nm (40 ft. lbs.).
6. Install the gear cover onto the modulator with Torx head screws.
^ Tighten the Torx head screws to 4 Nm (45 inch lbs.)
7. Install the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly. Refer to Brake Modulator Replacement in
Hydraulic Assembly. 8. Perform the Motor Rehome Procedure. 9. Perform the Diagnostic System
Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 7204
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Brake Modulator Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly. Refer to Brake Modulator/Master
Cylinder Asm Replacement. 2. Remove the Torx head screws (5) attaching the gear cover (4). 3.
Remove the gear cover (4). 4. Remove the four Torx head screws (6) attaching the motor pack (1)
to the brake modulator (2). 5. Remove the motor pack (1) from the brake modulator (2). 6. Remove
the two brake modulator to master cylinder banjo bolts, separate the brake modulator from the
master cylinder. 7. Remove the two transfer tubes with the O-rings from the master cylinder or the
brake modulator. 8. Remove the banjo bolt O-rings from the master cylinder and the brake
modulator.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: When replacing the ABS brake modulator, install the three gears in the same
location on the replacement brake modulator. Refer to Brake Modulator Gear Replacement in
Hydraulic Assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 7205
No repair of the ABS brake modulator is authorized. Replace the ABS brake modulator as an
assembly.
IMPORTANT: Use new transfer tube assemblies when assembling the ABS brake
modulator/master cylinder assembly. Be sure to properly install two O-rings on each transfer tube.
1. Use the following procedure in order to install the two transfer assemblies:
1.1. Lubricate the transfer tube assembly O-rings with clean brake fluid. 1.2. Install the transfer
tube assemblies into ports of the ABS brake modulator.
Push the tube assemblies in by hand to the bottom of the ports.
2. Lubricate the new banjo bolt 0-ring with clean brake fluid. 3. Install the banjo bolt 0-ring into the
master cylinder and the ABS brake modulator. 4. Use the following procedure in order to install the
ABS brake modulator onto the master cylinder:
4.1. Clamp the mounting flange of the master cylinder in a vise. 4.2. Hold the ABS brake modulator
and rock the modulator into position on the master cylinder. 4.3. Insert the transfer tube assemblies
into the master cylinder ports.
5. Install two ABS brake modulator to master cylinder banjo bolts.
Tighten Tighten the banjo bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
6. With the ABS brake modulator positioned upside down, and the gears facing you, rotate each
ABS brake modulator gear counterclockwise until
movement stops. The procedure causes the following conditions: ^
The pistons are positioned very close to the top of the modulator bore.
^ The brake bleeding procedure is simplified.
7. Install the ABS brake motor pack (1) onto the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly (2). 8.
Install the four Torx head screws (6) that retain the motor pack (1) to the brake modulator (2).
Tighten Tighten the four Torx head screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.).
9. Install the gear cover (4) to the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly (2).
10. Install the Torx head screws (5) that retain the gear cover (4).
Tighten Tighten the Torx head screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.).
11. Install the brake modulator/master cylinder assembly. Refer to Brake Modulator/Master
Cylinder Asm Replacement 12. Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 7206
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Modulator Gear Cover Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the Torx head screws (4) that attach the gear cover (3). 2. Remove the gear cover (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the gear cover (3) onto the modulator/master cylinder assembly. 2. Install the Torx head
screws (4).
^ Tighten the Torx screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > ABS Motor Pack Replacement > Page 7207
other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such
coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the
fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications.
Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Hydraulic Control Assembly
- Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Hydraulic Control Assembly
- Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 7216
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Hydraulic Control Assembly
- Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 7217
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light
ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) >
Page 7223
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) >
Page 7224
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Specifications
Brake Master Cylinder: Specifications
Fastener Tightening Specifications
Master Cylinder Assembly to Power Booster Nuts
............................................................................................................................. 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
Dimensions
Master Cylinder Bore Diameter
.....................................................................................................................................................
22.20 mm (0.874 inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 7228
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 7229
Brake Master Cylinder: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT:
^ Install all new components included in the repair kit that are used in order to service the master
cylinder.
^ Lubricate rubber parts with clean brake fluid in order to ease assembly.
^ Do not use lubricated compressed air on brake parts. Damage to rubber components may result.
^ If any hydraulic component is removed or disconnected, bleed all or part of the brake system.
^ The fastener tightening specifications are for dry, non-lubricated fasteners.
^ Perform service operations on a clean bench, free from all mineral oil materials.
The master cylinder for this vehicle is a composite design which contains a plastic reservoir and an
aluminum body. This design is used in a diagonally split system. One of the front and one of the
diagonally opposite rear brakes are served by the primary piston. The opposite front and rear
brakes are served by the secondary piston.
The master cylinder incorporates the-functions of a standard dual master cylinder. The master
cylinder has a fluid level switch and integral proportioner valves. The proportioner valves are
designed in order to provide a better front to rear braking balance during a heavy brake application.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 7230
Brake Master Cylinder: Testing and Inspection
The following inspections determine all master cylinder malfunctions. If the problem is not found by
using the following tests, refer to Brake System Diagnosis (General Diagnosis) in order to help
isolate the problem.
CAUTION: Brake fluid may Irritate eyes and skin. In case of contact, take the following action:
^ Eye contact-rinse thoroughly with water.
^ Skin contact-wash with soap and water.
^ If ingested-consult a physician immediately.
NOTICE: Avoid spilling brake fluid on any of the vehicle's painted surfaces, wiring, cables or
electrical connectors. Brake fluid will damage paint and electrical connections. If any fluid is spilled
on the vehicle, immediately flush the area with water to minimize the potential for damage.
IMPORTANT:
^ Use only Delco Supreme II Brake Fluid or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid.
^ Do not use power steering or transmission fluid in the brake system.
^ Do not reuse brake fluid accumulated during the brake system bleeding.
^ Always store brake fluid in a closed container. Reseal brake fluid containers immediately after
use.
^ Do not use brake fluid that was left in an open or improperly sealed container. The brake fluid will
absorb moisture or may become contaminated.
1. Inspect for a cracked master cylinder casting. 2. Inspect for brake fluid around the master
cylinder. A leak is present if there is at least one drop of fluid. A damp condition is not abnormal. 3.
Inspect for a binding pedal linkage. 4. If the pedal linkage is correct, disassemble the master
cylinder. Inspect for swollen or elongated primary piston seal(s). 5. If the seals are swollen,
substandard or contaminated brake fluid is the probable cause. If the brake fluid is contaminated,
use the following
procedure: 5.1. Disassemble and clean the serviceable components. 5.2. Replace all of the rubber
and non-serviceable components. 5.3. Flush all of the brake pipes and brake hoses. Refer to
Hydraulic Brake System Flushing.
Any of the following conditions may cause the brake fluid to boil:
^ Improper brake fluid
^ Improper brake fluid may also cause the rubber components to deteriorate.
^ Power steering fluid
^ Transmission fluid
^ Water in the brake fluid
If the master cylinder cap diaphragm is swollen, then rubber parts have deteriorated. Deterioration
may be evident by swollen wheel cylinder boots and caliper boots. If deterioration of the rubber
parts is evident, complete the following steps:
1. Disassemble all serviceable hydraulic components. 2. Wash the components with alcohol. 3. Dry
the parts with non-lubricated compressed air before assembly in order to keep alcohol out of the
system. 4. Replace all rubber parts in the system, including hoses and non-serviceable hydraulic
components. 5. Refill the master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid. 6. Flush the brake system.
Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Flushing. 7. Bleed the brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake
System Bleeding
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS)
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement
(with ABS)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: To help avoid personal injury, due to a retained load on the brake modulator, the Gear
Tension Relief function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the ABS brake
modulator/master cylinder assembly.
1. Use the Scan fool in order to perform the Gear Tension Relief Sequence. 2. Disconnect two
brake solenoid valve electrical connectors (1), (3). 3. Disconnect the brake fluid level indicator
sensor connector (2). 4. Disconnect the ABS brake motor pack 6-way electrical connector (6). 5.
Remove four brake pipes (5). 6. Remove the two nuts (8) attaching the ABS brake
modulator/master cylinder assembly (7) to the vacuum booster. 7. Remove the ABS brake
modulator/master cylinder assembly (7).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the ABS brake modulator/master cylinder assembly (7) into the vehicle.
Install the two nuts (8) attaching the ABS modulator master cylinder assembly (7). ^
Tighten the ABS brake modulator/master cylinder nuts (8) to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install four brake pipes (5) onto the ABS brake modulator/master cylinder assembly (7).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7233
^ Tighten the tube nuts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
3. Connect the ABS brake motor pack 6-way electrical connector (6). 4. Connect the brake fluid
level indicator sensor electrical connector (2). 5. Connect two brake solenoid valve electrical
connectors (1), (3).
Important: Bleed the system. Refer to Bleeding Brake Hydraulic System in Brake Bleeding.
6. Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7234
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Master Cylinder Cover/Caps Replacement (Reservoir
Cap Cleaning)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Clean the master cylinder reservoir cap (1) before removal to avoid dirt entering the reservoir. 2.
Remove the reservoir cap (1). 3. Remove the rubber diaphragm from cap (2). 4. Clean any brake
fluid that exists between the cap and the rubber diaphragm with a dry lint free rag. 5. Inspect the
brake fluid for the proper level. Remove fluid if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the rubber diaphragm (1) into the reservoir cap (2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7235
2. Install the reservoir cap (2) to the reservoir (3).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7236
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Master Cylinder Overhaul
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: The master cylinder reservoir cover and reservoir diaphragm may be inspected
and/or serviced without removing the master cylinder from the vehicle.
1. Remove the master cylinder completely from the vehicle. Refer to Master Cylinder Replacement.
2. Separate the modulator assembly from the master cylinder assembly Refer to Brake
Modulator/Master Cylinder Asm Replacement in Antilock
Brake System Traction Control.
3. Clean the master cylinder reservoir cover. 4. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover (1). 5.
Remove the master cylinder reservoir diaphragm (2). 6. Empty the fluid from the reservoir.
Empty the fluid only if the master cylinder is to be completely removed and overhauled.
7. Inspect the master cylinder cover and the diaphragm for the following conditions. Replace the
parts as necessary:
^ Cuts
^ Cracks
^ Nicks
^ Deformation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7237
8. Remove the fluid level switch (1).
9. Remove the proportioner valve assemblies.
10. Remove the piston retainer (12) while depressing the primary piston. Do not damage the
primary piston (11), the master cylinder bore or the piston
retainer groove (18).
11. Remove the primary piston (11). Apply low pressure non-lubricated compressed air into the
upper outlet port at the blind end of the bore with all
other outlet ports plugged.
12. Remove the secondary piston (9). Apply low pressure non-lubricated compressed air into the
upper outlet port at the blind end of the bore with all
other outlet ports plugged.
13. Remove the secondary piston spring (6) and the spring retainer (7). Apply low pressure
non-lubricated compressed air into the upper outlet port at
the blind end of the bore with all other outlet ports plugged.
14. Remove the secondary seal (10). 15. Remove the primary seal (8). 16. Remove the spring
retainer from the secondary piston (9).
^ Clean all parts in clean denatured alcohol.
^ Dry the parts with non-lubricated compressed air.
^ Do not use an abrasive on the bore.
17. Inspect the master cylinder bore for scoring or corrosion. Replace the master cylinder if
damage is found.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7238
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
1. Lubricate rubber parts with clean brake fluid to ease assembly. 2. Install the lubricated
secondary seal (10) onto the secondary piston (9). 3. Install the lubricated primary seal (8) onto the
primary piston (11). 4. Install the spring retainer (7) onto the secondary piston (9). 5. Install the
lubricated secondary piston spring (6) into the cylinder bore. 6. Install the lubricated secondary
piston assembly (9) into the cylinder bore. 7. Install the lubricated primary piston (11) into the
cylinder bore. 8. Install the piston retainer (12) while depressing the primary piston. 9. Install the
proportioner valve assemblies (15-19). Refer to Proportioning Valve Replacement
10. Install the fluid level switch. 11. Install the master cylinder reservoir diaphragm (2) into the
reservoir cover (1). 12. Install the master cylinder reservoir diaphragm and the reservoir cover into
the master cylinder reservoir. 13. Install the master cylinder. Refer to Master Cylinder Overhaul.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7239
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Master Cylinder Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the battery.
CAUTION: Before removing or installing any electrical unit or when a tool or equipment could easily
come in contact with "live" exposed electrical terminals, disconnect the negative battery cable to
help prevent personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or components. Unless instructed
otherwise, the ignition switch must be in the "OFF" or "LOCK" position.
2. Remove the air box. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement. 3. Perform the gear tension
release procedure. Refer to Antilock Brake System (ABS) and Enhanced Traction System (ETS).
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fluid level switch (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7240
5. Disconnect the electrical connectors from both of the ABS solenoids (1,2).
6. Remove the motor pack electrical connector (1).
7. Disconnect the brake pipe tube nuts (1) from the master cylinder and the modulator assembly
(2). 8. Plug the open brake pipes (1 ) in order to prevent brake fluid loss and contamination.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7241
9. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (3).
10. Remove the master cylinder (3) from the booster (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Install the master cylinder (3) to the booster assembly (2).
^ Tighten the master cylinder and the modulator assembly mounting nuts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7242
2. Install the brake pipe tube nuts (1) to the master cylinder and the modulator assembly (2).
^ Tighten the brake pipe tube nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
3. Connect the electrical connector to the fluid level switch (1).
4. Connect the electrical connectors to both solenoids (1,2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7243
5. Connect the motor pack electrical connectors (1).
6. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with clean brake fluid. 7. Bleed the hydraulic system.
Refer to Brake Bleeding.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7244
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair
Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: To help avoid personal injury, due to a retained load on the brake modulator, the Gear
Tension Relief function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the ABS brake
modulator/master cylinder assembly.
1. Use the Scan fool in order to perform the Gear Tension Relief Sequence. 2. Disconnect two
brake solenoid valve electrical connectors (1), (3). 3. Disconnect the brake fluid level indicator
sensor connector (2). 4. Disconnect the ABS brake motor pack 6-way electrical connector (6). 5.
Remove four brake pipes (5). 6. Remove the two nuts (8) attaching the ABS brake
modulator/master cylinder assembly (7) to the vacuum booster. 7. Remove the ABS brake
modulator/master cylinder assembly (7).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the ABS brake modulator/master cylinder assembly (7) into the vehicle.
Install the two nuts (8) attaching the ABS modulator master cylinder assembly (7). ^
Tighten the ABS brake modulator/master cylinder nuts (8) to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7245
2. Install four brake pipes (5) onto the ABS brake modulator/master cylinder assembly (7).
^ Tighten the tube nuts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
3. Connect the ABS brake motor pack 6-way electrical connector (6). 4. Connect the brake fluid
level indicator sensor electrical connector (2). 5. Connect two brake solenoid valve electrical
connectors (1), (3).
Important: Bleed the system. Refer to Bleeding Brake Hydraulic System in Brake Bleeding.
6. Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Master Cylinder Cover/Caps Replacement (Reservoir Cap Cleaning)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Clean the master cylinder reservoir cap (1) before removal to avoid dirt entering the reservoir. 2.
Remove the reservoir cap (1). 3. Remove the rubber diaphragm from cap (2). 4. Clean any brake
fluid that exists between the cap and the rubber diaphragm with a dry lint free rag. 5. Inspect the
brake fluid for the proper level. Remove fluid if necessary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7246
1. Install the rubber diaphragm (1) into the reservoir cap (2). 2. Install the reservoir cap (2) to the
reservoir (3).
Master Cylinder Overhaul
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: The master cylinder reservoir cover and reservoir diaphragm may be inspected
and/or serviced without removing the master cylinder from the vehicle.
1. Remove the master cylinder completely from the vehicle. Refer to Master Cylinder Replacement.
2. Separate the modulator assembly from the master cylinder assembly Refer to Brake
Modulator/Master Cylinder Asm Replacement in Antilock
Brake System Traction Control.
3. Clean the master cylinder reservoir cover.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7247
4. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover (1). 5. Remove the master cylinder reservoir
diaphragm (2). 6. Empty the fluid from the reservoir.
Empty the fluid only if the master cylinder is to be completely removed and overhauled.
7. Inspect the master cylinder cover and the diaphragm for the following conditions. Replace the
parts as necessary:
^ Cuts
^ Cracks
^ Nicks
^ Deformation
8. Remove the fluid level switch (1).
9. Remove the proportioner valve assemblies.
10. Remove the piston retainer (12) while depressing the primary piston. Do not damage the
primary piston (11), the master cylinder bore or the piston
retainer groove (18).
11. Remove the primary piston (11). Apply low pressure non-lubricated compressed air into the
upper outlet port at the blind end of the bore with all
other outlet ports plugged.
12. Remove the secondary piston (9). Apply low pressure non-lubricated compressed air into the
upper outlet port at the blind end of the bore with all
other outlet ports plugged.
13. Remove the secondary piston spring (6) and the spring retainer (7). Apply low pressure
non-lubricated compressed air into the upper outlet port at
the blind end of the bore with all other outlet ports plugged.
14. Remove the secondary seal (10). 15. Remove the primary seal (8).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7248
16. Remove the spring retainer from the secondary piston (9).
^ Clean all parts in clean denatured alcohol.
^ Dry the parts with non-lubricated compressed air.
^ Do not use an abrasive on the bore.
17. Inspect the master cylinder bore for scoring or corrosion. Replace the master cylinder if
damage is found.
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
1. Lubricate rubber parts with clean brake fluid to ease assembly. 2. Install the lubricated
secondary seal (10) onto the secondary piston (9). 3. Install the lubricated primary seal (8) onto the
primary piston (11). 4. Install the spring retainer (7) onto the secondary piston (9). 5. Install the
lubricated secondary piston spring (6) into the cylinder bore. 6. Install the lubricated secondary
piston assembly (9) into the cylinder bore. 7. Install the lubricated primary piston (11) into the
cylinder bore. 8. Install the piston retainer (12) while depressing the primary piston. 9. Install the
proportioner valve assemblies (15-19). Refer to Proportioning Valve Replacement
10. Install the fluid level switch. 11. Install the master cylinder reservoir diaphragm (2) into the
reservoir cover (1). 12. Install the master cylinder reservoir diaphragm and the reservoir cover into
the master cylinder reservoir. 13. Install the master cylinder. Refer to Master Cylinder Overhaul.
Master Cylinder Replacement
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7249
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the battery.
CAUTION: Before removing or installing any electrical unit or when a tool or equipment could easily
come in contact with "live" exposed electrical terminals, disconnect the negative battery cable to
help prevent personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or components. Unless instructed
otherwise, the ignition switch must be in the "OFF" or "LOCK" position.
2. Remove the air box. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement. 3. Perform the gear tension
release procedure. Refer to Antilock Brake System (ABS) and Enhanced Traction System (ETS).
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fluid level switch (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7250
5. Disconnect the electrical connectors from both of the ABS solenoids (1,2).
6. Remove the motor pack electrical connector (1).
7. Disconnect the brake pipe tube nuts (1) from the master cylinder and the modulator assembly
(2). 8. Plug the open brake pipes (1 ) in order to prevent brake fluid loss and contamination.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7251
9. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (3).
10. Remove the master cylinder (3) from the booster (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Install the master cylinder (3) to the booster assembly (2).
^ Tighten the master cylinder and the modulator assembly mounting nuts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7252
2. Install the brake pipe tube nuts (1) to the master cylinder and the modulator assembly (2).
^ Tighten the brake pipe tube nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
3. Connect the electrical connector to the fluid level switch (1).
4. Connect the electrical connectors to both solenoids (1,2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7253
5. Connect the motor pack electrical connectors (1).
6. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with clean brake fluid. 7. Bleed the hydraulic system.
Refer to Brake Bleeding.
Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling
NOTICE: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Do not use any fluid from a
container which is wet with water. Do not use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. Improper brake fluid,
mineral oil or water in the fluid may cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components to
deteriorate. Keep all fluid containers capped to prevent contamination.
^ A properly filled master cylinder reservoir ensures adequate reserve, and prevents air and
moisture from entering the hydraulic system.
^ Do not overfill the master cylinder reservoir. Heat that is absorbed from the brakes and the
engine will cause the master cylinder reservoir to expand.
^ Do not add fluid if the brake hydraulic system is not leaking.
^ The master cylinder reservoir is a part of the master cylinder assembly.
^ The master cylinder reservoir is located under the hood on the driver's side of the vehicle.
^ Fill reservoir using Delco Supreme No. II Hydraulic Brake Fluid or the equivalent, DOT-3 motor
vehicle brake fluid.
1. Thoroughly clean the master cylinder reservoir cover before removal in order to avoid getting dirt
into the reservoir.
2. Remove the cover and the diaphragm.
3. Add the fluid as required in order to bring the level to 20-26 mm (0.78-1.0 in) below the filler neck
inside the reservoir.
Master Cylinder Reservoir Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the master cylinder. Refer to Master Cylinder Replacement.
Notice: Do not clamp on master cylinder body. Doing so may damage the master cylinder.
2. Clamp the flange of the master cylinder body in a vise (5).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7254
3. Drive out the spring pins (2) using a ,/e inch punch (4). Do not damage the reservoir or the
cylinder body when driving out the spring pins. 4. Remove the master cylinder reservoir (1). Pull the
master cylinder reservoir straight up and away from the master cylinder body. Remove the
reservoir from the body.
5. Remove the O-rings from the grooves on the master cylinder reservoir (3). Discard the O-rings.
6. Clean the reservoir (3) with clean denatured alcohol. 7. Dry the reservoir (3) with non-lubricated
compressed air. 8. Inspect the master cylinder reservoir (3) for cracks or deformation. Replace the
reservoir (3) if damage is evident.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7255
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Lubricate the new O-rings (4) with clean brake fluid. 2. Lubricate the reservoir flanges with clean
brake fluid. 3. Install the new O-rings (4) into the grooves on the master cylinder reservoir (3).
Ensure that the O-rings (4) are properly seated.
4. Install the master cylinder reservoir (3) to the master cylinder body (2). Press straight down by
hand into the master cylinder body (2).
5. Install the spring pins (2) using a 1/8 inch punch (4).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Modulator/Master Cylinder ASM Replacement (with ABS) > Page
7256
Do not damage the reservoir (1) or the master cylinder body (3).
6. Install the master cylinder. Refer to Master Cylinder Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Wheel Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Bulletin No.: 03-05-24-001A
Date: March 21, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Service Information Regarding Rear Brake Drum Wheel Cylinder Inspections
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2005 and Prior Saturn Vehicles
with Rear Drum Brakes
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised add model years and include all GM vehicles. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 03-05-24-001 (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin provides information on proper inspection of rear drum brake wheel cylinders.
Important:
It is not recommended that dust boots be removed during inspection processes as dirt and debris
could contaminate the wheel cylinder bore causing premature wear of the wheel cylinder. In
addition, most bores should look damp and some lubricant may drip out from under the boot as a
result of lubricant being present.
All rear drum brake wheel cylinders are assembled with a lubricant to aid in assembly, provide an
anti-corrosion coating to the cylinder bore, and lubricate internal rubber components. As a result of
this lubrication process, it is not uncommon for some amount of lubricant to accumulate at the ends
of the cylinder under the dust boot.
Over time, the lubricant may work its way to the outside of the boot and cause an area of the boot
to look damp. Evidence of a damp area on the boot does not indicate a leak in the cylinder.
However, if there is excessive wetness (i.e. drips) coming from the boot area of the wheel cylinder,
it could indicate a brake hydraulic fluid leak requiring wheel cylinder replacement. (Refer to the
Wheel Cylinder Replacement procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7261
Wheel Cylinder: Specifications
Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Screw 62 in.lb
Wheel Cylinder to Backing Plate 15 ft.lb
Inlet Tube Nut 17 ft.lb
Wheel Cylinder Bore Diameter 0.689 in
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Cylinder Replacement
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Wheel Cylinder Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding brake linings, by
cleaning brake parts with a dry brush or with compressed air. Many earlier models or aftermarket
brake parts may contain asbestos fibers which can become airborne if dust is created during
servicing. Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers may cause serious bodily harm. A water
dampened cloth or water based solution should be used to remove any dust on brake parts.
Equipment Is commercially available to perform this washing function. These wet methods will
prevent fibers from becoming airborne.
2. Clean any dirt or foreign material around the wheel cylinder assembly inlet and pilot. 3. Remove
the inlet tube nut and line. Plug the opening in the line to prevent fluid loss and contamination. 4.
Remove the brake drum. Refer to Brake Drum Replacement. 5. Remove the hub and bearing
assembly. Refer to Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Replacement. 6. Pull the backing plate (1) away
from the axle flange. Do not let the backing plate hang from the parking brake cable as damage
may occur. Refer
to Drum Brake Backing Plate Replacement.
7. Remove the wheel cylinder bolts using a #6 Torch socket. 8. Remove the wheel cylinder (14).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Cylinder Replacement > Page 7264
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Install the wheel cylinder bolts (8) using a #6 Torx socket.
^ Tighten the wheel cylinder bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the backing plate (11) to the axle flange. 3. Install the hub and bearing assembly. Refer to
Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Replacement. 4. Install the brake drum. Refer to Brake Drum
Replacement. 5. Install the inlet tube line and nut.
^ Tighten the inlet tube nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding brake linings, by
cleaning brake parts with a dry brush or with compressed air. Many earlier models or aftermarket
brake parts may contain asbestos fibers which can become airborne if dust is created during
servicing. Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers may cause serious bodily harm. A water
dampened cloth or water based solution should be used to remove any dust on brake parts.
Equipment Is commercially available to perform this washing function. These wet methods will
prevent fibers from becoming airborne.
6. Bleed the wheel cylinder and then the complete brake system. Refer to Brake Bleeding.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Cylinder Replacement > Page 7265
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Wheel Cylinder Overhaul
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
1. Remove the wheel cylinder from the vehicle. Refer to Wheel Cylinder Replacement.
2. Remove the wheel cylinder boots (4). 3. Remove the wheel cylinder pistons (3) and seals (2). 4.
Remove the wheel cylinder spring assembly (5). 5. Remove the wheel cylinder bleeder valve (6). 6.
Inspect the cylinder bore (1) and pistons (3) for scoring, nicks, corrosion and wear. Use a crocus
cloth in order to polish out light corrosion.
Replace the wheel cylinder assembly if the bore will not clean up using the crocus cloth.
7. Clean all the parts in clean, denatured alcohol. 8. Dry the parts with unlubricated, compressed
air.
CAUTION: When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding brake linings, by
cleaning brake parts with a dry brush or with compressed air. Many earlier models or aftermarket
brake parts may contain asbestos fibers which can become airborne If dust is created during
servicing. Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers may cause serious bodily harm. A water
dampened cloth or water based solution should be used to remove any dust on brake parts.
Equipment Is commercially available to perform this washing function.
These wet methods will prevent fibers from becoming airborne.
Notice: Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. Shop cloths and clean containers should be used
to prevent spillage of brake fluid.
9. Lubricate the new seals (2) with clean brake fluid.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Cylinder Replacement > Page 7266
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Install the bleeder valve (6).
^ Tighten the bleeder valve to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.).
2. Install the spring assembly (5). 3. Install the seals (2), pistons (3) and boots (4). 4. Install the
wheel cylinder to the vehicle. Refer to Wheel Cylinder Replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Adjustments
Parking Brake Cable: Adjustments
1. Fully apply and release the hand brake 4-6 times in order to self adjust. 2. The parking brake is
self adjusting. However if the parking brake tension is in question, refer to Hydraulic Park Brake
Diagnostic in Parking Brake
System Testing and Inspection.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Park Brake Cable Replacement (Front)
Parking Brake Cable: Service and Repair Park Brake Cable Replacement (Front)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking. 2. Pull and hold the cable
towards the rear of the car in order to create slack in the cable. 3. Bend the tang (2) on the
connector (1) in order to allow cable removal. 4. Disconnect the cable (3) from the connector (1).
5. Fold over the retaining clip. 6. Disconnect the cable (3) from the equalizer. 7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Remove the console. If you are repairing a Pontiac, also remove the shifter boot.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Park Brake Cable Replacement (Front) > Page 7273
9. Move the lever to the OFF position.
10. Remove the cable conduit end fitting (2) from the lever assembly (1).
11. Pull the cable (3) until the notch on the ratchet (1) is visible through the cover plate opening (4).
12. Push the pawl spring downward toward the notch in the ratchet. 13. Release the cable (3)
slowly in order to allow the notch to catch the leg of the spring (5). 14. Remove the front parking
brake cable button (2) from the reel assembly.
15. Remove the left rocker panel/door sill plate. 16. Remove the grommet and retainer from the
floor pan. 17. Remove the cable from the clip on #2 bar, under the carpet. 18. Remove the front
cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Park Brake Cable Replacement (Front) > Page 7274
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the cable through the floor pan, from the interior to the exterior. 2. Install the cable conduit
fitting (2) to the lever assembly (1). 3. Install the front parking brake cable button to the reel
assembly. 4. Install the cable into the #2 bar clip under the carpet.
5. Install the console. If you are repairing a Pontiac, also install the shifter boot.
6. Install the left rocker panel door sill plate. 7. Raise the vehicle. 8. Fold over the bracket to the
body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Park Brake Cable Replacement (Front) > Page 7275
9. Install the cable (3) to the equalizer assembly.
10. Install the cable to the connector (1). 11. Bend the tang (2) on the connector (1) in order to
retain the cable. 12. Lower the vehicle.
NOTICE: Parking brake adjustment is not necessary. This is a self adjusting system and damage
may result from attempting to adjust or modify this system in any way. It may be necessary to
adjust the rear brakes to obtain the proper tension in the system. Refer to Brake Adjustment,
Leading Trailing Drum Brake Assembly.
13. Fully apply and release the hand brake 4-6 times in order to activate the self adjust system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Park Brake Cable Replacement (Front) > Page 7276
Parking Brake Cable: Service and Repair Park Brake Cable Replacement (Rear)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the console. If you are repairing a Pontiac, also remove the shifter boot. 2. Move the
lever to the OFF position.
3. Remove the cable conduit fitting (2) from the handle assembly (1).
4. Pull the cable (3) until the notch on the ratchet (1) is visible through the cover plate opening (4).
5. Push the pawl spring downward toward the notch in the ratchet. 6. Release the cable (3) slowly
to allow the notch (1) in order to catch the leg of the spring (5). 7. Raise and suitably support the
vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Park Brake Cable Replacement (Front) > Page 7277
8. Bend the tang (2) on the connector (1) to allow cable removal. 9. Pull and hold the cable towards
the rear of the car in order to create a slack in the cable.
10. On the right rear, remove the cable (3) from the connector (1). On the left rear, remove the
cable from the equalizer. 11. Remove the brake drum. Refer to Brake Drum Replacement. 12.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal. 13. Insert a screwdriver between
the brake shoe and the lower part of the rear park brake lever. 14. Remove the cable eyelet fitting
from the rear park brake lever. 15. Remove the conduit fitting from the backing plate while
depressing the retaining tangs of the conduit fitting.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the conduit fitting into the backing plate. 2. Install the parking brake cable to the parking
brake lever in the drum assembly. 3. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel
Installation. 4. Install the brake drum. Refer to Brake Drum Replacement. 5. Install the conduit
fitting into the axle bracket. 6. Connect the left rear cable to the equalizer. 7. Connect the right rear
cable to the connector. 8. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Park Brake Cable Replacement (Front) > Page 7278
9. Install the console. If you are repairing a Pontiac, also install the shifter boot.
10. Fully apply and release the hand brake 4-6 times in order to self adjust the system.
Notice: Parking brake adjustment is not necessary. This is a self adjusting system and damage
may result from attempting to adjust or modify this system in any way. It may be necessary to
adjust the rear brakes to obtain the proper tension in the system. Refer to Brake Adjustment,
Leading Trailing Drum Brake Assembly.
11. Check the parking brake tension.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Specifications
Parking Brake Lever: Specifications
Parking brake lever mounting nuts
..........................................................................................................................................................
25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7282
Parking Brake Lever: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle. 2. Pull and hold the cable towards the rear of the car in order to
create slack in the cable. 3. Bend the tang (2) on the connector (1) in order to allow cable removal.
4. Disconnect the cable (3) from the connector (1). 5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the console. If you are repairing a Pontiac, also remove the shifter boot. 7. Move the
lever to the OFF position.
8. Remove the cable conduit end fitting (2) from the handle assembly (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7283
9. Pull the cable (3) until the notch on the ratchet (1) is visible through the cover plate opening (4).
10. Push the pawl spring downward toward the notch in the ratchet. 11. Release the cable (3)
slowly to allow the notch (1) to catch the leg of the spring (5). 12. Remove the front parking brake
cable button (2) from the reel assembly. 13. Remove the electrical connector.
14. Remove the nuts (1) securing the lever (2). 15. Remove the lever (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Ensure that the pawl spring (5) is properly engaged. (Pull the cable until the notch on the ratchet
(1) is visible through the cover plate opening (4).
Push the pawl spring (5) downward toward the notch in the ratchet (1). Release the cable slowly to
allow the notch to catch the leg of the spring (5~.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7284
2. Install the front parking brake cable (4) to the lever assembly (2) and secure the cable conduit
fittings into the lever assembly (2).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Install the parking brake lever (2) and attaching nuts (1).
^ Tighten the parking brake lever nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the electrical connector. 5. Raise and support the vehicle.
Lifting an Jacking in General Information.
6. Connect the cable (4) to the connector (2). 7. Lower the vehicle.
Notice: Parking brake adjustment is not necessary. This is a self adjusting system and damage
may result from attempting to adjust or modify this system in any way. It may be necessary to
adjust the rear brakes to obtain the proper tension in the system. Refer to Brake Adjustment,
Leading Trailing Drum Brake Assembly.
8. Fully apply and release the hand brake 4-6 times in order to activate the self adjust system. 9.
Install the console. If you are repairing a Pontiac, also install the shifter boot.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Release Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Parking Brake Release Switch: Locations
At the left center of the console
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Warning Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
Parking Brake Switch Location
Left hand center of console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Warning Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 7292
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Specifications
Vacuum Brake Booster: Specifications
Fastener Tightening Specifications Vacuum Booster Retaining Nuts
.............................................................................................................................................................
27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7297
Over Head Valve
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7298
Vacuum Brake Booster: Description and Operation
IMPORTANT:
^ Do not use lubricated compressed air on the brake parts. Damage to the rubber parts may result.
^ Bleed all or part of the brake system if any hydraulic component is removed or disconnected.
^ The torque values specified are for dry non-lubricated fasteners.
^ Perform service operations on a clean bench, free from all mineral oil materials.
The booster (9) for this vehicle is a tandem suspended unit. In a normal operating mode, with the
service brakes in the released position, the tandem vacuum suspended booster operates with a
vacuum on both sides of the diaphragms. When the brakes are applied, air at the atmospheric
pressure is admitted to one side of each diaphragm in order to provide the power assist. When the
service brake is released, the atmospheric air is shut off from one side of each of the diaphragm.
Air is then drawn from the booster through the vacuum check valve to the vacuum source.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Vacuum Booster Diagnosis (Hard Pedal)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Vacuum Booster Diagnosis (Hard Pedal) > Page 7301
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Vacuum Booster Diagnosis (Hard Pedal) > Page 7302
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 7303
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the battery.
CAUTION: Before removing or installing any electrical unit or when a tool or equipment could easily
come in contact with "live" exposed electrical terminals, disconnect the negative battery cable to
help prevent personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or components. Unless instructed
otherwise, the ignition switch must be in the "OFF" or "LOCK" position.
2. Remove the air box. Refer to Air Cleaner
Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls.
Important: Do not remove or disconnect the master cylinder from the vehicle in order to remove the
vacuum booster. If the master cylinder and the vacuum booster are both being services, remove
the master cylinder first. Refer to Master Cylinder Replacement.
3. Remove the master cylinder attaching nuts 4. Remove the master cylinder (10) from the booster
(9). 5. Move the master cylinder forward just enough in order to clear the studs on the vacuum
booster. This will flex the brake pipes slightly. Do not
bend or distort the brake pipes.
6. Do not lose or dislodge the insulator (3,4) that is between the booster and the front of the dash.
7. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum check valve. Refer to Vacuum Brake Booster
Operation (Hose).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 7304
8. Remove the booster attaching nuts (7).
9. Remove the booster pushrod (2) from the brake pedal.
Tilt the entire vacuum booster slightly in order to work the booster pushrod off of the pedal clevis
pin without putting undue pressure on the pushrod.
10. Remove the booster from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the booster into the vehicle. 2. Install the booster pushrod (2) to the brake pedal.
Tilt the entire vacuum booster slightly in order to work the booster pushrod on to the pedal clevis
pin without putting undue pressure on the pushrod.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 7305
instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Install the booster attaching nuts (7).
^ Tighten the booster to brake pedal attaching nuts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the booster vacuum hose to the vacuum check valve (2).
5. Install the master cylinder (1) to the booster (3). 6. Install the master cylinder attaching nuts (2).
^ Tighten the master cylinder to the booster attaching nuts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster Check Valve >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Vacuum Brake Booster Check Valve: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the vacuum check valve (3).
2. Remove the grommet (1).
3. Remove the boot and the air filter. 4. Remove the front housing seal (2). 5. Inspect the boot, the
front housing seal (2), and the grommet for the following conditions. Replace the components as
necessary:
^ Cuts
^ Nicks
^ Excessive wear
6. Clean the boot with denatured alcohol. Dry the boot with non-lubricated compressed air. 7.
Clean the front housing seal (2) using denatured alcohol.
Dry the front housing seal (2) with non-lubricated compressed air.
8. Clean the grommet using denatured alcohol. Dry the grommet with non-lubricated compressed
air.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster Check Valve >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7309
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Lubricate the inside and the outside diameters of the grommet and the front housing seal using a
thin layer of silicone grease. 2. Install the front housing seal. 3. Install the air filter and the boot. 4.
Install the booster. Refer to Vacuum Brake Booster Replacement. 5. Install the grommet (2). 6.
Install the vacuum check valve (3).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS
Main Relay > Component Information > Locations
LH Center Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246
& C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 7322
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 7323
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Electronic Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Electronic Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page
7329
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Electronic Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page
7330
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7331
Electronic Brake Control Module: Locations
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7332
Component Location Views
Left hand lower I/P
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 7335
Electronic Brake Control Module: Diagrams C2
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (C2) (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 7336
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (C2) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Electronic Brake Control Module
Replacement
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair Electronic Brake Control Module
Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the dash wiring harness connectors from the EBCM. 2. Remove the EBCM from the
bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the EBCM to the bracket. 2. Install the dash wiring harness connectors to the EBCM. 3.
Perform the Diagnostic System Check
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Electronic Brake Control Module
Replacement > Page 7339
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair Electronic Brake Control Relay Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the underhood fuse block cover. 2. Remove the electronic brake control relay from the
underhood fuse block.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the electronic brake control relay into the underhood fuse block. 2. Install the underhood
fuse block cover. 3. Perform the "Diagnostic System Check" in Antilock Brake System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Brake Fluid Level Switch Location
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations Brake Fluid Level Switch Location
Left hand rear of engine compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Brake Fluid Level Switch Location > Page 7345
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations Brake Fluid Level Indicator, ABS
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Brake Fluid Level Switch Location > Page 7346
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7347
Brake Fluid Level Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7348
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fluid level switch (1).
2. Disconnect the fluid level switch using needle nose pliers in order to compress the switch locking
tabs (1) at the inboard side of the master
cylinder.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the fluid level switch into the master cylinder reservoir until the locking tabs (3) snap
into place.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7349
2. Connect the electrical connector to the fluid level switch (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Braking Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
Braking Sensor/Switch: Technical Service Bulletins Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-12
Date: April, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Adjustment of New Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches
Models: 1996-98 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue, Riviera 1996-98 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville
1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1996-98
Oldsmobile Aurora, Eighty Eight, LSS, Regency 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999 Oldsmobile
Alero 1996-98 Pontiac Bonneville 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to advise that new style brake switches were used beginning in the
1996 model year. The two switches control the brake lights, cruise control engage/release, TCC
lock-up/release and the Brake/Transmission Inter-Lock function. The switches are adjusted by
twisting rather than ratcheting. Using the old adjustment method of pulling up on the brake pedal
can break the switch.
A mis-adjusted or damaged switch may cause customer comments such as:
^ Brake lights stay on, draining the battery
^ Cruise control inoperative
^ Higher than normal fuel consumption if TCC cannot engage
^ Brake drag
^ Cruise control takes excess pedal travel to release
The adjustment procedure in the Service Manual should be followed.
Procedure
1. Insert the stop lamp switch into the retainer until the switch bottoms out against the brake pedal,
and the switch actuator is fully depressed.
2. Turn the brake switch in the retainer clockwise until the travel stop has been reached. At this
point it will be locked.
Important:
If the switch is not fully locked into position, a clicking noise may result.
3. The brake switch plunger should extend outward 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm (0.02 in. to 0.06 in.) if
adjusted correctly.
4. If the distance the plunger extends is too great, the brake switch must be turned
counter-clockwise about 45° and set to the correct distance before locking it in place by turning it
clockwise until the travel stop is reached.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Parking Brake Release Switch > Component Information > Locations
Parking Brake Release Switch: Locations
At the left center of the console
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Parking Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
Parking Brake Switch Location
Left hand center of console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Parking Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 7361
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Traction Control Switch > Component Information > Locations
Traction Control Switch: Locations
Component Location Views
At the center console on the gear selector
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Traction Control Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7365
Enhanced Traction Control System Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Wheel Speed Sensor: Specifications
Front Wheel Speed Sensor Retaining Bolt 107 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Wheel Speed Sensor
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Wheel Speed Sensor
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Wheel Speed Sensor > Page 7371
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Wheel Speed Sensor > Page 7372
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF
LF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 7375
RF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 7376
LR Wheel Speed Sensor
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 7377
RR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front)
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting And Jacking. 2.
Disconnect the front wheel speed sensor electrical connector. 3. Remove the retaining bolt. 4.
Remove the front wheel speed sensor. If the sensor will not slide out of the knuckle, remove the
brake rotor and use a blunt punch or equivalent
tool to push the sensor from the back side of the knuckle.
IMPORTANT: If the sensor locating pin breaks off and remains in the knuckle during removal,
proceed as follows:
1. Remove the brake rotor and remove broken pin using a blunt punch. 2. Clean the hole using
sand paper wrapped around a screwdriver or other suitable tool. Never attempt to enlarge the hole.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the front wheel speed sensor to the steering knuckle. 2. Install the retaining bolt.
^ Tighten the Torx screws to 12 Nm (107 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Connect the front wheel speed sensor electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Perform the
Diagnostic System Check
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front) > Page
7380
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Rear)
IMPORTANT: The rear wheel speed sensors and rings are integral with the hub and bearing
assemblies.
If a speed sensor or a ring needs replacement, replace the entire hub and bearing assembly. Refer
to Rear Suspension in Suspension.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front) > Page
7381
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Jumper Harness Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting And Jacking. 2.
Remove the connector from the front wheel speed sensor. 3. Remove the harness attaching clips
(2) from the control arm (3) and the splash shield (1). 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Remove the harness
attaching clips from the strut tower. 6. Cut the wheel speed sensor wiring circuits within the main
engine harness. 7. Strip the insulation on the engine harness leads and the new wheel speed
sensor harness leads.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Splice the sleeve provided in the jumper harness kit over each engine harness lead. 2. Install the
new wheel speed sensor harness leads to the engine harness leads and crimp the connections.
Make sure the wire colors match. 3. Heat shrink the tube lightly to seal the connection. 4. Install the
harness attaching clip to the strut tower. 5. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting
And Jacking. 6. Install the harness attaching clips (2) to the control arm (3) and the splash shield
(1). 7. Install the connector to the front wheel speed sensor. 8. Lower the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle
Lifting And Jacking. 9. Perform the Diagnostic System Check
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (Front) > Page
7382
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Speed Sensor Jumper Harness Replacement
(Rear Axle)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking. 2.
Disconnect the two rear wheel speed sensor electrical connectors (3) from the rear wheel bearing
and speed sensor assemblies (2). 3. Disconnect the rear axle harness electrical connector from the
body to ABS and fuel sender connector. 4. Remove the rear axle harness retainers (1). 5. Remove
the rear axle harness from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the rear axle harness to the vehicle. 2. Install the rear axle harness retainers (1). 3.
Connect the rear axle harness electrical connector to the body to ABS and fuel sender connector.
4. Connect the two rear wheel speed sensor electrical connectors (3) to the rear wheel bearing and
speed sensor assemblies (2). 5. Lower the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting And Jacking. 6. Perform
the Diagnostic System Check.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 7388
Clutch Pedal Position Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised
Replacement Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised
Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 02 - Steering
Bulletin No.: 01-02-35-010
Date: November, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Lock Cylinder Replacement
Models: 1995-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure in the Steering
Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The following information was omitted from the Service Manual:
If you replace the ignition lock cylinder, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the system
enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle. During
the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes. The instrument
cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle. Ensure that
the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the ignition switch
before the indicator stops flashing, ensure that you repeat the long tamper cycle from the
beginning.
Important:
Due to component variability, the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system must have the learn
procedure performed regardless, even if the vehicle starts on the first ignition cycle after a VTD
repair.
All codes in the theft deterrent module must be cleared for a relearn.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Specifications
Neutral Safety Switch: Specifications
Neutral Start Switch .............................................................................................................................
...........................................................4 N.m (35 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7399
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7400
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7401
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7402
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7403
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7404
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7405
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7406
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7407
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7408
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7423
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7424
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7425
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7426
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7427
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7428
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7429
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Negative, Battery Cable > System
Information > Specifications
Negative: Specifications
Negative Battery Cable Terminal Nut ..................................................................................................
.........................................................16 N.m (12 lb ft) Negative Battery Cable to Tray Bolt ................
.............................................................................................................................................35 N.m
(26 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Negative, Battery Cable > System
Information > Specifications > Page 7435
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Positive, Battery Cable > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Battery Cable, Positive: > 83-64-16 > Jun > 98 > Battery Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
Positive: Customer Interest Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-16
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Weak or Discharged Battery, Slow Starting, GEN or MIL Lamp On, Various Driveability
Symptoms (Repair B+ Stud and/or Wiring on Starter)
Models: 1997-98 Buick Skylark 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Achieva,
Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs
LN2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners may report the battery is weak or discharged; the starting motor may turn slowly; the
generator is not charging and/or the generator Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may be on,
possibly intermittent. Driveability symptoms may also be experienced.
Cause
If following steps 1, 2 or 3 of strategy based diagnostics did not reveal the cause, the generator
output and battery positive cable terminal at the starting motor (CKT 1 - VIN T and M; CKT 2 - VIN
4) may be loose, causing a high resistance in the battery positive circuit from the generator to the
battery.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the starting motor B+ stud, wire, ring terminals and nut. Clean each mating
surface and replace damaged parts. Tighten positive battery B+ cable to starter solenoid nut to 12
N.m (106 lb in.). Refer to the "Starting Motor Replacement" portion in the Engine Electrical Section
of the Service Manual.
Recharge and load test the battery if required. Refer to "Battery Charging" in the Engine Electrical
Section of the Service Manual.
Important:
The generator and battery are not damaged and should not require replacement.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6480 Wiring and/or Use published
Connector, labor operation
Starter - Repair time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Positive, Battery Cable > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery Cable, Positive: > 83-64-16 > Jun > 98
> Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
Positive: All Technical Service Bulletins Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-16
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Weak or Discharged Battery, Slow Starting, GEN or MIL Lamp On, Various Driveability
Symptoms (Repair B+ Stud and/or Wiring on Starter)
Models: 1997-98 Buick Skylark 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Achieva,
Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs
LN2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners may report the battery is weak or discharged; the starting motor may turn slowly; the
generator is not charging and/or the generator Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may be on,
possibly intermittent. Driveability symptoms may also be experienced.
Cause
If following steps 1, 2 or 3 of strategy based diagnostics did not reveal the cause, the generator
output and battery positive cable terminal at the starting motor (CKT 1 - VIN T and M; CKT 2 - VIN
4) may be loose, causing a high resistance in the battery positive circuit from the generator to the
battery.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the starting motor B+ stud, wire, ring terminals and nut. Clean each mating
surface and replace damaged parts. Tighten positive battery B+ cable to starter solenoid nut to 12
N.m (106 lb in.). Refer to the "Starting Motor Replacement" portion in the Engine Electrical Section
of the Service Manual.
Recharge and load test the battery if required. Refer to "Battery Charging" in the Engine Electrical
Section of the Service Manual.
Important:
The generator and battery are not damaged and should not require replacement.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6480 Wiring and/or Use published
Connector, labor operation
Starter - Repair time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Positive, Battery Cable > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7449
Positive: Specifications
Positive Battery Cable Terminal Nut ....................................................................................................
........................................................20 N.m (15 lb ft) Positive Battery Cable to Starter Solenoid Nut
..........................................................................................................................................12 N.m (106
lb in)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Positive, Battery Cable > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7450
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Warranty - Generator Replacement
Alternator: Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Generator Replacement
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-03-011
Date: October, 1999
Subject: CS-144 Generator Replacement
Models: 1998-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Beginning with the 1998 model year, General Motors stopped releasing internal repair components
for the CS-144 Generator.
GM warranty procedures require the replacement of the CS-144 generator. The generator unit
repair procedures found in the past model Service Manuals should not be used.
Use of non-GM repair parts for warranty repairs is not approved or recommended. Therefore,
warranty labor claims for CS-144 generator rebuilds in the field for 1998 and newer vehicles will not
be accepted.
Service parts which may be available through GM for past model years, which appear to fit, should
not be used. The use of correct parts is essential for proper performance of the generator.
This policy change was instituted by GM to provide the best service and warranty experience for
our customers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Warranty - Generator Replacement > Page 7456
Alternator: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-09
Date: March, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tool J 41450-B, Released for CS Generator Diagnosis
Models: 1988-98 Passenger Cars and Light Trucks with CS-Series Generators
A new CS-Series Generator Tester, J 41450-B, has been sent to all dealers as part of the Essential
Tool Package. This tool will work on all CS-Series generators for past model years. The tool is
shown in Figure 1.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Warranty - Generator Replacement > Page 7457
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Warranty - Generator Replacement > Page 7458
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Warranty - Generator Replacement > Page 7459
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Warranty - Generator Replacement > Page 7460
Generator Not Operating Properly
The charts shown can be used in place of the diagnostic procedures in previous Service Manuals
when this new tool is used. This information will be included in the 1999 Service Manual.
Inspect the following before testing the generator:
^ The battery. Make sure the vehicle battery is in good condition and fully charged. Refer to Battery
Load Test.
^ The built in hydrometer in the battery. The green eye must be showing in the hydrometer.
^ The voltage across the battery terminals with all the loads OFF should be above 12 V. Refer to
Battery Load Test.
^ Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
^ The drive belt for damage or looseness.
^ The wiring harness at the generator. Make sure the harness connector is tight and latched. Make
sure the output terminal of the generator is connected to the vehicle battery (positive) generator
lead.
^ All the charging system related fuses and electrical connections for damage or looseness. Refer
to the starter and charging system schematics.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Alternator: Electrical Specifications
Amperage
2.2L 4-cyl (LN2) and 2.4L 4-cyl (LD9)
Model ...................................................................................................................................................
.....................................................................CS13OD Rated Output ...................................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
..105A
Charging Voltage 13.0-16.0 Volts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 7463
Alternator: Mechanical Specifications
Front Generator Bracket to Block Attaching Bolt
.........................................................................................................................................50 N.m (37
lb ft) Generator (Upper) Front Mounting Bolt
.......................................................................................................................................................30
N.m (22 lb ft) Generator (Lower) Front Mounting Bolt
.......................................................................................................................................................50
N.m (37 lb ft) Rear Generator Bracket to Block Attaching Bolt
.........................................................................................................................................85 N. m (63
lb ft) Rear Generator Bracket to Block Attaching Nut
...........................................................................................................................................43 N.m (32
lb ft) Rear of Generator to Bracket Bolt ...............................................................................................
.................................................................30 N.m (22 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 7464
Alternator: Locations
Component Location Views
On the top RH side of the engine
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Alternator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7467
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7468
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7469
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7470
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7471
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7472
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7473
Alternator: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7474
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7490
Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7491
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7493
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7494
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7496
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7497
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Generator
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Alternator: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution In Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery. 2. Disconnect the generator electrical
connections. 3. Remove the generator drive belt. 4. Remove the through bolts that retain the
generator. 5. Remove the generator.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the generator to the mounting bracket with the bolts and the washers.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. install the generator nuts.
Tighten Tighten the generator nuts (2) to 43 N.m (32 lb ft).
- Tighten the generator bolt (5) to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
- Tighten the generator bolt (1) to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
3. Install the generator drive belt.
CAUTION: Before removing or installing any electrical unit, or when a tool or equipment could
easily come in contact with "live" or "hot all the times" exposed electrical terminals, disconnect the
negative battery cable to help prevent personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or components.
Unless instructed otherwise, the ignition switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position.
4. Connect the generator electrical connections. 5. Connect the negative cable at the battery.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Page 7504
Clutch Pedal Position Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised Replacement Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder - Revised
Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 02 - Steering
Bulletin No.: 01-02-35-010
Date: November, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Lock Cylinder Replacement
Models: 1995-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure in the Steering
Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The following information was omitted from the Service Manual:
If you replace the ignition lock cylinder, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the system
enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle. During
the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes. The instrument
cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle. Ensure that
the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the ignition switch
before the indicator stops flashing, ensure that you repeat the long tamper cycle from the
beginning.
Important:
Due to component variability, the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system must have the learn
procedure performed regardless, even if the vehicle starts on the first ignition cycle after a VTD
repair.
All codes in the theft deterrent module must be cleared for a relearn.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information
Key: Technical Service Bulletins Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-00-89-010
Date: May 27, 2010
Subject: Key Code Security Rules and Information on GM KeyCode Look-Up Application (Canada
Only)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior
Saturn and Saab 2002 and Prior Isuzu
Attention:
This bulletin has been created to address potential issues and questions regarding KeyCode
security. This bulletin should be read by all parties involved in KeyCode activity, including dealer
operator, partner security coordinator, sales, service and parts departments. A copy of this bulletin
should be printed and maintained in the parts department for use as a reference.
Important U.S. dealers should refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 10-00-89-009.
Where Are Key Codes Located?
General Motors provides access to KeyCodes through three sources when a vehicle is delivered to
a dealer. Vehicle KeyCodes are located on the original vehicle invoice to the dealership. There is a
small white bar coded tag sent with most new vehicles that also has the key code printed on it.
Dealerships should make a practice of comparing the tag's keycode numbers to the keycode listed
on the invoice. Any discrepancy should be reported immediately to the GM of Canada Key Code
Inquiry Desk. Remember to remove the key tag prior to showing vehicles to potential customers.
The third source for Key codes is through the GM KeyCode Look-Up feature within the
OEConnection D2DLink application. KeyCode Look-Up currently goes back 17 previous model
years from the current model year.
When a vehicle is received by the dealership, care should be taken to safeguard the original
vehicle invoice and KeyCode tag provided with the vehicle. Potential customers should not have
access to the invoice or this KeyCode tag prior to the sale being completed. After a sale has been
completed, the KeyCode information belongs to the customer and General Motors.
Tip
Only the original invoice contains key code information, a re-printed invoice does not.
GM KeyCode Look-Up Application for GM of Canada Dealers
All dealers should review the General Motors of Canada KeyCode Look-Up Policies and
Procedures (Service Policy & Procedures Manual Section 3.1.6 "Replacement of VIN plates &
keys").
Please note that the KeyCode Access site is restricted. Only authorized users should be using this
application. Please see your Parts Manager for site authorized users. KeyCode Look-Up currently
goes back 17 years from current model year.
Important notes about security:
- Users may not access the system from multiple computers simultaneously.
- Users may only request one KeyCode at a time.
- KeyCode information will only be available on the screen for 2 minutes.
- Each user is personally responsible for maintaining and protecting their password.
- Never share your password with others.
- User Id's are suspended after 6 consecutive failed attempts.
- User Id's are disabled if not used for 90 days.
- Processes must be in place for regular dealership reviews.
- The Parts Manager (or assigned management) must have processes in place for employee
termination or life change events. Upon termination individuals access must be turned off
immediately and access should be re-evaluated upon any position changes within the dealership.
- If you think your password or ID security has been breached, contact Dealer Systems Support at
1-800-265-0573.
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Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 7514
Each user will be required to accept the following agreement each time the KeyCode application is
used.
Key Code User Agreement
- Key codes are proprietary information belonging to General Motors Corporation and to the vehicle
owner.
- Unauthorized access to, or use of, key code information is unlawful and may subject the user to
criminal and civil penalties.
- This information should be treated as strictly confidential and should not be disclosed to anyone
unless authorized.
I will ensure that the following information is obtained prior to releasing any Key Code information:
1. Government issued picture ID (Drivers License) 2. Registration or other proof of ownership.
Registration should have normal markings from the Province that issued the registration and
possibly the
receipt for payment recorded as well.
Important
- GM takes this agreement seriously. Each user must be certain of vehicle ownership before giving
out key codes.
- When the ownership of the vehicle is in doubt, dealership personnel should not provide the
information.
Key code requests should never be received via a fax or the internet and key codes should never
be provided to anyone in this manner. A face to face contact with the owner of the vehicle is the
expected manner that dealers will use to release a key code or as otherwise stipulated in this
bulletin or other materials.
- Key codes should NEVER be sent via a fax or the internet.
- Each Dealership should create a permanent file to document all KeyCode Look Up transactions.
Requests should be filed by VIN and in each folder retain copies of the following:
- Government issued picture ID (Drivers License)
- Registration or other proof of ownership.
- Copy of the paid customer receipt which has the name of the employee who cut and sold the key
to the customer.
- Do not put yourself or your Dealership in the position of needing to "explain" a KeyCode Look Up
to either GM or law enforcement officials.
- Dealership Management has the ability to review all KeyCode Look-Up transactions.
- Dealership KeyCode documentation must be retained for two years.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) for GM of Canada Dealers
How do I request a KeyCode for customer owned vehicle that is not registered?
Scrapped, salvaged or stored vehicles that do not have a current registration should still have the
ownership verified by requesting the vehicle title, current insurance policy and / or current lien
holder information from the customers financing source. If you cannot determine if the customer is
the owner of the vehicle, do not provide the key code information. In these cases, a short
description of the vehicle (scrapped, salvaged, etc.) and the dealership location should be kept on
file. Any clarifying explanation should be entered into the comments field.
How do I document a KeyCode request for a vehicle that is being repossessed?
The repossessor must document ownership of the vehicle by providing a court ordered
repossession order and lien-holder documents prior to providing key code information. Copies of
the repossessors Drivers License and a business card should be retained by the dealership for
documentation.
What do I do if the registration information is locked in the vehicle?
Every effort should be made to obtain complete information for each request. Each Dealership will
have to decide on a case by case basis if enough information is available to verify the customer's
ownership of the vehicle. Other forms of documentation include vehicle title, insurance policy, and
or current lien information from the customers financing source. Dealership Management must be
involved in any request without complete information. If you cannot determine if the customer is the
owner of the vehicle, do not provide the key code information.
Can I get a print out of the information on the screen?
It is important to note that the Key Code Look Up Search Results contain sensitive and/or
proprietary information. For this reason GM recommends against printing it. If the Search Results
must be printed, store and/or dispose of the printed copy properly to minimize the risk of improper
or illegal use.
Who in the dealership has access to the KeyCode application?
Dealership Parts Manager (or assigned management) will determine, and control, who is
authorized to access the KeyCode Look Up application. However, we anticipate that dealership
parts and service management will be the primary users of the application. The KeyCode Look Up
application automatically tracks each user activity session. Information tracked by the system
includes: User name, User ID, all other entered data and the date/time of access.
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Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 7515
What if I input the VIN incorrectly?
If an incorrect VIN is entered into the system (meaning that the system does not recognize the VIN
or that the VIN has been entered incorrectly) the system will return an error message.
If I am an authorized user for the KeyCode application, can I access the application from home?
Yes.
What if I suspect key code misuse?
Your dealership should communicate the proper procedures for requesting key codes. Any
suspicious activity either within the dealership or externally should be reported to Dealer Systems
Support at 1-800-265-0573 or GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
Whose key codes can I access through the system?
At this time the following Canadian vehicle codes are available through the system: Chevrolet,
Cadillac, Buick, Pontiac, GMC, HUMMER (H2 and H3 only), Oldsmobile, Saturn, Saab and Isuzu
(up to 2002 model year) for a maximum of 17 model years.
What should I do if I enter a valid VIN and the system does not produce any key code information?
Occasionally, the KeyCode Look Up application may not produce a key code for a valid VIN. This
may be the result of new vehicle information not yet available. In addition, older vehicle information
may have been sent to an archive status. If you do not receive a key code returned for valid VIN,
you should contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
How do I access KeyCodes if the KeyCode Look-up system is down?
If the KeyCode Look-up system is temporarily unavailable, you can contact the original selling
dealer who may have it on file or contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at
1-905-644-4892. If the customer is dealing with an emergency lock-out situation, you need to have
the customer contact Roadside assistance, OnStar if subscribed, or 911.
What should I do if the KeyCode from the look-up system does not work on the vehicle?
On occasion a dealer may encounter a KeyCode that will not work on the vehicle in question. In
cases where the KeyCode won't work you will need to verify with the manufacturer of the cutting
equipment that the key has been cut correctly. If the key has been cut correctly you may be able to
verify the proper KeyCode was given through the original selling dealer. When unable to verify the
KeyCode through the original selling dealer contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at
1-905-644-4892. If the key has been cut correctly and the code given does not work, the lock
cylinder may have been changed. In these situations following the proper SI document for recoding
a key or replacing the lock cylinder may be necessary.
How long do I have to keep KeyCode Records?
Dealership KeyCode documentation must be retained for two years.
Can I get a KeyCode changed in the Look-Up system?
Yes, KeyCodes can be changed in the Look-Up system if a lock cylinder has been changed.
Contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
What information do I need before I can provide a driver of a company fleet vehicle Keys or
KeyCode information?
The dealership should have a copy of the individual's driver's license, proof of employment and
registration. If there is any question as to the customer's employment by the fleet company, the
dealer should attempt to contact the fleet company for verification. If there is not enough
information to determine ownership and employment, this information should not be provided.
How do I document a request from an Independent Repair facility for a KeyCode or Key?
The independent must provide a copy of their driver's license, proof of employment and signed
copy of the repair order for that repair facility. The repair order must include customer's name,
address, VIN, city, province and license plate number. Copies of this information must be included
in your dealer KeyCode file.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 7516
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Neutral Safety Switch > Component Information
> Specifications
Neutral Safety Switch: Specifications
Neutral Start Switch .............................................................................................................................
...........................................................4 N.m (35 lb in)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Neutral Safety Switch > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7523
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7524
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7525
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7526
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Neutral Safety Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7531
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Specifications
Starter Cable: Specifications
Starter Lead Wire to Starter Solenoid S Terminal Nut
................................................................................................................................2.5 N.m (22 lb in)
Starter Field Lead to Solenoid Attaching Screw
.............................................................................................................................................9 N.m (80
lb in)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Starter Bearing > Component
Information > Specifications
Starter Bearing: Specifications
Commutator End Frame/Field Frame Assembly Through Bolts
.....................................................................................................................9 N.m (80 lb in)
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Specifications
Starter Solenoid: Specifications
Positive Battery Cable to Starter Solenoid Nut
..........................................................................................................................................12 N.m (106
lb in) Solenoid Attaching Screws .........................................................................................................
....................................................................7 N.m (62 lb in) Starter Field Lead to Solenoid Attaching
Screw .............................................................................................................................................9
N.m (80 lb in) Starter Lead Wire to Starter Solenoid S Terminal Nut
................................................................................................................................2.5 N.m (22 lb in)
Starter Motor Solenoid to the S Terminal Nut
................................................................................................................................................3 N.m
(27 lb in)
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Starter Solenoid: Locations
Component Location Views
On the lower front of the engine
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Starter Solenoid: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Starter Solenoid: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7585
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7588
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7589
Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7590
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Auxiliary Power Outlet: > 99-08-45-005 > Nov
> 99 > Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Customer Interest Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Auxiliary Power Outlet: >
99-08-45-005 > Nov > 99 > Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Auxiliary Power Outlet: All Technical Service Bulletins Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Diode: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
Diode: Customer Interest Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-012
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Trip Odometer Resets (Install Diode)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier with Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) fuel option
Condition Some customers may comment that the trip odometer resets to zero.
Cause The CNG vehicle's fuel system electrical components back feed, with 12 volts, Circuit #
1020 for several seconds after key off. This voltage disrupts communication between the PCM and
the I/P cluster and the trip odometer mileage information is lost before it is stored in the memory of
the PCM.
Correction Install the diode assembly; P/N 52369504, using the following procedure:
1. Remove the secondary lock (comb) from the diode assembly and save for reuse.
2. Find the grey 10 way connector (1), located between the radiator and where the radiator hose
attaches to the engine.
3. Separate the grey 10 way connector and remove the comb from the connector top half (the one
with the female terminals).
4. Using the terminal removal tool, GM 12094429, remove the pink wire from cavity C of the grey
10 way connector.
5. Insert the pink wire, removed in the previous step, into cavity B of the diode assembly connector
and reinstall the comb.
6. Insert the pink wire from cavity C of the diode assembly into cavity C of the 10 way connector
and reinstall the comb.
7. Reconnect both halves of the 10 way connector.
8. Attach the diode assembly to the side of the 10 way connector, using a plastic tie strap or tape.
9. Remove the ground stud nut from the top forward transaxle to the engine mounting bolt and slip
the diode assembly wire eyelet over the stud and reinstall the nut.
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> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Diode: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero >
Page 7619
Tighten Tighten to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number Description
52369504 Diode Assembly, Ignition Wiring
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6360 Diode Assembly, Ignition 0.3 hr
Wiring - Install
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Diode: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer Resets to Zero
Diode: All Technical Service Bulletins Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-012
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Trip Odometer Resets (Install Diode)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier with Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) fuel option
Condition Some customers may comment that the trip odometer resets to zero.
Cause The CNG vehicle's fuel system electrical components back feed, with 12 volts, Circuit #
1020 for several seconds after key off. This voltage disrupts communication between the PCM and
the I/P cluster and the trip odometer mileage information is lost before it is stored in the memory of
the PCM.
Correction Install the diode assembly; P/N 52369504, using the following procedure:
1. Remove the secondary lock (comb) from the diode assembly and save for reuse.
2. Find the grey 10 way connector (1), located between the radiator and where the radiator hose
attaches to the engine.
3. Separate the grey 10 way connector and remove the comb from the connector top half (the one
with the female terminals).
4. Using the terminal removal tool, GM 12094429, remove the pink wire from cavity C of the grey
10 way connector.
5. Insert the pink wire, removed in the previous step, into cavity B of the diode assembly connector
and reinstall the comb.
6. Insert the pink wire from cavity C of the diode assembly into cavity C of the 10 way connector
and reinstall the comb.
7. Reconnect both halves of the 10 way connector.
8. Attach the diode assembly to the side of the 10 way connector, using a plastic tie strap or tape.
9. Remove the ground stud nut from the top forward transaxle to the engine mounting bolt and slip
the diode assembly wire eyelet over the stud and reinstall the nut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Diode: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer Resets to Zero > Page 7625
Tighten Tighten to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number Description
52369504 Diode Assembly, Ignition Wiring
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6360 Diode Assembly, Ignition 0.3 hr
Wiring - Install
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Electrical Accessory Panel >
Component Information > Locations
Electrical Accessory Panel: Locations
In the right front of the passenger compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-64-06 > Dec > 97 > Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump
Fuse
Fuse: Customer Interest Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump Fuse
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 73-64-06
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Various Electrical and/or Driveability Concerns (Repair Engine Wiring Harness)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition
Some customers of J cars with the LN2 2200 engine may experience a blown fuel pump fuse, no
start, or driveability concerns.
Cause
Condition may due to two areas of engine wiring damage. The # 4 fuel injector/EGR harness may
contact the RH front corner of the brake master cylinder, resulting in damage to one or more of the
wires in the harness bundle. Also, the main engine wire harness may contact the transaxle cooler
line bracket near the transaxle on vehicles with the 4 speed automatic transmission.
Correction
To repair the # 4 injector/EGR harness, repair the wire using Service Manual procedures and install
a 60 mm (2.5 in.) section of flexible polypropylene or nylon conduit (suitable for high temperature,
underhood usage) over the harness to prevent further damage. Make sure that EGR and injector
wires are both captured by the conduit. Tape the ends of the conduit.
To repair the main engine wire harness chafing against the transaxle oil cooler line bracket, repair
the wire using Service Manual procedures and use a plastic tie strap to secure the main engine
wire harness to the battery cables. This will locate the engine wire harness away from the cooler
line bracket at the transaxle.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N6270 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuse: > 07-08-45-002 > Sep > 07 > Electrical - Aftermarket
Fuse Warning
Fuse: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuse: > 73-64-06 > Dec > 97 > Electrical - Driveability, No
Start, Blown Pump Fuse
Fuse: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump Fuse
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 73-64-06
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Various Electrical and/or Driveability Concerns (Repair Engine Wiring Harness)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition
Some customers of J cars with the LN2 2200 engine may experience a blown fuel pump fuse, no
start, or driveability concerns.
Cause
Condition may due to two areas of engine wiring damage. The # 4 fuel injector/EGR harness may
contact the RH front corner of the brake master cylinder, resulting in damage to one or more of the
wires in the harness bundle. Also, the main engine wire harness may contact the transaxle cooler
line bracket near the transaxle on vehicles with the 4 speed automatic transmission.
Correction
To repair the # 4 injector/EGR harness, repair the wire using Service Manual procedures and install
a 60 mm (2.5 in.) section of flexible polypropylene or nylon conduit (suitable for high temperature,
underhood usage) over the harness to prevent further damage. Make sure that EGR and injector
wires are both captured by the conduit. Tape the ends of the conduit.
To repair the main engine wire harness chafing against the transaxle oil cooler line bracket, repair
the wire using Service Manual procedures and use a plastic tie strap to secure the main engine
wire harness to the battery cables. This will locate the engine wire harness away from the cooler
line bracket at the transaxle.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N6270 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuse: > 07-08-45-002 > Sep > 07 > Electrical - Aftermarket
Fuse Warning
Fuse: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Fuse Block
Fuse: Locations Fuse Block
Component Location Views
At the left end of the tie bar
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Fuse Block > Page 7653
Fuse: Locations Engine Compartment Fuse Relay Center
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Fuse Block > Page 7654
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Fuse Block > Page 7655
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block > Page 7658
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Fuse Block: Electrical Specifications
Front View Of Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 7663
Fuse Block: Mechanical Specifications
Convenience Center to I/P ..................................................................................................................
............................................................6 N.m (53 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > Convenience Center
Fuse Block: Locations Convenience Center
Convenience Center
At the right front of the passenger compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > Convenience Center > Page 7666
Fuse Block: Locations Fuse Block
Component Location Views
At the left end of the tie bar
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > Convenience Center > Page 7667
Fuse Block: Locations Engine Compartment Fuse Relay Center
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1
Fuse Block: Diagrams C1
Convenience Center (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 7670
Convenience Center (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 7671
Convenience Center (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block > Page 7674
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Page 7675
Fuse Block: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Remove the battery ground negative cable. 2. Remove the instrument panel compartment. 3.
Remove the instrument panel access hole cover from the instrument panel. 4. Remove the
electrical connectors. 5. Remove the fuse block from the tie bar (6).
6. Remove the fuse block (5) from the instrument panel.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Page 7676
1. Install the fuse block (5) to the instrument panel.
2. Install the fuse block to the tie bar (2). 3. Install the electrical connectors. 4. Install the right
instrument panel access hole cover to the instrument panel. 5. Install the battery ground negative
cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fusible Link > Component
Information > Locations
Fusible Link: Locations
Lower Front Of Engine
LH center of engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
Grounding Point: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7684
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7685
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7686
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7687
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7688
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7689
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
Relay Box: Locations
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Front View Of Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
> Page 7696
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center (Alt Fuel)
Left Front Corner, Behind Headlamp
1. Ignition Relay 2. Fuel Pump Relay 3. Lock-off Relay 4. Fuel Gauge Relay 5. C023 6. C011 7.
C007 8. C004
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component
Information > Locations
Relay Box: Locations
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component
Information > Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Front View Of Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component
Information > Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center > Page 7702
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center (Alt Fuel)
Left Front Corner, Behind Headlamp
1. Ignition Relay 2. Fuel Pump Relay 3. Lock-off Relay 4. Fuel Gauge Relay 5. C023 6. C011 7.
C007 8. C004
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Technical Service Bulletin # 04002 Date: 040218
Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Product Safety - Ignition Circuit Thermal Events # 04002 - (02/18/2004)
04002 -- Ignition Circuit Thermal Events
1998 Buck Skylark 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva 1998 Pontiac Grand
Am 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
Due to part availability, this recall is being conducted in three phases. Phase 1 will consist of
1998-1999 vehicles, phase 2 will consist of 2000 vehicles; and phase 3 will consist of 2001
vehicles. When sufficient parts are available to notify customers of 2000 and 2001 vehicles, you will
be notified and will receive a new initiation report.
Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier; 1998 model year
Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model year Pontiac
Sunfire vehicles. If the engine fails to start and the driver holds the key in the "start" position for an
extended period, high current flows through the ignition switch, and sometimes produces enough
heat to melt internal switch parts. If the switch is damaged, a fire could occur in the steering
column, even with the engine off and the key removed. The fire could spread to the interior of the
car, which could injure occupants of the car or cause damage to adjoining structures.
Correction
Dealers are to install a relay kit and verify that the vehicle will start with a properly charged battery
in good operating condition (adequate reserve capacity, or cold cranking amps).
Vehicles Involved
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7711
Involved are certain 1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier;
1998 model year Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model
year Pontiac Sunfire vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
Important:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) before
beginning recall repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
For US
For dealers with involved vehicles, a Campaign Initiation Detail Report containing the complete
Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data has been prepared and will be
loaded to the GM DealerWorld, Recall Information website. The customer name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program.
For Canada & IPC
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and
address data of involved vehicles have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers.
The customer name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in
this recall. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved
vehicles currently assigned.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7712
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this report to the follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important
An initial supply of harness kits required to complete this program will be pre-shipped to involved
dealers of record. This pre-shipment is equal to 20% of your involved vehicles and is scheduled to
begin the week of February 6, 2004. Pre-shipped parts will be charged to dealer's open parts
account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO=Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a CSO=Customer Special Order.
Customer Reimbursement - For US
All customer requests for reimbursement for previous repairs for the recall condition will be handled
by the Customer Assistance Center, not by dealers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7713
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7714
A General Motors Product Recall Customer Reimbursement Procedure Form is shown.
Important:
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, section 6.1.12, for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement and the form.
Customer Reimbursement - For Canada
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs for ignition switch replacement and
related wiring repairs due to the condition addressed in this bulletin are to be submitted by June 30,
2005.
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
^ Pre of of ownership at time of repair.
^ Original paid receipt confirming the amount of repair expense(s) that were not reimbursed, a
description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
Important
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual. section 1.6.2 for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement verification.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7715
Claim Information
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
Customer Notification -- For US and Canada
General Motors will notify customers of this recall on their vehicle (see copy of customer letter
shown in this bulletin).
Customer Notification -- For IPC
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7716
outside these areas, dealers should notify customers using the sample letter.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle which is subject to
a recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- All
All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this recall MUST be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin BEFORE customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. A copy of the customer letter is shown in this bulletin. Recall follow-up
cards should not be used for this purpose, since the customer may not as yet have received the
notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the recall correction
has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCT PROGRAM CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT PROCEDURE
If you have paid to have this recall condition corrected prior to receiving this notification, you may
be eligible to receive reimbursement.
Requests for reimbursement may include parts, labor, fees and taxes. Reimbursement may be
limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized General Motors
dealer.
Your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
If your claim is...
^ Approved, you will receive a check from General Motors.
^ Denied, you will receive a letter from General Motors with the reason(s) for the denial, or
^ Incomplete, you will receive a letter from General Motors identifying the documentation that is
needed to complete the claim and offered the opportunity to resubmit the claim when the missing
documentation is available.
Please follow the instructions on the Claim Form to file a claim for reimbursement. If you have
questions about this reimbursement procedure, please call the toll-free telephone number provided
at the bottom of the form. If you need assistance with any other concern, please contact the
appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7717
Disclaimer
Information
1. Open the hood.
2. Check the battery state of health using the J 4200 Midtronics Digital Battery Tester or suitable
equivalent. If the tester displays "Replace Battery", attach a battery charger to the battery while
performing this repair, as the test at the end will require cranking/starting the engine six times in
succession. A low battery state of charge may affect the outcome of the test.
Important:
If the battery fails the test (does not have sufficient reserve capacity or cold cranking amps
required), the customer should be advised that the battery is not functioning properly and should be
replaced. The customer should be informed that battery replacement is not covered under this
recall, and that a replacement battery may be purchased from the dealership or another source.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution
The oil filter, exhaust manifold, and exhaust pipe may be hot. Use care to avoid personal injury.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 3.1L V6 (VIN Code M)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 3.1L V6 Engine (VIN Code M)
1. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
2. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and the shorter hex head bolt (with the washer) included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
3. Locate the short black wire with a ring terminal on one end from the harness kit.
4. Using the longer hex head bolt (without the washer) included in the kit, attach the ring terminal to
the weld nut located on the top surface of the
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7718
upper radiator support bar just to the left (driver side) of the air bag support bracket.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
5. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor. On vehicles with automatic
transmissions, fasten the harness to the cooler lines using the clips on the harness.
6. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
7. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "B" terminal, and removal all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
8. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 16 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 9-15 if the stud and nut are in good condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 9 of this procedure. Steps 9-15 will require the use of one
ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
9. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
10. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
11. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
15. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 9-15 proceed to Step 18. Do not perform Steps 16-17. If you did
NOT perform Steps 9-15, proceed to Step 16.
16. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all wires from the solenoid
terminal.
17. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
20. Install and crimp the other end of the butt connector, which is already installed on the harness
kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires together firmly.
21. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 9-15 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 24.
Do not perform Steps 22-23. If you did NOT perform Steps 9-15 earlier, proceed to Step 22.
22. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
23. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7719
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
25. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
26. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
27. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
28. Lower the vehicle.
29. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
30. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, no further action is required.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for N Car Achieva/Grand
Am/Skylark.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 2.4L(VIN Code T)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7720
6. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
7. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and hex head bolt included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the screw to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
8. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
9. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
10. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor.
11. Remove the top starter bolt.
12. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
13. Remove the oil filter.
14. On 1996 models, remove the two bolts that attach the intake manifold brace to the engine block
and the two bolts that attach it to the intake manifold. Remove that brace.
15. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
16. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
17. Visually inspect the condition of the "S "terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 25 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 18-24 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 18 of this procedure. Steps 18-20 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
18. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
19. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
20. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7721
21. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
24. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you have just completed Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 27. Do NOT perform Steps 25-26. If you
did NOT perform Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 25.
25. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
26. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
27. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire of the vehicle wiring
harness.
28. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
29. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 18-24 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 32.
Do not perform Steps 30-31. If you did NOT perform Step 18-24 earlier, proceed to Step 30.
30. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure that the "S" terminal is snug
to the starter solenoid cap.
31. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next steps, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
32. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
33. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
34. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
35. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7722
36. Remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter motor.
37. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and reinstall it in the
starter.
Tighten
Tighten to 9Nm (80 lb in).
38. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
39. Lower the vehicle.
40. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
41. Raise the vehicle.
42. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
43. On 1996 models, install the intake manifold brace to the engine block and install the two bolts
finger tight. Install the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold.
Tighten
^ Tighten the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold to 24 Nm (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the two bolts to the engine block to 26 Nm (19 lb ft).
44. Install a new oil filter.
45. Lower the vehicle.
46. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
47. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
48. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
49. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7723
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
50. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
51. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
52. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
53. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark
54. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark - Procedure A(All Engine)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the fuse panel trim plate from the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the 15 amp AIR
BAG fuse.
2. Remove the left side dash lower insulation panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow air bag connector located at
the base of the steering column and disconnect the connector.
4. Remove the left side knee bolster trim panel.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt steering column lever.
6. Remove the bezel around the key lock cylinder.
7. Remove the screws that hold the steering column trim in place.
8. Remove both halves of the steering column trim.
9. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7724
10. Remove the two screws (2) holding the ignition switch (3) to the steering column (1). Remove
the ignition switch from the steering column.
Notice
The ignition switch mounting screws and the screws that secure the upper and lower halves of the
steering column covers are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when attaching the
ignition switch and steering column covers, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and check for proper location of the tab. Install
both screws.
Tighten
Tighten both screws to 1.4 Nm (12 lb in).
12. Attach the wiring harness connectors to the ignition switch.
13. Reinstall the upper and lower steering column covers.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
14. Reinstall the knee bolster trim.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
15. Reconnect the yellow airbag connector at the base of the steering column and install the CPA.
16. Reinstall the sound insulator panel.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
17. Reinstall the 15-amp AIR BAG fuse into the fuse box and replace the I/P trim cover.
18. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
1998 - 2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.4L (VIN Code T)
1998 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7725
3. loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7726
13. Using the 10 mm (hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Important
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
15. Remove the top starter bolt.
16. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
17. Remove the oil filter.
18. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
19. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
20. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 28 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 21-27 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 21 of this procedure. Steps 21-27 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
21. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7727
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
24. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
25. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
26. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
27. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 30. Do NOT perform Steps 28-29. If you
did NOT perform Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 28.
28. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
29. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
30. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
31. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
32. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 21-27 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 35.
Do not perform Steps 33-34. If you did NOT perform Steps 21-27 earlier proceed to Step 33.
33. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
34. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
35. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
36. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
37. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
38. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7728
39. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter
motor.
40. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or solenoid
bolt. Install the nut on the stud.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
41. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
42. Lower the vehicle.
43. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
44. Raise the vehicle.
45. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
46. Install a new oil filter.
47. Lower the vehicle.
48. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
49. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7729
50. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
51. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
52. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
53. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
54. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must he used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
55. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
56. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1999-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7730
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
lo~ation marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
13. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7731
Important
The-push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
Important
The terminals located on the starter motor solenoid can be accessed through the opening between
the runners in the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the starter motor to access the
terminals on the 1999-2001 models.
15. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
16. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 24 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 17-23 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 17 of this procedure. Steps 17-23 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
17. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
20. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 17-23 proceed to Step 26. Do NOT perform Steps 24-25. If you
did NOT perform Steps 17-23, proceed to Step 24.
24. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
25. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
26. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness arid the service harness kit.
27. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
28. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7732
Important:
If you performed Steps 17-23 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 31.
Do not perform Steps 29-30. If you did NOT perform Steps 17-23 earlier, proceed to Step 29.
29. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
Important:
Because access to the "S" terminal and the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid is limited, it may not
be possible to use a torque wrench when tightening the terminal attaching nuts in upcoming Steps
30 and 34. If your torque wrench cannot be used because of insufficient clearance, it is acceptable
to tighten the nuts "securely" using regular hand tools.
30. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
31. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
32. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
33. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
34. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
35. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the long bolts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7733
(1) that attach the starter motor end cap to the starter housing.
36. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or on the long
bolt on the starter motor. Install the nut on the stud or install the long bolt in the starter.
Tighten
^ Tighten the nut to 18 Nm (13 lb ft).
^ Tighten the long bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
37. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
38. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
39. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
40. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
41. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
42. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
43. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
44. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.2L (VIN Code 4)
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN Code 4)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7734
1. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
2. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
3. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
4. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
5. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
6. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector, included in the harness
kit, on the purple wire.
7. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
8. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7735
Important:
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
9. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
10. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
11. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 19 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 12-18 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 12 of this procedure. Steps 12-14 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
15. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
16. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
17. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
18. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 12-18, proceed to Step21. DO NOT perform Steps 19-20. If you
did NOT perform Steps 12-18, proceed to Step 19.
19. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
20. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 26.
Do not perform Steps 24-25. If you did NOT perform Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to Step 24.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7736
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Be sure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
25. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
26. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
27. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
28. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
29. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
30. On 1998 models, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid to the starter
motor. On 1999-2001 models, remove one of the long bolts (1) that hold the starter motor end cap
to the housing.
31. On 1998 models, install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and
reinstall the bolt in the starter solenoid. On 1999-2001 models, install the ground ring terminal
(black wire) on the long bolt and reinstall the bolt in the starter.
Tighten
Tighten the starter solenoid bolt or long starter motor bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
32. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7737
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
33. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - Procedure A (All Engine)
1998-2001 J Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the small cover from the left side end of the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the AIR
BAG fuse from the fuse panel.
2. Remove the 7 mm hex head screws that attach the left side insulator panel below the I/P and
reposition the panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow SIR connector(s) that are
clipped to the metal I/P brace near the bottom of the steering column.
4. Disconnect the yellow connectors.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt column lever.
6. Remove the three screws attaching the lower steering column cover and remove the cover.
7. Remove the upper steering column cover.
8. Remove the two TORX(R) head screws (2) that attach the ignition switch (3) to the column (1).
9. Remove the ignition switch from the column and disconnect the electrical connectors from the
switch. Discard the switch.
10. Connect the electrical connectors to the new ignition switch.
Notice:
The ignition switch mounting screws are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when
attaching the ignition switch, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and install the two attaching TORX(R) head
screws.
Tighten
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7738
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
12. Install the upper steering column cover.
13. Install the lower steering column cover and attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
14. If equipped, install a new tilt lever.
15. Connect the two yellow SIR connectors at the base of the steering column.
16. Install the CPA in each connector and clip the connector(s) to the I/P brace.
17. If equipped, position the left side insulator panel to the bottom of the I/P and install the
attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
18. Install the AIR BAG fuse and install the fuse panel cover.
19. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7739
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7740
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set
By Various Control Modules
Wiring Harness: Customer Interest Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set
By Various Control Modules > Page 7746
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set
By Various Control Modules > Page 7747
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set
By Various Control Modules > Page 7748
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10
> Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10
> Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7754
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10
> Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7755
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10
> Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7756
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7761
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7762
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7763
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7764
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7765
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7766
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 >
Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring
Repair
Bulletin No.: 06-08-45-004
Date: May 02, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Instrument Panel (I/P), Body and General Wiring Harness Repair
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Important:
A part restriction has been implemented on all Body and I/P harnesses and is being administered
by the PQC. If a body or I/P harness replacement is required, it can take 12-28 weeks for a
harness to be built and delivered to a dealer. The dealer technician is expected to repair any
harness damage as the first and best choice before replacing a harness.
In an effort to standardize repair practices, General Motors is requiring that all wiring harnesses be
repaired instead of replaced. If there is a question concerning which connector and/or terminal you
are working on, refer to the information in the appropriate Connector End Views in SI. The
Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update of the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal remove information.
Important:
There are some parts in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit (i.e. SIR connector CPAs and heat shrink
tube (used in high heat area pigtail replacement) and some TPAs that are not available from
GMSPO. It is vitally important that each update to the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit be done as soon
as it arrives at the dealer.
Utilize the Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125) to achieve an effective wiring repair. The Terminal Repair
Kit has been an essential tool for all GM Dealers since 1987. Replacement terminals and tools for
this kit are available through SPX/Kent Moore. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-45-001
for more information.
The Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update to the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal removal information.
U.S. Dealers Only - Training courses (including Tech Assists, Emerging Issues, Web, IDL and
Hands-on) are available through the GM Training website. Refer to Resources and then Training
Materials for a complete list of available courses.
Canadian Dealers Only - Refer to the Training section of GM infoNet for a complete list of available
courses and a copy of the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit Instruction Manual.
Wiring repair information is also available in Service Information (SI). The Wiring Repair section
contains information for the following types of wiring repairs:
- Testing for intermittent conditions and poor conditions
- Flat wire repairs
- GMLAN wiring repairs
- High temperature wiring repairs
- Splicing copper wire using splice clips
- Splicing copper wire using splice sleeves
- Splicing twisted or shielded cable
- Splicing inline harness diodes
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 >
Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring Repair > Page 7771
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect
Technical Service Bulletin # 04002 Date: 040218
Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Product Safety - Ignition Circuit Thermal Events # 04002 - (02/18/2004)
04002 -- Ignition Circuit Thermal Events
1998 Buck Skylark 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva 1998 Pontiac Grand
Am 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
Due to part availability, this recall is being conducted in three phases. Phase 1 will consist of
1998-1999 vehicles, phase 2 will consist of 2000 vehicles; and phase 3 will consist of 2001
vehicles. When sufficient parts are available to notify customers of 2000 and 2001 vehicles, you will
be notified and will receive a new initiation report.
Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier; 1998 model year
Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model year Pontiac
Sunfire vehicles. If the engine fails to start and the driver holds the key in the "start" position for an
extended period, high current flows through the ignition switch, and sometimes produces enough
heat to melt internal switch parts. If the switch is damaged, a fire could occur in the steering
column, even with the engine off and the key removed. The fire could spread to the interior of the
car, which could injure occupants of the car or cause damage to adjoining structures.
Correction
Dealers are to install a relay kit and verify that the vehicle will start with a properly charged battery
in good operating condition (adequate reserve capacity, or cold cranking amps).
Vehicles Involved
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7776
Involved are certain 1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier;
1998 model year Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model
year Pontiac Sunfire vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
Important:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) before
beginning recall repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
For US
For dealers with involved vehicles, a Campaign Initiation Detail Report containing the complete
Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data has been prepared and will be
loaded to the GM DealerWorld, Recall Information website. The customer name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program.
For Canada & IPC
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and
address data of involved vehicles have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers.
The customer name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in
this recall. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved
vehicles currently assigned.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7777
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this report to the follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important
An initial supply of harness kits required to complete this program will be pre-shipped to involved
dealers of record. This pre-shipment is equal to 20% of your involved vehicles and is scheduled to
begin the week of February 6, 2004. Pre-shipped parts will be charged to dealer's open parts
account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO=Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a CSO=Customer Special Order.
Customer Reimbursement - For US
All customer requests for reimbursement for previous repairs for the recall condition will be handled
by the Customer Assistance Center, not by dealers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7778
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7779
A General Motors Product Recall Customer Reimbursement Procedure Form is shown.
Important:
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, section 6.1.12, for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement and the form.
Customer Reimbursement - For Canada
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs for ignition switch replacement and
related wiring repairs due to the condition addressed in this bulletin are to be submitted by June 30,
2005.
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
^ Pre of of ownership at time of repair.
^ Original paid receipt confirming the amount of repair expense(s) that were not reimbursed, a
description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
Important
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual. section 1.6.2 for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement verification.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7780
Claim Information
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
Customer Notification -- For US and Canada
General Motors will notify customers of this recall on their vehicle (see copy of customer letter
shown in this bulletin).
Customer Notification -- For IPC
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7781
outside these areas, dealers should notify customers using the sample letter.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle which is subject to
a recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- All
All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this recall MUST be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin BEFORE customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. A copy of the customer letter is shown in this bulletin. Recall follow-up
cards should not be used for this purpose, since the customer may not as yet have received the
notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the recall correction
has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCT PROGRAM CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT PROCEDURE
If you have paid to have this recall condition corrected prior to receiving this notification, you may
be eligible to receive reimbursement.
Requests for reimbursement may include parts, labor, fees and taxes. Reimbursement may be
limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized General Motors
dealer.
Your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
If your claim is...
^ Approved, you will receive a check from General Motors.
^ Denied, you will receive a letter from General Motors with the reason(s) for the denial, or
^ Incomplete, you will receive a letter from General Motors identifying the documentation that is
needed to complete the claim and offered the opportunity to resubmit the claim when the missing
documentation is available.
Please follow the instructions on the Claim Form to file a claim for reimbursement. If you have
questions about this reimbursement procedure, please call the toll-free telephone number provided
at the bottom of the form. If you need assistance with any other concern, please contact the
appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7782
Disclaimer
Information
1. Open the hood.
2. Check the battery state of health using the J 4200 Midtronics Digital Battery Tester or suitable
equivalent. If the tester displays "Replace Battery", attach a battery charger to the battery while
performing this repair, as the test at the end will require cranking/starting the engine six times in
succession. A low battery state of charge may affect the outcome of the test.
Important:
If the battery fails the test (does not have sufficient reserve capacity or cold cranking amps
required), the customer should be advised that the battery is not functioning properly and should be
replaced. The customer should be informed that battery replacement is not covered under this
recall, and that a replacement battery may be purchased from the dealership or another source.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution
The oil filter, exhaust manifold, and exhaust pipe may be hot. Use care to avoid personal injury.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 3.1L V6 (VIN Code M)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 3.1L V6 Engine (VIN Code M)
1. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
2. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and the shorter hex head bolt (with the washer) included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
3. Locate the short black wire with a ring terminal on one end from the harness kit.
4. Using the longer hex head bolt (without the washer) included in the kit, attach the ring terminal to
the weld nut located on the top surface of the
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7783
upper radiator support bar just to the left (driver side) of the air bag support bracket.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
5. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor. On vehicles with automatic
transmissions, fasten the harness to the cooler lines using the clips on the harness.
6. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
7. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "B" terminal, and removal all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
8. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 16 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 9-15 if the stud and nut are in good condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 9 of this procedure. Steps 9-15 will require the use of one
ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
9. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
10. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
11. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
15. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 9-15 proceed to Step 18. Do not perform Steps 16-17. If you did
NOT perform Steps 9-15, proceed to Step 16.
16. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all wires from the solenoid
terminal.
17. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
20. Install and crimp the other end of the butt connector, which is already installed on the harness
kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires together firmly.
21. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 9-15 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 24.
Do not perform Steps 22-23. If you did NOT perform Steps 9-15 earlier, proceed to Step 22.
22. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
23. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7784
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
25. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
26. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
27. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
28. Lower the vehicle.
29. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
30. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, no further action is required.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for N Car Achieva/Grand
Am/Skylark.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 2.4L(VIN Code T)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7785
6. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
7. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and hex head bolt included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the screw to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
8. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
9. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
10. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor.
11. Remove the top starter bolt.
12. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
13. Remove the oil filter.
14. On 1996 models, remove the two bolts that attach the intake manifold brace to the engine block
and the two bolts that attach it to the intake manifold. Remove that brace.
15. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
16. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
17. Visually inspect the condition of the "S "terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 25 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 18-24 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 18 of this procedure. Steps 18-20 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
18. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
19. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
20. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7786
21. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
24. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you have just completed Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 27. Do NOT perform Steps 25-26. If you
did NOT perform Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 25.
25. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
26. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
27. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire of the vehicle wiring
harness.
28. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
29. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 18-24 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 32.
Do not perform Steps 30-31. If you did NOT perform Step 18-24 earlier, proceed to Step 30.
30. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure that the "S" terminal is snug
to the starter solenoid cap.
31. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next steps, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
32. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
33. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
34. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
35. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7787
36. Remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter motor.
37. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and reinstall it in the
starter.
Tighten
Tighten to 9Nm (80 lb in).
38. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
39. Lower the vehicle.
40. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
41. Raise the vehicle.
42. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
43. On 1996 models, install the intake manifold brace to the engine block and install the two bolts
finger tight. Install the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold.
Tighten
^ Tighten the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold to 24 Nm (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the two bolts to the engine block to 26 Nm (19 lb ft).
44. Install a new oil filter.
45. Lower the vehicle.
46. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
47. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
48. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
49. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7788
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
50. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
51. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
52. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
53. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark
54. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark - Procedure A(All Engine)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the fuse panel trim plate from the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the 15 amp AIR
BAG fuse.
2. Remove the left side dash lower insulation panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow air bag connector located at
the base of the steering column and disconnect the connector.
4. Remove the left side knee bolster trim panel.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt steering column lever.
6. Remove the bezel around the key lock cylinder.
7. Remove the screws that hold the steering column trim in place.
8. Remove both halves of the steering column trim.
9. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7789
10. Remove the two screws (2) holding the ignition switch (3) to the steering column (1). Remove
the ignition switch from the steering column.
Notice
The ignition switch mounting screws and the screws that secure the upper and lower halves of the
steering column covers are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when attaching the
ignition switch and steering column covers, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and check for proper location of the tab. Install
both screws.
Tighten
Tighten both screws to 1.4 Nm (12 lb in).
12. Attach the wiring harness connectors to the ignition switch.
13. Reinstall the upper and lower steering column covers.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
14. Reinstall the knee bolster trim.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
15. Reconnect the yellow airbag connector at the base of the steering column and install the CPA.
16. Reinstall the sound insulator panel.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
17. Reinstall the 15-amp AIR BAG fuse into the fuse box and replace the I/P trim cover.
18. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
1998 - 2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.4L (VIN Code T)
1998 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7790
3. loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7791
13. Using the 10 mm (hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Important
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
15. Remove the top starter bolt.
16. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
17. Remove the oil filter.
18. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
19. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
20. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 28 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 21-27 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 21 of this procedure. Steps 21-27 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
21. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7792
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
24. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
25. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
26. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
27. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 30. Do NOT perform Steps 28-29. If you
did NOT perform Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 28.
28. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
29. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
30. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
31. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
32. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 21-27 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 35.
Do not perform Steps 33-34. If you did NOT perform Steps 21-27 earlier proceed to Step 33.
33. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
34. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
35. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
36. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
37. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
38. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7793
39. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter
motor.
40. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or solenoid
bolt. Install the nut on the stud.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
41. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
42. Lower the vehicle.
43. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
44. Raise the vehicle.
45. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
46. Install a new oil filter.
47. Lower the vehicle.
48. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
49. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7794
50. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
51. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
52. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
53. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
54. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must he used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
55. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
56. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1999-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7795
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
lo~ation marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
13. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7796
Important
The-push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
Important
The terminals located on the starter motor solenoid can be accessed through the opening between
the runners in the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the starter motor to access the
terminals on the 1999-2001 models.
15. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
16. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 24 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 17-23 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 17 of this procedure. Steps 17-23 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
17. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
20. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 17-23 proceed to Step 26. Do NOT perform Steps 24-25. If you
did NOT perform Steps 17-23, proceed to Step 24.
24. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
25. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
26. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness arid the service harness kit.
27. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
28. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7797
Important:
If you performed Steps 17-23 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 31.
Do not perform Steps 29-30. If you did NOT perform Steps 17-23 earlier, proceed to Step 29.
29. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
Important:
Because access to the "S" terminal and the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid is limited, it may not
be possible to use a torque wrench when tightening the terminal attaching nuts in upcoming Steps
30 and 34. If your torque wrench cannot be used because of insufficient clearance, it is acceptable
to tighten the nuts "securely" using regular hand tools.
30. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
31. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
32. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
33. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
34. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
35. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the long bolts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7798
(1) that attach the starter motor end cap to the starter housing.
36. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or on the long
bolt on the starter motor. Install the nut on the stud or install the long bolt in the starter.
Tighten
^ Tighten the nut to 18 Nm (13 lb ft).
^ Tighten the long bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
37. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
38. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
39. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
40. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
41. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
42. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
43. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
44. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.2L (VIN Code 4)
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN Code 4)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7799
1. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
2. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
3. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
4. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
5. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
6. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector, included in the harness
kit, on the purple wire.
7. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
8. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7800
Important:
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
9. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
10. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
11. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 19 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 12-18 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 12 of this procedure. Steps 12-14 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
15. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
16. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
17. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
18. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 12-18, proceed to Step21. DO NOT perform Steps 19-20. If you
did NOT perform Steps 12-18, proceed to Step 19.
19. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
20. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 26.
Do not perform Steps 24-25. If you did NOT perform Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to Step 24.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7801
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Be sure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
25. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
26. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
27. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
28. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
29. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
30. On 1998 models, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid to the starter
motor. On 1999-2001 models, remove one of the long bolts (1) that hold the starter motor end cap
to the housing.
31. On 1998 models, install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and
reinstall the bolt in the starter solenoid. On 1999-2001 models, install the ground ring terminal
(black wire) on the long bolt and reinstall the bolt in the starter.
Tighten
Tighten the starter solenoid bolt or long starter motor bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
32. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7802
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
33. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - Procedure A (All Engine)
1998-2001 J Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the small cover from the left side end of the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the AIR
BAG fuse from the fuse panel.
2. Remove the 7 mm hex head screws that attach the left side insulator panel below the I/P and
reposition the panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow SIR connector(s) that are
clipped to the metal I/P brace near the bottom of the steering column.
4. Disconnect the yellow connectors.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt column lever.
6. Remove the three screws attaching the lower steering column cover and remove the cover.
7. Remove the upper steering column cover.
8. Remove the two TORX(R) head screws (2) that attach the ignition switch (3) to the column (1).
9. Remove the ignition switch from the column and disconnect the electrical connectors from the
switch. Discard the switch.
10. Connect the electrical connectors to the new ignition switch.
Notice:
The ignition switch mounting screws are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when
attaching the ignition switch, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and install the two attaching TORX(R) head
screws.
Tighten
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7803
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
12. Install the upper steering column cover.
13. Install the lower steering column cover and attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
14. If equipped, install a new tilt lever.
15. Connect the two yellow SIR connectors at the base of the steering column.
16. Install the CPA in each connector and clip the connector(s) to the I/P brace.
17. If equipped, position the left side insulator panel to the bottom of the I/P and install the
attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
18. Install the AIR BAG fuse and install the fuse panel cover.
19. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7804
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall
- Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7805
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 >
Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 >
Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7811
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 >
Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7812
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 >
Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7813
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7818
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7819
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7820
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7821
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7822
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7823
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 >
Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring
Repair
Bulletin No.: 06-08-45-004
Date: May 02, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Instrument Panel (I/P), Body and General Wiring Harness Repair
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Important:
A part restriction has been implemented on all Body and I/P harnesses and is being administered
by the PQC. If a body or I/P harness replacement is required, it can take 12-28 weeks for a
harness to be built and delivered to a dealer. The dealer technician is expected to repair any
harness damage as the first and best choice before replacing a harness.
In an effort to standardize repair practices, General Motors is requiring that all wiring harnesses be
repaired instead of replaced. If there is a question concerning which connector and/or terminal you
are working on, refer to the information in the appropriate Connector End Views in SI. The
Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update of the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal remove information.
Important:
There are some parts in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit (i.e. SIR connector CPAs and heat shrink
tube (used in high heat area pigtail replacement) and some TPAs that are not available from
GMSPO. It is vitally important that each update to the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit be done as soon
as it arrives at the dealer.
Utilize the Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125) to achieve an effective wiring repair. The Terminal Repair
Kit has been an essential tool for all GM Dealers since 1987. Replacement terminals and tools for
this kit are available through SPX/Kent Moore. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-45-001
for more information.
The Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update to the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal removal information.
U.S. Dealers Only - Training courses (including Tech Assists, Emerging Issues, Web, IDL and
Hands-on) are available through the GM Training website. Refer to Resources and then Training
Materials for a complete list of available courses.
Canadian Dealers Only - Refer to the Training section of GM infoNet for a complete list of available
courses and a copy of the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit Instruction Manual.
Wiring repair information is also available in Service Information (SI). The Wiring Repair section
contains information for the following types of wiring repairs:
- Testing for intermittent conditions and poor conditions
- Flat wire repairs
- GMLAN wiring repairs
- High temperature wiring repairs
- Splicing copper wire using splice clips
- Splicing copper wire using splice sleeves
- Splicing twisted or shielded cable
- Splicing inline harness diodes
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 >
Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring Repair > Page 7828
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7834
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7835
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7836
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7837
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7838
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7839
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 >
Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring Repair > Page 7844
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect
Technical Service Bulletin # 04002 Date: 040218
Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Product Safety - Ignition Circuit Thermal Events # 04002 - (02/18/2004)
04002 -- Ignition Circuit Thermal Events
1998 Buck Skylark 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva 1998 Pontiac Grand
Am 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
Due to part availability, this recall is being conducted in three phases. Phase 1 will consist of
1998-1999 vehicles, phase 2 will consist of 2000 vehicles; and phase 3 will consist of 2001
vehicles. When sufficient parts are available to notify customers of 2000 and 2001 vehicles, you will
be notified and will receive a new initiation report.
Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier; 1998 model year
Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model year Pontiac
Sunfire vehicles. If the engine fails to start and the driver holds the key in the "start" position for an
extended period, high current flows through the ignition switch, and sometimes produces enough
heat to melt internal switch parts. If the switch is damaged, a fire could occur in the steering
column, even with the engine off and the key removed. The fire could spread to the interior of the
car, which could injure occupants of the car or cause damage to adjoining structures.
Correction
Dealers are to install a relay kit and verify that the vehicle will start with a properly charged battery
in good operating condition (adequate reserve capacity, or cold cranking amps).
Vehicles Involved
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7849
Involved are certain 1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier;
1998 model year Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model
year Pontiac Sunfire vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
Important:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) before
beginning recall repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
For US
For dealers with involved vehicles, a Campaign Initiation Detail Report containing the complete
Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data has been prepared and will be
loaded to the GM DealerWorld, Recall Information website. The customer name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program.
For Canada & IPC
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and
address data of involved vehicles have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers.
The customer name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in
this recall. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved
vehicles currently assigned.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7850
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this report to the follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important
An initial supply of harness kits required to complete this program will be pre-shipped to involved
dealers of record. This pre-shipment is equal to 20% of your involved vehicles and is scheduled to
begin the week of February 6, 2004. Pre-shipped parts will be charged to dealer's open parts
account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO=Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a CSO=Customer Special Order.
Customer Reimbursement - For US
All customer requests for reimbursement for previous repairs for the recall condition will be handled
by the Customer Assistance Center, not by dealers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7851
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7852
A General Motors Product Recall Customer Reimbursement Procedure Form is shown.
Important:
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, section 6.1.12, for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement and the form.
Customer Reimbursement - For Canada
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs for ignition switch replacement and
related wiring repairs due to the condition addressed in this bulletin are to be submitted by June 30,
2005.
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
^ Pre of of ownership at time of repair.
^ Original paid receipt confirming the amount of repair expense(s) that were not reimbursed, a
description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
Important
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual. section 1.6.2 for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement verification.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7853
Claim Information
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
Customer Notification -- For US and Canada
General Motors will notify customers of this recall on their vehicle (see copy of customer letter
shown in this bulletin).
Customer Notification -- For IPC
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7854
outside these areas, dealers should notify customers using the sample letter.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle which is subject to
a recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- All
All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this recall MUST be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin BEFORE customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. A copy of the customer letter is shown in this bulletin. Recall follow-up
cards should not be used for this purpose, since the customer may not as yet have received the
notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the recall correction
has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCT PROGRAM CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT PROCEDURE
If you have paid to have this recall condition corrected prior to receiving this notification, you may
be eligible to receive reimbursement.
Requests for reimbursement may include parts, labor, fees and taxes. Reimbursement may be
limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized General Motors
dealer.
Your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
If your claim is...
^ Approved, you will receive a check from General Motors.
^ Denied, you will receive a letter from General Motors with the reason(s) for the denial, or
^ Incomplete, you will receive a letter from General Motors identifying the documentation that is
needed to complete the claim and offered the opportunity to resubmit the claim when the missing
documentation is available.
Please follow the instructions on the Claim Form to file a claim for reimbursement. If you have
questions about this reimbursement procedure, please call the toll-free telephone number provided
at the bottom of the form. If you need assistance with any other concern, please contact the
appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number shown.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7855
Disclaimer
Information
1. Open the hood.
2. Check the battery state of health using the J 4200 Midtronics Digital Battery Tester or suitable
equivalent. If the tester displays "Replace Battery", attach a battery charger to the battery while
performing this repair, as the test at the end will require cranking/starting the engine six times in
succession. A low battery state of charge may affect the outcome of the test.
Important:
If the battery fails the test (does not have sufficient reserve capacity or cold cranking amps
required), the customer should be advised that the battery is not functioning properly and should be
replaced. The customer should be informed that battery replacement is not covered under this
recall, and that a replacement battery may be purchased from the dealership or another source.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution
The oil filter, exhaust manifold, and exhaust pipe may be hot. Use care to avoid personal injury.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 3.1L V6 (VIN Code M)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 3.1L V6 Engine (VIN Code M)
1. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
2. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and the shorter hex head bolt (with the washer) included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
3. Locate the short black wire with a ring terminal on one end from the harness kit.
4. Using the longer hex head bolt (without the washer) included in the kit, attach the ring terminal to
the weld nut located on the top surface of the
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7856
upper radiator support bar just to the left (driver side) of the air bag support bracket.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
5. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor. On vehicles with automatic
transmissions, fasten the harness to the cooler lines using the clips on the harness.
6. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
7. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "B" terminal, and removal all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
8. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 16 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 9-15 if the stud and nut are in good condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 9 of this procedure. Steps 9-15 will require the use of one
ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
9. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
10. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
11. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
15. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 9-15 proceed to Step 18. Do not perform Steps 16-17. If you did
NOT perform Steps 9-15, proceed to Step 16.
16. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all wires from the solenoid
terminal.
17. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
20. Install and crimp the other end of the butt connector, which is already installed on the harness
kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires together firmly.
21. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 9-15 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 24.
Do not perform Steps 22-23. If you did NOT perform Steps 9-15 earlier, proceed to Step 22.
22. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
23. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7857
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
25. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
26. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
27. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
28. Lower the vehicle.
29. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
30. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, no further action is required.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for N Car Achieva/Grand
Am/Skylark.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 2.4L(VIN Code T)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7858
6. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
7. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and hex head bolt included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the screw to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
8. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
9. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
10. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor.
11. Remove the top starter bolt.
12. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
13. Remove the oil filter.
14. On 1996 models, remove the two bolts that attach the intake manifold brace to the engine block
and the two bolts that attach it to the intake manifold. Remove that brace.
15. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
16. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
17. Visually inspect the condition of the "S "terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 25 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 18-24 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 18 of this procedure. Steps 18-20 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
18. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
19. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
20. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7859
21. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
24. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you have just completed Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 27. Do NOT perform Steps 25-26. If you
did NOT perform Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 25.
25. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
26. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
27. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire of the vehicle wiring
harness.
28. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
29. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 18-24 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 32.
Do not perform Steps 30-31. If you did NOT perform Step 18-24 earlier, proceed to Step 30.
30. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure that the "S" terminal is snug
to the starter solenoid cap.
31. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next steps, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
32. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
33. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
34. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
35. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7860
36. Remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter motor.
37. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and reinstall it in the
starter.
Tighten
Tighten to 9Nm (80 lb in).
38. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
39. Lower the vehicle.
40. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
41. Raise the vehicle.
42. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
43. On 1996 models, install the intake manifold brace to the engine block and install the two bolts
finger tight. Install the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold.
Tighten
^ Tighten the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold to 24 Nm (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the two bolts to the engine block to 26 Nm (19 lb ft).
44. Install a new oil filter.
45. Lower the vehicle.
46. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
47. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
48. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
49. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7861
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
50. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
51. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
52. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
53. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark
54. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark - Procedure A(All Engine)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the fuse panel trim plate from the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the 15 amp AIR
BAG fuse.
2. Remove the left side dash lower insulation panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow air bag connector located at
the base of the steering column and disconnect the connector.
4. Remove the left side knee bolster trim panel.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt steering column lever.
6. Remove the bezel around the key lock cylinder.
7. Remove the screws that hold the steering column trim in place.
8. Remove both halves of the steering column trim.
9. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7862
10. Remove the two screws (2) holding the ignition switch (3) to the steering column (1). Remove
the ignition switch from the steering column.
Notice
The ignition switch mounting screws and the screws that secure the upper and lower halves of the
steering column covers are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when attaching the
ignition switch and steering column covers, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and check for proper location of the tab. Install
both screws.
Tighten
Tighten both screws to 1.4 Nm (12 lb in).
12. Attach the wiring harness connectors to the ignition switch.
13. Reinstall the upper and lower steering column covers.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
14. Reinstall the knee bolster trim.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
15. Reconnect the yellow airbag connector at the base of the steering column and install the CPA.
16. Reinstall the sound insulator panel.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
17. Reinstall the 15-amp AIR BAG fuse into the fuse box and replace the I/P trim cover.
18. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
1998 - 2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.4L (VIN Code T)
1998 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7863
3. loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7864
13. Using the 10 mm (hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Important
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
15. Remove the top starter bolt.
16. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
17. Remove the oil filter.
18. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
19. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
20. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 28 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 21-27 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 21 of this procedure. Steps 21-27 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
21. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7865
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
24. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
25. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
26. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
27. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 30. Do NOT perform Steps 28-29. If you
did NOT perform Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 28.
28. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
29. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
30. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
31. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
32. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 21-27 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 35.
Do not perform Steps 33-34. If you did NOT perform Steps 21-27 earlier proceed to Step 33.
33. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
34. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
35. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
36. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
37. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
38. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7866
39. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter
motor.
40. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or solenoid
bolt. Install the nut on the stud.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
41. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
42. Lower the vehicle.
43. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
44. Raise the vehicle.
45. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
46. Install a new oil filter.
47. Lower the vehicle.
48. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
49. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7867
50. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
51. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
52. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
53. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
54. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must he used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
55. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
56. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1999-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7868
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
lo~ation marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
13. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7869
Important
The-push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
Important
The terminals located on the starter motor solenoid can be accessed through the opening between
the runners in the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the starter motor to access the
terminals on the 1999-2001 models.
15. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
16. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 24 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 17-23 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 17 of this procedure. Steps 17-23 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
17. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
20. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 17-23 proceed to Step 26. Do NOT perform Steps 24-25. If you
did NOT perform Steps 17-23, proceed to Step 24.
24. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
25. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
26. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness arid the service harness kit.
27. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
28. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7870
Important:
If you performed Steps 17-23 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 31.
Do not perform Steps 29-30. If you did NOT perform Steps 17-23 earlier, proceed to Step 29.
29. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
Important:
Because access to the "S" terminal and the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid is limited, it may not
be possible to use a torque wrench when tightening the terminal attaching nuts in upcoming Steps
30 and 34. If your torque wrench cannot be used because of insufficient clearance, it is acceptable
to tighten the nuts "securely" using regular hand tools.
30. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
31. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
32. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
33. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
34. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
35. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the long bolts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7871
(1) that attach the starter motor end cap to the starter housing.
36. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or on the long
bolt on the starter motor. Install the nut on the stud or install the long bolt in the starter.
Tighten
^ Tighten the nut to 18 Nm (13 lb ft).
^ Tighten the long bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
37. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
38. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
39. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
40. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
41. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
42. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
43. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
44. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.2L (VIN Code 4)
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN Code 4)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7872
1. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
2. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
3. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
4. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
5. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
6. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector, included in the harness
kit, on the purple wire.
7. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
8. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7873
Important:
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
9. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
10. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
11. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 19 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 12-18 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 12 of this procedure. Steps 12-14 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
15. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
16. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
17. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
18. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 12-18, proceed to Step21. DO NOT perform Steps 19-20. If you
did NOT perform Steps 12-18, proceed to Step 19.
19. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
20. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 26.
Do not perform Steps 24-25. If you did NOT perform Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to Step 24.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7874
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Be sure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
25. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
26. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
27. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
28. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
29. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
30. On 1998 models, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid to the starter
motor. On 1999-2001 models, remove one of the long bolts (1) that hold the starter motor end cap
to the housing.
31. On 1998 models, install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and
reinstall the bolt in the starter solenoid. On 1999-2001 models, install the ground ring terminal
(black wire) on the long bolt and reinstall the bolt in the starter.
Tighten
Tighten the starter solenoid bolt or long starter motor bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
32. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7875
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
33. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - Procedure A (All Engine)
1998-2001 J Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the small cover from the left side end of the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the AIR
BAG fuse from the fuse panel.
2. Remove the 7 mm hex head screws that attach the left side insulator panel below the I/P and
reposition the panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow SIR connector(s) that are
clipped to the metal I/P brace near the bottom of the steering column.
4. Disconnect the yellow connectors.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt column lever.
6. Remove the three screws attaching the lower steering column cover and remove the cover.
7. Remove the upper steering column cover.
8. Remove the two TORX(R) head screws (2) that attach the ignition switch (3) to the column (1).
9. Remove the ignition switch from the column and disconnect the electrical connectors from the
switch. Discard the switch.
10. Connect the electrical connectors to the new ignition switch.
Notice:
The ignition switch mounting screws are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when
attaching the ignition switch, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and install the two attaching TORX(R) head
screws.
Tighten
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7876
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
12. Install the upper steering column cover.
13. Install the lower steering column cover and attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
14. If equipped, install a new tilt lever.
15. Connect the two yellow SIR connectors at the base of the steering column.
16. Install the CPA in each connector and clip the connector(s) to the I/P brace.
17. If equipped, position the left side insulator panel to the bottom of the I/P and install the
attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
18. Install the AIR BAG fuse and install the fuse panel cover.
19. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7877
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 7878
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Auxiliary Power Outlet: > 99-08-45-005 > Nov > 99 > Accessory
Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Customer Interest Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Auxiliary Power Outlet: > 99-08-45-005 > Nov > 99 >
Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Auxiliary Power Outlet: All Technical Service Bulletins Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
Diode: Customer Interest Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-012
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Trip Odometer Resets (Install Diode)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier with Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) fuel option
Condition Some customers may comment that the trip odometer resets to zero.
Cause The CNG vehicle's fuel system electrical components back feed, with 12 volts, Circuit #
1020 for several seconds after key off. This voltage disrupts communication between the PCM and
the I/P cluster and the trip odometer mileage information is lost before it is stored in the memory of
the PCM.
Correction Install the diode assembly; P/N 52369504, using the following procedure:
1. Remove the secondary lock (comb) from the diode assembly and save for reuse.
2. Find the grey 10 way connector (1), located between the radiator and where the radiator hose
attaches to the engine.
3. Separate the grey 10 way connector and remove the comb from the connector top half (the one
with the female terminals).
4. Using the terminal removal tool, GM 12094429, remove the pink wire from cavity C of the grey
10 way connector.
5. Insert the pink wire, removed in the previous step, into cavity B of the diode assembly connector
and reinstall the comb.
6. Insert the pink wire from cavity C of the diode assembly into cavity C of the 10 way connector
and reinstall the comb.
7. Reconnect both halves of the 10 way connector.
8. Attach the diode assembly to the side of the 10 way connector, using a plastic tie strap or tape.
9. Remove the ground stud nut from the top forward transaxle to the engine mounting bolt and slip
the diode assembly wire eyelet over the stud and reinstall the nut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero > Page 7901
Tighten Tighten to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number Description
52369504 Diode Assembly, Ignition Wiring
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6360 Diode Assembly, Ignition 0.3 hr
Wiring - Install
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
Diode: All Technical Service Bulletins Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-012
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Trip Odometer Resets (Install Diode)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier with Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) fuel option
Condition Some customers may comment that the trip odometer resets to zero.
Cause The CNG vehicle's fuel system electrical components back feed, with 12 volts, Circuit #
1020 for several seconds after key off. This voltage disrupts communication between the PCM and
the I/P cluster and the trip odometer mileage information is lost before it is stored in the memory of
the PCM.
Correction Install the diode assembly; P/N 52369504, using the following procedure:
1. Remove the secondary lock (comb) from the diode assembly and save for reuse.
2. Find the grey 10 way connector (1), located between the radiator and where the radiator hose
attaches to the engine.
3. Separate the grey 10 way connector and remove the comb from the connector top half (the one
with the female terminals).
4. Using the terminal removal tool, GM 12094429, remove the pink wire from cavity C of the grey
10 way connector.
5. Insert the pink wire, removed in the previous step, into cavity B of the diode assembly connector
and reinstall the comb.
6. Insert the pink wire from cavity C of the diode assembly into cavity C of the 10 way connector
and reinstall the comb.
7. Reconnect both halves of the 10 way connector.
8. Attach the diode assembly to the side of the 10 way connector, using a plastic tie strap or tape.
9. Remove the ground stud nut from the top forward transaxle to the engine mounting bolt and slip
the diode assembly wire eyelet over the stud and reinstall the nut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero > Page 7907
Tighten Tighten to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number Description
52369504 Diode Assembly, Ignition Wiring
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6360 Diode Assembly, Ignition 0.3 hr
Wiring - Install
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Diode: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Diode: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON >
Page 7913
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Diode: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON >
Page 7914
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Diode: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON >
Page 7920
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Diode: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON >
Page 7921
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Electrical Accessory Panel > Component Information >
Locations
Electrical Accessory Panel: Locations
In the right front of the passenger compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-64-06 > Dec > 97 > Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump Fuse
Fuse: Customer Interest Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump Fuse
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 73-64-06
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Various Electrical and/or Driveability Concerns (Repair Engine Wiring Harness)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition
Some customers of J cars with the LN2 2200 engine may experience a blown fuel pump fuse, no
start, or driveability concerns.
Cause
Condition may due to two areas of engine wiring damage. The # 4 fuel injector/EGR harness may
contact the RH front corner of the brake master cylinder, resulting in damage to one or more of the
wires in the harness bundle. Also, the main engine wire harness may contact the transaxle cooler
line bracket near the transaxle on vehicles with the 4 speed automatic transmission.
Correction
To repair the # 4 injector/EGR harness, repair the wire using Service Manual procedures and install
a 60 mm (2.5 in.) section of flexible polypropylene or nylon conduit (suitable for high temperature,
underhood usage) over the harness to prevent further damage. Make sure that EGR and injector
wires are both captured by the conduit. Tape the ends of the conduit.
To repair the main engine wire harness chafing against the transaxle oil cooler line bracket, repair
the wire using Service Manual procedures and use a plastic tie strap to secure the main engine
wire harness to the battery cables. This will locate the engine wire harness away from the cooler
line bracket at the transaxle.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N6270 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuse: > 07-08-45-002 > Sep > 07 > Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Fuse: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuse: > 73-64-06 > Dec > 97 > Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump
Fuse
Fuse: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Driveability, No Start, Blown Pump Fuse
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 73-64-06
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Various Electrical and/or Driveability Concerns (Repair Engine Wiring Harness)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Condition
Some customers of J cars with the LN2 2200 engine may experience a blown fuel pump fuse, no
start, or driveability concerns.
Cause
Condition may due to two areas of engine wiring damage. The # 4 fuel injector/EGR harness may
contact the RH front corner of the brake master cylinder, resulting in damage to one or more of the
wires in the harness bundle. Also, the main engine wire harness may contact the transaxle cooler
line bracket near the transaxle on vehicles with the 4 speed automatic transmission.
Correction
To repair the # 4 injector/EGR harness, repair the wire using Service Manual procedures and install
a 60 mm (2.5 in.) section of flexible polypropylene or nylon conduit (suitable for high temperature,
underhood usage) over the harness to prevent further damage. Make sure that EGR and injector
wires are both captured by the conduit. Tape the ends of the conduit.
To repair the main engine wire harness chafing against the transaxle oil cooler line bracket, repair
the wire using Service Manual procedures and use a plastic tie strap to secure the main engine
wire harness to the battery cables. This will locate the engine wire harness away from the cooler
line bracket at the transaxle.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N6270 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuse: > 07-08-45-002 > Sep > 07 > Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Fuse: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Fuse Block
Fuse: Locations Fuse Block
Component Location Views
At the left end of the tie bar
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Fuse Block
> Page 7949
Fuse: Locations Engine Compartment Fuse Relay Center
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Fuse Block
> Page 7950
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Fuse Block
> Page 7951
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID >
Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID >
Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block > Page 7954
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Specifications >
Electrical Specifications
Fuse Block: Electrical Specifications
Front View Of Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Specifications >
Electrical Specifications > Page 7959
Fuse Block: Mechanical Specifications
Convenience Center to I/P ..................................................................................................................
............................................................6 N.m (53 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations >
Convenience Center
Fuse Block: Locations Convenience Center
Convenience Center
At the right front of the passenger compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations >
Convenience Center > Page 7962
Fuse Block: Locations Fuse Block
Component Location Views
At the left end of the tie bar
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations >
Convenience Center > Page 7963
Fuse Block: Locations Engine Compartment Fuse Relay Center
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Fuse Block: Diagrams C1
Convenience Center (C1) (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 7966
Convenience Center (C1) (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 7967
Convenience Center (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID
> Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID
> Instrument Panel (I/P) Fuse Block > Page 7970
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID
> Page 7971
Fuse Block: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Remove the battery ground negative cable. 2. Remove the instrument panel compartment. 3.
Remove the instrument panel access hole cover from the instrument panel. 4. Remove the
electrical connectors. 5. Remove the fuse block from the tie bar (6).
6. Remove the fuse block (5) from the instrument panel.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID
> Page 7972
1. Install the fuse block (5) to the instrument panel.
2. Install the fuse block to the tie bar (2). 3. Install the electrical connectors. 4. Install the right
instrument panel access hole cover to the instrument panel. 5. Install the battery ground negative
cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fusible Link > Component Information > Locations
Fusible Link: Locations
Lower Front Of Engine
LH center of engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
Grounding Point: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7980
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7981
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7982
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7983
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7984
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 7985
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
Relay Box: Locations
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Front View Of Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center > Page 7992
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center (Alt Fuel)
Left Front Corner, Behind Headlamp
1. Ignition Relay 2. Fuel Pump Relay 3. Lock-off Relay 4. Fuel Gauge Relay 5. C023 6. C011 7.
C007 8. C004
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
Relay Box: Locations
Component Location Views
LH front of the engine compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID
> Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Front View Of Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Fuse Block Details
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID
> Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center > Page 7998
Relay Box: Application and ID Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center (Alt Fuel)
Left Front Corner, Behind Headlamp
1. Ignition Relay 2. Fuel Pump Relay 3. Lock-off Relay 4. Fuel Gauge Relay 5. C023 6. C011 7.
C007 8. C004
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Technical Service Bulletin # 04002 Date: 040218
Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Product Safety - Ignition Circuit Thermal Events # 04002 - (02/18/2004)
04002 -- Ignition Circuit Thermal Events
1998 Buck Skylark 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva 1998 Pontiac Grand
Am 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
Due to part availability, this recall is being conducted in three phases. Phase 1 will consist of
1998-1999 vehicles, phase 2 will consist of 2000 vehicles; and phase 3 will consist of 2001
vehicles. When sufficient parts are available to notify customers of 2000 and 2001 vehicles, you will
be notified and will receive a new initiation report.
Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier; 1998 model year
Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model year Pontiac
Sunfire vehicles. If the engine fails to start and the driver holds the key in the "start" position for an
extended period, high current flows through the ignition switch, and sometimes produces enough
heat to melt internal switch parts. If the switch is damaged, a fire could occur in the steering
column, even with the engine off and the key removed. The fire could spread to the interior of the
car, which could injure occupants of the car or cause damage to adjoining structures.
Correction
Dealers are to install a relay kit and verify that the vehicle will start with a properly charged battery
in good operating condition (adequate reserve capacity, or cold cranking amps).
Vehicles Involved
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8007
Involved are certain 1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier;
1998 model year Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model
year Pontiac Sunfire vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
Important:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) before
beginning recall repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
For US
For dealers with involved vehicles, a Campaign Initiation Detail Report containing the complete
Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data has been prepared and will be
loaded to the GM DealerWorld, Recall Information website. The customer name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program.
For Canada & IPC
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and
address data of involved vehicles have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers.
The customer name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in
this recall. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved
vehicles currently assigned.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8008
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this report to the follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important
An initial supply of harness kits required to complete this program will be pre-shipped to involved
dealers of record. This pre-shipment is equal to 20% of your involved vehicles and is scheduled to
begin the week of February 6, 2004. Pre-shipped parts will be charged to dealer's open parts
account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO=Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a CSO=Customer Special Order.
Customer Reimbursement - For US
All customer requests for reimbursement for previous repairs for the recall condition will be handled
by the Customer Assistance Center, not by dealers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8009
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8010
A General Motors Product Recall Customer Reimbursement Procedure Form is shown.
Important:
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, section 6.1.12, for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement and the form.
Customer Reimbursement - For Canada
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs for ignition switch replacement and
related wiring repairs due to the condition addressed in this bulletin are to be submitted by June 30,
2005.
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
^ Pre of of ownership at time of repair.
^ Original paid receipt confirming the amount of repair expense(s) that were not reimbursed, a
description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
Important
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual. section 1.6.2 for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement verification.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8011
Claim Information
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
Customer Notification -- For US and Canada
General Motors will notify customers of this recall on their vehicle (see copy of customer letter
shown in this bulletin).
Customer Notification -- For IPC
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8012
outside these areas, dealers should notify customers using the sample letter.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle which is subject to
a recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- All
All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this recall MUST be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin BEFORE customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. A copy of the customer letter is shown in this bulletin. Recall follow-up
cards should not be used for this purpose, since the customer may not as yet have received the
notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the recall correction
has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCT PROGRAM CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT PROCEDURE
If you have paid to have this recall condition corrected prior to receiving this notification, you may
be eligible to receive reimbursement.
Requests for reimbursement may include parts, labor, fees and taxes. Reimbursement may be
limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized General Motors
dealer.
Your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
If your claim is...
^ Approved, you will receive a check from General Motors.
^ Denied, you will receive a letter from General Motors with the reason(s) for the denial, or
^ Incomplete, you will receive a letter from General Motors identifying the documentation that is
needed to complete the claim and offered the opportunity to resubmit the claim when the missing
documentation is available.
Please follow the instructions on the Claim Form to file a claim for reimbursement. If you have
questions about this reimbursement procedure, please call the toll-free telephone number provided
at the bottom of the form. If you need assistance with any other concern, please contact the
appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8013
Disclaimer
Information
1. Open the hood.
2. Check the battery state of health using the J 4200 Midtronics Digital Battery Tester or suitable
equivalent. If the tester displays "Replace Battery", attach a battery charger to the battery while
performing this repair, as the test at the end will require cranking/starting the engine six times in
succession. A low battery state of charge may affect the outcome of the test.
Important:
If the battery fails the test (does not have sufficient reserve capacity or cold cranking amps
required), the customer should be advised that the battery is not functioning properly and should be
replaced. The customer should be informed that battery replacement is not covered under this
recall, and that a replacement battery may be purchased from the dealership or another source.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution
The oil filter, exhaust manifold, and exhaust pipe may be hot. Use care to avoid personal injury.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 3.1L V6 (VIN Code M)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 3.1L V6 Engine (VIN Code M)
1. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
2. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and the shorter hex head bolt (with the washer) included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
3. Locate the short black wire with a ring terminal on one end from the harness kit.
4. Using the longer hex head bolt (without the washer) included in the kit, attach the ring terminal to
the weld nut located on the top surface of the
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8014
upper radiator support bar just to the left (driver side) of the air bag support bracket.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
5. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor. On vehicles with automatic
transmissions, fasten the harness to the cooler lines using the clips on the harness.
6. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
7. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "B" terminal, and removal all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
8. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 16 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 9-15 if the stud and nut are in good condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 9 of this procedure. Steps 9-15 will require the use of one
ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
9. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
10. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
11. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
15. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 9-15 proceed to Step 18. Do not perform Steps 16-17. If you did
NOT perform Steps 9-15, proceed to Step 16.
16. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all wires from the solenoid
terminal.
17. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
20. Install and crimp the other end of the butt connector, which is already installed on the harness
kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires together firmly.
21. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 9-15 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 24.
Do not perform Steps 22-23. If you did NOT perform Steps 9-15 earlier, proceed to Step 22.
22. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
23. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8015
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
25. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
26. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
27. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
28. Lower the vehicle.
29. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
30. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, no further action is required.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for N Car Achieva/Grand
Am/Skylark.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 2.4L(VIN Code T)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8016
6. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
7. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and hex head bolt included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the screw to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
8. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
9. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
10. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor.
11. Remove the top starter bolt.
12. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
13. Remove the oil filter.
14. On 1996 models, remove the two bolts that attach the intake manifold brace to the engine block
and the two bolts that attach it to the intake manifold. Remove that brace.
15. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
16. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
17. Visually inspect the condition of the "S "terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 25 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 18-24 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 18 of this procedure. Steps 18-20 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
18. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
19. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
20. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8017
21. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
24. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you have just completed Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 27. Do NOT perform Steps 25-26. If you
did NOT perform Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 25.
25. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
26. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
27. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire of the vehicle wiring
harness.
28. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
29. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 18-24 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 32.
Do not perform Steps 30-31. If you did NOT perform Step 18-24 earlier, proceed to Step 30.
30. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure that the "S" terminal is snug
to the starter solenoid cap.
31. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next steps, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
32. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
33. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
34. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
35. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8018
36. Remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter motor.
37. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and reinstall it in the
starter.
Tighten
Tighten to 9Nm (80 lb in).
38. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
39. Lower the vehicle.
40. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
41. Raise the vehicle.
42. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
43. On 1996 models, install the intake manifold brace to the engine block and install the two bolts
finger tight. Install the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold.
Tighten
^ Tighten the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold to 24 Nm (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the two bolts to the engine block to 26 Nm (19 lb ft).
44. Install a new oil filter.
45. Lower the vehicle.
46. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
47. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
48. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
49. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8019
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
50. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
51. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
52. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
53. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark
54. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark - Procedure A(All Engine)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the fuse panel trim plate from the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the 15 amp AIR
BAG fuse.
2. Remove the left side dash lower insulation panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow air bag connector located at
the base of the steering column and disconnect the connector.
4. Remove the left side knee bolster trim panel.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt steering column lever.
6. Remove the bezel around the key lock cylinder.
7. Remove the screws that hold the steering column trim in place.
8. Remove both halves of the steering column trim.
9. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8020
10. Remove the two screws (2) holding the ignition switch (3) to the steering column (1). Remove
the ignition switch from the steering column.
Notice
The ignition switch mounting screws and the screws that secure the upper and lower halves of the
steering column covers are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when attaching the
ignition switch and steering column covers, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and check for proper location of the tab. Install
both screws.
Tighten
Tighten both screws to 1.4 Nm (12 lb in).
12. Attach the wiring harness connectors to the ignition switch.
13. Reinstall the upper and lower steering column covers.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
14. Reinstall the knee bolster trim.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
15. Reconnect the yellow airbag connector at the base of the steering column and install the CPA.
16. Reinstall the sound insulator panel.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
17. Reinstall the 15-amp AIR BAG fuse into the fuse box and replace the I/P trim cover.
18. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
1998 - 2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.4L (VIN Code T)
1998 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8021
3. loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8022
13. Using the 10 mm (hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Important
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
15. Remove the top starter bolt.
16. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
17. Remove the oil filter.
18. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
19. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
20. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 28 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 21-27 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 21 of this procedure. Steps 21-27 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
21. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8023
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
24. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
25. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
26. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
27. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 30. Do NOT perform Steps 28-29. If you
did NOT perform Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 28.
28. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
29. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
30. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
31. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
32. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 21-27 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 35.
Do not perform Steps 33-34. If you did NOT perform Steps 21-27 earlier proceed to Step 33.
33. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
34. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
35. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
36. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
37. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
38. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8024
39. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter
motor.
40. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or solenoid
bolt. Install the nut on the stud.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
41. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
42. Lower the vehicle.
43. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
44. Raise the vehicle.
45. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
46. Install a new oil filter.
47. Lower the vehicle.
48. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
49. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8025
50. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
51. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
52. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
53. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
54. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must he used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
55. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
56. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1999-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8026
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
lo~ation marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
13. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8027
Important
The-push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
Important
The terminals located on the starter motor solenoid can be accessed through the opening between
the runners in the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the starter motor to access the
terminals on the 1999-2001 models.
15. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
16. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 24 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 17-23 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 17 of this procedure. Steps 17-23 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
17. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
20. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 17-23 proceed to Step 26. Do NOT perform Steps 24-25. If you
did NOT perform Steps 17-23, proceed to Step 24.
24. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
25. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
26. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness arid the service harness kit.
27. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
28. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8028
Important:
If you performed Steps 17-23 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 31.
Do not perform Steps 29-30. If you did NOT perform Steps 17-23 earlier, proceed to Step 29.
29. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
Important:
Because access to the "S" terminal and the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid is limited, it may not
be possible to use a torque wrench when tightening the terminal attaching nuts in upcoming Steps
30 and 34. If your torque wrench cannot be used because of insufficient clearance, it is acceptable
to tighten the nuts "securely" using regular hand tools.
30. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
31. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
32. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
33. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
34. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
35. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the long bolts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8029
(1) that attach the starter motor end cap to the starter housing.
36. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or on the long
bolt on the starter motor. Install the nut on the stud or install the long bolt in the starter.
Tighten
^ Tighten the nut to 18 Nm (13 lb ft).
^ Tighten the long bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
37. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
38. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
39. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
40. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
41. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
42. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
43. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
44. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.2L (VIN Code 4)
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN Code 4)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8030
1. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
2. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
3. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
4. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
5. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
6. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector, included in the harness
kit, on the purple wire.
7. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
8. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8031
Important:
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
9. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
10. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
11. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 19 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 12-18 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 12 of this procedure. Steps 12-14 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
15. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
16. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
17. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
18. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 12-18, proceed to Step21. DO NOT perform Steps 19-20. If you
did NOT perform Steps 12-18, proceed to Step 19.
19. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
20. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 26.
Do not perform Steps 24-25. If you did NOT perform Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to Step 24.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8032
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Be sure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
25. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
26. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
27. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
28. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
29. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
30. On 1998 models, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid to the starter
motor. On 1999-2001 models, remove one of the long bolts (1) that hold the starter motor end cap
to the housing.
31. On 1998 models, install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and
reinstall the bolt in the starter solenoid. On 1999-2001 models, install the ground ring terminal
(black wire) on the long bolt and reinstall the bolt in the starter.
Tighten
Tighten the starter solenoid bolt or long starter motor bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
32. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8033
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
33. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - Procedure A (All Engine)
1998-2001 J Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the small cover from the left side end of the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the AIR
BAG fuse from the fuse panel.
2. Remove the 7 mm hex head screws that attach the left side insulator panel below the I/P and
reposition the panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow SIR connector(s) that are
clipped to the metal I/P brace near the bottom of the steering column.
4. Disconnect the yellow connectors.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt column lever.
6. Remove the three screws attaching the lower steering column cover and remove the cover.
7. Remove the upper steering column cover.
8. Remove the two TORX(R) head screws (2) that attach the ignition switch (3) to the column (1).
9. Remove the ignition switch from the column and disconnect the electrical connectors from the
switch. Discard the switch.
10. Connect the electrical connectors to the new ignition switch.
Notice:
The ignition switch mounting screws are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when
attaching the ignition switch, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and install the two attaching TORX(R) head
screws.
Tighten
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8034
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
12. Install the upper steering column cover.
13. Install the lower steering column cover and attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
14. If equipped, install a new tilt lever.
15. Connect the two yellow SIR connectors at the base of the steering column.
16. Install the CPA in each connector and clip the connector(s) to the I/P brace.
17. If equipped, position the left side insulator panel to the bottom of the I/P and install the
attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
18. Install the AIR BAG fuse and install the fuse panel cover.
19. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8035
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect > Page 8036
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
Wiring Harness: Customer Interest Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules > Page 8042
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules > Page 8043
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules > Page 8044
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL
ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL
ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8050
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL
ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8051
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL
ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8052
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8057
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8058
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8059
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8060
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8061
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8062
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 > Electrical - Instrument
Panel & General Wiring Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring
Repair
Bulletin No.: 06-08-45-004
Date: May 02, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Instrument Panel (I/P), Body and General Wiring Harness Repair
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Important:
A part restriction has been implemented on all Body and I/P harnesses and is being administered
by the PQC. If a body or I/P harness replacement is required, it can take 12-28 weeks for a
harness to be built and delivered to a dealer. The dealer technician is expected to repair any
harness damage as the first and best choice before replacing a harness.
In an effort to standardize repair practices, General Motors is requiring that all wiring harnesses be
repaired instead of replaced. If there is a question concerning which connector and/or terminal you
are working on, refer to the information in the appropriate Connector End Views in SI. The
Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update of the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal remove information.
Important:
There are some parts in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit (i.e. SIR connector CPAs and heat shrink
tube (used in high heat area pigtail replacement) and some TPAs that are not available from
GMSPO. It is vitally important that each update to the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit be done as soon
as it arrives at the dealer.
Utilize the Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125) to achieve an effective wiring repair. The Terminal Repair
Kit has been an essential tool for all GM Dealers since 1987. Replacement terminals and tools for
this kit are available through SPX/Kent Moore. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-45-001
for more information.
The Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update to the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal removal information.
U.S. Dealers Only - Training courses (including Tech Assists, Emerging Issues, Web, IDL and
Hands-on) are available through the GM Training website. Refer to Resources and then Training
Materials for a complete list of available courses.
Canadian Dealers Only - Refer to the Training section of GM infoNet for a complete list of available
courses and a copy of the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit Instruction Manual.
Wiring repair information is also available in Service Information (SI). The Wiring Repair section
contains information for the following types of wiring repairs:
- Testing for intermittent conditions and poor conditions
- Flat wire repairs
- GMLAN wiring repairs
- High temperature wiring repairs
- Splicing copper wire using splice clips
- Splicing copper wire using splice sleeves
- Splicing twisted or shielded cable
- Splicing inline harness diodes
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 > Electrical - Instrument
Panel & General Wiring Repair > Page 8067
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Technical Service Bulletin # 04002 Date: 040218
Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Product Safety - Ignition Circuit Thermal Events # 04002 - (02/18/2004)
04002 -- Ignition Circuit Thermal Events
1998 Buck Skylark 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva 1998 Pontiac Grand
Am 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
Due to part availability, this recall is being conducted in three phases. Phase 1 will consist of
1998-1999 vehicles, phase 2 will consist of 2000 vehicles; and phase 3 will consist of 2001
vehicles. When sufficient parts are available to notify customers of 2000 and 2001 vehicles, you will
be notified and will receive a new initiation report.
Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier; 1998 model year
Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model year Pontiac
Sunfire vehicles. If the engine fails to start and the driver holds the key in the "start" position for an
extended period, high current flows through the ignition switch, and sometimes produces enough
heat to melt internal switch parts. If the switch is damaged, a fire could occur in the steering
column, even with the engine off and the key removed. The fire could spread to the interior of the
car, which could injure occupants of the car or cause damage to adjoining structures.
Correction
Dealers are to install a relay kit and verify that the vehicle will start with a properly charged battery
in good operating condition (adequate reserve capacity, or cold cranking amps).
Vehicles Involved
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8072
Involved are certain 1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier;
1998 model year Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model
year Pontiac Sunfire vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
Important:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) before
beginning recall repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
For US
For dealers with involved vehicles, a Campaign Initiation Detail Report containing the complete
Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data has been prepared and will be
loaded to the GM DealerWorld, Recall Information website. The customer name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program.
For Canada & IPC
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and
address data of involved vehicles have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers.
The customer name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in
this recall. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved
vehicles currently assigned.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8073
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this report to the follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important
An initial supply of harness kits required to complete this program will be pre-shipped to involved
dealers of record. This pre-shipment is equal to 20% of your involved vehicles and is scheduled to
begin the week of February 6, 2004. Pre-shipped parts will be charged to dealer's open parts
account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO=Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a CSO=Customer Special Order.
Customer Reimbursement - For US
All customer requests for reimbursement for previous repairs for the recall condition will be handled
by the Customer Assistance Center, not by dealers.
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8074
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8075
A General Motors Product Recall Customer Reimbursement Procedure Form is shown.
Important:
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, section 6.1.12, for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement and the form.
Customer Reimbursement - For Canada
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs for ignition switch replacement and
related wiring repairs due to the condition addressed in this bulletin are to be submitted by June 30,
2005.
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
^ Pre of of ownership at time of repair.
^ Original paid receipt confirming the amount of repair expense(s) that were not reimbursed, a
description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
Important
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual. section 1.6.2 for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement verification.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8076
Claim Information
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
Customer Notification -- For US and Canada
General Motors will notify customers of this recall on their vehicle (see copy of customer letter
shown in this bulletin).
Customer Notification -- For IPC
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8077
outside these areas, dealers should notify customers using the sample letter.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle which is subject to
a recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- All
All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this recall MUST be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin BEFORE customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. A copy of the customer letter is shown in this bulletin. Recall follow-up
cards should not be used for this purpose, since the customer may not as yet have received the
notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the recall correction
has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCT PROGRAM CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT PROCEDURE
If you have paid to have this recall condition corrected prior to receiving this notification, you may
be eligible to receive reimbursement.
Requests for reimbursement may include parts, labor, fees and taxes. Reimbursement may be
limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized General Motors
dealer.
Your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
If your claim is...
^ Approved, you will receive a check from General Motors.
^ Denied, you will receive a letter from General Motors with the reason(s) for the denial, or
^ Incomplete, you will receive a letter from General Motors identifying the documentation that is
needed to complete the claim and offered the opportunity to resubmit the claim when the missing
documentation is available.
Please follow the instructions on the Claim Form to file a claim for reimbursement. If you have
questions about this reimbursement procedure, please call the toll-free telephone number provided
at the bottom of the form. If you need assistance with any other concern, please contact the
appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8078
Disclaimer
Information
1. Open the hood.
2. Check the battery state of health using the J 4200 Midtronics Digital Battery Tester or suitable
equivalent. If the tester displays "Replace Battery", attach a battery charger to the battery while
performing this repair, as the test at the end will require cranking/starting the engine six times in
succession. A low battery state of charge may affect the outcome of the test.
Important:
If the battery fails the test (does not have sufficient reserve capacity or cold cranking amps
required), the customer should be advised that the battery is not functioning properly and should be
replaced. The customer should be informed that battery replacement is not covered under this
recall, and that a replacement battery may be purchased from the dealership or another source.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution
The oil filter, exhaust manifold, and exhaust pipe may be hot. Use care to avoid personal injury.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 3.1L V6 (VIN Code M)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 3.1L V6 Engine (VIN Code M)
1. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
2. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and the shorter hex head bolt (with the washer) included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
3. Locate the short black wire with a ring terminal on one end from the harness kit.
4. Using the longer hex head bolt (without the washer) included in the kit, attach the ring terminal to
the weld nut located on the top surface of the
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8079
upper radiator support bar just to the left (driver side) of the air bag support bracket.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
5. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor. On vehicles with automatic
transmissions, fasten the harness to the cooler lines using the clips on the harness.
6. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
7. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "B" terminal, and removal all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
8. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 16 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 9-15 if the stud and nut are in good condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 9 of this procedure. Steps 9-15 will require the use of one
ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
9. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
10. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
11. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
15. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 9-15 proceed to Step 18. Do not perform Steps 16-17. If you did
NOT perform Steps 9-15, proceed to Step 16.
16. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all wires from the solenoid
terminal.
17. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
20. Install and crimp the other end of the butt connector, which is already installed on the harness
kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires together firmly.
21. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 9-15 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 24.
Do not perform Steps 22-23. If you did NOT perform Steps 9-15 earlier, proceed to Step 22.
22. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
23. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8080
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
25. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
26. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
27. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
28. Lower the vehicle.
29. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
30. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, no further action is required.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for N Car Achieva/Grand
Am/Skylark.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 2.4L(VIN Code T)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8081
6. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
7. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and hex head bolt included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the screw to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
8. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
9. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
10. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor.
11. Remove the top starter bolt.
12. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
13. Remove the oil filter.
14. On 1996 models, remove the two bolts that attach the intake manifold brace to the engine block
and the two bolts that attach it to the intake manifold. Remove that brace.
15. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
16. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
17. Visually inspect the condition of the "S "terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 25 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 18-24 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 18 of this procedure. Steps 18-20 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
18. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
19. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
20. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8082
21. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
24. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you have just completed Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 27. Do NOT perform Steps 25-26. If you
did NOT perform Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 25.
25. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
26. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
27. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire of the vehicle wiring
harness.
28. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
29. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 18-24 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 32.
Do not perform Steps 30-31. If you did NOT perform Step 18-24 earlier, proceed to Step 30.
30. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure that the "S" terminal is snug
to the starter solenoid cap.
31. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next steps, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
32. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
33. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
34. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
35. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8083
36. Remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter motor.
37. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and reinstall it in the
starter.
Tighten
Tighten to 9Nm (80 lb in).
38. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
39. Lower the vehicle.
40. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
41. Raise the vehicle.
42. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
43. On 1996 models, install the intake manifold brace to the engine block and install the two bolts
finger tight. Install the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold.
Tighten
^ Tighten the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold to 24 Nm (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the two bolts to the engine block to 26 Nm (19 lb ft).
44. Install a new oil filter.
45. Lower the vehicle.
46. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
47. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
48. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
49. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8084
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
50. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
51. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
52. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
53. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark
54. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark - Procedure A(All Engine)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the fuse panel trim plate from the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the 15 amp AIR
BAG fuse.
2. Remove the left side dash lower insulation panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow air bag connector located at
the base of the steering column and disconnect the connector.
4. Remove the left side knee bolster trim panel.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt steering column lever.
6. Remove the bezel around the key lock cylinder.
7. Remove the screws that hold the steering column trim in place.
8. Remove both halves of the steering column trim.
9. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8085
10. Remove the two screws (2) holding the ignition switch (3) to the steering column (1). Remove
the ignition switch from the steering column.
Notice
The ignition switch mounting screws and the screws that secure the upper and lower halves of the
steering column covers are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when attaching the
ignition switch and steering column covers, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and check for proper location of the tab. Install
both screws.
Tighten
Tighten both screws to 1.4 Nm (12 lb in).
12. Attach the wiring harness connectors to the ignition switch.
13. Reinstall the upper and lower steering column covers.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
14. Reinstall the knee bolster trim.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
15. Reconnect the yellow airbag connector at the base of the steering column and install the CPA.
16. Reinstall the sound insulator panel.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
17. Reinstall the 15-amp AIR BAG fuse into the fuse box and replace the I/P trim cover.
18. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
1998 - 2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.4L (VIN Code T)
1998 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8086
3. loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8087
13. Using the 10 mm (hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Important
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
15. Remove the top starter bolt.
16. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
17. Remove the oil filter.
18. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
19. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
20. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 28 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 21-27 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 21 of this procedure. Steps 21-27 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
21. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8088
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
24. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
25. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
26. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
27. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 30. Do NOT perform Steps 28-29. If you
did NOT perform Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 28.
28. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
29. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
30. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
31. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
32. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 21-27 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 35.
Do not perform Steps 33-34. If you did NOT perform Steps 21-27 earlier proceed to Step 33.
33. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
34. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
35. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
36. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
37. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
38. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8089
39. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter
motor.
40. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or solenoid
bolt. Install the nut on the stud.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
41. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
42. Lower the vehicle.
43. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
44. Raise the vehicle.
45. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
46. Install a new oil filter.
47. Lower the vehicle.
48. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
49. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8090
50. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
51. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
52. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
53. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
54. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must he used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
55. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
56. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1999-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8091
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
lo~ation marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
13. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8092
Important
The-push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
Important
The terminals located on the starter motor solenoid can be accessed through the opening between
the runners in the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the starter motor to access the
terminals on the 1999-2001 models.
15. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
16. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 24 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 17-23 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 17 of this procedure. Steps 17-23 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
17. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
20. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 17-23 proceed to Step 26. Do NOT perform Steps 24-25. If you
did NOT perform Steps 17-23, proceed to Step 24.
24. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
25. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
26. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness arid the service harness kit.
27. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
28. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8093
Important:
If you performed Steps 17-23 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 31.
Do not perform Steps 29-30. If you did NOT perform Steps 17-23 earlier, proceed to Step 29.
29. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
Important:
Because access to the "S" terminal and the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid is limited, it may not
be possible to use a torque wrench when tightening the terminal attaching nuts in upcoming Steps
30 and 34. If your torque wrench cannot be used because of insufficient clearance, it is acceptable
to tighten the nuts "securely" using regular hand tools.
30. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
31. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
32. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
33. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
34. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
35. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the long bolts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8094
(1) that attach the starter motor end cap to the starter housing.
36. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or on the long
bolt on the starter motor. Install the nut on the stud or install the long bolt in the starter.
Tighten
^ Tighten the nut to 18 Nm (13 lb ft).
^ Tighten the long bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
37. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
38. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
39. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
40. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
41. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
42. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
43. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
44. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.2L (VIN Code 4)
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN Code 4)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8095
1. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
2. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
3. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
4. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
5. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
6. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector, included in the harness
kit, on the purple wire.
7. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
8. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8096
Important:
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
9. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
10. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
11. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 19 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 12-18 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 12 of this procedure. Steps 12-14 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
15. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
16. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
17. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
18. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 12-18, proceed to Step21. DO NOT perform Steps 19-20. If you
did NOT perform Steps 12-18, proceed to Step 19.
19. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
20. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 26.
Do not perform Steps 24-25. If you did NOT perform Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to Step 24.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8097
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Be sure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
25. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
26. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
27. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
28. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
29. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
30. On 1998 models, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid to the starter
motor. On 1999-2001 models, remove one of the long bolts (1) that hold the starter motor end cap
to the housing.
31. On 1998 models, install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and
reinstall the bolt in the starter solenoid. On 1999-2001 models, install the ground ring terminal
(black wire) on the long bolt and reinstall the bolt in the starter.
Tighten
Tighten the starter solenoid bolt or long starter motor bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
32. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8098
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
33. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - Procedure A (All Engine)
1998-2001 J Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the small cover from the left side end of the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the AIR
BAG fuse from the fuse panel.
2. Remove the 7 mm hex head screws that attach the left side insulator panel below the I/P and
reposition the panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow SIR connector(s) that are
clipped to the metal I/P brace near the bottom of the steering column.
4. Disconnect the yellow connectors.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt column lever.
6. Remove the three screws attaching the lower steering column cover and remove the cover.
7. Remove the upper steering column cover.
8. Remove the two TORX(R) head screws (2) that attach the ignition switch (3) to the column (1).
9. Remove the ignition switch from the column and disconnect the electrical connectors from the
switch. Discard the switch.
10. Connect the electrical connectors to the new ignition switch.
Notice:
The ignition switch mounting screws are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when
attaching the ignition switch, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and install the two attaching TORX(R) head
screws.
Tighten
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8099
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
12. Install the upper steering column cover.
13. Install the lower steering column cover and attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
14. If equipped, install a new tilt lever.
15. Connect the two yellow SIR connectors at the base of the steering column.
16. Install the CPA in each connector and clip the connector(s) to the I/P brace.
17. If equipped, position the left side insulator panel to the bottom of the I/P and install the
attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
18. Install the AIR BAG fuse and install the fuse panel cover.
19. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8100
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
> Page 8101
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8107
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8108
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8109
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8114
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8115
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8116
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8117
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8118
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8119
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 > Electrical - Instrument Panel
& General Wiring Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring
Repair
Bulletin No.: 06-08-45-004
Date: May 02, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Instrument Panel (I/P), Body and General Wiring Harness Repair
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Important:
A part restriction has been implemented on all Body and I/P harnesses and is being administered
by the PQC. If a body or I/P harness replacement is required, it can take 12-28 weeks for a
harness to be built and delivered to a dealer. The dealer technician is expected to repair any
harness damage as the first and best choice before replacing a harness.
In an effort to standardize repair practices, General Motors is requiring that all wiring harnesses be
repaired instead of replaced. If there is a question concerning which connector and/or terminal you
are working on, refer to the information in the appropriate Connector End Views in SI. The
Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update of the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal remove information.
Important:
There are some parts in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit (i.e. SIR connector CPAs and heat shrink
tube (used in high heat area pigtail replacement) and some TPAs that are not available from
GMSPO. It is vitally important that each update to the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit be done as soon
as it arrives at the dealer.
Utilize the Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125) to achieve an effective wiring repair. The Terminal Repair
Kit has been an essential tool for all GM Dealers since 1987. Replacement terminals and tools for
this kit are available through SPX/Kent Moore. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-45-001
for more information.
The Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update to the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal removal information.
U.S. Dealers Only - Training courses (including Tech Assists, Emerging Issues, Web, IDL and
Hands-on) are available through the GM Training website. Refer to Resources and then Training
Materials for a complete list of available courses.
Canadian Dealers Only - Refer to the Training section of GM infoNet for a complete list of available
courses and a copy of the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit Instruction Manual.
Wiring repair information is also available in Service Information (SI). The Wiring Repair section
contains information for the following types of wiring repairs:
- Testing for intermittent conditions and poor conditions
- Flat wire repairs
- GMLAN wiring repairs
- High temperature wiring repairs
- Splicing copper wire using splice clips
- Splicing copper wire using splice sleeves
- Splicing twisted or shielded cable
- Splicing inline harness diodes
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 > Electrical - Instrument Panel
& General Wiring Repair > Page 8124
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8130
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8131
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8132
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8133
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8134
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8135
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 > Electrical - Instrument Panel
& General Wiring Repair > Page 8140
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Technical Service Bulletin # 04002 Date: 040218
Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect
Product Safety - Ignition Circuit Thermal Events # 04002 - (02/18/2004)
04002 -- Ignition Circuit Thermal Events
1998 Buck Skylark 1998-2001 Chevrolet Cavalier 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva 1998 Pontiac Grand
Am 1998-2001 Pontiac Sunfire
Due to part availability, this recall is being conducted in three phases. Phase 1 will consist of
1998-1999 vehicles, phase 2 will consist of 2000 vehicles; and phase 3 will consist of 2001
vehicles. When sufficient parts are available to notify customers of 2000 and 2001 vehicles, you will
be notified and will receive a new initiation report.
Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier; 1998 model year
Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model year Pontiac
Sunfire vehicles. If the engine fails to start and the driver holds the key in the "start" position for an
extended period, high current flows through the ignition switch, and sometimes produces enough
heat to melt internal switch parts. If the switch is damaged, a fire could occur in the steering
column, even with the engine off and the key removed. The fire could spread to the interior of the
car, which could injure occupants of the car or cause damage to adjoining structures.
Correction
Dealers are to install a relay kit and verify that the vehicle will start with a properly charged battery
in good operating condition (adequate reserve capacity, or cold cranking amps).
Vehicles Involved
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Page 8145
Involved are certain 1998 model year Buick Skylark; 1998-2001 model year Chevrolet Cavalier;
1998 model year Oldsmobile Achieva; 1998 model year Pontiac Grand Am; and 1998-2001 model
year Pontiac Sunfire vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
Important:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) before
beginning recall repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
For US
For dealers with involved vehicles, a Campaign Initiation Detail Report containing the complete
Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data has been prepared and will be
loaded to the GM DealerWorld, Recall Information website. The customer name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program.
For Canada & IPC
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and
address data of involved vehicles have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers.
The customer name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in
this recall. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved
vehicles currently assigned.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8146
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of
this report to the follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important
An initial supply of harness kits required to complete this program will be pre-shipped to involved
dealers of record. This pre-shipment is equal to 20% of your involved vehicles and is scheduled to
begin the week of February 6, 2004. Pre-shipped parts will be charged to dealer's open parts
account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO=Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a CSO=Customer Special Order.
Customer Reimbursement - For US
All customer requests for reimbursement for previous repairs for the recall condition will be handled
by the Customer Assistance Center, not by dealers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Page 8147
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8148
A General Motors Product Recall Customer Reimbursement Procedure Form is shown.
Important:
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, section 6.1.12, for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement and the form.
Customer Reimbursement - For Canada
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs for ignition switch replacement and
related wiring repairs due to the condition addressed in this bulletin are to be submitted by June 30,
2005.
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
^ Pre of of ownership at time of repair.
^ Original paid receipt confirming the amount of repair expense(s) that were not reimbursed, a
description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
Important
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual. section 1.6.2 for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement verification.
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Page 8149
Claim Information
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
Customer Notification -- For US and Canada
General Motors will notify customers of this recall on their vehicle (see copy of customer letter
shown in this bulletin).
Customer Notification -- For IPC
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners
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Page 8150
outside these areas, dealers should notify customers using the sample letter.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle which is subject to
a recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- All
All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this recall MUST be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin BEFORE customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. A copy of the customer letter is shown in this bulletin. Recall follow-up
cards should not be used for this purpose, since the customer may not as yet have received the
notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the recall correction
has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCT PROGRAM CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT PROCEDURE
If you have paid to have this recall condition corrected prior to receiving this notification, you may
be eligible to receive reimbursement.
Requests for reimbursement may include parts, labor, fees and taxes. Reimbursement may be
limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized General Motors
dealer.
Your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
If your claim is...
^ Approved, you will receive a check from General Motors.
^ Denied, you will receive a letter from General Motors with the reason(s) for the denial, or
^ Incomplete, you will receive a letter from General Motors identifying the documentation that is
needed to complete the claim and offered the opportunity to resubmit the claim when the missing
documentation is available.
Please follow the instructions on the Claim Form to file a claim for reimbursement. If you have
questions about this reimbursement procedure, please call the toll-free telephone number provided
at the bottom of the form. If you need assistance with any other concern, please contact the
appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8151
Disclaimer
Information
1. Open the hood.
2. Check the battery state of health using the J 4200 Midtronics Digital Battery Tester or suitable
equivalent. If the tester displays "Replace Battery", attach a battery charger to the battery while
performing this repair, as the test at the end will require cranking/starting the engine six times in
succession. A low battery state of charge may affect the outcome of the test.
Important:
If the battery fails the test (does not have sufficient reserve capacity or cold cranking amps
required), the customer should be advised that the battery is not functioning properly and should be
replaced. The customer should be informed that battery replacement is not covered under this
recall, and that a replacement battery may be purchased from the dealership or another source.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution
The oil filter, exhaust manifold, and exhaust pipe may be hot. Use care to avoid personal injury.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 3.1L V6 (VIN Code M)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 3.1L V6 Engine (VIN Code M)
1. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
2. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and the shorter hex head bolt (with the washer) included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
3. Locate the short black wire with a ring terminal on one end from the harness kit.
4. Using the longer hex head bolt (without the washer) included in the kit, attach the ring terminal to
the weld nut located on the top surface of the
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Page 8152
upper radiator support bar just to the left (driver side) of the air bag support bracket.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
5. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor. On vehicles with automatic
transmissions, fasten the harness to the cooler lines using the clips on the harness.
6. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
7. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "B" terminal, and removal all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
8. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 16 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 9-15 if the stud and nut are in good condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 9 of this procedure. Steps 9-15 will require the use of one
ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
9. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
10. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
11. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
15. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 9-15 proceed to Step 18. Do not perform Steps 16-17. If you did
NOT perform Steps 9-15, proceed to Step 16.
16. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all wires from the solenoid
terminal.
17. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
20. Install and crimp the other end of the butt connector, which is already installed on the harness
kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires together firmly.
21. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 9-15 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 24.
Do not perform Steps 22-23. If you did NOT perform Steps 9-15 earlier, proceed to Step 22.
22. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
23. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important
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Page 8153
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
25. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
26. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
27. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
28. Lower the vehicle.
29. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
30. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, no further action is required.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for N Car Achieva/Grand
Am/Skylark.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark with 2.4L(VIN Code T)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
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Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8154
6. Locate the round hole located in the small depressed area in the back side of the radiator
support upper bar just to the right (passenger side) of the air bag sensor mounting bracket and
install the J-nut included in the harness kit.
7. Attach the relay bracket (1) on the harness kit to the radiator tie bar (2) using the J-nut previously
installed and hex head bolt included in the kit.
Tighten
Tighten the screw to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
8. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
9. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector included in the harness
kit on the purple wire.
10. Route the new wiring harness down to the starter motor.
11. Remove the top starter bolt.
12. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
13. Remove the oil filter.
14. On 1996 models, remove the two bolts that attach the intake manifold brace to the engine block
and the two bolts that attach it to the intake manifold. Remove that brace.
15. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
16. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
17. Visually inspect the condition of the "S "terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 25 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 18-24 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 18 of this procedure. Steps 18-20 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
18. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (2 in) of wire on the terminal.
19. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
20. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector P/N 12089191 on the short
purple wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
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21. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
24. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you have just completed Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 27. Do NOT perform Steps 25-26. If you
did NOT perform Steps 18-24, proceed to Step 25.
25. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
26. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
27. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire of the vehicle wiring
harness.
28. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
29. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important
If you performed Steps 18-24 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 32.
Do not perform Steps 30-31. If you did NOT perform Step 18-24 earlier, proceed to Step 30.
30. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure that the "S" terminal is snug
to the starter solenoid cap.
31. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next steps, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
32. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
33. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
34. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
35. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8156
36. Remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter motor.
37. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and reinstall it in the
starter.
Tighten
Tighten to 9Nm (80 lb in).
38. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
39. Lower the vehicle.
40. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
41. Raise the vehicle.
42. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
43. On 1996 models, install the intake manifold brace to the engine block and install the two bolts
finger tight. Install the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold.
Tighten
^ Tighten the two bolts attaching the brace to the intake manifold to 24 Nm (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the two bolts to the engine block to 26 Nm (19 lb ft).
44. Install a new oil filter.
45. Lower the vehicle.
46. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
47. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
48. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
49. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8157
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
50. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
51. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
52. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
53. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark
54. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand AM/Skylark - Procedure A(All Engine)
1998 N Car - Achieva/Grand Am/Skylark - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the fuse panel trim plate from the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the 15 amp AIR
BAG fuse.
2. Remove the left side dash lower insulation panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow air bag connector located at
the base of the steering column and disconnect the connector.
4. Remove the left side knee bolster trim panel.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt steering column lever.
6. Remove the bezel around the key lock cylinder.
7. Remove the screws that hold the steering column trim in place.
8. Remove both halves of the steering column trim.
9. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8158
10. Remove the two screws (2) holding the ignition switch (3) to the steering column (1). Remove
the ignition switch from the steering column.
Notice
The ignition switch mounting screws and the screws that secure the upper and lower halves of the
steering column covers are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when attaching the
ignition switch and steering column covers, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and check for proper location of the tab. Install
both screws.
Tighten
Tighten both screws to 1.4 Nm (12 lb in).
12. Attach the wiring harness connectors to the ignition switch.
13. Reinstall the upper and lower steering column covers.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
14. Reinstall the knee bolster trim.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
15. Reconnect the yellow airbag connector at the base of the steering column and install the CPA.
16. Reinstall the sound insulator panel.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
17. Reinstall the 15-amp AIR BAG fuse into the fuse box and replace the I/P trim cover.
18. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
1998 - 2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.4L (VIN Code T)
1998 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8159
3. loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8160
13. Using the 10 mm (hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Important
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
15. Remove the top starter bolt.
16. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
17. Remove the oil filter.
18. Remove the bottom starter bolt and remove the starter.
19. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
20. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 28 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 21-27 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 21 of this procedure. Steps 21-27 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
21. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
22. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8161
23. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
24. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
25. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
26. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
27. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 30. Do NOT perform Steps 28-29. If you
did NOT perform Steps 21-27, proceed to Step 28.
28. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
29. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
30. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
31. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
32. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 21-27 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 35.
Do not perform Steps 33-34. If you did NOT perform Steps 21-27 earlier proceed to Step 33.
33. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
34. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
35. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
36. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
37. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
38. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8162
39. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid (1) to the starter
motor.
40. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or solenoid
bolt. Install the nut on the stud.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
41. Install the starter to the engine and install the lower bolt finger tight. Do not tighten at this time.
42. Lower the vehicle.
43. Install the upper starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
44. Raise the vehicle.
45. Tighten the lower starter bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb ft).
46. Install a new oil filter.
47. Lower the vehicle.
48. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
49. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8163
50. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
51. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
52. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
53. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
54. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must he used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
55. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
56. Check the engine oil level and add as necessary.
1999-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.4L Engine (VIN Code T)
1. Remove the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle
body.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
3. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the air cleaner outlet resonator to the throttle body.
5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and the air cleaner outlet resonator from the throttle body.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8164
6. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
7. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
8. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
lo~ation marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
9. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
10. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
11. Using an appropriate crimping took, install one end of the butt connector, included in the
harness kit, on the purple wire.
12. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
13. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8165
Important
The-push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
14. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
Important
The terminals located on the starter motor solenoid can be accessed through the opening between
the runners in the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the starter motor to access the
terminals on the 1999-2001 models.
15. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
16. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 24 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 17-23 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 17 of this procedure. Steps 17-23 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
17. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
18. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
19. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
20. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 17-23 proceed to Step 26. Do NOT perform Steps 24-25. If you
did NOT perform Steps 17-23, proceed to Step 24.
24. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
25. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
26. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness arid the service harness kit.
27. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
28. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8166
Important:
If you performed Steps 17-23 earlier proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 31.
Do not perform Steps 29-30. If you did NOT perform Steps 17-23 earlier, proceed to Step 29.
29. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Ensure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
Important:
Because access to the "S" terminal and the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid is limited, it may not
be possible to use a torque wrench when tightening the terminal attaching nuts in upcoming Steps
30 and 34. If your torque wrench cannot be used because of insufficient clearance, it is acceptable
to tighten the nuts "securely" using regular hand tools.
30. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
31. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
32. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
33. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
34. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
35. If equipped, remove the 10 mm hex head nut from the ground stud on the engine block. If no
ground stud is present, remove one of the long bolts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8167
(1) that attach the starter motor end cap to the starter housing.
36. Install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the ground stud or on the long
bolt on the starter motor. Install the nut on the stud or install the long bolt in the starter.
Tighten
^ Tighten the nut to 18 Nm (13 lb ft).
^ Tighten the long bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
37. Remove the rubber seal from around the top of the throttle body and install it on the bottom of
the air cleaner outlet resonator.
38. Position the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator over the throttle body and install the hose to
the bottom of the resonator.
39. Install the air cleaner outlet resonator on the throttle body.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
40. Connect the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing.
Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
41. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor in the air cleaner outlet duct.
42. Install the two 10 mm hex head bolts that secure the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
43. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important:
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
44. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire With 2.2L (VIN Code 4)
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN Code 4)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8168
1. Slide the J-nut (1) included in the harness kit on the bottom edge of the upper radiator support
(3) so that it is located just to the right of the existing clip (4). If there is no clip, use the prop rod
holding clip (5) as a reference for determining the correct location for the J-nut.
2. With the J-nut in position, use a pencil to mark the location (2) for a 6.35 mm hole (1/4 in) to be
drilled.
3. Remove the J-nut and using a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) drill bit, drill a hole in the radiator support at the
location marked (2) in the previous step. The above illustration shows the radiator support after the
hole has been drilled.
4. Touch up the drilled hole as necessary using an appropriate anti-corrosion material.
5. On the HARNESS KIT, strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wire. The
purple wire is the only wire on the harness kit that does not have a terminal on it.
6. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of the butt connector, included in the harness
kit, on the purple wire.
7. Slide the J-nut on the bottom edge of the radiator support and over the drilled hole.
8. Using the 10 mm hex head bolt provided in the harness kit, attach the relay (1) to the radiator
support using the previously drilled hole and J-nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
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Important:
The push-in barbed feature on the plastic harness clips are NOT used when attaching the wiring
harness together in the next step.
9. Route and attach the service relay harness (3) to the vehicle wiring harness (2) using the two
plastic clips (1) already attached to the relay harness.
10. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal of the starter and disconnect all wires and the positive
battery cable from the terminal.
11. Visually inspect the condition of the "S" terminal stud and nut on the starter solenoid.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be in good condition with little or no sign of corrosion, proceed to
Step 19 and remove the nut. Do NOT perform Steps 12-18 if the stud and nut are in good
condition.
^ If the nut and/or stud appear to be corroded to the point where the stud may break off if removal
of the nut is attempted, proceed to Step 12 of this procedure. Steps 12-14 will require the use of
one ADDITIONAL butt connector, P/N 12089191. Obtain the additional butt connector before
proceeding.
12. Using wire cutters, cut the purple wire off the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid leaving
approximately 50 mm (1/4 in) of wire on the terminal.
13. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the short purple wire that remained on the
starter solenoid.
14. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install one end of butt connector, P/N 12089191 on the
short purple wire.
15. Using wire cutters, cut the small ring terminal off the end of the red wire on the service harness
kit.
16. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the red wire.
17. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the red wire in the other end of the butt connector
that is on the starter solenoid short purple wire.
18. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you have just completed Steps 12-18, proceed to Step21. DO NOT perform Steps 19-20. If you
did NOT perform Steps 12-18, proceed to Step 19.
19. Remove the nut from the starter solenoid "S" terminal, and remove all the wires from the
terminal.
20. Cut the ring terminal from the vehicle wiring harness purple wire, which was removed from the
"S" terminal.
21. Strip the insulation back about 6.35 mm (1/4 in) on the purple wires of the vehicle wiring
harness and the service harness kit.
22. Using an appropriate crimping tool, install the other end of the butt connector, which is already
installed on the harness kit, on the purple wire on the vehicle's wiring harness. Crimp the wires
together firmly.
23. Using an appropriate tool, heat shrink the yellow tubing on the butt connector to shrink it into
position to seal the connection.
Important:
If you performed Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to the next IMPORTANT statement prior to Step 26.
Do not perform Steps 24-25. If you did NOT perform Steps 12-18 earlier, proceed to Step 24.
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24. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "S" terminal. Be sure the "S" terminal is snug to
the starter solenoid cap.
25. Install the small ring terminal on the red wire of the service harness kit and install it on the "S"
terminal. Reinstall the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
Important:
In the next step, make sure the battery cable is the last cable positioned on the starter solenoid "B"
terminal so that the nut is tightened against the battery cable.
26. Thoroughly clean the interface surfaces of the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid.
27. Clean the fusible link terminal on the vehicle wiring harness and install it on the starter solenoid
"B" terminal.
28. Install the large ring terminal on the harness kit on the starter solenoid "B" terminal.
29. Clean and install the positive battery cable on the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
30. On 1998 models, remove one of the bolts (2) that attach the starter solenoid to the starter
motor. On 1999-2001 models, remove one of the long bolts (1) that hold the starter motor end cap
to the housing.
31. On 1998 models, install the ground ring terminal (black wire) on the harness kit on the bolt and
reinstall the bolt in the starter solenoid. On 1999-2001 models, install the ground ring terminal
(black wire) on the long bolt and reinstall the bolt in the starter.
Tighten
Tighten the starter solenoid bolt or long starter motor bolt to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
32. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery.
Tighten
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Page 8171
Tighten the bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Important
Do not use a remote starter device in the next step. The vehicle ignition switch must be used to
start the vehicle (turn ignition switch to crank position) to verify that the ignition switch is in good
working condition.
33. Using the ignition key, start the engine and allow it to run approximately 5 seconds. After 5
seconds, turn the engine off for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this 6 times.
^ If the starter cranks the engine 6 times in a row, proceed to the next step.
^ If the starter will NOT crank the engine, skip to Procedure A for J Car Cavalier/Sunfire.
1998-2001 J-Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - Procedure A (All Engine)
1998-2001 J Car - Cavalier/Sunfire - PROCEDURE A (all engines)
1. Remove the small cover from the left side end of the Instrument Panel (I/P) and remove the AIR
BAG fuse from the fuse panel.
2. Remove the 7 mm hex head screws that attach the left side insulator panel below the I/P and
reposition the panel.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the yellow SIR connector(s) that are
clipped to the metal I/P brace near the bottom of the steering column.
4. Disconnect the yellow connectors.
5. If equipped, remove the tilt column lever.
6. Remove the three screws attaching the lower steering column cover and remove the cover.
7. Remove the upper steering column cover.
8. Remove the two TORX(R) head screws (2) that attach the ignition switch (3) to the column (1).
9. Remove the ignition switch from the column and disconnect the electrical connectors from the
switch. Discard the switch.
10. Connect the electrical connectors to the new ignition switch.
Notice:
The ignition switch mounting screws are self-tapping. To prevent stripping the screws when
attaching the ignition switch, the following procedure should be used:
^ Place the screw into position and with slight pressure, rotate the screw in a counterclockwise
(loosening) direction.
^ When the original thread is located, the screw will drop slightly; reverse direction and tighten the
screw.
11. Position the new ignition switch to the column and install the two attaching TORX(R) head
screws.
Tighten
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
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Page 8172
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
12. Install the upper steering column cover.
13. Install the lower steering column cover and attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 4 Nm (35 lb in).
14. If equipped, install a new tilt lever.
15. Connect the two yellow SIR connectors at the base of the steering column.
16. Install the CPA in each connector and clip the connector(s) to the I/P brace.
17. If equipped, position the left side insulator panel to the bottom of the I/P and install the
attaching screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
18. Install the AIR BAG fuse and install the fuse panel cover.
19. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and verify that the AIR BAG indicator light flashes
seven times and goes out.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 04002 > Feb > 04 > Recall - Ignition Circuit Defect >
Page 8173
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Page 8174
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
Alignment: Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Bulletin No.: 05-03-07-009C
Date: December 09, 2010
Subject: Wheel Alignment Specifications, Requirements and Recommendations for GM Vehicles
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being extensively revised to provide technicians and warranty
administrators with an all inclusive guide for wheel alignments. PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT
SERVICE. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-07-009B (Section 03 - Suspension).
Purpose
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide retail, wholesale and fleet personnel with General Motors'
warranty service requirements and recommendations for customer concerns related to wheel
alignment. For your convenience, this bulletin updates and centralizes all of GM's Standard Wheel
Alignment Service Procedures, Policy Guidelines and bulletins on wheel alignment warranty
service.
Important PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING
YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT SERVICE.
The following five (5) key steps are a summary of this bulletin and are REQUIRED in completing a
successful wheel alignment service.
1. Verify the vehicle is in an Original Equipment condition for curb weight, tires, wheels, suspension
and steering configurations. Vehicles
modified in any of these areas are not covered for wheel alignment warranty.
2. Review the customer concern relative to "Normal Operation" definitions. 3. Verify that vehicle is
within the "Mileage Policy" range. 4. Document wheel alignment warranty claims appropriately for
labor operations E2000 and E2020.
The following information must be documented or attached to the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
5. Use the proper wheel alignment equipment (preferred with print-out capability), process and the
appropriate calibration maintenance schedules.
Important If it is determined that a wheel alignment is necessary under warranty, use the proper
labor code for the repair. E2000 for Steering Wheel Angle and/or Front Toe set or E2020 for Wheel
Alignment Check/Adjust includes Caster, Camber and Toe set (Wheel alignment labor time for
other component repairs is to be charged to the component that causes a wheel alignment
operation.).
The following flowchart is to help summarize the information detailed in this bulletin and should be
used whenever a wheel alignment is performed.
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Verify Original Equipment Condition of the Vehicle
- Verify that Original Equipment Tires and Wheels or Official GM Accessory Tires and Wheels are
on the vehicle.
- Verify that aftermarket suspension "Lift" or "Lowering" Kits or other suspension alterations have
NOT been done to the vehicle.
- Check for accidental damage to the vehicle; for example, severe pothole or curb impacts, collision
damage that may have affected the wheel alignment of the vehicle; e.g., engine cradles,
suspension control arms, axles, wheels, wheel covers, tires may show evidence of damage/impact.
- Check to be sure vehicle has seen "Normal Use" rather than abuse; e.g., very aggressive driving
may show up by looking at the tires and condition of the vehicle.
- Check for other additional equipment items that may significantly affect vehicle mass such as
large tool boxes, campers, snow plow packages (without the snowplow RPO), etc., especially in
trucks and cutaway/incomplete vehicles. Significant additional mass can affect trim height and
wheel alignment of the vehicle and may necessitate a customer pay wheel alignment when placed
semi-permanently in the vehicle (Upfitter instructions are to realign the vehicle after placement of
these types of items. (This typically applies to trucks and incomplete vehicles that can be upfit with
equipment such as the above.)
Customer Concerns, "Normal Operation" Conditions and "Mileage Policy"
Possible Concerns
The following are typical conditions that may require wheel alignment warranty service:
1. Lead/Pull: defined as "at a constant highway speed on a typical straight road, the amount of
effort required at the steering wheel to maintain the
vehicle's straight heading."
Important Please evaluate for the condition with hands-on the steering wheel. Follow the "Vehicle
Leads/Pulls" diagnostic tree located in SI to determine the cause of a lead/pull concern. Lead/Pull
concerns can be due to road crown or road slope, tires, wheel alignment or even in rare
circumstances a steering gear issue. Lead/pull concerns due to road crown are considered
"Normal Operation" and are NOT a warrantable condition -- the customer should be advised that
this is "Normal Operation."
Important Some customers may comment on a "Lead/Pull" when they hold the steering wheel in a
level condition. If so, this is more likely a "steering wheel angle" concern because the customer is
"steering" the vehicle to obtain a "level" steering wheel.
2. Steering wheel angle to the left or right (counter-clockwise or clockwise, respectively): Defined
as the steering wheel angle (clocking)
deviation from "level" while maintaining a straight heading on a typical straight road.
3. Irregular or Premature tire wear: Slight to very slight "feathering" or "edge" wear on the
shoulders of tires is NOT considered unusual and
should even out with a tire rotation; if the customer is concerned about a "feathering" condition of
the tires, the customer could be advised to rotate the tires earlier than the next scheduled
mileage/maintenance interval (but no later than the next interval). Be sure to understand the
customer's driving habits as this will also heavily influence the tire wear performance; tire wear from
aggressive or abusive driving habits is NOT a warrantable condition.
Important Slight or mild feathering, cupping, edge or heel/toe wear of tire tread shoulders is
"normal" and can show up very early in a tire/vehicle service mileage; in fact, some new tires can
show evidence of feathering from the factory. These issues do NOT affect the overall performance
and tread life of the tire. Dealer personnel should always check the customer's maintenance
records to ensure that tire inflation pressure is being maintained to placard and that the tires are
being rotated (modified-X pattern) at the proper mileage intervals. Wheel alignments are NOT to be
performed for the types of "Normal" Tire Feathering shown in Figures 1-4 below.
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8181
Figure 1: Full Tread View - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder/Adjacent/Center
Ribs
Figure 2: Tire Shoulder View Example 1 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder
Figure 3: Tire Shoulder View Example 2 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Figure 4: Detail Side View of Tire Shoulder Area - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Important When a wheel alignment is deemed necessary for tire wear, be sure to document on the
repair order, in as much detail as possible, the severity and type of tire wear (e.g., severe center
wear or severe inside or outside shoulder wear) and the position of the tire on the vehicle (RF, LF,
LR, RR). Please note the customer's concern with the wear such as, noise, appearance, wear life,
etc. A field product report with pictures of the tire wear condition is recommended. Refer to
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-00-89-002J and #07-00-89-036C.
4. Other repairs that affect wheel alignment; e.g., certain component replacement such as
suspension control arm replacement, engine cradle
adjustment/replace, steering gear replacement, steering tie rod replace, suspension strut/shock,
steering knuckle, etc. may require a wheel alignment.
Important If other components or repairs are identified as affecting the wheel alignment, policy calls
for the wheel alignment labor time to be charged to the replaced/repaired component's labor
operation time rather than the wheel alignment labor operations.
Important Vibration type customer concerns are generally NOT due to wheel alignment except in
the rare cases; e.g., extreme diagonal wear across the tread. In general, wheel alignments are
NOT to be performed as an investigation/correction for vibration concerns.
"Normal Operation" Conditions
Vehicle Lead/Pull Due to Road Crown or Slope:
As part of "Normal Operation," vehicles will follow side-to-side or left to right road crown or slope.
Be sure to verify from the customer the types of roads they are driving as they may not recognize
the influence of road crown on vehicle lead/pull and steering wheel angle. If a vehicle requires
significant steering effort to prevent it from "climbing" the road crown there may be an issue to be
looked into further.
Important
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A wheel alignment will generally NOT correct vehicles that follow the road crown since this is within
"Normal Operation."
Mileage Policy
The following mileage policy applies for E2020 and E2000 labor operations: Note
Wheel Alignment is NOT covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for Express and Savana
Cutaway vehicles as these vehicles require Upfitters to set the wheel alignment after completing
the vehicles.
- 0-800 km (0-500 mi): E2000/E2020 claims ONLY allowed with Call Center Authorization. Due to
the tie down during shipping, the vehicle's suspension requires some time to reach normal
operating position. For this reason, new vehicles are generally NOT to be aligned until they have
accumulated at least 800 km (500 mi). A field product report should accompany any claim within
this mileage range.
- 801-12,000 km (501-7,500 mi):
- If a vehicle came from the factory with incorrect alignment settings, any resulting off-angle
steering wheel, lead/pull characteristics or the rare occurrence of excessive tire wear would be
apparent early in the life of the vehicle. The following policy applies:
- Vehicles 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe - Escalade/ESV/EXT,
Tahoe/Suburban, Yukon/XL/Denali, Silverado/Sierra, Express/Savana, Corvette and
Colorado/Canyon: E2000/E2020 Claims: Call Center Authorization Required
- All Vehicles NOT 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe as noted above:
E2000/E2020 Claims: Dealer Service Manager Authorization Required
- 12,001 km and beyond (7,501 miles and beyond): During this period, customers are responsible
for the wheel alignment expense or dealers may provide on a case-by case basis a one-time
customer enthusiasm claim up to 16,000 km (10,000 mi). In the event that a defective component
required the use of the subject labor operations, the identified defective component labor operation
will include the appropriate labor time for a wheel alignment as an add condition to the component
repair.
Important Only one wheel alignment labor operation claim (E2000 or E2020) may be used per VIN.
Warranty Documentation Requirements
When a wheel alignment service has been deemed necessary, the following items will need to be
clearly documented on/with the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
1. Document the customer concern in as much detail as possible on the repair order and in the
warranty administration system. Preferred examples:
- Steering wheel is off angle in the counterclockwise direction by approximately x degrees or
clocking position.
- Vehicle lead/pulls to the right at approximately x-y mph. Vehicle will climb the road crown. Severe,
Moderate or Slight.
- RF and LF tires are wearing on the outside shoulders with severe feathering.
Important In the event of a lead/pull or steering wheel angle concern, please note the direction of
lead/pull (left or right) or direction of steering wheel angle (clockwise or counterclockwise) on the
repair order and within the warranty claim verbatim.
Important In the event of a tire wear concern, please note the position on the vehicle and where the
wear is occurring on the tire; i.e., the RF tire is wearing on the inside shoulder.
2. Document the technician's findings on cause and correction of the issue. Examples:
- Reset LF toe from 0.45 degrees to 0.10 degrees and RF toe from -0.25 degrees to 0.10 degrees
to correct the steering wheel angle from 5 degrees counterclockwise to 0 degrees.
- Reset LF camber from 0.25 degrees to -0.05 degrees to correct the cross-camber condition of
+0.30 degrees to 0.00 degrees on the vehicle.
- Front Sum toe was found to be 0.50 degrees, reset to 0.20 degrees.
3. Print-out the "Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings and attach them to the
Repair Order or if print-out capability is not
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8183
available, measurements may also be clearly and legibly handwritten into the Wheel Alignment
Repair Order Questionnaire attached to this bulletin.
4. Attach the Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire below along with the print-out of
"Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements to
the Repair Order and retain for use by GM.
Wheel Alignment Equipment and Process
Wheel alignments must be performed with a quality machine that will give accurate results when
performing checks. "External Reference" (image-based camera technology) is preferred. Please
refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 05-00-89-029B: General Motors Dealership Critical Equipment
Requirements and Recommendations.
Requirements:
- Computerized four wheel alignment system.
- Computer capable of printing before and after alignment reports.
- Computer capable of time and date stamp printout.
- Racking system must have jacking capability
- Racking system must be capable of level to 1.6 mm (1/16 in)
- Appropriate wheel stops and safety certification
- Built-in turn plates and slip plates
- Wheel clamps capable of attaching to 20" or larger wheels
- Racking capable of accepting any GM passenger car or light duty truck
- Operator properly trained and ASE-certified (U.S. only) in wheel alignment
Recommendations:
Racking should have front and rear jacking capability.
Equipment Maintenance and Calibration:
Alignment machines must be regularly calibrated in order to give correct information. Most
manufacturers recommend the following:
- Alignment machines with "internal reference" sensors should be checked (and calibrated, if
necessary) every six months.
- Alignment machines with "external reference" (image-based camera technology) should be
checked (and calibrated, if necessary) once a year.
- Racks must be kept level to within 1.6 mm (1/16 in).
- If any instrument that is part of the alignment machine is dropped or damaged in some way,
check the calibration immediately.
Check with the manufacturer of your specific equipment for their recommended service/calibration
schedule.
Wheel Alignment Process
When performing wheel alignment measurement and/or adjustment, the following steps should be
taken:
Preliminary Steps:
1. Verify that the vehicle has a full tank of fuel (compensate as necessary). 2. Inspect the wheels
and the tires for damage. 3. Inspect the tires for the proper inflation and irregular tire wear. 4.
Inspect the wheel bearings for excessive play. 5. Inspect all suspension and steering parts for
looseness, wear, or damage. 6. Inspect the steering wheel for excessive drag or poor return due to
stiff or rusted linkage or suspension components. 7. Inspect the vehicle trim height. 8. Compensate
for frame angle on targeted vehicles (refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI).
Satisfactory vehicle operation may occur over a wide range of alignment angles. However, if the
wheel alignment angles are not within the range of specifications, adjust the wheel alignment to the
specifications. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI. Give consideration to excess loads,
such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. Follow the wheel alignment equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
Measure/Adjust:
Important Prior to making any adjustments to wheel alignment on a vehicle, technicians must verify
that the wheel alignment specifications loaded into their wheel alignment machine are up-to-date
by comparing these to the wheel alignment specifications for the appropriate model and model year
in SI. Using incorrect and/or outdated specifications may result in unnecessary adjustments,
irregular and/or premature tire wear and repeat customer concerns
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8184
Important When performing adjustments to vehicles requiring a 4-wheel alignment, set the rear
wheel alignment angles first in order to obtain proper front wheel alignment angles.
Perform the following steps in order to measure the front and rear alignment angles:
1. Install the alignment equipment according to the manufacturer's instructions. 2. Jounce the front
and the rear bumpers 3 times prior to checking the wheel alignment. 3. Measure the alignment
angles and record the readings.
If necessary, adjust the wheel alignment to vehicle specification and record the before and after
measurements. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI.
Important Technicians must refer to SI for the correct wheel alignment specifications. SI is the only
source of GM wheel alignment specifications that is kept up-to-date throughout the year.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper repair.
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Frame Angle Measurement (Express / Savana Only) ........
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What corrected the customer concern and was the repair verified?
Please Explain: .............
Disclaimer
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Alignment: Technical Service Bulletins Alignment - Latest Available Specifications
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 83-31-09
Date: October, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Alignment Specifications
Models: 1998-99 Passenger Cars and Trucks
This bulletin is being issued to communicate, in chart form, the final 1998 and the initial 1999 model
year vehicle alignment specifications.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8189
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8190
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8191
Specifications noted in these charts are the latest available and supersede any that have been
previously published.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride
(Trim) Height Specifications
Alignment: Specifications Vehicle Ride (Trim) Height Specifications
J And K Measurements
Model: 2JB37/2JB69 Suspension: FE1/FE2 Tire Size: P/195/70R14 Z: 12 mm (15/32 in) J: 233 mm
(9.17 in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride
(Trim) Height Specifications > Page 8194
K: 240 mm (9.45 in)
Model: 2JB37/2JB69 Suspension: FE1/FE2 Tire Size: P/195/65R15 Z: 6 mm (16/64 in) J: 233 mm
(9.17 in) K: 240 mm (9.45 in)
Model: 2JB67 Suspension: FE1/FE2 Tire Size: P/195/65R15 Z: 6 mm (16/64 in) J: 233 mm (9.17
in) K: 240 mm (9.45 in)
All measurements taken with a full fuel tank. Measurements for J, K, and Z all have +/- 10 mm (3/8
in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride
(Trim) Height Specifications > Page 8195
Alignment: Specifications Alignment Specifications
Wheel Alignment Specifications
Front Caster:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 1.45° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 1.00°
Front Camber:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 1.00°
Individual Toe:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.12°
Sum Toe:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.25°
Cross Camber:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 1.00°
Cross Caster:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 1.00°
Rear Camber:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
.............................................................. -0.40° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.75°
Rear Sum Toe:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.20° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.30°
Rear Thrust Angle:
Alignment Specification .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.00° Tolerance ...................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... ± 0.25°
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description
Alignment: Description and Operation General Description
Wheel alignment refers to the angular relationship between the wheels, the control arms, the
suspension and the ground. When measured, the vehicle should have a full fuel tank, no
passengers, and no other loading or items in the trunk or passenger compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 8198
Alignment: Description and Operation Caster Description
The caster is the tilting of the front steering axis (at the top) (1) either forward or backward from the
vertical. A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). The caster influences
directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear. The caster is affected by vehicle
height, therefore it is important to keep the body at the designed height. Overloading the vehicle, or
a weak or sagging rear spring, will affect the caster. When the rear of the vehicle is lower than the
designed trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the
vehicle is higher than the designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive
caster.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 8199
Alignment: Description and Operation Camber Description
The camber is the tilting of the front wheels from the vertical (1) when viewed from the front of the
vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt
inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the
vertical. The camber setting will influence the directional control and the tire wear.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 8200
Alignment: Description and Operation Toe Description
The toe is a measurement of how much the front of the wheels are turned in or out from a
straight-ahead position. When the wheels are turned in, the toe is positive (+). When the wheels
are turned out, the toe is negative (-). The actual amount of toe is nominally only a fraction of a
degree. The purpose of the toe is to ensure that the wheels roll parallel. The toe also serves to
offset the small deflections of the wheel support system that occurs when the vehicle is rolling
forward. In other words, even when the wheels are set to toe in or out slightly when the vehicle is
standing still, the wheels tend to roll parallel on the road when the vehicle is moving. The toe
affects tire wear.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 8201
Alignment: Description and Operation
General Description
Wheel alignment refers to the angular relationship between the wheels, the control arms, the
suspension and the ground. When measured, the vehicle should have a full fuel tank, no
passengers, and no other loading or items in the trunk or passenger compartment.
Caster Description
The caster is the tilting of the front steering axis (at the top) (1) either forward or backward from the
vertical. A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). The caster influences
directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear. The caster is affected by vehicle
height, therefore it is important to keep the body at the designed height. Overloading the vehicle, or
a weak or sagging rear spring, will affect the caster. When the rear of the vehicle is lower than the
designed trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the
vehicle is higher than the designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive
caster.
Camber Description
The camber is the tilting of the front wheels from the vertical (1) when viewed from the front of the
vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt
inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the
vertical. The camber setting will influence the directional control and the tire wear.
Toe Description
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 8202
The toe is a measurement of how much the front of the wheels are turned in or out from a
straight-ahead position. When the wheels are turned in, the toe is positive (+). When the wheels
are turned out, the toe is negative (-). The actual amount of toe is nominally only a fraction of a
degree. The purpose of the toe is to ensure that the wheels roll parallel. The toe also serves to
offset the small deflections of the wheel support system that occurs when the vehicle is rolling
forward. In other words, even when the wheels are set to toe in or out slightly when the vehicle is
standing still, the wheels tend to roll parallel on the road when the vehicle is moving. The toe
affects tire wear.
Thrust Angles Description
The front wheels aim or steer the vehicle, but the rear wheels control the tracking. This tracking
action is relative to thrust angle. Thrust angle (2) is defined as the path that the rear wheels will
take. Ideally, the thrust angle is geometrically aligned with the body centerline (1).
Lead/Pull Description
Lead/Pull is the deviation of the vehicle from a straight path, on a level road with no pressure on
the steering wheel.
Lead/Pull is generally caused by the following conditions:
^ A misconstructed tire.
^ An uneven brake adjustment.
^ A misaligned wheel.
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a vehicle. An example of this is placement of
the belt. Off-center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to develop a side force while rolling
straight down the road and the tire will tend to roll like a cone.
The RADIAL TIRE LEAD/PULL CORRECTION chart should be used to make sure that the front
wheel alignment is not mistaken for tire lead. Rear tires will not cause lead.
Torque Steer Description
Some degree of torque steer to the right may normally be experienced during a heavy throttle
application on some front wheel drive vehicles which do not have equal length drive axles. This is
due to the right drive axle being longer than the left axle and an associated difference in an axle
angle. Vehicles with intermediate shaft assembly have almost equal length axles.
A difference in axle length results in more torque toe-in effect to the left front wheel. This condition
can be noticed when accelerating from a standing start or at lower speeds. A simple measurement
in order to determine the degree of torque steer is to place a small piece of tape at the top center of
the steering wheel. Drive the vehicle and note the inches of steering wheel deflection required to
steer the vehicle straight under heavy acceleration. A comparison of like vehicles will determine if a
particular vehicle has a greater than normal degree of torque steer. The following factors may
cause the torque steer to be more apparent on a particular vehicle:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 8203
^ A slightly smaller diameter tire on the right front will increase a right torque lead. Inspect the front
for a difference in brand, construction or size. If the tires appear similar, change the front tires side
to side and re-set the vehicle. Tire and wheel assemblies have the most significant effect on the
torque steer correction.
^ A large difference in the right and left front tire pressure.
^ Any looseness in the control arm bushings, the tie rod assemblies, or the steering gear mounting
which permits a front wheel to pull forward and toe-in under torque more than the opposite side. A
loose suspension component may also result in an opposite lead deceleration.
^ A high front trim height which would increase the drive angle axle.
^ A binding or tight drive axle joint. A tight joint or high front trim height may also exhibit a wobble
condition between 24 and 48 km/h (15 and 30 mph).
^ An incorrect, worn or loose engine mounts causes adverse drive axle angles.
^ An unequal engine/transmission height from the left side to the right side of the vehicle.
Determine the measuring points. Replace the engine/transmission mount if the difference from side
to side is more than 6 mm (17/64 in). Do not shim the engine mounts. This may cause other
symptoms.
^ On occasion, the side to side trim height differences may be the result of an inoperative stabilizer
shaft. Disconnect the stabilizer links. Measure the trim heights again after the vehicle has been
settled, driven a short distance. Replace the stabilizer shaft, if the side to side difference is
corrected. Do not change the stabilizer shaft however, if there is no change in the trim height. A
trim height difference of more than 6 mm (17/64 in), indicates a bent stabilizer shaft, attaching links
or a suspension component that may need replacement.
The following conditions affect the vehicle handling and/or a constant right or left lead separate
from torque steer causes. The existence of one or more of these conditions may compound a
torque steer complaint.
^ An incorrect front-wheel alignment or a rear-wheel alignment condition would cause the vehicle to
track incorrectly. A difference in the front wheel to the rear wheel measurement. compared side to
side may indicate a dog track condition or one front wheel ahead of the other due to a
misalignment or other condition. A substantial caster difference is an indication of misalignment or
other condition. The front-wheel caster should be equal or within specifications and the camber
may be biased slightly in-order to offset a lead condition.
^ Suspension support misalignment. Refer to BODY AND FRAME for measurement points in order
to determine proper underbody alignment. Front steering damage such as a bent strut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering
Alignment: Testing and Inspection Hard Steering
Hard Steering - Part 1 Of 2
Hard Steering - Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering > Page 8206
Alignment: Testing and Inspection Memory Steer
Memory Steer - Part 1 Of 2
Memory Steer - Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering > Page 8207
Alignment: Testing and Inspection Torque Steer
Some degree of torque steer to the right may normally be experienced during heavy throttle
application on some front-wheel-drive vehicles that do not have equal length drive axles. This is
due to the right drive axle being longer than the left axle and the associated difference in axle
angle. Vehicles with intermediate shaft assemblies have almost equal length axles. A difference in
axle length results in more torque toe-in effect to the left front wheel. This condition can be noticed
when accelerating from a standing start or at lower speeds. A simple measurement in order to
determine the degree of torque steer is to place a small piece of tape at the top center of the
steering wheel. Drive the vehicle and note the inches of steering wheel deflection required in order
to steer the vehicle straight under heavy acceleration. A comparison of like vehicles will then
determine if a particular vehicle has a greater than normal degree of torque steer. The following
factors may cause the torque steer to be more apparent on a particular vehicle:
^ A large difference in the right and the left front tire pressure.
^ A slightly smaller diameter tire on the right front will increase a right torque lead. Inspect the front
tires for a difference in brand, construction, or size. If the tires appear similar, change the front tires
side to side and re-test the vehicle. The tire and the wheel assemblies have the most significant
effect on torque steer correction.
^ Any looseness in control arm bushings, tie rod assemblies or steering gear mounting which
permits a front wheel to pull forward and toe-in under torque more than the opposite side. A loose
suspension component may also result in an opposite lead on deceleration.
^ High front trim height which would increase drive axle angle.
^ Binding or tight drive axle joints. A tight joint or high front trim height may also exhibit a wobble
condition between 24 and 48 km/h (14 and 30 mph)
^ Incorrect, worn, or loose engine mounts causing adverse drive axle angles.
^ Unequal engine/transmission height from the left side to the right side of the vehicle. If a
difference from side to side is more than 6 mm (17/64 in) , change the trim heights by installing a
stronger spring in the side which is lower, or a weaker spring in the side which is shorter than the
specified Z heights. Replace the mounts. Do not shim the engine mounts as this may cause other
symptoms.
^ On occasion, side-to-side trim height differences may be the result of a faulty stabilizer shaft. In
order to check this, disconnect the stabilizer links and re-measure the trim heights. If the
side-to-side difference is corrected, replace the stabilizer shaft. If there is no change in the trim
height, do not change the stabilizer shaft. A trim height difference of more than 6 mm (17/64 in),
indicates a possible bent stabilizer shaft, attaching links, or a bent suspension component that may
need replacement.
The following conditions affect the vehicle handling and/or effect a constant right or left lead
separate from torque steer causes. The existence of one or more of these conditions may
compound a torque steer complaint.
^ Incorrect front-wheel alignment or a rear-wheel alignment condition which would cause the
vehicle to track incorrectly. A difference in the front wheel to rear wheel measurement compared
side to side may indicate a dog track condition or one front wheel ahead of the other due to a
misalignment or other condition. A substantial caster difference is an indication of misalignment or
an other condition. Front-wheel caster should be equal or within the specifications and the camber
may be biased slightly in order to offset a lead condition.
^ Suspension support misalignment. Refer to UNDERBODY, which lists measurement points in
order to determine proper underbody alignment.
^ Front suspension damage, such as a bent strut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering > Page 8208
Vehicle Leads/Pulls
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering > Page 8209
Alignment: Testing and Inspection
Hard Steering - Part 1 Of 2
Hard Steering - Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering > Page 8210
Memory Steer - Part 1 Of 2
Memory Steer - Part 2 Of 2
Torque Steer
Some degree of torque steer to the right may normally be experienced during heavy throttle
application on some front-wheel-drive vehicles that do not have equal length drive axles. This is
due to the right drive axle being longer than the left axle and the associated difference in axle
angle. Vehicles with intermediate shaft assemblies have almost equal length axles. A difference in
axle length results in more torque toe-in effect to the left front wheel. This condition can be noticed
when accelerating from a standing start or at lower speeds. A simple measurement in order to
determine the degree of torque steer is to place a small piece of tape at the top center of the
steering wheel. Drive the vehicle and note the inches of steering wheel deflection required in order
to steer the vehicle straight under heavy acceleration. A comparison of like vehicles will then
determine if a particular vehicle has a greater than normal degree of torque steer. The following
factors may cause the torque steer to be more apparent on a particular vehicle:
^ A large difference in the right and the left front tire pressure.
^ A slightly smaller diameter tire on the right front will increase a right torque lead. Inspect the front
tires for a difference in brand, construction, or size. If the tires appear similar, change the front tires
side to side and re-test the vehicle. The tire and the wheel assemblies have the most significant
effect on torque steer correction.
^ Any looseness in control arm bushings, tie rod assemblies or steering gear mounting which
permits a front wheel to pull forward and toe-in under torque more than the opposite side. A loose
suspension component may also result in an opposite lead on deceleration.
^ High front trim height which would increase drive axle angle.
^ Binding or tight drive axle joints. A tight joint or high front trim height may also exhibit a wobble
condition between 24 and 48 km/h (14 and 30 mph)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering > Page 8211
^ Incorrect, worn, or loose engine mounts causing adverse drive axle angles.
^ Unequal engine/transmission height from the left side to the right side of the vehicle. If a
difference from side to side is more than 6 mm (17/64 in) , change the trim heights by installing a
stronger spring in the side which is lower, or a weaker spring in the side which is shorter than the
specified Z heights. Replace the mounts. Do not shim the engine mounts as this may cause other
symptoms.
^ On occasion, side-to-side trim height differences may be the result of a faulty stabilizer shaft. In
order to check this, disconnect the stabilizer links and re-measure the trim heights. If the
side-to-side difference is corrected, replace the stabilizer shaft. If there is no change in the trim
height, do not change the stabilizer shaft. A trim height difference of more than 6 mm (17/64 in),
indicates a possible bent stabilizer shaft, attaching links, or a bent suspension component that may
need replacement.
The following conditions affect the vehicle handling and/or effect a constant right or left lead
separate from torque steer causes. The existence of one or more of these conditions may
compound a torque steer complaint.
^ Incorrect front-wheel alignment or a rear-wheel alignment condition which would cause the
vehicle to track incorrectly. A difference in the front wheel to rear wheel measurement compared
side to side may indicate a dog track condition or one front wheel ahead of the other due to a
misalignment or other condition. A substantial caster difference is an indication of misalignment or
an other condition. Front-wheel caster should be equal or within the specifications and the camber
may be biased slightly in order to offset a lead condition.
^ Suspension support misalignment. Refer to UNDERBODY, which lists measurement points in
order to determine proper underbody alignment.
^ Front suspension damage, such as a bent strut.
Vehicle Leads/Pulls
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering > Page 8212
Wander Or Poor Steering Stability
Dog Tracking
Body Leans Or Sways In Corners
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering > Page 8213
Suspension Bottoms
Noisy Front Suspension
Abnormal Or Excessive Tire Wear - Part 1 Of 2
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > System Diagnosis > Hard
Steering > Page 8214
Abnormal Or Excessive Tire Wear - Part 2 Of 2
Wheel Bearings Diagnosis
Wheel Bearings Diagnosis
CAUTION: front wheel drive vehicles, drive wheel spin should be limited to 35 mph as indicated on
the speedometer. This limit is necessary because the speedometer only Indicates one-half of the
actual wheel speed when one drive wheel is spinning and the other drive wheel Is stopped. Unless
care is taken In limiting drive wheel spin, the spinning wheel can reach excessive speeds. This can
result in possible tire disintegration or differential failure, which could cause serious personal injury
or extensive vehicle damage.
Wheel Tramp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Inspection
PRELIMINARY INSPECTIONS
The steering and the ride complaints are not always the result of improper alignment. Another
possibility is tire lead due to worn or improperly manufactured tires. The lead is the vehicle's
deviation from a straight path on a level road without pressure on the steering wheel. Refer to
VEHICLE LEADS/PULLS in SUSPENSION GENERAL DIAGNOSIS for the procedure to determine
if the vehicle had a lead problem. Before making any adjustment affecting wheel alignment, make
the following inspections in order to ensure correct the alignment readings and the alignment
adjustments.
Inspect 1. Inspect all the tires for the proper inflation pressures. Also check that the tires have
about the same tread wear. 2. Inspect the hub and bearing assemblies for excessive wear. Correct
as necessary. 3. Inspect the ball joints and the tie rod ends; if they are loose, correct them before
adjusting. 4. Inspect the vehicle trim height. If it is out of limits and a correction is to be made, do so
before adjusting the alignment. Refer to TRIM HEIGHT
SPECIFICATIONS in SUSPENSION GENERAL DIAGNOSIS.
5. Inspect the strut dampeners for proper operation. 6. Inspect the control arms for loose bushings.
7. Inspect the stabilizer shaft for loose or missing parts. 8. Inspect the suspension and the steering
components for damage and replace the parts as necessary.
Consideration must be given to excess loads, such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. If the items
are normally carried in the vehicle, the items should remain in the vehicle during alignment
adjustments. Loads such as these should be centered in the vehicle whenever possible to minimize
their effects. Consideration should also be given to the condition of the equipment being used in
order to adjust the alignment. Be sure to follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
Regardless of the equipment used to adjust the alignment, the vehicle must be on a level surface,
both fore-and-aft and sideways.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8217
Alignment: Service and Repair Ride/Trim Height Measurement and Adjustment
1. Prior to measuring the vehicle trim height, prepare the vehicle as follows: 2. Ensure that the
following conditions exist:
2.1. The fuel gage reads full. 2.2. The spare tire and the tools are properly located. 2.3. The vehicle
is free of the ice, the snow and the mud accumulations.
3. Set the front and the rear tire pressure to within plus or minus 20 kPa (3 psi) of the
recommended pressure shown on the tire placard. If two load
conditions are shown on the placard, use the lower load condition.
4. Close the engine compartment hood and all of the doors. 5. Up to 7 kg (15.5 lb) may be left in
the trunk if it is located approximately on the vehicle centerline. Remove the items necessary in
order to meet
this requirement.
6. Measure the vehicle trim height as follows:
^ Z and J Dimensions: Lift the front bumper of the vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in).
Gently remove your hands and let the vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure Z
and J dimensions. Push the front bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently repeat
twice for a total of 3 times. Measure Z and J dimensions. True heights are the average of the high
and low measurements.
^ K dimension: Lift the rear bumper of the vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently
remove your hands and let the vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure K
dimension. Push the rear bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently remove your
hands and let the vehicle rise on its own. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure K dimension.
True heights are the average of the high
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8218
and low measurements.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8219
Alignment: Service and Repair Front Wheel Alignment
Measuring Front Alignment Angles
MEASURING FRONT ALIGNMENT ANGLES
Important: ^
Install the alignment equipment following the manufacturer's instructions.
^ Jounce the front and rear bumpers three times to normalize the suspension prior to measuring
the angles.
^ Measure the alignment angles and record the readings. If adjustments are necessary, make them
in the following order: 1. Camber. 2. Toe.
Front Caster Adjustment
The caster is not adjustable. If the caster angle is not within specifications, inspect for suspension
support misalignment or front suspension damage. Replace the parts as necessary. Refer to
BODY AND FRAME for measurement points in order to determine the proper underbody
alignment.
Front Camber Adjustment
Important: When the camber adjustment is necessary, refer to STRUT AND KNUCKLE SCRIBING
for instructions on modifying the front strut.
1. Loosen both of the strut to knuckle nuts in order to allow slight movement. 2. Adjust the camber
to specification by moving the top of the wheel in or out. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT
SPECIFICATIONS. 3. Tighten the strut to the knuckle nuts.
Tighten Tighten the strut to the knuckle nuts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
Front Toe Adjustment
1. Be sure the steering wheel is set in a straight ahead position within +/- 5°. 2. Loosen the clamp
bolt (4). 3. Adjust the toe to specification by turning the adjuster (3).
Tighten Tighten the jam nut to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8220
Refer to FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8221
Alignment: Service and Repair Rear Wheel Alignment
MEASURING REAR ALIGNMENT ANGLES
After the front wheel alignment has been completed, the rear alignment angles should be checked
if there is excessive rear tire wear or the wheels do not track properly. The rear wheels should be
parallel to and the same distance from the vehicle's centerline.
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Rear wheel alignment is not adjustable. If the camber and toe angles are not within the
specifications, inspect for underbody or rear suspension damage. Refer to BODY AND FRAME to
determine proper underbody alignment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Specifications
Front Steering Knuckle: Specifications
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut to Install Cotter Pin (Maximum):
First ......................................................................................................................................................
................................................ 65 N.m (50 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut to Install Cotter Pin (Minimum):
First ......................................................................................................................................................
................................................ 55 N.m (41 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Caliper to Knuckle Bolts ......................................................................................................................
................................................... 51 N.m (38 ft. lbs.) Hub and Bearing Assembly to Steering
Knuckle Bolts ........................................................................................................................... 95
N.m (70 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8226
Front Steering Knuckle: Testing and Inspection
1. Check the ball stud tightness in the steering knuckle boss.
1.1. Shake the wheel and feeling for movement of the stud end or castellated nut at the knuckle
boss. 1.2. Check the castellated nut fastener tightening specifications is an alternative method of
inspecting for wear. A loose nut can indicate a bent
stud or an opened-up hole in the knuckle boss.
2. Replace worn or damaged ball joints and knuckles.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Repair Instructions
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Repair Instructions
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
- J 28733-B Front Hub Spindle Remover
1. Remove the hub and bearing assembly (1). Refer to WHEEL BEARING AND WHEEL HUB
REPLACEMENT.
2. Remove the bolts (6) attaching the steering knuckle (3) to the strut (1).
3. Remove the cotter pin (1). 4. Remove the nut (4) from the ball joint (3). 5. Use the J 38892 in
order to separate the ball joint (3) from the knuckle (2). 6. Remove the knuckle (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Repair Instructions > Page 8229
1. Install the steering knuckle (2) to the ball joint (3).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the ball joint nut (4).
Tighten Tighten the ball joint nut to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.) (minimum) and 65 Nm (50 ft. lbs.)
(maximum).
3. Install the cotter pin (1).
4. Install the steering knuckle (3) into the strut (1). 5. Install the steering knuckle to strut assembly
bolts (6).
Tighten Tighten the nuts (2) to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Repair Instructions > Page 8230
6. Install the hub and bearing assembly (1) onto the knuckle (2).
7. Install the hub and bearing assembly bolts (1). Refer to WHEEL BEARING AND WHEEL HUB
REPLACEMENT. 8. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT
SPECIFICATIONS in WHEEL ALIGNMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Repair Instructions > Page 8231
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Strut and Knuckle Scribing
SCRIBING PROCEDURE
1. Scribe the knuckle along the lower outboard strut radius (shown by the dotted line). Use a sharp
tool.
2. Scribe the strut flange on the inboard side along the curve of the knuckle (shown by the dotted
line).
3. Make a scribe mark across the strut/knuckle interface. 4. Match the marks to the components
during reassembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Fluid >
Component Information > Specifications
Power Steering Fluid: Specifications
GM Power Steering Fluid (GM P/N 1052884 - 1 pint or 1050017 - 1 quart, or equivalent). In cold
climates use (GM P/N 12345866 - one pint, GM P/N 12345867 - one quart, or equivalent).
NOTE: The system should be flushed and bled prior to switching fluid types.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Specifications
Power Steering Line/Hose: Specifications
Power Steering Inlet Line Fittings
...........................................................................................................................................................
27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) Power Steering Outlet Hose Assembly Fittings
....................................................................................................................................... 27 N.m (20 ft.
lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Hose
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Inlet Hose
Power Steering Restrictor Valve And Hose Routing
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Hose > Page 8244
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Position rags under pump to absorb oil. 2. Siphon fluid from reservoir.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Hose > Page 8245
3. Gear inlet hose from pump. 4. Raise vehicle. 5. Gear inlet hose from steering gear.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Route new gear inlet hose to steering gear. 2. Gear inlet hose to steering gear. 3. Lower vehicle.
4. Install gear inlet hose to pump.
Tighten ^
Gear inlet hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
5. Fill and bleed power steering system.
^ Bleed air from system. Refer to BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Hose > Page 8246
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Outlet Hose
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Position rags under pump to absorb oil. 2. Siphon fluid from reservoir. 3. Gear outlet hose from
pump after sliding spring clamp back. 4. Line retainer (if applicable). 5. Gear inlet hose assembly
from rack and pinion steering gear. 6. Gear outlet hose assembly from rack and pinion steering
gear. 7. Gear outlet pipe and/or hose from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gear outlet hose assembly into position on vehicle. 2. Gear outlet hose assembly to rack and
pinion steering gear.
Tighten ^
Outlet hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Gear inlet hose assembly to rack and pinion steering gear.
Tighten ^
Hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
4. Line retainer (if applicable). 5. Gear outlet hose to pump and hose clamp.
Important: Fill with fluid and bleed air from power steering system. Refer to BLEEDING THE
POWER STEERING SYSTEM.
Inspect ^
For leaks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Motor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Power Steering Pump Replacement Tips
Power Steering Motor: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Power Steering Pump Replacement
Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-02-32-013B
Date: August 07, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips/Recommendations When Power Steering Pump Replacement is
Necessary
Models:
1997-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update the information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-02-32-013A (Section 02 - Steering).
A recently completed analysis of returned power steering (PS) pumps that had been replaced for
noise, no power assist, no or low pressure and leaking conditions has indicated a high number of
"No Trouble Found" results.
Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-004 indicates that when attempting to repair a power steering
concern, the steering system analyzer should be utilized to assist the technician in a successful
diagnosis. Note- Saturn ASTRA does not utilize the Power Steering System Analyzer.
In addition, extensive warranty analysis has shown that the following situations are all significant
root causes of PS pump failures:
- Improper pulley installation
- Re-using the O-rings
- Using fluid other than the OE-specified steering fluid
- Failure to flush the PS system
In order to help improve customer satisfaction and reduce comebacks, GM recommends the
following tips for replacing a PS pump:
1. Low or no pressure from the PS pump may be the results of dirty or contaminated fluid, which
could cause the pressure relief valve to stop
functioning. Using the proper tools, flush and bleed the PS system. Any residual contaminants will
result in pump failure.
2. When removing the pulley, use the proper special tools. Because the pulley alignment is critical,
distorting the pulley may damage bearings on the
new PS pump.
Note Some new PS pumps may not include a new O-ring. Please refer to the appropriate Parts
Catalog. Saturn retailers should refer to the appropriate model year Parts & Illustration Catalog for
the vehicle.
3. Be sure to use only the new O-rings included with the PS pump. The new reservoir O-ring must
be lubricated with OE-specific PS fluid prior to
installation. Also make sure that the control valve O-ring is in its exact groove position and is NOT
covering the pressure bypass hole.
4. Bleed the PS system according to the procedures/recommendations in SI.
Following these procedures and using the correct tools and fluids should help ensure that the new
PS pump operates properly. Skipping steps may cost you time and trouble later.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Power
Steering Pump Seal > Component Information > Service and Repair
Power Steering Pump Seal: Service and Repair
Lip seals, which seal rotating shafts, require special treatment. This type of seal is used on the
steering gear at the pinion shaft and on the drive shaft of the pump. When a leak occurs in this
area, always replace the seal after inspecting and thoroughly cleaning the sealing surface. Replace
the shaft only if very severe pitting is found. If the corrosion in the lip seal contact zone is slight,
clean the surface of the shaft with crocus cloth. Replace the shaft only if the leakage cannot be
stopped by smoothing with crocus cloth first.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming
> System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. 2. Turn the
ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Remove the key from the ignition switch. 4. Remove the left
IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
IMPORTANT: With the AIR BAG Fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, The
AIR BAG warning lamp illuminates. This is normal operation, and does not indicate an SIR system
malfunction.
Description
5. Remove the AIR BAG Fuse from the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console.
6. Remove the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 7. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the driver yellow 2-way
connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming
> System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 8260
8. Disconnect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
9. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
10. Disconnect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering
column.
Enabling the SIR System
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Connect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming
> System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 8261
3. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
4. Connect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
5. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the driver yellow 2-way connector located
near the base of the steering column. 6. Install the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming
> System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 8262
Description
7. Install the AIR BAG fuse to the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 8. Install the left IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 9. Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
9.1. The AIR BAG warning lamp will flash seven times.
9.2. The AIR BAG warning lamp will then turn OFF.
10. Perform the SIR Diagnostic System Check if the AIR BAG warning lamp does not operate as
described.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming
> System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 8263
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the SIR system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) maintains a reserve energy supply.
The reserve energy supply provides deployment power for the air bags. Deployment power is
available for as much as 10 minutes after disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following
methods:
^ You turn OFF the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the SDM.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR system prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply power.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Key Reminder Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection
For diagnosis of the system, Refer to ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation
Technical Service Bulletin # 02049 Date: 030101
Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation
File In Section: Product Recalls
Bulletin No.: 02049
Date: January, 2003
PRODUCT SAFETY RECALL
SUBJECT: 02049 - POWER STEERING GEAR LOWER PINION BEARING SEPARATION
MODELS: 1996-1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER 1996 CHEVROLET LUMINA APV 1997-1998
CHEVROLET VENTURE 1996-1998 PONTIAC SUNFIRE, TRANS SPORT 1997-1998 PONTIAC
GRAND PRIX 1996-1998 OLDSMOBILE SILHOUETTE
CONDITION
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1996-1998 Chevrolet Cavalier; 1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Venture;
1996-1998 Pontiac Sunfire, Trans Sport; 1997-1998 Pontiac Grand Prix; and 1996-1998
Oldsmobile Silhouette vehicles. Some of these vehicles have a condition where the lower pinion
bearing in the power steering gear may separate. Most reports indicate the driver experienced an
intermittent loss of power steering assist when making left turns, usually at low speeds. Power
assist is normal in right hand turns. When trying to turn left, some drivers could experience higher
resistance or, in a few cases, assist towards the right. If this happens while the vehicle is moving, a
crash could result.
CORRECTION
Dealers are to inspect the condition of the lower pinion bearing and replace the lower pinion
bearing, or in a few cases, replace the rack and pinion steering gear assembly.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8275
Involved are certain 1996-1998 Chevrolet Cavalier; 1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV; 1997-1998
Chevrolet Venture; 1996-1998 Pontiac Sunfire, Trans Sport; 1997-1998 Grand Prix; and 1996-1998
Oldsmobile Silhouette vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
IMPORTANT:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) or GM
Access Screen (Canada only) or DCS Screen 445 (IPC only) before beginning recall repairs. [Not
all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listings
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the recall bulletin. The customer
name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this recall. Any
dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved vehicles currently
assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly you are urged to limit the use of
this listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this recall.
PARTS INFORMATION
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important:
An initial supply of parts required to complete this program will be pre-shipped to involved dealers
of record. This pre-shipment is scheduled to begin the week of January 13, 2003. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8276
CSO = Customer Special Order.
SPECIAL TOOL
Beginning the week of December 23, 2002, each dealer will be shipped a Power Steering Pinion
Bearing Replacer, J44714-A, for use in this recall. This tool is being furnished at no charge.
Additional tools, if required, may be purchased by contacting SPX Kent-Moore at
1-800-GM-TOOLS (1-800-468-6657).
RECALL IDENTIFICATION LABEL - For US and IPC
Place a Recall Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the instructions
outlined in this Product Recall Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the recall number
and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the recall service. This information may
be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Recall Identification Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area
that will be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Recall Identification Label, be
sure to pull the tab to allow adhesion of the clear protective covering. Additional Recall
Identification Labels for US dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by either
ordering on the web from DWD Store, gm-dealerworld.com, or calling 1-866-700-0001
(Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. EST). Request Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Additional Recall Identification Labels for IPC dealers can be obtained from your Regional
Marketing Office.
RECALL IDENTIFICATION LABEL - For CANADA
Place a Recall Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the instructions
outlined in this Product Recall Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the recall number
and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the recall service. This information may
be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Recall Identification Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area
that will be visible to people servicing the the vehicle. Additional Recall Identification Labels for
Canadian dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m.
to 5:00 p.m. EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to replace the power steering gear
lower pinion bearing or steering gear due to lower pinion bearing separation are to be submitted by
January 31, 2004 (this time limit may be longer depending on the law in your
state/province/country).
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following.
- Proof of ownership at time of repair.
- Original paid receipt confirming the amount of unreimbursed repair expense(s), a description of
the repair, and the person or entity performing
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8277
the repair.
Customers from the States of California, Connecticut, Virginia, and Wisconsin must submit
requests for reimbursement directly to (Divisions) per instructions in the owner letter.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
IMPORTANT:
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, section 1.6.2, for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement verification.
CLAIM INFORMATION
Submit a Product Recall Claim with the information shown.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION - For US and CANADA
Customers will be notified of this recall on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of customer
letter shown in this bulletin).
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION - For IPC
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8278
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners outside these areas, dealers should notify
customers using the sample letter.
DEALER RECALL RESPONSIBILITY - For US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle that is subject to a
recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
DEALER RECALL RESPONSIBILITY - ALL
All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this recall must be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin before customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers, a copy of the customer
letter is shown in this bulletin. Recall follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since the
customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, you must take the steps necessary to be sure the recall
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
Disclaimer
Information
Important
If a vehicle has had the power steering gear lower pinion bearing or steering gear replaced prior to
this recall, the applicable service procedures shown will still need to be performed on the vehicle.
1996 Lumina APV, Trans Sport, and Silhouette
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection (Includes Steering Gear Replacement, If Required)
Because of limited access in this vehicle, the pinion bearing can only be inspected after the
steering gear has been removed from the vehicle. For additional information on steering gear
removal and bleeding the system, see the steering section of the appropriate service manual.
Important
Tool J-44714-A is required to perform this service procedure.
1. From inside the vehicle, remove the driver's side insulator panel from under the instrument panel
(IP).
2. Disconnect the intermediate steering shaft from the steering column.
3. Open the hood.
4. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
5. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
6. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both outer tie rod ends.
7. Using J-24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate both tie rod ends from the
steering knuckles.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8279
8. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
9. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
10. Remove the bolts attaching the heat shield to the steering gear and remove the shield.
11. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
12. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle
13. Separate the intermediate steering shaft cover (boot) from the steering gear.
14. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
15. On a suitable work surface, remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and
inspect for loose ball bearings, see Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to step 31 and replace the
complete steering gear assembly.
16. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2), see Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
17. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft, see Figure
1. Do not reuse the nut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8280
18. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1), see Figure 3.
19. Carefully insert the legs (1) of pinion bearing remover J-44714-1 (included in J-44714-A)
between the balls in the lower pinion bearing, see Figure 4.
20. Assemble the center bolt (2) into the forcing screw (1) of the tool, see Figure 5. Back the center
bolt at least 25 mm (1 in) inside the forcing screw.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8281
21. Assemble the forcing screw (2) inside the puller legs (1), see Figure 6. Finger tighten the
forcing screw to push the puller legs against the bearing.
22. Using a 24 mm wrench to hold the forcing screw, use a 17 mm socket to tighten the center bolt
until the bearing is removed from the gear housing, see Figure 7. Do not reuse the bearing.
23. Apply a small quantity of lubrication inside the housing bore where the new bearing will be
installed.
24. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
25. Place the bearing installer (1) J-44714-2 (included in J-44714-A) over the pinion thread, see
Figure 8. Lightly tap with a hammer until the bearing is seated in the housing.
26. Install a new snap ring. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring must be on
the right side as shown in Figure 9.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8282
27. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft, see Figure 10.
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft)
28. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
29. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), then
back off 40 to 50 degrees (4), see Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
30. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
31. If installing a new steering gear, transfer the intermediate steering shaft from the old steering
gear to the new steering gear. Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
32. If installing a new steering gear, remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
33. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
34. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear and tighten the adjuster nuts to 30 Nm (22 lb ft)
plus 120 degrees (or 2 flats of the nut).
35. Install the steering gear to the engine cradle in the vehicle.
36. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the cradle. Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
37. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
38. Install the heat shield to the steering gear and install the attaching bolts. Tighten to 14 Nm (124
lb in).
39. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts. Tighten to 165 Nm (122
lb ft).
40. Reposition the intermediate steering shaft cover (boot) and attach to the steering gear.
41. Connect the outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts to
10 Nm (88 lb in) and then tighten the nuts an additional 180 degrees (1/2 turn). If necessary, rotate
(tighten) the nuts to align the hole and install the cotter pins.
42. Install both wheel and tire assemblies. Tighten the lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
43. Lower the vehicle
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8283
44. From inside the vehicle, connect the intermediate shaft to the steering column. Tighten the bolt
to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
45. Install the driver's side insulator panel under the IP.
46. Add power steering fluid as necessary and bleed the system
47. Check alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
48. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Important
For U.S. and Canada: All replaced steering gears are to be held until a return request is received
from the GM Warranty Parts Center (WPC). For additional information, refer to service bulletin #
99-00-89-19B, issued February 2002. DO NOT RETURN REPLACED STEERING GEARS TO
GMSPO.
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
Tool J-44714-A is required to perform this service procedure.
1. From inside the vehicle, remove the driver's side insulator panel from under the instrument panel
(IP).
2. Disconnect the intermediate steering shaft from the steering column.
3. Open the hood.
4. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
5. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
6. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access steering gear.
7. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
8. Reposition the stabilizer bar to improve access to the steering gear.
9. Remove the bolts attaching the heat shield to the steering gear and remove the shield.
10. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
11. Remove the steering gear from the cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access the
lower pinion shaft dust cap.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
12. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings,
see Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this recall
bulletin titled "Steering Gear Replacement" for the described vehicles.
13. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2), see Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
14. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft, see Figure
1. Do not reuse the nut.
15. Remove the lower remaining snap ring (1), see Figure 3.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8284
16. Carefully insert the legs (1) of pinion bearing remover J-44714-1 (included in J-44714-A)
between the balls in the lower pinion bearing, see Figure 4.
17. Assemble the center bolt (2) into the forcing screw (1) of the tool, see Figure 5. Back the center
bolt at least 25 mm (1 in) inside the forcing screw.
18. Assemble the forcing screw (2) inside the puller legs (1), see Figure 6 Finger tighten the forcing
screw to push the puller legs against the bearing.
19. Using a 24 mm wrench to hold the forcing screw, use a 17 mm socket to tighten the center bolt
until the bearing is removed from the gear housing, see Figure 7. Do not reuse the bearing.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that no parts of the old bearing remain.
20. Apply a small quantity of lubrication inside the housing bore where the new bearing will be
installed.
21. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
22. Place the bearing installer (1) J-44714-2 (included in J-44714-A) over the pinion thread, see
Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap with a hammer until
the bearing is seated in the housing.
23. Install a new snap ring, Figure 9. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring
must be on the right side as shown.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
24. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft, see Figure 10.
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
25. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
26. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), then
back off 40 to 50 degrees (4), see Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
27. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
28. Reinstall the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
29. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten the bolts to 80
Nm (59 lb ft).
30. Install the heat shield to the steering gear and install the attaching bolts. Tighten to 14 Nm (124
lb in).
31. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
32. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arms. Tighten the bolts to 23
Nm (17 lb ft).
33. Raise the rear of the engine cradle while aligning the intermediate steering shaft.
34. Install the two rear engine cradle attaching bolts. Tighten to 165 Nm (122 lb ft).
35. Lower the vehicle
36. From inside the vehicle, connect the intermediate shaft to the steering column. Tighten the bolt
to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
37. Install the driver's side insulator panel under the IP.
38. Check the power steering fluid and add if necessary.
39. Check alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
40. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required
For additional information on steering gear removal, see the steering section in the appropriate
service manual.
1. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8285
2. Loosen the outer tie rod adjuster nuts.
3. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
4. Remove the nuts that attach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckle.
5. Using J-24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate both tie rod ends from the
steering knuckles.
6. Separate the intermediate steering shaft cover (boot) from the steering gear.
7. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
8. Transfer the intermediate steering shaft from the old steering gear to the new steering gear.
Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
9. Remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
10. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
11. Install the tie rod end on the new steering gear and tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
12. Install the new steering gear in the vehicle.
13. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
14. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
15. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten the bolts to 80
Nm (59 lb ft).
16. Install the heat shield to the steering gear and install the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 14
Nm (124 lb in).
17. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
18. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arm. Tighten the bolts to 23
Nm (17 lb ft).
19. Raise the rear of the engine cradle while aligning the intermediate steering shaft.
20. Install the two rear engine cradle attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 165 Nm (122 lb ft).
21. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Install the nuts and tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft),
plus 120 degrees (or 2 flats of the nut).
22. Install both wheel and tire assemblies.
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. From inside the vehicle, connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering column. Tighten
the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
25. Install the driver's side insulator panel under the IP.
26. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
27. Check alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
28. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Important
For U.S. and Canada: All replaced steering gears are to be held until a return request is received
from the GM Warranty Parts Center (WPC). For additional information, refer to service bulletin #
99-00-89-19B, issued February 2002. DO NOT RETURN REPLACED STEERING GEARS TO
GMSPO.
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8286
Tool J-44714-A is required to perform this service procedure.
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
3. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings,
see Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this recall
bulletin titled "Steering Gear Replacement" for the described vehicles.
4. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
5. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
6. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
7. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
8. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
9. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
10. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the adjuster plug lock nut and the adjuster plug. Do not remove the plug.
11. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2), see Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
12. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft, see Figure
1. Do not reuse the nut.
13. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1), Figure 3.
Important
Placement of a block of wood between the steering gear housing and the transmission case will
help to support the steering gear in the next step.
14. Carefully insert the legs (1) of pinion bearing remover J-44714-1 (included in J-44714-A)
between the balls in the lower pinion bearing, see Figure 4.
15. Assemble the center bolt (2) into the forcing screw (1) of the tool, see Figure 5. Back the center
bolt at least 25 mm (1 in) inside the forcing screw.
16. Assemble the forcing screw (2) inside the puller legs (1), see Figure 6. Finger tighten the
forcing screw to push the puller legs against the bearing.
17. Using a 24 mm wrench to hold the forcing screw, use a 17 mm socket to tighten the center bolt
until the bearing is removed from the gear housing, see Figure 7. Do not reuse the bearing.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that no parts of the old bearing remain.
18. Apply a small quantity of lubrication inside the housing bore where the new bearing will be
installed.
19. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
20. Place the bearing installer (1) J-44714-2 (included in J-44714-A) over the pinion thread, see
Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap with a hammer until
the bearing is seated in the housing.
21. Install a new snap ring, see Figure 9. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring
must be on the right side as shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8287
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
22. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft, see Figure 10.
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
23. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
24. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), then
back off 40 to 50 degrees (4), Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion preload
torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
25. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
26. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
27. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb
ft).
28. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts. Tighten to 180 Nm (133
lb ft).
29. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt. Tighten the bolt
to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
30. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
31. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arm. Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb
ft).
32. Lower the vehicle.
33. Check the power steering fluid and add if necessary.
34. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required
For additional information on steering gear removal, see the steering section in the appropriate
service manual.
1. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
2. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
3. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
4. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
5. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
6. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
7. Loosen the outer tie rod end adjuster nuts.
8. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
9. Remove the nuts that attach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.
10. Using J-24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate the tie rod ends from the
knuckles.
11. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
12. On GT and GTP models, disconnect the electrical connector from the steering gear.
13. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
14. Remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
15. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
16. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear and tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb
ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8288
17. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
18. On GT and GTP models, connect the electrical connector for the steering gear.
19. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb
ft).
20. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
21. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Install the retaining nuts and tighten to 30 Nm
(22 lb ft), plus 120 degrees (or 2 flats of the nut).
22. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the two rear attaching bolts. Tighten to 180 Nm
(133 lb ft).
23. Install the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt. Tighten to 48 Nm
(35 lb ft).
24. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
25. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arms. Tighten to 23 Nm (17
lb ft).
26. Install both wheel and tire assemblies. Tighten the lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
27. Lower the vehicle.
28. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
29. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
30. Install the GM Recall Identification Label Important
For U.S. and Canada: All replaced steering gears are to be held until a return request is received
from the GM Warranty Parts Center (WPC). For additional information, refer to service bulletin #
99-00-89-19B, issued February 2002. DO NOT RETURN REPLACED STEERING GEARS TO
GMSPO.
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
Tool J-44714-A is required to perform this service procedure.
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
3. Remove the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine frame (cradle).
4. Release the brake pipe from the retainers at three locations on the engine cradle.
5. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the lower pinion shaft dust cap.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
6. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings,
see Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this recall
bulletin titled "Steering Gear Replacement" for the described vehicle.
7. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2), see Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8289
8. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft, see Figure 1.
Do not reuse the nut.
9. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1), see Figure 3.
10. Carefully insert the legs (1) of pinion bearing remover J-44714-1 (included in J-44714-A)
between the balls in the lower pinion bearing, see Figure 4.
11. Assemble the center bolt (2) into the forcing screw (1) of the tool, see Figure 5. Back the center
bolt at least 25 mm (1 in) inside the forcing screw.
12. Assemble the forcing screw (2) inside the puller legs (1), see Figure 6. Finger tighten the
forcing screw to push the puller legs against the bearing.
13. Using a 24 mm wrench to hold the forcing screw, use a 17 mm socket to tighten the center bolt
until the bearing is removed from the gear housing, see Figure 7. Do not reuse the bearing.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that no parts of the old bearing remain.
14. Apply a small quantity of lubrication inside the housing bore where the new bearing will be
installed.
15. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
16. Place the bearing installer (1) JA4714-2 (included in J-44714-A) over the pinion thread, see
Figure 8. If necessary, use extension JA4714-3 included with the installer. Lightly tap with a
hammer until the bearing is seated in the housing.
17. Install a new snap ring, see Figure 9. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring
must be on the right side as shown.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
18. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft, see Figure 10.
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
19. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
20. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), then
back off 40 to 50 degrees (4), see Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
21. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
22. Reinstall the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
23. Reattach the brake pipe to the retainers on the engine cradle.
24. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the cradle. Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb ft).
25. Lower the vehicle.
26. Check the power steering fluid level and add if necessary.
27. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required
1. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
2. Remove the nuts that attach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckle.
3. Using J-24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate both tie rod ends from the
steering knuckles.
4. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the six rear attaching bolts.
5. Loosen the front cradle to body attaching bolts. Do not remove the bolts.
6. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
7. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8290
8. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
9. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
10. If necessary, transfer the mounting grommet(s) and bushing(s) from the old steering gear to the
new steering gear.
Note:
The labor time allowance includes the time needed for transferring these parts.
11. Remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
12. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
13. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear and tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb
ft).
14. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
15. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb
ft).
16. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
17. Raise the rear of the engine cradle while aligning the intermediate steering shaft.
18. Install the six rear engine cradle bolts. Tighten to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
19. Tighten the front engine cradle to body bolts to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
20. Install the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt. Tighten the bolt to
22 Nm (16 lb ft).
21. Reattach the brake pipe to the retainers on the engine cradle.
22. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Install the retaining nuts and tighten to 45 Nm
(33 lb ft).
23. Install both wheel and tire assemblies. Tighten the lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
24. Lower the vehicle
25. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
26. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
27. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Important
For U.S. and Canada: All replaced steering gears are to be held until a return request is received
from the GM Warranty Parts Center (WPC). For additional information, refer to service bulletin #
99-00-89-19B, issued February 2002. DO NOT RETURN REPLACED STEERING GEARS TO
GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8291
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Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > NHTSA02V286000 > Nov > 02 > Recall 02V286000: Steering Rack Defect
Steering Gear: Recalls Recall 02V286000: Steering Rack Defect
DEFECT: Certain passenger vehicles and minivans have lower pinion bearings in the power
steering rack and pinion assembly in which the retainer tabs were not crimped properly. These and
some other retainers could fail and permit the ball bearings to escape. If this occurs, the pinion
shaft can be forced upward during left turns and back down as the steering wheel is moved back
and to the right. If the pinion shaft moves further, the driver will need to exert more effort to turn the
steering wheel, similar to a vehicle without power assisted steering. If the pinion shaft moves even
further, the driver will require much higher effort to turn left and may not be able to turn the wheel
as much as intended. With the maximum pinion shaft movement, which requires internal gear
component damage, the driver can encounter high resistance to turning left, followed by
unintended power assist to the right. In any of these conditions, a crash could occur.
REMEDY: Dealers will install a new lower pinion bearing unless inspection of the existing bearing
indicates that replacement of the gear assembly is necessary. The manufacturer has reported that
owner notification began Jan. 17, 2003. Owners should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020,
Pontiac at 1-8000-762-2737, or Oldsmobile at 1-800-442-6537.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation
Technical Service Bulletin # 02049 Date: 030101
Recall - Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation
File In Section: Product Recalls
Bulletin No.: 02049
Date: January, 2003
PRODUCT SAFETY RECALL
SUBJECT: 02049 - POWER STEERING GEAR LOWER PINION BEARING SEPARATION
MODELS: 1996-1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER 1996 CHEVROLET LUMINA APV 1997-1998
CHEVROLET VENTURE 1996-1998 PONTIAC SUNFIRE, TRANS SPORT 1997-1998 PONTIAC
GRAND PRIX 1996-1998 OLDSMOBILE SILHOUETTE
CONDITION
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1996-1998 Chevrolet Cavalier; 1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Venture;
1996-1998 Pontiac Sunfire, Trans Sport; 1997-1998 Pontiac Grand Prix; and 1996-1998
Oldsmobile Silhouette vehicles. Some of these vehicles have a condition where the lower pinion
bearing in the power steering gear may separate. Most reports indicate the driver experienced an
intermittent loss of power steering assist when making left turns, usually at low speeds. Power
assist is normal in right hand turns. When trying to turn left, some drivers could experience higher
resistance or, in a few cases, assist towards the right. If this happens while the vehicle is moving, a
crash could result.
CORRECTION
Dealers are to inspect the condition of the lower pinion bearing and replace the lower pinion
bearing, or in a few cases, replace the rack and pinion steering gear assembly.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8302
Involved are certain 1996-1998 Chevrolet Cavalier; 1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV; 1997-1998
Chevrolet Venture; 1996-1998 Pontiac Sunfire, Trans Sport; 1997-1998 Grand Prix; and 1996-1998
Oldsmobile Silhouette vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
IMPORTANT:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) or GM
Access Screen (Canada only) or DCS Screen 445 (IPC only) before beginning recall repairs. [Not
all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listings
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the recall bulletin. The customer
name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this recall. Any
dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved vehicles currently
assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly you are urged to limit the use of
this listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this recall.
PARTS INFORMATION
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important:
An initial supply of parts required to complete this program will be pre-shipped to involved dealers
of record. This pre-shipment is scheduled to begin the week of January 13, 2003. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealer's open parts account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8303
CSO = Customer Special Order.
SPECIAL TOOL
Beginning the week of December 23, 2002, each dealer will be shipped a Power Steering Pinion
Bearing Replacer, J44714-A, for use in this recall. This tool is being furnished at no charge.
Additional tools, if required, may be purchased by contacting SPX Kent-Moore at
1-800-GM-TOOLS (1-800-468-6657).
RECALL IDENTIFICATION LABEL - For US and IPC
Place a Recall Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the instructions
outlined in this Product Recall Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the recall number
and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the recall service. This information may
be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Recall Identification Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area
that will be visible to people servicing the vehicle. When installing the Recall Identification Label, be
sure to pull the tab to allow adhesion of the clear protective covering. Additional Recall
Identification Labels for US dealers can be obtained from Dealer Support Materials by either
ordering on the web from DWD Store, gm-dealerworld.com, or calling 1-866-700-0001
(Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. EST). Request Item Number S-1015 when ordering.
Additional Recall Identification Labels for IPC dealers can be obtained from your Regional
Marketing Office.
RECALL IDENTIFICATION LABEL - For CANADA
Place a Recall Identification Label on each vehicle corrected in accordance with the instructions
outlined in this Product Recall Bulletin. Each label provides a space to include the recall number
and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the recall service. This information may
be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Put the Recall Identification Label on a clean and dry surface of the radiator core support in an area
that will be visible to people servicing the the vehicle. Additional Recall Identification Labels for
Canadian dealers can be obtained from DGN by calling 1-800-668-5539 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m.
to 5:00 p.m. EST). Ask for Item Number GMP 91 when ordering.
CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to replace the power steering gear
lower pinion bearing or steering gear due to lower pinion bearing separation are to be submitted by
January 31, 2004 (this time limit may be longer depending on the law in your
state/province/country).
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following.
- Proof of ownership at time of repair.
- Original paid receipt confirming the amount of unreimbursed repair expense(s), a description of
the repair, and the person or entity performing
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8304
the repair.
Customers from the States of California, Connecticut, Virginia, and Wisconsin must submit
requests for reimbursement directly to (Divisions) per instructions in the owner letter.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
IMPORTANT:
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, section 1.6.2, for specific procedures
regarding customer reimbursement verification.
CLAIM INFORMATION
Submit a Product Recall Claim with the information shown.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION - For US and CANADA
Customers will be notified of this recall on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of customer
letter shown in this bulletin).
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION - For IPC
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8305
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners outside these areas, dealers should notify
customers using the sample letter.
DEALER RECALL RESPONSIBILITY - For US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle that is subject to a
recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
DEALER RECALL RESPONSIBILITY - ALL
All unsold new vehicles in dealers' possession and subject to this recall must be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin before customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers, a copy of the customer
letter is shown in this bulletin. Recall follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since the
customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, you must take the steps necessary to be sure the recall
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
Disclaimer
Information
Important
If a vehicle has had the power steering gear lower pinion bearing or steering gear replaced prior to
this recall, the applicable service procedures shown will still need to be performed on the vehicle.
1996 Lumina APV, Trans Sport, and Silhouette
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection (Includes Steering Gear Replacement, If Required)
Because of limited access in this vehicle, the pinion bearing can only be inspected after the
steering gear has been removed from the vehicle. For additional information on steering gear
removal and bleeding the system, see the steering section of the appropriate service manual.
Important
Tool J-44714-A is required to perform this service procedure.
1. From inside the vehicle, remove the driver's side insulator panel from under the instrument panel
(IP).
2. Disconnect the intermediate steering shaft from the steering column.
3. Open the hood.
4. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
5. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
6. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both outer tie rod ends.
7. Using J-24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate both tie rod ends from the
steering knuckles.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8306
8. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
9. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
10. Remove the bolts attaching the heat shield to the steering gear and remove the shield.
11. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
12. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle
13. Separate the intermediate steering shaft cover (boot) from the steering gear.
14. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
15. On a suitable work surface, remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and
inspect for loose ball bearings, see Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to step 31 and replace the
complete steering gear assembly.
16. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2), see Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
17. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft, see Figure
1. Do not reuse the nut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8307
18. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1), see Figure 3.
19. Carefully insert the legs (1) of pinion bearing remover J-44714-1 (included in J-44714-A)
between the balls in the lower pinion bearing, see Figure 4.
20. Assemble the center bolt (2) into the forcing screw (1) of the tool, see Figure 5. Back the center
bolt at least 25 mm (1 in) inside the forcing screw.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8308
21. Assemble the forcing screw (2) inside the puller legs (1), see Figure 6. Finger tighten the
forcing screw to push the puller legs against the bearing.
22. Using a 24 mm wrench to hold the forcing screw, use a 17 mm socket to tighten the center bolt
until the bearing is removed from the gear housing, see Figure 7. Do not reuse the bearing.
23. Apply a small quantity of lubrication inside the housing bore where the new bearing will be
installed.
24. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
25. Place the bearing installer (1) J-44714-2 (included in J-44714-A) over the pinion thread, see
Figure 8. Lightly tap with a hammer until the bearing is seated in the housing.
26. Install a new snap ring. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring must be on
the right side as shown in Figure 9.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8309
27. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft, see Figure 10.
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft)
28. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
29. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), then
back off 40 to 50 degrees (4), see Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
30. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
31. If installing a new steering gear, transfer the intermediate steering shaft from the old steering
gear to the new steering gear. Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
32. If installing a new steering gear, remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
33. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
34. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear and tighten the adjuster nuts to 30 Nm (22 lb ft)
plus 120 degrees (or 2 flats of the nut).
35. Install the steering gear to the engine cradle in the vehicle.
36. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the cradle. Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
37. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
38. Install the heat shield to the steering gear and install the attaching bolts. Tighten to 14 Nm (124
lb in).
39. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts. Tighten to 165 Nm (122
lb ft).
40. Reposition the intermediate steering shaft cover (boot) and attach to the steering gear.
41. Connect the outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts to
10 Nm (88 lb in) and then tighten the nuts an additional 180 degrees (1/2 turn). If necessary, rotate
(tighten) the nuts to align the hole and install the cotter pins.
42. Install both wheel and tire assemblies. Tighten the lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
43. Lower the vehicle
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8310
44. From inside the vehicle, connect the intermediate shaft to the steering column. Tighten the bolt
to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
45. Install the driver's side insulator panel under the IP.
46. Add power steering fluid as necessary and bleed the system
47. Check alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
48. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Important
For U.S. and Canada: All replaced steering gears are to be held until a return request is received
from the GM Warranty Parts Center (WPC). For additional information, refer to service bulletin #
99-00-89-19B, issued February 2002. DO NOT RETURN REPLACED STEERING GEARS TO
GMSPO.
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
Tool J-44714-A is required to perform this service procedure.
1. From inside the vehicle, remove the driver's side insulator panel from under the instrument panel
(IP).
2. Disconnect the intermediate steering shaft from the steering column.
3. Open the hood.
4. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
5. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
6. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access steering gear.
7. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
8. Reposition the stabilizer bar to improve access to the steering gear.
9. Remove the bolts attaching the heat shield to the steering gear and remove the shield.
10. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
11. Remove the steering gear from the cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access the
lower pinion shaft dust cap.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
12. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings,
see Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this recall
bulletin titled "Steering Gear Replacement" for the described vehicles.
13. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2), see Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
14. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft, see Figure
1. Do not reuse the nut.
15. Remove the lower remaining snap ring (1), see Figure 3.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8311
16. Carefully insert the legs (1) of pinion bearing remover J-44714-1 (included in J-44714-A)
between the balls in the lower pinion bearing, see Figure 4.
17. Assemble the center bolt (2) into the forcing screw (1) of the tool, see Figure 5. Back the center
bolt at least 25 mm (1 in) inside the forcing screw.
18. Assemble the forcing screw (2) inside the puller legs (1), see Figure 6 Finger tighten the forcing
screw to push the puller legs against the bearing.
19. Using a 24 mm wrench to hold the forcing screw, use a 17 mm socket to tighten the center bolt
until the bearing is removed from the gear housing, see Figure 7. Do not reuse the bearing.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that no parts of the old bearing remain.
20. Apply a small quantity of lubrication inside the housing bore where the new bearing will be
installed.
21. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
22. Place the bearing installer (1) J-44714-2 (included in J-44714-A) over the pinion thread, see
Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap with a hammer until
the bearing is seated in the housing.
23. Install a new snap ring, Figure 9. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring
must be on the right side as shown.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
24. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft, see Figure 10.
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
25. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
26. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), then
back off 40 to 50 degrees (4), see Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
27. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
28. Reinstall the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
29. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten the bolts to 80
Nm (59 lb ft).
30. Install the heat shield to the steering gear and install the attaching bolts. Tighten to 14 Nm (124
lb in).
31. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
32. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arms. Tighten the bolts to 23
Nm (17 lb ft).
33. Raise the rear of the engine cradle while aligning the intermediate steering shaft.
34. Install the two rear engine cradle attaching bolts. Tighten to 165 Nm (122 lb ft).
35. Lower the vehicle
36. From inside the vehicle, connect the intermediate shaft to the steering column. Tighten the bolt
to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
37. Install the driver's side insulator panel under the IP.
38. Check the power steering fluid and add if necessary.
39. Check alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
40. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required
For additional information on steering gear removal, see the steering section in the appropriate
service manual.
1. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
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Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8312
2. Loosen the outer tie rod adjuster nuts.
3. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
4. Remove the nuts that attach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckle.
5. Using J-24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate both tie rod ends from the
steering knuckles.
6. Separate the intermediate steering shaft cover (boot) from the steering gear.
7. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
8. Transfer the intermediate steering shaft from the old steering gear to the new steering gear.
Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
9. Remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
10. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
11. Install the tie rod end on the new steering gear and tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
12. Install the new steering gear in the vehicle.
13. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
14. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
15. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten the bolts to 80
Nm (59 lb ft).
16. Install the heat shield to the steering gear and install the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 14
Nm (124 lb in).
17. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
18. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arm. Tighten the bolts to 23
Nm (17 lb ft).
19. Raise the rear of the engine cradle while aligning the intermediate steering shaft.
20. Install the two rear engine cradle attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 165 Nm (122 lb ft).
21. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Install the nuts and tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft),
plus 120 degrees (or 2 flats of the nut).
22. Install both wheel and tire assemblies.
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. From inside the vehicle, connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering column. Tighten
the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
25. Install the driver's side insulator panel under the IP.
26. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
27. Check alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
28. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Important
For U.S. and Canada: All replaced steering gears are to be held until a return request is received
from the GM Warranty Parts Center (WPC). For additional information, refer to service bulletin #
99-00-89-19B, issued February 2002. DO NOT RETURN REPLACED STEERING GEARS TO
GMSPO.
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8313
Tool J-44714-A is required to perform this service procedure.
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
3. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings,
see Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this recall
bulletin titled "Steering Gear Replacement" for the described vehicles.
4. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
5. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
6. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
7. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
8. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
9. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
10. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the adjuster plug lock nut and the adjuster plug. Do not remove the plug.
11. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2), see Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
12. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft, see Figure
1. Do not reuse the nut.
13. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1), Figure 3.
Important
Placement of a block of wood between the steering gear housing and the transmission case will
help to support the steering gear in the next step.
14. Carefully insert the legs (1) of pinion bearing remover J-44714-1 (included in J-44714-A)
between the balls in the lower pinion bearing, see Figure 4.
15. Assemble the center bolt (2) into the forcing screw (1) of the tool, see Figure 5. Back the center
bolt at least 25 mm (1 in) inside the forcing screw.
16. Assemble the forcing screw (2) inside the puller legs (1), see Figure 6. Finger tighten the
forcing screw to push the puller legs against the bearing.
17. Using a 24 mm wrench to hold the forcing screw, use a 17 mm socket to tighten the center bolt
until the bearing is removed from the gear housing, see Figure 7. Do not reuse the bearing.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that no parts of the old bearing remain.
18. Apply a small quantity of lubrication inside the housing bore where the new bearing will be
installed.
19. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
20. Place the bearing installer (1) J-44714-2 (included in J-44714-A) over the pinion thread, see
Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap with a hammer until
the bearing is seated in the housing.
21. Install a new snap ring, see Figure 9. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring
must be on the right side as shown.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8314
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
22. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft, see Figure 10.
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
23. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
24. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), then
back off 40 to 50 degrees (4), Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion preload
torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
25. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
26. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
27. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb
ft).
28. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts. Tighten to 180 Nm (133
lb ft).
29. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt. Tighten the bolt
to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
30. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
31. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arm. Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb
ft).
32. Lower the vehicle.
33. Check the power steering fluid and add if necessary.
34. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required
For additional information on steering gear removal, see the steering section in the appropriate
service manual.
1. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
2. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
3. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
4. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
5. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
6. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
7. Loosen the outer tie rod end adjuster nuts.
8. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
9. Remove the nuts that attach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.
10. Using J-24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate the tie rod ends from the
knuckles.
11. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
12. On GT and GTP models, disconnect the electrical connector from the steering gear.
13. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
14. Remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
15. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
16. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear and tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb
ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8315
17. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
18. On GT and GTP models, connect the electrical connector for the steering gear.
19. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb
ft).
20. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
21. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Install the retaining nuts and tighten to 30 Nm
(22 lb ft), plus 120 degrees (or 2 flats of the nut).
22. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the two rear attaching bolts. Tighten to 180 Nm
(133 lb ft).
23. Install the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt. Tighten to 48 Nm
(35 lb ft).
24. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
25. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arms. Tighten to 23 Nm (17
lb ft).
26. Install both wheel and tire assemblies. Tighten the lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
27. Lower the vehicle.
28. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
29. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
30. Install the GM Recall Identification Label Important
For U.S. and Canada: All replaced steering gears are to be held until a return request is received
from the GM Warranty Parts Center (WPC). For additional information, refer to service bulletin #
99-00-89-19B, issued February 2002. DO NOT RETURN REPLACED STEERING GEARS TO
GMSPO.
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
Tool J-44714-A is required to perform this service procedure.
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
3. Remove the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine frame (cradle).
4. Release the brake pipe from the retainers at three locations on the engine cradle.
5. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the lower pinion shaft dust cap.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
6. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings,
see Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this recall
bulletin titled "Steering Gear Replacement" for the described vehicle.
7. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2), see Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8316
8. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft, see Figure 1.
Do not reuse the nut.
9. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1), see Figure 3.
10. Carefully insert the legs (1) of pinion bearing remover J-44714-1 (included in J-44714-A)
between the balls in the lower pinion bearing, see Figure 4.
11. Assemble the center bolt (2) into the forcing screw (1) of the tool, see Figure 5. Back the center
bolt at least 25 mm (1 in) inside the forcing screw.
12. Assemble the forcing screw (2) inside the puller legs (1), see Figure 6. Finger tighten the
forcing screw to push the puller legs against the bearing.
13. Using a 24 mm wrench to hold the forcing screw, use a 17 mm socket to tighten the center bolt
until the bearing is removed from the gear housing, see Figure 7. Do not reuse the bearing.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that no parts of the old bearing remain.
14. Apply a small quantity of lubrication inside the housing bore where the new bearing will be
installed.
15. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
16. Place the bearing installer (1) JA4714-2 (included in J-44714-A) over the pinion thread, see
Figure 8. If necessary, use extension JA4714-3 included with the installer. Lightly tap with a
hammer until the bearing is seated in the housing.
17. Install a new snap ring, see Figure 9. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring
must be on the right side as shown.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
18. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft, see Figure 10.
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
19. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
20. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), then
back off 40 to 50 degrees (4), see Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
21. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
22. Reinstall the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
23. Reattach the brake pipe to the retainers on the engine cradle.
24. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the cradle. Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb ft).
25. Lower the vehicle.
26. Check the power steering fluid level and add if necessary.
27. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required
1. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
2. Remove the nuts that attach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckle.
3. Using J-24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate both tie rod ends from the
steering knuckles.
4. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the six rear attaching bolts.
5. Loosen the front cradle to body attaching bolts. Do not remove the bolts.
6. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
7. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8317
8. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
9. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
10. If necessary, transfer the mounting grommet(s) and bushing(s) from the old steering gear to the
new steering gear.
Note:
The labor time allowance includes the time needed for transferring these parts.
11. Remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
12. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
13. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear and tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb
ft).
14. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
15. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle. Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb
ft).
16. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
17. Raise the rear of the engine cradle while aligning the intermediate steering shaft.
18. Install the six rear engine cradle bolts. Tighten to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
19. Tighten the front engine cradle to body bolts to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
20. Install the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt. Tighten the bolt to
22 Nm (16 lb ft).
21. Reattach the brake pipe to the retainers on the engine cradle.
22. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Install the retaining nuts and tighten to 45 Nm
(33 lb ft).
23. Install both wheel and tire assemblies. Tighten the lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
24. Lower the vehicle
25. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
26. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
27. Install the GM Recall Identification Label.
Important
For U.S. and Canada: All replaced steering gears are to be held until a return request is received
from the GM Warranty Parts Center (WPC). For additional information, refer to service bulletin #
99-00-89-19B, issued February 2002. DO NOT RETURN REPLACED STEERING GEARS TO
GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8318
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 02049 > Jan > 03 > Recall - Steering Gear Lower
Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 8319
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > NHTSA02V286000 > Nov > 02 > Recall 02V286000:
Steering Rack Defect
Steering Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 02V286000: Steering Rack Defect
DEFECT: Certain passenger vehicles and minivans have lower pinion bearings in the power
steering rack and pinion assembly in which the retainer tabs were not crimped properly. These and
some other retainers could fail and permit the ball bearings to escape. If this occurs, the pinion
shaft can be forced upward during left turns and back down as the steering wheel is moved back
and to the right. If the pinion shaft moves further, the driver will need to exert more effort to turn the
steering wheel, similar to a vehicle without power assisted steering. If the pinion shaft moves even
further, the driver will require much higher effort to turn left and may not be able to turn the wheel
as much as intended. With the maximum pinion shaft movement, which requires internal gear
component damage, the driver can encounter high resistance to turning left, followed by
unintended power assist to the right. In any of these conditions, a crash could occur.
REMEDY: Dealers will install a new lower pinion bearing unless inspection of the existing bearing
indicates that replacement of the gear assembly is necessary. The manufacturer has reported that
owner notification began Jan. 17, 2003. Owners should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020,
Pontiac at 1-8000-762-2737, or Oldsmobile at 1-800-442-6537.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 83-32-10 > Nov > 98 > Tools - Adjuster Locknut
Wrench
Steering Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Adjuster Locknut Wrench
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 83-32-10
Date: November, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Essential Tool J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Models: 1990-99 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Integral Power Steering
A new essential tool, J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench, has been sent to all GM Dealers. This tool
should be used on all Integral power steering gears, both past and current models.
The following procedure should be used In place of existing Service Manual procedures for
Coupling Shield and Locknut Removal and Replacement. The correct adjustment procedure and
use of the essential tools are critical to restore the vehicle "On Center" feel (See Figure 1).
Important:
Coupling shield retainer and locknut assembly replacement procedures require the following
special tools:
J 42882 Adjuster Nut Wrench J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 83-32-10 > Nov > 98 > Tools - Adjuster Locknut
Wrench > Page 8328
(See Figure 2)
Procedure
1. Place J 42882 over the end of the stub shaft. Place J 43435 over the end. J 43435 is reversible
and can be used with both old and new style coupling shield retainers and locknuts.
2. Tighten the coupling shield retainer and locknut assembly after an adjustment or repair has been
made to the power steering gear to the specified torque (See Figure 3).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 83-32-10 > Nov > 98 > Tools - Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Steering Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Adjuster Locknut Wrench
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 83-32-10
Date: November, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Essential Tool J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Models: 1990-99 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Integral Power Steering
A new essential tool, J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench, has been sent to all GM Dealers. This tool
should be used on all Integral power steering gears, both past and current models.
The following procedure should be used In place of existing Service Manual procedures for
Coupling Shield and Locknut Removal and Replacement. The correct adjustment procedure and
use of the essential tools are critical to restore the vehicle "On Center" feel (See Figure 1).
Important:
Coupling shield retainer and locknut assembly replacement procedures require the following
special tools:
J 42882 Adjuster Nut Wrench J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 83-32-10 > Nov > 98 > Tools - Adjuster Locknut Wrench
> Page 8334
(See Figure 2)
Procedure
1. Place J 42882 over the end of the stub shaft. Place J 43435 over the end. J 43435 is reversible
and can be used with both old and new style coupling shield retainers and locknuts.
2. Tighten the coupling shield retainer and locknut assembly after an adjustment or repair has been
made to the power steering gear to the specified torque (See Figure 3).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 8335
Steering Gear: Specifications
Hex Torque Prevailing Nut [Outer Tie Rod (1)]:
First 10 N.m (84 inch lbs.) Final 210°
Jam Nut (7) 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.) Inner Tie Rod (12) 100 N.m (74 ft. lbs.) Lock Nut (15) 68 N.m (50 ft.
lbs.) Hex Lock Nut (32) 30 N.m (22 ft. lbs.) Pinion Preload 1.8 N.m (16 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 8336
Pinion Locknut 35 N.m (26 ft. lbs.) Power Steering Gear Hose Fitting Nut 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) Power
Steering Gear Cylinder Line Fitting 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) Valve End Fittings 16.9 N.m (12.6 ft. lbs.)
Cylinder End Fittings 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
Adjuster Plug Locknut 70 N.m (50 ft. lbs.)
Rack and Pinion Cylinder Line:
Fittings at Valve End 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) Fitting at Cylinder End 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.)
Rack and Pinion Mounting Bolts 120 N.m (89 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 8337
Steering Gear: Diagrams
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 8338
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 8339
Steering Gear: Service Precautions
NOTICE: When fasteners are removed, always reinstall them at the same location from which they
were removed. If a fastener needs to be replaced, use the correct part number fastener for that
application. If the correct part number fastener is not available, a fastener of equal size and
strength (or stronger) may be used. Fasteners that are not reused, and those requiring thread
locking compound will be called out. The correct torque value must be used when installing
fasteners that require it. If the above conditions are not followed, parts or system damage could
result.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 8340
Steering Gear: Description and Operation
The power rack and pinion steering system has a rotary control valve which directs hydraulic fluid
coming from the hydraulic pump to one side or the other side of the rack piston. The integral rack
piston is attached to the rack. The rack piston converts hydraulic pressure to a linear force which
moves the rack left or right. The force is then transmitted through the inner and outer tie rods to the
struts which turn the wheels.
If hydraulic assist is not available, manual control will be maintained, however, more steering effort
will be required. The movement of the steering wheel is transferred to the pinion. The movement of
the pinion is then transferred through the pinion teeth, which mesh with teeth on the rack, causing
the rack to move.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Steering Gear: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Diagnostic Information & Procedures
GENERAL PROCEDURE
Inspect ^
Overfilled reservoir.
^ Fluid aeration and overflow.
^ Hose connections.
^ Verify exact point of leakage.
Example: The point from which the fluid is dripping is not necessarily the point where the system is
leaking. Fluid overflowing from the reservoir may appear to be dripping from the bottom of the
housing.
Important: ^
When service is required: a. Clean leakage area upon disassembly. b. Replace leaking seal. c.
Check component sealing surfaces for damage. d. Reset bolt tightening specification, where
required.
Important: ^
Some complaints about the power steering system may be reported as: a. Fluid leakage on garage
floor. b. Fluid leaks visible on steering gear or pump. c. Growling noise, especially when parking or
when engine is cold. d. Loss of power steering when parking. e. Heavy steering effort.
When troubleshooting these kinds of complaints, check for an external leak in the power steering
system.
For further diagnosis of leaks, refer to EXTERNAL LEAKAGE CHECK.
EXTERNAL LEAKAGE CHECK
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 8343
Power Steering Gear Leak Diagnosis
Power Steering Pump Leak Diagnosis
The purpose of this procedure is to pinpoint the location of the leak.
In some cases, the leak can easily be located. But, seepage-type leaks may be more difficult to
isolate. To locate seepage leaks, use the following method. 1. With the engine off, wipe dry the
complete power steering system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 8344
2. Check the fluid level in the pump's reservoir. Adjust fluid level as necessary. 3. Start the engine,
then turn the steering wheel from stop to stop several times. Do not hold it at a stop for any length
of time, as this can damage the
power steering pump. It is easier if someone else operates the steering wheel while you search for
the seepage.
4. Find the exact area of the leak and repair leak.
Diagnosis By Symptom
HISSING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound
when the steering wheel is turned and the vehicle is not moving. This noise will be most evident
when turning the wheel while the brakes are applied. There is no relationship between this noise
and steering performance. Do not replace the valve and pinion unless the "hissing" noise is
extremely objectionable. A replacement valve and pinion will also have a slight noise, and is not
always a cure for the condition. Check that the intermediate shaft joints are not loose.
RATTLE OR CHUCKING NOISE
Inspect ^
Power steering hose or line grounding out.
^ Loose steering gear mounting.
^ Rack bearing preload loose.
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned.
^ For more diagnostic information on these symptoms, Refer to SUSPENSION GENERAL
DIAGNOSIS.
POOR RETURN OF STEERING WHEEL TO CENTER
Inspect ^
Intermediate shaft binding or loose.
^ Tight or frozen steering shaft bearings.
^ Rack bearing preload.
^ Sticky or plugged valve and pinion.
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned.
^ For more diagnostic information on these symptoms, Refer to SUSPENSION GENERAL
DIAGNOSIS.
MOMENTARY INCREASE IN EFFORT WHEN TURNING WHEEL FAST TO RIGHT OR LEFT
(ESPECIALLY WHEN COLD)
Inspect ^
High internal leakage in gear or pump.
^ Hose pinched or restricted.
^ Sticking flow control valve.
^ Low fluid level in pump reservoir.
STEERING WHEEL SURGES OR JERKS WHEN TURNING WITH ENGINE RUNNING
(ESPECIALLY DURING PARKING, OR COLD)
Inspect ^
Belt slipping.
^ Insufficient pump pressure.
EXCESSIVE WHEEL KICKBACK OR LOOSE STEERING
Inspect ^
Air in system.
^ Steering gear attachments loose.
^ Intermediate shaft loose.
^ Rack bearing preload.
^ For more diagnostic information on these symptoms, Refer to SUSPENSION GENERAL
DIAGNOSIS.
HARD STEERING OR LACK OF ASSIST (ESPECIALLY DURING PARKING)
Inspect ^
Loose or worn intermediate shaft.
^ Loose belt.
^ Insufficient pump pressure.
^ High internal leakage in gear or pump.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 8345
Steering Gear: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Lip seals, which seal rotating shafts, require special treatment. This type of seal is used on the
steering gear at the valve and pinion and on the drive shaft of the pump. When there is a leak in
one of these areas, always replace the seal(s), after inspecting and thoroughly cleaning the sealing
surfaces. Replace the shaft only if very severe pitting is found. If the corrosion in the lip seal
contact zone is slight, clean the surface of the shaft with crocus cloth. Replace the shaft only if the
leakage cannot be stopped by first smoothing with crocus cloth.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service
Steering Gear: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service
Gear Inlet Hose
Power Steering Restrictor Valve And Hose Routing
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8348
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Position rags under pump to absorb oil. 2. Siphon fluid from reservoir.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8349
3. Gear inlet hose from pump. 4. Raise vehicle. 5. Gear inlet hose from steering gear.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Route new gear inlet hose to steering gear. 2. Gear inlet hose to steering gear. 3. Lower vehicle.
4. Install gear inlet hose to pump.
Tighten ^
Gear inlet hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
5. Fill and bleed power steering system.
^ Bleed air from system. Refer to BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM.
Gear Outlet Hose
Power Steering Line And Hose Routing
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Position rags under pump to absorb oil. 2. Siphon fluid from reservoir. 3. Gear outlet hose from
pump after sliding spring clamp back. 4. Line retainer (if applicable). 5. Gear inlet hose assembly
from rack and pinion steering gear. 6. Gear outlet hose assembly from rack and pinion steering
gear. 7. Gear outlet pipe and/or hose from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gear outlet hose assembly into position on vehicle. 2. Gear outlet hose assembly to rack and
pinion steering gear.
Tighten ^
Outlet hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Gear inlet hose assembly to rack and pinion steering gear.
Tighten ^
Hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
4. Line retainer (if applicable). 5. Gear outlet hose to pump and hose clamp.
Important: Fill with fluid and bleed air from power steering system. Refer to BLEEDING THE
POWER STEERING SYSTEM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8350
Inspect ^
For leaks.
Manual Transmission
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.
Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment. 3. Remove the
power steering hoses from the power steering gear. Refer to the following procedures:
- Power Steering Pressure Hose Replacement
- Power Steering Return Hose Replacement
4. Remove the tie rods from the steering knuckle. Refer to Tie Rod End Replacement - Outer On
Vehicle. 5. Remove the brake pipes from the retainers on the front suspension support. 6. Remove
the lower pinch bolt from the intermediate shaft. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement
in Steering Column - Standard. 7. Support the front suspension support (2) with a suitable jack
stand. 8. Remove the front suspension cross member mounting bolts. Refer to Front Suspension
Cross member Replacement in Suspension. 9. Lower the front suspension support (2) in order to
remove the power steering gear (1).
10. Remove the power steering gear mounting bolts (3). 11. Remove the power steering gear from
the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the power steering gear (1) to the vehicle. 2. Install the power steering gear mounting
bolts (3).
Hand tighten the bolts.
3. Raise the front suspension support (2) into position on the vehicle.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the front suspension support mounting bolts.
4.1. Tighten the left rear outboard bolt to 110 Nm (71 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8351
4.2. Tighten the right rear outboard bolt to 110 Nm (71 ft. lbs.).
4.3. Tighten the rear inboard bolts to 110 Nm (71 ft. lbs.).
4.4. Tighten the power steering gear mounting bolts to 0120 Nm (89 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the lower pinch bolt to the intermediate shaft. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft
Replacement in Steering Column Standard. 6. Install the brake pipes to the retainers on the front
suspension support. 7. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckle. Refer to Tie Rod End
Replacement - Outer On Vehicle. 8. Install the power steering hoses to the power steering gear.
Refer to the following procedures:
- Power Steering Pressure Hose Replacement
- Power Steering Return Hose Replacement
9. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in
Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
10. Bleed the power steering system. Refer to Bleeding Power Steering System in Service and
Repair of Steering. 11. Align the front wheels. Refer to Measuring Wheel Alignment (Front) in
Alignment.
Automatic Transmission
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 2. Remove the front suspension cross
member. Refer to Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement in Suspension
3. Remove the power steering gear mounting bolts (3). 4. Remove the power steering gear (1) from
the front suspension support assembly (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the power steering gear (1) to the front suspension cross member (2).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the power steering gear mounting bolts (3)
Tighten the bolts to 120 Nm (89 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the front suspension support assembly. Refer to Front Suspension Cross member
Replacement in Suspension 4. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8352
Steering Gear: Service and Repair Unit Repair
Outer Tie Rod
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8353
^ Tool Required: J 24319-01 Universal Steering Linkage Puller
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hex torque prevailing nut (1) from outer tie rod assembly (5). 2. Loosen jam nut (7). 3. Outer tie
rod (5) from steering knuckle with J 24319-01. 4. Outer tie rod (5) from inner tie rod (12).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Outer tie rod assembly (5) to inner tie rod (12). Do not tighten jam nut (7). 2. Outer tie rod (5) to
steering knuckle, hex torque prevailing nut (1) to outer tie rod stud.
^ Tighten: Hex torque prevailing nut (1) to 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten nut an additional 210° of rotation.
^ Adjust toe by turning inner tie rod (12).
Important: Be sure rack and pinion boot (10) is not twisted or puckered during toe adjustment.
^ Tighten jam nut (7) against outer tie rod (5) to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.).
Rack Bearing Preload (on Vehicle Adjustment)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8354
1. Make adjustment with front wheels raised and steering wheel centered. Be sure to check
returnability of the steering wheel to center after
adjustment.
2. Loosen adjuster plug lock nut (15) and turn adjuster plug clockwise until it bottoms in gear
assembly (30), then back off 50° to 70° (approximately
one flat).
3. Lock nut (15) to adjuster plug.
^ Tighten lock nut (15) to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) while holding adjuster plug stationary.
Inner Tie Rod
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8355
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8356
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8357
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rack and pinion assembly from vehicle. 2. Do all steps of RACK & PINION BOOT and
BREATHER TUBE, under "REMOVE OR DISCONNECT.
3. Shock dampener (13) from inner tie rod assembly (12) and slide back on rack.
NOTICE: Rack must be held during removal of inner tie rod (12) to prevent rack damage.
4. Inner tie rod assembly (12) from rack assembly as follows.
^ Place a wrench on flat of rack assembly.
^ Place another wrench on flats of inner tie rod housing.
^ Rotate inner tie rod housing counterclockwise until inner tie rod (12) separates from rack.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Important: Rack must be held during inner tie rod (12) installation to prevent internal gear damage.
1. Shock dampener (13) onto rack.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8358
2. Inner tie rod (12) on rack.
^ Place a wrench on flat of rack assembly.
^ Place another wrench on flats of inner tie rod housing.
^ Tighten inner tie rod (12) to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.).
Important: Make sure tie rod rocks freely in housing before staking inner tie rod assembly (12) to
rack.
3. Support rack and housing of inner tie rod assembly (12) and stake both sides of inner tie rod
housing to flats on rack.
^ Check both stakes by inserting a 0.25 mm (.010 in.) feeler gauge between rack and tie rod
housing. Feeler must not pass between rack and housing stake.
4. Slide shock dampener (13) over inner tie rod housing until it engages. 5. Do all steps of RACK &
PINION BOOT and BREATHER TUBE, under "INSTALL OR CONNECT." 6. Rack and pinion
assembly to vehicle.
Cylinder Line Assembly and O-Ring Seals
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8359
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8360
^ Tools Required: 12mm Flare Nut Wrench
- 16mm Flare Nut Wrench
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Loosen cylinder line fittings (25) or (26) on cylinder end of gear assembly (30). 2. Loosen fittings
on cylinder line assemblies (25) or (26) at valve end of gear assembly (30). 3. Cylinder line
assemblies (25) or (26) from rack and pinion gear assembly (30). 4. O-ring seals (23) from valve
end of lines (25) or (26) and discard.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Inspect lines for: ^
Cracks.
^ Dents.
^ Damage to threads.
^ Replace as needed.
1. New O-ring seals (23) to valve end of lines (25) or (26). 2. Cylinder line assemblies (25) or (26)
to gear assembly (30).
NOTICE: Carefully align threads on all fittings and finger tighten to avoid stripping and
cross-threading.
^ Tighten: Valve end fittings to 16.9 Nm (12.6 ft. lbs.).
- Cylinder end fittings to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Rack & Pinion Boot and Breather Tube
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8361
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8362
^ Tool Required: J 22610 Service Boot Clamp Installer
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Do all steps of OUTER TIE ROD under "REMOVE OR DISCONNECT." 2. Hex jam nut (7) from
inner tie rod assembly (12). 3. Tie rod end clamp (8). 4. Boot clamp (11) with side cutters and
discard.
Important: Mark location of breather tube (35) on gear assembly (30) before removing tube (35) or
rack and pinion boot (10).
5. Rack and pinion boot (10) and breather tube (35).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New boot clamp (11) onto rack and pinion boot (10).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8363
2. Apply grease to inner tie rod (12) and gear assembly (30) prior to boot installation.
^ Boot (10) onto inner tie rod assembly (12).
3. Breather tube (35) aligned with mark made during removal, molded nipple of boot (10) to tube
(35). 4. Boot (10) onto gear assembly (30) until seated in gear assembly groove.
Important: Boot (10) must not be twisted, puckered or out of shape in any way. If the boot is not
shaped properly, adjust by hand before installing boot clamp (11).
5. Boot clamp (11) on boot (10) with tool J 22610 and crimp as shown. 6. Tie rod end clamp (8)
with pliers on boot (10). 7. Hex jam nut (7) to inner tie rod assembly (12). 8. Do all steps of OUTER
TIE ROD under "INSTALL OR CONNECT."
Pinion Seal, Dust Seal and Bearing/Annulus Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8364
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8365
^ Tools Required: J 29810 Stub Shaft Seal Protector, Or Equivalent
- 14 mm Crowfoot Wrench
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rack and pinion steering assembly from vehicle).
2. Adjuster plug lock nut (15) from adjuster plug. 3. Adjuster plug from gear assembly (30). 4.
Adjuster spring and rack bearing. 5. Retaining ring (17) from valve bore of gear assembly (30).
6. Dust cover (33) from bottom of gear assembly (30).
NOTICE: Stub shaft must be held to prevent damage to the pinion teeth.
7. Hex lock nut (32) from lower end of pinion and valve assembly, while holding stub shaft with 14
mm Crowfoot Wrench.
NOTICE: DO NOT hammer or pound on pinion and valve assembly. This will cause damage or
loosen the drive pin.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8366
Important: When performing the following procedure, do not remove pinion and valve assembly
from gear assembly. Press pinion and valve assembly only far enough to allow removal of
bearing/annulus and seal. Pinion and valve assembly removal is not required.
8. Use an arbor press. Press on threaded end of pinion until it is possible to remove stub shaft,
spool shaft seal (20), and stub shaft bearing/annulus
assembly (21).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: If the stub shaft is not held, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
1. Hex lock nut (32) onto pinion, while holding the valve stub shaft.
^ Tighten hex lock nut (32) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
2. Dust cover (33) to gear assembly (30). 3. Stub shaft bearing annulus assembly (21) onto valve
stub shaft.
4. Seal protector J 29810 onto valve stub shaft. 5. Apply a small quantity of grease on seal (20).
^ Spool shaft seal (20) over protector and into gear assembly (30).
6. Retaining ring (17) into groove in gear assembly (30). 7. Lubricate stub shaft and dust seal area
with grease.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8367
8. Coat rack bearing, adjuster spring and adjuster plug with lithium base grease and install in gear
assembly (30).
^ With rack centered in the gear assembly (30), turn adjuster plug clockwise until it bottoms in the
gear assembly, then back off 50° to 70° (approx. one flat). Check rotational torque on pinion.
Maximum pinion preload torque is 1.8 Nm (16 inch lbs.).
9. Adjuster plug lock nut (15) to adjuster plug. Tighten firmly against gear assembly while holding
adjuster plug stationary.
^ Tighten lock nut (15) to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) while holding adjuster plug stationary.
10. Rack and pinion assembly into vehicle.
Important: Flush power steering system (hoses, reservoir and cooler lines) with power steering fluid
- GM Part #1050017 (or equivalent meeting GM Specification #9985010), refer to "Flushing And
Bleeding Procedures."
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 8368
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel Controls <--> [Steering Mounted
Controls Transmitter] > Component Information > Service and Repair
Steering Wheel Controls: Service and Repair
Steering Wheel Control Switches Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the steering wheel module. 2. Remove the horn plunger. 3. Remove the steering wheel
redundant control switch mounting screws.
4. Disconnect the steering wheel redundant control switch electrical connector. 5. Remove the
steering wheel redundant control switch from the steering wheel.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the steering wheel redundant control switch to the steering wheel. 2. Connect the steering
wheel redundant control switch electrical connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel Controls <--> [Steering Mounted
Controls Transmitter] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 8372
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the steering wheel redundant control switch mounting screws.
Tighten Tighten the steering wheel redundant control switch mounting screws to 2 N-m (20 lb in).
4. Install the horn plunger. 5. Install the steering wheel module.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Shaft > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Steering Shaft: > 07-02-32-006 > Aug > 07 > Steering - Clunk Felt/Noise Heard
From Steering Column
Steering Shaft: Customer Interest Steering - Clunk Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column
Bulletin No.: 07-02-32-006
Date: August 06, 2007
TECHNICAL
Subject: Clunk Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column, Steering Gear and/or Front of Vehicle
During Turning Maneuver and/or Steering Wheel Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft [I-Shaft])
Models: 1997-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2005 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle while
driving during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when
the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Some vehicles
may only exhibit the noise once for every 360° of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk
noise will be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the
steering wheel.
Cause
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft which
results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise.
Diagnostic Tip
This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and has resulted in the
replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting the concern.
Engineering investigation shows that numerous steering gears have been misdiagnosed and
replaced. The investigation shows that if the technician incorrectly diagnoses the steering gear as
the cause of the noise and/or clunk during replacement of the steering gear, the technician may
cycle the I-shaft, distributing the original grease in the I-shaft. This distribution of the original I-shaft
grease may temporarily eliminate the I-shaft clunk so that the technician believes the noise and/or
clunk is corrected with the steering gear replacement and returns the vehicle to the customer. After
the customer drives the vehicles for several miles and dissipates the original grease, the noise may
return.
Attempt to duplicate the customer's concern and isolate the I-shaft by following the procedure
below:
Locate a large area (parking lot) where the vehicle can be turned in a tight circle.
Turn the steering wheel to the right and/or left all the way to the steering lock, then off the steering
lock a 1/4 turn.
Drive the vehicle approximately 5 km/h (3 mph) in a circle, preferably over rough pavement or
seams on the road surface.
If a clunk is felt in the steering wheel, the MOST likely cause is the I-shaft - not the steering gear.
Continue the correction.
Correction
Remove the intermediate steering shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the shaft with a Steering
Column Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098237. Follow the service procedure listed below.
Remove the steering intermediate shaft from the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft
replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Shaft > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Steering Shaft: > 07-02-32-006 > Aug > 07 > Steering - Clunk Felt/Noise Heard
From Steering Column > Page 8381
Fully extend the intermediate shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.
Apply the grease supplied in the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit in the aluminum end of the
yoke opening. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the yoke and dispense the full content
of the syringe.
Install the rubber stop plug from the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication kit into the yoke opening.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Shaft > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Steering Shaft: > 07-02-32-006 > Aug > 07 > Steering - Clunk Felt/Noise Heard
From Steering Column > Page 8382
Secure the rubber plug by swinging the upper yoke 90°. One ear of the yoke should press the
rubber plug in.
Make sure the intermediate shaft is being pressed over the ears of the solid shaft.
Use a hard surface to ease the collapse of the intermediate shaft. It is best to use a pumping action
when collapsing the shaft. Collapse the shaft as far as possible.
Remove the rubber stopper plug from the yoke end of the shaft.
Slowly extend the intermediate shaft apart.
Inspect the intermediate shaft for a minimum of 5 mm (0.2 in) (a) of grease on the shaft splines.
Repeat steps 4-9 if less than 5 mm (0.2 in) of grease is on the shaft splines.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Shaft > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Steering Shaft: > 07-02-32-006 > Aug > 07 > Steering - Clunk Felt/Noise Heard
From Steering Column > Page 8383
Before installing the intermediate shaft in the vehicle, make sure to stoke and extend the
intermediate shaft at least 15 times to completely lubricate the internal surface of the slip joint.
Reinstall the intermediate shaft into the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement
in Service Information (SI).
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Shaft > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Shaft: > 07-02-32-006 > Aug > 07 > Steering - Clunk
Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column
Steering Shaft: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Clunk Felt/Noise Heard From Steering
Column
Bulletin No.: 07-02-32-006
Date: August 06, 2007
TECHNICAL
Subject: Clunk Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column, Steering Gear and/or Front of Vehicle
During Turning Maneuver and/or Steering Wheel Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft [I-Shaft])
Models: 1997-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2005 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle while
driving during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when
the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Some vehicles
may only exhibit the noise once for every 360° of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk
noise will be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the
steering wheel.
Cause
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft which
results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise.
Diagnostic Tip
This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and has resulted in the
replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting the concern.
Engineering investigation shows that numerous steering gears have been misdiagnosed and
replaced. The investigation shows that if the technician incorrectly diagnoses the steering gear as
the cause of the noise and/or clunk during replacement of the steering gear, the technician may
cycle the I-shaft, distributing the original grease in the I-shaft. This distribution of the original I-shaft
grease may temporarily eliminate the I-shaft clunk so that the technician believes the noise and/or
clunk is corrected with the steering gear replacement and returns the vehicle to the customer. After
the customer drives the vehicles for several miles and dissipates the original grease, the noise may
return.
Attempt to duplicate the customer's concern and isolate the I-shaft by following the procedure
below:
Locate a large area (parking lot) where the vehicle can be turned in a tight circle.
Turn the steering wheel to the right and/or left all the way to the steering lock, then off the steering
lock a 1/4 turn.
Drive the vehicle approximately 5 km/h (3 mph) in a circle, preferably over rough pavement or
seams on the road surface.
If a clunk is felt in the steering wheel, the MOST likely cause is the I-shaft - not the steering gear.
Continue the correction.
Correction
Remove the intermediate steering shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the shaft with a Steering
Column Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098237. Follow the service procedure listed below.
Remove the steering intermediate shaft from the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft
replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Shaft > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Shaft: > 07-02-32-006 > Aug > 07 > Steering - Clunk
Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column > Page 8389
Fully extend the intermediate shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.
Apply the grease supplied in the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit in the aluminum end of the
yoke opening. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the yoke and dispense the full content
of the syringe.
Install the rubber stop plug from the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication kit into the yoke opening.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Shaft > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Shaft: > 07-02-32-006 > Aug > 07 > Steering - Clunk
Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column > Page 8390
Secure the rubber plug by swinging the upper yoke 90°. One ear of the yoke should press the
rubber plug in.
Make sure the intermediate shaft is being pressed over the ears of the solid shaft.
Use a hard surface to ease the collapse of the intermediate shaft. It is best to use a pumping action
when collapsing the shaft. Collapse the shaft as far as possible.
Remove the rubber stopper plug from the yoke end of the shaft.
Slowly extend the intermediate shaft apart.
Inspect the intermediate shaft for a minimum of 5 mm (0.2 in) (a) of grease on the shaft splines.
Repeat steps 4-9 if less than 5 mm (0.2 in) of grease is on the shaft splines.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Shaft > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Shaft: > 07-02-32-006 > Aug > 07 > Steering - Clunk
Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column > Page 8391
Before installing the intermediate shaft in the vehicle, make sure to stoke and extend the
intermediate shaft at least 15 times to completely lubricate the internal surface of the slip joint.
Reinstall the intermediate shaft into the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement
in Service Information (SI).
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information >
Specifications
Steering Wheel: Specifications
Steering Wheel Nut to Shaft ................................................................................................................
.................................................... 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Steering Wheel Controls System
Steering Wheel: Description and Operation Steering Wheel Controls System
The steering wheel controls consist of the following components:
^ The steering wheel radio control switches
^ The SIR coil assembly
^ The radio
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Steering Wheel Controls System > Page 8397
Steering Wheel: Description and Operation Steering Wheel Radio Control Switches
The steering wheel control switches control the following components:
^ The radio power
^ The volume
^ The station frequency
These switches are a ladder network consisting of these components:
^ The switches
^ A series of resistors
The ladder network is arranged so that each switch has a different resistance. The different
resistances allow a different voltage output to the radio for each switch pressed.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Steering Wheel Controls System > Page 8398
Steering Wheel: Description and Operation SIR Coil Assembly
The SIR coil assembly contains 4 wires. The wires are used by the steering wheel controls. The
assembly allows voltages to be sent from the steering wheel switches to the radio while the
steering wheel is being turned.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service
Precautions
The procedures must be followed in the order listed to temporarily disable the Supplemental
Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System and prevent false Diagnostic Trouble Codes from setting. Failure
to follow procedures could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise
unneeded SIR system repairs.
The DERM can maintain sufficient voltage to cause a deployment for 10 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned "OFF" or the battery is disconnected. Many of the service procedures require
disconnection of the SIR fuse and inflator module circuits from the deployment loop to avoid an
accidental deployment.
Disabling SIR System
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
^ Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. -Turn the ignition
switch to "LOCK".
1. AIR BAG fuse #1. 2. Left sound insulator. 3. Connector position assurance (CPA) and yellow
two-way SIR harness connector at base of steering column.
Steering Wheel
^ Tool Required: -
J 1859-A Steering Wheel Puller
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system. 2. Inflator module and horn
connection. 3. Nut. 4. Steering wheel using J 1859-A.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Align mark on steering wheel with mark on shaft, then install steering wheel. 2. Nut.
^ Tighten steering wheel nut to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
3. Horn connection and Inflator module.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8401
4. Enable the SIR system.
Enabling the SIR System
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Turn ignition switch to "OFF". 2. Route wire around post on back of module and under tab. 3.
Yellow two-way Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) connector and connector position
assurance (CPA) at base of steering column. 4. Left sound insulator. 5. AIR BAG fuse #1. 6. Turn
ignition to "RUN" and make sure the "INFLATABLE RESTRAINT" indicator lamp flashes 7 to 9
times and then goes out.
Handling Precautions - SIR
LIVE (UNDEPLOYED) INFLATOR MODULE
Special care is necessary when handling and storing a live (undeployed) Inflator Module. The rapid
gas generation produced during deployment of the air bag could cause the Inflator Module, or an
object in front of the Inflator Module, to be thrown through the air in the unlikely event of an
accidental deployment.
CAUTION: When carrying a live inflator module, make sure the bag opening is pointed away from
you. Never carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the underside of the module. In
case of an accidental deployment, the bag will then deploy with minimal chance of injury. When
placing a live inflator module on bench or other surface, always face the bag and trim cover up,
away from the surface. Never rest a steering column assembly on the steering wheel with the
inflator module face down and column vertical. This is necessary so that a free space is provided to
allow the air bag to expand in the unlikely event of accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal
injury may result.
DEPLOYED INFLATOR MODULES
After an Inflator Module has been deployed, the surface of the air bag may contain a powdery
residue. This powder consists primarily of corn starch (used to lubricate the bag as it inflates) and
by products of the chemical reaction. Sodium hydroxide dust (similar to lye is produced as a
by-product of the deployment reaction. The sodium hydroxide then quickly reacts with atmospheric
moisture and is converted to sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore,
it is unlikely that sodium hydroxide will be present after deployment. As with many service
procedures, you should wear gloves and safety glasses.
INFLATOR MODULE SHIPPING PROCEDURES FOR LIVE (UNDEPLOYED) INFLATOR
MODULES
Service personnel should refer to the latest Service Bulletins for proper Supplemental Inflatable
Restraint (SIR) inflator module shipping procedures.
INFLATOR MODULE SCRAPPING PROCEDURE
During the course of a vehicle's useful life, certain situations may arise which will necessitate the
disposal of a live (undeployed) inflator module. This information covers proper procedures for
disposing of a live inflator module.
Before a live inflator module can be disposed of, it must be deployed. Live inflator modules must
not be disposes of through normal refuse channels.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8402
CAUTION: Failure to follow proper Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) inflator module disposal
procedures can result in air bag deployment which may cause personal injury. Undeployed inflator
modules must not be disposed of through normal refuel channels. The undeployed inflator module
contains substances that can cause severe illness or personal injury if the sealed container is
damaged during disposal. Disposal in any manner inconsistent with proper procedures may be a
violation of federal, state, and/or local laws.
If a vehicle is the subject of a Product Liability Report related to the SIR system and is subject to a
Preliminary Investigation (GM-1241), DO NOT DEPLOY the inflator module and SO NOT ALTER
the SIR system in any manner. Refer to the applicable service bulletin on SIR shipping procedures
for details on handling SIR systems involved with GM-1241. If a vehicle is the subject of a
campaign affecting inflator modules, DO NOT DEPLOY the inflator module. Follow instruction in
the Campaign Service Bulletin for proper disposition of the inflator module. If an inflator module is
replaced under warranty, DO NOT DEPLOY the air bag. The inflator module may need to be
returned, undeployed, to Inland Fisher Guide. Refer to procedures shown in the appropriate service
bulletin regarding SIR shipping procedures.
In situations which require deployment of alive (undeployed) driver inflator module, deployment
may be accomplished inside or outside the vehicle. The method employed depends upon the final
disposition of the particular vehicle, as noted in "Deployment Outside Vehicle" and "Deployment
Inside Vehicle."
WIRING REPAIR SUPPLEMENTAL INFLATABLE RESTRAINT
If the wiring pigtail (wires attached directly to the component, not by a connector) on either the
Inflator Module or the SIR Coil Assembly is damaged, the entire component must be replaced.
Absolutely no wire, connector, or terminal repairs are to be attempted on either the Inflator Module
or the SIR Coil Assembly.
Inflator Module - Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR)
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system. 2. Two screws from the back of the
steering wheel using a Hex Head driver (or equivalent). 3. Connector position assurance (CPA)
and electrical connection from rear of inflator module. 4. Inflator module.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. CPA to rear of inflator module. 2. Inflator module to steering wheel and four screws through back
of steering wheel.
^ Tighten screws to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
3. Enable the SIR system.
Coil Assembly- Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8403
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Important: Disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system.
1. Steering wheel assembly. 2. Coil assembly retaining clip. 3. Coil assembly off shaft end letting
coil hang freely. 4. Wave washer. 5. Spacer shaft lock (standard column only). 6. Shaft lock
retaining ring using J 23563-C to compress lock. 7. Pry off retaining ring. 8. Shaft lock. 9. Turn
signal canceling cam assembly.
10. Upper bearing spring. 11. Turn signal to right turn position (up). 12. Multifunction lever. 13.
Hazard knob assembly. 14. Screw and signal switch arm.
^ Let switch arm hang freely (tilt option equipped with cruise only).
15. Screws, turn signal switch.
^ Let turn signal switch hang freely.
16. Remove coil assembly connector shroud. 17. Steering column support bracket bolts. 18. Upper
steering column bolts. 19. Wiring protector. 20. Connect a length of mechanic's wire to coil
assembly terminal connector to aid in reassembly. 21. Gently pull wire harness through steering
column housing shroud, steering column housing and lock assembly cover. 22. Remove
mechanic's wire.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Ensure all fasteners are securely seated before applying needed torque. Failure to do so
may result in component damage or malfunctioning of steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8404
1. Connect mechanic's wire to centering coil assembly connector. 2. Gently pull connector through
steering column housing shroud, steering column housing and lock assembly. 3. Remove
mechanic's wire. 4. Install wiring protector. 5. Install connector shroud. 6. Connector centering coil
assembly terminal connector. 7. Steering column lower support bracket to steering column.
^ Tighten bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
8. Steering column upper support bolts.
^ Tighten bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
9. Turn signal switch assembly.
^ Tighten bolts to 3.4 Nm (30 inch lbs.).
10. Signal switch arm (tilt steering column only).
^ Tighten bolts to 2.3 Nm (20 inch lbs.).
11. Hazard knob assembly. 12. Multifunction lever. 13. Turn signal canceling cam assembly.
^ Lubricate with grease, synthetic (service kit).
14. Shaft lock.
^ Inspect shaft lock retaining ring for damage or deformation. Replace with new retaining ring.
15. Shaft lock retaining ring. Line up to block tooth on shaft using J 23653-C to compress shaft
lock.
^ Shaft lock retaining ring must be firmly seated in groove on shaft.
16. Spacer shaft lock (standard column only). 17. Ensure coil assembly is centered.
Important: Assemble pre-centered coil assembly to steering column. Remove centering tab and
dispose.
Important: Coil assembly will become un-centered if: a. Steering column is separated form steering
gear and is allowed to rotate. b. Centering spring is pushed down, letting hub rotate while coil is
removed from steering column. In the event this occurs, refer to "Centering
Coil Assembly."
18. Coil assembly using horn tower on canceling cam assembly inner ring and projections on outer
ring for alignment. 19. Coil assembly retaining ring.
^ Ring must be firmly in groove on shaft.
Important: Gently pull lower coil assembly wire to remove any wire kinks that may be inside column
assembly. It is absolutely critical that you make sure there are no kinks or bends in the SIR coil
assembly wire. If a kink or bend is present, interference may occur with the shaft lock mechanism.
Then turning of the steering wheel may cut or damage wire.
20. Steering wheel assembly. 21. Enable the SIR system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8405
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8406
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR)
The supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system helps supplement the protection offered by the
driver's seat belt by deploying an air bag from the center of the steering wheel during certain frontal
crashes. The air bag deploys when the vehicle is involved in a frontal crash of sufficient force up to
30° off the centerline of the vehicle. The steering column is collapsible and should be inspected
after an accident whether or not deployment has occurred.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8407
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Lubrication
Apply a thin coat of lithium grease to all friction parts when assembling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 8408
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Outer Tie Rod
Tie Rod: Service and Repair Outer Tie Rod
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Outer Tie Rod > Page 8413
^ Tool Required: J 24319-01 Universal Steering Linkage Puller
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hex torque prevailing nut (1) from outer tie rod assembly (5). 2. Loosen jam nut (7). 3. Outer tie
rod (5) from steering knuckle with J 24319-01. 4. Outer tie rod (5) from inner tie rod (12).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Outer tie rod assembly (5) to inner tie rod (12). Do not tighten jam nut (7). 2. Outer tie rod (5) to
steering knuckle, hex torque prevailing nut (1) to outer tie rod stud.
^ Tighten: Hex torque prevailing nut (1) to 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten nut an additional 210° of rotation.
^ Adjust toe by turning inner tie rod (12).
Important: Be sure rack and pinion boot (10) is not twisted or puckered during toe adjustment.
^ Tighten jam nut (7) against outer tie rod (5) to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Outer Tie Rod > Page 8414
Tie Rod: Service and Repair Inner Tie Rod
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Outer Tie Rod > Page 8415
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Outer Tie Rod > Page 8416
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rack and pinion assembly from vehicle. 2. Do all steps of RACK & PINION BOOT and
BREATHER TUBE, under "REMOVE OR DISCONNECT.
3. Shock dampener (13) from inner tie rod assembly (12) and slide back on rack.
NOTICE: Rack must be held during removal of inner tie rod (12) to prevent rack damage.
4. Inner tie rod assembly (12) from rack assembly as follows.
^ Place a wrench on flat of rack assembly.
^ Place another wrench on flats of inner tie rod housing.
^ Rotate inner tie rod housing counterclockwise until inner tie rod (12) separates from rack.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Important: Rack must be held during inner tie rod (12) installation to prevent internal gear damage.
1. Shock dampener (13) onto rack.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Outer Tie Rod > Page 8417
2. Inner tie rod (12) on rack.
^ Place a wrench on flat of rack assembly.
^ Place another wrench on flats of inner tie rod housing.
^ Tighten inner tie rod (12) to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.).
Important: Make sure tie rod rocks freely in housing before staking inner tie rod assembly (12) to
rack.
3. Support rack and housing of inner tie rod assembly (12) and stake both sides of inner tie rod
housing to flats on rack.
^ Check both stakes by inserting a 0.25 mm (.010 in.) feeler gauge between rack and tie rod
housing. Feeler must not pass between rack and housing stake.
4. Slide shock dampener (13) over inner tie rod housing until it engages. 5. Do all steps of RACK &
PINION BOOT and BREATHER TUBE, under "INSTALL OR CONNECT." 6. Rack and pinion
assembly to vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information >
Specifications > Fastener Tightening Specifications
Ball Joint: Specifications Fastener Tightening Specifications
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut to Install Cotter Pin (Maximum):
First ......................................................................................................................................................
................................................ 65 N.m (50 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut to Install Cotter Pin (Minimum):
First ......................................................................................................................................................
................................................ 55 N.m (41 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information >
Specifications > Fastener Tightening Specifications > Page 8423
Ball Joint: Specifications Wear Limit
1. Replace the ball joint if any looseness is detected in the joint. 2. Replace the bail joint if the ball
joint seal is cut. 3. Inspect the ball joints.
3.1. Raise the front of the vehicle which allows the front suspension to hang free. 3.2. Grasp the
tire at the top and the bottom. 3.3. Move the top of the tire with an in and out motion. 3.4. Observe
ball joint for any horizontal movement of the steering knuckle, relative to the front lower amp.
Replace the ball joint if movement is
present.
4. Replace the ball joint if the ball stud is disconnected from the steering knuckle and looseness is
detected. 5. Replace the bail joint if the ball stud can be twisted in the socket using finger pressure.
6. Check the ball stud tightness in the steering knuckle boss.
6.1. Shake the wheel while feeling for movement of the stud end or castellated nut at the knuckle
boss. 6.2. Check the castellated nut fastener tightening specifications is an alternative method of
inspecting for wear. A loose nut can indicate a bent
stud or an opened-up hole in the knuckle boss.
7. Replace worn or damaged ball joints and knuckles.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8424
Ball Joint: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. If a suspension contact hoist is used:
^ Place the jack stands under the crossmember.
^ Lower the vehicle slightly until the weight of the vehicle resets on the crossmember. Do not rest
the vehicle on the control arms.
NOTICE: Care must be exercised to prevent the drive axle joints from being over-extended. When
either end of the shaft is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of the
internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joint protectors should be used any time
service is performed on or near drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or boot
damage, and possible joint failure.
3. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL in TIRES AND WHEELS.
4. Remove the cotter pin (1) from the ball joint (3). 5. Remove the nut (4) from ball joint (3).
NOTICE: Use only the recommended tools for separating the ball joint from the knuckle. Failure to
use the recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
6. Use the J 38892 in order to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Important: Do not damage the drive axle boot when drilling out the ball joint rivets.
7. Drill out three rivets retaining the ball joint (4) to the lower control arm (2). Use a 3 mm (1/8 in)
drill bit in order to make a pilot hole through the
rivets. Finish drilling the rivets with a 13 mm (1/2 in) drill bit.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8425
8. Remove the nut (4) attaching the link (7-11) to the stabilizer shaft (3). 9. Remove the ball joint (4)
from the steering knuckle and control arm (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the ball joint (4) into the control arm, (2). 2. Install three ball joint bolts (3) and nuts (1).
Follow the instructions from the ball joint kit. Tighten the bail joint bolts (3) according to the
specifications in the instructions.
3. Install the ball joint stud (3) through the steering knuckle (2).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8426
clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
4. Install the ball joint nut (4).
Tighten Tighten the ball joint nut to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.) minimum - 65 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) maximum.
Do not loosen the nut at any time during installation.
5. install the cotter pin (1).
6. Install the nut attaching the stabilizer link to the stabilizer shaft.
Tighten Tighten the nut to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
7. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION in TIRES AND
WHEELS. 8. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS in
WHEEL ALIGNMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Control Arm Bushing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Control Arm Bushing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 29792 Lower Control Arm Front Bushing Set
- J 41211 Lower Control Arm Vertical Bushings
1. Remove the lower control arm. Refer to LOWER CONTROL ARM REPLACEMENT.
2. Install the bushing removal tools (1, 3, 5). 3. Coat threads of J 29792 with an extreme pressure
lubricant.
4. Remove the lower control arm bushings (4).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Control Arm Bushing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8432
5. Remove the lower control arm vertical bushing (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bushing installation tools (1, 3, 5). 2. Install the front control arm bushing (2).
3. Install the rear control arm vertical bushing (2). 4. Lubricate the outer casing of the new bushing
(2). 5. Install the lower control arm bushings (2). 6. Install the lower control arm (4). Refer to
LOWER CONTROL ARM REPLACEMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Control Arm Bushing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8433
Control Arm Bushing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 21474-18 3/8 in Nut.
- J 21474-19 3/8 in Bolt.
- J 29376-A Rear Control Arm Bushing Service Set.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. 2. Support the vehicle with suitable jackstand under the axle. 3.
Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 4. If removing the: right
bushings, disconnect the brake lines from the body. If removing the left bushings, disconnect the
brake line bracket from the
body and the parking brake cable from the hook guide on the body.
NOTICE: Do not suspend rear axle by brake hoses. Damage to hoses could result.
5. Remove the nut, bolt, and washer from the control am1 and underbody attachment. Rotate the
control arm downward. (Remove and install one
control arm bushing at a time.)
6. Remove the bushing (1) using the following procedure:
6.1. Install the J 29376-1 into the slot in the control arm. 6.2. Position the J 29376-1 over the
control arm end/bushing. 6.3. Install the J hooks through the J 29376-1 and J 29376-1 tighten the
attaching nuts until the tool is securely in place. 6.4. Install the J 21474-19 bolt through the plate J
29376-7 and install into the J 29376-6. 6.5. Place the J 29376-7 remover into position on the
bushing. 6.6. Install the nut J 21474-18 onto the J 21474-19 bolt. 6.7. Remove the bushing from the
control arm by turning the bolt.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Control Arm Bushing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8434
1. Install the bushing (1) as follows:
1.1. Install the J 29376-1 receiver on the control arm. 1.2. Install the J 21474-19 bolt through the J
29376-A plate and into the receiver. 1.3. Install the bushing on the bolt and position into the
housing. Align the bushing installer arrow with the arrow on the receiver for proper
indexing of the bushing. A high-pressure lubricant such as J 23444-A may be necessary for
assembly.
1.4. Install J 21474-18 (3/8 in) nut onto the J 21474-19 (3/8 in) bolt. 1.5. Press the bushing-into the
control arm by fuming the bolt. When the bushing is in the proper position, the end flange will be
flush against the
face of the control arm.
Important: The washer and nut must be installed on the outboard side.
2. Align the control arm and the underbody attachment. 3. Loosely install the bolt, the washer, and
the nut. 4. Install the left and right brake pipe brackets and the attaching screws.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
5. Install the tire and the wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION. 6. Remove the
jackstand and lower the vehicle to curb height.
Tighten Tighten the control arm nuts to 80 Nm (59 ft. lbs.), plus 120° rotation using J 36660.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Suspension (Front) - Torque Specification Update
Cross-Member: Technical Service Bulletins Suspension (Front) - Torque Specification Update
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 02-03-08-006
Date: May, 2002
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Front Suspension Fastener Tightening Specifications
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2002 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the fastener tightening specifications in the Lower Control
Arm Replacement Procedure and the Fastener Tightening Specifications in the Front Suspension
sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in the Service Manual
with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The following tightening specification has been revised:
Control Arm to Crossmember Bolts (Front Bushing) - 100 N.m plus 90 degrees rotation (74 lb ft).
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8439
Cross-Member: Specifications
Crossmember Support Left Rear Outboard Bolt:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
90°
Crossmember Support Right Rear Outboard Bolt:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
90°
Crossmember Support Upper Front Bolts:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
90°
Crossmember Support Rear Inboard Bolts:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
90°
Front Suspension Frame to Body Left Rear Bolt:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Front Suspension Frame to Body Right Rear Bolt:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Cross-Member: Service and Repair Front Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tool Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. If a suspension hoist is to be used:
^ Place the jack stand under the uni-body frame near the crossmember.
^ Lower the vehicle slightly so the weight of the vehicle rests on the under uni-body frame. Do not
rest on the control arms or crossmember.
3. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL in TIRES AND WHEELS.
4. Disconnect the right and left wiring harnesses from the crossmember.
NOTICE: Use only the recommended tools for separating the ball joint from the knuckle. Failure to
use the recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
5. Use the J 38892 in order to remove the ball joint (3) from the knuckle (2). 6. Remove the engine
strut mount from the crossmember. Refer to ENGINE.
7. Remove the crossmember extension brace (3) bolts (2 and 4) from the lower tie bar (5).
^ Remove the front exhaust pipe. Support the catalytic converter. Refer to CATALYTIC
CONVERTER in EXHAUST SYSTEM.
8. Remove the power steering gear bolts. Support the power steering gear. 9. Disconnect the brake
lines from the retainers on the crossmember
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8442
10. Remove the splash shield from the crossmember. 11. Remove the stabilizer bar (3) from the
crossmember (5).
12. Remove the crossmember bolts (2 through 8). 13. Remove the crossmember.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8443
14. Remove the control arms (3) from the crossmember (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the control arms (3) to the crossmember (1). Snug the bolts. 2. Install the crossmember.
Finger tighten all of the bolts.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown below:
Tighten ^
Tighten the crossmember support left rear outboard bolt to 110 Nm (71 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° rotation.
^ Tighten the crossmember support right rear outboard bolt to 110 Nm (71 ft. lbs.) plus a 90°
rotation.
^ Tighten the crossmember support upper front bolts to 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° rotation.
^ Tighten the crossmember support rear inboard bolts to 110 Nm (71 ft. lbs.) plus a 90 rotation.
Important: Do not loosen the nut any time during the installation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8444
4. Install the nut (4) attaching the ball joint (3) to the steering knuckle (2).
Tighten Tighten the nut to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.) minimum - 65 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) maximum.
5. install the cotter pin (1). 6. Install the left power steering gear bolts. Refer to POWER STEERING
GEAR AND PUMP in STEERING for fastener tightening specifications. 7. Install the right power
steering gear bolts. Refer to POWER STEERING GEAR AND PUMP in STEERING for fastener
tightening specifications. 8. Install the front exhaust pipe. Refer to ENGINE EXHAUST in
EXHAUST for tightening specifications. 9. Install the crossmember support braces.
Tighten Tighten the core support bolts to the crossmember braces to 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.).
10. Install the engine strut mount to the crossmember. Refer to ENGINE for tightening
specifications.
11. Install the stabilizer bar (3) to the crossmember (5).
Tighten Tighten the stabilizer shaft to support the assembly bolt to 66 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
12. Install the splash shield to the crossmember (5). 13. Connect the brake lines to the retainers to
the crossmember. 14. Install the right and left wiring harnesses to the crossmember. 15. Slightly
raise the vehicle. 16. Remove the jack stand from under the crossmember. 17. Install the tire and
wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION in TIRES AND WHEELS. 18. Tighten the
control arm attaching bolts, with the vehicle at curb height.
Tighten ^
Tighten the control arm to crossmember bolts (front bushing) to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.) plus 180°
rotation.
^ Tighten the control arm crossmember bolts, (vertical bushing) to 170 Nm (125 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8445
19. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS in WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8446
Cross-Member: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Support the rear axle assembly (1) with suitable jackstands. 3. Remove the both rear tires and
the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 4. Disconnect the brake pipe at the brake pipe
brackets on the axle assembly. Refer to PIPE REPLACEMENT in HYDRAULIC BRAKES. This will
ensure that the axle assembly is not suspended by the brake pipes and the hoses. Plug the brake
pipe openings to prevent loss of brake fluid from master cylinder.
5. Remove the lower shock absorber mount bolt (4). 6. Lower the rear axle. 7. Disconnect the
parking brake at the equalizer unit. Refer to PARKING BRAKE. 8. Disconnect the rear ABS wiring
connector. 9. Remove the right brake lines and the left brake lines.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8447
10. Remove the axle assembly attaching bolts (1) with an assistant.
11. Remove the axle assembly (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Position the rear axle assembly (1) into place.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8448
2. Loosely install the attaching bolts (1).
Tighten Tighten the axle attaching bolts to 80 Nm (59 ft. lbs.), plus 120° at curb height.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Install the right brake lines and the left brake lines. 4. Connect the ABS wiring connector. 5.
Connect the parking brake cable at the right rear wheel cable connector and the cable equalizer.
6. Install both springs (2) and insulators (1) while carefully raising the axle assembly and
positioning the axle assembly in order to install the lower
shock absorber mount stud and nut (5).
7. Lower the shock absorber mount nuts (5).
Tighten Tighten the shock absorber lower attaching nut to 47 Am (35 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the left and the right side brake line bracket mount bolts to the body.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
9. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
10. Lower the vehicle. 11. Fill and bleed the rear brake system. Refer to HYDRAULIC BRAKE
SYSTEM BLEEDING. 12. Adjust the parking brake. Refer to PARK BRAKE CABLE
SERVICE/ADJUSTMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Specifications
Front Steering Knuckle: Specifications
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut to Install Cotter Pin (Maximum):
First ......................................................................................................................................................
................................................ 65 N.m (50 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut to Install Cotter Pin (Minimum):
First ......................................................................................................................................................
................................................ 55 N.m (41 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Caliper to Knuckle Bolts ......................................................................................................................
................................................... 51 N.m (38 ft. lbs.) Hub and Bearing Assembly to Steering
Knuckle Bolts ........................................................................................................................... 95
N.m (70 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 8452
Front Steering Knuckle: Testing and Inspection
1. Check the ball stud tightness in the steering knuckle boss.
1.1. Shake the wheel and feeling for movement of the stud end or castellated nut at the knuckle
boss. 1.2. Check the castellated nut fastener tightening specifications is an alternative method of
inspecting for wear. A loose nut can indicate a bent
stud or an opened-up hole in the knuckle boss.
2. Replace worn or damaged ball joints and knuckles.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Repair Instructions
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Repair Instructions
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
- J 28733-B Front Hub Spindle Remover
1. Remove the hub and bearing assembly (1). Refer to WHEEL BEARING AND WHEEL HUB
REPLACEMENT.
2. Remove the bolts (6) attaching the steering knuckle (3) to the strut (1).
3. Remove the cotter pin (1). 4. Remove the nut (4) from the ball joint (3). 5. Use the J 38892 in
order to separate the ball joint (3) from the knuckle (2). 6. Remove the knuckle (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Repair Instructions > Page 8455
1. Install the steering knuckle (2) to the ball joint (3).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the ball joint nut (4).
Tighten Tighten the ball joint nut to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.) (minimum) and 65 Nm (50 ft. lbs.)
(maximum).
3. Install the cotter pin (1).
4. Install the steering knuckle (3) into the strut (1). 5. Install the steering knuckle to strut assembly
bolts (6).
Tighten Tighten the nuts (2) to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Repair Instructions > Page 8456
6. Install the hub and bearing assembly (1) onto the knuckle (2).
7. Install the hub and bearing assembly bolts (1). Refer to WHEEL BEARING AND WHEEL HUB
REPLACEMENT. 8. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT
SPECIFICATIONS in WHEEL ALIGNMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Repair Instructions > Page 8457
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Strut and Knuckle Scribing
SCRIBING PROCEDURE
1. Scribe the knuckle along the lower outboard strut radius (shown by the dotted line). Use a sharp
tool.
2. Scribe the strut flange on the inboard side along the curve of the knuckle (shown by the dotted
line).
3. Make a scribe mark across the strut/knuckle interface. 4. Match the marks to the components
during reassembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle Alignment Link > Component
Information > Specifications
Rear Knuckle Alignment Link: Specifications
Inner Tie Rod Bolts ..............................................................................................................................
................................................... 90 N.m (65 ft. lbs.) Tie Rod End to Strut Nut:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
................................................ 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Link >
Component Information > Specifications
Stabilizer Link: Specifications
Stabilizer Shaft Bushing Clamp:
To Crossmember Support Bolts
...........................................................................................................................................................
66 N.m (49 ft. lbs.)
Stabilizer Shaft Link to Control Arm Nuts
.............................................................................................................................................. 17 N.m
(13 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Specifications
Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ): Specifications
Coil Over Shock Absorber:
Adapter ................................................................................................................................................
................................................ 70 N.m (52 ft. lbs.) Upper Mounting Bolt ............................................
............................................................................................................................... 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.)
Lower Mounting Bolt ............................................................................................................................
.......................................... 170 N.m (125 ft. lbs.) Mounting Upper Bolt to Body
.............................................................................................................................................................
28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.) Mounting Nut .........................................................................................................
............................................................................. 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.) Upper Mount to Shock Nut ......
............................................................................................................................................................
20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Suspension - Shock Absorber/Strut Leakage Information
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Shock
Absorber/Strut Leakage Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-03-08-002C
Date: October 16, 2009
Subject: Information on Replacement of Shock Absorbers and Struts Due to Fluid Leaks
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2010 model year and Inspection Procedures.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-08-002B (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin is intended to help identify the severity of shock absorber and strut fluid seepage.
Improper diagnosis may lead to components being replaced that are within the manufacturer's
specification. Shock absorbers and strut assemblies are fluid-filled components and will normally
exhibit some seepage. Seepage is defined as oil film or dust accumulation on the exterior of the
shock housing. Shock absorbers and struts are not to be replaced under warranty for seepage.
Use the following information to determine if the condition is normal acceptable seepage or a
defective component.
Important Electronically controlled shock absorbers (MR) may have a tendency to attract dust to
this oil film. Often this film and dust can be wiped off and will not return until similar mileage is
accumulated again.
Inspection Procedure
Note
The shock absorber or strut assembly DOES NOT have to be removed from the vehicle to perform
the following inspection procedure.
Use the following descriptions and graphics to determine the serviceability of the component.
Shock Absorbers
Do Not Replace shock absorbers displaying condition 1 or 2 levels of seepage.
1. Oil or fluid residue only on the bottom or top of the shock absorber and not originating from the
shaft seal (the upper part of the lower shock tube). 2. Light film/residue on approximately 1/3 (a) or
less of the lower shock tube (A) and originating from the shaft seal.
Replace shock absorbers displaying conditions 3 and 4 levels of leaks.
3. Oil drip or trail down the lower shock tube and originating from the shaft seal. 4. An extreme wet
film of oil covering more than 1/3 (b) of the lower shock tube and originating from the shaft seal.
Coil-over Shock Absorber
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Suspension - Shock Absorber/Strut Leakage Information > Page 8472
Do Not Replace coil-over shock absorbers displaying condition 1 or 2 levels of seepage.
1. Oil or fluid residue only on the bottom of the lower shock absorber tube or the coil-over shock
absorber components and not originating from the
shaft seal (located at the top of the coil-over shock tube).
2. Light film/residue on the shock absorber tube, but not on the spring seat and originating from the
shaft seal.
Replace coil-over shock absorbers displaying conditions 3 and 4 levels of leaks.
3. Oil drip or trail down the lower shock tube and originating from the shaft seal. 4. An extreme, wet
film of oil covering the shock absorber tube and pooling in the spring seat and originating from the
shaft seal.
Struts
Do Not Replace Struts displaying condition 1 or 2 levels of seepage.
1. Oil or fluid residue only on the bottom of the strut tube or on other strut components and not
originating from the shaft seal. 2. Light film/residue on the strut tube, but not on the spring seat and
originating from the shaft seal.
Replace Struts displaying conditions 3 and 4 levels of leaks.
3. Oil drip or trail down the strut tube and originating from the shaft seal (located at the top of the
strut tube). 4. Extreme wet film of oil covering the strut tube and pooling in the spring seat and
originating from the shaft seal.
Correction
Use the information published in SI for diagnosis and repair.
Use the applicable published labor operation.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Suspension - Shock Absorber/Strut Leakage Information > Page 8473
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Shock
Absorber/Strut Replacement Guidlines
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-12
Date: January, 1998
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Replacement of Shock Absorbers and Struts Labor Operations E3800, E3801, E3807,
E5800, E5801, E5807, E3850, E3851, E3857, E5750, E5751, and E5757
Models: All Past, Present, and Future Passenger Cars & Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide retail and wholesale service personnel with enhanced
service policies for the above listed subject labor operations.
Service Management should make certain that all dealership personnel responsible for
replacement of suspension components are familiar with GM Service Manual procedures.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after January 15, 1998 the following must also be followed:
- Shock absorber/strut assemblies are fluid filled components and will normally exhibit seepage.
Seepage is defined as oil film or dust accumulation on the exterior of the shock housing. Shock
absorber/strut assemblies are not to be replaced under warranty or seepage.
- Defective shock absorber/strut assemblies will have a visible oil path or drip coming from the
component. A visible oil path or drip coming from the shock absorber/strut assembly should be
replaced as a defective component.
- Only defective shock absorber/strut assemblies should be replaced. DO NOT replace pairs unless
both are defective, unless otherwise instructed in the Service Manual and/or Service Bulletin.
- Service Management approval is required on the repair order for replacement of struts or shocks
in pairs. This approval includes noting the reason for replacement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8474
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Specifications
Strut Assembly to Body Bolt ................................................................................................................
................................................... 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) Strut Assembly to Body Nuts ............................
...................................................................................................................................... 25 N.m (18 ft.
lbs.) Strut Assembly to Steering Knuckle Nuts
............................................................................................................................................ 180 N.m
(133 ft. lbs.) Strut Nut to Strut Rod ......................................................................................................
........................................................................ 70 N.m (52 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the coil-over shock absorber (5) lower nut. 2. Remove the coil-over lower adapter bolt
(4) and the nut.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the coil-over shock (5) lower adapter (3) and the bolt (4).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the shock absorber lower nut.
Tighten Tighten the coil-over shock absorber nut to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber > Page 8477
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Front Suspension
Strut and Knuckle Scribing
SCRIBING PROCEDURE
1. Scribe the knuckle along the lower outboard strut radius (shown by the dotted line). Use a sharp
tool.
2. Scribe the strut flange on the inboard side along the curve of the knuckle (shown by the dotted
line).
3. Make a scribe mark across the strut/knuckle interface. 4. Match the marks to the components
during reassembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber > Page 8478
Strut Replacement (Strut Removal)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 24319-01 Tie Rod Puller
1. Remove the nuts (1) and bolt (2) attaching the top of the strut assembly to the body (3). 2. Raise
and suitably support the vehicle. 3. Place a jackstand under the front crossmember if it will be
supported by a suspension lift. 4. Lower the vehicle. Ensure that the weight of the vehicle rests on
the jack stand rather than the control arms. 5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to
WHEEL REMOVAL in TIRES AND WHEELS. 6. Remove the brake line bracket. 7. Scribe the strut
flange. Refer to STRUT AND KNUCKLE SCRIBING.
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling
the front suspension coil spring. Damage can cause premature failure.
Important: The steering knuckle must be supported to prevent an axle joint over-extension.
8. Remove the bolts (6) attaching the strut (1) to the steering knuckle (3). 9. Remove the strut
assembly (1) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling
the front suspension cold spring. Damage can cause premature failure.
1. Install the strut (1) into position. 2. Install the two nuts (1) and one bolt (2) connecting the strut
assembly to the body.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber > Page 8479
3. Align the steering knuckle (3) with a strut flange scribe mark and install the bolts (6) and nuts (2).
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 130 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
4. Tighten the nuts (1) attaching the top of the stout assembly to the body.
Tighten Tighten to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
5. Tighten the bolt (2) attaching the top of the strut assembly to the body.
Tighten Tighten to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
6. Install the brake line bracket. 7. If a suspension contact hoist is used:
7.1. Slightly raise the vehicle. 7.2. Remove the jackstand from under the crossmember.
8. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION in TIRES AND WHEELS.
9. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS in WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.
Strut Replacement (Strut Modification)
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
Perform stout modification on or off the vehicle. 1. Elongate the lower strut to knuckle hole (2) on
the strut (1) before adjusting the camber. This allows movement of the knuckle. 2. Paint the filed
area after modification. Painting protects the are from corrosion. Use a rust preventative paint. 3.
Disconnect the strut (1) from the knuckle if the strut is on the vehicle. Place the strut in a vise if the
strut is off the vehicle. 4. File the lower hole (2) until the outer flange slot match the inner flange
slot. 5. Reconnect the strut to the knuckle. 6. Check the wheel alignment. Refer to MEASURING
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (FRONT ALIGNMENT ANGLES). 7. Adjust camber if necessary. Refer to
FRONT CAMBER ADJUSTMENT.
Strut, Strut Component and/or Spring Replacement
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber > Page 8480
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 3269-20 Holding Fixture
- J 34013-B Strut Compressing Tool
- J 34013-20 Dampener Rod Clamp
- J 34013-27 Alignment Rod
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling
the front suspension coil spring. Damage can cause premature failure.
1. Mount the J 34013-B and thee J 3289-20. 2. Mount the strut (1) into the J 3289-20. Take notice
that the J 34013-B has the strut mounting holes drilled for a specific car line.
3. Compress the strut approximately 1/2 the height after the initial contact with the cap. Do not
bottom the spring (1) or dampen the rod.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber > Page 8481
4. Remove the nut (2) from the strut dampener shaft.
5. Place the J 34013-27 on top of the dampen shaft. Use this rod to guide the dampen shaft
straight down through the bearing cap while
decompressing the spring (1).
6. Remove the components 1 through 10.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling
the front suspension coil spring. Damage can cause premature failure.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber > Page 8482
1. Install the bearing cap if it had been previously removed from the top of the strut (8).
2. Mount the strut into the J 34013-B using the bottom locking pin only. 3. Extend dampener shaft
(1) and install the J 34013-20 onto the dampener shaft.
4. Install the spring (6) over the dampener.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber > Page 8483
5. Swing the assembly up for the upper locking pin (2) to be installed.
6. Install the-upper insulator (5). 7. Install the shield (10). Install the bumper (9). 8. Install the upper
spring seat.
Important: The flat on the lower spring seat is NOT perpendicular to the strut/knuckle opening.
9. Face the upper spring seat flat in the same direction as the centerline of the strut/knuckle
assembly spindle.
10. Install the J 34013-27. 11. Turn the forcing screw (3) while the J 34013-27 centers the
assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Steering/Suspension Shock Absorber > Page 8484
12. Remove the J 34013-27 and install the nut (2) when the threads on the dampen shaft are
visible.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
13. Tighten the nut (2).
Tighten Tighten the nut to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.).
14. Use a line wrench (1) while holding the dampen shaft with the socket.
15. Remove the clamp Use the J 34013-20
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Specifications
Wheel Bearing: Specifications
This vehicle uses a sealed wheel bearing and lubricating grease is not required.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 28733-B Front Hub Spindle Remover
1. Remove the drive axle. Refer to WHEEL DRIVE SHAFTS REPLACEMENT in Drive Axles,
Bearings and Joints. 2. Remove brake caliper bolts and support caliper. Refer to BRAKE CALIPER
REPLACEMENT in BRAKES. 3. Remove the rotor. Refer to ROTOR REPLACEMENT in
HYDRAULIC BRAKES.
4. Remove the bolts (1) from the hub and bearing assembly (3).
5. Remove the hub and bearing assembly (1) from the steering knuckle (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 8490
1. Install the hub and bearing assembly (1) into the steering knuckle (2).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the hub and bearing bolts (1) and washers (2).
Tighten Tighten the bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the rotor. Refer to ROTOR REPLACEMENT in HYDRAULIC BRAKES. 4. Install the brake
caliper and bolts. Refer to BRAKE CALIPER REPLACEMENT in BRAKES. 5. Install the drive axle.
Refer to WHEEL DRIVE SHAFTS REPLACEMENT in DRIVE AXLES, BEARINGS AND JOINTS.
6. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS in WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 8491
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear
REAR HUB AND/OR BEARINGS
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL
REMOVAL.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum as damage to the bearing could result.
3. Remove the brake drum. Refer To BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. 4. Remove the hub and
bearing assembly (4) from the axle (2). The top rear attaching bolt (5) and nut (1) will not clear the
brake shoe (3) when
removing the hub and bearing assembly. Partially remove the hub and bearing assembly prior to
removing this bolt.
5. Disconnect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 2. Install the hub and bearing
assembly (4). Position the top rear attaching bolt (5) in the hub and bearing assembly prior to the
installation in the axle
assembly (2).
Tighten Tighten the hub and bearing to axle bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Install the brake drum. Refer to BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. 4. Install the tire and wheel
assemblies. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information
> Specifications > Front
Axle Nut: Specifications
Drive Axle Nut 200 Nm (144 ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information
> Specifications > Front > Page 8497
Axle Nut: Specifications
Rear Hub and Bearing to Axle Bolts 60 Nm (44 ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
LIFTING AND JACKING THE VEHICLE
Caution: To help avoid personal injury, always use jack stands when you are working on or under
any vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
Caution: To help avoid personal injury, when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for
the vehicle at the opposite end from which you are removing components. The additional support
will reduce the possibility of the vehicle falling off the hoist. When you are removing major
components from the vehicle while the vehicle is on a hoist, chain the vehicle frame to the hoist
pads at the same end from which you are removing the major components to prevent tip-off. If you
fail to follow these precautionary measures, vehicle damage, serious personal injury, or death may
result.
Notice: When you are jacking or lifting a vehicle at the frame side rails or other prescribed lift
points, be certain that the lift pads do not contact the catalytic converter, the brake pipes or the fuel
lines. If such contact occurs, vehicle damage or unsatisfactory vehicle performance may result.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Spare Tire > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Spare Tire: Service and Repair
All vehicles are equipped with a high pressure compact spare tire. The compact spare tire uses a
narrow 4-inch wide rim, although the wheel diameter is usually one inch larger than the road
wheels. Do not use the compact spare tire with standard tires, snow tires, wheel covers or trim
rings. If such use is attempted, damage to these items or other parts of the vehicle may occur. Use
the compact spare tire only on vehicles which offered the spare tire as the original equipment.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury, do not stand over tire when Inflating. The bead may
break when the bead snaps over the safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when
Inflating any tire If beads are not seated If 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat the beads,
deflate, relubricate the beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause
serious personal injury.
Periodically check inflation pressure. Maintain inflation pressure at 415 kPa (60 psi). The compact
spare tire can be mounted and dismounted from the wheel using present tire changing equipment
and procedures. As with other tires, completely seat the beads at 275 kPa (40 psi). The tire may
then be safely inflated to 415 kPa (60 psi).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation
(RFV)
Wheels: Customer Interest Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation
(RFV) > Page 8514
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation
(RFV) > Page 8515
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation
(RFV) > Page 8516
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast
Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: Customer Interest Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
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Aluminum Wheels > Page 8521
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
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Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 8527
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
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Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 8528
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
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Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 8529
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
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longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
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Procedures/Precautions > Page 8539
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
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Procedures/Precautions > Page 8540
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire
Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire
Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 8545
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire
Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 8546
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire
Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 8547
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low
Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low
Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels > Page 8552
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE
Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for
Using E0420 Wheel Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 8570
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 8571
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 8572
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires Refinishing Aluminum Wheels > Page 8577
longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 8582
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 8583
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE Chrome
Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for
Using E0420 Wheel Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8596
Wheels: Specifications
Maximum Radial Runout:
Steel Wheel .........................................................................................................................................
............................................. 1.01 mm (0.040 inch) Aluminum Wheels ...............................................
............................................................................................................................ 0.76 mm (0.030
inch)
Maximum Lateral Runout:
Steel Wheels .......................................................................................................................................
............................................. 1.14 mm (0.045 inch) Aluminum Wheels ...............................................
............................................................................................................................ 0.76 mm (0.030
inch)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Description and Operation > General Description
Wheels: Description and Operation General Description
The factory installed tires and wheels are designed to operate with loads up to and including the full
rated load capacity when inflated to the recommended inflation pressures.
Correct tire pressures, wheel alignment and driving techniques have an important influence on tire
life. Heavy cornering, excessive rapid acceleration, and heavy braking will increase tire wear.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Description and Operation > General Description > Page 8599
Wheels: Description and Operation Wheel Repair Description
Wheel repairs that use welding, heating or peening are not approved. An inner tube is not an
acceptable repair for leaky wheels or tires. Porosity in aluminum wheels can be repaired. Refer to
ALUMINUM WHEEL POROSITY REPAIR.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Description and Operation > General Description > Page 8600
Wheels: Description and Operation Wheels Description
Wheels must be replaced if they are bent, dented, have excessive lateral or radial runout, leak air
through welds, have elongated bolt holes, if the wheel nuts won't stay tight, or if wheel nuts are
heavily rusted. Wheels with excessive runout may cause objectionable vibrations.
Replacement wheels must be equivalent to the original equipment wheels in load capacity,
diameter, rim width, offset, and mounting configuration. A wheel of improper size or type may affect
wheel and bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance,
and tire clearance to the body and chassis.
Steel wheels can be identified by a two or three-letter code stamped into the rim near the valve
stem. Aluminum wheels have the code, part number, and manufacturer ID cast into their back side.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal
Wheels: Service and Repair Removal
Penetrating oil is not effective in removing tight wheels. However, if it is used, apply sparingly to the
center hole area of the wheel only.
CAUTION: If penetrating all gets on the vertical surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or drum,
it could cause the wheel to work loose as the vehicle is driven, resulting In a loss of control and an
Injury accident.
Wheels can be difficult to remove due to foreign material or a tight fit between the wheel center
hole and the rotor. Excessive force, such as hammering the wheel or tire, can cause damage and
is not recommended. Slight tapping on the tire sidewall using a large rubber mallet is acceptable.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Using the following procedure, the wheel can be removed without damage. 1. Tighten all of the
wheel nuts on the affected wheel. Then loosen each nut two turns. Rock the vehicle from side to
side. If this is not effective go to
the next step. If this procedure is effective, go to Step 3.
2. Rock the vehicle from Drive to Reverse, allowing the vehicle to move several feet in each
direction. Apply quick, hard jabs on the brake pedal in
order to loosen the wheel. If the wheel still does not free up, then rock the vehicle again from side
to side as hard as possible using one or more person's body weight. If the wheel is still tight, repeat
the procedure.
3. Raise the vehicle and suitably support the vehicle. 4. Remove the wheel cover. 5. Remove the
wheel nuts. 6. Mark the location of the tire and wheel assembly to the hub assembly. 7. Clean the
wheel nuts, studs and the wheel and brake chum or rotor mounting surfaces.
CAUTION: Before Installing a wheel, remove any buildup of corrosion on the wheel mounting
surface and brake drum or rotor by scraping and wire brushing. Installing wheels without good
metal-to-metal contact at the mounting surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen, which may later
allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal > Page 8603
Wheels: Service and Repair Installation
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the cap on the aluminum wheel, if necessary. 2. Install the tire and the wheel assembly.
Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION. 3. Align the locating mark of the tire and the wheel with the hub
assembly.
CAUTION: Never use all or grease on studs or nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with your fingers unto
they are snug. Then, tighten the nuts (In the sequence shown) to the fastener tightening
specification shown in SPECIFICATIONS. Improperly tightened wheel nuts could eventually allow
the wheel to come off while the vehicle is moving, possibly causing loss of control, personal injury,
and property damage.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
4. Install the wheel nuts.
Tighten Tighten the wheel nuts in sequence to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the wheel cover, if equipped. 6. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal > Page 8604
Wheels: Service and Repair Aluminum Wheel Hub Cap Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
WHEEL REMOVAL. 3. Use the following procedure in order to remove the hub cap:
^ Place a block of wood, approximately 50 mm (2 in) in diameter with a squared off end, against
the back surface of the cap.
^ Strike the block of wood sharply with a hammer in order to remove the cap.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the hub cap using the following procedure:
^ Place the cap into position at the wheel opening.
^ Place a block of wood, at least 75 mm t3 in), on the diameter against the cap face.
NOTICE: Failure to hit the cap squarely without the load distributed evenly could result in
permanent damage to the cap.
^ Install the cap by striking the block of wood with a harmer.
2. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal > Page 8605
Wheels: Service and Repair Aluminum Wheel Porosity Repair
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
WHEEL REMOVAL. 3. Locate the leaking areas by inflating the tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and dipping
the tire and the wheel assembly into a water bath. 4. Mark the leak areas and remove the tire from
the wheel. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING. 5. Scuff the inside of the rim surface
at the leak area with 80 number grit sandpaper. Clean the area with general purpose cleaner. 6.
Apply a 3 mm (1/8 inch) thick layer of adhesive/sealant to the leak area and allow six hours of
drying time. 7. Mount the tire on the wheel. Pressurize the tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and check for
leaks. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal Injury, do nor stand over tire when Inflating. The bead may
break when the bead snaps over the safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when
inflating any tire if beads are not seated. If 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat the beads,
deflate, relubricate the beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause
serious personal Injury.
8. Adjust the tire pressure in order to meet specifications. 9. Balance the tire and the wheel
assembly.
10. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal > Page 8606
Wheels: Service and Repair
Removal
Penetrating oil is not effective in removing tight wheels. However, if it is used, apply sparingly to the
center hole area of the wheel only.
CAUTION: If penetrating all gets on the vertical surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or drum,
it could cause the wheel to work loose as the vehicle is driven, resulting In a loss of control and an
Injury accident.
Wheels can be difficult to remove due to foreign material or a tight fit between the wheel center
hole and the rotor. Excessive force, such as hammering the wheel or tire, can cause damage and
is not recommended. Slight tapping on the tire sidewall using a large rubber mallet is acceptable.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Using the following procedure, the wheel can be removed without damage. 1. Tighten all of the
wheel nuts on the affected wheel. Then loosen each nut two turns. Rock the vehicle from side to
side. If this is not effective go to
the next step. If this procedure is effective, go to Step 3.
2. Rock the vehicle from Drive to Reverse, allowing the vehicle to move several feet in each
direction. Apply quick, hard jabs on the brake pedal in
order to loosen the wheel. If the wheel still does not free up, then rock the vehicle again from side
to side as hard as possible using one or more person's body weight. If the wheel is still tight, repeat
the procedure.
3. Raise the vehicle and suitably support the vehicle. 4. Remove the wheel cover. 5. Remove the
wheel nuts. 6. Mark the location of the tire and wheel assembly to the hub assembly. 7. Clean the
wheel nuts, studs and the wheel and brake chum or rotor mounting surfaces.
CAUTION: Before Installing a wheel, remove any buildup of corrosion on the wheel mounting
surface and brake drum or rotor by scraping and wire brushing. Installing wheels without good
metal-to-metal contact at the mounting surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen, which may later
allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion.
Installation
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the cap on the aluminum wheel, if necessary. 2. Install the tire and the wheel assembly.
Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION. 3. Align the locating mark of the tire and the wheel with the hub
assembly.
CAUTION: Never use all or grease on studs or nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with your fingers unto
they are snug. Then, tighten the nuts (In the sequence shown) to the fastener tightening
specification shown in SPECIFICATIONS. Improperly tightened wheel nuts could eventually allow
the wheel to come off while the vehicle is moving, possibly causing loss of control, personal injury,
and property damage.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
4. Install the wheel nuts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal > Page 8607
Tighten Tighten the wheel nuts in sequence to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the wheel cover, if equipped. 6. Lower the vehicle.
Aluminum Wheel Hub Cap Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
WHEEL REMOVAL. 3. Use the following procedure in order to remove the hub cap:
^ Place a block of wood, approximately 50 mm (2 in) in diameter with a squared off end, against
the back surface of the cap.
^ Strike the block of wood sharply with a hammer in order to remove the cap.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the hub cap using the following procedure:
^ Place the cap into position at the wheel opening.
^ Place a block of wood, at least 75 mm t3 in), on the diameter against the cap face.
NOTICE: Failure to hit the cap squarely without the load distributed evenly could result in
permanent damage to the cap.
^ Install the cap by striking the block of wood with a harmer.
2. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Aluminum Wheel Porosity Repair
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to
WHEEL REMOVAL. 3. Locate the leaking areas by inflating the tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and dipping
the tire and the wheel assembly into a water bath. 4. Mark the leak areas and remove the tire from
the wheel. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING. 5. Scuff the inside of the rim surface
at the leak area with 80 number grit sandpaper. Clean the area with general purpose cleaner. 6.
Apply a 3 mm (1/8 inch) thick layer of adhesive/sealant to the leak area and allow six hours of
drying time. 7. Mount the tire on the wheel. Pressurize the tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and check for
leaks. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal Injury, do nor stand over tire when Inflating. The bead may
break when the bead snaps over the safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when
inflating any tire if beads are not seated. If 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat the beads,
deflate, relubricate the beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause
serious personal Injury.
8. Adjust the tire pressure in order to meet specifications. 9. Balance the tire and the wheel
assembly.
10. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing
A protective clear or color coating is applied to the surface of original equipment cast aluminum
wheels. A surface degradation condition can begin to develop if this clear coating is damaged or
removed. This can happen at some automatic car wash facilities using aggressive silicon carbide
tipped tire brushes in order to clean the white walls and the tires. Once the protective coating is
damaged, exposure to caustic cleaners and/or road salt causes further surface degradation. The
following procedure details how to strip, clean and coat the aluminum wheels that are affected by
these conditions. Use the listed materials when completing this procedure.
^ Amchem Alumi Prep number 33 - stock number DX533 or the equivalent - cleaning and
conditioning chemical for aluminum.
^ Amchem Alodine number 1001 - stock number DX50T or the equivalent-coating chemical for
aluminum.
^ Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane Clear - stock number DAU-75 or equivalent.
^ Ditzler Delthane Ultra-Urethane Additive - stock DXR-80 or equivalent.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 2.
Match mark the tire for reinstallation of the outboard wheel weights after the recoating of the wheel.
3. Remove the outboard wheel weights. 4. Clean the inside and the outside of the wheel with a
water base all purpose cleaner. 5. Remove grease or oil from the wheel with a solvent cleaner.
SURFACE DAMAGE
CAUTION: Do not use vehicle power to rotate the wheel while sanding to avoid personal injury.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal > Page 8608
1. Sand over painted areas that do not require recoloring with number 400 (wet or dry) in order to
promote adhesion of a clear coat. 2. Mount the tire and the wheel on a brake lathe and spin slowly.
NOTICE: Do not use an abrasive coarser than 80 grit or wheel may be damaged.
3. Sand wheel with a backing block or a pad by holding the abrasive flat in order to the surface of
the wheel and moving slowly back and forth from
the center to the outer edge to remove damage. Use the following sandpaper grits in the order
listed: 3.1. Sand with number 80 grit sandpaper. 3.2. Sand with number 150 grit sandpaper. 3.3.
Sand with number 240 grit sandpaper.
RE-COATING PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection is necessary to prevent personal injury.
1. Clean the surface of the contaminants by washing the surface with soap and water. 2. Spray the
wheel with Amchem number 33 or the equivalent. 3. Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes. 4. Rinse
the wheel with water. Blow the wheel dry with compressed air. 5. Soak the wheel with Amchem
number 1001 or the equivalent. 6. Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes. 7. Rinse the wheel with
water. Blow the wheel dry with compressed air. 8. Mask off the tire.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury when applying any two part component paint system,
follow the specific precautions provided by the paint manufacturer. Failure to follow these
precautions may cause lung irritation and allergic respiratory reaction.
9. Finish the wheel with Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane and Ditzler Ultra-Urethane Additive or the
equivalent using the following three coats.
Refer to the labels for specific instructions: ^
First coat-light mist coat, let flash.
^ Second coat-light, let flash.
^ Third coat-heavy double wet coat.
10. Let the wheel dry for 24 hours (or flash for 30 minutes, force dry at 60° C (140° F) for 30
minutes, and allow to cool for 30 minutes before
mounting.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Balance the tire and the wheel assembly. 2. Replace the original balance weights with nylon
coated weights in order to avoid discoloration of the wheel. 3. Install the tire and the wheel
assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Clearcoat Damage to Aluminum Wheels
UNPAINTED WHEELS
1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 2. Match
mark the tire for reinstallation of the outboard wheel weights after the recoating of the wheel. 3.
Remove the outboard wheel weights. 4. Clean the wheel inside and out with a water base all
purpose cleaner. 5. Remove the grease or the oil with a solvent cleaner. 6. Sand over painted
areas that do not require recoloring with number 400 (wet or dry) to promote adhesion of clear
coat.
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection is necessary to prevent personal Injury.
7. Apply the chemical stripper. 8. Allow the stripper to penetrate the coating. 9. Use a small 1/4
inch-detail brush dipped in stripper in order to apply the material around the perimeter and the
spoke-like areas.
10. Remove the stripper following the manufacturer's recommendations.
CAUTION: Do not use vehicle power to rotate the wheel walls sanding to avoid personal Injury.
11. Sand the wheel with 240 grit while rotating the wheel on a slow spinning brake lathe or by
mounting on the vehicle and spinning by hand. This
will restore the machined appearance and promote adhesion.
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection Is necessary to prevent personal injury.
12. Clean the surface of the contaminants by washing the surface with soap and water. 13. Spray
the wheel with Amchem number 33 or the equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal > Page 8609
14. Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes. 15. Rinse the wheel with water. Blow the wheel dry with
compressed air. 16. Soak the wheel with Amchem number 1001 or the equivalent. 17. Let the
wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes. 18. Rinse the wheel with water. Blow the wheel dry with compressed
air. 19. Mask off the tire. 20. Finish the wheel with Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane and Ditzler
Ultra-Urethane Additive or the equivalent using the following three coats.
Refer to the labels for specific instructions. ^
First coat-light mist coat, let flash.
^ Second coat-light, let flash.
^ Third coat-heavy double wet coat.
21. Let the wheel dry for 24 hours (or flash for 30 minutes, force dry at 60° C (140° F) for 30
minutes, and allow to cool for 30 minutes before
mounting.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Balance the wheel and the tire assembly. 2. Replace the original balance weights with nylon
coated weights in order to avoid discoloration of the wheel. 3. Install the tire and the wheel
assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Specifications
Wheel Bearing: Specifications
This vehicle uses a sealed wheel bearing and lubricating grease is not required.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 28733-B Front Hub Spindle Remover
1. Remove the drive axle. Refer to WHEEL DRIVE SHAFTS REPLACEMENT in Drive Axles,
Bearings and Joints. 2. Remove brake caliper bolts and support caliper. Refer to BRAKE CALIPER
REPLACEMENT in BRAKES. 3. Remove the rotor. Refer to ROTOR REPLACEMENT in
HYDRAULIC BRAKES.
4. Remove the bolts (1) from the hub and bearing assembly (3).
5. Remove the hub and bearing assembly (1) from the steering knuckle (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 8615
1. Install the hub and bearing assembly (1) into the steering knuckle (2).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the hub and bearing bolts (1) and washers (2).
Tighten Tighten the bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the rotor. Refer to ROTOR REPLACEMENT in HYDRAULIC BRAKES. 4. Install the brake
caliper and bolts. Refer to BRAKE CALIPER REPLACEMENT in BRAKES. 5. Install the drive axle.
Refer to WHEEL DRIVE SHAFTS REPLACEMENT in DRIVE AXLES, BEARINGS AND JOINTS.
6. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS in WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 8616
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear
REAR HUB AND/OR BEARINGS
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL
REMOVAL.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum as damage to the bearing could result.
3. Remove the brake drum. Refer To BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. 4. Remove the hub and
bearing assembly (4) from the axle (2). The top rear attaching bolt (5) and nut (1) will not clear the
brake shoe (3) when
removing the hub and bearing assembly. Partially remove the hub and bearing assembly prior to
removing this bolt.
5. Disconnect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 2. Install the hub and bearing
assembly (4). Position the top rear attaching bolt (5) in the hub and bearing assembly prior to the
installation in the axle
assembly (2).
Tighten Tighten the hub and bearing to axle bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Install the brake drum. Refer to BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. 4. Install the tire and wheel
assemblies. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 5. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information >
Specifications
Wheel Cover: Specifications
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component
Information > Specifications > Front
Axle Nut: Specifications
Drive Axle Nut 200 Nm (144 ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component
Information > Specifications > Front > Page 8625
Axle Nut: Specifications
Rear Hub and Bearing to Axle Bolts 60 Nm (44 ft.lb)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > NHTSA97V219000 > Nov > 97 > Recall 97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe
Inspection
Wheel Fastener: Recalls Recall 97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Year: 1998 Make: CHEVROLET, PONTIAC Model: CAVALIER, SUNFIRE Year of Recall: '97 Type
of Report: Vehicle Potential Number of Units Affected: 24 Summary:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. The wheel lug nuts were not tightened securely resulting
in a fracture of the wheel studs.
The wheel could separate from the vehicle. If the vehicle were in motion, a vehicle crash could
result.
Dealers will inspect and replace the brake pipe.
Dealer notification began November 21, 1997. All vehicles are still at dealers. No owners are
involved.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: Customer Interest Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Loose/Missing > Page 8639
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 8645
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > NHTSA97V219000 > Nov > 97 >
Recall 97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Year: 1998 Make: CHEVROLET, PONTIAC Model: CAVALIER, SUNFIRE Year of Recall: '97 Type
of Report: Vehicle Potential Number of Units Affected: 24 Summary:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. The wheel lug nuts were not tightened securely resulting
in a fracture of the wheel studs.
The wheel could separate from the vehicle. If the vehicle were in motion, a vehicle crash could
result.
Dealers will inspect and replace the brake pipe.
Dealer notification began November 21, 1997. All vehicles are still at dealers. No owners are
involved.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 8655
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > NHTSA97V219000 > Nov > 97 > Recall
97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 97V219000: Wheels/Brake Pipe Inspection
Year: 1998 Make: CHEVROLET, PONTIAC Model: CAVALIER, SUNFIRE Year of Recall: '97 Type
of Report: Vehicle Potential Number of Units Affected: 24 Summary:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. The wheel lug nuts were not tightened securely resulting
in a fracture of the wheel studs.
The wheel could separate from the vehicle. If the vehicle were in motion, a vehicle crash could
result.
Dealers will inspect and replace the brake pipe.
Dealer notification began November 21, 1997. All vehicles are still at dealers. No owners are
involved.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Specifications > Tightening Torque
Wheel Fastener: Specifications Tightening Torque
All Wheel Nuts .....................................................................................................................................
............................................... 140 N.m (100 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Specifications > Tightening Torque > Page 8663
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 8664
Wheel Fastener: Description and Operation
All models use metric wheel nuts and wheel studs. The nut will have the word metric stamped on
the face and the stud will have the letter M stamped into the threaded end. The word metric is
stamped on the head.
The thread size of the metric wheel nuts and wheel studs are M 12 x 1.5 This signifies:
^ M = Metric
^ 12 = Diameter in millimeters
^ 1.5 = Millimeters per thread
If a broken stud is found, refer to FRONT SUSPENSION or DRIVE AXLE for the replacement
procedure.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair Front Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 6627-A Wheel Stud Remover
- J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover
1. Remove the hub and bearing assembly (2). Refer to WHEEL BEARING AND WHEEL HUB
REPLACEMENT. 2. Remove the wheel stud (1) from the hub and bearing assembly using the J
6627-A. 3. Discard the stud.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new wheel stud (1) into the hub and bearing assembly (2). 2. Install the flat washers
(3) and nut, flat side down, onto the wheel stud. Tighten until the wheel stud is fully seated. 3.
Install the hub and bearing assembly. Refer to WHEEL BEARING AND WHEEL HUB
REPLACEMENT. 4. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to MEASURING WHEEL ALIGNMENT
(FRONT ALIGNMENT ANGLES).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 8667
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tools Required: J 6627-A Wheel Stud Remover
1. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 2. Remove the brake
drum. Refer to BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum as damage to the bearing could result.
3. Remove the wheel stud (2) using the J 6627-A. 4. Discard the wheel stud (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new stud from the back side of the hub.
2. Install the four flat washers (1) on the hub. 3. Install the wheel nut (2) with the flat side toward the
washers (1). 4. Tighten the nut (2) until the stud head is properly seated in the hub flange. 5.
Remove the nut (2) and the washers (1). 6. Install the brake drum. Refer to BRAKE DRUM
REPLACEMENT. 7. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications
Accumulator HVAC: Specifications A/C Accumulator Torque Specifications
A/C Accumulator Torque Specifications
A/C Accumulator Bracket Nut 89 in.lb
A/C Accumulator Retaining Clamp Bolt 71 in.lb
A/C Accumulator Bracket Bolt 44 in.lb
A/C Accumulator Inlet Fitting 18 ft.lb
A/C Accumulator Outlet Fitting 18 ft.lb
A/C Accumulator Tube to Evaporator 18 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8672
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8673
Accumulator HVAC: Description and Operation
Downstream of the evaporator outlet pipe, the sealed accumulator assembly functions as a
liquid/vapor separator. It receives refrigerant vapor, along with some liquid refrigerant and
refrigerant oil from the evaporator. It allows only refrigerant vapor and oil to pass on to the
compressor.
At the bottom of the accumulator is the desiccant bag. It acts as a drying agent for moisture that
may have entered the system. An oil bleed hole is located near the bottom of the accumulator
outlet pipe to provide an oil return path to the compressor.
If the system is open to air for an extended period of time (due to a front-end collision, removed
parts, etc.) replace the accumulator. The desiccant bag will be saturated with moisture. The
accumulator is serviced by replacement only. The accumulator is located in the right hand corner of
the engine compartment and is attached to the front of dash.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8674
Accumulator HVAC: Service and Repair
The accumulator assembly service replacement part includes O-rings (as necessary) for
connections. The desiccant within the shell is NOT serviced separately - it is part of the sealed
accumulator assembly.
The accumulator assembly should be replaced ONLY when the shell is perforated and a refrigerant
leak is found, or the system has been open to the atmosphere for an extended period.
Accumulators do not require periodic replacement due to the following changes:
^ Use of improved desiccant.
^ Use of improved hose material and increased use of metal lines, both of which reduces the ability
of moisture to enter the refrigerant system.
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Recover refrigerant. 3. Cruise control stepper motor bracket, and
position aside. (if equipped). 4. Refrigerant lines at the accumulator. Discard O-ring seals. 5. Clamp
on accumulator bracket and accumulator.
Install or Connect
1. Accumulator and bracket clamp.
Tighten ^
Screw to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
Important ^
Add required amount of new refrigerant oil.
2. Refrigerant lines at the accumulator using new O-ring seals.
Tighten ^
Fitting to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
3. Cruise control stepper motor bracket. 4. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8675
5. Evacuate and charge the A/C system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Locations
HVAC Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8680
(2 Of 2)
The vacuum actuators are located under the instrument panel and attached to the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Air Inlet (Recirculation) Vacuum Actuator
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Air Inlet (Recirculation) Vacuum Actuator
HVAC Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Air Inlet (Recirculation) Vacuum Actuator > Page 8683
(2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Air Inlet (Recirculation) Vacuum Actuator > Page 8684
HVAC Module - Top And Left View
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument panel trim pad. 3. Passenger side SIR module. 4. Vacuum
hose from actuator. 5. Clip attaching actuator to the module. 6. Actuator arm from the valve. 7.
Actuator from the vehicle.
Install or Connect
1. Actuator arm to the valve.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Air Inlet (Recirculation) Vacuum Actuator > Page 8685
2. Actuator to the module, snap into place. 3. Vacuum hose to the actuator. 4. Passenger side SIR
module. 5. Instrument panel trim pad. 6. Negative battery cable
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Air Inlet (Recirculation) Vacuum Actuator > Page 8686
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Air Distribution Valve Actuators
Mode Valve Vacuum Actuator
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Air Inlet (Recirculation) Vacuum Actuator > Page 8687
(2 Of 2)
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Left sound insulator. 3. Instrument panel trim pad. 4. Air distribution
duct. 5. Actuator and actuator rod from module. 6. Vacuum hoses from actuator. 7. Vacuum
actuator from the vehicle.
Install or Connect
1. Vacuum actuator from below. 2. Vacuum hoses to actuator. 3. Actuator rod to module (from
above). 4. Air distribution duct. 5. Instrument Panel trim pad. 6. Left sound insulator. 7. Negative
battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Defrost Valve Vacuum Actuator
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Air Inlet (Recirculation) Vacuum Actuator > Page 8688
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Air Inlet (Recirculation) Vacuum Actuator > Page 8689
(2 Of 2)
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument panel trim pad. 3. Passenger side SIR module. 4. Vacuum
hose from actuator. 5. Clip attaching actuator to the module. 6. Actuator arm from the valve. 7.
Actuator from the vehicle.
Install or Connect
1. Actuator arm to the valve. 2. Actuator to the module, snap into place. 3. Vacuum hose to the
actuator. 4. Passenger side SIR module. 5. Instrument Panel trim pad. 6. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Cable, HVAC > Component
Information > Locations
Air Door Cable: Locations
The temperature control cable is attached to the right of the HVAC module heater case.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Cable, HVAC > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8693
Air Door Cable: Service and Repair
Remove or Disconnect
1. Right sound insulator panel. 2. Cable from module. 3. Instrument panel trim plate. 4. Heater and
A/C control and pull rearward. 5. Cable from heater and A/C control.
Install or Connect
1. Cable to heater and A/C control. 2. Heater and A/C control to Instrument Panel.
Tighten ^
Screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
3. Instrument Panel Trim plate. 4. Cable to module. 5. Right sound insulator panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Specifications
Air Duct: Specifications Air Distribution Ducts and Outlet Torque Specifications
Air Distribution Ducts and Outlet Torque Specifications
Rear Floor Duct Or Outlet Nut 9 ft.lb
Rear Floor Outlet Screw 53 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Locations > Rear Floor
Duct
Air Duct: Locations Rear Floor Duct
The rear floor outlet duct is located under the console and floor carpeting.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Locations > Rear Floor
Duct > Page 8699
Air Duct: Locations Defroster Duct
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Locations > Rear Floor
Duct > Page 8700
(2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Locations > Page 8701
Air Duct: Description and Operation
A system of ducts and outlets directs air from the HVAC module to the passenger compartment. In
cases of poor air output, defroster, heater, A/C and vent ducts should be checked for obstructions
or other objects which may have fallen into the ducts, air inlet, or cowl panel screen. Vehicles are
equipped with side window defoggers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Front
Air Duct: Service and Repair Front
It is necessary to partially remove portions of the Instrument Panel assembly to gain access to the
air distribution ducts as required.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument panel trim. 3. Air distribution duct.
Install or Connect
1. Air distribution duct. 2. Instrument Panel trim. 3. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Front > Page 8704
Air Duct: Service and Repair Rear Floor
Remove or Disconnect
1. Console. 2. Floor carpeting partially removed to rear of front seat. 3. Rear floor duct or outlet.
Install or Connect
1. Rear floor duct or outlet.
Tighten ^
Nut to 2 N.m (9 lb ft).
2. Floor carpeting. 3. Console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Specifications
Blower Motor: Specifications Blower Motor Torque Specifications
Blower Motor Torque Specifications
Blower Motor Screws 44 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations >
Blower Motor and Fan Assembly
Blower Motor: Locations Blower Motor and Fan Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations >
Blower Motor and Fan Assembly > Page 8710
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations >
Blower Motor and Fan Assembly > Page 8711
The blower motor and fan are located in the lower right corner of the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations >
Blower Motor and Fan Assembly > Page 8712
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations > Page
8713
Blower Motor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations > Page
8714
Blower Motor: Description and Operation
The blower moves air across the HVAC module case and through the evaporator. The evaporator
dehumidifies the air and the resulting moisture is expelled through a drain at the front of dash.The
blower speed is controlled by the position of the blower speed switch and dictated by a resistor in
the electrical circuit.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations > Page
8715
Blower Motor: Service and Repair
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations > Page
8716
(2 Of 2)
The blower motor and fan are serviced as an assembly only.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Right sound insulator. 3. Electrical connections at blower motor. 4.
Blower motor retaining screws. 5. Blower motor and fan assembly.
Install or Connect
1. Blower motor and fan assembly. 2. Retaining screws.
Tighten ^
Screws to 5 N.m (45 lb in).
3. Electrical connections. 4. Right sound insulator. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Specifications
Blower Motor Resistor: Specifications Blower Motor Resistor Torque Specifications
Blower Motor Resistor Torque Specifications
Blower Motor Resistor Screws 9 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8720
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8721
Blower Resistor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8722
Blower Motor Resistor: Service and Repair
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8723
(2 Of 2)
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Right sound insulator. 3. Blower motor Refer to Blower Motor and Fan
Assembly. 4. Cut portion of dash mat to gain access to the rear resistor screw. 5. Electrical
connections at blower resistor. 6. Blower resistor screws and resistor.
Install or Connect
1. Blower resistor and resistor screws.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
2. Replace portion of dash mat cut in removal procedure. 3. Electrical connections at blower
resistor. 4. Blower motor.
Tighten ^
Screws to 5 N.m (45 lb in).
5. Right sound insulator. 6. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Blower Motor Switch: Service and Repair
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument Panel trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate in instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console. 3. Control assembly screws and pull control assembly away from the
instrument Panel. 4. Blower switch knob. 5. Electrical connection. 6. Blower switch retaining screws
and blower switch.
Install or Connect
1. Blower switch and retaining screws.
Tighten ^
Screws fully driven, seated and not stripped.
2. Electrical connection. 3. Blower switch knob. 4. Control assembly and retaining screws.
Tighten ^
Screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
5. Instrument Panel trim plate. 6. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications
Compressor Clutch: Specifications A/C Compressor Clutch Air Gap Specification
A/C Compressor Clutch Air Gap Specification
A/C Clutch Air Gap 0.015 - 0.020 in
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8731
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8732
A/C Compressor Clutch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8733
Compressor Clutch: Service and Repair
Removing Shaft Nut
Clutch Plate And Hub Assembly Removal
Remove or Disconnect
1. Clamp the holding fixture J 34992 in a vise and attach compressor to holding fixture with thumb
screws J 34992-1. 2. Keep the clutch hub and drive plate assembly from turning by using the clutch
hub holding tool J 33027-A. Remove the shaft nut using shaft nut
socket J 33022.
3. Thread the Clutch Plate and Hub Assembly Remover J 33013-B into the hub. Hold the body of
the remover with a wrench and turn the center
screw into the remover body to remove the clutch plate and hub assembly.
4. Remove the shaft key and retain for reassembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8734
Shaft Key, Clutch Plate/Hub Installation
Installing Clutch Plate & Hub Assembly
Install or Connect
1. Install the shaft key into the hub key groove. Allow the key to project approximately 3.2 mm
(1/8") out of the keyway. The shaft key is curved
slightly to provide an interference fit in the hub key groove.
2. Be sure the frictional surface of the clutch plate and the clutch rotor are clean before installing
the clutch plate and hub assembly. 3. Align the shaft key with the shaft keyway and place the clutch
plate and the hub assembly onto the compressor shaft.
NOTICE: Do not drive or pound on the clutch hub or shaft. Internal damage to compressor may
result.
4. Remove the J 33013-B remover-installer center screw and reverse the body direction on the
center screw as shown in the illustration. 5. Install the clutch plate and hub installer J 33013-B with
bearing as shown in the illustration.
The body of the J 33013-B installer should be backed off sufficiently to allow the center screw to be
threaded onto the end of the compressor shaft.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8735
6. Hold the center screw with a wrench. Tighten the hex portion of the installer J 33013-B body to
press the hub onto the shaft. Tighten the body
several turns, remove the installer and check to see that the shaft key is still in place in the keyway
before installing the clutch plate and hub assembly to its final position. The air gap between
frictional surfaces of the clutch plate and clutch rotor should be 0.40-0.50mm (0.015-0.020"). ^
If the center screw is threaded fully onto the end of the compressor shaft, or if the body of the
installer is held and the center screw is rotated, the key will assume the position as shown in the
illustration and will break the clutch hub.
7. Remove installer J 33013-B, check for proper positioning of the shaft key (even or slightly above
the clutch hub). Install the shaft nut. Hold the
clutch plate and hub assembly with clutch hub holding tool J 33027-A and using shaft nut socket J
33022, tighten the nut against the crankshaft shoulder to 16.5 N.m (12 lbs.ft.) torque, using a
torque wrench.
8. Spin the pulley rotor by hand to see that the rotor is not rubbing the clutch drive plate.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Locations
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Remove
Compressor Clutch Bearing: Service and Repair Remove
Removing Pulley Rotor & Bearing Assembly Retaining Ring
Installing Pulley Rotor/Bearing Puller Guide
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Remove > Page 8741
Removing Pulley Rotor And Bearing Assembly
Pulley Rotor Bearing Removal
Remove or Disconnect
1. Remove the clutch plate and hub assembly as described previously. 2. Remove rotor and
bearing assembly retaining ring, using snap ring pliers J 6083. 3. Install pulley rotor and bearing
puller guide J 33023-A to the front head and install J 33020 pulley rotor and bearing puller down
into the inner
circle of slots in the rotor. Turn the J 33020 puller clockwise in the slots to engage the puller tangs
with the segments between the slots in the rotor.
4. Hold the J 33020 puller in place and tighten the puller screw against the puller guide to remove
the pulley rotor and bearing assembly. 5. To prevent damage to the pulley rotor during bearing
removal the rotor hub must be properly supported.
Remove the forcing screw from J 33020 puller and, with the puller tangs still engaged in the rotor
slots, invert the assembly onto a solid flat surface or blocks as shown in the illustration.
6. Drive the bearing out of the rotor hub with rotor bearing remover J 9398-A and J 29886 universal
handle.
NOTICE: It is not necessary to remove the staking in front of the bearing to remove the bearing,
however, it will be necessary to file away the old stake metal for proper clearance for the new
bearing to be installed into the rotor bore or the bearing may be damaged
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Remove > Page 8742
Compressor Clutch Bearing: Service and Repair Replace
Installing Pulley Rotor Bearing
Staking Bearing In Rotor Hub Bore
Bearing Staked In Place
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Remove > Page 8743
Installing Pulley Rotor And Bearing Assembly
Removing Pulley Rotor & Bearing Assembly Retaining Ring
Install or Connect
1. Place the pulley rotor on the J 21352-A support block to fully support the rotor hub during
bearing installation.
NOTICE: Do Not support the rotor by resting the pulley rim on a flat surface during the bearing
installation or the rotor face will be bent.
2. Align the new bearing squarely with the hub bore and using puller and bearing installer J 9481-A
with universal handle J 29886, drive the bearing
fully into the hub. The installer will apply force to the outer race of the bearing if used as shown.
3. Place bearing staking guide J 33019-1 and bearing staking pin J 33019 in the hub bore as
shown in the illustration. Shift the rotor and bearing
assembly on the J 21352-A support block to give full support of the hub under the staking pin
location. A heavy-duty rubber band may be used to hold the stake pin in the guide, and the stake
pin should be properly positioned in the guide after each impact on the pin.
4. Using care to prevent personal injury, strike the staking pin with a hammer until a metal stake,
similar to the original, is formed down to but not
touching the bearing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Remove > Page 8744
The stake metal should not contact the outer face of the bearing to prevent the possibility of
distorting the outer race. Stake three (3) places 120° apart as shown in the illustration.
5. With the compressor mounted to the J 34992 holding fixture, position the rotor and bearing
assembly on the front head. 6. Position the J 33017 pulley rotor and bearing installer and J
33023-A puller pilot directly over the inner race of the bearing. 7. Position puller crossbar J 8433-1
on the puller pilot J 33023-A and assemble the two J 34992-2 through bolts and washers through
the puller bar
slots and thread them into the J 34992 holding fixture. The thread of the through bolts should
engage the full thickness of the holding fixture.
8. Tighten the center screw in the J 8433-1 puller crossbar to force the pulley rotor and bearing
assembly onto the compressor front head. Should the
J 33017 pulley rotor and bearing installer slip off direct in-line contact with the inner face of the
bearing, loosen the J 8433-3 center forcing screw and realign the installer and pilot so that the J
33017 installer will properly clear the front head.
9. Install rotor and bearing assembly retainer ring, using snap ring pliers J 6083.
10. Reinstall clutch plate and hub assembly as described previously.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Coil > Component
Information > Locations
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Coil > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8748
Compressor Clutch Coil: Service and Repair
Clutch Coil Assembly Removal
Installing Clutch Coil Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Coil > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8749
Staking Clutch To Front Head
Details Of Stakes In Front Head For Clutch Coil
Remove or Disconnect
1. Perform Steps 1 through 4 of "Clutch Rotor and/or Bearings" removal procedure. Mark clutch coil
terminal location on compressor front head. 2. Install J 33023-A puller pilot on front head of
compressor. Also install J 8433-1 puller crossbar with J 33025 puller legs as shown in the
illustration.
3. Tighten J 8433-3 forcing screw against the puller pilot to remove the clutch coil.
Install or Connect
1. Place the clutch coil assembly on the front head with the terminals positioned at the "marked"
location. 2. Place the J 33024 clutch coil installer over the internal opening of the clutch coil
housing and align installer with the compressor front head. 3. Center the J 8433-1 puller crossbar
in the countersunk center hole of the J 33024 clutch coil installer. Install the J34992-2 through bolts
and
washers through the crossbar slots and thread them, into the holding fixture J 34992 to full fixture
thickness.
4. Turn the center forcing screw of the J 8433-1 puller crossbar to force the clutch coil onto the
front head. Be sure clutch coil and J 33024 installer
stay "in-line" during installation.
5. When coil is fully seated on the front head, use a 1/8" diameter drift punch and stake the front
head at three (3) places 120° apart, to ensure clutch
coil remaining in position. ^
Stake size should be only one half the area of the punch tip and only approximately 0.28-035mm
(0.010-0.015") deep.
6. Install rotor and bearing assembly and the clutch plate and hub assembly according as
described previously. 7. Install shaft nut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Control Valve Assembly
> Component Information > Locations
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Control Valve Assembly
> Component Information > Locations > Page 8753
Compressor Control Valve Assembly: Service and Repair
V-5 Compressor
Tools Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station. J 5403 Internal Snap
Ring Pliers.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Recover refrigerant. 3. Raise vehicle. 4. Control valve retaining ring
using J 5403. 5. Control valve.
Install or Connect
1. Control valve. 2. Control valve retaining ring using J 5403. 3. Lower vehicle. 4. Evacuate and
recharge refrigerant system. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Locations
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8757
Compressor Shaft Seal: Testing and Inspection
Seal Leak Detection
A shaft seal should not be changed because of small amounts of oil found on an adjacent surface.
The seal is designed to leak some oil for lubrication purposes. A shaft seal should be changed only
when a large amount of sprayed oil is found, and only after actual refrigerant leakage is found by
using an approved leak detector, J 39400 or equivalent.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8758
Compressor Shaft Seal: Service and Repair
Seal Leak Detection
A shaft seal should not be changed because of small amounts of oil found on an adjacent surface.
The seal is designed to leak some oil for lubrication purposes. A shaft seal should be changed only
when a large amount of sprayed oil is found, and only after actual refrigerant leakage is found by
using an approved leak detector, J 39400 or equivalent.
Removing Or Installing Shaft Seal Retaining Ring
Removing Shaft Seal
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8759
Removing Shaft Seal O-Ring
Compressor Shaft Seal
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM. 2. Loosen and reposition compressor in mounting
brackets. 3. Remove clutch plate and hub assembly from compressor as described in minor
repairs. 4. Remove the shaft seal retainer ring, using snap ring pliers J 5403. 5. Thoroughly clean
inside of compressor neck area surrounding the shaft. tile exposed portion of the seal. the shaft
itself and O-ring groove. Any
dirt or foreign material getting into compressor may cause damage.
6. Fully engage the knurled tangs of seal remover-installer J2312-A into the recessed portion of the
seal by turning the handle clockwise. Remove the
seal from the compressor with a rotary-pulling motion. Discard the seal. The handle should be
hand-tightened securely. Do not use a wrench or pliers.
7. Remove and discard the seal O-ring from the compressor neck using O-ring remover J 9553-01.
8. Recheck the shaft and inside of the compressor neck for dirt or foreign material and be sure
these areas are perfectly clean before installing new
parts.
Clean
1. Thoroughly clean seal O-ring groove in front head.
NOTICE: Seals should not be re-used. Always use a new specification service seal kit. Be sure that
the seal to be installed is not scratched or damaged in any way. Make sure that the seal is free of
lint and dirt that could damage the seal surface or prevent sealing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8760
Installing Shaft Seal O-Ring
Lip Seal Installed On Seal Protector
Removing Or Installing Shaft Seal Retaining Ring
Install or Connect
1. Dip the new seal O-ring in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and assemble onto O-ring installer J
33011. "New".
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8761
2. Insert the O-ring installer J 33011 into the compressor neck until the installer "bottoms." Lower
the moveable slide of the O-ring installer to
release the O-ring into the seal O-ring lower groove. (The compressor neck top groove is for the
shaft seal retainer ring.) Rotate the installer to seat the O-ring and remove the installer.
3. Dip the new seal in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and assemble seal to Seal Installer J
23128-A, by turning handle clockwise. The stamped
steel case side of the lip seal must be engaged with knurled tangs of installer so that flared-out side
of lip seal is facing and installed towards the compressor. Install shaft seal protector J 34614 on the
lip seal. Place the seal protector J 34614 over end of compressor shaft, and slide the new seal onto
the shaft with a rotary motion until it stops. Take care not to dislodge the O-ring. Be sure the seal
makes good contact with the O-ring. Disengage the installer from the seal and remove the installer
J 23128-A and the shaft seal protector J 34614.
NOTICE: Handling and care of seal protector is important. If seal protector is nicked or the bottom
flared. the new seal may be damaged during installation.
4. Install the new seal retainer ring with its flat side against the seal, using snap-ring pliers J 5403.
Use the sleeve from O-ring installer J 33011 to
press in on the seal retainer ring so that it snaps into its groove.
5. To leak test. install compressor leak test fixture J 39893 on rear head of compressor and
connect gage charging lines using J 39500-GM
Refrigerant Recovery System or equivalent. Pressurize suction and high-side of compressor with
R134a Refrigerant. Temporarily install the shaft nut and, with the compressor in horizontal position.
rotate the compressor shaft in normal direction of rotation several turns by hand. Leak test the seal
area and correct any leak found. Recover refrigerant. Remove shaft nut.
6. Remove any excess oil resulting from installing the new seal parts from the shaft and inside the
compressor neck. 7. Install the clutch plate and hub assembly as described in minor repair
procedures. 8. Reinstall the compressor, belt and tighten bracket. 9. Evacuate and charge the
refrigerant system using J 39500-GM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Diode HVAC > Component Information
> Locations
Compressor Clutch Diode HVAC: Locations
In the engine harness approximately 21 cm (8 in) from the A/C compressor clutch connector
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component Information >
Locations
Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations
A/C COMPRESSOR CONTROL RELAY
Fuse Block Details
The A/C Compressor Control Relay is located in the Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center. The
Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center is located in the left front of the engine compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component Information >
Locations > Page 8768
Compressor Clutch Relay: Description and Operation
The A/C compressor control relay is designed to disengage the A/C compressor clutch
momentarily during start-up on a warm engine. The relay is PCM controlled. Voltage is supplied
from the A/C power feed circuit and the PCM completes the ground to close a set of normally
opened points. This turns the compressor clutch ON. The PCM opens the ground circuit when an
engine run signal is sensed with coolant temperature at a specified amount.
On a warm engine start-up, a time delay of about 3 seconds allows the engine speed to stabilize
before the compressor engages.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications
Condenser HVAC: Specifications
A/C Compressor and Condenser Hose Bolt to Rear of Compressor 24 ft.lb
A/C Condenser Inlet From Evaporator Fitting Nut 12 ft.lb
A/C Condenser Outlet Fitting Nut 12 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8772
Condenser HVAC: Description and Operation
The condenser in front of the radiator is made up of coils which carry the refrigerant. Cooling fins
provide rapid transfer of heat. Air passing through the condenser cools the high-pressure,
high-temperature refrigerant vapor, causing it to condense into a liquid.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8773
Condenser HVAC: Service and Repair
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling,
Discharging, Adding Oil, Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 3. Upper closeout
panel. 4. Hood latch from mounting plate. 5. Right and left headlamp assemblies. 6. Raise vehicle.
7. Disconnect forward SIR sensor harness. 8. Lower vehicle. 9. Right radiator mount.
10. Hood latch support bracket & forward sensor w/harness. 11. Compressor hose and evaporator
line from the condenser, discard O-rings.
Important ^
Use back-up wrench to prevent twisting of block fitting.
12. Condenser.
Install or Connect
1. Condenser in vehicle. 2. Compressor hose and evaporator line to condenser, using new O-rings.
Tighten
^ Nuts to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Important ^
Use back-up wrench to prevent twisting of block fitting.
3. Hood latch support bracket & forward sensor w/harness. 4. Right radiator mount. 5. Raise
vehicle. 6. Connect forward SIR sensor harness. 7. Lower vehicle. 8. Right and left headlamp
assemblies. 9. Hood latch assembly and adjust.
10. Upper closeout panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8774
11. Recharge A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil,
Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 12. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications
Control Assembly: Specifications Heater and A/C Control Torque Specifications
Heater and A/C Control Torque Specifications
Heater And A/C Control Screws 18 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Heater A/C and Rear Defogger Control Assembly
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Heater A/C and Rear Defogger Control Assembly > Page 8780
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Heater-A/C and Rear Defogger Control Assembly
Control Assembly: Diagrams Heater-A/C and Rear Defogger Control Assembly
Heater - A/C And Rear Defogger Control Assembly (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Heater-A/C and Rear Defogger Control Assembly > Page 8783
Heater - A/C And Rear Defogger Control Assembly (C2)
Heater - A/C And Rear Defogger Control Assembly (C3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Heater-A/C and Rear Defogger Control Assembly > Page 8784
Heater - A/C And Rear Defogger Control Assembly (C1) (W/C49)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 8785
Control Assembly: Description and Operation
The five modes of the base heater system (Vent, Heat, Defrost, Bi-Level and Blend) are controlled
by the functional assemblies within the heater module. These assemblies are defined below:
1. Motor and Fan Assembly (Blower).
^ Provides and regulates air flow from the air inlet for further processing and or distribution.
2. Heater Core.
^ Transfers heat from engine coolant to inlet air, thus heating the inlet air.
3. Temperature Valve.
^ Regulates the amount of air passing through the heater core, thus controlling the temperature
and mix of heated and ambient air.
4. Mode and Defrost and Heat Valves.
^ Regulate the flow and distribution of processed air to the distribution ducts.
The operation of these assemblies is controlled by the levers and switch on the control assembly.
The temperature lever operates a cable and the mode lever operates a vacuum control to select
the appropriate mode.
Four blower speeds are controllable in all functional modes by the switch on the control assembly.
Side window defogging is provided by ducts in the outboard corners of the instrument panel.
Maximum air flow from these vents will be in the Heater mode with reduced air flow in the Defrost
mode.
In the Heat, Bi-Level, Vent, Blend and Defrost mode outside air is driven by the blower to the
temperature valve which, dependent upon its position as controlled by be operator, distributes all or
some portion of the inlet air through the heater core. The air is heated, mixed and then directed into
either the defroster duct, vent or the heater outlet depending on the position of the mode defrost
and heat valves. A small amount of air is bled to the side window defogger system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 8786
Control Assembly: Service and Repair
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument panel trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate in instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console. 3. Heater and A/C control retaining screws and pull heater and A/C control
away from the instrument panel. 4. Electrical and vacuum connections. 5. Temperature control
cable from heater and A/C control.
Install or Connect
1. Temperature control cable to heater and A/C control. 2. Electrical and vacuum connections. 3.
Heater and A/C control and retaining screws to instrument panel.
Tighten ^
Screws to 2 Nm (18 lb in).
4. Instrument Panel trim plate. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information >
Description and Operation
Control Module HVAC: Description and Operation
The blower speed is controlled by a knob which actuates a switch. The blower circuit is open in the
OFF mode. In all other modes the blower has 4 speeds to control the amount of air that flows
through the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From
(HVAC) System
Evaporator Core: Customer Interest A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From (HVAC) System
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 99-01-39-004C
Date: June 12, 2009
Subject: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating)
Models:
1993-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 All
Equipped with Air Conditioning
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 and 2010 model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004B (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment about musty odors emitted from the Heating, Ventilation and Air
Conditioning (HVAC) system at vehicle start-up in hot, humid conditions.
Cause
This condition may be caused by condensate build-up on the evaporator core, which does not
evaporate by itself in high humidity conditions. The odor may be the result of microbial growth on
the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an
unpleasant musty odor into the passenger compartment.
There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water
leak into the interior of the vehicle or foreign material in the HVAC air distribution system. Follow
the procedures in SI for identifying and correcting water leaks and air inlet inspection.
The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the odor source has been determined
to be microbial growth on the evaporator core inside the HVAC module.
Correction
Many vehicles currently incorporate an afterblow function within the HVAC control module
software. The afterblow feature, when enabled, employs the HVAC blower fan to dry the
evaporator after vehicle shut down and this function will inhibit microbial growth. Technicians are to
confirm that the customer concern is evaporator core odor and that the vehicle has the imbedded
afterblow feature, as defined in the SI document for that specific vehicle model, model year and
specific HVAC option. Refer to SI for enabling the afterblow function. Vehicles being delivered in
areas prone to high humidity conditions may benefit from having the afterblow enabled calibration
installed prior to any customer comment.
Important If the vehicle is not factory equipped with the imbedded afterblow enable feature, it may
be added with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (P/N 12497910 or AC Delco 15-5876).
Important When installing the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module, you MUST use the included
electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice. Complete detailed installation instructions
and self testing procedures are supplied with the kit. If necessary, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer
Module may be installed underhood if it is protected from extreme heat and water splash areas.
To immediately remove the evaporator core odor on all suspect vehicles, it is necessary to
eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its re-occurrence. To accomplish this, perform the
following procedure:
Vehicle and Applicator Tool Preparation
1. The evaporator core must be dry. This may be accomplished by disabling the compressor and
running the blower fan on the recirc heat setting for
an extended period of time.
Note Compressor engagement will cause the evaporator core to remain wet and will prevent full
adherence of the Coiling Coil Coating to the evaporator core surfaces.
2. Verify that the air conditioning drain hose is not clogged and place a drain pan beneath the
vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From
(HVAC) System > Page 8798
3. Place a protective cover over the carpet below the evaporator core. 4. Remove the cabin air
filter, if equipped, and cover the opening prior to applying the Cooling Coil Coating, as the product
may clog the filter. If the
cabin air filter appears to have little or no remaining life, suggest a replacement to your customer.
5. If the HVAC module has a blower motor cooling tube, be careful NOT TO SPRAY THE
COOLING COIL COATING INTO THE
BLOWER MOTOR COOLING TUBE.
6. Attach the Flexible Applicator Pressure Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) to a compressed air line
operating at 586 kPa (85 psi) to 793 kPa (115 psi). 7. Shake the bottle of Cooling Coil Coating well.
Screw the bottle onto the cap on the applicator tool's pick-up tube.
Note The pick-up tube is designed for 120 ml (4 oz) and 240 ml (8 oz) bottles and should coil
slightly in the bottom of a 120 ml (4 oz) bottle.
8. Use one of the following three methods to apply the Cooling Coil Coating.
Important If the Pressure Applicator Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) is not available, the Cooling Coil
Coating is also available in an aerosol can (P/N 12377951 (in Canada, 10953503)).
Application Through Blower Motor Control Module Opening
- Remove the blower motor control module (blower motor resistor). Refer to the applicable
procedure in SI.
- Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core
surface.
- Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor blower
motor control module (blower motor resistor) opening.
- Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and
surrounding gasket surfaces.
- When the application is complete, install the blower motor blower motor control module (blower
motor control module).
Application Through Blower Motor Opening
- Remove the blower motor. Refer to the applicable blower motor removal procedure in SI.
- Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core
surface.
- Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor opening.
- Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and
surrounding gasket surfaces.
- When the application is complete, install the blower motor.
Application Through a Hole in the HVAC Module
- If neither of the two previous application methods are available, it may be necessary to drill a hole
in the HVAC module.
- Locate an area of the HVAC module between the blower motor and the evaporator core. Drill a 10
mm (3/8 in) hole in the HVAC module. Use caution to keep the drill clear of the evaporator core and
the blower motor fan.
- With the air distribution vents closed and the blower motor fan speed on HIGH, insert the
applicator tool into the hole and spray the Cooling Coil Coating into the airstream toward the
evaporator core.
- Use a GM approved RTV sealant to plug the hole in the HVAC module.
9. After the Cooling Coil Coating application is complete, start and run the vehicle for approximately
10 minutes, with the compressor disabled,
HVAC mode set to Recirculate/Max, heat set to full warm, blower motor fan speed on high, and
one window open approximately 12 mm (1/2 in). This cures the Cooling Coil Coating onto the
evaporator core surface.
10. While the engine is running, rinse the applicator tool with warm water to prolong the life of the
tool. Be sure to spray warm water through the
nozzle to rinse out any residual Cooling Coil Coating still in the capillary pick up tube, otherwise it
will dry and clog the applicator tool. Also remove the small green valve from the bottle cap and
rinse it thoroughly while rolling it between two fingers and then reinstall it. If this valve is clogged ,
the Cooling Coil Coating will not flow through the applicator tool.
11. Shut off the engine and enable the compressor again. 12. Verify proper HVAC system
operation. 13. Remove the protective cover from inside the vehicle. 14. Remove the drain pan from
underneath the vehicle. 15. Reinstall the cabin air filter if necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From
(HVAC) System > Page 8799
Parts Information
Important The Cooling Coil Coating listed below is the only GM approved product for use under
warranty as an evaporator core disinfectant and for the long term control of evaporator core
microbial growth.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors
Emitted From (HVAC) System
Evaporator Core: All Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From (HVAC) System
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 99-01-39-004C
Date: June 12, 2009
Subject: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating)
Models:
1993-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 All
Equipped with Air Conditioning
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 and 2010 model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004B (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment about musty odors emitted from the Heating, Ventilation and Air
Conditioning (HVAC) system at vehicle start-up in hot, humid conditions.
Cause
This condition may be caused by condensate build-up on the evaporator core, which does not
evaporate by itself in high humidity conditions. The odor may be the result of microbial growth on
the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an
unpleasant musty odor into the passenger compartment.
There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water
leak into the interior of the vehicle or foreign material in the HVAC air distribution system. Follow
the procedures in SI for identifying and correcting water leaks and air inlet inspection.
The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the odor source has been determined
to be microbial growth on the evaporator core inside the HVAC module.
Correction
Many vehicles currently incorporate an afterblow function within the HVAC control module
software. The afterblow feature, when enabled, employs the HVAC blower fan to dry the
evaporator after vehicle shut down and this function will inhibit microbial growth. Technicians are to
confirm that the customer concern is evaporator core odor and that the vehicle has the imbedded
afterblow feature, as defined in the SI document for that specific vehicle model, model year and
specific HVAC option. Refer to SI for enabling the afterblow function. Vehicles being delivered in
areas prone to high humidity conditions may benefit from having the afterblow enabled calibration
installed prior to any customer comment.
Important If the vehicle is not factory equipped with the imbedded afterblow enable feature, it may
be added with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (P/N 12497910 or AC Delco 15-5876).
Important When installing the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module, you MUST use the included
electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice. Complete detailed installation instructions
and self testing procedures are supplied with the kit. If necessary, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer
Module may be installed underhood if it is protected from extreme heat and water splash areas.
To immediately remove the evaporator core odor on all suspect vehicles, it is necessary to
eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its re-occurrence. To accomplish this, perform the
following procedure:
Vehicle and Applicator Tool Preparation
1. The evaporator core must be dry. This may be accomplished by disabling the compressor and
running the blower fan on the recirc heat setting for
an extended period of time.
Note Compressor engagement will cause the evaporator core to remain wet and will prevent full
adherence of the Coiling Coil Coating to the evaporator core surfaces.
2. Verify that the air conditioning drain hose is not clogged and place a drain pan beneath the
vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors
Emitted From (HVAC) System > Page 8805
3. Place a protective cover over the carpet below the evaporator core. 4. Remove the cabin air
filter, if equipped, and cover the opening prior to applying the Cooling Coil Coating, as the product
may clog the filter. If the
cabin air filter appears to have little or no remaining life, suggest a replacement to your customer.
5. If the HVAC module has a blower motor cooling tube, be careful NOT TO SPRAY THE
COOLING COIL COATING INTO THE
BLOWER MOTOR COOLING TUBE.
6. Attach the Flexible Applicator Pressure Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) to a compressed air line
operating at 586 kPa (85 psi) to 793 kPa (115 psi). 7. Shake the bottle of Cooling Coil Coating well.
Screw the bottle onto the cap on the applicator tool's pick-up tube.
Note The pick-up tube is designed for 120 ml (4 oz) and 240 ml (8 oz) bottles and should coil
slightly in the bottom of a 120 ml (4 oz) bottle.
8. Use one of the following three methods to apply the Cooling Coil Coating.
Important If the Pressure Applicator Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) is not available, the Cooling Coil
Coating is also available in an aerosol can (P/N 12377951 (in Canada, 10953503)).
Application Through Blower Motor Control Module Opening
- Remove the blower motor control module (blower motor resistor). Refer to the applicable
procedure in SI.
- Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core
surface.
- Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor blower
motor control module (blower motor resistor) opening.
- Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and
surrounding gasket surfaces.
- When the application is complete, install the blower motor blower motor control module (blower
motor control module).
Application Through Blower Motor Opening
- Remove the blower motor. Refer to the applicable blower motor removal procedure in SI.
- Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core
surface.
- Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor opening.
- Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and
surrounding gasket surfaces.
- When the application is complete, install the blower motor.
Application Through a Hole in the HVAC Module
- If neither of the two previous application methods are available, it may be necessary to drill a hole
in the HVAC module.
- Locate an area of the HVAC module between the blower motor and the evaporator core. Drill a 10
mm (3/8 in) hole in the HVAC module. Use caution to keep the drill clear of the evaporator core and
the blower motor fan.
- With the air distribution vents closed and the blower motor fan speed on HIGH, insert the
applicator tool into the hole and spray the Cooling Coil Coating into the airstream toward the
evaporator core.
- Use a GM approved RTV sealant to plug the hole in the HVAC module.
9. After the Cooling Coil Coating application is complete, start and run the vehicle for approximately
10 minutes, with the compressor disabled,
HVAC mode set to Recirculate/Max, heat set to full warm, blower motor fan speed on high, and
one window open approximately 12 mm (1/2 in). This cures the Cooling Coil Coating onto the
evaporator core surface.
10. While the engine is running, rinse the applicator tool with warm water to prolong the life of the
tool. Be sure to spray warm water through the
nozzle to rinse out any residual Cooling Coil Coating still in the capillary pick up tube, otherwise it
will dry and clog the applicator tool. Also remove the small green valve from the bottle cap and
rinse it thoroughly while rolling it between two fingers and then reinstall it. If this valve is clogged ,
the Cooling Coil Coating will not flow through the applicator tool.
11. Shut off the engine and enable the compressor again. 12. Verify proper HVAC system
operation. 13. Remove the protective cover from inside the vehicle. 14. Remove the drain pan from
underneath the vehicle. 15. Reinstall the cabin air filter if necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors
Emitted From (HVAC) System > Page 8806
Parts Information
Important The Cooling Coil Coating listed below is the only GM approved product for use under
warranty as an evaporator core disinfectant and for the long term control of evaporator core
microbial growth.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 8807
Evaporator Core: Specifications
A/C Accumulator Tube to Evaporator 18 ft.lb
A/C Condenser Inlet From Evaporator Fitting Nut 12 ft.lb
A/C Evaporator Clamp Screw 9 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Blower Motor and Evaporator
Evaporator Core: Description and Operation Blower Motor and Evaporator
The blower moves air across the HVAC module case and through the evaporator. The evaporator
dehumidifies the air and the resulting moisture is expelled through a drain at the front of dash.The
blower speed is controlled by the position of the blower speed switch and dictated by a resistor in
the electrical circuit.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Blower Motor and Evaporator > Page 8810
Evaporator Core: Description and Operation Refrigeration System
The evaporator is a device which cools and dehumidifies the air before it enters the passenger
compartment. High-pressure liquid refrigerant flows through the expansion tube, becomes a
low-pressure liquid, and then enters the evaporator. The heat in the air passing through the
evaporator core is transferred to the cooler surface of the core, thereby cooling the air. As the
process of heat transfer from the air to the evaporator core surface is taking place, any moisture
(humidity) in the air condenses on the outside surface of the evaporator core and is drained off as
water. The evaporator is located inside the HVAC module at the front of dash.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Page 8811
Evaporator Core: Service and Repair
HVAC Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Page 8812
(2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Page 8813
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-l34a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Recover refrigerant. 3. Drain cooling system. 4. Raise vehicle. 5.
Heater hoses from heater core. 6. Evaporator fittings from the evaporator and discard O-ring seals.
7. Moisture drain tube from HVAC module. 8. Lower vehicle. 9. Instrument panel and console.
10. Heater outlet cover and heater core cover.
^ There is a mounting screw located in a recess in the center of the cover.
11. Heater core mounting clamps and heater core. 12. Heater core shroud and evaporator core.
^ There is a mounting screw located at the middle of the front of dash.
Install or Connect
1. Evaporator.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
2. Heater core should heater core and heater core mounting clamp.
Tighten ^
Screw to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
3. Heater core cover and heater outlet cover.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
4. Instrument panel and console. 5. Raise vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Page 8814
6. Moisture drain tube to the HVAC module. 7. Evaporator fittings to evaporator using new O-ring
seals lubricated in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
Tighten ^
Fittings to 24 Nm (18 lb ft).
8. Heater hoses to heater core. 9. Lower vehicle.
10. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. 11. Evacuate and charge the A/C system. 12. Negative
battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Block/Orifice Tube > Component Information >
Locations
Expansion Block/Orifice Tube: Locations
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
The expansion tube (orifice) is located at the condenser to evaporator line connection in the
condenser.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Block/Orifice Tube > Component Information >
Locations > Page 8818
Expansion Block/Orifice Tube: Description and Operation
The expansion tube is a plastic assembly containing a fixed diameter tube with a mesh filter screen
at either end. It is located at the condenser outlet tube. The fixed diameter tube creates a restriction
to the high-pressure liquid refrigerant in the liquid line, metering the flow of refrigerant to the
evaporator as a low-pressure liquid. When the engine is turned OFF with the A/C system operating,
the refrigerant in the system will flow from the high-pressure side of the expansion tube (orifice) to
the low-pressure side until the pressure is equalized. This may be detected as a faint sound of
liquid flowing (hissing) for 30 to 60 seconds and is a normal condition.
When system diagnostics indicate a restricted expansion tube, it may not be necessary to replace
it. Metal chips, flakes or slivers found on the screen may be removed with compressed air and the
expansion tube may be reused if:
^ The plastic frame is not broken.
^ The brass expansion tube is not damaged or plugged.
^ The screen material is not torn.
^ The screen is not plugged with fine gritty material.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Block/Orifice Tube > Component Information >
Locations > Page 8819
Expansion Block/Orifice Tube: Service and Repair
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
Important ^
Different designs and colors of orifice tubes may have been used in past production vehicles.
When replacing an orifice tube, compare its design to the replacement part for correct orifice tube
selection. The different styles of orifice tubes ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE.
Tools Required:
J 26549-E Expansion Tube Remover J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and
Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil,
Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 2. Upper closeout panel. 3. Connection at
condenser. Discard O-ring seals. 4. Evaporator line from clip on body side rail. 5. Carefully remove
the expansion tube with needle-nose pliers, or tool J 26549-E.
^ In the event that difficulty is encountered during the removal of a restricted or plugged expansion
tube (orifice tube), the following procedure is recommended:
A. Remove as much of any impacted residue as possible. B. Carefully apply heat with heat gun
(hair drier, epoxy drier or equivalent) approximately 7 mm (1/4 inch) from dimples on inlet pipe. Do
not
overheat pipe.
C. While applying heat, use expansion tube removal tools or J 26549-E to grip the expansion tube.
Use a turning motion along with a push-pull
motion to loosen and remove to the impacted expansion tube.
Install or Connect
1. New expansion tube. 2. Evaporator line to clip. 3. Using new O-ring seals, assemble evaporator
tube/condenser connection.
Tighten ^
Nut to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
4. Upper closeout panel. 5. Evacuate and charge the system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and
Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil, Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant
System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
Heater Core: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-001A
Date: July 16, 2008
Subject: Information On Aluminum Heater Core and/or Radiator Replacement
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2003-2005
HUMMER H2
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-001 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important:
2004-05 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX-COOL(R). Refer to the
flushing procedure explained later in this bulletin.
The following information should be utilized when servicing aluminum heater core and/or radiators
on repeat visits. A replacement may be necessary because erosion, corrosion, or insufficient
inhibitor levels may cause damage to the heater core, radiator or water pump. A coolant check
should be performed whenever a heater core, radiator, or water pump is replaced. The following
procedures/ inspections should be done to verify proper coolant effectiveness.
Caution:
To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot.
The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if the radiator cap or surge
tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.
Important:
If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or the customer has repeatedly added coolant or water
to the system, then the system should be completely flushed using the procedure explained later in
this bulletin.
Technician Diagnosis
^ Verify coolant concentration. A 50% coolant/water solution ensures proper freeze and corrosion
protection. Inhibitor levels cannot be easily measured in the field, but can be indirectly done by the
measurement of coolant concentration. This must be done by using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale), or equivalent, coolant tester. The Refractometer
uses a minimal amount of coolant that can be taken from the coolant recovery reservoir, radiator or
the engine block. Inexpensive gravity float testers (floating balls) will not completely analyze the
coolant concentration fully and should not be used. The concentration levels should be between
50% and 65% coolant concentrate. This mixture will have a freeze point protection of -34 degrees
Fahrenheit (-37 degrees Celsius). If the concentration is below 50%, the cooling system must be
flushed.
^ Inspect the coolant flow restrictor if the vehicle is equipped with one. Refer to Service Information
(SI) and/or the appropriate Service Manual for component location and condition for operation.
^ Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system. This electrolysis test can be performed
before or after the system has been repaired. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test
lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure
the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that
stray current is finding its way into the coolant. Electrolysis is often an intermittent condition that
occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized. This type of current
could be caused from a poorly grounded cooling fan or some other accessory and can be verified
by watching the volt meter and turning on and off various accessories or engage the starter motor.
Before using one of the following flush procedures, the coolant recovery reservoir must be
removed, drained, cleaned and reinstalled before refilling the system.
Notice:
^ Using coolant other than DEX‐COOL(R) may cause premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles
(50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Always use DEX‐COOL(R) (silicate free) coolant in your vehicle.
^ If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The
repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and
crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 8824
Flushing Procedures using DEX-COOL(R)
Important:
The following procedure recommends refilling the system with DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in
Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. This coolant is orange in color and has a
service interval of 5 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi). However, when used on vehicles built prior
to the introduction of DEX-COOL(R), maintenance intervals will remain the same as specified in the
Owner's Manual.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling system flush and fill machine is not available, drain the coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system
using clear, drinkable water and run the vehicle until the thermostat opens. Repeat and run the
vehicle three (3) times to totally remove the old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear.
Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with
DEX‐COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% DEX-COOL(R),
P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. Then slowly add clear,
drinkable water (preferably distilled) to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached
the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and reverify the coolant level. If necessary, add
clean water to restore the coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, reverify the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. The concentration
levels should be between 50% and 65%.
Flushing Procedures using Conventional Silicated (Green Colored) Coolant
Important:
2004-2005 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX‐COOL(R).
The Aveo and Wave are filled with conventional, silicated engine coolant that is blue in color.
Silicated coolants are typically green in color and are required to be drained, flushed and refilled
every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). The Aveo and Wave are to be serviced with conventional, silicated
coolant. Use P/N 12378560 (1 gal) (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 (1 L). Refer to the Owner's
Manual or Service Information (SI) for further information on OEM coolant.
Important:
Do not mix the OEM orange colored DEX-COOL(R) coolant with green colored coolant when
adding coolant to the system or when servicing the vehicle's cooling system. Mixing the orange and
green colored coolants will produce a brown coolant which may be a customer dissatisfier and will
not extend the service interval to that of DEX-COOL(R). Conventional silicated coolants offered by
GM Service and Parts Operations are green in color.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling systems flush and fill machine is not available, drain coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using
clear, drinkable water and run vehicle until thermostat opens. Repeat and run vehicle three (3)
times to totally remove old coolant or until drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is
completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with a good quality
ethylene glycol base engine coolant, P/N 12378560, 1 gal (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 1 L),
conforming to GM specification 1825M, or recycled coolant conforming to GM specification 1825M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% good quality
ethylene glycol base (green colored) engine coolant, P/N 12378560 1 gal., (in Canada, use P/N
88862159 1 L) conforming to GM specification 1825M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water
(preferably distilled) to system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the
radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and recheck coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to
restore coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, recheck the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. Concentration levels
should be between 50% and 65%.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 8825
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8826
Heater Core: Specifications Heater Core Torque Specifications
Heater Core Torque Specifications
Heater Core Cover Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Core Shroud Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Core Strap Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Outlet Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Outlet Pipe Nut 18 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8827
Heater Core: Locations
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8828
(2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8829
Heater Core: Description and Operation
The heater core transfers heat from the engine coolant to the incoming air. The heater core is
located in the lower section of the heater module near the front of the dash.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8830
Heater Core: Service and Repair
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8831
(2 Of 2)
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain cooling system. 3. Heater hoses from heater core. 4. Instrument
Panel. 5. Heater core outlet. 6. Heater core cover.
^ There is a mounting screw located in a recess in the center of the cover
7. Heater core mounting clamps and beater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater core and heater core mounting clamps.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
2. Heater core cover.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
3. Heater core outlet.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
4. Instrument Panel. 5. Heater hoses to heater core. 6. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. 7.
Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8832
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Heater Hose: > 99-01-38-003 > Sep > 99 > Engine/Transmission - Whine at 2800-3200
RPM
Heater Hose: Customer Interest Engine/Transmission - Whine at 2800-3200 RPM
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-003
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine/Transmission Whine at 2800-3200 RPM (Replace Heater Inlet Hose)
Models: 1997-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO
LN2)
Condition Some customers may comment on a whine from the engine/transmission at 2800-3200
RPM.
Cause The production released heater inlet hose has an internal coolant flow restrictor. The flow of
the coolant through the restrictor may induce a whine/whistle. In some cases the flow restrictor may
migrate and come in contact with the heater core inlet tube. If the restrictor comes in contact with
the heater core inlet pipe the whine may become audible within the passenger compartment of the
vehicle.
Correction Replace the heater inlet hose (P/N 22615693). Use the procedure found in the HVAC
section of the Service Manual. The new part has a stainless steel clamp over the hose under the
insulator where the flow restrictor is positioned. If the clamp is missing on the hose, do not use. All
parts currently in GMSPO stock are of the new style.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22615693 Hose, Heater Inlet
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
D2774 Hose, Heater Rear Inlet 0.9 hr
(With Air Conditioning)
- Replace
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Heater Hose: > 99-01-38-003 > Sep > 99 > Engine/Transmission - Whine at
2800-3200 RPM
Heater Hose: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine/Transmission - Whine at 2800-3200 RPM
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-003
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine/Transmission Whine at 2800-3200 RPM (Replace Heater Inlet Hose)
Models: 1997-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO
LN2)
Condition Some customers may comment on a whine from the engine/transmission at 2800-3200
RPM.
Cause The production released heater inlet hose has an internal coolant flow restrictor. The flow of
the coolant through the restrictor may induce a whine/whistle. In some cases the flow restrictor may
migrate and come in contact with the heater core inlet tube. If the restrictor comes in contact with
the heater core inlet pipe the whine may become audible within the passenger compartment of the
vehicle.
Correction Replace the heater inlet hose (P/N 22615693). Use the procedure found in the HVAC
section of the Service Manual. The new part has a stainless steel clamp over the hose under the
insulator where the flow restrictor is positioned. If the clamp is missing on the hose, do not use. All
parts currently in GMSPO stock are of the new style.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22615693 Hose, Heater Inlet
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
D2774 Hose, Heater Rear Inlet 0.9 hr
(With Air Conditioning)
- Replace
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8846
Heater Hose: Specifications Heater Hose and Pipe Torque Specifications
Heater Hose and Pipe Torque Specifications
Heater Outlet Screws 9 in.lb
Heater Outlet Pipe Nut 18 ft.lb
Heater Pipe Assembly to Engine Bolt and Nut 18 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8847
Heater Hose: Locations
Heater Pipes
The heater hoses are attached to the heater core at the front of dash and to the inlet and outlet
pipes at the engine.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 8848
Heater Hose: Description and Operation
The heater hoses and pipes carry engine coolant from the engine to the heater core.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Preliminary Instructions
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Preliminary Instructions
Heater Hoses
Heater Pipes
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Make sure conduit and heat sleeving are in the same location as the original when replacing a
hose. when servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE
RETAINER IS RECOMMENDED. Refer to Quick Connect Retainer.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Preliminary Instructions > Page 8851
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Hoses
Heater Hoses
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain engine coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling in Engine Cooling. 2. Heater hoses from
heater pipes. 3. Heater hoses from heater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater hoses to heater core. 2. Heater hoses to heater pipes. 3. Drain engine coolant. Refer to
Draining and Refilling in Engine Cooling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Preliminary Instructions > Page 8852
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Pipe Assembly
Heater Pipes
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling in Engine Cooling. 2. Heater core to pipe hoses
from beater pipe assembly. 3. Heater pipe hose at coolant outlet on engine. 4. Heater pipe hose at
coolant inlet on engine. 5. Bolt and nuts retaining pipe to engine. 6. Heater pipe assembly.
Install or Connect
1. Heater pipe assembly. 2. Bolt and nuts retaining pipe to engine.
Tighten ^
Bolt and nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
3. Heater pipe hose to coolant inlet on engine. 4. Heater pipe hose to coolant outlet on engine. 5.
Heater core to pipe hoses to heater pipe assembly. 6. Refill coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling
in Engine Cooling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Locations > Compressor Pressure Relief Valve
HVAC Air Flow - Typical
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Locations > Compressor Pressure Relief Valve > Page 8857
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Compressor Pressure Relief Valve
High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Description and Operation Compressor Pressure Relief Valve
V-5 Compressor
The compressor is equipped with a pressure relief valve which is placed in the system as a safety
factor. Under certain conditions, the refrigerant on the discharge side may exceed the designed
operating pressure. To prevent system damage, the valve is designed to open automatically when
high side pressure exceeds a specified amount. Conditions that might cause this valve to open
(defective A/C pressure sensor, inoperative electric cooling fan, etc.) should be corrected, and the
refrigerant oil and refrigerant should be replaced as necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Compressor Pressure Relief Valve > Page 8860
High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Description and Operation Pressure Relief Valve
V-5 Compressor
The compressor is equipped with a pressure relief valve which is placed in the system as a safety
factor. Under certain conditions, the refrigerant on the discharge side may exceed the designed
operating pressure. To prevent system damage, the valve is designed to open automatically when
high side pressure exceeds a specified amount. Conditions that might cause this valve to open
(defective A/C pressure sensor, inoperative electric cooling fan, etc.) should be corrected, and the
refrigerant oil and refrigerant should be replaced as necessary.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 8861
High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Service and Repair
V5 Compressor Rear Head Details
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM.
2. remove old pressure relief valve.
Install or Connect
1. Clean valve seal area on rear head.
2. Lubricate O-ring of new pressure relief valve and O-ring assembly with new 525 viscosity
refrigerant oil. Install new valve and torque in place, 9.0
N.m (6.1 lbs. ft.).
3. Evacuate and recharge the system.
4. Leak test systems.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 04-01-38-014A > Mar > 06 > A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When Compressor
Engaged
Hose/Line HVAC: Customer Interest A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When Compressor Engaged
Bulletin No.: 04-01-38-014A
Date: March 17, 2006
ADVANCE SERVICE INFORMATION RESOLUTION
Subject: High-Pitched Tone Heard Inside Vehicle When A/C Compressor Is Engaged (Replace
Compressor Discharge Hose Assembly)
Models: 2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade EXT 2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban,
Tahoe 2003-2006 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL
1500 Series Vehicles Only with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (RPOs LM7, LQ4, LQ9, LR4 and L59)
and Front Only Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2 and CJ3) and a Short Condenser
2005-2006 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV 2005-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe 2005-2006
GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
1500 Series Vehicles Only, Built in February 2005 or Later, with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (RPOs
LM7, LQ4, LQ9, LR4 and L59) and Front and Rear Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2, CJ3 and C69) and
a Short Condenser
Attention:
Parts are released for 1500 series vehicles with front only air conditioning and certain utilities with
front and rear air conditioning. The length of the condenser on the utilities must be measured
before ordering a new part. Only utilities with a short condenser have a new part released for them.
Utility vehicles that are within the model year ranges above but have a long condenser are not
covered by this bulletin.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to provide the correction information for Advanced Service Information
Bulletin Number 04-01-38-014. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-01-38-014 (Section
01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a high-pitched tone that is heard inside the vehicle when the Air
Conditioning (A/C) compressor is engaged.
Cause
This condition may be caused by refrigerant pulsations within the A/C system. The noise occurs
between 800 and 1000 RPM and is often called an "Off-Idle" noise. This noise is detectable only
when the A/C is on.
Correction
Technicians are to verify that the customer concern is heard when the A/C is on and that it goes
away when the A/C is turned off. Verify that the noise is heard at low engine RPMs only, typically
between 800 and 1000 RPM. The noise is not measurable above 1200 RPM or below 700 RPM. If
the customer concern is present, then technicians are to perform the normal diagnostic procedures
for an A/C system concern. The ACR2000 should be used to check the A/C system performance,
charge level and discharge temperatures. This will eliminate the possibility that another condition is
contributing to this customer concern. If the A/C system is performing properly and all other
possible sources of the noise are eliminated, then replace the A/C compressor discharge hose
assembly. Use the proper part number hose as described in the parts information box below. Use a
new hex head bolt, P/N 11515757, to attach the new hose to the A/C compressor discharge port.
Verify that the noise has been eliminated and that the A/C system operates normally.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 04-01-38-014A > Mar > 06 > A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When Compressor
Engaged > Page 8870
Parts Information
Important:
Some of the utility vehicles listed in this bulletin were built with two different length condensers. All
the pickups and utilities with front only air conditioning will have short condenser, but the utilities
with rear air conditioning were built with both short and long condensers. This changeover occurred
in February 2005. The short condenser is 762 mm (30.0 in) long. The long condenser is 914 mm
(36.0 in) long. Be sure to measure the length of the condenser before ordering any parts when
working on a utility with rear A/C.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-01-38-014A > Mar > 06 > A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When
Compressor Engaged
Hose/Line HVAC: All Technical Service Bulletins A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When
Compressor Engaged
Bulletin No.: 04-01-38-014A
Date: March 17, 2006
ADVANCE SERVICE INFORMATION RESOLUTION
Subject: High-Pitched Tone Heard Inside Vehicle When A/C Compressor Is Engaged (Replace
Compressor Discharge Hose Assembly)
Models: 2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade EXT 2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban,
Tahoe 2003-2006 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL
1500 Series Vehicles Only with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (RPOs LM7, LQ4, LQ9, LR4 and L59)
and Front Only Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2 and CJ3) and a Short Condenser
2005-2006 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV 2005-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe 2005-2006
GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
1500 Series Vehicles Only, Built in February 2005 or Later, with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (RPOs
LM7, LQ4, LQ9, LR4 and L59) and Front and Rear Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2, CJ3 and C69) and
a Short Condenser
Attention:
Parts are released for 1500 series vehicles with front only air conditioning and certain utilities with
front and rear air conditioning. The length of the condenser on the utilities must be measured
before ordering a new part. Only utilities with a short condenser have a new part released for them.
Utility vehicles that are within the model year ranges above but have a long condenser are not
covered by this bulletin.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to provide the correction information for Advanced Service Information
Bulletin Number 04-01-38-014. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-01-38-014 (Section
01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a high-pitched tone that is heard inside the vehicle when the Air
Conditioning (A/C) compressor is engaged.
Cause
This condition may be caused by refrigerant pulsations within the A/C system. The noise occurs
between 800 and 1000 RPM and is often called an "Off-Idle" noise. This noise is detectable only
when the A/C is on.
Correction
Technicians are to verify that the customer concern is heard when the A/C is on and that it goes
away when the A/C is turned off. Verify that the noise is heard at low engine RPMs only, typically
between 800 and 1000 RPM. The noise is not measurable above 1200 RPM or below 700 RPM. If
the customer concern is present, then technicians are to perform the normal diagnostic procedures
for an A/C system concern. The ACR2000 should be used to check the A/C system performance,
charge level and discharge temperatures. This will eliminate the possibility that another condition is
contributing to this customer concern. If the A/C system is performing properly and all other
possible sources of the noise are eliminated, then replace the A/C compressor discharge hose
assembly. Use the proper part number hose as described in the parts information box below. Use a
new hex head bolt, P/N 11515757, to attach the new hose to the A/C compressor discharge port.
Verify that the noise has been eliminated and that the A/C system operates normally.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-01-38-014A > Mar > 06 > A/C - High Pitched Noise Heard When
Compressor Engaged > Page 8876
Parts Information
Important:
Some of the utility vehicles listed in this bulletin were built with two different length condensers. All
the pickups and utilities with front only air conditioning will have short condenser, but the utilities
with rear air conditioning were built with both short and long condensers. This changeover occurred
in February 2005. The short condenser is 762 mm (30.0 in) long. The long condenser is 914 mm
(36.0 in) long. Be sure to measure the length of the condenser before ordering any parts when
working on a utility with rear A/C.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Hose/Line HVAC: > 83-64-16 > Jun > 98 > Battery - Weak,
Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
Positive: All Technical Service Bulletins Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-16
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Weak or Discharged Battery, Slow Starting, GEN or MIL Lamp On, Various Driveability
Symptoms (Repair B+ Stud and/or Wiring on Starter)
Models: 1997-98 Buick Skylark 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Achieva,
Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs
LN2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners may report the battery is weak or discharged; the starting motor may turn slowly; the
generator is not charging and/or the generator Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may be on,
possibly intermittent. Driveability symptoms may also be experienced.
Cause
If following steps 1, 2 or 3 of strategy based diagnostics did not reveal the cause, the generator
output and battery positive cable terminal at the starting motor (CKT 1 - VIN T and M; CKT 2 - VIN
4) may be loose, causing a high resistance in the battery positive circuit from the generator to the
battery.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the starting motor B+ stud, wire, ring terminals and nut. Clean each mating
surface and replace damaged parts. Tighten positive battery B+ cable to starter solenoid nut to 12
N.m (106 lb in.). Refer to the "Starting Motor Replacement" portion in the Engine Electrical Section
of the Service Manual.
Recharge and load test the battery if required. Refer to "Battery Charging" in the Engine Electrical
Section of the Service Manual.
Important:
The generator and battery are not damaged and should not require replacement.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6480 Wiring and/or Use published
Connector, labor operation
Starter - Repair time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 8887
Hose/Line HVAC: Specifications
A/C Accumulator Inlet Fitting 18 ft.lb
A/C Accumulator Outlet Fitting 18 ft.lb
A/C Accumulator Tube to Evaporator 18 ft.lb
A/C Compressor and Condenser Hose Bolt to Rear of Compressor 24 ft.lb
A/C Condenser Inlet From Evaporator Fitting Nut 12 ft.lb
A/C Condenser Outlet Fitting Nut 12 ft.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
A/C Accumulator Tube
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
A/C Accumulator Tube > Page 8890
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
A/C Accumulator Tube > Page 8891
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator)
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator)
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil,
Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 2. Tube at accumulator and discard O-ring seal.
3. Raise vehicle. Refer to Lifting in General Information. 4. TUBE at evaporator and discard O-ring
seals. 5. Lower vehicle, remove tube.
Install or Connect
1. Set tube in place. Raise vehicle. 2. TUBE at evaporator using new O-ring seals.
Tighten ^
Fitting to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
3. Lower vehicle. 4. Tube at accumulator using a new O-ring seal.
Tighten ^
Fitting to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
5. Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging,
Adding Oil, Evacuating and Charging the
Refrigerant System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator) > Page 8894
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Compressor/Condenser Hose
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil,
Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 2. Switch connection on discharge line. 3. Cruise
control module (if equipped). 4. Suction line (accumulator to compressor) at accumulator. 5. Upper
closeout panel. 6. Connection at the condenser. 7. Raise vehicle. 8. Block fitting at the rear head of
the compressor. 9. Compressor/condenser hose assembly.
Important ^
Remove and discard all used O-ring seals and sealing washers.
Install or Connect
1. Compressor/condenser hose assembly. 2. Block fitting to reai head of compressor using new
sealing washers. Refer to Sealing Washer Installation Procedures.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).
3. Lower vehicle. 4. Suction line at the accumulator using a new O-ring seal.
Tighten ^
Nut to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
5. Connection at the condenser using new O-ring seal.
Tighten ^
Nut to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator) > Page 8895
6. Switch connection on discharge line. 7. Cruise control module. 8. Upper closeout panel. 9.
Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging,
Adding Oil, Evacuating and Charging the
Refrigerant System.
10. Check system operation and leak test.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Accumulator Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator) > Page 8896
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Evaporator Tube (Evaporator to Condenser)
Evaporator Tube And Accumulator Tube
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil,
Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 2. Upper closeout panel. 3. Connection from the
condenser and discard the O-ring seal. 4. Tube from retaining clip on the body side rail. 5. Raise
vehicle. Refer to Lifting in General Information. 6. Tube from the evaporator and discard the O-ring
seals. 7. Lower the vehicle and remove the evaporator tube.
Install or Connect
1. Set evaporator tube in place. 2. Raise vehicle. 3. Tube to evaporator using new O-ring seals.
Tighten ^
Fitting to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
4. Lower vehicle. 5. Tube to retaining clip on the body side rail. 6. Connection at condenser using
new O-ring seals.
Tighten ^
Nut to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
7. Upper closeout panel. 8. Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and
Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil, Evacuating and Charging the
Refrigerant System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications
Housing Assembly HVAC: Specifications Heater and Vent Module Torque Specifications
Heater and Vent Module Torque Specifications
Heater and Vent Module Screws 27 in.lb
Heater and Vent Module Stud 27 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Heater Module
Heater Module To Dash Panel
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Heater Module > Page 8902
HVAC Module To Dash Panel
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Page 8903
Housing Assembly HVAC: Description and Operation
The recirculation feature is driven by the air inlet valve. The valve is linked to a vacuum actuator
that is controlled by the mode knob of the control assembly. The valve allows fresh (outside) air to
enter the passenger compartment when open. The valve will force the passenger compartment air
to be recirculated when the valve is closed.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Module
Housing Assembly HVAC: Service and Repair Heater Module
Heater Module To Dash Panel
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain cooling system. 3. Heater hoses at the heater core. 4. Module
attaching bolts. 5. Instrument panel and instrument panel tie bar. 6. Floor air outlet. 7. Wiring
harness from module. 8. Electrical connections at blower motor and blower resistor. 9. Module from
the vehicle.
Install or Connect
1. Module in the vehicle.
Tighten ^
Bolts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
2. Electrical connections at blower motor and blower resistor. 3. Wiring harness to module. 4. Floor
air outlet. 5. Instrument panel tie bar and instrument panel. 6. Module attaching bolts (upper first
then lower).
Tighten ^
Bolts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
7. Heater hoses at heater core. 8. Fill cooling system. 9. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Module > Page 8906
Housing Assembly HVAC: Service and Repair Air Inlet (Recirculation) Valve
HVAC Module - Top And Left View
Remove or Disconnect
1. HVAC module from vehicle, 2. Recirculation valve vacuum actuator from module. 3.
Recirculation valve inlet housing from module. 4. Recirculation valve from inlet housing.
Install or Connect
1. Recirculation valve to inlet housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Module > Page 8907
2. Recirculation valve inlet housing to module.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
3. Recirculation valve vacuum actuator to module. 4. HVAC module to vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Module > Page 8908
Housing Assembly HVAC: Service and Repair HVAC Module
HVAC Module To Dash Panel
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain cooling system. 3. Recover refrigerant. 4. Evaporator lines from
evaporator. 5. Heater hoses at the heater core. 6. Module attaching bolts. 7. Instrument panel and
Instrument panel tie bar. 8. Floor air outlet. 9. Wiring harness from module.
10. Electrical connections at blower motor and blower resistors. 11. Module from the vehicle.
Install or Connect
1. Module in the vehicle. 2. Electrical connections at blower motor and blower resistor. 3. Wiring
harness to module. 4. Floor air outlet. 5. Instrument panel tie bar and Instrument panel. 6. Module
attaching bolts (upper first then lower).
Tighten ^
Bolts to 3 N.m (37 lb in).
7. Heater hoses at heater core and evaporator lines at evaporator
Tighten ^
Fittings to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
8. Evacuate and charge A/C system. 9. Fill cooling system.
10. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Bulletin No.: 08-01-38-001
Date: January 25, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Information On New GE-48800 CoolTech Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin is being issued to announce the release of GM approved Air Conditioning (A/C)
Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging Equipment that meets the new Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE) J2788 Refrigerant Recovery Standards. The ACR2000 (J-43600) cannot be
manufactured in its current state after December 2007 and will be superseded by GE-48800.
The new J2788 standard does not require that GM Dealers replace their ACR2000 units.
ACR2000's currently in use are very capable of servicing today's refrigerant systems when used
correctly and can continue to be used. Details regarding the new SAE J2788 standard are outlined
in GM Bulletin 07-01-38-004.
Effective February 1 2008, new A/C Refrigerant Recovery/Recharging equipment (P/N GE-48800)
will be released as a required replacement for the previously essential ACR2000 (J-43600). This
equipment is SAE J2788 compliant and meets GM requirements for A/C Refrigerant System
Repairs on all General Motors vehicles, including Hybrid systems with Polyolester (POE)
refrigerant oil. This equipment will not be shipped as an essential tool to GM Dealerships.
In addition, this equipment is Hybrid compliant and designed to prevent oil cross contamination
when servicing Hybrid vehicles with Electric A/C Compressors that use POE refrigerant oil.
The ACR2000 (J-43600) will need to be retrofitted with a J-43600-50 (Hose - ACR2000 Oil Flush
Loop) to be able to perform Hybrid A/C service work. All Hybrid dealers will receive the J-43600-50,
with installation instructions, as a component of the Hybrid essential tool package. Dealerships that
do not sell Hybrids, but may need to service Hybrids, can obtain J-43600-50 from SPX Kent Moore.
Refer to GM Bulletin 08-01-39-001 for the ACR2000 Hose Flush procedure.
The High Voltage (HV) electric A/C compressor used on Two Mode Hybrid vehicles uses a
Polyolester (POE) refrigerant oil instead of a Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) synthetic refrigerant oil.
This is due to the better electrical resistance of the POE oil and its ability to provide HV isolation.
Failure to flush the hoses before adding refrigerant to a Hybrid vehicle with an electric A/C
compressor may result in an unacceptable amount of PAG oil entering the refrigerant system. It
may cause a Battery Energy Control Module Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Lost
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC P1AE7) to be set. Additionally, the A/C system warranty will be
voided.
Warranty Submission Requirements
The Electronically Generated Repair Data (snapshot summary) and printer functions have been
eliminated from the GE-48800. The VGA display and temperature probes were eliminated to
reduce equipment costs. As a result, effective immediately the 18 digit "Snapshot/Charge
Summary" code is no longer required for Air Conditioning (A/C) refrigerant system repairs that are
submitted for warranty reimbursement. The charge summary data from before and after system
repairs will continue to required, but documented on the repair order only. Both high and low
pressures and the recovery and charge amounts should be noted during the repair and entered on
the repair order. If using ACR2000 (J-43600), the "Snapshot/Charge Summary" printouts should
continue to be attached to the shops copy of the repair order.
The labor codes that are affected by this requirement are D3000 through D4500.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 8913
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Contaminated R134A Refrigerant
Bulletin No.: 06-01-39-007
Date: July 25, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Contaminated R134a Refrigerant Found on Market for Automotive Air-Conditioning
Systems
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2007 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin should be directed to the Service Manager as well as the Parts Manager.
Commercially Available Contaminated R134a Refrigerant
Impurities have been found in new commercially available containers of R134a. High levels of
contaminates may cause decreased performance, and be detrimental to some air-conditioning
components. Accompanying these contaminates has been high levels of moisture.
Tip:
Excessive moisture may cause system concerns such as orifice tube freeze-up and reduced
performance.
Industry Reaction: New Industry Purity Standards
Due to the potential availability of these lower quality refrigerants, the Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE), and the Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Industry (ARI) are in the process of
instituting reliable standards that will be carried on the labels of future R134a refrigerant containers.
This identifying symbol will be your assurance of a product that conforms to the minimum standard
for OEM Automotive Air-Conditioning use.
How Can You Protect Yourself Today?
It is recommended to use GM or ACDelco(R) sourced refrigerants for all A/C repair work. These
refrigerants meet General Motors own internal standards for quality and purity, insuring that your
completed repairs are as good as the way it left the factory.
Parts Information
The part numbers shown are available through GMSPO or ACDelco(R). The nearest ACDelco(R)
distributor in your area can be found by calling 1-800-223-3526 (U.S. Only).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 8914
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 8915
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-006A
Date: May, 2000
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: J-43600 ACR 2000 Essential Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 1993-2000 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with R-134a Refrigerant
This bulletin is being revised to change the effective date and to update the text. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-38-006 (Section 01 - HVAC).
Effective June 1, 2000, the use of J-43600 ACR 2000 will be required on all repairs that require A/C
system recovery and are reimbursable by GM. Additionally, GM highly recommends that J-43600
ACR 2000 be used on all GM cars and trucks for customer paid A/C repairs.
Important:
Also effective June 1, 2000, the "Add" time for all air conditioning recovery is revised to 0.5 hours
for front systems and 0.7 hours for front/rear dual systems (RPO C69 or C34). After June 1, 2000,
all air conditioning claims submitted with the 0.9 hours "Add" time will be rejected for "labor hours
excessive".
After the completion of repairs (charging), the ACR 2000 will prompt the user to perform a snapshot
of the air conditioning system operating data. The snapshot includes:
^ Maximum high side pressure.
^ Minimum low side pressure.
^ Duct outlet temperatures (2).
^ Refrigerant purity information.
This information is captured on a paper printout and in a warranty code.
For all GM paid repairs, the paper printout should be attached to the shop copy of the repair order.
The warranty code must be submitted in the warranty claim information in the comments field. The
code enables the reporting of valuable information about the repair to GM for product quality
improvement. Claims submitted without this information may be subject to review and subsequent
debit.
The required use of J-43600 ACR 2000 raises the question of the acceptable uses for any existing
recovery/recycle equipment that GM dealers are currently using. GM recognizes that many of the
previously essential ACR4's are reaching the end of their useful life. There are several alternatives
for existing equipment that may be considered:
^ Use the existing equipment as customer paid recovery only equipment. Example: Collision repair
area.
^ Use the existing equipment as a scavenger unit for contaminated A/C systems.
^ Sell the existing units to repair facilities outside the GM dealer network.
^ Discontinue the use of the existing units if the repair/maintenance costs exceed the value of the
equipment.
^ Donate the existing equipment to local technical schools.
^ Dedicate the ACR4 to A/C system flushing, using the J-42939 Flush Adapter.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 8916
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
R-134a Charge Capacity 1.5 lb (US)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 8919
Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Type R-134a GM P/N 12345922 Or Equivalent
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Page 8920
Refrigerant: Service Precautions
Refrigerant drums have a heavy metal cap. The cap protects the valve and safety plug from
damage.For this reason, always replace the cap after each use.
Whenever a container of refrigerant must be carried in a vehicle, do not carry it in the passenger
compartment. See the manufacturers guidelines for storage, transportation and the maximum
temperature to which the container can be exposed.
When filling a small refrigerant drum from a large one, never fill the smaller drum completely.
Always leave space for the liquid to expand.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Page 8921
Refrigerant: Description and Operation
The air conditioning system contains Refrigerant-134a, which requires special handling to avoid
personal injury. Refer to Handling Refrigerant.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > A/C - New PAG Oil
Refrigerant Oil: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - New PAG Oil
Bulletin No.: 02-01-39-004B
Date: November 16, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: New PAG Oil Released
Models: 2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2006 HUMMER
H2 2006 HUMMER H3 2005-2006 Saab 9-7X
Built With R-134a Refrigeration System
All Air Conditioning Compressor Types (Excluding R4 and A6 Type Compressors)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to change the PAG oil part number used for R4 and A6 compressors
with R-134a refrigerant systems. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-01-39-004A
(Section 01 - HVAC).
All General Motors vehicles built with R-134a refrigerant systems shall now be serviced with GM
Universal PAG Oil (excluding vehicles equipped with an R4 or A6 compressor).
R4 and A6 compressors with R-134a refrigerant systems shall use PAG OIL, GM P/N 12356151
(A/C Delco part number 15-118) (in Canada, use P/N 10953486).
Important:
The PAG oil referenced in this bulletin is formulated with specific additive packages that meet
General Motors specifications and use of another oil may void the A/C systems warranty.
Use this new PAG oil when servicing the A/C system on the vehicles listed above. Oil packaged in
an 8 oz tube should be installed using A/C Oil Injector, J 45037. Refer to the HVAC Section of
Service Information for detailed information on Oil Balancing and Capacities.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Oil: Capacity Specifications Refrigerant Oil Capacity
Refrigerant Oil Capacity
Polyalkaline Glycol (PAG) Synthetic Refrigerant Lubricant 9 oz (US)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 8928
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Oil Type Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) Synthetic Refrigerant Lubricant
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Specifications A/C Pressure Sensor Torque Specification
A/C Pressure Sensor Torque Specification
A/C Pressure Sensor Fitting 44 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8932
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8933
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8934
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
An electronic A/C pressure sensor is mounted in the line (between the compressor and the
condenser). Its output to the PCM is variable and is dependent upon pressure inside the line. A
higher pressure results in a higher voltage output. The PCM constantly monitors A/C system
pressure to:
1. Disengage the A/C clutch if the pressures are too high. 2. Disengage the A/C clutch if pressures
are too low. 3. Boost idle air control to compensate for A/C load at idle. 4. Control cooling fan
operation.
The pressure sensor is not repairable, if it fails, it must be replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair A/C Pressure Sensor
The A/C system has a pressure sensor mounted on the compressor/condenser hose assembly
near the condenser connection. The sensor performs both low and high pressure cutout functions
through an input to the PCM. No compressor mounted switches are used. The sensor is mounted
on a service fitting and can be replaced without discharging the A/C system.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Electrical connection at the sensor. 3. Pressure sensor and discard
the O-ring seal.
^ The sensor is mounted on a service fitting; do not discharge the system.
Install or Connect
1. New O-ring seal lubricated in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil. 2. Pressure sensor.
Tighten ^
Sensor to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
3. Electrical connection at the sensor. 4. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 8937
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Control Switches
Conventional Mounted
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the switch in
the rear head of the compressor. 3. Remove the switch retaining ring, using J 5403 internal snap
ring pliers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 8938
4. Remove switch from compressor. 5. Remove old O-ring seal from switch cavity using J 955301
O-ring removal tool or equivalent.
NOTICE: If existing switch will be reinstalled in compressor, a new O-ring seal must be used and
preferably a new retainer ring should also be used. A new switch kit has the O-ring and retainer
ring included.
Install or Connect
1. Check switch cavity and O-ring groove in the rear head for dirt or foreign material and clean as
necessary. Install new O-ring coated with clean
525 viscosity refrigerant oil into groove in switch cavity.
2. Lubricate the switch housing with clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and carefully insert switch
into switch cavity until switch "bottoms" in cavity. 3. Using J 5403 snap ring pliers, install switch
retaining ring with high point of curved sides adjacent to the switch housing. Be sure retaining ring
is
properly seated in the switch cavity retainer ring groove.
4. Evacuate and recharge the system. 5. Leak test referring to "Compressor Leak Testing".
Direct Mounted
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 8939
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the switch in
the rear head of the compressor. 3. Remove the switch retaining ring, using J 5403 internal snap
ring pliers. 4. Remove switch from compressor. 5. Remove old O-ring seal from switch cavity using
J 955301 O-ring removal tool or equivalent.
NOTICE: If existing switch will be reinstalled in compressor, a new O-ring seal must be used and
preferably a new retainer ring should also be used. A new switch kit has the O-ring and retainer
ring included.
Install or Connect
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 8940
1. Check switch cavity and O-ring groove in the rear head for dirt or foreign material and clean as
necessary. Install new O-ring coated with clean
525 viscosity refrigerant oil into groove in switch cavity.
2. Lubricate the switch housing with clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and carefully insert switch
into switch cavity until switch "bottoms" in cavity. 3. Using J 5403 snap ring pliers, install switch
retaining ring with high point of curved sides adjacent to the switch housing. Be sure retaining ring
is
properly seated in the switch cavity retainer ring groove.
4. Evacuate and recharge the system. 5. Leak test referring to "Compressor Leak Testing".
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations
A/C COMPRESSOR CONTROL RELAY
Fuse Block Details
The A/C Compressor Control Relay is located in the Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center. The
Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center is located in the left front of the engine compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8945
Compressor Clutch Relay: Description and Operation
The A/C compressor control relay is designed to disengage the A/C compressor clutch
momentarily during start-up on a warm engine. The relay is PCM controlled. Voltage is supplied
from the A/C power feed circuit and the PCM completes the ground to close a set of normally
opened points. This turns the compressor clutch ON. The PCM opens the ground circuit when an
engine run signal is sensed with coolant temperature at a specified amount.
On a warm engine start-up, a time delay of about 3 seconds allows the engine speed to stabilize
before the compressor engages.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Control Module HVAC: Description and Operation
The blower speed is controlled by a knob which actuates a switch. The blower circuit is open in the
OFF mode. In all other modes the blower has 4 speeds to control the amount of air that flows
through the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Blower Motor Switch: Service and Repair
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument Panel trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate in instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console. 3. Control assembly screws and pull control assembly away from the
instrument Panel. 4. Blower switch knob. 5. Electrical connection. 6. Blower switch retaining screws
and blower switch.
Install or Connect
1. Blower switch and retaining screws.
Tighten ^
Screws fully driven, seated and not stripped.
2. Electrical connection. 3. Blower switch knob. 4. Control assembly and retaining screws.
Tighten ^
Screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
5. Instrument Panel trim plate. 6. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Specifications A/C Pressure Sensor Torque Specification
A/C Pressure Sensor Torque Specification
A/C Pressure Sensor Fitting 44 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8956
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8957
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8958
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
An electronic A/C pressure sensor is mounted in the line (between the compressor and the
condenser). Its output to the PCM is variable and is dependent upon pressure inside the line. A
higher pressure results in a higher voltage output. The PCM constantly monitors A/C system
pressure to:
1. Disengage the A/C clutch if the pressures are too high. 2. Disengage the A/C clutch if pressures
are too low. 3. Boost idle air control to compensate for A/C load at idle. 4. Control cooling fan
operation.
The pressure sensor is not repairable, if it fails, it must be replaced.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair A/C Pressure Sensor
The A/C system has a pressure sensor mounted on the compressor/condenser hose assembly
near the condenser connection. The sensor performs both low and high pressure cutout functions
through an input to the PCM. No compressor mounted switches are used. The sensor is mounted
on a service fitting and can be replaced without discharging the A/C system.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Electrical connection at the sensor. 3. Pressure sensor and discard
the O-ring seal.
^ The sensor is mounted on a service fitting; do not discharge the system.
Install or Connect
1. New O-ring seal lubricated in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil. 2. Pressure sensor.
Tighten ^
Sensor to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
3. Electrical connection at the sensor. 4. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 8961
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Control Switches
Conventional Mounted
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the switch in
the rear head of the compressor. 3. Remove the switch retaining ring, using J 5403 internal snap
ring pliers.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 8962
4. Remove switch from compressor. 5. Remove old O-ring seal from switch cavity using J 955301
O-ring removal tool or equivalent.
NOTICE: If existing switch will be reinstalled in compressor, a new O-ring seal must be used and
preferably a new retainer ring should also be used. A new switch kit has the O-ring and retainer
ring included.
Install or Connect
1. Check switch cavity and O-ring groove in the rear head for dirt or foreign material and clean as
necessary. Install new O-ring coated with clean
525 viscosity refrigerant oil into groove in switch cavity.
2. Lubricate the switch housing with clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and carefully insert switch
into switch cavity until switch "bottoms" in cavity. 3. Using J 5403 snap ring pliers, install switch
retaining ring with high point of curved sides adjacent to the switch housing. Be sure retaining ring
is
properly seated in the switch cavity retainer ring groove.
4. Evacuate and recharge the system. 5. Leak test referring to "Compressor Leak Testing".
Direct Mounted
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 8963
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the switch in
the rear head of the compressor. 3. Remove the switch retaining ring, using J 5403 internal snap
ring pliers. 4. Remove switch from compressor. 5. Remove old O-ring seal from switch cavity using
J 955301 O-ring removal tool or equivalent.
NOTICE: If existing switch will be reinstalled in compressor, a new O-ring seal must be used and
preferably a new retainer ring should also be used. A new switch kit has the O-ring and retainer
ring included.
Install or Connect
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/C Pressure Sensor > Page 8964
1. Check switch cavity and O-ring groove in the rear head for dirt or foreign material and clean as
necessary. Install new O-ring coated with clean
525 viscosity refrigerant oil into groove in switch cavity.
2. Lubricate the switch housing with clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and carefully insert switch
into switch cavity until switch "bottoms" in cavity. 3. Using J 5403 snap ring pliers, install switch
retaining ring with high point of curved sides adjacent to the switch housing. Be sure retaining ring
is
properly seated in the switch cavity retainer ring groove.
4. Evacuate and recharge the system. 5. Leak test referring to "Compressor Leak Testing".
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Service Port HVAC > Component Information > Locations
Service Port HVAC: Locations
The Schrader valve is located under the A/C pressure sensor in the compresssor discharge hose.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Service Port HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
Page 8968
Service Port HVAC: Service and Repair
Tools Required:
J 241 82-2A Valve Core Remover/Installer J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and
Recharging Station
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil,
Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System. 2. Harness from pressure sensor. 3. Pressure
sensor from fitting. 4. Schrader valve from fitting.
Install or Connect
1. New valve to fitting.
Tighten ^
Valve, Hand Tight.
2. Pressure sensor to fitting.
Tighten ^
Sensor to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
3. Harness to pressure sensor. 4. Recharge A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and
Recycling, Discharging, Adding Oil, Evacuating and Charging the Refrigerant System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Harness HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Vacuum Harness
Vacuum Harness HVAC: Locations Vacuum Harness
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Harness HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Vacuum Harness > Page 8973
(2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Harness HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Vacuum Harness > Page 8974
Vacuum Harness HVAC: Locations Vacuum Hose Harness
The vacuum hose harness is located under the instrument panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Harness HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Page 8975
Vacuum Harness HVAC: Service and Repair
Vacuum Harness Color Code
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument panel pad. Refer to Instrument Panel Trim Pad in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console. 3. Air distribution duct. 4. Vacuum lines from the vacuum
actuators and vacuum tank. 5. Harness from control
Install or Connect
1. Harness to control assembly. 2. Vacuum lines to the vacuum actuators. 3. Air distribution duct. 4.
Instrument Panel Trim Pad. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Reservoir HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications
Vacuum Reservoir HVAC: Specifications Vacuum Reservoir Torque Specifications
Vacuum Reservoir Torque Specifications
Vacuum Tank Screw 9 in.lb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Reservoir HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8979
Vacuum Reservoir HVAC: Locations
The vacuum tank is located on top of the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Reservoir HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8980
Vacuum Reservoir HVAC: Service and Repair
Heater Module - Disassembled View (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Reservoir HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 8981
(2 Of 2)
During heavy acceleration the vacuum supply from the intake manifold drops. Under load
conditions a check valve in the vacuum tank maintains vacuum so that it will be available for
continuous use by the vacuum operated actuators.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument panel Trim Pad. Refer to Instrument Panel Pad in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console. 3. Air distribution ducts. 4. Vacuum line from tank. 5.
Vacuum tank from module.
Install or Connect
1. Vacuum tank.
Tighten ^
Screw to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
2. Vacuum line to tank. 3. Air distribution ducts. 4. Instrument panel pad. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. 2. Turn the
ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Remove the key from the ignition switch. 4. Remove the left
IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
IMPORTANT: With the AIR BAG Fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, The
AIR BAG warning lamp illuminates. This is normal operation, and does not indicate an SIR system
malfunction.
Description
5. Remove the AIR BAG Fuse from the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console.
6. Remove the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 7. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the driver yellow 2-way
connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 8988
8. Disconnect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
9. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
10. Disconnect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering
column.
Enabling the SIR System
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Connect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 8989
3. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
4. Connect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
5. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the driver yellow 2-way connector located
near the base of the steering column. 6. Install the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 8990
Description
7. Install the AIR BAG fuse to the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 8. Install the left IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 9. Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
9.1. The AIR BAG warning lamp will flash seven times.
9.2. The AIR BAG warning lamp will then turn OFF.
10. Perform the SIR Diagnostic System Check if the AIR BAG warning lamp does not operate as
described.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 8991
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the SIR system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) maintains a reserve energy supply.
The reserve energy supply provides deployment power for the air bags. Deployment power is
available for as much as 10 minutes after disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following
methods:
^ You turn OFF the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the SDM.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR system prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply power.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Specifications
Air Bag: Specifications Instrument Panel Inflator Module
Instrument Panel Inflator Module
Mounting Fasteners 3.5 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations
Air Bag: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations > Page 8997
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations > Page 8998
Description
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations > Page 8999
Description
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Diagrams >
Driver Inflator Module
Driver Inflator Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Diagrams >
Driver Inflator Module > Page 9002
Passenger Inflator Module
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 9003
Air Bag: Service Precautions
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. General Motors will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 9004
Air Bag: Description and Operation
The inflator modules consist of an inflatable bag and an inflator. An inflator consists of a canister of
gas-generating material and an initiating device. The initiator is part of the deployment loop. When
the vehicle is in a frontal crash of sufficient force, the inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic
Module (SDM) causes current to flow through the deployment loops. Current passing through the
initiator ignites the material in the inflator module. The gas produced from this reaction rapidly
inflates the air bag.
There is a shorting bar on the inflatable restraint steering wheel module side of the upper steering
column connector that connects the inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil to the inflatable
restraint steering wheel module. The shorting bar shorts across the inflatable restraint steering
wheel module circuits during the disconnection of the upper steering column connector. The
shorting of the inflatable restraint steering wheel module circuitry will help prevent unwanted
deployment of the air bag when servicing the inflatable restraint steering wheel module, the
steering column or other SIR system components.
There is a shorting bar on the inflatable restraint IP module connector that connects to the SIR
wiring harness. The shorting bar shorts across the inflatable restraint IP module circuits during the
disconnection of the inflatable restraint IP module connector The shorting of the inflatable restraint
IP module circuitry will help prevent unwanted deployment of the air bag when servicing the
inflatable restraint IP module, the instrument panel or other SIR system components.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures
Air Bag: Service and Repair Deployment Procedures
Inside of Vehicle (Vehicle Scrapping Procedure)
Deploy the inflator modules inside of the vehicle when destroying the vehicle or when salvaging the
vehicle for parts. This includes but is not limited to the following situations:
^ The vehicle has completed its useful life.
^ Irreparable damage occurs to the vehicle in a non-deployment type accident.
^ Irreparable damage occurs to the vehicle during a theft.
^ The vehicle is being salvaged for parts to be used on a vehicle with a different VIN as opposed to
rebuilding as the same VIN.
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed. Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in
personal injury.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Remove the ignition key. 3. Put on safety glasses.
4. Remove all loose objects from the front seats. 5. Disconnect the inflatable restraint steering
wheel module yellow 2-way connector.
6. Cut the yellow 2-way harness connector out of the vehicle, leaving at least 16 cm (6 in) of wire at
the connector. 7. Strip 13 mm (0.5 in) of insulation from each of the connector wire leads.
8. Cut two 4.6 M (15 ft) deployment wires from a 0.8mm sq. (18 gage) or thicker multi-strand wire.
Use these wires to fabricate the driver
deployment harness.
9. Strip 13 mm (0.5 in) of insulation from both ends of the wires cut in the previous step.
10. Twist together one end from each of the wires in order to short the wires. Deployment wires
shall remain shorted, and not connected to a power
source until you are ready to deploy the air bag.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9007
11. Twist together one connector wire lead to one deployment wire. 12. Inspect that the previous
connection is secure.
13. Bend flat the twisted connection. 14. Secure and insulate the connection using electrical tape.
15. Twist together, bend, and tape the remaining connector wire lead to the remaining deployment
wire. 16. Connect the deployment harness to the inflatable restraint steering wheel module yellow
2-way connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9008
17. Route the deployment harness out of the vehicle's driver side.
Figure 27
18. Disconnect the inflatable restraint IP module yellow 2-way harness connector. 19. Cut the
harness connector out of the vehicle, leaving at least 16 cm (6 in) of wire at the connector. 20. Strip
13 mm (0.5 in) of insulation from each of the connector wire leads.
21. Cut two 6.1 M (20 ft) deployment wires from a 0.8mm sq. (18 gage) or thicker multi-strand wire.
These wires will be used to fabricate the
passenger deployment harness.
22. Strip 13 mm (0.5 in) of insulation from both ends of the wires cut in the previous step. 23. Twist
together one end from each of the wires in order to short the wires.
24. Twist together one connector wire lead to one deployment wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9009
25. Bend flat the twisted connection. 26. Secure and insulate the connection using electrical tape.
27. Twist together, bend, and tape the remaining connector wire lead to the remaining deployment
wire. 28. Connect the deployment harness to the inflatable restraint IP module yellow 2-way
connector.
29. Route the deployment harness out of the passenger side of the vehicle. 30. Clear the inside
and outside of the vehicle of any people or loose and flammable objects. 31. Stretch the driver
harness to full length. 32. Stretch the passenger harness to full length. 33. Completely cover the
windshield and front door window openings with a drop cloth.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9010
34. Place a power source, 12V minimum 12A minimum (i.e., a vehicle battery) near the shorted
end of the harness. 35. Separate the two ends of the driver deployment harness wires. 36. Connect
the driver deployment harness wires to the power source in order to deploy the inflatable restraint
steering wheel module. 37. Disconnect the driver deployment harness wires from the power
source.
38. Separate the two ends of the passenger deployment harness wires. 39. Connect the passenger
deployment harness wires to the power source in order to deploy the inflatable restraint IP module.
40. Disconnect the passenger deployment harness wires from the power source.
41. Twist together one end of each wire on the driver deployment harness in order to short the
wires.
42. Twist together one end of each wire on the passenger deployment harness in order to short the
wires. 43. Remove the drop cloth from the vehicle. 44. Disconnect both harnesses from the vehicle.
45. Discard the harnesses. 46. Scrap the vehicle in the same manner as a non-SIR equipped
vehicle. 47. If one or both of the modules did not deploy, perform the following steps:
47.1. Remove the undeployed module(s) from the vehicle. Refer to Inflatable Restraint Steering
Wheel Module and Inflatable Restraint IP
Module.
47.2. Temporarily store the module(s). 47.3. Call the Technical Assistance Group for further
assistance.
Inflatable Restraint Steering Wheel Module
Tools Required
^ J 38828 SIR Deployment Harness
^ An appropriate pigtail adapter
CAUTION: In order to prevent accidental deployment of the air bag which could cause personal
injury, do not dispose of an undeployed inflator module as normal shop waste The undeployed
inflator module contains substances that could cause severe illness or personal injury if
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9011
the sealed container is damaged during disposal Use the following deployment procedures to
safely dispose of an undeployed inflator module Failure to dispose of an inflator module as
instructed may be a violation of federal state, province, or local laws.
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed. Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in
personal injury.
Deploy the inflatable restraint steering wheel inflator module outside of the vehicle when the vehicle
will be returned to service. Situations that require deployment outside of the vehicle include the
following:
^ Using the SIR diagnostics, you determine that the inflator module does not function properly.
^ The inflator module is scratched or ripped on the coven
^ The inflator module pigtail (if equipped) is damaged.
^ The inflator module connector is damaged.
^ An inflator module connector terminal is damaged.
Deployment and disposal of a malfunctioning inflator module is subject to any required retention
period.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Remove the ignition key. 3. Put on safety glasses.
4. Inspect the J 38626 and the appropriate pigtail adapter for damage. Replace as needed.
5. Short the two SIR deployment harness (1) leads together using one banana plug seated into the
other. 6. Connect the appropriate pigtail adapter (2) to the SIR deployment harness (1). 7. Remove
the inflatable restraint steering wheel module. Refer to Inflatable Restraint Steering Wheel Module
in Steering Column Steering Wheels. 8. Remove the horn lead from the back of the module, if
equipped. 9. Remove the redundant steering wheel control leads from the back of the module, if
equipped.
10. Remove all horn/steering wheel control buttons from the module, if equipped.
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not rest
the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for the
air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
11. Place the module with the vinyl trim cover facing up and away from the surface on a work
bench.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9012
12. Clear a space on the ground about 1.85 M (6 ft) in diameter for deployment of the module. If
possible, use a paved, outdoor location free of
activity. Otherwise, use a space free of activity on the shop floor. Make sure you have sufficient
ventilation.
13. Make sure no loose or flammable objects are in the area. 14. Place the module in the space
with the vinyl trim cover facing up.
15. Extend the SIR deployment harness and adapter to full length from the module. 16. Place a
12V minimum/2A minimum power source (i.e., vehicle battery) near the shorted end of the harness.
17. Connect the module (1) to the adapter (2) on the SIR deployment harness (3). 18. Firmly seat
the adapter into the module connector. 19. Clear the area of people.
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed. Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in
personal injury.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9013
20. Separate the two banana plugs on the SIR deployment harness.
IMPORTANT: The rapid gas expansion involved with deploying an air bag is very loud. Notify all
the people in the immediate area that you intend to deploy the inflator module.
IMPORTANT: When the air bag deploys, the inflator module may jump about 30 cm (1 ft) vertically.
This is a normal reaction of the inflator module to the force of the rapid gas expansion inside the air
bag.
21. Connect the SIR deployment harness wires to the power source.
22. Disconnect the SIR deployment harness from the power source after the air bag deploys. 23.
Seat one banana plug into the other in order to short the deployment harness leads. 24. If the air
bag did not deploy. disconnect the adapter and discontinue the procedure. Contact the Technical
Assistance Group. Otherwise, proceed to
the following steps.
CAUTION: Immediately following the deployment of an air bag, the metal surfaces of the inflator
module are very hot. Do not place the deployed inflator module near any flammable objects. Wait
for about ten minutes before touching any metal surface of the inflator module. Disregarding these
precautions may cause fire or personal injury.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9014
25. Put on a pair of shop gloves. 26. Disconnect the pigtail adapter from the inflator module as
soon as possible. 27. Inspect the pigtail adapter and the SIR deployment harness. Replace as
needed. 28. Dispose of the deployed module through normal refuse channels. 29. Wash hands
with a mild soap.
Inflatable Restraint IP Module
Dealers should refer to the latest General Motors Service Bulletins for live (undeployed) inflatable
restraint IP module scrapping and disposal procedures. All others should contact a local General
Motors dealer for these procedures. Dispose of deployed IP modules through normal refuse
channels.
Preliminary
The inflator module can be deployed inside or outside of the vehicle. The method used depends
upon the final disposition of the vehicle. Review the following procedures in order to determine
which will work best in a given situation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9015
Air Bag: Service and Repair Handling/Shipping/Scrapping
Handling A Deployed Inflator Module
After the inflator module has deployed, the surface of the air bag may contain a powdery residue.
This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag as it inflates), and
by-products of the chemical reaction. The deployment reaction produces sodium hydroxide dust
(similar to lye soap). The sodium hydroxide quickly reacts with the atmospheric moisture. This
atmospheric moisture converts the sodium hydroxide into sodium carbonate and sodium
bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore, you will probably find no sodium hydroxide present after the
deployment. Gloves and safety glasses are recommended, however, as a precaution. Gloves and
safety glasses help to prevent possible irritation of the skin or eyes.
Handling A Live (Undeployed) Inflator Module
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not rest
the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for the
air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
Live (Undeployed) Inflator Module
Take special care when handling or storing a live (undeployed) inflator module. An air bag
deployment produces rapid gas generation. This may cause the inflator module, or an object in
front of the inflator module, to jettison through the air in the, event of an unlikely deployment.
Scrapping Procedures
During the course of a vehicle's useful life, certain situations may arise which will necessitate the
disposal of a live (undeployed) inflator module. The following information covers the proper
procedures for the disposing of a live inflator module. Deploy the inflator module before disposal.
Do not dispose of the module through normal disposal channels.
CAUTION: In order to prevent accidental deployment of the air bag which could cause personal
injury, do not dispose of an undeployed inflator module as normal shop waste. The undeployed
inflator module contains substances that could cause severe illness or personal injury if the sealed
container is damaged during disposal. Use the following deployment procedures to safely dispose
of an undeployed inflator module. Failure to dispose of an inflator module as instructed may be a
violation of federal, state, province, or local laws.
Do not deploy an air bag in the following situations:
^ After replacement of an inflator module under warranty. The module may need to be returned
undeployed to the Delphi Interior & Lighting Group. Refer to the latest service bulletin regarding SIR
shipping procedures.
^ If the vehicle is the subject of a Product Liability report related to the SIR system and is subject to
a Preliminary Investigation (GM-1241). Do not alter the SIR system in any manner. Refer to the
latest service bulletin on SIR shipping procedures.
^ If the vehicle is involved in a campaign affecting the inflator modules. Follow the instructions in
the Campaign Service Bulletin for proper SIR handling and shipping procedures.
Shipping Procedures For Live (Undeployed) Inflator Modules
Refer to the latest service bulletins for proper SIR inflator module shipping procedures.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9016
Air Bag: Service and Repair Passenger's Inflator Module
Removal
1. Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. 2. Remove the IP trim pad. Refer to
IP Trim Pad in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
3. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the inflatable restraint IP module yellow
2-way pigtail connector.
4. Disconnect the inflatable restraint IP module yellow 2-way pigtail connector from the SIR wiring
harness jumper.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9017
5. Remove the inflatable restraint IP module mounting fasteners (2). 6. Remove the inflatable
restraint IP module (1) from the instrument panel (3).
Installation
1. Install the inflatable restraint IP module (1) to the instrument panel (3).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
2. Install the inflatable restraint IP module mounting fasteners (2).
Tighten Tighten fasteners to 3.5 N.m (31 lb. in).
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Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9018
3. Connect the inflatable restraint IP module yellow 2-way pigtail connector to the SIR wiring
harness jumper.
4. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the inflatable restraint IP module yellow 2-way
pigtail connector. 5. Install the IP trim pad. 6. Enable the SIR system.
Important Preliminary Precautions
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not rest
the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for the
air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployment Procedures > Page 9019
Air Bag: Service and Repair Steering Wheel Air Bag Module Replacement
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system. 2. Two screws from the back of the
steering wheel using a Hex Head driver (or equivalent). 3. Connector position assurance (CPA)
and electrical connection from rear of inflator module. 4. Inflator module.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. CPA to rear of inflator module. 2. Inflator module to steering wheel and four screws through back
of steering wheel.
^ Tighten screws to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
3. Enable the SIR system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Specifications
Air Bag Control Module: Specifications Sensing and Diagnostic Module
Sensing and Diagnostic Module
Mounting Fasteners 14 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Locations > System Component Locations
Description
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Locations > System Component Locations > Page 9025
Air Bag Control Module: Locations Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
Component Location Views
At the right passenger compartment, under the right seat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9026
Air Bag Control Module: Diagrams
Sensing Diagnostic Module (SDM)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9027
Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) performs the following functions in
the SIR system:
^ Energy Reserve - The SDM maintains 23 Volt Loop Reserve (23 VLR) energy supplies to provide
deployment energy. Ignition voltage can provide deployment energy if the 23 Volt Loop Reserves
malfunction.
^ Frontal Crash Detection - The SDM monitors vehicle velocity changes to detect frontal crashes
that are severe enough to warrant deployment.
^ Air Bag Deployment - During a frontal crash of sufficient force, the SDM will cause enough
current to flow through the inflator modules to deploy the air bags.
^ Frontal Crash Recording - The SDM records information regarding the SIR system status during
a frontal crash.
^ Malfunction Detection - The SDM performs diagnostic monitoring of the SIR system electrical
components. Upon detection of a circuit malfunction, the SDM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC).
^ Malfunction Diagnosis - The SDM displays SIR Diagnostic Trouble Codes and system status
information through the use of a scan tool.
^ Driver Notification - The SDM warns the vehicle driver of SIR system malfunctions by controlling
the AIR BAG warning lamp.
The SDM connects to the SIR wiring harness using a 12-way connector. If this connector is
removed from the SDM, the UART data link is broken and the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) will
turn the AIR BAG warning lamp ON steady whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN or START
positions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Important Preliminary Precautions
CAUTION: Be careful when you handle a Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM). Do not strike or
jolt the SDM. Before applying power to the SDM:
^ Remove any dirt, grease, etc. from the mounting surface
^ Position the SDM horizontally on the mounting surface
^ Point the arrow on the SDM toward the front of the vehicle
^ Tighten all of the SDM fasteners and SDM bracket fasteners to the specified torque value
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
CAUTION: If any water enters the vehicle's interior up to the level of the carpet or higher and soaks
the carpet, the Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) and the SDM harness connector may need
to be replaced. The SDM could be activated when powered, which could cause deployment of the
air bag(s) and result in personal injury, Before attempting these procedures, the SIR system must
be disabled. Refer to Disabling SIR System. With the ignition OFF inspect the SDM mounting area,
including the carpet. If any significant soaking or evidence of significant soaking is detected, you
MUST:
^ Remove all water
^ Repair the water damage
^ Replace the SDM harness connector
^ Replace the SDM
Failure to follow these procedures could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or
otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 9030
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Removal Procedure
1. Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. 2. Remove the passenger front
seat. Refer to Driver Or Passenger Front Seat in Seats and Carpet. 3. Remove the passenger front
carpet retainer, then roll back the carpet. Refer to Floor Carpet Retainer in Seats and Carpet.
4. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the inflatable restraint Sensing and
Diagnostic Module (SDM) harness connector.
Description
5. Disconnect the SDM harness connector from the SDM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 9031
6. Remove the SDM mounting fasteners (2). 7. Remove the SDM (1) from the floor pan (3).
IMPORTANT: If the SDM mounting holes or fasteners are damaged to the extent that the module
can no longer be properly mounted use the following repair. Torque the replacement fastener with
a hand tool in order to prevent stripping the replacement fastener.
1. Remove the stripped fastener and discard it. 2. Drill and tap the weld nut for use with a 7.00 x
1.0 mm bolt.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
3. Install the SDM with new fastener GM P/N 25601790. 4. Tighten
Tighten fastener to 14 N.m (124 lb. in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 9032
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Installation Procedure
1. Install the SDM (1) to the floor pan (3).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
2. Install the SDM mounting fasteners (2).
Tighten Tighten fasteners to 14 N.m (124 lb. in).
Description
3. Install the SDM harness connector to the SDM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 9033
4. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the SDM harness connector. 5. Install the
carpet and the passenger front carpet retainer. 6. Install the passenger front seat. 7. Enable the
SIR system. Refer to Enabling the SIR System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Safety Switch/Connector > Component
Information > Locations > Driver Safing Connector
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Safety Switch/Connector > Component
Information > Locations > Driver Safing Connector > Page 9038
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Locations
Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9042
Description
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9043
Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Description and Operation
The inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil consists of two or more current-carrying coils.
The inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil attaches to the steering column. Two of the
current-carrying coils allow rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining continuous contact of
the driver deployment loop to the inflatable restraint steering wheel module.
There is a shorting bar on the yellow 2-way connector near the base of the steering column that
connects the inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil to the SIR wiring harness. The shorting
bar shorts the circuits to the inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil and inflatable restraint
steering wheel module during the disconnection of the yellow 2-way connector. The shorting of the
inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil and inflatable restraint steering wheel module
circuitry will help prevent unwanted deployment of the air bag when servicing the steering column
or other SIR system components.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Centering Steering Wheel Inflator Module Coil
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Centering Steering Wheel Inflator Module Coil > Page 9046
Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Service and Repair SIR Coil Assembly
NOTE: Refer to Steering Column Unit Repair for additional procedures.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Important: Disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system.
1. Steering wheel assembly. 2. Coil assembly retaining clip. 3. Coil assembly off shaft end letting
coil hang freely. 4. Wave washer. 5. Spacer shaft lock (standard column only). 6. Shaft lock
retaining ring using J 23563-C to compress lock. 7. Pry off retaining ring. 8. Shaft lock. 9. Turn
signal canceling cam assembly.
10. Upper bearing spring. 11. Turn signal to right turn position (up). 12. Multifunction lever. 13.
Hazard knob assembly. 14. Screw and signal switch arm.
^ Let switch arm hang freely (tilt option equipped with cruise only).
15. Screws, turn signal switch.
^ Let turn signal switch hang freely.
16. Remove coil assembly connector shroud. 17. Steering column support bracket bolts. 18. Upper
steering column bolts. 19. Wiring protector. 20. Connect a length of mechanic's wire to coil
assembly terminal connector to aid in reassembly. 21. Gently pull wire harness through steering
column housing shroud, steering column housing and lock assembly cover. 22. Remove
mechanic's wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Centering Steering Wheel Inflator Module Coil > Page 9047
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Ensure all fasteners are securely seated before applying needed torque. Failure to do so
may result in component damage or malfunctioning of steering column.
1. Connect mechanic's wire to centering coil assembly connector. 2. Gently pull connector through
steering column housing shroud, steering column housing and lock assembly. 3. Remove
mechanic's wire. 4. Install wiring protector. 5. Install connector shroud. 6. Connector centering coil
assembly terminal connector. 7. Steering column lower support bracket to steering column.
^ Tighten bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
8. Steering column upper support bolts.
^ Tighten bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
9. Turn signal switch assembly.
^ Tighten bolts to 3.4 Nm (30 inch lbs.).
10. Signal switch arm (tilt steering column only).
^ Tighten bolts to 2.3 Nm (20 inch lbs.).
11. Hazard knob assembly. 12. Multifunction lever. 13. Turn signal canceling cam assembly.
^ Lubricate with grease, synthetic (service kit).
14. Shaft lock.
^ Inspect shaft lock retaining ring for damage or deformation. Replace with new retaining ring.
15. Shaft lock retaining ring. Line up to block tooth on shaft using J 23653-C to compress shaft
lock.
^ Shaft lock retaining ring must be firmly seated in groove on shaft.
16. Spacer shaft lock (standard column only). 17. Ensure coil assembly is centered.
Important: Assemble pre-centered coil assembly to steering column. Remove centering tab and
dispose.
Important: Coil assembly will become un-centered if: a. Steering column is separated form steering
gear and is allowed to rotate. b. Centering spring is pushed down, letting hub rotate while coil is
removed from steering column. In the event this occurs, refer to "Centering
Coil Assembly."
18. Coil assembly using horn tower on canceling cam assembly inner ring and projections on outer
ring for alignment. 19. Coil assembly retaining ring.
^ Ring must be firmly in groove on shaft.
Important: Gently pull lower coil assembly wire to remove any wire kinks that may be inside column
assembly. It is absolutely critical that you make sure there are no kinks or bends in the SIR coil
assembly wire. If a kink or bend is present, interference may occur with the shaft lock mechanism.
Then turning of the steering wheel may cut or damage wire.
20. Steering wheel assembly. 21. Enable the SIR system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Centering Steering Wheel Inflator Module Coil > Page 9048
Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Service and Repair Steering Column Referral
Refer to SIR coil assembly in Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) Standard Steering Column
Floor Shift Unit Repair of Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) tilt steering wheel module coil.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information >
Specifications
Impact Sensor: Specifications Front End Descriminating Sensor
Front End Descriminating Sensor
Mounting Fasteners 10 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information >
Locations > Auxiliary Discriminating Sensor
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information >
Locations > Auxiliary Discriminating Sensor > Page 9054
Description
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9055
Auxiliary Discriminating Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9056
Impact Sensor: Description and Operation
The presence of an inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor enhances the SIR system
performance. Use of the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor provides timely
deployment of the air bags during some crashes. Although this is a mechanical sensor, it is not a
part of the deployment loop but instead only provides an input signal to the inflatable restraint
Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Front End Discriminating Sensor
Important Preliminary Precautions
CAUTION: Be careful when you handle a sensor. Do not strike or jolt a sensor. Before applying
power to a sensor:
^ Remove any dirt, grease, etc. from the mounting surface.
^ Position the sensor horizontally on the mounting surface.
^ Point the arrow on the sensor toward the front of the vehicle.
^ Tighten all of the sensor fasteners and sensor bracket fasteners to the specified torque value.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
Removal Procedure
1. Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System.
2. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the inflatable restraint front end
discriminating sensor harness connector.
3. Disconnect the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor harness connector from the
sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor > Page 9059
4. Remove the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor mounting fasteners (2). 5.
Remove the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor (1) from the hood latch support
bracket (3).
Installation Procedure
1. Install the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor (1) to the hood latch support bracket
(3).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
2. Install the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor mounting fasteners (2).
Tighten Tighten fasteners to 10 N.m (89 lb. in).
3. Connect the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor harness connector to the sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor > Page 9060
4. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the inflatable restraint front end discriminating
sensor harness connector. 5. Enable the SIR system. Refer to Enabling the SIR System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor > Page 9061
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Sensor Replacement Guidelines
The SIR sensor replacement policy requires replacing sensors in the area of accident damage. The
area of accident damage is defined as the portion of the vehicle which is crushed, bent, or
damaged due to a collision. For example, a moderate collision where the front of the vehicle
impacts a tree. If the vehicle has a SIR sensor mounted forward of the radiator, it must be replaced.
^ Replace the sensor whether or not the air bags have deployed.
^ Replace the sensor even if it appears to be undamaged.
Sensor damage which is not visible, such as slight bending of the mounting bracket or cuts in the
wire insulation, can cause improper operation of the SIR sensing system. Do not try to determine
whether the sensor is undamaged, replace the sensor. Also, if you follow a Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC) table and a malfunctioning sensor is indicated, replace the sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Passenger Presence System Information
Seat Occupant Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Passenger Presence System
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-50-009F
Date: December 23, 2010
Subject: Information on Passenger Presence Sensing System (PPS or PSS) Concerns With
Custom Upholstery, Accessory Seat Heaters or Other Comfort Enhancing Devices
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Equipped with Passenger Presence Sensing
System
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-50-009E (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Concerns About Safety and Alterations to the Front Passenger Seat
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE THE
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT AS RELEASED BY GM FOR THAT
VEHICLE. DO NOT ALTER THE SEAT COVERS OR SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT. ANY
ALTERATIONS TO SEAT COVERS OR GM ACCESSORIES DEFEATS THE INTENDED DESIGN
OF THE SYSTEM. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF
SUCH IMPROPER SEAT ALTERATIONS, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS INCURRED.
The front passenger seat in many GM vehicles is equipped with a passenger sensing system that
will turn off the right front passenger's frontal airbag under certain conditions, such as when an
infant or child seat is present. In some vehicles, the passenger sensing system will also turn off the
right front passenger's seat mounted side impact airbag. For the system to function properly,
sensors are used in the seat to detect the presence of a properly-seated occupant. The passenger
sensing system may not operate properly if the original seat trim is replaced (1) by non-GM covers,
upholstery or trim, or (2) by GM covers, upholstery or trim designed for a different vehicle or (3) by
GM covers, upholstery or trim that has been altered by a trim shop, or (4) if any object, such as an
aftermarket seat heater or a comfort enhancing pad or device is installed under the seat fabric or
between the occupant and the seat fabric.
Aftermarket Seat Heaters, Custom Upholstery, and Comfort Enhancing Pads or Devices
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE ONLY
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT RELEASED AS GM
ACCESSORIES FOR THAT VEHICLE. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER TYPE OF SEAT COVERS OR
SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT, OR GM ACCESSORIES RELEASED FOR OTHER VEHICLE
APPLICATIONS. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF SUCH
IMPROPER SEAT ACCESSORIES, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS MADE
NECESSARY BY SUCH USE.
Many types of aftermarket accessories are available to customers, upfitting shops, and dealers.
Some of these devices sit on top of, or are Velcro(R) strapped to the seat while others such as seat
heaters are installed under the seat fabric. Additionally, seat covers made of leather or other
materials may have different padding thickness installed that could prevent the Passenger Sensing
System from functioning properly. Never alter the vehicle seats. Never add pads or other devices to
the seat cushion, as this may interfere with the operation of the Passenger Sensing System and
either prevent proper deployment of the passenger airbag or prevent proper suppression of the
passenger air bag.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Malfunction Lamp / Indicator, Air Bag > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Lamp / Indicator: > 83-81-34 > Mar > 99 > SIR
- Operating Vehicle with Warning Light On
Malfunction Lamp / Indicator: Customer Interest SIR - Operating Vehicle with Warning Light On
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-34
Date: March, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Operating Vehicle with Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) Warning Light Illuminated
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with SDM Controlled Air Bag
System
The AIR BAG warning light is the key to driver notification of Supplemental Inflatable Restraint
(SIR) system malfunctions. When the warning light remains illuminated or continues to flash, one or
more of the following conditions may occur if vehicle operation is continued.
^ Non-deployment of the air bags in the event of a crash.
^ Deployment of the air bags without a crash.
^ Deployment of the air bags in crashes less severe than intended.
If an AIR BAG warning light is illuminated or flashing, you should advise the customer of these
possibilities and that the vehicle should be serviced right away.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Malfunction Lamp / Indicator, Air Bag > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Lamp / Indicator: > 83-81-34 >
Mar > 99 > SIR - Operating Vehicle with Warning Light On
Malfunction Lamp / Indicator: All Technical Service Bulletins SIR - Operating Vehicle with Warning
Light On
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-34
Date: March, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Operating Vehicle with Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) Warning Light Illuminated
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with SDM Controlled Air Bag
System
The AIR BAG warning light is the key to driver notification of Supplemental Inflatable Restraint
(SIR) system malfunctions. When the warning light remains illuminated or continues to flash, one or
more of the following conditions may occur if vehicle operation is continued.
^ Non-deployment of the air bags in the event of a crash.
^ Deployment of the air bags without a crash.
^ Deployment of the air bags in crashes less severe than intended.
If an AIR BAG warning light is illuminated or flashing, you should advise the customer of these
possibilities and that the vehicle should be serviced right away.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Malfunction Lamp / Indicator, Air Bag > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9079
Malfunction Lamp / Indicator: Description and Operation
The ignition switch applies ignition voltage to the AIR BAG warning lamp. The AIR BAG warning
lamp receives power whenever the ignition switch is at the OFF/UNLOCK, RUN or START
positions. The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) controls the lamp via
serial data communication on the UART data line CKT 800. If the AIR BAG warning lamp fails to
come ON at all, refer to Telltales in Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Microprocessor.
The SIR system uses the AIR BAG warning lamp to do the following:
^ Verify lamp and SDM operation by flashing the lamp seven times when the ignition switch is first
turned to the RUN position.
^ Warn the vehicle driver of SIR electrical system malfunctions which could potentially affect the
operation of the SIR system. These malfunctions could result in either of the following conditions:
- Non-deployment in the case of a frontal crash
- Deployment for conditions less severe than intended
The AIR BAG warning lamp is the key to driver notification of SIR system malfunctions. Refer to
SIR Diagnostic System Check for proper lamp operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Malfunction Lamp / Indicator, Air Bag > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9080
Malfunction Lamp / Indicator: Service and Repair
The AIR BAG warning lamp is a replaceable bulb in the Instrument Cluster. Refer to Instrument
Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Head Restraint System > System Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Restraints - Driver/Passenger Seat Head Rest Information
Head Restraint System: Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Driver/Passenger Seat Head Rest
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-50-003A
Date: March 24, 2011
Subject: Information on Driver or Passenger Seat Head Restraint Concerns with Comfort, Custom
Upholstery or Other Comfort Enhancing Devices
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Equipped with Adjustable Head Restraints
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 10-08-50-003 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH ADJUSTABLE HEAD RESTRAINTS, USE THE
HEAD RESTRAINT COVERS, FOAM AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT AS
RELEASED BY GM FOR THAT VEHICLE. DO NOT ALTER OR REPOSITION THE HEAD
RESTRAINT SYSTEM. ANY ALTERATIONS TO HEAD RESTRAINTS DEFEATS THE INTENDED
DESIGN OF THE SYSTEM. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE
OF SUCH IMPROPER DESIGN ALTERATIONS, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS
INCURRED.
You may have a customer with a concern that the head restraint is uncomfortable or sits too far
forward. The front driver and passenger seats are equipped with head restraints that have been
designed to help minimize injuries while still providing comfort to the occupants. Each GM vehicle
has its own specifically designed head restraint.
The head restraints should only be used in the vehicle for which they were designed. The head
restraint will not operate to its design intent if the original foam is replaced (1) by non-GM foam or
head restraint, (2) by GM foam or head restraint designed for a different vehicle, (3) by GM foam or
head restraint that has been altered by a trim shop or (4) if any object, such as an aftermarket
comfort enhancing pad or device, is installed.
Never modify the design of the head restraint or remove the head restraint from the vehicle as this
may interfere with the operation of the seating and restraint systems and may prevent proper
positioning of the passenger within the vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Knee Diverter > Component Information > Description and Operation
Knee Diverter: Description and Operation
The knee bolsters absorb energy and control the forward movement of the vehicle's front seat
occupants during a frontal crash, by limiting leg movement.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications
Air Bag Control Module: Specifications Sensing and Diagnostic Module
Sensing and Diagnostic Module
Mounting Fasteners 14 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > System Component Locations
Description
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > System Component Locations > Page 9094
Air Bag Control Module: Locations Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
Component Location Views
At the right passenger compartment, under the right seat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9095
Air Bag Control Module: Diagrams
Sensing Diagnostic Module (SDM)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9096
Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) performs the following functions in
the SIR system:
^ Energy Reserve - The SDM maintains 23 Volt Loop Reserve (23 VLR) energy supplies to provide
deployment energy. Ignition voltage can provide deployment energy if the 23 Volt Loop Reserves
malfunction.
^ Frontal Crash Detection - The SDM monitors vehicle velocity changes to detect frontal crashes
that are severe enough to warrant deployment.
^ Air Bag Deployment - During a frontal crash of sufficient force, the SDM will cause enough
current to flow through the inflator modules to deploy the air bags.
^ Frontal Crash Recording - The SDM records information regarding the SIR system status during
a frontal crash.
^ Malfunction Detection - The SDM performs diagnostic monitoring of the SIR system electrical
components. Upon detection of a circuit malfunction, the SDM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC).
^ Malfunction Diagnosis - The SDM displays SIR Diagnostic Trouble Codes and system status
information through the use of a scan tool.
^ Driver Notification - The SDM warns the vehicle driver of SIR system malfunctions by controlling
the AIR BAG warning lamp.
The SDM connects to the SIR wiring harness using a 12-way connector. If this connector is
removed from the SDM, the UART data link is broken and the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) will
turn the AIR BAG warning lamp ON steady whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN or START
positions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Important Preliminary Precautions
CAUTION: Be careful when you handle a Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM). Do not strike or
jolt the SDM. Before applying power to the SDM:
^ Remove any dirt, grease, etc. from the mounting surface
^ Position the SDM horizontally on the mounting surface
^ Point the arrow on the SDM toward the front of the vehicle
^ Tighten all of the SDM fasteners and SDM bracket fasteners to the specified torque value
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
CAUTION: If any water enters the vehicle's interior up to the level of the carpet or higher and soaks
the carpet, the Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) and the SDM harness connector may need
to be replaced. The SDM could be activated when powered, which could cause deployment of the
air bag(s) and result in personal injury, Before attempting these procedures, the SIR system must
be disabled. Refer to Disabling SIR System. With the ignition OFF inspect the SDM mounting area,
including the carpet. If any significant soaking or evidence of significant soaking is detected, you
MUST:
^ Remove all water
^ Repair the water damage
^ Replace the SDM harness connector
^ Replace the SDM
Failure to follow these procedures could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or
otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 9099
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Removal Procedure
1. Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. 2. Remove the passenger front
seat. Refer to Driver Or Passenger Front Seat in Seats and Carpet. 3. Remove the passenger front
carpet retainer, then roll back the carpet. Refer to Floor Carpet Retainer in Seats and Carpet.
4. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the inflatable restraint Sensing and
Diagnostic Module (SDM) harness connector.
Description
5. Disconnect the SDM harness connector from the SDM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 9100
6. Remove the SDM mounting fasteners (2). 7. Remove the SDM (1) from the floor pan (3).
IMPORTANT: If the SDM mounting holes or fasteners are damaged to the extent that the module
can no longer be properly mounted use the following repair. Torque the replacement fastener with
a hand tool in order to prevent stripping the replacement fastener.
1. Remove the stripped fastener and discard it. 2. Drill and tap the weld nut for use with a 7.00 x
1.0 mm bolt.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
3. Install the SDM with new fastener GM P/N 25601790. 4. Tighten
Tighten fastener to 14 N.m (124 lb. in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 9101
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Installation Procedure
1. Install the SDM (1) to the floor pan (3).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
2. Install the SDM mounting fasteners (2).
Tighten Tighten fasteners to 14 N.m (124 lb. in).
Description
3. Install the SDM harness connector to the SDM.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 9102
4. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the SDM harness connector. 5. Install the
carpet and the passenger front carpet retainer. 6. Install the passenger front seat. 7. Enable the
SIR system. Refer to Enabling the SIR System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. 2. Turn the
ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Remove the key from the ignition switch. 4. Remove the left
IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
IMPORTANT: With the AIR BAG Fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, The
AIR BAG warning lamp illuminates. This is normal operation, and does not indicate an SIR system
malfunction.
Description
5. Remove the AIR BAG Fuse from the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console.
6. Remove the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 7. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the driver yellow 2-way
connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9108
8. Disconnect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
9. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
10. Disconnect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering
column.
Enabling the SIR System
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Connect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9109
3. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
4. Connect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
5. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the driver yellow 2-way connector located
near the base of the steering column. 6. Install the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9110
Description
7. Install the AIR BAG fuse to the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 8. Install the left IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 9. Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
9.1. The AIR BAG warning lamp will flash seven times.
9.2. The AIR BAG warning lamp will then turn OFF.
10. Perform the SIR Diagnostic System Check if the AIR BAG warning lamp does not operate as
described.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9111
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the SIR system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) maintains a reserve energy supply.
The reserve energy supply provides deployment power for the air bags. Deployment power is
available for as much as 10 minutes after disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following
methods:
^ You turn OFF the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the SDM.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR system prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply power.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Child Restraint > Child Seat Tether Attachment >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Child Seat Top Teather Attachment Kits
Child Seat Tether Attachment: Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Child Seat Top Teather
Attachment Kits
Bulletin No.: 99-09-40-004a
Date: April 12, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Top Tether Hardware Package for Child Restraint Seats
Models: 1989-2002 Passenger Cars, Light Duty Trucks and Multi-Purpose Passenger Vehicles
(Except EV1 and Prizm)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2000-2002 model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 99-09-40-009 (Section 09 - Restraints).
Important:
GM of Canada and IPC Dealers are not authorized to utilize this service bulletin.
Beginning in August, 1997 General Motors began providing Child Restraint Seat Top Tether
Hardware Packages to customers in the United States who requested them. The Top Tether
Hardware Package contains the necessary hardware for anchoring a forward facing child restraint
seat top tether.
One Child Restraint Seat Top Tether Hardware Package will be provided per vehicle to the retail
customer at no charge for installation. Charges for installation of additional Top Tether Hardware
Packages per vehicle are the responsibility of the customer.
Most forward facing child restraint seats (CRS) sold in the United States prior to calendar year
1999 were not sold with top tether straps, but have provisions for them. Top tethers, which are
required in Canada, can help to better secure the seat in the vehicle. When a forward facing CRS
including a top tether is used, specially designed components must be used to secure the child
seat top tether. These components are included in the Hardware Package from GMSPO.
Top tethers are not normally required or used with rearward facing infant restraint seats. Rearward
facing infant restraint seats should never be secured in the front seat of an air bag equipped
vehicle unless the vehicle is equipped with an air bag de-activation (shut-off) switch and the switch
has been used to turn the air bag off.
Should a retail customer request installation of a Tether Hardware Package at the time of sale or
delivery, it is to be installed at no charge to the owner. The labor to install a Tether Hardware
Package prior to delivery of a new vehicle to the customer is considered to be part of the delivery
"get ready process", and as such, is not claimable. Claiming for the cost and applicable handling
allowance of the proper Tether Hardware Package used in the installation is allowed.
If the customer requests installation of a Tether Hardware Package some time after delivery, the
package is to be provided free of charge. Hardware Packages include installation instructions
which are easily followed and can be installed by most customers. However, should the customer
request the dealership's assistance to install the Tether Hardware Package, it is to be installed at
no charge to the customer and the labor may be claimed. All claims submitted for installation labor
of an approved Tether Hardware Package must be supported by a signed customer work order.
Additional Hardware Packages and installation charges are the responsibility of the customer.
In addition, passenger vehicle deliveries, including vans and sport utilities for daily rental usage,
may have one tether hardware package supplied. Additional packages are the owner's
responsibility. Dealers may claim appropriate parts under these circumstances. Sufficient quantities
of parts should be ordered in advance of the arrival of vehicles to avoid delays.
Important:
When installing a Child Restraint Seat Top Tether Hardware Package, follow the installation
instructions included in the package. Additional information about specific mounting locations and
installations may be available in the Seat Belt Section (Sections 9, 10-10, 10-11 or 10A) I of the
appropriate Service Manual, or the Restraints section of SI.
Any questions regarding this policy should be directed to your Area Manager, Parts or Service.
Parts Information
For Top Tether Hardware Package part numbers and usage, see Group 14.870 (passenger cars &
U-van), or Group 16.710 (Light Duty Truck) of the appropriate GMSPO Parts Catalog. In addition,
they can also be found in Accessories Group 21.042.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Child Restraint > Child Seat Tether Attachment >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Child Seat Top Teather Attachment Kits > Page 9117
Warranty Information
The dealership will be reimbursed for the parts and labor, if applicable, through the submission of a
regular warranty claim.
All claims submitted must be supported by a signed customer work order. Purchase and installation
of additional Hardware Packages is the responsibility of the customer.
For Top Tether Hardware Packages installed in the United States, submit as a normal warranty
claim using the labor operations and time allowances shown.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Seat Belt: > 99-09-40-001 > May > 99 > Seat Shoulder Belt (Front) - Plastic Cover
Comes Loose
Seat Belt: Customer Interest Seat Shoulder Belt (Front) - Plastic Cover Comes Loose
File In Section: 09 - Restraints
Bulletin No.: 99-09-40-001
Date: May, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Front Seat Shoulder Belt Plastic Cover at Pillar Will Not Stay Fastened (Replace Bolt)
Models: 1995-99 Chevrolet Cavalier (Coupe Only) 1995-99 Pontiac Sunfire (Coupe Only)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the front seat shoulder belt plastic cover will not stay snapped
in place. This cover hides the bolt that attaches to the pillar.
Correction
Replace the shoulder belt to the pillar attaching bolt with new bolt P/N 15674851, using the
following service procedure. Inspect the plastic cover for cracks or damage and replace the cover if
necessary. Also replace the shoulder belt bolt and inspect the cover on the opposite side of the
vehicle.
Service Procedure
1. Remove and inspect the plastic cover by pulling on the bottom of the cover (2).
2. Remove the shoulder belt to the pillar attaching bolt (1).
3. Install the new shoulder belt to the pillar attaching bolt (1) and tighten to 42 N.m (31 lb ft).
4. Install the plastic cover over the bolt head (2).
5. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Seat Belt: > 99-09-40-001 > May > 99 > Seat Shoulder Belt (Front) - Plastic Cover
Comes Loose > Page 9126
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty use:
Labor Labor
Operation Description Time
Shoulder Belt to Pillar
C9050 Attaching Bolts - Replace Both 0.2 hr
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt: > 99-09-40-001 > May > 99 > Seat Shoulder Belt (Front) Plastic Cover Comes Loose
Seat Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Seat Shoulder Belt (Front) - Plastic Cover Comes Loose
File In Section: 09 - Restraints
Bulletin No.: 99-09-40-001
Date: May, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Front Seat Shoulder Belt Plastic Cover at Pillar Will Not Stay Fastened (Replace Bolt)
Models: 1995-99 Chevrolet Cavalier (Coupe Only) 1995-99 Pontiac Sunfire (Coupe Only)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the front seat shoulder belt plastic cover will not stay snapped
in place. This cover hides the bolt that attaches to the pillar.
Correction
Replace the shoulder belt to the pillar attaching bolt with new bolt P/N 15674851, using the
following service procedure. Inspect the plastic cover for cracks or damage and replace the cover if
necessary. Also replace the shoulder belt bolt and inspect the cover on the opposite side of the
vehicle.
Service Procedure
1. Remove and inspect the plastic cover by pulling on the bottom of the cover (2).
2. Remove the shoulder belt to the pillar attaching bolt (1).
3. Install the new shoulder belt to the pillar attaching bolt (1) and tighten to 42 N.m (31 lb ft).
4. Install the plastic cover over the bolt head (2).
5. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt: > 99-09-40-001 > May > 99 > Seat Shoulder Belt (Front) Plastic Cover Comes Loose > Page 9132
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty use:
Labor Labor
Operation Description Time
Shoulder Belt to Pillar
C9050 Attaching Bolts - Replace Both 0.2 hr
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information >
Specifications > Front Seat Belts
Seat Belt: Specifications Front Seat Belts
Front Seat Belts (Coupe)
Front Seat Belts (Coupe)
Retractor Side Belt Sleeve Bolt 42 Nm
Shoulder Belt Pillar Guide Bolt 42 Nm
Shoulder Belt Retractor Bolt 42 Nm
Front Seat Belts (Sedan)
Front Seat Belts (Sedan)
Retractor Side Belt Sleeve Bolt 42 Nm
Shoulder Belt Pillar Guide Bolt 28 Nm
Shoulder Belt Retractor Bolt 42 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information >
Specifications > Front Seat Belts > Page 9135
Seat Belt: Specifications Rear Seat Belts
Rear Seat Belts
Center Belt Anchor Nuts 42 Nm
Side Belt Retractor Bolt 42 Nm
Side Belt Floor Anchor Bolt 42 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Removal Procedure
Seat Belt: Service and Repair Removal Procedure
Description
1. Remove the rear seat cushion. Refer to Seats and Carpet. 2. Remove the rear seat center belt
nut. 3. Remove the rear seat center belt.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Removal Procedure > Page 9138
Seat Belt: Service and Repair Installation Procedure
Description
1. Install the rear seat center belt.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the rear seat center belt nut.
Tighten Tighten the rear seat center belt nut to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
3. Install the rear seat cushion. Refer to Seats and Carpet.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Seat Belt Buckle: > 09-09-40-001A > Feb > 11 > Restraints - Seat Belt
Warning Lamp On/Buckling Issues
Seat Belt Buckle: Customer Interest Restraints - Seat Belt Warning Lamp On/Buckling Issues
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 09-09-40-001A
Date: February 02, 2011
Subject: Seat Belt Buckle Latching Issues and/or Seat Belt Warning Lights Illuminated
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7 X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 09-09-40-001 (Section 09 - Restraints).
This bulletin is being published to advise dealers about seat belt buckles not operating and/or seat
belt warning light illumination, as well as difficulty latching and unlatching the buckle or the buckle
release button sticking.
Analysis of warranty data has determined that this condition may be caused by sticky beverages
being spilled onto or into the seat belt buckle assembly. Foreign debris from food, candy wrappers,
paper and coins can also contribute to this condition.
Important If foreign material (debris) or sticky liquids are the cause of the concern, show the
customer the condition of the component (buckle assembly) and explain how it is affecting the
function of the restraint system. Strongly recommend that the component be replaced. Point out the
fact that this is not a manufacturing defect and is not covered by the new vehicle warranty. If the
customer declines to have parts replaced, the service department management must make a
notation on the service record that the lack of functionality of seating position with an inoperative
buckle was fully explained to the customer. The service department management must advise the
customer that having a non-functioning buckle in a seating position voids ability to use that seating
position (no one should ride in the seat). Also make the customer aware that it may be against the
law to ride in a vehicle without wearing a restraint system.
Important Never insert anything other than the seat belt latch plate into the buckle assembly. Do
not attempt to dig anything out of a buckle with a tool. Never try to wash out a buckle to remove a
spilled liquid as this may damage the buckle.
Use the following steps to determine the cause of the concern.
1. Inspect the buckle assembly with a light shining on the latch plate insertion area. Look for any
debris or foreign objects in the buckle. 2. If any debris or foreign objects are observed, try to
vacuum out the item. After the foreign material is removed, latch and unlatch the seat belt. If
the system functions properly, do not replace the seat belt buckle assembly.
3. If the condition has not been corrected, inspect the buckle assembly for any sticky residue. If
sticky residue is found, inform the customer that a
substance was spilled on the seat belt buckle assembly causing the malfunction. The buckle
assembly will need to be replaced at the customer's expense.
4. Refer to SI for seat belt component replacement.
Important If foreign material (debris) or sticky liquids are the cause of the concern, show the
customer the condition of the component (buckle assembly) and explain how it is affecting the
function of the restraint system. Strongly recommend that the component be replaced at the
customer's expense. Point out the fact that this is not a manufacturing defect and is not covered by
the new vehicle warranty. If the customer declines to have parts replaced, the service department
management must make a notation on the service record that the lack of functionality of seating
position with an inoperative buckle was fully explained to the customer. The service department
management must advise customer that having a non-functioning buckle in a seating position voids
ability to use that seating position (no one should ride in the seat). Also make the customer aware
that it may be against the law to ride in a vehicle without wearing a restraint system.
5. If further restraint diagnosis is required, refer to Seat Belt System Operational and Functional
Checks in SI.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Seat Belt Buckle: > 09-09-40-001A > Feb > 11 > Restraints - Seat Belt
Warning Lamp On/Buckling Issues > Page 9147
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 09-09-40-001A > Feb > 11 > Restraints
- Seat Belt Warning Lamp On/Buckling Issues
Seat Belt Buckle: All Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Seat Belt Warning Lamp On/Buckling
Issues
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 09-09-40-001A
Date: February 02, 2011
Subject: Seat Belt Buckle Latching Issues and/or Seat Belt Warning Lights Illuminated
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7 X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 09-09-40-001 (Section 09 - Restraints).
This bulletin is being published to advise dealers about seat belt buckles not operating and/or seat
belt warning light illumination, as well as difficulty latching and unlatching the buckle or the buckle
release button sticking.
Analysis of warranty data has determined that this condition may be caused by sticky beverages
being spilled onto or into the seat belt buckle assembly. Foreign debris from food, candy wrappers,
paper and coins can also contribute to this condition.
Important If foreign material (debris) or sticky liquids are the cause of the concern, show the
customer the condition of the component (buckle assembly) and explain how it is affecting the
function of the restraint system. Strongly recommend that the component be replaced. Point out the
fact that this is not a manufacturing defect and is not covered by the new vehicle warranty. If the
customer declines to have parts replaced, the service department management must make a
notation on the service record that the lack of functionality of seating position with an inoperative
buckle was fully explained to the customer. The service department management must advise the
customer that having a non-functioning buckle in a seating position voids ability to use that seating
position (no one should ride in the seat). Also make the customer aware that it may be against the
law to ride in a vehicle without wearing a restraint system.
Important Never insert anything other than the seat belt latch plate into the buckle assembly. Do
not attempt to dig anything out of a buckle with a tool. Never try to wash out a buckle to remove a
spilled liquid as this may damage the buckle.
Use the following steps to determine the cause of the concern.
1. Inspect the buckle assembly with a light shining on the latch plate insertion area. Look for any
debris or foreign objects in the buckle. 2. If any debris or foreign objects are observed, try to
vacuum out the item. After the foreign material is removed, latch and unlatch the seat belt. If
the system functions properly, do not replace the seat belt buckle assembly.
3. If the condition has not been corrected, inspect the buckle assembly for any sticky residue. If
sticky residue is found, inform the customer that a
substance was spilled on the seat belt buckle assembly causing the malfunction. The buckle
assembly will need to be replaced at the customer's expense.
4. Refer to SI for seat belt component replacement.
Important If foreign material (debris) or sticky liquids are the cause of the concern, show the
customer the condition of the component (buckle assembly) and explain how it is affecting the
function of the restraint system. Strongly recommend that the component be replaced at the
customer's expense. Point out the fact that this is not a manufacturing defect and is not covered by
the new vehicle warranty. If the customer declines to have parts replaced, the service department
management must make a notation on the service record that the lack of functionality of seating
position with an inoperative buckle was fully explained to the customer. The service department
management must advise customer that having a non-functioning buckle in a seating position voids
ability to use that seating position (no one should ride in the seat). Also make the customer aware
that it may be against the law to ride in a vehicle without wearing a restraint system.
5. If further restraint diagnosis is required, refer to Seat Belt System Operational and Functional
Checks in SI.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 09-09-40-001A > Feb > 11 > Restraints
- Seat Belt Warning Lamp On/Buckling Issues > Page 9153
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9154
Seat Belt Buckle: Specifications Front Seat Belt Buckle
Front Seat Belt Buckle
Belt Bolt 47 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Buckle Side Belt Replacement
Seat Belt Buckle: Service and Repair Driver Seat Buckle Side Belt Replacement
Removal Procedure
Description
1. Remove the driver seat assembly. Refer to Seats and Carpet. 2. Remove the driver seat buckle
side belt bolt (1). 3. Remove the driver seat buckle side belt.
Installation Procedure
Description
1. Install the driver seat buckle side belt.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the driver seat buckle side belt bolt (1).
Tighten Tighten the driver seat side belt bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb. ft).
3. Install the driver seat assembly. Refer to Seats and Carpet.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Buckle Side Belt Replacement > Page 9157
Seat Belt Buckle: Service and Repair Passenger Seat Buckle Side Belt Replacement
Removal Procedure
Description
1. Position the passenger seat assembly forward in order to access the passenger seat buckle belt
bolt. 2. Remove the front seat belt sleeve plug (2). 3. Remove the passenger seat buckle side belt
bolt (3). 4. Remove the passenger seat buckle side belt.
Installation Procedure
Description
1. Install the passenger seat buckle side belt.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the passenger seat buckle side belt bolt (3).
Tighten Tighten the passenger seat side belt bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb. ft).
3. Install the front seat belt sleeve plug.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations
Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Component Locations
At the left passenger compartment, under the left seat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 9162
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 9163
Seat Belt Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Extension > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Extender Availability For Seat Belt
Seat Belt Extension: Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Extender Availability For Seat Belt
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-09-40-005F
Date: June 23, 2010
Subject: Seat Belt Extender Availability
Models: 2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2009 and Prior
HUMMER H2 2010 and Prior HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009‐2011 model years and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-09-40-005E (Section 09 Restraints).
Important:
DO NOT use belt extenders when securing a child restraint.
The seat and shoulder belt restraint systems used in all General Motors vehicles have sufficient
belt length to accommodate most drivers and passengers. Consequently, requests for belt
extensions (extenders) should be minimal.
Seat belt extenders are available ONLY IN BLACK for most GM passenger cars and trucks
produced in recent years. They are available in two different lengths, 23 cm (9 in) and 38 cm (15
in). They are designed to be coupled with the existing belts in each vehicle. When in use, the
extender makes the belt arrangement a "custom fit" and use by anyone else or in another vehicle
will lessen or nullify the protection offered by the vehicle's restraint system. For this reason, it is
extremely important that the correct length extender be used for the vehicle and occupant intended.
Important:
Do not use an extender just to make it easier to buckle the safety belt. Use an extender only when
you cannot buckle the safety belt without using an extender.
Parts Information
For part numbers, usage and availability of extenders, see Extension Kit in Group 14.875 (cars) or
Group 16.714 (trucks) of the appropriate parts catalog. Saturn retailers should refer to the
appropriate model year Parts & Illustration catalog for the vehicle. U.S. Saab dealers should contact
the Parts Help line. Canadian Saab dealers should fax requests to Partech Canada.
Warranty Information
^ Seat belt extenders are a NO CHARGE item to all GM customers who request them for their
specific vehicles.
^ Dealers should not be charging part costs since these extenders are supplied by GM to the
dealers.
^ Dealers should not be charging labor costs since the extender can be customer installed.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Latch > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Seat Belts - Latch Slides To Seat Belt Anchor Sleeve
Seat Belt Latch: Technical Service Bulletins Seat Belts - Latch Slides To Seat Belt Anchor Sleeve
File In Section: 10 Body
Bulletin No.: 73-16-16A
Date: April, 1998
Subject: Seat Belt Latch Slides to Seat Belt Anchor Sleeve (Install Seat Belt Webbing Stop Button)
Models: 1996-98 Buick Skylark 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-98
Oldsmobile Achieva 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire
1996-99 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being revised to update applicable models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 73-16-16 (Section 10 - Body)
Condition
Some owners may comment that the seat belt latch slides to the seat belt anchor sleeve.
Cause
The web stop comfort convenience button may have separated from the webbing.
Correction
Refer to Figure 1.
1. Install seat belt webbing stop button in existing hole.
2. If unable to locate existing hole, remove bolt cap cover at rocker/floor pan mounting and
measure from the center of bolt head; place the seat belt webbing stop button in the center of
webbing using the following dimensions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Latch > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Seat Belts - Latch Slides To Seat Belt Anchor Sleeve > Page 9172
^ Alero and Grand Am (1999), Cavalier, Cutlass and Malibu (Coupe and Sedan) - 460 mm (18
inches).
^ Grand Am (1996-98), Skylark and Achieva (Coupe and Sedan) - 555 mm (22 inches).
a. Make sure latch is above the seat belt webbing stop button.
b. Use caution when snapping button halves together.
c. Remove the sharp point of the male half after installation to prevent scratching or torn clothing.
(Small needle nose pliers work well.)
Parts Information
The following are the button kits for service, consisting of two male and two female buttons.
P/N Description
12453514 Medium Dark Oak
12453515 Graphite
12453516 Adriatic Blue
12453517 Medium Neutral (Taupe)
12453518 Medium Pewter
12453519 Dark Teal
12453520 Red Garnet
12453521 Medium Dark Neutral
12453522 Medium Dark Pewter
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
C9040/41 0.2 hr
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Retractor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement
Seat Belt Retractor: Service and Repair Driver Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement
Sedan
Description
1. Remove the front seat belt sleeve plug (4). 2. Remove the retractor side belt sleeve bolt (3). 3.
Pull on the bottom of the shoulder belt pillar guide cover (2).
Remove the shoulder belt pillar guide cover.
4. Remove the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt (1). 5. Remove the center pillar upper trim panel.
Refer to Roof. 6. Remove the carpet retainer. Refer to Seats and Carpet. 7. Remove the shoulder
belt retractor bolt (5). 8. Lift and pull the retractor in order to disengage the retractor. 9. Remove the
retractor side belt.
Coupe
Description
1. Remove the front seat belt sleeve plug (3). 2. Remove the retractor side belt sleeve bolt (4). 3.
Pull up on the bottom of the shoulder belt pillar guide cover (2).
Remove the shoulder belt pillar guide cover.
4. Remove the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt (1). 5. Remove the rear quarter trim panel. Refer to
Rear Quarters. 6. Remove the seat belt intermediate guide rivet.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Retractor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement > Page 9177
7. Remove the shoulder belt retractor bolt (5). 8. Lift and pull the retractor in order to disengage the
retractor. 9. Remove the retractor side belt.
Sedan
Description
IMPORTANT: Remove any twists in the seat belt webbing before final assembly.
1. Install the retractor side belt. 2. Insert the top of the retractor into the mounting slots.
Pull down the top of the retractor.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the shoulder belt retractor bolt (5).
Tighten Tighten the shoulder belt retractor bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
4. Install the carpet retainer. Refer to Seats and Carpet. 5. Install the center pillar upper trim panel.
Refer to Roof. 6. Install the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt (1).
Tighten Tighten the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt to 28 N.m (21 lb. ft).
7. Install the shoulder belt pillar guide cover (2). 8. Inspect the shoulder belt pillar guide cover for
broken tabs. Replace any cover containing broken tabs. 9. Install the retractor side belt sleeve bolt
(3).
Tighten Tighten the retractor side belt sleeve bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
10. Install the front seat belt sleeve plug (4). 11. Inspect for proper operation of the seat belt
assembly. Refer to Seat Belt Checks and Emergency Locking Retractor Checks.
Coupe
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Retractor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement > Page 9178
Description
IMPORTANT: Remove any twists in the seat belt webbing before final assembly.
1. Install the retractor side belt. 2. Insert the top of the retractor into the mounting slots.
Pull down the retractor.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the shoulder belt retractor bolt (5).
Tighten Tighten the shoulder belt retractor bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
4. Install the seat belt intermediate guide rivet. 5. Install the rear quarter trim panel. Refer to Rear
Quarters. 6. Install the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt (1).
Tighten Tighten the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
7. Install the shoulder belt pillar guide cover (2). 8. Inspect the shoulder belt pillar guide cover for
broken tabs. Replace any cover containing broken tabs. 9. Install the retractor side belt sleeve bolt
(4).
Tighten Tighten the retractor side belt sleeve bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
10. Install the front seat belt sleeve plug (3). 11. Inspect the retractor side belt for correct operation.
Refer to Seat Belt Checks and Emergency Locking Retractor Checks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Retractor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement > Page 9179
Seat Belt Retractor: Service and Repair Passenger Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement
Sedan
Description
1. Remove the front seat belt sleeve plug (4). 2. Remove the retractor side belt sleeve bolt (3). 3.
Pull on the bottom of the shoulder belt pillar guide cover (2).
Remove the shoulder belt pillar guide cover.
4. Remove the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt (1). 5. Remove the center pillar upper trim panel.
Refer to Roof. 6. Remove the carpet retainer. Refer to Seats and Carpet. 7. Remove the shoulder
belt retractor bolt (5). 8. Lift and pull the retractor in order to disengage the retractor. 9. Remove the
retractor side belt.
Coupe
Description
1. Remove the front seat belt sleeve plug (3). 2. Remove the retractor side belt sleeve bolt (4). 3.
Pull up on the bottom of the shoulder belt pillar guide cover (2).
Remove the shoulder belt pillar guide cover.
4. Remove the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt (1). 5. Remove the rear quarter trim panel. Refer to
Rear Quarters. 6. Remove the seat belt intermediate guide rivet.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Retractor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement > Page 9180
7. Remove the shoulder belt retractor bolt (5). 8. Lift and pull the retractor in order to disengage the
retractor. 9. Remove the retractor side belt.
Sedan
Description
IMPORTANT: Remove any twists in the seat belt webbing before final assembly.
1. Install the retractor side belt. 2. Insert the top of the retractor into the mounting slots.
Pull down the top of the retractor.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the shoulder belt retractor bolt (5).
Tighten Tighten the shoulder belt retractor bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
4. Install the carpet retainer. Refer to Seats and Carpet. 5. Install the center pillar upper trim panel.
Refer to Roof. 6. Install the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt (1).
Tighten Tighten the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt to 28 N.m (21 lb. ft).
7. Install the shoulder belt pillar guide cover (2). 8. Inspect the shoulder belt pillar guide cover for
broken tabs.
Replace any cover containing broken tabs.
9. Install the retractor side belt sleeve bolt (3).
Tighten Tighten the retractor side belt sleeve bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
10. Install the front seat belt sleeve plug (4). 11. Inspect for proper operation of the seat belt
assembly. Refer to Seat Belt Checks and Emergency Locking Retractor Checks.
Coupe
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Retractor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement > Page 9181
Description
IMPORTANT: Remove any twists in the seat belt webbing before final assembly.
1. Install the retractor side belt. 2. Insert the top of the retractor into the mounting slots. 3. Pull
down the retractor.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the shoulder belt retractor bolt (5).
Tighten Tighten the shoulder belt retractor bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
5. Install the seat belt intermediate guide rivet. 6. Install the rear quarter trim panel. Refer to Rear
Quarters. 7. Install the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt (1).
Tighten Tighten the shoulder belt pillar guide bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
8. Install the shoulder belt pillar guide cover (2). 9. Inspect the shoulder belt pillar guide cover for
broken tabs. Replace any cover containing broken tabs.
10. Install the retractor side belt sleeve bolt (4).
Tighten Tighten the retractor side belt sleeve bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb. ft).
11. Install the front seat belt sleeve plug (3). 12. Inspect the retractor side belt for correct operation.
Refer to Seat Belt Checks and Emergency Locking Refractor Checks.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Retractor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement > Page 9182
Seat Belt Retractor: Service and Repair Rear Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement
Removal Procedure
Description
1. Remove the rear seat cushion and the rear seat back cushion. Refer to Seats and Carpet. 2.
(Coupe Only) Remove the quarter trim finish panel extension. Refer to Rear Quarters. 3. (Sedan
Only) Remove the quarter upper trim finish panel. Refer to Rear Quarters. 4. Remove the quarter
trim finish panel. Refer to Rear Quarters. 5. (Sedan Only) Remove the center pillar upper trim
panel. Refer to Roof. 6. (Sedan Only) Remove the carpet retainer. Refer to Seats and Carpet. 7.
Remove the rear window panel trim. Refer to Body Rear End. 8. Remove the rear seat anchor
plate bolt. 9. Remove the rear seat belt retractor bolt (1).
10. Remove the rear seat outer retractor side belt.
Installation Procedure
Description
IMPORTANT: Remove any twists in the seat belt webbing before final assembly.
1. Install the rear seat outer retractor side belt.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the rear seat belt retractor bolt (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Retractor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Driver Seat Retractor Side Belt Replacement > Page 9183
Tighten Tighten the rear seat belt retractor bolt to 36 N.m (27 lb. ft).
3. Install the rear seat anchor plate bolt.
Tighten Tighten the rear seat anchor plate bolt to 42 N.m (31 lb ft).
4. Install the rear window panel trim. Refer to in Body Rear End. 5. (Sedan Only) Install the carpet
retainer. Refer to Seats and Carpet. 6. (Sedan Only) Install the center pillar upper trim panel. Refer
to Roof. 7. Install the quarter trim finish panel. Refer to Rear Quarters. 8. (Sedan Only) Install the
quarter upper trim finish panel. Refer to Rear Quarters. 9. (Coupe Only) Install the quarter trim
finish panel extension. Refer to Rear Quarters.
10. Install the rear seat cushion and the rear seat back cushion. Refer to Rear Quarters.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Impact Sensor: Specifications Front End Descriminating Sensor
Front End Descriminating Sensor
Mounting Fasteners 10 Nm
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Auxiliary Discriminating Sensor
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Auxiliary Discriminating Sensor > Page 9190
Description
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9191
Auxiliary Discriminating Sensor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9192
Impact Sensor: Description and Operation
The presence of an inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor enhances the SIR system
performance. Use of the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor provides timely
deployment of the air bags during some crashes. Although this is a mechanical sensor, it is not a
part of the deployment loop but instead only provides an input signal to the inflatable restraint
Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Front End Discriminating Sensor
Important Preliminary Precautions
CAUTION: Be careful when you handle a sensor. Do not strike or jolt a sensor. Before applying
power to a sensor:
^ Remove any dirt, grease, etc. from the mounting surface.
^ Position the sensor horizontally on the mounting surface.
^ Point the arrow on the sensor toward the front of the vehicle.
^ Tighten all of the sensor fasteners and sensor bracket fasteners to the specified torque value.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
Removal Procedure
1. Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System.
2. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the inflatable restraint front end
discriminating sensor harness connector.
3. Disconnect the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor harness connector from the
sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor > Page 9195
4. Remove the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor mounting fasteners (2). 5.
Remove the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor (1) from the hood latch support
bracket (3).
Installation Procedure
1. Install the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor (1) to the hood latch support bracket
(3).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Vehicle Damage Warnings.
2. Install the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor mounting fasteners (2).
Tighten Tighten fasteners to 10 N.m (89 lb. in).
3. Connect the inflatable restraint front end discriminating sensor harness connector to the sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor > Page 9196
4. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the inflatable restraint front end discriminating
sensor harness connector. 5. Enable the SIR system. Refer to Enabling the SIR System.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front End Discriminating Sensor > Page 9197
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Sensor Replacement Guidelines
The SIR sensor replacement policy requires replacing sensors in the area of accident damage. The
area of accident damage is defined as the portion of the vehicle which is crushed, bent, or
damaged due to a collision. For example, a moderate collision where the front of the vehicle
impacts a tree. If the vehicle has a SIR sensor mounted forward of the radiator, it must be replaced.
^ Replace the sensor whether or not the air bags have deployed.
^ Replace the sensor even if it appears to be undamaged.
Sensor damage which is not visible, such as slight bending of the mounting bracket or cuts in the
wire insulation, can cause improper operation of the SIR sensing system. Do not try to determine
whether the sensor is undamaged, replace the sensor. Also, if you follow a Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC) table and a malfunctioning sensor is indicated, replace the sensor.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Buckle Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Component Locations
At the left passenger compartment, under the left seat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Buckle Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 9202
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Buckle Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 9203
Seat Belt Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Passenger Presence System Information
Seat Occupant Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Passenger Presence System
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-50-009F
Date: December 23, 2010
Subject: Information on Passenger Presence Sensing System (PPS or PSS) Concerns With
Custom Upholstery, Accessory Seat Heaters or Other Comfort Enhancing Devices
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Equipped with Passenger Presence Sensing
System
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-50-009E (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Concerns About Safety and Alterations to the Front Passenger Seat
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE THE
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT AS RELEASED BY GM FOR THAT
VEHICLE. DO NOT ALTER THE SEAT COVERS OR SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT. ANY
ALTERATIONS TO SEAT COVERS OR GM ACCESSORIES DEFEATS THE INTENDED DESIGN
OF THE SYSTEM. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF
SUCH IMPROPER SEAT ALTERATIONS, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS INCURRED.
The front passenger seat in many GM vehicles is equipped with a passenger sensing system that
will turn off the right front passenger's frontal airbag under certain conditions, such as when an
infant or child seat is present. In some vehicles, the passenger sensing system will also turn off the
right front passenger's seat mounted side impact airbag. For the system to function properly,
sensors are used in the seat to detect the presence of a properly-seated occupant. The passenger
sensing system may not operate properly if the original seat trim is replaced (1) by non-GM covers,
upholstery or trim, or (2) by GM covers, upholstery or trim designed for a different vehicle or (3) by
GM covers, upholstery or trim that has been altered by a trim shop, or (4) if any object, such as an
aftermarket seat heater or a comfort enhancing pad or device is installed under the seat fabric or
between the occupant and the seat fabric.
Aftermarket Seat Heaters, Custom Upholstery, and Comfort Enhancing Pads or Devices
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE ONLY
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT RELEASED AS GM
ACCESSORIES FOR THAT VEHICLE. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER TYPE OF SEAT COVERS OR
SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT, OR GM ACCESSORIES RELEASED FOR OTHER VEHICLE
APPLICATIONS. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF SUCH
IMPROPER SEAT ACCESSORIES, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS MADE
NECESSARY BY SUCH USE.
Many types of aftermarket accessories are available to customers, upfitting shops, and dealers.
Some of these devices sit on top of, or are Velcro(R) strapped to the seat while others such as seat
heaters are installed under the seat fabric. Additionally, seat covers made of leather or other
materials may have different padding thickness installed that could prevent the Passenger Sensing
System from functioning properly. Never alter the vehicle seats. Never add pads or other devices to
the seat cushion, as this may interfere with the operation of the Passenger Sensing System and
either prevent proper deployment of the passenger airbag or prevent proper suppression of the
passenger air bag.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Navigation > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Instruments - GPS System
Performance Degradation
Antenna, Navigation: Customer Interest Instruments - GPS System Performance Degradation
Info - Global Position Sensor (GPS) Performance Degradation # 00-08-46-003B - (Feb 9, 2005)
Models: 1996-2005 Passenger Cars and Trucks 2002-2005 Saturn Vehicles
with Navigation Systems and/or OnStar(R)
This bulletin is being revised to include additional information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-46-003A (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Navigation and OnStar(R) systems require a GPS antenna in order to function properly. This
antenna may be located inside the vehicle. If the GPS antenna is located inside the vehicle,
performance of the system may be compromised by window tinting film.
If the GPS system performance is in question and the vehicle has window tinting, a quick
diagnostic check can be made by temporarily moving the GPS antenna to an external vehicle
surface, such as the decklid or roof. If the GPS function of the navigation or On Star(R) system
operates normally with the antenna relocated the repair would not be considered a warranty repair.
The subsequent repair procedure or GPS placement would be up to the customer.
Some vehicles have the GPS antenna located on the rear window shelf Objects placed on the rear
window shelf such as tissue boxes, books, dolls, etc,, also have the potential to interfere with GPS
performance.
Warranty Information
Repairs made to the vehicle navigation and/or OnStar(R) system, which are the result of window
tinting, are not considered warranty repairs.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Navigation > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Antenna, Navigation: > 00-08-46-002A > Apr
> 05 > OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts
Antenna, Navigation: All Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement
Parts
Bulletin No.: 00-08-46-002A
Date: April 12, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: OnStar(R) System Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts Availability
Models: 1996-2005 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2005 HUMMER H2
with OnStar(R) and Glass Mounted Antennas
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years, models and parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-08-46-002 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
Replacement parts for the OnStar(R) system cellular antenna are available as follows:
^ Cellular Antenna Kit - If the antenna mast or exterior base is damaged or missing or if the
antenna base has separated from the exterior glass surface.
^ Cellular Antenna Inner Coupling - If the antenna coupling on the inside of the glass requires
replacement.
Important:
If glass replacement is required, both the Cellular Antenna Kit and the Cellular Antenna Inner
Coupling are required. The kits listed contain all the necessary parts and instructions needed to
properly install a new cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling to the glass surface. To
obtain maximum adhesion during installation, the instructions included in the kits must be followed
carefully and exactly as written.
Important:
Do not attempt to reinstall the original cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling using any
type of glue, adhesive tapes, etc. Doing so may eliminate the cellular signal transfer through the
glass and reduce the maximum performance of the system that includes air bag deployment
notification.
Important:
To obtain maximum adhesion between the new cellular exterior base or interior coupling and the
glass surface, the base, coupling and glass must be kept dry and above 15°C (60°F) during the
installation and for the 24 hours immediately following the installation. Not keeping the vehicle dry
and above the temperature listed for 24 hours may result in the new cellular antenna exterior base
or interior coupling coming off.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Navigation > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Antenna, Navigation: > 00-08-46-002A > Apr
> 05 > OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts > Page 9223
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Navigation > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Antenna, Navigation: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb
> 05 > Instruments - GPS System Performance Degradation
Antenna, Navigation: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - GPS System Performance
Degradation
Info - Global Position Sensor (GPS) Performance Degradation # 00-08-46-003B - (Feb 9, 2005)
Models: 1996-2005 Passenger Cars and Trucks 2002-2005 Saturn Vehicles
with Navigation Systems and/or OnStar(R)
This bulletin is being revised to include additional information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-46-003A (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Navigation and OnStar(R) systems require a GPS antenna in order to function properly. This
antenna may be located inside the vehicle. If the GPS antenna is located inside the vehicle,
performance of the system may be compromised by window tinting film.
If the GPS system performance is in question and the vehicle has window tinting, a quick
diagnostic check can be made by temporarily moving the GPS antenna to an external vehicle
surface, such as the decklid or roof. If the GPS function of the navigation or On Star(R) system
operates normally with the antenna relocated the repair would not be considered a warranty repair.
The subsequent repair procedure or GPS placement would be up to the customer.
Some vehicles have the GPS antenna located on the rear window shelf Objects placed on the rear
window shelf such as tissue boxes, books, dolls, etc,, also have the potential to interfere with GPS
performance.
Warranty Information
Repairs made to the vehicle navigation and/or OnStar(R) system, which are the result of window
tinting, are not considered warranty repairs.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Navigation > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Antenna, Navigation: > 00-08-46-002A > Apr > 05
> OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts
Antenna, Navigation: All Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement
Parts
Bulletin No.: 00-08-46-002A
Date: April 12, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: OnStar(R) System Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts Availability
Models: 1996-2005 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2005 HUMMER H2
with OnStar(R) and Glass Mounted Antennas
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years, models and parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-08-46-002 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
Replacement parts for the OnStar(R) system cellular antenna are available as follows:
^ Cellular Antenna Kit - If the antenna mast or exterior base is damaged or missing or if the
antenna base has separated from the exterior glass surface.
^ Cellular Antenna Inner Coupling - If the antenna coupling on the inside of the glass requires
replacement.
Important:
If glass replacement is required, both the Cellular Antenna Kit and the Cellular Antenna Inner
Coupling are required. The kits listed contain all the necessary parts and instructions needed to
properly install a new cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling to the glass surface. To
obtain maximum adhesion during installation, the instructions included in the kits must be followed
carefully and exactly as written.
Important:
Do not attempt to reinstall the original cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling using any
type of glue, adhesive tapes, etc. Doing so may eliminate the cellular signal transfer through the
glass and reduce the maximum performance of the system that includes air bag deployment
notification.
Important:
To obtain maximum adhesion between the new cellular exterior base or interior coupling and the
glass surface, the base, coupling and glass must be kept dry and above 15°C (60°F) during the
installation and for the 24 hours immediately following the installation. Not keeping the vehicle dry
and above the temperature listed for 24 hours may result in the new cellular antenna exterior base
or interior coupling coming off.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Navigation > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Antenna, Navigation: > 00-08-46-002A > Apr > 05
> OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts > Page 9233
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Phone > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts
Antenna, Phone: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts
Bulletin No.: 00-08-46-002A
Date: April 12, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: OnStar(R) System Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts Availability
Models: 1996-2005 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2005 HUMMER H2
with OnStar(R) and Glass Mounted Antennas
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years, models and parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-08-46-002 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
Replacement parts for the OnStar(R) system cellular antenna are available as follows:
^ Cellular Antenna Kit - If the antenna mast or exterior base is damaged or missing or if the
antenna base has separated from the exterior glass surface.
^ Cellular Antenna Inner Coupling - If the antenna coupling on the inside of the glass requires
replacement.
Important:
If glass replacement is required, both the Cellular Antenna Kit and the Cellular Antenna Inner
Coupling are required. The kits listed contain all the necessary parts and instructions needed to
properly install a new cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling to the glass surface. To
obtain maximum adhesion during installation, the instructions included in the kits must be followed
carefully and exactly as written.
Important:
Do not attempt to reinstall the original cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling using any
type of glue, adhesive tapes, etc. Doing so may eliminate the cellular signal transfer through the
glass and reduce the maximum performance of the system that includes air bag deployment
notification.
Important:
To obtain maximum adhesion between the new cellular exterior base or interior coupling and the
glass surface, the base, coupling and glass must be kept dry and above 15°C (60°F) during the
installation and for the 24 hours immediately following the installation. Not keeping the vehicle dry
and above the temperature listed for 24 hours may result in the new cellular antenna exterior base
or interior coupling coming off.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Phone > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts > Page 9238
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Global Positioning System Antenna >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts
Global Positioning System Antenna: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna
Replacement Parts
Bulletin No.: 00-08-46-002A
Date: April 12, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: OnStar(R) System Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts Availability
Models: 1996-2005 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2005 HUMMER H2
with OnStar(R) and Glass Mounted Antennas
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years, models and parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-08-46-002 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
Replacement parts for the OnStar(R) system cellular antenna are available as follows:
^ Cellular Antenna Kit - If the antenna mast or exterior base is damaged or missing or if the
antenna base has separated from the exterior glass surface.
^ Cellular Antenna Inner Coupling - If the antenna coupling on the inside of the glass requires
replacement.
Important:
If glass replacement is required, both the Cellular Antenna Kit and the Cellular Antenna Inner
Coupling are required. The kits listed contain all the necessary parts and instructions needed to
properly install a new cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling to the glass surface. To
obtain maximum adhesion during installation, the instructions included in the kits must be followed
carefully and exactly as written.
Important:
Do not attempt to reinstall the original cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling using any
type of glue, adhesive tapes, etc. Doing so may eliminate the cellular signal transfer through the
glass and reduce the maximum performance of the system that includes air bag deployment
notification.
Important:
To obtain maximum adhesion between the new cellular exterior base or interior coupling and the
glass surface, the base, coupling and glass must be kept dry and above 15°C (60°F) during the
installation and for the 24 hours immediately following the installation. Not keeping the vehicle dry
and above the temperature listed for 24 hours may result in the new cellular antenna exterior base
or interior coupling coming off.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Global Positioning System Antenna >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts > Page 9243
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Alarm Module: Component Locations
At the right front of the passenger compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 9249
Convenience Center
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Alarm Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9252
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9253
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9254
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9255
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9256
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9257
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9258
Alarm Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9259
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9260
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9261
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
(Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9278
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module,
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Alarm Module: Electrical Diagrams
Refer to Antitheft and Alarm Systems level diagrams.
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Alarm Module: Service and Repair
Vehicle Theft Deterrent - Component Changing Diagram
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Vehicle Theft Deterrent - Controller Learning Diagram
Engineers design the PASSLOCK system in order to prevent theft even if the various theft
deterrent parts change. The tamper mode will engage if any of the following components change:
^ The PASSLOCK lock cylinder
^ The instrument cluster
^ The powertrain control module (PCM)
If you replace any of the above components, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the
system enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle.
During the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes. The
instrument cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle.
Ensure that the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the
ignition switch before the indicator stops flashing, ensure that you repeat the long tamper cycle
from the beginning.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Module > Component Information > Service and Repair
Keyless Entry Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open the rear compartment. 3. Remove the left inner
trim panel. 4. Disconnect one of the electrical connectors (3 or 4). 5. Remove the push pins. 6.
Remove the remote control door lock receiver (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the remote control door lock receiver (1) to the rear compartment brace. 2. Install the push
pins to the brace. 3. Connect the electrical connector (3 or 4). 4. Install the rear compartment trim.
5. Close the rear compartment. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Reprogram the new
receiver to the transmitter(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Programming Connector > Component Information > Diagrams
Program Connector
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Receiver > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
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Keyless Entry Receiver > Component Information > Locations > Page 9296
Remote Control Door Lock Receiver
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Keyless Entry Transmitter Battery > Component Information > Service and Repair
Keyless Entry Transmitter Battery: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE Perform the following steps in order to open the transmitter case:
1. Insert a dime between the 2 halves of the transmitter case at the slot provided near the key ring
(5) hole. 2. Twist the dime in order to open the case (6,4). 3. Remove the battery (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the battery (2) with the positive (+) side facing down.
Use one 3-volt CR2032 battery or the equivalent.
2. Ensure the transmitter case seal is in the proper position. 3. Align the 2 halves of the transmitter
case (6,4). 4. Snap the 2 halves of the transmitter case together.
IMPORTANT: Normal battery life is approximately 2 years. Replace the batteries when the range of
the transmitter begins to decrease significantly to less than approximately 7 m (23 ft).
5. Test the operation of the transmitter.
If the transmitter does not function properly, resynchronization may be necessary. Refer to
Transmitter Synchronization. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Lock Cylinder Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Lock Cylinder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Lock Cylinder Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9310
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9311
Lock Cylinder Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9312
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9313
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9329
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9330
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9331
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9332
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9333
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9334
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9335
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9336
Lock Cylinder Switch: Connector Views
Component Location Views
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9337
Component Location Views
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9338
Passlock TM Lock Cylinder
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Lock Cylinder Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9339
Theft Deterrent System Schematics: Passlock Lock Cylinder
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Cellular Phone > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R)/Cell Phone - Integration
Cellular Phone: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R)/Cell Phone - Integration
Bulletin No.: 01-08-46-004A
Date: March 08, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Vehicle Integration of Cellular Phones and Normal Operating Characteristics
Models: 2002 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede:
This bulletin is being issued to cancel Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-46-004. Please discard all
copies of Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-46-004 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin effectively cancels Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-46-004. OnStar(R) no longer
offers cellular phones as part of the OnStar(R) system.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Cellular Phone > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R)/Cell Phone - Integration > Page 9344
Technical Service Bulletin # 83-96-05 Date: 980701
Radio Telephone/Mobile Radio - Install/Troubleshooting
File In Section: 9 - Accessories
Bulletin No.: 83-96-05
Date: July, 1998
Subject: Radio Telephone/Mobile Radio (Transceiver) Installation and Troubleshooting Guidelines
Models: 1990-99 Passenger Cars and Trucks
This bulletin cancels and supercedes bulletin 34-92-12. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
34-92-12 (Section 9 - Accessories).
The following information is being provided to assist in the installation and troubleshooting of Radio
Telephone/Mobile Radios.
Certain radio telephones or land mobile radios (also known as Radio Transceivers), or the way in
which they are installed, may adversely affect various vehicle operations such as engine
performance, driver information, entertainment and electrical systems.
Expenses incurred to protect the vehicle systems from any adverse effect of any such installation
are NOT the responsibility of General Motors Corporation.
The following are general guidelines for installing a radio transceiver in General Motors vehicles.
These guidelines are intended to supplement, but not to be used in place of, detailed instructions
which are the sole responsibility of the manufacturer of the involved radio transceiver. Although this
document refers to passenger vehicles, the same general guidelines apply to trucks.
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Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R)/Cell Phone - Integration > Page 9345
EMC TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
1. Transceiver Location
Refer to the attached figures during installation.
1. Transceiver Location
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Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R)/Cell Phone - Integration > Page 9346
a. One piece transceivers should be mounted under the dash, or on the transmission hump where
they will not interfere with vehicle controls or passenger movement (See Figure 1 - One Piece
Transceiver Installation).
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Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R)/Cell Phone - Integration > Page 9347
b. Locate the transceiver for remote radios on the driver's side of trunk as near to the vehicle body
side as possible (See Figure 2 - Trunk Mount Transceiver Installation).
Caution:
To avoid possible serious injury, do not mount any transceivers, microphones, speakers, or any
other item In the deployment path of a Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) or "Air Bag".
2. Antenna Installation
a. Each vehicle model reacts to radio frequency energy differently.
It is suggested that a magnetic-mount antenna be used to check the proposed antenna location for
unwanted effects on the vehicle.
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Antenna location is a major factor in these effects.
b. The antenna should be a permanent-mount type, located in the center of the roof or center of the
rear deck lid.
If a magnet-mount antenna is used, care should be taken to mount the antenna in the same
location as a permanent-mount type.
If a disguise-mount antenna is used, great care should be taken to shield (using copper tape, etc.)
any tuning network from vehicle electronics and wiring, or mount the tuning network in an area
completely clear (6 inches or 15 cm away) of vehicle electronics and wiring.
c. Standard metal mount antennas may be mounted on a vehicle with non-metallic body panels by
two methods:
1. Mount the antenna near a metal frame section and bond the antenna mount to the frame with a
short metal strap, which will provide the ground plane connection.
2. Some antenna manufacturers may offer "Ground Plane Kits" that consist of self adhesive metal
foil that may be attached to the body panel to provide a ground plane connection.
d. Glass Mount Antennas
Glass mounted antennas should be kept as high as possible in the center of the rear window or
windshield, between rear window defrost "grid lines", if present.
Some vehicles use glass that contains a thin metallic layer for defrosting, or to control solar gain.
GLASS MOUNT ANTENNAS WILL NOT FUNCTION WHEN MOUNTED ON THIS TYPE OF
GLASS.
3. Antenna Cable Routing
a. Always use high quality coax cable (95% shield coverage minimum), located away (at least 6
inches or 15 cm) from ECM's, PCM's and other electronic modules.
b. Care should be taken to maintain as great a distance as possible between any vehicle wiring
and coax cable.
4. Antenna Tuning
It is important that the antenna be tuned properly and that reflected power be kept to less than 10%
(VSWR less than 2:1) at all operating frequencies.
Important:
High VSWR has been shown to contribute/cause interference problems with vehicle systems.
5. Radio Wiring and Power Lead Connection Locations
a. Methods to connect radio power on General Motors vehicles is dependent on the vehicle model
(See Figure 1 - One Piece Transceiver Installation or Figure 2 - Trunk Mount Transceiver
Installation as needed).
Do not connect the negative power lead to any under-dash termination point.
One of the following four methods is suggested:
1. Connect the positive and negative power leads directly to the battery terminals.
GM approved methods of connecting auxiliary wiring include the adapter package illustrated in
Figure 4 - Power Cable Battery Connections.
Important:
It is recommended that a fuse be placed in the transceiver negative power lead.
This is to prevent possible transceiver damage in the event the battery to engine block ground lead
is inadvertently disconnected.
2. Connect the positive lead to the auxiliary power terminal (usually identified by a red plastic cover
in the underhood area).
Connect the negative lead directly to the negative battery terminal.
Important:
See above important statement regarding fusing the negative power lead.
3. Connect the positive lead to the auxiliary power terminal (usually identified by a red plastic cover
in the underhood area).
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Connect the negative lead to the battery body connection point (usually identified by a short # 10
AWG or larger wire running from the negative battery terminal to the body of the vehicle).
Important:
See above important statement regarding fusing the negative power lead.
4. Connect the positive and negative leads to the Special Equipment Option (SEO) wiring provided
for this purpose (if vehicle has this option).
b. For One Piece Transceivers (See Figure 1 - One Piece Transceiver Installation)
When ignition switch control is desired, and no SEO wiring exists, a 12 volt power contactor must
be installed in the transceiver positive power lead (See Figure 3 - Power Contactor Wiring).
The contactor (supplied by the installer) should be located near a proper 12 volt feed source.
One lead of the contactor coil should be connected through an appropriate in-line fuse to an
available accessory circuit or ignition circuit not
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powered during engine cranking.
The return lead of the contactor coil must return to a proper fused negative point.
c. Handset or Control Units
1. Any negative power lead from a handset or control unit must return to a properly fused negative
connection point.
2. It is preferable that the positive power lead for a handset, or control unit, be connected directly to
a properly fused positive power feed point.
If ignition switch control is desired, the handset or control unit positive power lead may be
connected through an appropriate in-line fuse to an available accessory circuit (or ignition circuit
not powered during engine cranking).
3. It is recommended that the handset or control unit positive and negative power leads be
appropriately fused separately from the transceiver positive and negative power leads.
d. Multiple Transceivers or Receivers
If multiple transceivers or receivers are to be installed in the vehicle, power leads to the trunk or
under the dash should be connected to covered, insulated terminal strips.
All transceivers or receivers may then have their power leads connected to the insulated terminal
strips. This makes a neater installation and reduces the number of wires running to the vehicle
underhood area.
Both positive and negative power leads should be fused.
6. Radio Wire Routing
(See Figure 1 - One Piece Transceiver Installation, or Figure 2 - Trunk Mount Transceiver
Installation as needed).
a. The power leads (fused) should be brought through a grommeted hole (provided by the installer)
in the front cowl.
For trunk mounted transceivers, the cables should continue on along the driver's side door sills,
under the rear seat and into the trunk through a rear bulkhead.
Maintain as great a distance as possible between radio power leads and vehicle electronic
modules and wiring.
b. If the radio power leads need to cross the engine compartment, they should cross between the
engine and the front of the vehicle.
Troubleshooting
Refer to the Troubleshooting Chart as needed.
1. Most vehicle-radio interaction is avoided by following the Installation Guidelines outlined above.
2. If vehicle-radio interaction is evident following radio installation, the source of the problem should
be determined prior to further vehicle/radio operation.
The EMC Troubleshooting Chart should help in determining the source of the vehicle-radio
interaction.
Parts Information
P/N Description
1846855 Adapter Kit, Side Terminal Battery (consisting of Adapter Terminal,
Terminal Cover, Wire Connector, Insulation Boot)
12004188 Bolt, Battery Cable Terminal
12354951 Spacer, Battery Cable Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Emergency Contact Module > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems Information
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-64-007A
Date: September 22, 2008
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models affected list above. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-46-007 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog / Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Emergency Contact Module > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems Information > Page 9355
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Aftermarket Device
Interference Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-46-004
Date: August 14, 2008
Subject: Information on Aftermarket Device Interference with OnStar(R) Diagnostic Services
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Car and Truck (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 Models 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
This bulletin is being issued to provide dealer service personnel with information regarding
aftermarket devices connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) and the impact to
OnStar(R) diagnostic probes and Vehicle Diagnostic e-mails.
Certain aftermarket devices, when connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector, such as, but not
limited to, Scan Tools, Trip Computers, Fuel Economy Analyzers and Insurance Tracking Devices,
interfere with OnStar's ability to perform a diagnostic probe when requested (via a blue button call)
by a subscriber. These devices also prohibit the ability to gather diagnostic and tire pressure data
for a subscriber's scheduled OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail.
These aftermarket devices utilize the Vehicles serial data bus to perform data requests and/or
information gathering. When these devices are requesting data, OnStar(R) is designed not to
interfere with any data request being made by these devices as required by OBD II regulations.
The OnStar(R) advisor is unable to definitively detect the presence of these devices and will only
be able to inform the caller or requester of the unsuccessful or incomplete probe and may in some
cases refer the subscriber/requester to take the vehicle to a dealer for diagnosis of the concern.
When performing a diagnostic check for an unsuccessful or incomplete OnStar(R) diagnostic
probe, or for concerns regarding completeness of the OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail,
verify that an aftermarket device was not present at the time of the requested probe. Regarding the
OVD e-mail, if an aftermarket device is interfering (including a Scan Tool of any type), the e-mail
will consistently display a "yellow" indication in diagnostics section for all vehicle systems except
the OnStar(R) System and Tire Pressure data (not available on all vehicles) will not be displayed
(i.e. section is collapsed). Successful diagnostic probes and complete OVD e-mails will resume
following the removal or disconnecting of the off-board device.
Disclaimer
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems Information > Page 9356
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar - Analog-Only Systems
Information
Bulletin No.: 06-08-46-007
Date: December 13, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models: 1996-2001 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Plus: 2002 Buick LeSabre, Rendezvous 2002-2003 Buick Century, Regal 2002-2005 Buick Park
Avenue 2002 Cadillac Eldorado, Escalade Models 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado,
Suburban, Tahoe, Venture 2002 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Jimmy, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2002
Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette 2002-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 2002 Pontiac Aztek, Bonneville,
Montana 2002-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog/Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Global Positioning System > Global Positioning
System Antenna > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts
Global Positioning System Antenna: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna
Replacement Parts
Bulletin No.: 00-08-46-002A
Date: April 12, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: OnStar(R) System Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts Availability
Models: 1996-2005 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2005 HUMMER H2
with OnStar(R) and Glass Mounted Antennas
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years, models and parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-08-46-002 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
Replacement parts for the OnStar(R) system cellular antenna are available as follows:
^ Cellular Antenna Kit - If the antenna mast or exterior base is damaged or missing or if the
antenna base has separated from the exterior glass surface.
^ Cellular Antenna Inner Coupling - If the antenna coupling on the inside of the glass requires
replacement.
Important:
If glass replacement is required, both the Cellular Antenna Kit and the Cellular Antenna Inner
Coupling are required. The kits listed contain all the necessary parts and instructions needed to
properly install a new cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling to the glass surface. To
obtain maximum adhesion during installation, the instructions included in the kits must be followed
carefully and exactly as written.
Important:
Do not attempt to reinstall the original cellular antenna exterior base or interior coupling using any
type of glue, adhesive tapes, etc. Doing so may eliminate the cellular signal transfer through the
glass and reduce the maximum performance of the system that includes air bag deployment
notification.
Important:
To obtain maximum adhesion between the new cellular exterior base or interior coupling and the
glass surface, the base, coupling and glass must be kept dry and above 15°C (60°F) during the
installation and for the 24 hours immediately following the installation. Not keeping the vehicle dry
and above the temperature listed for 24 hours may result in the new cellular antenna exterior base
or interior coupling coming off.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Global Positioning System > Global Positioning
System Antenna > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Cellular Antenna Replacement Parts
> Page 9362
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Navigation System > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems Information
Navigation System: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-64-007A
Date: September 22, 2008
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models affected list above. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-46-007 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog / Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Navigation System > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems Information > Page 9367
Navigation System: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Aftermarket Device Interference
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-46-004
Date: August 14, 2008
Subject: Information on Aftermarket Device Interference with OnStar(R) Diagnostic Services
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Car and Truck (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 Models 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
This bulletin is being issued to provide dealer service personnel with information regarding
aftermarket devices connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) and the impact to
OnStar(R) diagnostic probes and Vehicle Diagnostic e-mails.
Certain aftermarket devices, when connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector, such as, but not
limited to, Scan Tools, Trip Computers, Fuel Economy Analyzers and Insurance Tracking Devices,
interfere with OnStar's ability to perform a diagnostic probe when requested (via a blue button call)
by a subscriber. These devices also prohibit the ability to gather diagnostic and tire pressure data
for a subscriber's scheduled OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail.
These aftermarket devices utilize the Vehicles serial data bus to perform data requests and/or
information gathering. When these devices are requesting data, OnStar(R) is designed not to
interfere with any data request being made by these devices as required by OBD II regulations.
The OnStar(R) advisor is unable to definitively detect the presence of these devices and will only
be able to inform the caller or requester of the unsuccessful or incomplete probe and may in some
cases refer the subscriber/requester to take the vehicle to a dealer for diagnosis of the concern.
When performing a diagnostic check for an unsuccessful or incomplete OnStar(R) diagnostic
probe, or for concerns regarding completeness of the OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail,
verify that an aftermarket device was not present at the time of the requested probe. Regarding the
OVD e-mail, if an aftermarket device is interfering (including a Scan Tool of any type), the e-mail
will consistently display a "yellow" indication in diagnostics section for all vehicle systems except
the OnStar(R) System and Tire Pressure data (not available on all vehicles) will not be displayed
(i.e. section is collapsed). Successful diagnostic probes and complete OVD e-mails will resume
following the removal or disconnecting of the off-board device.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Navigation System > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems Information > Page 9368
Navigation System: Technical Service Bulletins Navigation System - Replacement Navigation
Discs
Bulletin No.: 07-08-44-007
Date: April 17, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Obtaining Replacement Navigation Discs When Radios are Exchanged Order Replacement Navigation Disc Through Navigation Disc Center
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2007 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with a Navigation Radio
Attention:
The purpose of this bulletin is to inform dealership personnel of a new procedure for obtaining a
replacement navigation disc for radios that are sent to an ESC for exchange. This bulletin applies
to U.S. and Canadian dealers only and is not intended for use by export dealers.
When a navigation radio warranty exchange is performed, the customer must have a navigation
disc to operate the new radio. If the customer's navigation disc was damaged or is stuck in the
failed radio, the customer would have to wait for an excessive period of time for the disc to be
returned or replaced. The Electronic Service Centers (ESC) are not authorized to remove stuck
navigation discs from cores, as the cores must be returned to the supplier for analysis prior to any
disassembly. The time it would take for the supplier to return the navigation disc would significantly
delay the completion of the repair at the dealership.
If the customer's navigation disc is damaged or cannot be removed from the radio, the dealership
is to obtain an exchange radio through an ESC and a new navigation disc through the GM
Navigation Disc Center. Both items can be shipped overnight to the dealership upon request.
GM Navigation Disc Center Contact Information
Via the web through gmnavdisc.com
The GM Navigation Disc Center is also the center of expertise for navigation system questions.
Warranty Information
Include the part number and cost of the new navigation disc on the warranty claim for the
navigation radio exchange.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Amplifier,
Sound System > Component Information > Specifications
Amplifier: Specifications
Sound Insulators ..................................................................................................................................
...........................................................2 N.m (18 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Compact Disc Player (CD): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Player (CD) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9379
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Player (CD) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9380
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Player (CD) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9382
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Compact Disc Player (CD): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Player (CD) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9384
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Player (CD) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9407
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 9408
Compact Disc Player (CD): Service and Repair
A compact disc player requires no maintenance. Store compact discs in the protective containers.
Store the containers away from the following hazards:
^ Extreme heat
^ Direct sunlight
For the best results, use the same care in handling compact discs as with conventional records.
compact discs do not require cleaning if you take the following precautions:
^ Always hold the compact disc by the edge.
^ Always return the compact disc to the case directly after playing the disc.
Wipe the compact disc using a clean, dry, lint-free cloth if the disc becomes soiled by any of the
following contaminants:
^ Dust
^ Dirt
^ Fingerprints
Always wipe the compact disc in a straight line, from the center to the edge. Do not use solvents or
abrasive cleaners on a compact disc.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Radio - Delco Exchange Reference
Radio/Stereo: Technical Service Bulletins Radio - Delco Exchange Reference
File In Section: 9 Accessories
Bulletin No.: 83-96-04
Date: June, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Delco Radio Exchange Reference
Models: 1998 Passenger Cars and Trucks, 1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models
This bulletin cancels and supersedes Corporate Bulletin Number 72-01-O1. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 72-01-01 (Section 0 - General Information).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Radio - Delco Exchange Reference > Page 9413
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Radio - Delco Exchange Reference > Page 9414
This bulletin is being issued to 1.) remove radios that are not part of the Exchange Program (see
list of tables). 2.) replace Corporate Bulletin Number 72-01-01 which was in the wrong section.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Radio - Delco Exchange Reference > Page 9415
Radio/Stereo: Technical Service Bulletins Radio Display - Error Code Diagnosis/Repair
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-44-005
Date: April, 2001
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Error Codes on Radio Display - Their Cause and Corrective Action
Models: 1995 - 1999 Buick LeSabre 1995 - 2002 Buick Century, Park Avenue, Regal 1995 - 1996
Buick Roadmaster 1996 - 1999 Buick Riviera, Skylark 1995 - 1999 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo
1996 - 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier 1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV 1997 - 2002 Chevrolet Camaro 1998 1999 Chevrolet Venture 1997 - 2002 Chevrolet Corvette 1995 - 1999 Oldsmobile Aurora, Eighty
Eight 1995 - 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1999 - 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 1998 - 2001
Oldsmobile Intrigue 1995 - 1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1996 - 1999 Oldsmobile Achieva,
Silhouette 1996 - 2001 Oldsmobile Bravada 1995 - 1999 Pontiac Bonneville, Sunfire 1995 - 2002
Pontiac Firebird, Grand Prix 1996 - 2000 Pontiac Grand Am 1996 - 1999 Pontiac Trans Sport 1995
- 2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Trucks 1996 - 2002 Chevrolet and GMC M/L Vans 1996 2000 Chevrolet and GMC G Vans
This bulletin is being revised to update model years and vehicles. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 64-90-04A (Section 9 - Assessories).
Starting in 1995, the family style radios, as well as the 12-disc LLAI and 6-disc LLAI (Low Level
Audio Interface) changers and the 10-disc FMI (FM Interface) changers, have error codes to help
diagnose playback mediums.
Some systems will only have an ERR message and no other indicator. If an ERR message is
encountered without any other identifier, you may review the following error codes to try to
determine the cause of the error and correct it before sending the unit to the authorized service
center. If ERR or E (and a number) appears on a customer's radio display, the number may give
you a clue to the problem and corrective action.
Below is a list of code numbers that may appear on the unit.
Important:
Not all family radios have these codes. They are dependent on the model year.
Cassette Errors
- E10: Tight tape error
Cause(s): A restricted cassette tape transport or broken cassette drive belt
Correction: Substitute a different cassette tape. If there still is an error code, service the unit at an
ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E11: Broken Tape Error
Cause(s): A broken cassette tape
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Correction(s): Substitute a different cassette tape
- E12: Communication Error
Cause(s): A vehicle/radio communication problem or an internal radio communication problem.
Correction(s): Disconnect the battery voltage to the radio then reconnect after a few minutes. If
there still is an error, service the unit at an ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E13: Tape Communication Error
Cause(s): The micro-processor is reading the speed pulses from the tape deck either too fast or
too slow.
Correction(s): It the tape player is still playing a cassette, try a new cassette. If there is still an error,
service the unit at an ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E14: Wrapped Tape
Cause(s): The tape is wrapped around the capstan. This means a tape is wound up in the tape
player. This error message could appear when a CD adapter is being used. Other causes could be
old or damaged tapes. Long playing (90 or 120 minute) tapes are thin and can stretch easily
creating this condition.
Correction(s): Try playing a known good quality tape. Remove the CD adapter.
- Cln Tape Indicator
Cause(s): This message appears after 50 hours of accumulated tape play.
Correction(s): We suggest cleaning the tape head. Then reset the radio by depressing the eject
button for five seconds. Cleaning the heads will not reset the "Cln" display. To reset the "Cln"
display, push and hold the eject button for five seconds. The display will return to its normal
display.
CD Errors
- E20: Focus Error
Cause(s): The CD player cannot focus on the disc or there is an internal focus problem.
Correction(s): Try cleaning the disc or using a new disc. Make sure the disc is loaded correctly. The
road could be too rough or there is too much humidity. If the problem is not corrected, service the
unit at an ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E21: Tracking Error
Cause(s): There is a problem with reading the disc.
Correction(s): Try cleaning the disc or using a new disc. Make sure the disc is loaded correctly. The
road could be too rough or there is too much humidity. If there is still an error, service the unit at an
ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E22: Motor Error
Cause(s): The CD motor is not handling the compact disc properly.
Correction(s): Service or exchange the unit at an ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E23: Communications Error
Cause(s): There is a vehicle/radio communication problem or an internal radio communication
problem.
Correction(s): Disconnect battery voltage to the radio and then reconnect after a few minutes. If
there is still an error, send the unit to an ACDelco(R) Service Center.
LLAI CD Changer Errors
- E30: Focus Error
Cause(s): The CD player cannot focus on the disc or there is an internal focus problem.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Radio - Delco Exchange Reference > Page 9417
Correction(s): Try cleaning the disc or using a new disc. Make sure the disc is loaded correctly. The
road could be too rough or there is too much humidity. If there is still an error, service the unit at an
ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E31: Tracking Error
Cause(s): There is a problem with reading the disc.
Correction(s): Try cleaning the disc or try using a new disc. Make sure the disc is loaded correctly.
The road could be too rough or there is too much humidity. If there is still an error, service the unit
at an ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E32: Motor Error
Cause(s): The CD motor is not handling the compact disc properly or defective magazine mounting
screws are interfering with the mechanism.
Correction(s): Reload the magazine. If there is still a problem, replace the magazine. If the problem
continues, back out the mounting screws. If the condition is corrected, replace the screws with
shorter screws or add washers to the existing screws. If this condition still exists, service the unit at
an ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E33: CD Changer Communication Error
Cause(s): There is a vehicle/radio communication problem or internal radio communication
problem.
Correction(s): Disconnect battery voltage to the radio and then reconnect after a few minutes. If
there is still an error, determine if the problem is with the radio, the harness or the changer. Inspect
for correct voltage at all connectors. If there is still an error, service the unit at an ACDelco(R)
Service Center.
- E34: Changer Door Open
- E35: Changer Magazine Empty
FMI 10-Disc Changer Errors
- E01
Cause: This indicates a malfunction of the disc changer functions.
Correction: Before sending the unit in for service, perform the following procedure:
1. Press the reset button on both the changer and the remote.
The reset button on the changer is located on the front panel of the unit. It can be activated with the
tip of a pin.
2. If the unit does not operate after resetting it, remove the magazine by inserting a business card
between the magazine and the mechanism. The lock lever will disengage to allow the magazine to
eject.
3. Make sure all CDs are in the magazine and none remain lodged in the carriage. If, upon
removing the magazine, a CD is found lodged in the carriage, remove all CDs from the magazine
and reinsert the magazine into the changer.
4. Press the eject button. This should cause the lodged CD to move from the carriage into the
empty magazine. The magazine should automatically eject and normal operation will return.
5. If the changer fails to resume normal operation, send the unit to an ACDelco(R) Service Center.
- E30
Cause: Excessive temperature
Correction: Let the temperature of the changer resume to the normal range.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Radio - Delco Exchange Reference > Page 9418
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9419
Radio/Stereo: Locations
At the center of the instrument panel
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Radio/Stereo: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9422
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9423
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9424
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9425
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9426
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9427
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9428
Radio/Stereo: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9429
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9430
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9431
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Radio/Stereo: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disable the SIR system.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the IP cluster trim plate. 4. Remove the
screws (1). 5. Pull the radio (2) out from the instrument panel (3). 6. Disconnect the electrical
connections. 7. Disconnect the antenna lead connections. 8. Remove the radio (2) from the
vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the electrical connections to the radio (2). 2. Connect the antenna lead connections to
the radio. 3. Install the radio (2) to the instrument panel (3). 4. Install the screws (1) to the
instrument panel. 5. Install the IP cluster trim plate. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7.
Enable the SIR system.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Speaker >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Speaker: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Location Views
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Location View
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Location View
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Location View
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Speaker: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Speaker: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9490
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9494
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9495
Speaker: Connector Views
LF Speaker
LR Speaker
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9496
RF Speaker
RF Speaker
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9497
RR Speaker
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Speaker >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Door
Speaker: Service and Repair Front Door
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the door trim panel. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector (1). 3. Remove the bolts (3).
4. Remove the front door speaker (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the front door speaker (2). 2. Install the bolts (3). 3. Connect the electrical connector (1).
4. Install the door trim panel.
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Speaker: Service and Repair Rear
Standard
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the rear window panel trim. 2. Press the tab on the front of the rear speaker spacer (3).
3. Lift the spacer (3). 4. Pull forward on the rear speaker spacer. 5. Disconnect the rear speaker
wire harness connector (1). 6. Remove the rear speaker spacer (3).
7. Remove the rear speaker screws (1). 8. Remove the rear speaker (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
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1. Install the rear speaker (3) to the rear speaker spacer (2).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the rear speaker screws (1).
Tighten Tighten the rear speaker screws to 1.5 N.m (13.3 lb in).
3. Install the rear speaker wire harness connector (1). 4. Install the rear speaker spacer (3). Insert
the tabs into the slots at the rear window shelf. Press down at the front of the rear speaker spacer
(3) in
order to snap the spacer into place.
5. Install the rear window panel trim.
Convertible
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REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the quarter trim panel. 2. Disconnect the speaker electrical connector. 3. Remove the
retaining nuts (5). 4. Remove the speaker (6). 5. Remove the speaker grille (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
1. Install the retaining nuts (5).
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
2. Install the speaker (6). 3. Install the speaker grille (1). 4. Connect the speaker wire harness. 5.
Install the quarter trim panel.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Tape Player >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Cassette Player - Cleaning and Maintenance
Tape Player: Technical Service Bulletins Cassette Player - Cleaning and Maintenance
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-44-008
Date: October, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Cassette Player Cleaning and Maintenance
Models: 1998-2000 All Passenger Cars and Trucks with Cassette Tape Players
Radios are being replaced and charged to warranty because the customer has commented on any
one or more of the following conditions:
^ The tape plays slow.
^ The tape sounds muffled.
^ The tape sounds garbled.
^ The tape is inoperative.
^ The tape is becoming stuck in the cassette player.
When the radio is returned to the repair center, the cause is found to be a dirty tape head.
When a customer comes in with any of above conditions concerning their cassette player, dealers
should perform the normal cassette player maintenance. Maintenance procedures are in the
Owner's Manual and/or the Service Manual. The customer must be charged for this service.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Tape Player >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Tape Player: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9514
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Tape Player: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9534
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9539
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Tape Player >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cassette Player Care and Cleaning
Tape Player: Service and Repair Cassette Player Care and Cleaning
General Information
For the best operation of the cassette tape deck, do not use cassette tapes that have longer than
90 minutes of total playback time. Cassette tapes longer than 90 minutes may slip or jam.
Head and Capstan Cleaning
IMPORTANT: If a ribbon type clearer is not used, cycle the tape player cleaner at least 3 time for
each cleaning. This is necessary due to the tape tension being monitored. The tape player unit will
read tape cleaners without a ribbon as a broken tape. The tape player unit will reject tape cleaners
without a ribbon.
Clean the following 2 components on a tape player:
^ The head
^ The capstan
Since you are able to reach the above parts through the tape door, leave the tape player in the
vehicle. Perform this cleaning service after every 15 hours of cassette operation.
Use a cotton swab dipped in ordinary rubbing alcohol in order to clean the following components:
^ The head
^ The capstan
Instead of using a cotton swab, you may purchase a cleaning cassette kit. Follow the instructions
on the kit in order to clean the tape player.
Do not touch the tape head using magnetized tools. If the head is magnetized, every cassette you
play in the player will degrade.
Demagnetize the play-back head in the cassette tape deck every 50 hours of cassette play. Follow
the procedure provided by the manufacturer of the demagnetizer tool in order to demagnetize the
play-back head.
The cartridge manufacturer performs the following services on cassette tapes:
^ Service of tapes
^ Warranty of tapes
Store the dealer test tape in the container in order to keep the tape clean.Store the cartridges away
from the following hazards:
^ Extreme heat
^ Direct sunlight
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Component Information > Service and Repair > Cassette Player Care and Cleaning > Page 9542
Tape Player: Service and Repair Ventilation Tips
Clear the hood and front air inlet of the following obstructions:
^ Ice
^ Snow
^ Leaves
^ Any other obstruction
If the hood and front air inlet are clear, the heater and defroster will work more efficiently. A clear
hood and front air inlet will reduce the chance of fogging the following areas:
^ The inside of the windows
^ The stereo components
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Alarm Module: Component Locations
At the right front of the passenger compartment
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Convenience Center
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Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Alarm Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 9555
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Alarm Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 9575
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 9576
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 9577
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 9578
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 9579
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 9580
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 9581
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 9582
Alarm Module: Electrical Diagrams
Refer to Antitheft and Alarm Systems level diagrams.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 9583
Alarm Module: Service and Repair
Vehicle Theft Deterrent - Component Changing Diagram
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 9584
Vehicle Theft Deterrent - Controller Learning Diagram
Engineers design the PASSLOCK system in order to prevent theft even if the various theft
deterrent parts change. The tamper mode will engage if any of the following components change:
^ The PASSLOCK lock cylinder
^ The instrument cluster
^ The powertrain control module (PCM)
If you replace any of the above components, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the
system enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle.
During the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes. The
instrument cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle.
Ensure that the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the
ignition switch before the indicator stops flashing, ensure that you repeat the long tamper cycle
from the beginning.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog
Only Systems Information
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-64-007A
Date: September 22, 2008
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models affected list above. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-46-007 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog / Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog
Only Systems Information > Page 9589
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Aftermarket Device
Interference Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-46-004
Date: August 14, 2008
Subject: Information on Aftermarket Device Interference with OnStar(R) Diagnostic Services
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Car and Truck (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 Models 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
This bulletin is being issued to provide dealer service personnel with information regarding
aftermarket devices connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) and the impact to
OnStar(R) diagnostic probes and Vehicle Diagnostic e-mails.
Certain aftermarket devices, when connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector, such as, but not
limited to, Scan Tools, Trip Computers, Fuel Economy Analyzers and Insurance Tracking Devices,
interfere with OnStar's ability to perform a diagnostic probe when requested (via a blue button call)
by a subscriber. These devices also prohibit the ability to gather diagnostic and tire pressure data
for a subscriber's scheduled OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail.
These aftermarket devices utilize the Vehicles serial data bus to perform data requests and/or
information gathering. When these devices are requesting data, OnStar(R) is designed not to
interfere with any data request being made by these devices as required by OBD II regulations.
The OnStar(R) advisor is unable to definitively detect the presence of these devices and will only
be able to inform the caller or requester of the unsuccessful or incomplete probe and may in some
cases refer the subscriber/requester to take the vehicle to a dealer for diagnosis of the concern.
When performing a diagnostic check for an unsuccessful or incomplete OnStar(R) diagnostic
probe, or for concerns regarding completeness of the OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail,
verify that an aftermarket device was not present at the time of the requested probe. Regarding the
OVD e-mail, if an aftermarket device is interfering (including a Scan Tool of any type), the e-mail
will consistently display a "yellow" indication in diagnostics section for all vehicle systems except
the OnStar(R) System and Tire Pressure data (not available on all vehicles) will not be displayed
(i.e. section is collapsed). Successful diagnostic probes and complete OVD e-mails will resume
following the removal or disconnecting of the off-board device.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog
Only Systems Information > Page 9590
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar - Analog-Only Systems
Information
Bulletin No.: 06-08-46-007
Date: December 13, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models: 1996-2001 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Plus: 2002 Buick LeSabre, Rendezvous 2002-2003 Buick Century, Regal 2002-2005 Buick Park
Avenue 2002 Cadillac Eldorado, Escalade Models 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado,
Suburban, Tahoe, Venture 2002 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Jimmy, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2002
Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette 2002-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 2002 Pontiac Aztek, Bonneville,
Montana 2002-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog/Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Keyless Entry Module > Component Information > Service and Repair
Keyless Entry Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open the rear compartment. 3. Remove the left inner
trim panel. 4. Disconnect one of the electrical connectors (3 or 4). 5. Remove the push pins. 6.
Remove the remote control door lock receiver (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the remote control door lock receiver (1) to the rear compartment brace. 2. Install the push
pins to the brace. 3. Connect the electrical connector (3 or 4). 4. Install the rear compartment trim.
5. Close the rear compartment. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Reprogram the new
receiver to the transmitter(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: Customer Interest Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9602
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9603
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9604
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9610
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9611
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9612
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: Customer Interest Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9621
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9622
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9623
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9629
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9630
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay Module > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 9631
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Lock Cylinder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9637
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9638
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9639
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9640
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9641
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9642
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9643
Lock Cylinder Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9644
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9662
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9665
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9666
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9668
Lock Cylinder Switch: Connector Views
Component Location Views
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Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9669
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9670
Passlock TM Lock Cylinder
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Equipment > Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
9671
Theft Deterrent System Schematics: Passlock Lock Cylinder
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Steering Wheel Controls <--> [Steering Mounted
Controls Transmitter] > Component Information > Service and Repair
Steering Wheel Controls: Service and Repair
Steering Wheel Control Switches Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the steering wheel module. 2. Remove the horn plunger. 3. Remove the steering wheel
redundant control switch mounting screws.
4. Disconnect the steering wheel redundant control switch electrical connector. 5. Remove the
steering wheel redundant control switch from the steering wheel.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the steering wheel redundant control switch to the steering wheel. 2. Connect the steering
wheel redundant control switch electrical connector.
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Controls Transmitter] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 9675
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the steering wheel redundant control switch mounting screws.
Tighten Tighten the steering wheel redundant control switch mounting screws to 2 N-m (20 lb in).
4. Install the horn plunger. 5. Install the steering wheel module.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Towing / Trailer System > Towing Information >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information
Towing Information: Technical Service Bulletins Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information
Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-008F
Date: July 28, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Recreational (Dinghy) Towing
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System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 9681
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years, models and additional information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-00-89-008E (Section 00 - General Information).
Some customers may want to tow their vehicle behind another vehicle with all FOUR tires on the
ground. This is referred to as "dinghy" towing. Towing in this manner is acceptable only on the
certain vehicles. The vehicle should be properly equipped and prepared as described below. The
passenger cars listed above are the vehicles that CAN be dinghy towed. Passenger cars not listed
above are vehicles where dinghy towing is not permitted or recommended.
Certain 4WD trucks can be dinghy towed depending on the transfer case option. Rear wheel drive
and AWD trucks should NOT be dinghy towed. Refer to the truck models and transfer case options
below.
Please refer to the applicable vehicle Owner's Manual before towing.
Passenger Cars
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System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 9682
Note:
The vehicles shown must not be towed backwards or transmission damage may occur.
Towing Procedure
Note:
Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the transmission.
Important:
The towing speed as stated in the Owner's Manual should not exceed 104 km/h (65 mph) for
1995-2005 vehicles.
In order to properly dinghy tow the vehicle, follow these steps:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Open the fuse panel and pull the fuse(s) indicated in the Owner's Manual section detailing
towing your vehicle. This prevents the instrument panel (IP) and/or electronic PRNDL indicator
from draining the battery.
3. Securely attach the vehicle to the tow vehicle.
4. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position, which is one position forward of LOCK. Unlocking the
steering column allows for proper movement of the front wheels and tires during towing.
For 1997-1999 Cutlass, 1997-2003 Malibu, 2004-2006 Chevrolet Classic and 1999-2004
Alero/Grand Am models, turn the ignition switch to the accessory (ACC) position, which is one
position forward of OFF. This position unlocks the transaxle.
5. Shift the transmission to Neutral (N).
Note:
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System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 9683
Use extra care whenever towing another vehicle. Do not exceed the towing vehicle's gross
combination weight (GCW) by adding the weight of the dinghy towed vehicle or vehicle damage
may result.
6. When the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle, release the parking brake.
7. Replace the fuse(s) in the fuse panel when finished towing.
Tracker Models
Note:
Locking the steering column when towing your vehicle may damage the steering column. Always
unlock the steering column before towing.
Important:
^ Two-wheel drive Trackers cannot be dinghy towed. Two-wheel drive models MUST be towed with
the rear drive wheels on a dolly.
^ The towing speed must not exceed 90 km/h (55 mph).
In order to properly dinghy tow a 4WD Tracker, follow these steps:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission into Park (AT) or second gear (MT).
3. With the ignition key in the ON position, move the transfer case to Neutral. Make sure the 4WD
indicator on the instrument panel cluster is Off.
4. Turn the ignition key to ACC in order to unlock the steering wheel.
5. Release the parking brake.
Stop towing the vehicle every 300 km (200 mi) and do the following steps:
1. Start the engine of the towed vehicle.
2. Leave the transfer case shift lever in Neutral.
3. Shift the transmission to Drive (AT). For vehicles with (MT), leave the transmission in second
gear with the clutch engaged.
4. Run the engine at medium speed for one minute to circulate the oil through the transfer case.
2003-2007 Pontiac Vibe
Only the front wheel drive vehicles with manual transmission are designed to be dinghy towed. Use
the following procedure to properly dinghy tow these models:
1. Place the shift lever in Neutral.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position to avoid locking the steering wheel. Make sure that
the audio system is turned off and that nothing is plugged into the power outlets.
3. Release the parking brake.
4. After dinghy towing the vehicle, let the engine idle for more than three minutes before driving the
vehicle.
Four Wheel Drive and All Wheel Drive Light Duty Trucks
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Dinghy towing is permitted on the trucks shown with the transfer case placed in the Neutral
position. Refer to the end of this bulletin for identification information to determine type of transfer
case.
The vehicles shown should NOT be dinghy towed because the transfer cases in these vehicles
either have no neutral position or do not have an internal oil pump to provide lubrication while being
towed. In order to properly tow the vehicles, place the vehicle on a platform trailer with all four tires
off the ground. Avoid towing the vehicle with all four tires on the ground. In rare instances when
towing with all four tires on the ground is unavoidable, both the front and the rear propeller shafts
must be removed in order to prevent damage to the transfer case and/or transmission. Because
front and rear propeller shafts are matched to attaching components at assembly, refer to the
applicable Service Manual for procedures on propeller shaft removal/installation.
Towing Procedure
In order to properly dinghy tow the vehicle, use the following procedure:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
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2. Place the AT in Park (P) or the MT in the lowest gear (1st).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle.
Caution:
Shifting the transfer case to Neutral can cause the vehicle to roll, even if the transmission is in park
(automatic) or 1st gear (manual), and may cause personal injury.
4. If equipped, place the transfer case shift lever in Neutral (N).
Note:
Use extra care whenever towing another vehicle. Do not exceed the towing vehicle's gross
combination weight (GCW) by adding the weight of the dinghy towed vehicle or vehicle damage
may result.
5. When the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle, release the parking brake.
6. The Owner's Manual specifies the appropriate ignition key position to ensure that the steering is
unlocked to allow the front wheels to follow the tow vehicle.
Rear Wheel Drive Light Duty Trucks
Important:
^ Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission through the opening created by the removal of
the slip yoke from the transmission if proper protection is not provided.
^ Verify that the transmission fluid is at the proper level before driving the truck.
Rear wheel drive vehicles, equipped with AT or MT, should NOT be dinghy towed. These
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. In order to properly tow
these vehicles, place the vehicle on a platform trailer with all four tires off the ground. Avoid towing
the vehicle with all four tires on the ground. In rare instances when it is unavoidable that a rear
wheel drive vehicle be dinghy towed, the propeller shaft to axle yoke orientation should be marked
and the propeller shaft removed. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for procedures on
propeller shaft removal/installation.
Transfer Case Identification
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System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 9686
The identification tag on the rear half of the transfer case provides the information shown.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Front Bumper > Front Bumper Cover / Fascia > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - TPO Fascia Cleaning Prior to Painting
Front Bumper Cover / Fascia: Technical Service Bulletins Body - TPO Fascia Cleaning Prior to
Painting
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-51-002
Date: March 12, 2008
Subject: New Primer For TPO Fascias and Affected Cleaning Process of Painting Operation
Models: 2009 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
The purpose of this bulletin is to inform the technician that General Motors has made a change in
the primer it uses for TPO plastic for service parts. This new primer comes in several different
colors from five different suppliers. This change affects the cleaning process of the painting
operation. The new process is as follows.
1. Wash with soap and water.
2. Clean with a 50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water (or a waterborne cleaner). Check with your
paint supplier for product recommendations.
3. Scuff sand per your paint suppliers recommendations.
Note:
The use of a solvent-type cleaner will soften, or begin to dissolve the primer. Base coats do not
have any affect on this primer.
4. Reclean with a 50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water (or a waterborne cleaner).
All fascias, with the exception of the Corvette, Camaro, and Cadillac XLR, are made of TPO. You
may find other TPO parts with this primer. If the technician has a question as to the type of plastic
they are painting, inspect the back of the part for the plastic symbol (TPO).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Front Bumper > Front Bumper Reinforcement > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Polypropylene Energy Absorber Replacement
Front Bumper Reinforcement: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Polypropylene Energy Absorber
Replacement
Bulletin No.: 07-08-63-001
Date: April 17, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Repair of Polypropylene Energy Absorbers
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to change the repair information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 63-20-02 (Section 8 - Body and Accessories).
Because the energy absorbers are relatively low in cost to replace, it is now more cost efficient to
replace the energy absorbers whenever they are damaged.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Rear Bumper > Rear Bumper Cover / Fascia > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - TPO Fascia Cleaning Prior to Painting
Rear Bumper Cover / Fascia: Technical Service Bulletins Body - TPO Fascia Cleaning Prior to
Painting
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-51-002
Date: March 12, 2008
Subject: New Primer For TPO Fascias and Affected Cleaning Process of Painting Operation
Models: 2009 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
The purpose of this bulletin is to inform the technician that General Motors has made a change in
the primer it uses for TPO plastic for service parts. This new primer comes in several different
colors from five different suppliers. This change affects the cleaning process of the painting
operation. The new process is as follows.
1. Wash with soap and water.
2. Clean with a 50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water (or a waterborne cleaner). Check with your
paint supplier for product recommendations.
3. Scuff sand per your paint suppliers recommendations.
Note:
The use of a solvent-type cleaner will soften, or begin to dissolve the primer. Base coats do not
have any affect on this primer.
4. Reclean with a 50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water (or a waterborne cleaner).
All fascias, with the exception of the Corvette, Camaro, and Cadillac XLR, are made of TPO. You
may find other TPO parts with this primer. If the technician has a question as to the type of plastic
they are painting, inspect the back of the part for the plastic symbol (TPO).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Rear Bumper > Rear Bumper Reinforcement > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Polypropylene Energy Absorber Replacement
Rear Bumper Reinforcement: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Polypropylene Energy Absorber
Replacement
Bulletin No.: 07-08-63-001
Date: April 17, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Repair of Polypropylene Energy Absorbers
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to change the repair information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 63-20-02 (Section 8 - Body and Accessories).
Because the energy absorbers are relatively low in cost to replace, it is now more cost efficient to
replace the energy absorbers whenever they are damaged.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Exterior
Handle: > 83-15-18A > Nov > 98 > Door Handle, Front Outside - Sticks
Front Door Exterior Handle: Customer Interest Door Handle, Front Outside - Sticks
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-18A
Date: November, 1998
Subject: Front Outside Door Handle Sticks (Remove Corner of Door Handle)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier (Sedan Only) 1998 Pontiac Sunfire (Sedan Only)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1998 Pontiac Sunfire. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 83-15-18 (Section 10 - Body)
Some customers may comment that the front outside door handle sticks or hits something when
opening the door with the door glass in the full up position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a corner portion of the outside door handle coming in contact with
the glass sash channel.
Correction
1. Remove door trim and partial water deflector.
2. Raise the door handle to the full open and file approximately 3.5 mm (1/8 in.) off the corner of
the door handle (see Figure 1). Check for adequate clearance.
3. Reinstall water deflector and door trim.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Exterior
Handle: > 83-15-18A > Nov > 98 > Door Handle, Front Outside - Sticks > Page 9719
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front
Door Exterior Handle: > 83-15-18A > Nov > 98 > Door Handle, Front Outside - Sticks
Front Door Exterior Handle: All Technical Service Bulletins Door Handle, Front Outside - Sticks
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-18A
Date: November, 1998
Subject: Front Outside Door Handle Sticks (Remove Corner of Door Handle)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier (Sedan Only) 1998 Pontiac Sunfire (Sedan Only)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1998 Pontiac Sunfire. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 83-15-18 (Section 10 - Body)
Some customers may comment that the front outside door handle sticks or hits something when
opening the door with the door glass in the full up position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a corner portion of the outside door handle coming in contact with
the glass sash channel.
Correction
1. Remove door trim and partial water deflector.
2. Raise the door handle to the full open and file approximately 3.5 mm (1/8 in.) off the corner of
the door handle (see Figure 1). Check for adequate clearance.
3. Reinstall water deflector and door trim.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front
Door Exterior Handle: > 83-15-18A > Nov > 98 > Door Handle, Front Outside - Sticks > Page 9725
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front
Door Exterior Handle: > Page 9726
Front Door Exterior Handle: By Symptom
Technical Service Bulletin # 83-15-18A Date: 981101
Door Handle, Front Outside - Sticks
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-18A
Date: November, 1998
Subject: Front Outside Door Handle Sticks (Remove Corner of Door Handle)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier (Sedan Only) 1998 Pontiac Sunfire (Sedan Only)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1998 Pontiac Sunfire. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 83-15-18 (Section 10 - Body)
Some customers may comment that the front outside door handle sticks or hits something when
opening the door with the door glass in the full up position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a corner portion of the outside door handle coming in contact with
the glass sash channel.
Correction
1. Remove door trim and partial water deflector.
2. Raise the door handle to the full open and file approximately 3.5 mm (1/8 in.) off the corner of
the door handle (see Figure 1). Check for adequate clearance.
3. Reinstall water deflector and door trim.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front
Door Exterior Handle: > Page 9727
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Technical Service Bulletin # 83-15-18A Date: 981101
Door Handle, Front Outside - Sticks
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-18A
Date: November, 1998
Subject: Front Outside Door Handle Sticks (Remove Corner of Door Handle)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier (Sedan Only) 1998 Pontiac Sunfire (Sedan Only)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1998 Pontiac Sunfire. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 83-15-18 (Section 10 - Body)
Some customers may comment that the front outside door handle sticks or hits something when
opening the door with the door glass in the full up position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a corner portion of the outside door handle coming in contact with
the glass sash channel.
Correction
1. Remove door trim and partial water deflector.
2. Raise the door handle to the full open and file approximately 3.5 mm (1/8 in.) off the corner of
the door handle (see Figure 1). Check for adequate clearance.
3. Reinstall water deflector and door trim.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front
Door Exterior Handle: > Page 9728
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9729
Front Door Exterior Handle: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Lift the front door outside handle (1). 2. Remove the rivets (2) from the front door outside handle.
3. Remove the rod from the front door outside handle (1). 4. Remove the front door outside handle
(1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9730
1. Install the rod to the front door outside handle (1). 2. Install the front door outside handle (1). 3.
Lift the front door outside handle (1). 4. Install the rivets (2) to the front door outside handle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Interior Handle > System Information > Service and Repair
Front Door Interior Handle: Service and Repair
Handle Bezel Replacement - Inside
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Pull the inside handle to the full open position. 2. Press on the inside handle bezel. 3. Use a
flat-bladed tool in order to pry the handle bezel from the top. 4. Pull the bezel upward.
5. On the front door only, disconnect the door lock switch wire harness (2), if equipped. 6. Remove
the inside bezel (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle >
Front Door Interior Handle > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 9734
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. On the front door only, connect the door lock switch wire harness (2), if equipped. 2. Pull the
inside handle to the full open position.
3. Insert the front tab (1) on the inside bezel to the locating notch. This notch is located behind the
front edge of the opening in the door trim panel. 4. Push downward on the inside bezel in order to
insert the lower tab (2) behind the lower edge of the door trim panel. 5. Insert the rearmost lowest
tab (3) of the inside bezel to the edge of the door trim panel. 6. Snap the top 2 tabs (4) on the
inside bezel into position.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Panel: > 00-08-49-003 > Jun > 00 >
Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched
Front Door Panel: Customer Interest Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 00-05-49-003
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rattle/squeak In Right Side of Instrument Panel or Right Front Door Trim Panel Scratched
or Right Side End of instrument Panel Contacting Door Trim Panel (Remove instrument Panel
Assembly and Align Tie Bar)
Models: 1995-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2000 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition Some customers may comment on:
^ A rattle or squeak type sound coming from the right side of the instrument panel near the right
front door.
^ A scratch or wear mark on the right front door trim panel towards the front of the vehicle.
^ The right side end of the instrument panel contacting or rubbing against the right front door trim
panel.
Cause The tie bar under the instrument panel may not be correctly aligned to the body sheet metal.
The tie bar may also be referred to as the instrument panel carrier support bar or cross vehicle
beam.
Correction Notice:
Do not attempt to align by prying or forcing the instrument panel assembly to the left side of the
vehicle. Doing so will result in damage to the instrument panel assembly, components, door and/or
door trim panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Panel: > 00-08-49-003 > Jun > 00 >
Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched > Page 9743
Remove the instrument panel and align the tie bar (3) to the body sheet metal (4) using the
following procedure. The illustration shows the tie bar when INCORRECTLY aligned (1) and when
CORRECTLY aligned (2). When correctly aligned (2), the hole in the body sheet metal is centered
in the middle of the notch in the tie bar bracket. For additional information on cautions, instrument
panel removal, installation, fasteners and torque specifications, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges
and Console sub-section of Body and Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disable the SIR system.
3. Remove the defroster grille.
4. Remove the instrument panel end panels.
5 Remove the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
6. Open the instrument panel storage compartment and remove the accessory trim plate (Sunfire
only).
7. Remove the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
8. Remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
9. Remove the instrument panel trim pad.
10. Remove the HVAC control.
11. Remove the radio.
12. Remove the air distribution duct.
13. Remove the tilt lever.
14. Remove the steering column covers.
15. Remove the driver's side SIR inflator module.
16. Remove the steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Panel: > 00-08-49-003 > Jun > 00 >
Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched > Page 9744
17. Remove the instrument panel cluster assembly.
18. Remove the defroster duct.
19. Remove the passenger side SIR inflator module.
20. Remove the multi-function switch/lever.
21. Remove the windshield wiper washer lever.
22. Remove the lower instrument panel assembly from the vehicle.
23. Loosen the upper steering column attaching bolts.
24. Remove the lower heater duct trim covers.
25. Loosen the tie bar fasteners, align the tie bar as shown and tighten the tie bar fasteners.
26. Install the lower heater duct trim covers.
27. Tighten the upper steering column attaching bolts.
28. Install the lower instrument panel assembly to the vehicle.
29. Install the windshield wiper washer lever.
30. Install the multi-function switch/lever.
31. Install the passenger side SIR inflator module.
32. Install the defroster duct.
33. Install the instrument panel cluster assembly.
34. Install the steering wheel.
35 Install the driver's side SIR inflator module.
36. Install the steering column covers.
37. Install the tilt lever.
38. Install the air distribution duct.
39. Install the radio.
40. Install the HVAC control.
41. Install the instrument panel trim pad.
42. Install the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
43. Install the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
44. Install the accessory trim plate and close the storage compartment door (Sunfire only).
45. Install the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
46. Install the instrument panel end panels.
47. Install the defroster grille.
48. Enable the SIR system.
49. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Panel: > 00-08-49-003 > Jun > 00 >
Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched > Page 9745
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > 00-08-49-003 >
Jun > 00 > Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched
Front Door Panel: All Technical Service Bulletins Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel
Scratched
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 00-05-49-003
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rattle/squeak In Right Side of Instrument Panel or Right Front Door Trim Panel Scratched
or Right Side End of instrument Panel Contacting Door Trim Panel (Remove instrument Panel
Assembly and Align Tie Bar)
Models: 1995-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2000 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition Some customers may comment on:
^ A rattle or squeak type sound coming from the right side of the instrument panel near the right
front door.
^ A scratch or wear mark on the right front door trim panel towards the front of the vehicle.
^ The right side end of the instrument panel contacting or rubbing against the right front door trim
panel.
Cause The tie bar under the instrument panel may not be correctly aligned to the body sheet metal.
The tie bar may also be referred to as the instrument panel carrier support bar or cross vehicle
beam.
Correction Notice:
Do not attempt to align by prying or forcing the instrument panel assembly to the left side of the
vehicle. Doing so will result in damage to the instrument panel assembly, components, door and/or
door trim panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > 00-08-49-003 >
Jun > 00 > Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched > Page 9751
Remove the instrument panel and align the tie bar (3) to the body sheet metal (4) using the
following procedure. The illustration shows the tie bar when INCORRECTLY aligned (1) and when
CORRECTLY aligned (2). When correctly aligned (2), the hole in the body sheet metal is centered
in the middle of the notch in the tie bar bracket. For additional information on cautions, instrument
panel removal, installation, fasteners and torque specifications, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges
and Console sub-section of Body and Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disable the SIR system.
3. Remove the defroster grille.
4. Remove the instrument panel end panels.
5 Remove the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
6. Open the instrument panel storage compartment and remove the accessory trim plate (Sunfire
only).
7. Remove the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
8. Remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
9. Remove the instrument panel trim pad.
10. Remove the HVAC control.
11. Remove the radio.
12. Remove the air distribution duct.
13. Remove the tilt lever.
14. Remove the steering column covers.
15. Remove the driver's side SIR inflator module.
16. Remove the steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > 00-08-49-003 >
Jun > 00 > Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched > Page 9752
17. Remove the instrument panel cluster assembly.
18. Remove the defroster duct.
19. Remove the passenger side SIR inflator module.
20. Remove the multi-function switch/lever.
21. Remove the windshield wiper washer lever.
22. Remove the lower instrument panel assembly from the vehicle.
23. Loosen the upper steering column attaching bolts.
24. Remove the lower heater duct trim covers.
25. Loosen the tie bar fasteners, align the tie bar as shown and tighten the tie bar fasteners.
26. Install the lower heater duct trim covers.
27. Tighten the upper steering column attaching bolts.
28. Install the lower instrument panel assembly to the vehicle.
29. Install the windshield wiper washer lever.
30. Install the multi-function switch/lever.
31. Install the passenger side SIR inflator module.
32. Install the defroster duct.
33. Install the instrument panel cluster assembly.
34. Install the steering wheel.
35 Install the driver's side SIR inflator module.
36. Install the steering column covers.
37. Install the tilt lever.
38. Install the air distribution duct.
39. Install the radio.
40. Install the HVAC control.
41. Install the instrument panel trim pad.
42. Install the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
43. Install the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
44. Install the accessory trim plate and close the storage compartment door (Sunfire only).
45. Install the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
46. Install the instrument panel end panels.
47. Install the defroster grille.
48. Enable the SIR system.
49. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > 00-08-49-003 >
Jun > 00 > Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched > Page 9753
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9754
Front Door Panel: By Symptom
Technical Service Bulletin # 00-08-49-003 Date: 000601
Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 00-05-49-003
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rattle/squeak In Right Side of Instrument Panel or Right Front Door Trim Panel Scratched
or Right Side End of instrument Panel Contacting Door Trim Panel (Remove instrument Panel
Assembly and Align Tie Bar)
Models: 1995-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2000 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition Some customers may comment on:
^ A rattle or squeak type sound coming from the right side of the instrument panel near the right
front door.
^ A scratch or wear mark on the right front door trim panel towards the front of the vehicle.
^ The right side end of the instrument panel contacting or rubbing against the right front door trim
panel.
Cause The tie bar under the instrument panel may not be correctly aligned to the body sheet metal.
The tie bar may also be referred to as the instrument panel carrier support bar or cross vehicle
beam.
Correction Notice:
Do not attempt to align by prying or forcing the instrument panel assembly to the left side of the
vehicle. Doing so will result in damage to the instrument panel assembly, components, door and/or
door trim panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9755
Remove the instrument panel and align the tie bar (3) to the body sheet metal (4) using the
following procedure. The illustration shows the tie bar when INCORRECTLY aligned (1) and when
CORRECTLY aligned (2). When correctly aligned (2), the hole in the body sheet metal is centered
in the middle of the notch in the tie bar bracket. For additional information on cautions, instrument
panel removal, installation, fasteners and torque specifications, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges
and Console sub-section of Body and Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disable the SIR system.
3. Remove the defroster grille.
4. Remove the instrument panel end panels.
5 Remove the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
6. Open the instrument panel storage compartment and remove the accessory trim plate (Sunfire
only).
7. Remove the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
8. Remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
9. Remove the instrument panel trim pad.
10. Remove the HVAC control.
11. Remove the radio.
12. Remove the air distribution duct.
13. Remove the tilt lever.
14. Remove the steering column covers.
15. Remove the driver's side SIR inflator module.
16. Remove the steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9756
17. Remove the instrument panel cluster assembly.
18. Remove the defroster duct.
19. Remove the passenger side SIR inflator module.
20. Remove the multi-function switch/lever.
21. Remove the windshield wiper washer lever.
22. Remove the lower instrument panel assembly from the vehicle.
23. Loosen the upper steering column attaching bolts.
24. Remove the lower heater duct trim covers.
25. Loosen the tie bar fasteners, align the tie bar as shown and tighten the tie bar fasteners.
26. Install the lower heater duct trim covers.
27. Tighten the upper steering column attaching bolts.
28. Install the lower instrument panel assembly to the vehicle.
29. Install the windshield wiper washer lever.
30. Install the multi-function switch/lever.
31. Install the passenger side SIR inflator module.
32. Install the defroster duct.
33. Install the instrument panel cluster assembly.
34. Install the steering wheel.
35 Install the driver's side SIR inflator module.
36. Install the steering column covers.
37. Install the tilt lever.
38. Install the air distribution duct.
39. Install the radio.
40. Install the HVAC control.
41. Install the instrument panel trim pad.
42. Install the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
43. Install the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
44. Install the accessory trim plate and close the storage compartment door (Sunfire only).
45. Install the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
46. Install the instrument panel end panels.
47. Install the defroster grille.
48. Enable the SIR system.
49. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9757
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Technical Service Bulletin # 00-08-49-003 Date: 000601
Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 00-05-49-003
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rattle/squeak In Right Side of Instrument Panel or Right Front Door Trim Panel Scratched
or Right Side End of instrument Panel Contacting Door Trim Panel (Remove instrument Panel
Assembly and Align Tie Bar)
Models: 1995-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2000 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition Some customers may comment on:
^ A rattle or squeak type sound coming from the right side of the instrument panel near the right
front door.
^ A scratch or wear mark on the right front door trim panel towards the front of the vehicle.
^ The right side end of the instrument panel contacting or rubbing against the right front door trim
panel.
Cause The tie bar under the instrument panel may not be correctly aligned to the body sheet metal.
The tie bar may also be referred to as the instrument panel carrier support bar or cross vehicle
beam.
Correction Notice:
Do not attempt to align by prying or forcing the instrument panel assembly to the left side of the
vehicle. Doing so will result in damage to the instrument panel assembly, components, door and/or
door trim panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9758
Remove the instrument panel and align the tie bar (3) to the body sheet metal (4) using the
following procedure. The illustration shows the tie bar when INCORRECTLY aligned (1) and when
CORRECTLY aligned (2). When correctly aligned (2), the hole in the body sheet metal is centered
in the middle of the notch in the tie bar bracket. For additional information on cautions, instrument
panel removal, installation, fasteners and torque specifications, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges
and Console sub-section of Body and Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disable the SIR system.
3. Remove the defroster grille.
4. Remove the instrument panel end panels.
5 Remove the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
6. Open the instrument panel storage compartment and remove the accessory trim plate (Sunfire
only).
7. Remove the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
8. Remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
9. Remove the instrument panel trim pad.
10. Remove the HVAC control.
11. Remove the radio.
12. Remove the air distribution duct.
13. Remove the tilt lever.
14. Remove the steering column covers.
15. Remove the driver's side SIR inflator module.
16. Remove the steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9759
17. Remove the instrument panel cluster assembly.
18. Remove the defroster duct.
19. Remove the passenger side SIR inflator module.
20. Remove the multi-function switch/lever.
21. Remove the windshield wiper washer lever.
22. Remove the lower instrument panel assembly from the vehicle.
23. Loosen the upper steering column attaching bolts.
24. Remove the lower heater duct trim covers.
25. Loosen the tie bar fasteners, align the tie bar as shown and tighten the tie bar fasteners.
26. Install the lower heater duct trim covers.
27. Tighten the upper steering column attaching bolts.
28. Install the lower instrument panel assembly to the vehicle.
29. Install the windshield wiper washer lever.
30. Install the multi-function switch/lever.
31. Install the passenger side SIR inflator module.
32. Install the defroster duct.
33. Install the instrument panel cluster assembly.
34. Install the steering wheel.
35 Install the driver's side SIR inflator module.
36. Install the steering column covers.
37. Install the tilt lever.
38. Install the air distribution duct.
39. Install the radio.
40. Install the HVAC control.
41. Install the instrument panel trim pad.
42. Install the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
43. Install the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
44. Install the accessory trim plate and close the storage compartment door (Sunfire only).
45. Install the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
46. Install the instrument panel end panels.
47. Install the defroster grille.
48. Enable the SIR system.
49. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9760
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Technical Service Bulletin # 00-08-49-003 Date: 000601
Instrument Panel - Rattle or Squeak/Door Panel Scratched
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 00-05-49-003
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rattle/squeak In Right Side of Instrument Panel or Right Front Door Trim Panel Scratched
or Right Side End of instrument Panel Contacting Door Trim Panel (Remove instrument Panel
Assembly and Align Tie Bar)
Models: 1995-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2000 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition Some customers may comment on:
^ A rattle or squeak type sound coming from the right side of the instrument panel near the right
front door.
^ A scratch or wear mark on the right front door trim panel towards the front of the vehicle.
^ The right side end of the instrument panel contacting or rubbing against the right front door trim
panel.
Cause The tie bar under the instrument panel may not be correctly aligned to the body sheet metal.
The tie bar may also be referred to as the instrument panel carrier support bar or cross vehicle
beam.
Correction Notice:
Do not attempt to align by prying or forcing the instrument panel assembly to the left side of the
vehicle. Doing so will result in damage to the instrument panel assembly, components, door and/or
door trim panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9761
Remove the instrument panel and align the tie bar (3) to the body sheet metal (4) using the
following procedure. The illustration shows the tie bar when INCORRECTLY aligned (1) and when
CORRECTLY aligned (2). When correctly aligned (2), the hole in the body sheet metal is centered
in the middle of the notch in the tie bar bracket. For additional information on cautions, instrument
panel removal, installation, fasteners and torque specifications, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges
and Console sub-section of Body and Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disable the SIR system.
3. Remove the defroster grille.
4. Remove the instrument panel end panels.
5 Remove the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
6. Open the instrument panel storage compartment and remove the accessory trim plate (Sunfire
only).
7. Remove the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
8. Remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
9. Remove the instrument panel trim pad.
10. Remove the HVAC control.
11. Remove the radio.
12. Remove the air distribution duct.
13. Remove the tilt lever.
14. Remove the steering column covers.
15. Remove the driver's side SIR inflator module.
16. Remove the steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9762
17. Remove the instrument panel cluster assembly.
18. Remove the defroster duct.
19. Remove the passenger side SIR inflator module.
20. Remove the multi-function switch/lever.
21. Remove the windshield wiper washer lever.
22. Remove the lower instrument panel assembly from the vehicle.
23. Loosen the upper steering column attaching bolts.
24. Remove the lower heater duct trim covers.
25. Loosen the tie bar fasteners, align the tie bar as shown and tighten the tie bar fasteners.
26. Install the lower heater duct trim covers.
27. Tighten the upper steering column attaching bolts.
28. Install the lower instrument panel assembly to the vehicle.
29. Install the windshield wiper washer lever.
30. Install the multi-function switch/lever.
31. Install the passenger side SIR inflator module.
32. Install the defroster duct.
33. Install the instrument panel cluster assembly.
34. Install the steering wheel.
35 Install the driver's side SIR inflator module.
36. Install the steering column covers.
37. Install the tilt lever.
38. Install the air distribution duct.
39. Install the radio.
40. Install the HVAC control.
41. Install the instrument panel trim pad.
42. Install the instrument panel cluster trim plate (Cavalier only).
43. Install the storage compartment trim plate with compartment lamp (Sunfire only).
44. Install the accessory trim plate and close the storage compartment door (Sunfire only).
45. Install the instrument panel valance (Sunfire only).
46. Install the instrument panel end panels.
47. Install the defroster grille.
48. Enable the SIR system.
49. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 9763
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
Front Door Panel: Service and Repair Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
DOOR INSIDE HANDLE BEZEL AND POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH
Door Inside Handle Bezel And Power Door Lock Switch - Pontiac
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pull door inside handle to the full open position. 2. Press on inside handle bezel. 3. Pry door
inside handle bezel from top using a flat blade tool. 4. Pull door inside bezel upward. 5. (Front Door
Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 6. Front door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 9766
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. (Front Door Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 2. Pull door inside handle to the full open
position. 3. Insert front tab on door inside bezel to locating notch behind front edge of opening in
door trim panel. 4. Push door inside bezel downward to insert lower tab behind lower edge of door
trim panel. 5. Insert rear most lowest tab of door inside bezel to edge of door trim panel. 6. Snap
into place the top two tabs on door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 9767
Front Door Panel: Service and Repair Door Trim Panel Replacement
DOOR TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 38778 Door Trim Pad Remover
1. Remove the inside handle bezel from the front door. 2. Remove the power door lock switch. 3.
Remove the power window switch, if equipped. 4. Remove the window regulator handle, if
equipped. 5. Remove the upper trim finish panel. 6. Remove the lower screws (3) from the front
door trim panel. 7. Remove the screws (2) from the front door arm rest. 8. Using the J 38778,
remove the front door trim panel fasteners from the front door inner panel (1). 9. Remove the front
door trim panel (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Push the front door trim panel (1) inward to engage the fasteners.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the arm rest screws (2).
Tighten Tighten the screws (2) to 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb in).
3. Install the lower screws (3) to the front door trim panel.
Tighten Tighten the screws (3) to 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb in).
4. Install the upper trim finish panel. 5. Install the window regulator handle, if equipped. 6. Install
the power window switch, if equipped. 7. Install the inside handle bezel. 8. Install the power door
lock switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 9768
Front Door Panel: Service and Repair Power Window Switch
POWER WINDOW SWITCH (HARDTOP)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver in order to pry the power window switch outward. 2. Disconnect
the power window switch wire harness. 3. Remove the power window switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the power window switch wire harness. 2. Install the power window switch. Ensure the
unit is retained.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 9769
Front Door Panel: Service and Repair Upper Extension Trim Panel Replacement
Hardtop
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the finish screw that retains the bezel to the front door upper trim.
2. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 9770
3. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control power mirror bezel to the front door
upper trim. 4. Disconnect the power mirror switch. (Power windows only). 5. Remove the upper trim
finish panel from the front door.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 9771
2. Install the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
3. Connect the power mirror switch to the front door upper trim finish panel. (Power window only).
4. Install the front door upper trim finish panel to the remote control power mirror bezel. (Power
window only).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
5. Install the screw to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Convertible
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 9772
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the screw (5). 2. Remove the upper front panel (4). 3. Remove the mirror patch filler (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the mirror patch filler (3). 2. Install the upper front panel (4).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the screw (5).
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 9773
Front Door Panel: Service and Repair Window Regulator Handle Replacement
WINDOW REGULATOR HANDLE REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 9886-01 Regulator Handle Clip Remover
1. Place the door window regulator handle in the upward position. 2. Insert the J 9886-01 or an
equivalent between the door window regulator handle and the door trim panel. 3. Push the J
9886-01 downward.
4. Remove the door window regulator handle (4). 5. Remove the door window regulator handle
bearing plate.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel >
System Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 9774
1. Install the retaining clip to the door window regulator handle (4). 2. Install the door window
regulator handle bearing plate. 3. Place the door window in the closed position. 4. Push the door
window regulator handle (4) in order to secure the retaining clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Glass > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
Front Door Window Glass: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-08-48-005D
Date: September 10, 2010
Subject: Distortion in Outer Surface of Vehicle Glass
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X 2010 and Prior Saturn
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-48-005C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Distortion in the outer surface of the windshield glass, door glass or backlite glass may appear after
the vehicle has:
- Accumulated some mileage.
- Been frequently washed in automatic car washes, particularly "touchless" car washes.
This distortion may look like a subtle orange peel pattern, or may look like a drip or sag etched into
the surface of the glass.
Some car wash solutions contain a buffered solution of hydrofluoric acid which is used to clean the
glass. This should not cause a problem if used in the correct concentration. However, if not used
correctly, hydrofluoric acid will attack the glass, and over time, will cause visual distortion in the
outer surface of the glass which cannot be removed by scraping or polishing.
If this condition is suspected, look at the area of the windshield under the wipers or below the belt
seal on the side glass. The area of the glass below the wipers or belt seal will not be affected and
what looks like a drip or sag may be apparent at the edge of the wiper or belt seal. You may also
see a line on the glass where the wiper blade or the belt seal contacts the glass.
Important The repair will require replacing the affected glass and is not a result of a defect in
material or workmanship. Therefore, is not covered by New Vehicle Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Glass > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information > Page 9779
Front Door Window Glass: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Side Window Chipping Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-64-001B
Date: October 20, 2009
Subject: Information on Side Door Window Glass Chipping Caused by Hanging Vehicle Key Lock
Box
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add vehicles and model years and to include all types of
door window glass. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-64-001A (Section 08 - Body &
Accessories).
- In several warranty parts review cases, side door window glass was observed with a chip or chips
on the top side of the window glass. Dealer contacts confirmed that they use a vehicle key lock box
on the front side door window glass.
- A random selection of side door glass returns will be conducted to confirm adherence. If a side
door glass is discovered with a chip or chips in the location previously described, the side door
glass will be returned to the dealership for debit.
Example of Side Door Glass
- DO NOT place a vehicle key lock box on a side door window glass.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Glass > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information > Page 9780
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Hood Latch > Component Information
> Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 83-15-22 > Dec > 98 > Rear Compartment Lid
Latch - Difficult to Unlock/Open
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Customer Interest Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to Unlock/Open
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-22
Date: December, 1998
Subject: Rear Compartment (Trunk) Lid Latch Difficult to Unlock/Open (Inspect/Replace Cable and
Secure with Strap)
Models: 1995-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-99 Pontiac Sunfire without RPO AUO (Remote Keyless
Entry System)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the rear compartment (trunk) lid is difficult to unlock with the
key.
Cause
The tab on the cable assembly that secures it to the latch assembly may have broken. When this
occurs, the cable may disengage from the latch.
Correction
Using the following procedure, inspect the tab on the cable assembly for signs of breakage.
Replace the cable assembly if the tab is broken. If the tab is not broken, reinstall the cable to the
latch. Secure the cable to the latch assembly with plastic strap.
Service Procedure
1. Open the rear compartment lid to access the latch on the inside.
2. Remove the fastener securing the cable to the latch (see Figure 1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 83-15-22 > Dec > 98 > Rear Compartment Lid
Latch - Difficult to Unlock/Open > Page 9794
3. Inspect the tab on the backside of the cable for signs of breakage (see Figure 2).
^ If the tab has NOT disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is in acceptable
condition and it is NOT necessary to replace the cable assembly. Reinstall the fastener that
secures the cable assembly to the latch.
^ If the tab HAS disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is broken and the
cable assembly must be replaced with a new cable, P/N 22606550. See the appropriate Service
Manual for information on replacing the cable assembly.
4. Using one (1) plastic strap, P/N 12355066, secure the cable portion of the assembly to the latch
as shown in Figure 1.
5. Trim off excess strap material.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: >
99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit - Function/Installation
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Trap Resistant Trunk Kit Function/Installation
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-66-002A
Date: January, 2000
Subject: Trap Resistant Rear Compartment (Trunk) Kit
Models: 1990-2000 Passenger Cars with Rear Compartments Except: 1990-1991 Buick Reatta
2000
Buick LeSabre
1990-1993 Cadillac Allante, Fleetwood Brougham 1997-2000 Cadillac Seville 2000
Cadillac Deville
1990 Chevrolet Caprice
1990-1991 Chevrolet Cavalier 1990-1996 Chevrolet Beretta 1990-2000 Chevrolet Metro, Prizm
1998-2000 Chevrolet Corvette 2000
Chevrolet Impala
1990-1992 Oldsmobile Toronado/Trofeo 1990-1991 Pontiac Sunbird 1990-1993 Pontiac LeMans
2000
Pontiac Bonneville
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models and new part numbers. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-O8-66-002 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The purpose of this bulletin is to inform dealership personnel about the Trap Resistant Rear
Compartment (Trunk) Kit, including the system function, necessary vehicle modifications and part
numbers required to install the kit.
The Trap Resistant Rear Compartment kit is composed of three main system components; one of
which (the Rear Seat Tether), may or may not be needed, depending on the vehicle being retrofit.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: >
99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit - Function/Installation > Page 9800
The first component of the kit is the illuminated Interior Release Handle (1). The Release Handle is
mounted inside the rear compartment to the deck lid. This handle was designed so that a small
child trapped in the rear compartment could use it to open the deck lid. The handle operates the
deck lid latch mechanically, but is illuminated with two LED's when the deck lid is closed. The
handle remains illuminated for a period of about one hour after the deck lid is closed. The LED's
create a small parasitic load that will not drain the vehicle battery with normal usage.
The second component of the kit is the Trap Resistant Latch (2). the Trap Resistant Latch is a
modified deck lid latch designed to help prevent a child from unintentionally closing and latching the
deck lid. The Trap Resistant Latch opens the rear compartment normally through all current means
(key, RKE or passenger compartment release) but cannot be re-latched without the user
performing a reset function. This reset function consists of pushing up on a small knob (3), while
simultaneously pushing a slide mechanism to the right (4). Once the slide mechanism is fully
pushed over, the small knob can be released. This function is a simple on-hand operation for an
adult, but is difficult for a young child to perform. If the latch is not enabled, the deck lid will not
latch and the rear compartment will not close.
The third component is the Rear Seat Tether Kit. If the vehicle is equipped with a pass-through to
the rear compartment and the folding rear seat can be unlatched from within the passenger
compartment without the use of a key or other unlocking feature, then a Rear Seat Tether must be
installed. This tether helps prevent a child from gaining access to the rear compartment of a vehicle
from the passenger compartment by allowing a secondary lock of the seatback. The Rear Seat
Tether employs one or two tethers (one per folding seatback), each permanently connected to a
T-handle anchor mounted in the rear compartment. To lock the folding seatback, the user can
partially fold the seatback and attach the tether to another T-handle anchor mounted to the
seatback. When the tether is affixed to both T-handle anchors, the seat cannot be folded down. To
fold down the seatback, the tether must be removed from the anchor attached to the seatback.
Important:
Installation of the Trap Resistant Latch on some vehicles may require sheet metal and/or trim
modifications to the rear compartment striker area. These modifications should be communicated
with the customer prior to installations. Also, installation of the Trap Resistant Latch requires a rear
compartment lid "ajar" switch. Prior to ordering the Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit, inspect
the old deck lid latch to see if it is equipped with an "ajar" switch. If the vehicle is not equipped with
this switch, P/N 12506174 must be ordered.
After completing the Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit installation, provide the customer with
the supplemental Owner's Manual insert included in the kit and demonstrate the system function.
This program is specially structured for a single purchase price to the owner. The owner is
responsible to pay a maximum of $50.00 U.S.; $80.00 Canadian for parts and labor to install the
complete Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit and Rear Seat Tether(s), if required.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: >
99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit - Function/Installation > Page 9801
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Labor Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 83-15-22
> Dec > 98 > Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to Unlock/Open
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to
Unlock/Open
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-22
Date: December, 1998
Subject: Rear Compartment (Trunk) Lid Latch Difficult to Unlock/Open (Inspect/Replace Cable and
Secure with Strap)
Models: 1995-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-99 Pontiac Sunfire without RPO AUO (Remote Keyless
Entry System)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the rear compartment (trunk) lid is difficult to unlock with the
key.
Cause
The tab on the cable assembly that secures it to the latch assembly may have broken. When this
occurs, the cable may disengage from the latch.
Correction
Using the following procedure, inspect the tab on the cable assembly for signs of breakage.
Replace the cable assembly if the tab is broken. If the tab is not broken, reinstall the cable to the
latch. Secure the cable to the latch assembly with plastic strap.
Service Procedure
1. Open the rear compartment lid to access the latch on the inside.
2. Remove the fastener securing the cable to the latch (see Figure 1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 83-15-22
> Dec > 98 > Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to Unlock/Open > Page 9806
3. Inspect the tab on the backside of the cable for signs of breakage (see Figure 2).
^ If the tab has NOT disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is in acceptable
condition and it is NOT necessary to replace the cable assembly. Reinstall the fastener that
secures the cable assembly to the latch.
^ If the tab HAS disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is broken and the
cable assembly must be replaced with a new cable, P/N 22606550. See the appropriate Service
Manual for information on replacing the cable assembly.
4. Using one (1) plastic strap, P/N 12355066, secure the cable portion of the assembly to the latch
as shown in Figure 1.
5. Trim off excess strap material.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 83-15-15
> Aug > 98 > Rear Lid Latch - Revised Procedure for Replacement
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Lid Latch - Revised Procedure for
Replacement
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-15
Date: August, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 10-8 - Revised Remove and Install Procedure for Rear Compartment Lid Latch
Assembly to Add Spacer
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
This bulletin is being issued to revise the remove and install procedure for rear compartment lid
latch assembly (to add spacer for convertible only) in Section 10-8 of the Service Manual.
Rear compartment Lid Latch Assembly Remove or Disconnect
1. Rear compartment lid latch cable assembly.
2. Unclip cable door at top of rear compartment lock release box.
3. Rear compartment lid remote release cable from lock release box.
4. Rear compartment lid latch assembly bolts.
5. Rear compartment lid latch assembly.
6. Rear compartment lid latch assembly spacer (convertible only).
Install or Connect
1. Rear compartment lid latch assembly spacer (convertible only).
2. Rear compartment lid latch assembly.
3. Rear compartment lid latch assembly bolts.
4. Rear compartment lid remote release cable to lock release box.
5. Clip cable door at top of rear compartment lock release box.
6. Rear compartment lid latch cable assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: >
99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit - Function/Installation
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Trap Resistant Trunk Kit Function/Installation
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-66-002A
Date: January, 2000
Subject: Trap Resistant Rear Compartment (Trunk) Kit
Models: 1990-2000 Passenger Cars with Rear Compartments Except: 1990-1991 Buick Reatta
2000
Buick LeSabre
1990-1993 Cadillac Allante, Fleetwood Brougham 1997-2000 Cadillac Seville 2000
Cadillac Deville
1990 Chevrolet Caprice
1990-1991 Chevrolet Cavalier 1990-1996 Chevrolet Beretta 1990-2000 Chevrolet Metro, Prizm
1998-2000 Chevrolet Corvette 2000
Chevrolet Impala
1990-1992 Oldsmobile Toronado/Trofeo 1990-1991 Pontiac Sunbird 1990-1993 Pontiac LeMans
2000
Pontiac Bonneville
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models and new part numbers. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-O8-66-002 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The purpose of this bulletin is to inform dealership personnel about the Trap Resistant Rear
Compartment (Trunk) Kit, including the system function, necessary vehicle modifications and part
numbers required to install the kit.
The Trap Resistant Rear Compartment kit is composed of three main system components; one of
which (the Rear Seat Tether), may or may not be needed, depending on the vehicle being retrofit.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: >
99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit - Function/Installation > Page 9816
The first component of the kit is the illuminated Interior Release Handle (1). The Release Handle is
mounted inside the rear compartment to the deck lid. This handle was designed so that a small
child trapped in the rear compartment could use it to open the deck lid. The handle operates the
deck lid latch mechanically, but is illuminated with two LED's when the deck lid is closed. The
handle remains illuminated for a period of about one hour after the deck lid is closed. The LED's
create a small parasitic load that will not drain the vehicle battery with normal usage.
The second component of the kit is the Trap Resistant Latch (2). the Trap Resistant Latch is a
modified deck lid latch designed to help prevent a child from unintentionally closing and latching the
deck lid. The Trap Resistant Latch opens the rear compartment normally through all current means
(key, RKE or passenger compartment release) but cannot be re-latched without the user
performing a reset function. This reset function consists of pushing up on a small knob (3), while
simultaneously pushing a slide mechanism to the right (4). Once the slide mechanism is fully
pushed over, the small knob can be released. This function is a simple on-hand operation for an
adult, but is difficult for a young child to perform. If the latch is not enabled, the deck lid will not
latch and the rear compartment will not close.
The third component is the Rear Seat Tether Kit. If the vehicle is equipped with a pass-through to
the rear compartment and the folding rear seat can be unlatched from within the passenger
compartment without the use of a key or other unlocking feature, then a Rear Seat Tether must be
installed. This tether helps prevent a child from gaining access to the rear compartment of a vehicle
from the passenger compartment by allowing a secondary lock of the seatback. The Rear Seat
Tether employs one or two tethers (one per folding seatback), each permanently connected to a
T-handle anchor mounted in the rear compartment. To lock the folding seatback, the user can
partially fold the seatback and attach the tether to another T-handle anchor mounted to the
seatback. When the tether is affixed to both T-handle anchors, the seat cannot be folded down. To
fold down the seatback, the tether must be removed from the anchor attached to the seatback.
Important:
Installation of the Trap Resistant Latch on some vehicles may require sheet metal and/or trim
modifications to the rear compartment striker area. These modifications should be communicated
with the customer prior to installations. Also, installation of the Trap Resistant Latch requires a rear
compartment lid "ajar" switch. Prior to ordering the Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit, inspect
the old deck lid latch to see if it is equipped with an "ajar" switch. If the vehicle is not equipped with
this switch, P/N 12506174 must be ordered.
After completing the Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit installation, provide the customer with
the supplemental Owner's Manual insert included in the kit and demonstrate the system function.
This program is specially structured for a single purchase price to the owner. The owner is
responsible to pay a maximum of $50.00 U.S.; $80.00 Canadian for parts and labor to install the
complete Trap Resistant Rear Compartment Kit and Rear Seat Tether(s), if required.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: >
99-08-66-002A > Jan > 00 > Trap Resistant Trunk Kit - Function/Installation > Page 9817
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Labor Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 83-15-15 >
Aug > 98 > Rear Lid Latch - Revised Procedure for Replacement
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Lid Latch - Revised Procedure for
Replacement
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-15
Date: August, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 10-8 - Revised Remove and Install Procedure for Rear Compartment Lid Latch
Assembly to Add Spacer
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
This bulletin is being issued to revise the remove and install procedure for rear compartment lid
latch assembly (to add spacer for convertible only) in Section 10-8 of the Service Manual.
Rear compartment Lid Latch Assembly Remove or Disconnect
1. Rear compartment lid latch cable assembly.
2. Unclip cable door at top of rear compartment lock release box.
3. Rear compartment lid remote release cable from lock release box.
4. Rear compartment lid latch assembly bolts.
5. Rear compartment lid latch assembly.
6. Rear compartment lid latch assembly spacer (convertible only).
Install or Connect
1. Rear compartment lid latch assembly spacer (convertible only).
2. Rear compartment lid latch assembly.
3. Rear compartment lid latch assembly bolts.
4. Rear compartment lid remote release cable to lock release box.
5. Clip cable door at top of rear compartment lock release box.
6. Rear compartment lid latch cable assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 83-15-22 > Dec > 98 > Rear
Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to Unlock/Open
Trunk / Liftgate Latch Release Cable: Customer Interest Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to
Unlock/Open
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-22
Date: December, 1998
Subject: Rear Compartment (Trunk) Lid Latch Difficult to Unlock/Open (Inspect/Replace Cable and
Secure with Strap)
Models: 1995-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-99 Pontiac Sunfire without RPO AUO (Remote Keyless
Entry System)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the rear compartment (trunk) lid is difficult to unlock with the
key.
Cause
The tab on the cable assembly that secures it to the latch assembly may have broken. When this
occurs, the cable may disengage from the latch.
Correction
Using the following procedure, inspect the tab on the cable assembly for signs of breakage.
Replace the cable assembly if the tab is broken. If the tab is not broken, reinstall the cable to the
latch. Secure the cable to the latch assembly with plastic strap.
Service Procedure
1. Open the rear compartment lid to access the latch on the inside.
2. Remove the fastener securing the cable to the latch (see Figure 1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 83-15-22 > Dec > 98 > Rear
Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to Unlock/Open > Page 9830
3. Inspect the tab on the backside of the cable for signs of breakage (see Figure 2).
^ If the tab has NOT disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is in acceptable
condition and it is NOT necessary to replace the cable assembly. Reinstall the fastener that
secures the cable assembly to the latch.
^ If the tab HAS disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is broken and the
cable assembly must be replaced with a new cable, P/N 22606550. See the appropriate Service
Manual for information on replacing the cable assembly.
4. Using one (1) plastic strap, P/N 12355066, secure the cable portion of the assembly to the latch
as shown in Figure 1.
5. Trim off excess strap material.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 83-15-22 > Dec
> 98 > Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to Unlock/Open
Trunk / Liftgate Latch Release Cable: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Compartment Lid Latch Difficult to Unlock/Open
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-22
Date: December, 1998
Subject: Rear Compartment (Trunk) Lid Latch Difficult to Unlock/Open (Inspect/Replace Cable and
Secure with Strap)
Models: 1995-99 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-99 Pontiac Sunfire without RPO AUO (Remote Keyless
Entry System)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the rear compartment (trunk) lid is difficult to unlock with the
key.
Cause
The tab on the cable assembly that secures it to the latch assembly may have broken. When this
occurs, the cable may disengage from the latch.
Correction
Using the following procedure, inspect the tab on the cable assembly for signs of breakage.
Replace the cable assembly if the tab is broken. If the tab is not broken, reinstall the cable to the
latch. Secure the cable to the latch assembly with plastic strap.
Service Procedure
1. Open the rear compartment lid to access the latch on the inside.
2. Remove the fastener securing the cable to the latch (see Figure 1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 83-15-22 > Dec
> 98 > Rear Compartment Lid Latch - Difficult to Unlock/Open > Page 9836
3. Inspect the tab on the backside of the cable for signs of breakage (see Figure 2).
^ If the tab has NOT disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is in acceptable
condition and it is NOT necessary to replace the cable assembly. Reinstall the fastener that
secures the cable assembly to the latch.
^ If the tab HAS disengaged from the latch after removing the fastener, the tab is broken and the
cable assembly must be replaced with a new cable, P/N 22606550. See the appropriate Service
Manual for information on replacing the cable assembly.
4. Using one (1) plastic strap, P/N 12355066, secure the cable portion of the assembly to the latch
as shown in Figure 1.
5. Trim off excess strap material.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 9842
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 9843
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 9849
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch
Release Cable: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 9850
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Solenoid >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > Body Emblem > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > 06-08-111-004B - BULLETIN CANCELLATION NOTIFICATION
Body Emblem: Technical Service Bulletins 06-08-111-004B - BULLETIN CANCELLATION
NOTIFICATION
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 06-08-111-004B
Date: September 25, 2009
Subject: Information on Discoloration, Blistering, Peeling or Erosion of Various Exterior Emblems
Including Chevy Bowtie (Bulletin Cancelled)
Models:
2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2003-2009 HUMMER H2
2006-2009 HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being cancelled. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
06-08-111-004A (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
This bulletin is being cancelled. The information is no longer applicable.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Fender > Component Information > Locations
Fender: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Fender > Component Information > Locations > Page 9862
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Suspension (Front) - Torque Specification Update
Cross-Member: Technical Service Bulletins Suspension (Front) - Torque Specification Update
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 02-03-08-006
Date: May, 2002
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Front Suspension Fastener Tightening Specifications
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2002 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the fastener tightening specifications in the Lower Control
Arm Replacement Procedure and the Fastener Tightening Specifications in the Front Suspension
sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in the Service Manual
with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The following tightening specification has been revised:
Control Arm to Crossmember Bolts (Front Bushing) - 100 N.m plus 90 degrees rotation (74 lb ft).
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 9868
Cross-Member: Specifications
Crossmember Support Left Rear Outboard Bolt:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
90°
Crossmember Support Right Rear Outboard Bolt:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
90°
Crossmember Support Upper Front Bolts:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
90°
Crossmember Support Rear Inboard Bolts:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
90°
Front Suspension Frame to Body Left Rear Bolt:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Front Suspension Frame to Body Right Rear Bolt:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 110 N.m (71 ft. lbs.) Final .....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
180°
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Suspension
Cross-Member: Service and Repair Front Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
^ Tool Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. If a suspension hoist is to be used:
^ Place the jack stand under the uni-body frame near the crossmember.
^ Lower the vehicle slightly so the weight of the vehicle rests on the under uni-body frame. Do not
rest on the control arms or crossmember.
3. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL in TIRES AND WHEELS.
4. Disconnect the right and left wiring harnesses from the crossmember.
NOTICE: Use only the recommended tools for separating the ball joint from the knuckle. Failure to
use the recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
5. Use the J 38892 in order to remove the ball joint (3) from the knuckle (2). 6. Remove the engine
strut mount from the crossmember. Refer to ENGINE.
7. Remove the crossmember extension brace (3) bolts (2 and 4) from the lower tie bar (5).
^ Remove the front exhaust pipe. Support the catalytic converter. Refer to CATALYTIC
CONVERTER in EXHAUST SYSTEM.
8. Remove the power steering gear bolts. Support the power steering gear. 9. Disconnect the brake
lines from the retainers on the crossmember
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Suspension > Page 9871
10. Remove the splash shield from the crossmember. 11. Remove the stabilizer bar (3) from the
crossmember (5).
12. Remove the crossmember bolts (2 through 8). 13. Remove the crossmember.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Suspension > Page 9872
14. Remove the control arms (3) from the crossmember (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the control arms (3) to the crossmember (1). Snug the bolts. 2. Install the crossmember.
Finger tighten all of the bolts.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown below:
Tighten ^
Tighten the crossmember support left rear outboard bolt to 110 Nm (71 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° rotation.
^ Tighten the crossmember support right rear outboard bolt to 110 Nm (71 ft. lbs.) plus a 90°
rotation.
^ Tighten the crossmember support upper front bolts to 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° rotation.
^ Tighten the crossmember support rear inboard bolts to 110 Nm (71 ft. lbs.) plus a 90 rotation.
Important: Do not loosen the nut any time during the installation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Suspension > Page 9873
4. Install the nut (4) attaching the ball joint (3) to the steering knuckle (2).
Tighten Tighten the nut to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.) minimum - 65 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) maximum.
5. install the cotter pin (1). 6. Install the left power steering gear bolts. Refer to POWER STEERING
GEAR AND PUMP in STEERING for fastener tightening specifications. 7. Install the right power
steering gear bolts. Refer to POWER STEERING GEAR AND PUMP in STEERING for fastener
tightening specifications. 8. Install the front exhaust pipe. Refer to ENGINE EXHAUST in
EXHAUST for tightening specifications. 9. Install the crossmember support braces.
Tighten Tighten the core support bolts to the crossmember braces to 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.).
10. Install the engine strut mount to the crossmember. Refer to ENGINE for tightening
specifications.
11. Install the stabilizer bar (3) to the crossmember (5).
Tighten Tighten the stabilizer shaft to support the assembly bolt to 66 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
12. Install the splash shield to the crossmember (5). 13. Connect the brake lines to the retainers to
the crossmember. 14. Install the right and left wiring harnesses to the crossmember. 15. Slightly
raise the vehicle. 16. Remove the jack stand from under the crossmember. 17. Install the tire and
wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION in TIRES AND WHEELS. 18. Tighten the
control arm attaching bolts, with the vehicle at curb height.
Tighten ^
Tighten the control arm to crossmember bolts (front bushing) to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.) plus 180°
rotation.
^ Tighten the control arm crossmember bolts, (vertical bushing) to 170 Nm (125 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Suspension > Page 9874
19. Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS in WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Suspension > Page 9875
Cross-Member: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Support the rear axle assembly (1) with suitable jackstands. 3. Remove the both rear tires and
the wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL. 4. Disconnect the brake pipe at the brake pipe
brackets on the axle assembly. Refer to PIPE REPLACEMENT in HYDRAULIC BRAKES. This will
ensure that the axle assembly is not suspended by the brake pipes and the hoses. Plug the brake
pipe openings to prevent loss of brake fluid from master cylinder.
5. Remove the lower shock absorber mount bolt (4). 6. Lower the rear axle. 7. Disconnect the
parking brake at the equalizer unit. Refer to PARKING BRAKE. 8. Disconnect the rear ABS wiring
connector. 9. Remove the right brake lines and the left brake lines.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Suspension > Page 9876
10. Remove the axle assembly attaching bolts (1) with an assistant.
11. Remove the axle assembly (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Position the rear axle assembly (1) into place.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Suspension > Page 9877
2. Loosely install the attaching bolts (1).
Tighten Tighten the axle attaching bolts to 80 Nm (59 ft. lbs.), plus 120° at curb height.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
3. Install the right brake lines and the left brake lines. 4. Connect the ABS wiring connector. 5.
Connect the parking brake cable at the right rear wheel cable connector and the cable equalizer.
6. Install both springs (2) and insulators (1) while carefully raising the axle assembly and
positioning the axle assembly in order to install the lower
shock absorber mount stud and nut (5).
7. Lower the shock absorber mount nuts (5).
Tighten Tighten the shock absorber lower attaching nut to 47 Am (35 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the left and the right side brake line bracket mount bolts to the body.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
9. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to WHEEL INSTALLATION.
10. Lower the vehicle. 11. Fill and bleed the rear brake system. Refer to HYDRAULIC BRAKE
SYSTEM BLEEDING. 12. Adjust the parking brake. Refer to PARK BRAKE CABLE
SERVICE/ADJUSTMENT.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Arm Rest > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Arm Rest: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the front door trim panel. 2. Remove the rivets (3) which retain the front door armrest
hanger plate (1). 3. Remove the front door armrest hanger plate (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the front door armrest hanger plate (1). 2. Install the rivets (3) to the front door hanger
plate. 3. Install the front door trim panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-65-001 > Mar > 99 > Interior - Rear Footwell Wet
Carpet: Customer Interest Interior - Rear Footwell Wet
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-65-001
Date: March, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rear Footwell Wet (Insert Drain Path)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier Convertible Only 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire Convertible Only
Condition Some customers may comment that the rear floor is wet.
Cause When the vehicle is parked nose down on a steep incline, during a hard or prolonged rain,
water may accumulate in the front seat belt retractor area. This could result in flooding over the
poured-in-place foam and then into the passenger compartment.
Correction Add the drain path, using the following procedure:
1. Remove the RH and LH rear quarter trim panels.
2. Remove the RH and LH lower seat belt retractor bolts and set the retractor aside.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-65-001 > Mar > 99 > Interior - Rear Footwell Wet > Page 9890
3. See the figure for approximate locations for the 10 mm (3/8 in.) drain holes in the foam. Hole
location is critical.
4. Install a drill stop placed approximately 32 mm (1-1/4 in.) from the end of a 3/8 drill bit.
5. Install a drill bit in a 90° degree angle drill for better clearance and drill the holes on the marks,
as shown in the figure.
6. Vacuum up the foam and metal chips.
7. After drilling the holes, it is important that the appropriate anti-corrosion primer be applied. Refer
to GM Approved Refinish Materials Booklet (GM4901M-D-99) for additional information.
8. Repeat for the other side.
9. Reinstall the seat belt retractors.
10. Reinstall both quarter trim panels.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Labor
Operation Description Time
C9047 Install Drain Path 1.0 hr
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 10-08-110-001 > Mar > 10 > Interior - Proper Use of Floor
Mats
Carpet: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Proper Use of Floor Mats
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-110-001
Date: March 30, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Use of Floor Mats
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2009 HUMMER H2
2006-2010 HUMMER H3, H3T 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
GM's carpeted and all-weather (rubber) floor mats are especially designed for use in specific GM
vehicles. Using floor mats that were not designed for the specific vehicle or using them incorrectly
may cause interference with the accelerator or brake pedal. Please review the following safety
guidelines regarding proper driver's side floor mat usage with the customer.
Warning
If a floor mat is the wrong size or is not properly installed, it can interfere with the accelerator pedal
and/or brake pedal. Interference with the pedals can cause unintended acceleration and/or
increased stopping distance which can cause a crash and injury. Make sure the floor mat does not
interfere with the accelerator or brake pedal.
- Do not flip the driver's floor mat over (in an effort to keep the floor mat clean)
- Do not place anything on top of the driver's floor mat (e.g. carpet remnant, towel)
- Do not place another mat on top of the driver's floor mat (e.g. do not place all-weather rubber
mats over carpeted floor mats)
- Only use floor mats that are designed specifically for your vehicle
- When using replacement mats, make certain the mats do not interfere with the accelerator or
brake pedal before driving the vehicle
If your vehicle is equipped with a floor mat retaining pin(s) or clip(s), make certain the mat is
installed correctly and according to the instructions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 10-08-110-001 > Mar > 10 > Interior - Proper Use of Floor
Mats > Page 9896
After installing floor mats, make certain they cannot move and do not interfere with the accelerator
or brake pedals.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 00-00-89-027E > Sep > 08 > Interior - Elimination Of
Unwanted Odors
Carpet: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Elimination Of Unwanted Odors
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-027E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Eliminating Unwanted Odors in Vehicles
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years and refine the instructions. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-00-89-027D (Section 00 - General Information).
Vehicle Odor Elimination
General Motors offers a product that may control or eliminate odors in the interior and luggage
compartment areas of GM vehicles. GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator is a non-toxic,
biodegradable odor remover. This odorless product has been shown to greatly reduce or remove
objectionable smells of mold and mildew resulting from vehicle water leaks (as well as customer
created odors, i.e. smoke). You may use GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator on fabrics, vinyl,
leather, carpet and sound deadening materials. It may also be induced into HVAC modules and
instrument panel ducts (for the control of non-bacterial related odors).
Important:
This product leaves no residual scent and should not be sold as or considered an air freshener.
Product action may result in the permanent elimination of an odor and may be preferable to
customers with allergies who are sensitive to perfumes.
How to Use This Product
GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator may be sprayed on in a ready-to-use formula or used in steam
cleaners as an additive with carpet shampoo. This water-based, odorless product is safe for all
vehicle interiors. Do not wet or soak any interior surface that plain water would cause to
deteriorate, as this product will have the same effect. Also avoid letting this product come into
contact with vinegar or any acidic substance. Acid-based products will hamper the effectiveness of,
or render GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator inert.
Note:
Complete eight page treatment sheets are enclosed within each case of GM Vehicle Care Odor
Eliminator. These treatment instructions range from simple vehicle odor elimination to full step by
step procedures for odor removal from water leaks. If lost, contact 800-977-4145 to get a
replacement set faxed or e-mailed to your dealership.
Instructions and cautions are printed on the bottle, but additional help is available. If you encounter
a difficult to eliminate or reoccurring odor, you may call 1-800-955-8591 (in Canada,
1-800-977-4145) to obtain additional information and usage suggestions.
Important:
This product may effectively remove odors when directly contacting the odor source. It should be
used in conjunction with diagnostic procedures (in cases such as a water leak) to first eliminate the
root cause of the odor, and then the residual odor to permanently correct the vehicle condition.
Vehicle Waterleak Odor Elimination
STEP ONE:
Confirm that all water leaks have been repaired. Determine what areas of the vehicle were water
soaked or wet. Components with visible mold/mildew staining should be replaced. Isolate the odor
source inside the vehicle. Often an odor can be isolated to an area or component of the vehicle
interior by careful evaluation. Odor evaluation may need to be performed by multiple persons.
Another method of isolating an odor source is to remove and segregate interior trim and
components. Plastic sheeting or drop cloths can be used to confine seats, headliners, etc. to assist
in evaluation and diagnoses. If appropriate the vehicle and interior trim should be evaluated
separately to determine if the odor stays with the vehicle or the interior components. Odors that
stay with the vehicle may be isolated to insulating and sound deadening materials (i.e. water leak
at the windshield or standing water in the front foot well area caused mold/mildew to form on the
bulkhead or kick panel sound deadening pads. If the interior is removed the floor pan and
primed/painted surfaces should be treated with bleach/soap solution, rinsed with clean water and
dried. Interior surfaces should then be treated with GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator product
before reinstalling carpet or reassembling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 00-00-89-027E > Sep > 08 > Interior - Elimination Of
Unwanted Odors > Page 9901
The GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator product is an effective odor elimination product when used
properly. It must come into direct contact with the odor source. It should be used in conjunction with
diagnostic procedures to first eliminate the root cause of the odor. Some procedures for use after
odor root cause correction are:
STEP TWO:
^ Use the trigger spray head.
^ Put a drop of dish soap the size of a quarter in the bottom of a bottle.
^ Add 8 oz. of GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator (1 cup) to the dish soap and top off the bottle with
tap water.
^ This formula should be used on hard surfaces (dash, interior plastic molding, and floor pan)
STEP THREE:
The third step to neutralizing the vehicle is a light to medium treatment of all carpeting and
upholstered seats with the GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator formula and a wide fan spray setting
(at full strength) (i.e.: carpeting on the driver's side requires 4-5 triggers pulls for coverage). The
headliner and trunk should be sprayed next. Lightly brushing the formula into the carpeting and
upholstery is a recommended step for deep odor problems. The dash and all hard surfaces should
be sprayed with dish soap/water mixture. Let stand for 1-2 minutes then wipe off the surface.
STEP FOUR: (vehicle ventilation system treatment)
The ventilation system is generally the last step in the treatment of the vehicle.
a. Spray the GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator formula into all dash vents. (1-2 trigger pulls per
vent).
b. Start the vehicle and turn the vehicle fan on high cool (not A/C setting).
c. Spray the formula (10 trigger pulls) into the outside fresh air intake vent (cowl at base of
windshield)
d. Enter the vehicle after 1 minute and wipe off the excess formula spurting out of the dash vents.
e. Smell the air coming from the dash vents. If odors are still present, spray another 5 triggers into
the cowl, wait another minute and smell the results. Once you have obtained a fresh, clean smell
coming from the vents, turn the system to the A/C re-circulation setting. Roll up the windows, spray
3-5 pumps into the right lower IP area and let the vehicle run with the fan set on high for 5-7
minutes.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited
is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If
these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Additional Suggestions to Increase Customer Satisfaction
Here are some additional ideas to benefit your dealership and to generate greater customer
enthusiasm for this product.
^ Keep this product on-hand for both the Service Department and the Used Car lot. Add value to
your used car trades; treat loaner and demo cars during service and at final sale to eliminate
smoke, pet, and other common odors offensive to customers. Make deodorizing a vehicle part of
your normal vehicle detailing service.
^ Consider including GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator as a give-away item with new vehicle
purchases. Many dealers give away as "gifts" various cleaning supplies at time of delivery. GM
Odor Eliminator is one of a few products GM offers that has as many uses in the home as in the
vehicle. Customers may find this product can be used for a host of recreational activities
associated with their new vehicle, such as deodorizing a boat they tow, or a camper.
^ GM Odor Eliminator and many of the GM Vehicle Care products offer you the chance to increase
dealership traffic as these superior quality products cannot be purchased in stores. Many
Dealerships have product displays at the parts counter. Consider additional displays in the
Customer Service Lounge, the Showroom and at the Service Desk or Cashier Window. Many
customers who purchase vehicles and receive regular maintenance at your dealership may never
visit the parts counter, and subsequently are not exposed to the variety and value that these
products offer.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 00-00-89-027E > Sep > 08 > Interior - Elimination Of
Unwanted Odors > Page 9902
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 99-08-65-001 > Mar > 99 > Interior - Rear Footwell Wet
Carpet: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Rear Footwell Wet
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-65-001
Date: March, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rear Footwell Wet (Insert Drain Path)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier Convertible Only 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire Convertible Only
Condition Some customers may comment that the rear floor is wet.
Cause When the vehicle is parked nose down on a steep incline, during a hard or prolonged rain,
water may accumulate in the front seat belt retractor area. This could result in flooding over the
poured-in-place foam and then into the passenger compartment.
Correction Add the drain path, using the following procedure:
1. Remove the RH and LH rear quarter trim panels.
2. Remove the RH and LH lower seat belt retractor bolts and set the retractor aside.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 99-08-65-001 > Mar > 99 > Interior - Rear Footwell Wet >
Page 9907
3. See the figure for approximate locations for the 10 mm (3/8 in.) drain holes in the foam. Hole
location is critical.
4. Install a drill stop placed approximately 32 mm (1-1/4 in.) from the end of a 3/8 drill bit.
5. Install a drill bit in a 90° degree angle drill for better clearance and drill the holes on the marks,
as shown in the figure.
6. Vacuum up the foam and metal chips.
7. After drilling the holes, it is important that the appropriate anti-corrosion primer be applied. Refer
to GM Approved Refinish Materials Booklet (GM4901M-D-99) for additional information.
8. Repeat for the other side.
9. Reinstall the seat belt retractors.
10. Reinstall both quarter trim panels.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Labor
Operation Description Time
C9047 Install Drain Path 1.0 hr
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 10-08-110-001 > Mar > 10 > Interior - Proper Use of Floor Mats
Carpet: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Proper Use of Floor Mats
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-110-001
Date: March 30, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Use of Floor Mats
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2009 HUMMER H2
2006-2010 HUMMER H3, H3T 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
GM's carpeted and all-weather (rubber) floor mats are especially designed for use in specific GM
vehicles. Using floor mats that were not designed for the specific vehicle or using them incorrectly
may cause interference with the accelerator or brake pedal. Please review the following safety
guidelines regarding proper driver's side floor mat usage with the customer.
Warning
If a floor mat is the wrong size or is not properly installed, it can interfere with the accelerator pedal
and/or brake pedal. Interference with the pedals can cause unintended acceleration and/or
increased stopping distance which can cause a crash and injury. Make sure the floor mat does not
interfere with the accelerator or brake pedal.
- Do not flip the driver's floor mat over (in an effort to keep the floor mat clean)
- Do not place anything on top of the driver's floor mat (e.g. carpet remnant, towel)
- Do not place another mat on top of the driver's floor mat (e.g. do not place all-weather rubber
mats over carpeted floor mats)
- Only use floor mats that are designed specifically for your vehicle
- When using replacement mats, make certain the mats do not interfere with the accelerator or
brake pedal before driving the vehicle
If your vehicle is equipped with a floor mat retaining pin(s) or clip(s), make certain the mat is
installed correctly and according to the instructions.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 10-08-110-001 > Mar > 10 > Interior - Proper Use of Floor Mats
> Page 9913
After installing floor mats, make certain they cannot move and do not interfere with the accelerator
or brake pedals.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 00-00-89-027E > Sep > 08 > Interior - Elimination Of Unwanted
Odors
Carpet: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Elimination Of Unwanted Odors
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-027E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Eliminating Unwanted Odors in Vehicles
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years and refine the instructions. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-00-89-027D (Section 00 - General Information).
Vehicle Odor Elimination
General Motors offers a product that may control or eliminate odors in the interior and luggage
compartment areas of GM vehicles. GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator is a non-toxic,
biodegradable odor remover. This odorless product has been shown to greatly reduce or remove
objectionable smells of mold and mildew resulting from vehicle water leaks (as well as customer
created odors, i.e. smoke). You may use GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator on fabrics, vinyl,
leather, carpet and sound deadening materials. It may also be induced into HVAC modules and
instrument panel ducts (for the control of non-bacterial related odors).
Important:
This product leaves no residual scent and should not be sold as or considered an air freshener.
Product action may result in the permanent elimination of an odor and may be preferable to
customers with allergies who are sensitive to perfumes.
How to Use This Product
GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator may be sprayed on in a ready-to-use formula or used in steam
cleaners as an additive with carpet shampoo. This water-based, odorless product is safe for all
vehicle interiors. Do not wet or soak any interior surface that plain water would cause to
deteriorate, as this product will have the same effect. Also avoid letting this product come into
contact with vinegar or any acidic substance. Acid-based products will hamper the effectiveness of,
or render GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator inert.
Note:
Complete eight page treatment sheets are enclosed within each case of GM Vehicle Care Odor
Eliminator. These treatment instructions range from simple vehicle odor elimination to full step by
step procedures for odor removal from water leaks. If lost, contact 800-977-4145 to get a
replacement set faxed or e-mailed to your dealership.
Instructions and cautions are printed on the bottle, but additional help is available. If you encounter
a difficult to eliminate or reoccurring odor, you may call 1-800-955-8591 (in Canada,
1-800-977-4145) to obtain additional information and usage suggestions.
Important:
This product may effectively remove odors when directly contacting the odor source. It should be
used in conjunction with diagnostic procedures (in cases such as a water leak) to first eliminate the
root cause of the odor, and then the residual odor to permanently correct the vehicle condition.
Vehicle Waterleak Odor Elimination
STEP ONE:
Confirm that all water leaks have been repaired. Determine what areas of the vehicle were water
soaked or wet. Components with visible mold/mildew staining should be replaced. Isolate the odor
source inside the vehicle. Often an odor can be isolated to an area or component of the vehicle
interior by careful evaluation. Odor evaluation may need to be performed by multiple persons.
Another method of isolating an odor source is to remove and segregate interior trim and
components. Plastic sheeting or drop cloths can be used to confine seats, headliners, etc. to assist
in evaluation and diagnoses. If appropriate the vehicle and interior trim should be evaluated
separately to determine if the odor stays with the vehicle or the interior components. Odors that
stay with the vehicle may be isolated to insulating and sound deadening materials (i.e. water leak
at the windshield or standing water in the front foot well area caused mold/mildew to form on the
bulkhead or kick panel sound deadening pads. If the interior is removed the floor pan and
primed/painted surfaces should be treated with bleach/soap solution, rinsed with clean water and
dried. Interior surfaces should then be treated with GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator product
before reinstalling carpet or reassembling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 00-00-89-027E > Sep > 08 > Interior - Elimination Of Unwanted
Odors > Page 9918
The GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator product is an effective odor elimination product when used
properly. It must come into direct contact with the odor source. It should be used in conjunction with
diagnostic procedures to first eliminate the root cause of the odor. Some procedures for use after
odor root cause correction are:
STEP TWO:
^ Use the trigger spray head.
^ Put a drop of dish soap the size of a quarter in the bottom of a bottle.
^ Add 8 oz. of GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator (1 cup) to the dish soap and top off the bottle with
tap water.
^ This formula should be used on hard surfaces (dash, interior plastic molding, and floor pan)
STEP THREE:
The third step to neutralizing the vehicle is a light to medium treatment of all carpeting and
upholstered seats with the GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator formula and a wide fan spray setting
(at full strength) (i.e.: carpeting on the driver's side requires 4-5 triggers pulls for coverage). The
headliner and trunk should be sprayed next. Lightly brushing the formula into the carpeting and
upholstery is a recommended step for deep odor problems. The dash and all hard surfaces should
be sprayed with dish soap/water mixture. Let stand for 1-2 minutes then wipe off the surface.
STEP FOUR: (vehicle ventilation system treatment)
The ventilation system is generally the last step in the treatment of the vehicle.
a. Spray the GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator formula into all dash vents. (1-2 trigger pulls per
vent).
b. Start the vehicle and turn the vehicle fan on high cool (not A/C setting).
c. Spray the formula (10 trigger pulls) into the outside fresh air intake vent (cowl at base of
windshield)
d. Enter the vehicle after 1 minute and wipe off the excess formula spurting out of the dash vents.
e. Smell the air coming from the dash vents. If odors are still present, spray another 5 triggers into
the cowl, wait another minute and smell the results. Once you have obtained a fresh, clean smell
coming from the vents, turn the system to the A/C re-circulation setting. Roll up the windows, spray
3-5 pumps into the right lower IP area and let the vehicle run with the fan set on high for 5-7
minutes.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited
is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If
these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Additional Suggestions to Increase Customer Satisfaction
Here are some additional ideas to benefit your dealership and to generate greater customer
enthusiasm for this product.
^ Keep this product on-hand for both the Service Department and the Used Car lot. Add value to
your used car trades; treat loaner and demo cars during service and at final sale to eliminate
smoke, pet, and other common odors offensive to customers. Make deodorizing a vehicle part of
your normal vehicle detailing service.
^ Consider including GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator as a give-away item with new vehicle
purchases. Many dealers give away as "gifts" various cleaning supplies at time of delivery. GM
Odor Eliminator is one of a few products GM offers that has as many uses in the home as in the
vehicle. Customers may find this product can be used for a host of recreational activities
associated with their new vehicle, such as deodorizing a boat they tow, or a camper.
^ GM Odor Eliminator and many of the GM Vehicle Care products offer you the chance to increase
dealership traffic as these superior quality products cannot be purchased in stores. Many
Dealerships have product displays at the parts counter. Consider additional displays in the
Customer Service Lounge, the Showroom and at the Service Desk or Cashier Window. Many
customers who purchase vehicles and receive regular maintenance at your dealership may never
visit the parts counter, and subsequently are not exposed to the variety and value that these
products offer.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Carpet: > 00-00-89-027E > Sep > 08 > Interior - Elimination Of Unwanted
Odors > Page 9919
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Component Information >
Specifications
Console: Specifications
Console and Floor Pan to Console Bracket
....................................................................................................................................................6 N.m
(53 lb in) Module Assembly to Mounting Bracket Nuts
............................................................................................................................................12 N.m
(106 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Console Replacement
Console: Service and Repair Console Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Open the console compartment. 2. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement - Console in order to
remove one of the following components:
^ The console trim plate - automatic transmission
^ The boot - manual transmission
3. Remove the screw cover (7). 4. Remove the screws (6). 5. Remove the console (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the console (2).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the screws (6).
Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
3. Install the screw cover (7). 4. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement - Console in order to install one
of the following components: See: Trim Plate
^ The console trim plate - automatic transmission
^ The boot - manual transmission
5. Close the console compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Console Replacement > Page 9925
Console: Service and Repair Power Window Switch
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed tool in order to pry the power window switch outward. 2. Disconnect the power
window switch wire harness. 3. Remove the power window switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the power window switch wire harness. 2. Install the power window switch. Ensure the
unit is retained.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Console Replacement > Page 9926
Console: Service and Repair Trim Plate
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Gently pry upward on one of the following components in order to disengage the retainers:
^ For automatic transmission, the console trim plate (1).
^ For manual transmission, the shift lever boot (2).
2. Remove the gearshift handle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the gearshift handle. 2. Align the retainers. 3. Press one of the following components into
place:
^ For manual transmission, the shift lever boot (2).
^ For automatic transmission, the console trim plate (1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dash Board / Instrument Panel <-->
[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. 2. Turn the
ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Remove the key from the ignition switch. 4. Remove the left
IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
IMPORTANT: With the AIR BAG Fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, The
AIR BAG warning lamp illuminates. This is normal operation, and does not indicate an SIR system
malfunction.
Description
5. Remove the AIR BAG Fuse from the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console.
6. Remove the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 7. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the driver yellow 2-way
connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dash Board / Instrument Panel <-->
[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 9932
8. Disconnect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
9. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
10. Disconnect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering
column.
Enabling the SIR System
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Connect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dash Board / Instrument Panel <-->
[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 9933
3. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
4. Connect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
5. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the driver yellow 2-way connector located
near the base of the steering column. 6. Install the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dash Board / Instrument Panel <-->
[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 9934
Description
7. Install the AIR BAG fuse to the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 8. Install the left IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 9. Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
9.1. The AIR BAG warning lamp will flash seven times.
9.2. The AIR BAG warning lamp will then turn OFF.
10. Perform the SIR Diagnostic System Check if the AIR BAG warning lamp does not operate as
described.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dash Board / Instrument Panel <-->
[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 9935
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the SIR system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) maintains a reserve energy supply.
The reserve energy supply provides deployment power for the air bags. Deployment power is
available for as much as 10 minutes after disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following
methods:
^ You turn OFF the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the SDM.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR system prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply power.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Glove Compartment > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Instrument Panel Compartment Lamp Switch Replacement
Glove Compartment: Service and Repair Instrument Panel Compartment Lamp Switch
Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disable the SIR system. 3. Remove the instrument
panel cluster trim plate. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector. 5. Compress the retainers and pull
rearward on the switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the switch into the cluster trim plate. 2. Connect the electrical connectors. 3. Install the
instrument panel cluster trim plate. 4. Connect the negative battery cable. 5. Enable the SIR
system.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Glove Compartment > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Instrument Panel Compartment Lamp Switch Replacement > Page 9940
Glove Compartment: Service and Repair Instrument Panel Compartment Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disable the SIR system. 3. Unsnap the compartment
(1) from the instrument panel (2). 4. Remove the compartment (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Snap the compartment (1) into the instrument panel (2). Ensure that the unit is retained. 2.
Enable the SIR system. 3. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Trim Panel
Trim Panel: Service and Repair Door Trim Panel
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 38778 Door Trim Pad Remover
1. Remove the inside handle bezel from the front door. 2. Remove the power door lock switch. 3.
Remove the power window switch, if equipped.. 4. Remove the window regulator handle, if
equipped. 5. Remove the upper trim finish panel. 6. Remove the lower screws (3) from the front
door trim panel. 7. Remove the screws (2) from the front door arm rest. 8. Using the J 38778,
remove the front door trim panel fasteners from the front door inner panel (1). 9. Remove the front
door trim panel (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Push the front door trim panel (1) inward to engage the fasteners.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the arm rest screws (2).
Tighten Tighten the screws (2) to 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb in).
3. Install the lower screws (3) to the front door trim panel.
Tighten Tighten the screws (3) to 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb in).
4. Install the upper trim finish panel. 5. Install the window regulator handle, if equipped. 6. Install
the power window switch, if equipped. 7. Install the inside handle bezel. 8. Install the power door
lock switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Trim Panel > Page 9945
Trim Panel: Service and Repair Upper Extension
Standard
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the finish screw that retains the bezel to the front door upper trim.
2. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim.
3. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control power mirror bezel to the front door
upper trim. 4. Disconnect the power mirror switch. (Power windows only). 5. Remove the upper trim
finish panel from the front door.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Trim Panel > Page 9946
1. Install the bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
2. Install the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
3. Connect the power mirror switch to the front door upper trim finish panel. (Power window only).
4. Install the front door upper trim finish panel to the remote control power mirror bezel. (Power
window only).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
5. Install the screw to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Convertible
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Trim Panel > Page 9947
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the screw (5). 2. Remove the upper front panel (4). 3. Remove the mirror patch filler (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the mirror patch filler (3). 2. Install the upper front panel (4).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the screw (5).
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Key > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information
Key: Technical Service Bulletins Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-00-89-010
Date: May 27, 2010
Subject: Key Code Security Rules and Information on GM KeyCode Look-Up Application (Canada
Only)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior
Saturn and Saab 2002 and Prior Isuzu
Attention:
This bulletin has been created to address potential issues and questions regarding KeyCode
security. This bulletin should be read by all parties involved in KeyCode activity, including dealer
operator, partner security coordinator, sales, service and parts departments. A copy of this bulletin
should be printed and maintained in the parts department for use as a reference.
Important U.S. dealers should refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 10-00-89-009.
Where Are Key Codes Located?
General Motors provides access to KeyCodes through three sources when a vehicle is delivered to
a dealer. Vehicle KeyCodes are located on the original vehicle invoice to the dealership. There is a
small white bar coded tag sent with most new vehicles that also has the key code printed on it.
Dealerships should make a practice of comparing the tag's keycode numbers to the keycode listed
on the invoice. Any discrepancy should be reported immediately to the GM of Canada Key Code
Inquiry Desk. Remember to remove the key tag prior to showing vehicles to potential customers.
The third source for Key codes is through the GM KeyCode Look-Up feature within the
OEConnection D2DLink application. KeyCode Look-Up currently goes back 17 previous model
years from the current model year.
When a vehicle is received by the dealership, care should be taken to safeguard the original
vehicle invoice and KeyCode tag provided with the vehicle. Potential customers should not have
access to the invoice or this KeyCode tag prior to the sale being completed. After a sale has been
completed, the KeyCode information belongs to the customer and General Motors.
Tip
Only the original invoice contains key code information, a re-printed invoice does not.
GM KeyCode Look-Up Application for GM of Canada Dealers
All dealers should review the General Motors of Canada KeyCode Look-Up Policies and
Procedures (Service Policy & Procedures Manual Section 3.1.6 "Replacement of VIN plates &
keys").
Please note that the KeyCode Access site is restricted. Only authorized users should be using this
application. Please see your Parts Manager for site authorized users. KeyCode Look-Up currently
goes back 17 years from current model year.
Important notes about security:
- Users may not access the system from multiple computers simultaneously.
- Users may only request one KeyCode at a time.
- KeyCode information will only be available on the screen for 2 minutes.
- Each user is personally responsible for maintaining and protecting their password.
- Never share your password with others.
- User Id's are suspended after 6 consecutive failed attempts.
- User Id's are disabled if not used for 90 days.
- Processes must be in place for regular dealership reviews.
- The Parts Manager (or assigned management) must have processes in place for employee
termination or life change events. Upon termination individuals access must be turned off
immediately and access should be re-evaluated upon any position changes within the dealership.
- If you think your password or ID security has been breached, contact Dealer Systems Support at
1-800-265-0573.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Key > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 9956
Each user will be required to accept the following agreement each time the KeyCode application is
used.
Key Code User Agreement
- Key codes are proprietary information belonging to General Motors Corporation and to the vehicle
owner.
- Unauthorized access to, or use of, key code information is unlawful and may subject the user to
criminal and civil penalties.
- This information should be treated as strictly confidential and should not be disclosed to anyone
unless authorized.
I will ensure that the following information is obtained prior to releasing any Key Code information:
1. Government issued picture ID (Drivers License) 2. Registration or other proof of ownership.
Registration should have normal markings from the Province that issued the registration and
possibly the
receipt for payment recorded as well.
Important
- GM takes this agreement seriously. Each user must be certain of vehicle ownership before giving
out key codes.
- When the ownership of the vehicle is in doubt, dealership personnel should not provide the
information.
Key code requests should never be received via a fax or the internet and key codes should never
be provided to anyone in this manner. A face to face contact with the owner of the vehicle is the
expected manner that dealers will use to release a key code or as otherwise stipulated in this
bulletin or other materials.
- Key codes should NEVER be sent via a fax or the internet.
- Each Dealership should create a permanent file to document all KeyCode Look Up transactions.
Requests should be filed by VIN and in each folder retain copies of the following:
- Government issued picture ID (Drivers License)
- Registration or other proof of ownership.
- Copy of the paid customer receipt which has the name of the employee who cut and sold the key
to the customer.
- Do not put yourself or your Dealership in the position of needing to "explain" a KeyCode Look Up
to either GM or law enforcement officials.
- Dealership Management has the ability to review all KeyCode Look-Up transactions.
- Dealership KeyCode documentation must be retained for two years.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) for GM of Canada Dealers
How do I request a KeyCode for customer owned vehicle that is not registered?
Scrapped, salvaged or stored vehicles that do not have a current registration should still have the
ownership verified by requesting the vehicle title, current insurance policy and / or current lien
holder information from the customers financing source. If you cannot determine if the customer is
the owner of the vehicle, do not provide the key code information. In these cases, a short
description of the vehicle (scrapped, salvaged, etc.) and the dealership location should be kept on
file. Any clarifying explanation should be entered into the comments field.
How do I document a KeyCode request for a vehicle that is being repossessed?
The repossessor must document ownership of the vehicle by providing a court ordered
repossession order and lien-holder documents prior to providing key code information. Copies of
the repossessors Drivers License and a business card should be retained by the dealership for
documentation.
What do I do if the registration information is locked in the vehicle?
Every effort should be made to obtain complete information for each request. Each Dealership will
have to decide on a case by case basis if enough information is available to verify the customer's
ownership of the vehicle. Other forms of documentation include vehicle title, insurance policy, and
or current lien information from the customers financing source. Dealership Management must be
involved in any request without complete information. If you cannot determine if the customer is the
owner of the vehicle, do not provide the key code information.
Can I get a print out of the information on the screen?
It is important to note that the Key Code Look Up Search Results contain sensitive and/or
proprietary information. For this reason GM recommends against printing it. If the Search Results
must be printed, store and/or dispose of the printed copy properly to minimize the risk of improper
or illegal use.
Who in the dealership has access to the KeyCode application?
Dealership Parts Manager (or assigned management) will determine, and control, who is
authorized to access the KeyCode Look Up application. However, we anticipate that dealership
parts and service management will be the primary users of the application. The KeyCode Look Up
application automatically tracks each user activity session. Information tracked by the system
includes: User name, User ID, all other entered data and the date/time of access.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Key > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 9957
What if I input the VIN incorrectly?
If an incorrect VIN is entered into the system (meaning that the system does not recognize the VIN
or that the VIN has been entered incorrectly) the system will return an error message.
If I am an authorized user for the KeyCode application, can I access the application from home?
Yes.
What if I suspect key code misuse?
Your dealership should communicate the proper procedures for requesting key codes. Any
suspicious activity either within the dealership or externally should be reported to Dealer Systems
Support at 1-800-265-0573 or GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
Whose key codes can I access through the system?
At this time the following Canadian vehicle codes are available through the system: Chevrolet,
Cadillac, Buick, Pontiac, GMC, HUMMER (H2 and H3 only), Oldsmobile, Saturn, Saab and Isuzu
(up to 2002 model year) for a maximum of 17 model years.
What should I do if I enter a valid VIN and the system does not produce any key code information?
Occasionally, the KeyCode Look Up application may not produce a key code for a valid VIN. This
may be the result of new vehicle information not yet available. In addition, older vehicle information
may have been sent to an archive status. If you do not receive a key code returned for valid VIN,
you should contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
How do I access KeyCodes if the KeyCode Look-up system is down?
If the KeyCode Look-up system is temporarily unavailable, you can contact the original selling
dealer who may have it on file or contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at
1-905-644-4892. If the customer is dealing with an emergency lock-out situation, you need to have
the customer contact Roadside assistance, OnStar if subscribed, or 911.
What should I do if the KeyCode from the look-up system does not work on the vehicle?
On occasion a dealer may encounter a KeyCode that will not work on the vehicle in question. In
cases where the KeyCode won't work you will need to verify with the manufacturer of the cutting
equipment that the key has been cut correctly. If the key has been cut correctly you may be able to
verify the proper KeyCode was given through the original selling dealer. When unable to verify the
KeyCode through the original selling dealer contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at
1-905-644-4892. If the key has been cut correctly and the code given does not work, the lock
cylinder may have been changed. In these situations following the proper SI document for recoding
a key or replacing the lock cylinder may be necessary.
How long do I have to keep KeyCode Records?
Dealership KeyCode documentation must be retained for two years.
Can I get a KeyCode changed in the Look-Up system?
Yes, KeyCodes can be changed in the Look-Up system if a lock cylinder has been changed.
Contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
What information do I need before I can provide a driver of a company fleet vehicle Keys or
KeyCode information?
The dealership should have a copy of the individual's driver's license, proof of employment and
registration. If there is any question as to the customer's employment by the fleet company, the
dealer should attempt to contact the fleet company for verification. If there is not enough
information to determine ownership and employment, this information should not be provided.
How do I document a request from an Independent Repair facility for a KeyCode or Key?
The independent must provide a copy of their driver's license, proof of employment and signed
copy of the repair order for that repair facility. The repair order must include customer's name,
address, VIN, city, province and license plate number. Copies of this information must be included
in your dealer KeyCode file.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Key > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 9958
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Module > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Keyless Entry Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open the rear compartment. 3. Remove the left inner
trim panel. 4. Disconnect one of the electrical connectors (3 or 4). 5. Remove the push pins. 6.
Remove the remote control door lock receiver (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the remote control door lock receiver (1) to the rear compartment brace. 2. Install the push
pins to the brace. 3. Connect the electrical connector (3 or 4). 4. Install the rear compartment trim.
5. Close the rear compartment. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Reprogram the new
receiver to the transmitter(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Programming Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams
Program Connector
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Receiver > Component
Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Receiver > Component
Information > Locations > Page 9969
Remote Control Door Lock Receiver
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Keyless Entry
Transmitter Battery > Component Information > Service and Repair
Keyless Entry Transmitter Battery: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE Perform the following steps in order to open the transmitter case:
1. Insert a dime between the 2 halves of the transmitter case at the slot provided near the key ring
(5) hole. 2. Twist the dime in order to open the case (6,4). 3. Remove the battery (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the battery (2) with the positive (+) side facing down.
Use one 3-volt CR2032 battery or the equivalent.
2. Ensure the transmitter case seal is in the proper position. 3. Align the 2 halves of the transmitter
case (6,4). 4. Snap the 2 halves of the transmitter case together.
IMPORTANT: Normal battery life is approximately 2 years. Replace the batteries when the range of
the transmitter begins to decrease significantly to less than approximately 7 m (23 ft).
5. Test the operation of the transmitter.
If the transmitter does not function properly, resynchronization may be necessary. Refer to
Transmitter Synchronization. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Locations > Left Front
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Locations > Left Front > Page 9979
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Actuator
LF Door Lock Motor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Actuator > Page 9982
RF Door Lock Motor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Actuator > Page 9983
LR Door Lock Motor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Actuator > Page 9984
RR Door Lock Motor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Page 9988
Door Lock Relay
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Switch > Component
Information > Specifications
Power Door Lock Switch: Specifications
At the left front luggage compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Switch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9992
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Switch > Component
Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch
Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams Left Front Door Lock Switch
LF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Switch > Component
Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch > Page 9995
LF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Switch > Component
Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch > Page 9996
RF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Switch > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 9997
Power Door Lock Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver in order to pry the power door lock switch. 2. Disconnect the wire
harness (8) from the power door lock switch (9). 3. Remove the power door lock switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the wire harness (8) to the power door lock switch. 2. Install the power door lock switch.
Ensure the unit is retained.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Mirrors - Heated Mirrors, Defrosting Time
Heated Element: Technical Service Bulletins Mirrors - Heated Mirrors, Defrosting Time
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-64-011A
Date: February 25, 2010
Subject: Information on Heated Electrochromatic Outside Rearview Mirror Performance
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 08-08-64-011 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Defrosting Time/Performance Concern
The electrochromatic (auto-dimming) outside rearview mirror used on the driver's side of many GM
vehicles is slower to defrost than the passenger side outside rearview mirror.
This is a normal condition. The glass on the driver's side electrochromatic mirror is twice as thick as
the traditional glass on the passenger side mirror. The heating elements for the mirrors on both
sides draw the same wattage, therefore the driver's side mirror will take approximately twice as
long to defrost as the passenger mirror (approximately four minutes versus two minutes). Should a
customer indicate that the driver's side heated mirror is not functioning correctly, verify it's function
based upon this information prior to replacing the mirror.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Mirror Adjustment Handle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Mirror Adjustment Handle: > 99-08-64-015 > Sep > 99 > Manual Door
Mirror (L/H) - Does Not Adjust With Lever
Mirror Adjustment Handle: Customer Interest Manual Door Mirror (L/H) - Does Not Adjust With
Lever
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-64-015
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Left Hand Manual Mirror Does Not Adjust When Adjustment Lever is Moved (Adjust Lever
to Align with Lever Slide)
Models: 1995-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with Manual Mirrors
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
73-15-02 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the left hand manual mirror does not adjust when the adjustment
lever is moved.
Cause
The adjustment lever may have become disengaged from the lever slide.
Correction
Caution:
To avoid personal injury, do not place fingers in mirror hinge area.
1. Roll down the left door window.
2. Fold the mirror toward the front of the vehicle. Hold the mirror in position with your left hand.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Mirror Adjustment Handle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Mirror Adjustment Handle: > 99-08-64-015 > Sep > 99 > Manual Door
Mirror (L/H) - Does Not Adjust With Lever > Page 10011
3. With your right hand, move the adjustment lever handle (inside the vehicle) to align the T end of
the lever with the lever slide.
4. Fold the mirror back to the original position to engage the T end of the lever with the lever slide.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
R3261 Mirror, Outside Rear View - Use published labor
Replace (Manual Left) operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Mirror Adjustment Handle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Mirror Adjustment Handle: > 99-08-64-015 > Sep > 99 >
Manual Door Mirror (L/H) - Does Not Adjust With Lever
Mirror Adjustment Handle: All Technical Service Bulletins Manual Door Mirror (L/H) - Does Not
Adjust With Lever
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-64-015
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Left Hand Manual Mirror Does Not Adjust When Adjustment Lever is Moved (Adjust Lever
to Align with Lever Slide)
Models: 1995-2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-2000 Pontiac Sunfire with Manual Mirrors
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
73-15-02 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the left hand manual mirror does not adjust when the adjustment
lever is moved.
Cause
The adjustment lever may have become disengaged from the lever slide.
Correction
Caution:
To avoid personal injury, do not place fingers in mirror hinge area.
1. Roll down the left door window.
2. Fold the mirror toward the front of the vehicle. Hold the mirror in position with your left hand.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Mirror Adjustment Handle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Mirror Adjustment Handle: > 99-08-64-015 > Sep > 99 >
Manual Door Mirror (L/H) - Does Not Adjust With Lever > Page 10017
3. With your right hand, move the adjustment lever handle (inside the vehicle) to align the T end of
the lever with the lever slide.
4. Fold the mirror back to the original position to engage the T end of the lever with the lever slide.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
R3261 Mirror, Outside Rear View - Use published labor
Replace (Manual Left) operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Power Mirror Motor > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Power Mirror Switch > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Power Mirror Switch > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations > Page 10025
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-08-51-008C > Jun > 09 > Body - Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint
Paint: Customer Interest Body - Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-08-51-008C
Date: June 22, 2009
Subject: Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint Due to Rail or Iron Dust (Remove Rail Dust)
Models:
1994-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2010 HUMMER H2
2006-2010 HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-08-51-008B (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Condition
Visible rust colored spots or bumps on a vehicle's paint surface from rail or iron dust.
Cause
Rail dust comes from tiny iron particles produced from the friction between train wheels and the
tracks and gets deposited on the vehicle surfaces. Iron dust can get deposited on the surface if the
vehicle is stored near any operation producing iron dust such as an iron ore yard. Either material
can lay on top of, or become embedded in, the paint surface.
Correction
Because the severity of the condition varies, proper diagnosis of the damage is critical to the
success of repairs. Diagnosis should be performed on horizontal surfaces (hood, roof, deck lid, pick
up box, etc.) after the vehicle has been properly cleaned. There are two types of repair materials
recommended to repair rail dust or iron dust:
1. GEL TYPE OXALIC ACID:
- Has the characteristics of the liquid type oxalic acid but stays where you put it because of its gel
consistency.
2. CLAY TYPE NON-ACID BASED:
- Requires surface lubricant during use. - Has different grades available.
Caution
Rail dust remover (Oxalic Acid) is an acidic substance containing chemicals that will break down
the iron particles embedded in the finish. When working with rail dust remover, use the necessary
safety equipment, including gloves and goggles. Follow the chemical manufacturer's directions
closely because it may require special handling and disposal.
If, upon inspection, some particles are still present, the various chemical manufacturer's processes
can be repeated.
After the removal process, small pits may remain in the clearcoat and can be corrected, in most
cases, with a finesse/polish operation.
Procedure
1. Move the vehicle to a cool shaded area and make sure that the vehicle surfaces are cool during
the removal process. DO NOT PERFORM THE
REMOVAL PROCESS IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT OR ON A VEHICLE WITH HOT OR WARM BODY
PANELS.
2. Wash the vehicle with soap and water. Dry it immediately and clean the affected areas with a
wax and grease remover. 3. Perform the removal process according to the chemical
manufacturer's directions.
Once the damage has been repaired, the final step involves a polishing process.
Rail Dust Remover Manufacturers
Use the chemical manufacturers listed below, or equivalent:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-08-51-008C > Jun > 09 > Body - Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint > Page
10035
Auto Magic(R) or Clay Magic(R) products available from:
Auto Wax Company, Inc. 1275 Round Table Dr. Dallas, TX 75247 (800) 826-0828 (Toll-Free) or
(214) 631-4000 (Local) Fax (214) 634-1342 www.automagic.com
[email protected]
E038 Fallout Gel or E038E Liquid Fallout Remover II available from:
Valvoline Car Brite Company 1910 South State Avenue Indianapolis, In 46203 (800) 347-2439 (Toll
Free) or (317) 788-9925 (Local) Fax (317) 788-9930 www.carbrite.com
[email protected] *We
believe these sources and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from these firms or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
If rail dust remover is not available in your area, call one of the numbers listed above for a
distributor near your location.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important Refer to the Policy & Procedures Manual, section 1.2.1.7 for detailed information
regarding warranty coverage for this condition.
Important In certain cases where the vehicle finish is severely damaged and the actual repair time
exceeds the published time, the additional time should be submitted in the "Other Labor Hours"
field.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler
Paint: Customer Interest Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 33-17-01A
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Paint Peeling from Muffler (New Repair Paint Available)
Models: 1993-98 Passenger Cars with Painted Mufflers
This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 33-17-01 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may experience paint peeling from the muffler.
Correction
Clean and repaint the affected area using the following procedure and product.
Important:
DO NOT REPLACE COMPONENTS TO REPAIR THIS CONDITION.
The exhaust system must be cold to begin this procedure.
Material Required: * Wabash Products # KB-318-HHHS, available in pints or quarts as ready to
spray material (no mixing required). Call Wabash Products, 1-800-326-7269 or 812-232-6097 for
pricing and shipping information.
Procedure
On a cold exhaust system:
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. While supporting exhaust with a transmission jack, remove the rear exhaust system hangers and
lower the exhaust.
3. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
4. Wire brush the affected area to remove flaking paint and blow off with air.
5. Sand the affected area with # 80 to 150 grit sandpaper to remove rust, dirt or other
contaminants.
6. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
7. Tape off the rear lower body panels and exhaust pipes forward of mufflers to protect from
overspray.
8. Apply paint to affected area in several (6 to 8) thin coats (to prevent sags and runs) obtaining
approximately 1 mil paint coverage.
9. Raise exhaust system with jack, reinstall exhaust hangers, lower vehicle and remove from hoist.
^ Allow 30 minutes drying time.
10. In a well ventilated area, start engine and allow to idle for up to 30 minutes until paint is cured
and dry.
Important:
Some "smoking" will occur while curing the paint with the engine running.
The paint can be heated and cured while driving, but be careful not to get the exhaust system wet
during the first 30 minutes.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler >
Page 10040
Labor Material
Operation Labor Time Allowance
A6150 0.6 hr - Single Exhaust GC
Add 0.2 hr - Dual Exhaust GC
Important:
While the above procedure and materials are correct for vehicles from 1993 to 1998, the Labor
Operation and Time Allowance only pertains to vehicles in the Warranty period.
* We believe this source and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 05-08-51-008C > Jun > 09 > Body - Bumps or Rust Colored
Spots in Paint
Paint: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-08-51-008C
Date: June 22, 2009
Subject: Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint Due to Rail or Iron Dust (Remove Rail Dust)
Models:
1994-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2010 HUMMER H2
2006-2010 HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-08-51-008B (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Condition
Visible rust colored spots or bumps on a vehicle's paint surface from rail or iron dust.
Cause
Rail dust comes from tiny iron particles produced from the friction between train wheels and the
tracks and gets deposited on the vehicle surfaces. Iron dust can get deposited on the surface if the
vehicle is stored near any operation producing iron dust such as an iron ore yard. Either material
can lay on top of, or become embedded in, the paint surface.
Correction
Because the severity of the condition varies, proper diagnosis of the damage is critical to the
success of repairs. Diagnosis should be performed on horizontal surfaces (hood, roof, deck lid, pick
up box, etc.) after the vehicle has been properly cleaned. There are two types of repair materials
recommended to repair rail dust or iron dust:
1. GEL TYPE OXALIC ACID:
- Has the characteristics of the liquid type oxalic acid but stays where you put it because of its gel
consistency.
2. CLAY TYPE NON-ACID BASED:
- Requires surface lubricant during use. - Has different grades available.
Caution
Rail dust remover (Oxalic Acid) is an acidic substance containing chemicals that will break down
the iron particles embedded in the finish. When working with rail dust remover, use the necessary
safety equipment, including gloves and goggles. Follow the chemical manufacturer's directions
closely because it may require special handling and disposal.
If, upon inspection, some particles are still present, the various chemical manufacturer's processes
can be repeated.
After the removal process, small pits may remain in the clearcoat and can be corrected, in most
cases, with a finesse/polish operation.
Procedure
1. Move the vehicle to a cool shaded area and make sure that the vehicle surfaces are cool during
the removal process. DO NOT PERFORM THE
REMOVAL PROCESS IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT OR ON A VEHICLE WITH HOT OR WARM BODY
PANELS.
2. Wash the vehicle with soap and water. Dry it immediately and clean the affected areas with a
wax and grease remover. 3. Perform the removal process according to the chemical
manufacturer's directions.
Once the damage has been repaired, the final step involves a polishing process.
Rail Dust Remover Manufacturers
Use the chemical manufacturers listed below, or equivalent:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 05-08-51-008C > Jun > 09 > Body - Bumps or Rust Colored
Spots in Paint > Page 10046
Auto Magic(R) or Clay Magic(R) products available from:
Auto Wax Company, Inc. 1275 Round Table Dr. Dallas, TX 75247 (800) 826-0828 (Toll-Free) or
(214) 631-4000 (Local) Fax (214) 634-1342 www.automagic.com
[email protected]
E038 Fallout Gel or E038E Liquid Fallout Remover II available from:
Valvoline Car Brite Company 1910 South State Avenue Indianapolis, In 46203 (800) 347-2439 (Toll
Free) or (317) 788-9925 (Local) Fax (317) 788-9930 www.carbrite.com
[email protected] *We
believe these sources and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from these firms or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
If rail dust remover is not available in your area, call one of the numbers listed above for a
distributor near your location.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important Refer to the Policy & Procedures Manual, section 1.2.1.7 for detailed information
regarding warranty coverage for this condition.
Important In certain cases where the vehicle finish is severely damaged and the actual repair time
exceeds the published time, the additional time should be submitted in the "Other Labor Hours"
field.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 08-08-51-002 > Mar > 08 > Body - TPO Fascia Cleaning Prior
to Painting
Paint: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - TPO Fascia Cleaning Prior to Painting
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-51-002
Date: March 12, 2008
Subject: New Primer For TPO Fascias and Affected Cleaning Process of Painting Operation
Models: 2009 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
The purpose of this bulletin is to inform the technician that General Motors has made a change in
the primer it uses for TPO plastic for service parts. This new primer comes in several different
colors from five different suppliers. This change affects the cleaning process of the painting
operation. The new process is as follows.
1. Wash with soap and water.
2. Clean with a 50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water (or a waterborne cleaner). Check with your
paint supplier for product recommendations.
3. Scuff sand per your paint suppliers recommendations.
Note:
The use of a solvent-type cleaner will soften, or begin to dissolve the primer. Base coats do not
have any affect on this primer.
4. Reclean with a 50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water (or a waterborne cleaner).
All fascias, with the exception of the Corvette, Camaro, and Cadillac XLR, are made of TPO. You
may find other TPO parts with this primer. If the technician has a question as to the type of plastic
they are painting, inspect the back of the part for the plastic symbol (TPO).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from
Painted Muffler
Paint: All Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 33-17-01A
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Paint Peeling from Muffler (New Repair Paint Available)
Models: 1993-98 Passenger Cars with Painted Mufflers
This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 33-17-01 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may experience paint peeling from the muffler.
Correction
Clean and repaint the affected area using the following procedure and product.
Important:
DO NOT REPLACE COMPONENTS TO REPAIR THIS CONDITION.
The exhaust system must be cold to begin this procedure.
Material Required: * Wabash Products # KB-318-HHHS, available in pints or quarts as ready to
spray material (no mixing required). Call Wabash Products, 1-800-326-7269 or 812-232-6097 for
pricing and shipping information.
Procedure
On a cold exhaust system:
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. While supporting exhaust with a transmission jack, remove the rear exhaust system hangers and
lower the exhaust.
3. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
4. Wire brush the affected area to remove flaking paint and blow off with air.
5. Sand the affected area with # 80 to 150 grit sandpaper to remove rust, dirt or other
contaminants.
6. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
7. Tape off the rear lower body panels and exhaust pipes forward of mufflers to protect from
overspray.
8. Apply paint to affected area in several (6 to 8) thin coats (to prevent sags and runs) obtaining
approximately 1 mil paint coverage.
9. Raise exhaust system with jack, reinstall exhaust hangers, lower vehicle and remove from hoist.
^ Allow 30 minutes drying time.
10. In a well ventilated area, start engine and allow to idle for up to 30 minutes until paint is cured
and dry.
Important:
Some "smoking" will occur while curing the paint with the engine running.
The paint can be heated and cured while driving, but be careful not to get the exhaust system wet
during the first 30 minutes.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from
Painted Muffler > Page 10055
Labor Material
Operation Labor Time Allowance
A6150 0.6 hr - Single Exhaust GC
Add 0.2 hr - Dual Exhaust GC
Important:
While the above procedure and materials are correct for vehicles from 1993 to 1998, the Labor
Operation and Time Allowance only pertains to vehicles in the Warranty period.
* We believe this source and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 72-05-11 > Dec > 97 > Warranty - Rail Dust Removal &
Chemical Spotting Labor
Paint: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Rail Dust Removal & Chemical Spotting Labor
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-11
Date: December, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Clarification of Rail Dust Removal (A5575-A5580) and Chemical Spotting (A5541-A5544)
Labor Operations
Models: All Past and Future Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this Warranty Administration Bulletin is to clarify the usage, limits and guidelines for
the proper use of the above subject labor operations.
The above subject labor operations were introduced to correct paint imperfections caused by fallout
that occurred either during shipment to the dealer or within the first 12 months or 12,000 miles
(20,000 kms) of vehicle ownership. GM vehicle owners are informed that although no defect in the
factory applied paint causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new
vehicles damaged by fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20,000 kms) whichever
occurs first. Effective with repair orders dated on or after December 1, 1997, labor operations
A5575-A5580 Rail Dust Removal and A5541 through A5544 Chemical Spotting will be limited to
within the first 12 months or 12,000 miles of the Base Vehicle Warranty (20,000 kms) whichever
occurs first.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > 08-08-51-002 > Mar > 08 > Body - TPO Fascia Cleaning Prior to
Painting
Paint: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - TPO Fascia Cleaning Prior to Painting
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-51-002
Date: March 12, 2008
Subject: New Primer For TPO Fascias and Affected Cleaning Process of Painting Operation
Models: 2009 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
The purpose of this bulletin is to inform the technician that General Motors has made a change in
the primer it uses for TPO plastic for service parts. This new primer comes in several different
colors from five different suppliers. This change affects the cleaning process of the painting
operation. The new process is as follows.
1. Wash with soap and water.
2. Clean with a 50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water (or a waterborne cleaner). Check with your
paint supplier for product recommendations.
3. Scuff sand per your paint suppliers recommendations.
Note:
The use of a solvent-type cleaner will soften, or begin to dissolve the primer. Base coats do not
have any affect on this primer.
4. Reclean with a 50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water (or a waterborne cleaner).
All fascias, with the exception of the Corvette, Camaro, and Cadillac XLR, are made of TPO. You
may find other TPO parts with this primer. If the technician has a question as to the type of plastic
they are painting, inspect the back of the part for the plastic symbol (TPO).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > 72-05-11 > Dec > 97 > Warranty - Rail Dust Removal & Chemical
Spotting Labor
Paint: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Rail Dust Removal & Chemical Spotting Labor
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-11
Date: December, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Clarification of Rail Dust Removal (A5575-A5580) and Chemical Spotting (A5541-A5544)
Labor Operations
Models: All Past and Future Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this Warranty Administration Bulletin is to clarify the usage, limits and guidelines for
the proper use of the above subject labor operations.
The above subject labor operations were introduced to correct paint imperfections caused by fallout
that occurred either during shipment to the dealer or within the first 12 months or 12,000 miles
(20,000 kms) of vehicle ownership. GM vehicle owners are informed that although no defect in the
factory applied paint causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new
vehicles damaged by fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20,000 kms) whichever
occurs first. Effective with repair orders dated on or after December 1, 1997, labor operations
A5575-A5580 Rail Dust Removal and A5541 through A5544 Chemical Spotting will be limited to
within the first 12 months or 12,000 miles of the Base Vehicle Warranty (20,000 kms) whichever
occurs first.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > Page 10069
Paint: By Symptom
Technical Service Bulletin # 05-08-51-008C Date: 090622
Body - Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-08-51-008C
Date: June 22, 2009
Subject: Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint Due to Rail or Iron Dust (Remove Rail Dust)
Models:
1994-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2010 HUMMER H2
2006-2010 HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-08-51-008B (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Condition
Visible rust colored spots or bumps on a vehicle's paint surface from rail or iron dust.
Cause
Rail dust comes from tiny iron particles produced from the friction between train wheels and the
tracks and gets deposited on the vehicle surfaces. Iron dust can get deposited on the surface if the
vehicle is stored near any operation producing iron dust such as an iron ore yard. Either material
can lay on top of, or become embedded in, the paint surface.
Correction
Because the severity of the condition varies, proper diagnosis of the damage is critical to the
success of repairs. Diagnosis should be performed on horizontal surfaces (hood, roof, deck lid, pick
up box, etc.) after the vehicle has been properly cleaned. There are two types of repair materials
recommended to repair rail dust or iron dust:
1. GEL TYPE OXALIC ACID:
- Has the characteristics of the liquid type oxalic acid but stays where you put it because of its gel
consistency.
2. CLAY TYPE NON-ACID BASED:
- Requires surface lubricant during use. - Has different grades available.
Caution
Rail dust remover (Oxalic Acid) is an acidic substance containing chemicals that will break down
the iron particles embedded in the finish. When working with rail dust remover, use the necessary
safety equipment, including gloves and goggles. Follow the chemical manufacturer's directions
closely because it may require special handling and disposal.
If, upon inspection, some particles are still present, the various chemical manufacturer's processes
can be repeated.
After the removal process, small pits may remain in the clearcoat and can be corrected, in most
cases, with a finesse/polish operation.
Procedure
1. Move the vehicle to a cool shaded area and make sure that the vehicle surfaces are cool during
the removal process. DO NOT PERFORM THE
REMOVAL PROCESS IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT OR ON A VEHICLE WITH HOT OR WARM BODY
PANELS.
2. Wash the vehicle with soap and water. Dry it immediately and clean the affected areas with a
wax and grease remover. 3. Perform the removal process according to the chemical
manufacturer's directions.
Once the damage has been repaired, the final step involves a polishing process.
Rail Dust Remover Manufacturers
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > Page 10070
Use the chemical manufacturers listed below, or equivalent:
Auto Magic(R) or Clay Magic(R) products available from:
Auto Wax Company, Inc. 1275 Round Table Dr. Dallas, TX 75247 (800) 826-0828 (Toll-Free) or
(214) 631-4000 (Local) Fax (214) 634-1342 www.automagic.com
[email protected]
E038 Fallout Gel or E038E Liquid Fallout Remover II available from:
Valvoline Car Brite Company 1910 South State Avenue Indianapolis, In 46203 (800) 347-2439 (Toll
Free) or (317) 788-9925 (Local) Fax (317) 788-9930 www.carbrite.com
[email protected] *We
believe these sources and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from these firms or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
If rail dust remover is not available in your area, call one of the numbers listed above for a
distributor near your location.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important Refer to the Policy & Procedures Manual, section 1.2.1.7 for detailed information
regarding warranty coverage for this condition.
Important In certain cases where the vehicle finish is severely damaged and the actual repair time
exceeds the published time, the additional time should be submitted in the "Other Labor Hours"
field.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
Disclaimer
Technical Service Bulletin # 33-17-01A Date: 971201
Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > Page 10071
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 33-17-01A
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Paint Peeling from Muffler (New Repair Paint Available)
Models: 1993-98 Passenger Cars with Painted Mufflers
This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 33-17-01 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may experience paint peeling from the muffler.
Correction
Clean and repaint the affected area using the following procedure and product.
Important:
DO NOT REPLACE COMPONENTS TO REPAIR THIS CONDITION.
The exhaust system must be cold to begin this procedure.
Material Required: * Wabash Products # KB-318-HHHS, available in pints or quarts as ready to
spray material (no mixing required). Call Wabash Products, 1-800-326-7269 or 812-232-6097 for
pricing and shipping information.
Procedure
On a cold exhaust system:
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. While supporting exhaust with a transmission jack, remove the rear exhaust system hangers and
lower the exhaust.
3. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
4. Wire brush the affected area to remove flaking paint and blow off with air.
5. Sand the affected area with # 80 to 150 grit sandpaper to remove rust, dirt or other
contaminants.
6. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
7. Tape off the rear lower body panels and exhaust pipes forward of mufflers to protect from
overspray.
8. Apply paint to affected area in several (6 to 8) thin coats (to prevent sags and runs) obtaining
approximately 1 mil paint coverage.
9. Raise exhaust system with jack, reinstall exhaust hangers, lower vehicle and remove from hoist.
^ Allow 30 minutes drying time.
10. In a well ventilated area, start engine and allow to idle for up to 30 minutes until paint is cured
and dry.
Important:
Some "smoking" will occur while curing the paint with the engine running.
The paint can be heated and cured while driving, but be careful not to get the exhaust system wet
during the first 30 minutes.
Warranty Information
Labor Material
Operation Labor Time Allowance
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > Page 10072
A6150 0.6 hr - Single Exhaust GC
Add 0.2 hr - Dual Exhaust GC
Important:
While the above procedure and materials are correct for vehicles from 1993 to 1998, the Labor
Operation and Time Allowance only pertains to vehicles in the Warranty period.
* We believe this source and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Technical Service Bulletin # 05-08-51-008C Date: 090622
Body - Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-08-51-008C
Date: June 22, 2009
Subject: Bumps or Rust Colored Spots in Paint Due to Rail or Iron Dust (Remove Rail Dust)
Models:
1994-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2010 HUMMER H2
2006-2010 HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-08-51-008B (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Condition
Visible rust colored spots or bumps on a vehicle's paint surface from rail or iron dust.
Cause
Rail dust comes from tiny iron particles produced from the friction between train wheels and the
tracks and gets deposited on the vehicle surfaces. Iron dust can get deposited on the surface if the
vehicle is stored near any operation producing iron dust such as an iron ore yard. Either material
can lay on top of, or become embedded in, the paint surface.
Correction
Because the severity of the condition varies, proper diagnosis of the damage is critical to the
success of repairs. Diagnosis should be performed on horizontal surfaces (hood, roof, deck lid, pick
up box, etc.) after the vehicle has been properly cleaned. There are two types of repair materials
recommended to repair rail dust or iron dust:
1. GEL TYPE OXALIC ACID:
- Has the characteristics of the liquid type oxalic acid but stays where you put it because of its gel
consistency.
2. CLAY TYPE NON-ACID BASED:
- Requires surface lubricant during use. - Has different grades available.
Caution
Rail dust remover (Oxalic Acid) is an acidic substance containing chemicals that will break down
the iron particles embedded in the finish. When working with rail dust remover, use the necessary
safety equipment, including gloves and goggles. Follow the chemical manufacturer's directions
closely because it may require special handling and disposal.
If, upon inspection, some particles are still present, the various chemical manufacturer's processes
can be repeated.
After the removal process, small pits may remain in the clearcoat and can be corrected, in most
cases, with a finesse/polish operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > Page 10073
Procedure
1. Move the vehicle to a cool shaded area and make sure that the vehicle surfaces are cool during
the removal process. DO NOT PERFORM THE
REMOVAL PROCESS IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT OR ON A VEHICLE WITH HOT OR WARM BODY
PANELS.
2. Wash the vehicle with soap and water. Dry it immediately and clean the affected areas with a
wax and grease remover. 3. Perform the removal process according to the chemical
manufacturer's directions.
Once the damage has been repaired, the final step involves a polishing process.
Rail Dust Remover Manufacturers
Use the chemical manufacturers listed below, or equivalent:
Auto Magic(R) or Clay Magic(R) products available from:
Auto Wax Company, Inc. 1275 Round Table Dr. Dallas, TX 75247 (800) 826-0828 (Toll-Free) or
(214) 631-4000 (Local) Fax (214) 634-1342 www.automagic.com
[email protected]
E038 Fallout Gel or E038E Liquid Fallout Remover II available from:
Valvoline Car Brite Company 1910 South State Avenue Indianapolis, In 46203 (800) 347-2439 (Toll
Free) or (317) 788-9925 (Local) Fax (317) 788-9930 www.carbrite.com
[email protected] *We
believe these sources and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from these firms or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
If rail dust remover is not available in your area, call one of the numbers listed above for a
distributor near your location.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important Refer to the Policy & Procedures Manual, section 1.2.1.7 for detailed information
regarding warranty coverage for this condition.
Important In certain cases where the vehicle finish is severely damaged and the actual repair time
exceeds the published time, the additional time should be submitted in the "Other Labor Hours"
field.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > Page 10074
Disclaimer
Technical Service Bulletin # 33-17-01A Date: 971201
Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 33-17-01A
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Paint Peeling from Muffler (New Repair Paint Available)
Models: 1993-98 Passenger Cars with Painted Mufflers
This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 33-17-01 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may experience paint peeling from the muffler.
Correction
Clean and repaint the affected area using the following procedure and product.
Important:
DO NOT REPLACE COMPONENTS TO REPAIR THIS CONDITION.
The exhaust system must be cold to begin this procedure.
Material Required: * Wabash Products # KB-318-HHHS, available in pints or quarts as ready to
spray material (no mixing required). Call Wabash Products, 1-800-326-7269 or 812-232-6097 for
pricing and shipping information.
Procedure
On a cold exhaust system:
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. While supporting exhaust with a transmission jack, remove the rear exhaust system hangers and
lower the exhaust.
3. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
4. Wire brush the affected area to remove flaking paint and blow off with air.
5. Sand the affected area with # 80 to 150 grit sandpaper to remove rust, dirt or other
contaminants.
6. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
7. Tape off the rear lower body panels and exhaust pipes forward of mufflers to protect from
overspray.
8. Apply paint to affected area in several (6 to 8) thin coats (to prevent sags and runs) obtaining
approximately 1 mil paint coverage.
9. Raise exhaust system with jack, reinstall exhaust hangers, lower vehicle and remove from hoist.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > Page 10075
^ Allow 30 minutes drying time.
10. In a well ventilated area, start engine and allow to idle for up to 30 minutes until paint is cured
and dry.
Important:
Some "smoking" will occur while curing the paint with the engine running.
The paint can be heated and cured while driving, but be careful not to get the exhaust system wet
during the first 30 minutes.
Warranty Information
Labor Material
Operation Labor Time Allowance
A6150 0.6 hr - Single Exhaust GC
Add 0.2 hr - Dual Exhaust GC
Important:
While the above procedure and materials are correct for vehicles from 1993 to 1998, the Labor
Operation and Time Allowance only pertains to vehicles in the Warranty period.
* We believe this source and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Paint: Technician Safety Information
Basecoat/Clearcoat Paint Systems
CAUTION:
- Exposure to isocyanates during paint preparation and application processes can cause severe
breathing problems. Read and follow all of the instructions from the manufacturers of painting
materials, equipment, and protective gear.
- Approved safety glasses and gloves should be worn when performing this procedure to reduce
the chance of personal injury.
All paint finish repairs of rigid exterior surfaces must meet GM standards. The GM Approved
Refinish Materials book GM P/N
GM4901M-D identifies the paint systems you may use. Always refer to the latest revision of the
4901M-D book. All approved products, including volatile organic compound (VOC) compliant
regulations are listed in the system approach recommended by the individual manufacturer. Refer
to the manufacturer's instructions for the detailed procedures for materials used in the paint system
in the painting repairs of rigid exterior surfaces.
All components of an approved paint system have been engineered in order to ensure proper
adhesion between layers.If necessary, spot repairs or color blending in an open panel can be done.
However, do not blend clear coat in an open panel. Always apply clearcoat to the next break point
(body side molding, feature line, or the next panel)
Do not mix paint systems or substitute a product of one manufacturer for another manufacturer's
product.
If incompatible products are used together the following problems may occur:
- Lifting of primer coats caused by overly aggressive solvents in subsequent layers
- Loss of adhesion between layers due to incompatibility of resin systems
- Solvent popping or pin holing due to inappropriate solvent selection
- Poor through-curing due to incompatible hardener resins or insufficient reactivity
- Gloss reduction due to incompatible resins and/or solvents
- Poor color accuracy due to pigment interactions with incompatible resins and/or solvents
- Film defects (craters, blisters, orange peel loss of gloss) due to the use of inferior quality raw
materials in incompatible products.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 10078
Paint: Vehicle Damage Warnings
Basecoat/Clearcoat Paint Systems
CAUTION:
- Exposure to isocyanates during paint preparation and application processes can cause severe
breathing problems. Read and follow all of the instructions from the manufacturers of painting
materials, equipment, and protective gear.
- Approved safety glasses and gloves should be worn when performing this procedure to reduce
the chance of personal injury.
All paint finish repairs of rigid exterior surfaces must meet GM standards. The GM Approved
Refinish Materials book GM P/N
GM4901M-D identifies the paint systems you may use. Always refer to the latest revision of the
4901M-D book. All approved products, including volatile organic compound (VOC) compliant
regulations are listed in the system approach recommended by the individual manufacturer. Refer
to the manufacturer's instructions for the detailed procedures for materials used in the paint system
in the painting repairs of rigid exterior surfaces.
All components of an approved paint system have been engineered in order to ensure proper
adhesion between layers.If necessary, spot repairs or color blending in an open panel can be done.
However, do not blend clear coat in an open panel. Always apply clearcoat to the next break point
(body side molding, feature line, or the next panel)
Do not mix paint systems or substitute a product of one manufacturer for another manufacturer's
product.
If incompatible products are used together the following problems may occur:
- Lifting of primer coats caused by overly aggressive solvents in subsequent layers
- Loss of adhesion between layers due to incompatibility of resin systems
- Solvent popping or pin holing due to inappropriate solvent selection
- Poor through-curing due to incompatible hardener resins or insufficient reactivity
- Gloss reduction due to incompatible resins and/or solvents
- Poor color accuracy due to pigment interactions with incompatible resins and/or solvents
- Film defects (craters, blisters, orange peel loss of gloss) due to the use of inferior quality raw
materials in incompatible products.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Radiator Support > Component Information > Service and Repair
Radiator Support: Service and Repair
RADIATOR SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
The radiator support assembly (Figure 2-1) consists of nine major components: four upper and five
lower. The center reinforcement and left and right extensions are preassembled. This helps the
technician to properly align the front structure. The upper support is serviced separately for efficient
installation. The lower support is held in place with six bolts. It attaches to four brackets that are
welded to the lower rails. These brackets are available as part of the lower rail service assembly or
they can be ordered separately.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Remove all related panels and components. 2. Visually inspect and restore as much of the
damage as possible to factory specifications. 3. Remove sealers, sound deadeners and corrosion
materials as necessary. 4. Locate, mark and drill out all factory welds. Note the number of welds for
installation of the service panels. 5. Remove the damaged panels in the radiator support assembly
Install or Connect
1. Prepare mating surfaces and check for proper fit of the service panels. 2. On the service panels,
drill 8mm (5/16") plug weld holes as necessary in the locations noted from the original assembly. 3.
Position the service panels, check fit using body dimensions, and plug weld accordingly with
frequent measurements to ensure proper fit. 4. Clean and prepare welded surfaces. Prime with
two-part catalyzed primer. Apply sealers and corrosion protection materials, as necessary. Do not
combine paint systems. Refer to paint manufacturer's recommendations. Reinstall all related
panels and components.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10086
Folding Top Relay
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Keyless Entry Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Keyless Entry Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open the rear compartment. 3. Remove the left inner
trim panel. 4. Disconnect one of the electrical connectors (3 or 4). 5. Remove the push pins. 6.
Remove the remote control door lock receiver (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the remote control door lock receiver (1) to the rear compartment brace. 2. Install the push
pins to the brace. 3. Connect the electrical connector (3 or 4). 4. Install the rear compartment trim.
5. Close the rear compartment. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Reprogram the new
receiver to the transmitter(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10093
Door Lock Relay
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Frame > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Convertible Top Frame: >
99-08-57-019 > May > 99 > Convertible Top - Water Leak at Front Header
Convertible Top Frame: Customer Interest Convertible Top - Water Leak at Front Header
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-57-019
Date: May, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Water Leak at Front Header (Measure/Remove Material, install Shims)
Models: 1995-99 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-99 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
Condition
Some customers may comment that there is a water leak at the outboard corners of the convertible
top interior.
Correction
^ Strikers are adjusted rearward to allow the front leading edge of bow to contact the seal In plain
view (distance from header to convertible top should be 10-13 mm (25/54 - 1/2). The front edge of
the convertible top (or # 1 bow) must contact the seal. No visible gaps allowed (see Figure 1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Frame > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Convertible Top Frame: >
99-08-57-019 > May > 99 > Convertible Top - Water Leak at Front Header > Page 10104
^ Check under the striker for shim. One shim is required under # 1 bow strikers (see Figure 2). Add
shim if necessary.
Important: The new top cover single seam design built after June, 1998 requires one shim per
striker. Two piece top cover single seam (see Figure 2).
^ Tops built prior to June, 1998 with the header welt, P/N 12365667 were built with two shims per
striker. Three piece top cover (see Figure 3).
Important:
This procedure requires the use of an upholstery type or automotive trim stapler by a technician
knowledgeable in replacement of the convertible top cover material. If you intend to sublet vehicles
requiring this repair to an independent automotive trim shop, please supply them with this Service
Bulletin.
^ The top cover installation over the front leading edge of the # 1 bow, must be free of wrinkles for
good seal to the header. See highlighted area in Figure 2.
^ The outboard edge binding must be trimmed 12.7-19.05 mm (1/2 - 1/4 in) long and stapled at the
edges with stainless steel staples (see Figure 2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Frame > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Convertible Top Frame: >
99-08-57-019 > May > 99 > Convertible Top - Water Leak at Front Header > Page 10105
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Frame > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Convertible Top Frame:
> 99-08-57-019 > May > 99 > Convertible Top - Water Leak at Front Header
Convertible Top Frame: All Technical Service Bulletins Convertible Top - Water Leak at Front
Header
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-57-019
Date: May, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Water Leak at Front Header (Measure/Remove Material, install Shims)
Models: 1995-99 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-99 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
Condition
Some customers may comment that there is a water leak at the outboard corners of the convertible
top interior.
Correction
^ Strikers are adjusted rearward to allow the front leading edge of bow to contact the seal In plain
view (distance from header to convertible top should be 10-13 mm (25/54 - 1/2). The front edge of
the convertible top (or # 1 bow) must contact the seal. No visible gaps allowed (see Figure 1).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Frame > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Convertible Top Frame:
> 99-08-57-019 > May > 99 > Convertible Top - Water Leak at Front Header > Page 10111
^ Check under the striker for shim. One shim is required under # 1 bow strikers (see Figure 2). Add
shim if necessary.
Important: The new top cover single seam design built after June, 1998 requires one shim per
striker. Two piece top cover single seam (see Figure 2).
^ Tops built prior to June, 1998 with the header welt, P/N 12365667 were built with two shims per
striker. Three piece top cover (see Figure 3).
Important:
This procedure requires the use of an upholstery type or automotive trim stapler by a technician
knowledgeable in replacement of the convertible top cover material. If you intend to sublet vehicles
requiring this repair to an independent automotive trim shop, please supply them with this Service
Bulletin.
^ The top cover installation over the front leading edge of the # 1 bow, must be free of wrinkles for
good seal to the header. See highlighted area in Figure 2.
^ The outboard edge binding must be trimmed 12.7-19.05 mm (1/2 - 1/4 in) long and stapled at the
edges with stainless steel staples (see Figure 2).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Frame > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Convertible Top Frame:
> 99-08-57-019 > May > 99 > Convertible Top - Water Leak at Front Header > Page 10112
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Motor > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Motor > Component Information > Locations > Page 10116
LH Folding Top Motor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 10120
Folding Top Relay
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Convertible Top Bypass Switch
Bypass Switch (Folding Top)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Convertible Top Bypass Switch > Page 10126
Folding Top Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Convertible Top Weatherstrip:
> 83-10-94 > Mar > 98 > Convertible Top - Waterleak Between Side Rail & Cover
Convertible Top Weatherstrip: Customer Interest Convertible Top - Waterleak Between Side Rail &
Cover
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-10-94
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Waterleak between the Convertible Top Cover and the Front and/or Side Rail - RH/LH
(Add Secondary Weatherstrip)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
Condition Some owners may comment on water entering the vehicle from the convertible top side
rails. Water may collect in side rails and be noticed when top is lowered.
Cause During condition of high water pressure, the top cover may lift from side rails, allowing water
intrusion.
Correction Install a secondary weatherstrip to the left and right hand front and center rails, using kit
P/N 12366099.
Installation instructions are included with each kit.
Parts Information P/N
Description
12366099 Kit Secondary Weatherstrip Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
C1536/37 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Convertible Top > Convertible Top
Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Convertible Top
Weatherstrip: > 83-10-94 > Mar > 98 > Convertible Top - Waterleak Between Side Rail & Cover
Convertible Top Weatherstrip: All Technical Service Bulletins Convertible Top - Waterleak Between
Side Rail & Cover
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-10-94
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Waterleak between the Convertible Top Cover and the Front and/or Side Rail - RH/LH
(Add Secondary Weatherstrip)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
Condition Some owners may comment on water entering the vehicle from the convertible top side
rails. Water may collect in side rails and be noticed when top is lowered.
Cause During condition of high water pressure, the top cover may lift from side rails, allowing water
intrusion.
Correction Install a secondary weatherstrip to the left and right hand front and center rails, using kit
P/N 12366099.
Installation instructions are included with each kit.
Parts Information P/N
Description
12366099 Kit Secondary Weatherstrip Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
C1536/37 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-08-67-009A > Mar > 04 >
Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close Completely
Sunroof / Moonroof Motor: Customer Interest Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close Completely
Bulletin No.: 03-08-67-009A
Date: March 08, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Sunroof Will Not Open or Close Completely (Replace Sunroof Motor)
Models: 1998-2004 Chevrolet Cavalier 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
1998-2004 Pontiac Sunfire
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to change the part number. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
03-08-67-009 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the sunroof will not open or will not close completely.
Cause
This condition may be due to the sunroof motor. Follow the procedure below for diagnostics.
Sunroof Motor Diagnosis
1. Remove the headliner as necessary.
2. Jumper Pin # 1 and Pin # 8 on the sunroof express module. If more access is needed, push the
module towards the motor and unlock it from the bracket. Refer to the Illustration above.
Note:
Avoid operating the sunroof glass to the full open position. Since the limit switch has a jumper
across it, there will be no indication to the sunroof module to stop the glass at the full open soft
stop. The glass can slide past the full open position, possibly damaging the sunroof assembly
and/or the roof.
3. With the ignition ON, push the sunroof switch to the close position to fully seat the sunroof. If this
action fully closes the sunroof, replace the sunroof motor only. Refer to the Sunroof Motor
Replacement below. If this action does not fully close the sunroof, go to Diagnostic Starting
Point-Roof in the service manual.
4. Remove the jumper and re-lock the sunroof express module back into its bracket.
Sunroof Motor Replacement
Service Procedure
Note:
This sunroof system is timed from the factory so that the sunroof actuator automatically shuts off
when the window panel reaches a certain position. Be careful not to disrupt this factory timing when
removing the sunroof actuator from the sunroof module. Disrupting the factory
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-08-67-009A > Mar > 04 >
Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close Completely > Page 10149
timing may cause damage to the sunroof system. Close the window panel whenever you remove
the sunroof actuator from the sunroof module assembly.
1. Clip the tie straps and remove the express module by sliding it towards the motor to unlock it
from the slots provided in the module.
2. Disconnect the wire harness from the express module, power supply, and switch.
3. remove the sunroof motor/actuator bolts(2) from the sunroof motor/actuator.
4. Remove the sunroof motor/actuator from the sunroof module.
5. Remove the sunroof glass.
6. Make sure the sunroof lift arms are aligned by inserting a pin in the front sunroof glass
attachment hole to the lift arm cam. If you can insert a large paper clip through the two, it is aligned.
Refer to the illustration above.
7. If the arms are not aligned, push the arms with a screwdriver at the location shown. Refer to the
illustration above.
Important:
Before you install a new sunroof motor/actuator or re-install the old actuator to the sunroof module,
ensure that the actuator is timed to the closed position.
8. Verify that the original sunroof motor/actuator or the new sunroof motor/actuator is timed to the
closed position by preforming the following steps:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-08-67-009A > Mar > 04 >
Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close Completely > Page 10150
8.1. The hole in the large timing gear (3), the notch in the disk (2) below the drive gear and the
scribe mark (1) on the drive gear should all be in line with each other. Refer to the illustration
above.
8.2. If the actuator is not timed to the closed position, connect the switch, headliner harness and
express module to the sunroof motor/actuator and run the actuator to the closed position. Verify
that all timing marks are aligned.
9. Position the sunroof motor/actuator to the sunroof module.
Note:
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part
number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of
thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints,
lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These
coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fasteners. Use the
correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage
to parts and systems.
10. Install the sunroof motor/actuator.
Tighten
Tighten the sunroof motor/actuator to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
11. Connect the wire harness connectors to the express module. Slide the express module into the
slots and lock it. Reconnect the power supply and the switch to the express module. Secure the
wire harness to the drive tube and return tube with tie wraps.
12. Install the headliner as necessary.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-08-67-009A > Mar > 04 >
Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close Completely > Page 10151
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-08-67-009A
> Mar > 04 > Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close Completely
Sunroof / Moonroof Motor: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close
Completely
Bulletin No.: 03-08-67-009A
Date: March 08, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Sunroof Will Not Open or Close Completely (Replace Sunroof Motor)
Models: 1998-2004 Chevrolet Cavalier 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
1998-2004 Pontiac Sunfire
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to change the part number. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
03-08-67-009 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the sunroof will not open or will not close completely.
Cause
This condition may be due to the sunroof motor. Follow the procedure below for diagnostics.
Sunroof Motor Diagnosis
1. Remove the headliner as necessary.
2. Jumper Pin # 1 and Pin # 8 on the sunroof express module. If more access is needed, push the
module towards the motor and unlock it from the bracket. Refer to the Illustration above.
Note:
Avoid operating the sunroof glass to the full open position. Since the limit switch has a jumper
across it, there will be no indication to the sunroof module to stop the glass at the full open soft
stop. The glass can slide past the full open position, possibly damaging the sunroof assembly
and/or the roof.
3. With the ignition ON, push the sunroof switch to the close position to fully seat the sunroof. If this
action fully closes the sunroof, replace the sunroof motor only. Refer to the Sunroof Motor
Replacement below. If this action does not fully close the sunroof, go to Diagnostic Starting
Point-Roof in the service manual.
4. Remove the jumper and re-lock the sunroof express module back into its bracket.
Sunroof Motor Replacement
Service Procedure
Note:
This sunroof system is timed from the factory so that the sunroof actuator automatically shuts off
when the window panel reaches a certain position. Be careful not to disrupt this factory timing when
removing the sunroof actuator from the sunroof module. Disrupting the factory
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-08-67-009A
> Mar > 04 > Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close Completely > Page 10157
timing may cause damage to the sunroof system. Close the window panel whenever you remove
the sunroof actuator from the sunroof module assembly.
1. Clip the tie straps and remove the express module by sliding it towards the motor to unlock it
from the slots provided in the module.
2. Disconnect the wire harness from the express module, power supply, and switch.
3. remove the sunroof motor/actuator bolts(2) from the sunroof motor/actuator.
4. Remove the sunroof motor/actuator from the sunroof module.
5. Remove the sunroof glass.
6. Make sure the sunroof lift arms are aligned by inserting a pin in the front sunroof glass
attachment hole to the lift arm cam. If you can insert a large paper clip through the two, it is aligned.
Refer to the illustration above.
7. If the arms are not aligned, push the arms with a screwdriver at the location shown. Refer to the
illustration above.
Important:
Before you install a new sunroof motor/actuator or re-install the old actuator to the sunroof module,
ensure that the actuator is timed to the closed position.
8. Verify that the original sunroof motor/actuator or the new sunroof motor/actuator is timed to the
closed position by preforming the following steps:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-08-67-009A
> Mar > 04 > Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close Completely > Page 10158
8.1. The hole in the large timing gear (3), the notch in the disk (2) below the drive gear and the
scribe mark (1) on the drive gear should all be in line with each other. Refer to the illustration
above.
8.2. If the actuator is not timed to the closed position, connect the switch, headliner harness and
express module to the sunroof motor/actuator and run the actuator to the closed position. Verify
that all timing marks are aligned.
9. Position the sunroof motor/actuator to the sunroof module.
Note:
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part
number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of
thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints,
lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These
coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fasteners. Use the
correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage
to parts and systems.
10. Install the sunroof motor/actuator.
Tighten
Tighten the sunroof motor/actuator to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
11. Connect the wire harness connectors to the express module. Slide the express module into the
slots and lock it. Reconnect the power supply and the switch to the express module. Secure the
wire harness to the drive tube and return tube with tie wraps.
12. Install the headliner as necessary.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-08-67-009A
> Mar > 04 > Body - Sunroof Won't Open/Close Completely > Page 10159
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sunroof / Moonroof
Motor: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light
ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sunroof / Moonroof
Motor: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 10165
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sunroof / Moonroof
Motor: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 10166
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sunroof / Moonroof
Motor: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 10172
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sunroof / Moonroof
Motor: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 10173
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Switch > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Head Restraint System > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Restraints - Driver/Passenger Seat Head Rest Information
Head Restraint System: Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Driver/Passenger Seat Head Rest
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-50-003A
Date: March 24, 2011
Subject: Information on Driver or Passenger Seat Head Restraint Concerns with Comfort, Custom
Upholstery or Other Comfort Enhancing Devices
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Equipped with Adjustable Head Restraints
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 10-08-50-003 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH ADJUSTABLE HEAD RESTRAINTS, USE THE
HEAD RESTRAINT COVERS, FOAM AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT AS
RELEASED BY GM FOR THAT VEHICLE. DO NOT ALTER OR REPOSITION THE HEAD
RESTRAINT SYSTEM. ANY ALTERATIONS TO HEAD RESTRAINTS DEFEATS THE INTENDED
DESIGN OF THE SYSTEM. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE
OF SUCH IMPROPER DESIGN ALTERATIONS, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS
INCURRED.
You may have a customer with a concern that the head restraint is uncomfortable or sits too far
forward. The front driver and passenger seats are equipped with head restraints that have been
designed to help minimize injuries while still providing comfort to the occupants. Each GM vehicle
has its own specifically designed head restraint.
The head restraints should only be used in the vehicle for which they were designed. The head
restraint will not operate to its design intent if the original foam is replaced (1) by non-GM foam or
head restraint, (2) by GM foam or head restraint designed for a different vehicle, (3) by GM foam or
head restraint that has been altered by a trim shop or (4) if any object, such as an aftermarket
comfort enhancing pad or device, is installed.
Never modify the design of the head restraint or remove the head restraint from the vehicle as this
may interfere with the operation of the seating and restraint systems and may prevent proper
positioning of the passenger within the vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
Seat Back: Customer Interest Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-50-007
Date: April, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Material Bulge in Top Backside of Front Bucket Seat (Add Plastic Tie Straps to Seat
Frame)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some customers may comment that there is a bulge (2) in the material on the top backside of
either front bucket seat (1).
Cause
The suspension located inside the seat back may have slipped out of position on the seat back
frame.
Correction
Reposition the suspension on the seat back frame and secure with a plastic tie strap, using the
following procedure:
Important:
Refer to the Seats sub-section in the appropriate Service Manual for additional information on seat
removal, disassembly, reassembly and installation.
1. Remove the seat from the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside > Page
10190
2. Remove the headrest.
3. Remove the recliner cover.
4. Disconnect the Easy Entry Adjuster Cable from the seat track adjuster (passenger seat only).
5. Remove the bolts attaching the recliner and the pivot to the seat cushion assembly and separate
the seat back assembly from the seat cushion assembly.
6. Remove the seat back lock release lever knob (coupe and convertible only).
7. Unhook the closeout strip at the bottom of the seat back cover.
8. Unhook the seat back foam from the bottom of the seat back frame.
9. Pull the seat back frame out from the seat back foam pad and cover assembly.
10. Reposition the suspension (4) onto the front side of the seat frame (1), insuring that the slip
sheeting (2) is between the frame and the suspension.
Important:
When installing the plastic tie straps in the next step, keep the ends of the tie straps to the inboard
side of the seat back frame.
11. Secure both sides of the suspension to the seat back frame with plastic tie straps (3) as shown.
Position the tie straps with the ends inboard of the seat back frame.
12. Cut off any excess length from both plastic tie straps (5).
13. Insert the seat back frame assembly inside the seat back foam pad and cover assembly and
re-hook bottom of foam to the frame.
14. Re-hook the closeout strip on the bottom of the seat back cover.
15. Install the seat back lock release lever knob (coupe and convertible only).
16. Position the seat back frame assembly to the seat cushion assembly. Install the two recliner
bolts and tighten to 24 N.m (16 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside > Page
10191
Important:
Apply Loctite® # 242 Blue Threadlocker, or equivalent, to the threads of the one pivot bolt during
installation in Step 17.
17. Install the white bushing, large washer and pivot bolt and tighten to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
18. Reconnect the Easy Adjuster Cable to the seat track adjuster (passenger seat only).
19. Install the recliner cover.
20. Install the headrest.
21. Install the seat in the vehicle. Tighten nuts to 29 N.m (22 lb ft).
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
Seat Back: All Technical Service Bulletins Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-50-007
Date: April, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Material Bulge in Top Backside of Front Bucket Seat (Add Plastic Tie Straps to Seat
Frame)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some customers may comment that there is a bulge (2) in the material on the top backside of
either front bucket seat (1).
Cause
The suspension located inside the seat back may have slipped out of position on the seat back
frame.
Correction
Reposition the suspension on the seat back frame and secure with a plastic tie strap, using the
following procedure:
Important:
Refer to the Seats sub-section in the appropriate Service Manual for additional information on seat
removal, disassembly, reassembly and installation.
1. Remove the seat from the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
> Page 10197
2. Remove the headrest.
3. Remove the recliner cover.
4. Disconnect the Easy Entry Adjuster Cable from the seat track adjuster (passenger seat only).
5. Remove the bolts attaching the recliner and the pivot to the seat cushion assembly and separate
the seat back assembly from the seat cushion assembly.
6. Remove the seat back lock release lever knob (coupe and convertible only).
7. Unhook the closeout strip at the bottom of the seat back cover.
8. Unhook the seat back foam from the bottom of the seat back frame.
9. Pull the seat back frame out from the seat back foam pad and cover assembly.
10. Reposition the suspension (4) onto the front side of the seat frame (1), insuring that the slip
sheeting (2) is between the frame and the suspension.
Important:
When installing the plastic tie straps in the next step, keep the ends of the tie straps to the inboard
side of the seat back frame.
11. Secure both sides of the suspension to the seat back frame with plastic tie straps (3) as shown.
Position the tie straps with the ends inboard of the seat back frame.
12. Cut off any excess length from both plastic tie straps (5).
13. Insert the seat back frame assembly inside the seat back foam pad and cover assembly and
re-hook bottom of foam to the frame.
14. Re-hook the closeout strip on the bottom of the seat back cover.
15. Install the seat back lock release lever knob (coupe and convertible only).
16. Position the seat back frame assembly to the seat cushion assembly. Install the two recliner
bolts and tighten to 24 N.m (16 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
> Page 10198
Important:
Apply Loctite® # 242 Blue Threadlocker, or equivalent, to the threads of the one pivot bolt during
installation in Step 17.
17. Install the white bushing, large washer and pivot bolt and tighten to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
18. Reconnect the Easy Adjuster Cable to the seat track adjuster (passenger seat only).
19. Install the recliner cover.
20. Install the headrest.
21. Install the seat in the vehicle. Tighten nuts to 29 N.m (22 lb ft).
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 83-10-95 > Feb > 98 > Seatback Striker, Rear - Add Remove/Install Procedure
Seat Back: All Technical Service Bulletins Seatback Striker, Rear - Add Remove/Install Procedure
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-10-95
Date: February, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 10-13 - Add Remove/Install Procedure for Rear Seatback Striker
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
This bulletin is being issued to add a new service procedure to Section 10-13 of the Service
Manual.
All 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire convertibles each have four shims (two per
attached bolt) located behind the rear seat striker. The striker is a carryover from the coupe;
however, shimming the striker is convertible only.
Please add the following procedure to Section 10-13 of the Service Manual.
Rear Seatback Striker (Convertible Only)
Figure 1
Remove or Disconnect
1. Rear seatback.
2. Boot center section.
3. Rear shelf carpet from the bottom of the closeout panel, as necessary.
4. Bolts, seat striker and the two shims.
Install or Connect
1. Two shims, seat striker and the bolts.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 83-10-95 > Feb > 98 > Seatback Striker, Rear - Add Remove/Install Procedure
> Page 10203
Tighten
Tighten rear seat striker bolts to 10 N.m (88.5 lb in.).
2. Rear shelf carpet to the bottom of the closeout panel.
3. Boot center section.
4. Rear seatback.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Back: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Back: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON > Page 10209
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Back: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON > Page 10210
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Back: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON > Page 10216
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Back > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Back: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON > Page 10217
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Interior - Seat Cover Wrinkle/Crease/Burn Info
Seat Cover: Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Seat Cover Wrinkle/Crease/Burn Info
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-08-50-006D
Date: September 09, 2010
Subject: Minor Wrinkles/Creases, Discoloration, Cigarette Burns and Customer Induced Cuts and
Stains on Front and Rear Driver and Passenger Seats with Leather, Vinyl or Cloth Seat Covers
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2 2010 and
Prior HUMMER H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X 2010 and Prior Saturn
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add a model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-08-50-006C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
If a customer comes in to your dealership due to certain conditions of the seat covers (splits,
wrinkles, loose stitching, etc.), you must examine the seat cover in order to determine the validity of
the customer claim. Some components from the above listed vehicles have been returned to the
Warranty Parts Center (WPC) and analysis of these parts showed "customer induced damage" or
No Trouble Found (NTF).
The dealer should pay particular attention to the following conditions:
- Cigarette burns
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Interior - Seat Cover Wrinkle/Crease/Burn Info > Page 10222
- Customer induced cuts (knife cuts, cut by customer tools, etc.)
- Paint stains (customer should have cleaned paint stains while paint was still wet)
- Coffee stains and other removable dirt These should be cleaned as described in the Owner's
Manual under Appearance Care. Also, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 06-00-89-029A or later.
- Evidence of chemicals used for cleaning, other than those specified in the Owner's Manual
- Other chemical spills
- Minor and normal leather wrinkles as a result of use
- Other defects to the seat cover not detected during the pre-delivery inspection (PDI).
Inform the customer that the above issues were not present when the vehicle was purchased and
cannot be replaced under warranty. The covers, however, may be repaired or replaced at the
customer's expense.
The following conditions are not caused by the customer and should be covered by warranty:
- Split seams
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Interior - Seat Cover Wrinkle/Crease/Burn Info > Page 10223
- Wear/cracking/peeling
- Discoloration/dye transfer from customer clothing (if discoloration/dye transfer is not removed
after using GM Leather and Vinyl Plastic Cleaner, P/N 88861401 (in Canada, P/N 88861409),
replace the covers.)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Interior - Seat Cover Wrinkle/Crease/Burn Info > Page 10224
Seat Cover: Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Elimination Of Unwanted Odors
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-027E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Eliminating Unwanted Odors in Vehicles
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years and refine the instructions. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-00-89-027D (Section 00 - General Information).
Vehicle Odor Elimination
General Motors offers a product that may control or eliminate odors in the interior and luggage
compartment areas of GM vehicles. GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator is a non-toxic,
biodegradable odor remover. This odorless product has been shown to greatly reduce or remove
objectionable smells of mold and mildew resulting from vehicle water leaks (as well as customer
created odors, i.e. smoke). You may use GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator on fabrics, vinyl,
leather, carpet and sound deadening materials. It may also be induced into HVAC modules and
instrument panel ducts (for the control of non-bacterial related odors).
Important:
This product leaves no residual scent and should not be sold as or considered an air freshener.
Product action may result in the permanent elimination of an odor and may be preferable to
customers with allergies who are sensitive to perfumes.
How to Use This Product
GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator may be sprayed on in a ready-to-use formula or used in steam
cleaners as an additive with carpet shampoo. This water-based, odorless product is safe for all
vehicle interiors. Do not wet or soak any interior surface that plain water would cause to
deteriorate, as this product will have the same effect. Also avoid letting this product come into
contact with vinegar or any acidic substance. Acid-based products will hamper the effectiveness of,
or render GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator inert.
Note:
Complete eight page treatment sheets are enclosed within each case of GM Vehicle Care Odor
Eliminator. These treatment instructions range from simple vehicle odor elimination to full step by
step procedures for odor removal from water leaks. If lost, contact 800-977-4145 to get a
replacement set faxed or e-mailed to your dealership.
Instructions and cautions are printed on the bottle, but additional help is available. If you encounter
a difficult to eliminate or reoccurring odor, you may call 1-800-955-8591 (in Canada,
1-800-977-4145) to obtain additional information and usage suggestions.
Important:
This product may effectively remove odors when directly contacting the odor source. It should be
used in conjunction with diagnostic procedures (in cases such as a water leak) to first eliminate the
root cause of the odor, and then the residual odor to permanently correct the vehicle condition.
Vehicle Waterleak Odor Elimination
STEP ONE:
Confirm that all water leaks have been repaired. Determine what areas of the vehicle were water
soaked or wet. Components with visible mold/mildew staining should be replaced. Isolate the odor
source inside the vehicle. Often an odor can be isolated to an area or component of the vehicle
interior by careful evaluation. Odor evaluation may need to be performed by multiple persons.
Another method of isolating an odor source is to remove and segregate interior trim and
components. Plastic sheeting or drop cloths can be used to confine seats, headliners, etc. to assist
in evaluation and diagnoses. If appropriate the vehicle and interior trim should be evaluated
separately to determine if the odor stays with the vehicle or the interior components. Odors that
stay with the vehicle may be isolated to insulating and sound deadening materials (i.e. water leak
at the windshield or standing water in the front foot well area caused mold/mildew to form on the
bulkhead or kick panel sound deadening pads. If the interior is removed the floor pan and
primed/painted surfaces should be treated with bleach/soap solution, rinsed with clean water and
dried. Interior surfaces should then be treated with GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator product
before reinstalling carpet or reassembling.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Interior - Seat Cover Wrinkle/Crease/Burn Info > Page 10225
The GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator product is an effective odor elimination product when used
properly. It must come into direct contact with the odor source. It should be used in conjunction with
diagnostic procedures to first eliminate the root cause of the odor. Some procedures for use after
odor root cause correction are:
STEP TWO:
^ Use the trigger spray head.
^ Put a drop of dish soap the size of a quarter in the bottom of a bottle.
^ Add 8 oz. of GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator (1 cup) to the dish soap and top off the bottle with
tap water.
^ This formula should be used on hard surfaces (dash, interior plastic molding, and floor pan)
STEP THREE:
The third step to neutralizing the vehicle is a light to medium treatment of all carpeting and
upholstered seats with the GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator formula and a wide fan spray setting
(at full strength) (i.e.: carpeting on the driver's side requires 4-5 triggers pulls for coverage). The
headliner and trunk should be sprayed next. Lightly brushing the formula into the carpeting and
upholstery is a recommended step for deep odor problems. The dash and all hard surfaces should
be sprayed with dish soap/water mixture. Let stand for 1-2 minutes then wipe off the surface.
STEP FOUR: (vehicle ventilation system treatment)
The ventilation system is generally the last step in the treatment of the vehicle.
a. Spray the GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator formula into all dash vents. (1-2 trigger pulls per
vent).
b. Start the vehicle and turn the vehicle fan on high cool (not A/C setting).
c. Spray the formula (10 trigger pulls) into the outside fresh air intake vent (cowl at base of
windshield)
d. Enter the vehicle after 1 minute and wipe off the excess formula spurting out of the dash vents.
e. Smell the air coming from the dash vents. If odors are still present, spray another 5 triggers into
the cowl, wait another minute and smell the results. Once you have obtained a fresh, clean smell
coming from the vents, turn the system to the A/C re-circulation setting. Roll up the windows, spray
3-5 pumps into the right lower IP area and let the vehicle run with the fan set on high for 5-7
minutes.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited
is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If
these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Additional Suggestions to Increase Customer Satisfaction
Here are some additional ideas to benefit your dealership and to generate greater customer
enthusiasm for this product.
^ Keep this product on-hand for both the Service Department and the Used Car lot. Add value to
your used car trades; treat loaner and demo cars during service and at final sale to eliminate
smoke, pet, and other common odors offensive to customers. Make deodorizing a vehicle part of
your normal vehicle detailing service.
^ Consider including GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator as a give-away item with new vehicle
purchases. Many dealers give away as "gifts" various cleaning supplies at time of delivery. GM
Odor Eliminator is one of a few products GM offers that has as many uses in the home as in the
vehicle. Customers may find this product can be used for a host of recreational activities
associated with their new vehicle, such as deodorizing a boat they tow, or a camper.
^ GM Odor Eliminator and many of the GM Vehicle Care products offer you the chance to increase
dealership traffic as these superior quality products cannot be purchased in stores. Many
Dealerships have product displays at the parts counter. Consider additional displays in the
Customer Service Lounge, the Showroom and at the Service Desk or Cashier Window. Many
customers who purchase vehicles and receive regular maintenance at your dealership may never
visit the parts counter, and subsequently are not exposed to the variety and value that these
products offer.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Interior - Seat Cover Wrinkle/Crease/Burn Info > Page 10226
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
Seat Cushion: Customer Interest Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-50-007
Date: April, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Material Bulge in Top Backside of Front Bucket Seat (Add Plastic Tie Straps to Seat
Frame)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some customers may comment that there is a bulge (2) in the material on the top backside of
either front bucket seat (1).
Cause
The suspension located inside the seat back may have slipped out of position on the seat back
frame.
Correction
Reposition the suspension on the seat back frame and secure with a plastic tie strap, using the
following procedure:
Important:
Refer to the Seats sub-section in the appropriate Service Manual for additional information on seat
removal, disassembly, reassembly and installation.
1. Remove the seat from the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside > Page
10235
2. Remove the headrest.
3. Remove the recliner cover.
4. Disconnect the Easy Entry Adjuster Cable from the seat track adjuster (passenger seat only).
5. Remove the bolts attaching the recliner and the pivot to the seat cushion assembly and separate
the seat back assembly from the seat cushion assembly.
6. Remove the seat back lock release lever knob (coupe and convertible only).
7. Unhook the closeout strip at the bottom of the seat back cover.
8. Unhook the seat back foam from the bottom of the seat back frame.
9. Pull the seat back frame out from the seat back foam pad and cover assembly.
10. Reposition the suspension (4) onto the front side of the seat frame (1), insuring that the slip
sheeting (2) is between the frame and the suspension.
Important:
When installing the plastic tie straps in the next step, keep the ends of the tie straps to the inboard
side of the seat back frame.
11. Secure both sides of the suspension to the seat back frame with plastic tie straps (3) as shown.
Position the tie straps with the ends inboard of the seat back frame.
12. Cut off any excess length from both plastic tie straps (5).
13. Insert the seat back frame assembly inside the seat back foam pad and cover assembly and
re-hook bottom of foam to the frame.
14. Re-hook the closeout strip on the bottom of the seat back cover.
15. Install the seat back lock release lever knob (coupe and convertible only).
16. Position the seat back frame assembly to the seat cushion assembly. Install the two recliner
bolts and tighten to 24 N.m (16 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside > Page
10236
Important:
Apply Loctite® # 242 Blue Threadlocker, or equivalent, to the threads of the one pivot bolt during
installation in Step 17.
17. Install the white bushing, large washer and pivot bolt and tighten to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
18. Reconnect the Easy Adjuster Cable to the seat track adjuster (passenger seat only).
19. Install the recliner cover.
20. Install the headrest.
21. Install the seat in the vehicle. Tighten nuts to 29 N.m (22 lb ft).
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
Seat Cushion: All Technical Service Bulletins Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-50-007
Date: April, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Material Bulge in Top Backside of Front Bucket Seat (Add Plastic Tie Straps to Seat
Frame)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some customers may comment that there is a bulge (2) in the material on the top backside of
either front bucket seat (1).
Cause
The suspension located inside the seat back may have slipped out of position on the seat back
frame.
Correction
Reposition the suspension on the seat back frame and secure with a plastic tie strap, using the
following procedure:
Important:
Refer to the Seats sub-section in the appropriate Service Manual for additional information on seat
removal, disassembly, reassembly and installation.
1. Remove the seat from the vehicle.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
> Page 10242
2. Remove the headrest.
3. Remove the recliner cover.
4. Disconnect the Easy Entry Adjuster Cable from the seat track adjuster (passenger seat only).
5. Remove the bolts attaching the recliner and the pivot to the seat cushion assembly and separate
the seat back assembly from the seat cushion assembly.
6. Remove the seat back lock release lever knob (coupe and convertible only).
7. Unhook the closeout strip at the bottom of the seat back cover.
8. Unhook the seat back foam from the bottom of the seat back frame.
9. Pull the seat back frame out from the seat back foam pad and cover assembly.
10. Reposition the suspension (4) onto the front side of the seat frame (1), insuring that the slip
sheeting (2) is between the frame and the suspension.
Important:
When installing the plastic tie straps in the next step, keep the ends of the tie straps to the inboard
side of the seat back frame.
11. Secure both sides of the suspension to the seat back frame with plastic tie straps (3) as shown.
Position the tie straps with the ends inboard of the seat back frame.
12. Cut off any excess length from both plastic tie straps (5).
13. Insert the seat back frame assembly inside the seat back foam pad and cover assembly and
re-hook bottom of foam to the frame.
14. Re-hook the closeout strip on the bottom of the seat back cover.
15. Install the seat back lock release lever knob (coupe and convertible only).
16. Position the seat back frame assembly to the seat cushion assembly. Install the two recliner
bolts and tighten to 24 N.m (16 lb ft).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-08-50-007 > Apr > 99 > Front Bucket Seat - Material Bulge in Top Backside
> Page 10243
Important:
Apply Loctite® # 242 Blue Threadlocker, or equivalent, to the threads of the one pivot bolt during
installation in Step 17.
17. Install the white bushing, large washer and pivot bolt and tighten to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
18. Reconnect the Easy Adjuster Cable to the seat track adjuster (passenger seat only).
19. Install the recliner cover.
20. Install the headrest.
21. Install the seat in the vehicle. Tighten nuts to 29 N.m (22 lb ft).
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Cushion: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Cushion: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 10249
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Cushion: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 10250
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Cushion: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 10256
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cushion > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Seat Cushion: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 10257
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Convertible Top Bypass Switch
Bypass Switch (Folding Top)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Convertible Top Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Convertible Top Bypass Switch > Page 10264
Folding Top Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Switch >
Component Information > Specifications
Power Door Lock Switch: Specifications
At the left front luggage compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 10268
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch
Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams Left Front Door Lock Switch
LF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch > Page 10271
LF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch > Page 10272
RF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 10273
Power Door Lock Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver in order to pry the power door lock switch. 2. Disconnect the wire
harness (8) from the power door lock switch (9). 3. Remove the power door lock switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the wire harness (8) to the power door lock switch. 2. Install the power door lock switch.
Ensure the unit is retained.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10278
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Convertible Top Weatherstrip > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Convertible Top Weatherstrip: > 83-10-94 > Mar > 98 > Convertible Top Waterleak Between Side Rail & Cover
Convertible Top Weatherstrip: Customer Interest Convertible Top - Waterleak Between Side Rail &
Cover
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-10-94
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Waterleak between the Convertible Top Cover and the Front and/or Side Rail - RH/LH
(Add Secondary Weatherstrip)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
Condition Some owners may comment on water entering the vehicle from the convertible top side
rails. Water may collect in side rails and be noticed when top is lowered.
Cause During condition of high water pressure, the top cover may lift from side rails, allowing water
intrusion.
Correction Install a secondary weatherstrip to the left and right hand front and center rails, using kit
P/N 12366099.
Installation instructions are included with each kit.
Parts Information P/N
Description
12366099 Kit Secondary Weatherstrip Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
C1536/37 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Convertible Top Weatherstrip > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Convertible Top Weatherstrip: > 83-10-94 > Mar > 98 >
Convertible Top - Waterleak Between Side Rail & Cover
Convertible Top Weatherstrip: All Technical Service Bulletins Convertible Top - Waterleak Between
Side Rail & Cover
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-10-94
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Waterleak between the Convertible Top Cover and the Front and/or Side Rail - RH/LH
(Add Secondary Weatherstrip)
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
Condition Some owners may comment on water entering the vehicle from the convertible top side
rails. Water may collect in side rails and be noticed when top is lowered.
Cause During condition of high water pressure, the top cover may lift from side rails, allowing water
intrusion.
Correction Install a secondary weatherstrip to the left and right hand front and center rails, using kit
P/N 12366099.
Installation instructions are included with each kit.
Parts Information P/N
Description
12366099 Kit Secondary Weatherstrip Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
C1536/37 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise Control) > Component Information > Locations
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Locations
Brake Switch And Cruise Control Brake Switch
At the left lower instrument panel, below the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise Control) > Component Information > Locations >
Page 10300
Cruise Control Brake Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise Control) > Component Information > Locations >
Page 10301
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Adjustments
IMPORTANT: If you do not adjust the switches properly, the cruise control system may not work
properly.
You may not adjust the release switch assembly and the stoplamp switch assembly until after you
assemble the brake booster pushrod to the brake pedal assembly. Adjust the cruise control release
switch and the stoplamp switch together.
1. Press the brake pedal assembly. Insert the switch assembly and stoplamp switch assembly into
the retainers until fully seated. 2. Slowly release the brake pedal assembly back to its fully retracted
position. The release switch assembly will move within its retainers to the
"adjusted" position.
Use the following brake pedal assembly travel distances to check for properly adjusted release and
stoplamp switch assemblies:
^ Release switch assembly and stoplamp switch assembly contacts must be open at 3.5 to 12.5
mm (1/8 to 1/2 in) brake pedal assembly travel. Take the measurement at the centerline of the
brake pedal assembly pad.
^ Nominal actuation of the stoplamp switch assembly contacts is about 4.5 mm (3/16 in) after the
cruise control switch assembly contacts close.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise Control) > Component Information > Locations >
Page 10302
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the left sound insulator. 2. Disconnect the wiring harness connector(s). 3. Pull the
switch rearward in order to remove the switch from the retainer in the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the retainer into the bracket (from the forward side). 2. With the brake or clutch pedal
depressed, insert the switch into the retainer until the switch seats on the retainer. You may hear
audible "clicks" as
the ribbed portion of the switch pushes forward through the retainer.
3. Connect the wiring harness connector(s). 4. Adjust the switch in the following manner:
4.1. Pull the brake or clutch pedal fully rearward against the pedal stop until you can not hear
audible "clicks". The switch moves in the retainer. This movement provides adjustment.
4.2. Release the brake or the clutch pedal. Repeat the above in order to ensure that you have
properly adjusted the switch.
5. Install the sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise Control > Component Information > Locations
Clutch Switch: Locations
Cruise Control Clutch And Clutch Pedal Switches
At the left lower instrument panel, below the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise Control > Component Information > Locations >
Page 10306
Cruise Control Clutch Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module > Component Information > Specifications
Cruise Control Module: Specifications
Control Module Assembly Bracket to Front of Dash
....................................................................................................................................25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Control Module Assembly Bracket to Strut Tower
.......................................................................................................................................25 N.m (18 lb
ft) Control Module Assembly to Bracket
..........................................................................................................................................................10
N.m (89 lb in) Module Assembly to Mounting Bracket Nuts
............................................................................................................................................12 N.m
(106 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module > Component Information > Specifications > Page
10310
Cruise Control Module: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module > Component Information > Specifications > Page
10311
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module > Component Information > Specifications > Page
10312
Cruise Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Cruise Control Module Replacement (LD9)
Cruise Control Module: Service and Repair Cruise Control Module Replacement (LD9)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE The cruise control module assembly is mounted on the right front strut
tower. The module assembly has an electronic controller and an electric stepper motor in order to
vary the throttle with each different cruise control mode. The module assembly is not serviceable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the cruise control cable. 3. Disconnect the
electrical connector from the module assembly. 4. Remove the module retaining nuts. 5. Remove
the module (1) from the mounting bracket. 6. Remove the module assembly from the front of the
dash.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
IMPORTANT: Do not pre-tap screws to the module without mounting a bracket in between the
module and the screw. The added length of the screw may damage the cruise control module.
1. Install the module assembly (1) to the front of the dash.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
2. Connect the electrical connector to the module. 3. Install the cruise control cable. 4. Adjust the
cruise control cable. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Cruise Control Module Replacement (LD9) > Page 10315
Cruise Control Module: Service and Repair Cruise Control Module Replacement (LN2)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE The cruise control module assembly is mounted on the right front strut
tower. The module assembly has an electronic controller and an electric stepper motor in order to
vary the throttle with each different cruise control mode. The module assembly is not serviceable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the cruise control cable. 3. Disconnect the
electrical connector from the module assembly. 4. Remove the retaining nuts from the mounting
studs. 5. Remove the module assembly (1) from the right strut tower. 6. Remove the module
assembly from the mounting bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
IMPORTANT: Do not pre-tap screws to the module without mounting a bracket in between the
module and the screw. The added length of the screw may damage the cruise control module.
1. Install the module assembly (1) to the mounting bracket.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
2. Install the module assembly to strut tower. 3. Install the nuts.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).
4. Connect the electrical connector to the module. 5. Install the cruise control cable.
6. 6. Adjust cruise control cable. 7. Connect negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Servo Cable > Component Information > Adjustments
Cruise Control Servo Cable: Adjustments
1. Depress the tabs on the cruise control cable in order to disengage the adjustment lock. Use long
nose pliers. The cable will move freely in and out
of the adjuster when you disengage the lock.
2. Hold the TBI at the closed position.
IMPORTANT: Do not remove the engagement lock from the cable. If the engagement lock
separates from the cruise control cable, you must replace the cruise control cable.
3. Engage the adjustment lock.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Cruise Control Switch Assembly
Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Cruise Control Switch Assembly
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the left sound insulator. 2. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors. 3. Pull the clutch
pedal switch (1) rearward in order to remove the switch from the retainer in the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the retainer into the bracket from the forward side. 2. Depress the clutch pedal (3). 3.
Insert the switch into the retainer until the switch seats on the retainer. 4. Connect the wiring
harness to the clutch pedal switch. 5. Use the following steps in order to adjust the switch:
5.1. Pull the clutch pedal fully rearward against the pedal stop until you cannot hear the clicks.
5.2. Move the switch in the retainer in order to adjust the switch.
5.3. Release the clutch pedal.
5.4. Repeat the procedure, if necessary, in order to properly adjust the switch.
6. Connect the wiring harness connectors. 7. Install the sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Cruise Control Switch Assembly > Page 10323
Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Headlamp/Turn Signal/Cruise Control/Hazard Switch
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications
Cruise Control Module: Specifications
Control Module Assembly Bracket to Front of Dash
....................................................................................................................................25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Control Module Assembly Bracket to Strut Tower
.......................................................................................................................................25 N.m (18 lb
ft) Control Module Assembly to Bracket
..........................................................................................................................................................10
N.m (89 lb in) Module Assembly to Mounting Bracket Nuts
............................................................................................................................................12 N.m
(106 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 10328
Cruise Control Module: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 10329
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 10330
Cruise Control Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cruise Control Module Replacement (LD9)
Cruise Control Module: Service and Repair Cruise Control Module Replacement (LD9)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE The cruise control module assembly is mounted on the right front strut
tower. The module assembly has an electronic controller and an electric stepper motor in order to
vary the throttle with each different cruise control mode. The module assembly is not serviceable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the cruise control cable. 3. Disconnect the
electrical connector from the module assembly. 4. Remove the module retaining nuts. 5. Remove
the module (1) from the mounting bracket. 6. Remove the module assembly from the front of the
dash.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
IMPORTANT: Do not pre-tap screws to the module without mounting a bracket in between the
module and the screw. The added length of the screw may damage the cruise control module.
1. Install the module assembly (1) to the front of the dash.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
2. Connect the electrical connector to the module. 3. Install the cruise control cable. 4. Adjust the
cruise control cable. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cruise Control Module Replacement (LD9) > Page 10333
Cruise Control Module: Service and Repair Cruise Control Module Replacement (LN2)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE The cruise control module assembly is mounted on the right front strut
tower. The module assembly has an electronic controller and an electric stepper motor in order to
vary the throttle with each different cruise control mode. The module assembly is not serviceable.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the cruise control cable. 3. Disconnect the
electrical connector from the module assembly. 4. Remove the retaining nuts from the mounting
studs. 5. Remove the module assembly (1) from the right strut tower. 6. Remove the module
assembly from the mounting bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
IMPORTANT: Do not pre-tap screws to the module without mounting a bracket in between the
module and the screw. The added length of the screw may damage the cruise control module.
1. Install the module assembly (1) to the mounting bracket.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
2. Install the module assembly to strut tower. 3. Install the nuts.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).
4. Connect the electrical connector to the module. 5. Install the cruise control cable.
6. 6. Adjust cruise control cable. 7. Connect negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise Control) >
Component Information > Locations
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Locations
Brake Switch And Cruise Control Brake Switch
At the left lower instrument panel, below the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise Control) >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10338
Cruise Control Brake Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise Control) >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10339
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Adjustments
IMPORTANT: If you do not adjust the switches properly, the cruise control system may not work
properly.
You may not adjust the release switch assembly and the stoplamp switch assembly until after you
assemble the brake booster pushrod to the brake pedal assembly. Adjust the cruise control release
switch and the stoplamp switch together.
1. Press the brake pedal assembly. Insert the switch assembly and stoplamp switch assembly into
the retainers until fully seated. 2. Slowly release the brake pedal assembly back to its fully retracted
position. The release switch assembly will move within its retainers to the
"adjusted" position.
Use the following brake pedal assembly travel distances to check for properly adjusted release and
stoplamp switch assemblies:
^ Release switch assembly and stoplamp switch assembly contacts must be open at 3.5 to 12.5
mm (1/8 to 1/2 in) brake pedal assembly travel. Take the measurement at the centerline of the
brake pedal assembly pad.
^ Nominal actuation of the stoplamp switch assembly contacts is about 4.5 mm (3/16 in) after the
cruise control switch assembly contacts close.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise Control) >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10340
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the left sound insulator. 2. Disconnect the wiring harness connector(s). 3. Pull the
switch rearward in order to remove the switch from the retainer in the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the retainer into the bracket (from the forward side). 2. With the brake or clutch pedal
depressed, insert the switch into the retainer until the switch seats on the retainer. You may hear
audible "clicks" as
the ribbed portion of the switch pushes forward through the retainer.
3. Connect the wiring harness connector(s). 4. Adjust the switch in the following manner:
4.1. Pull the brake or clutch pedal fully rearward against the pedal stop until you can not hear
audible "clicks". The switch moves in the retainer. This movement provides adjustment.
4.2. Release the brake or the clutch pedal. Repeat the above in order to ensure that you have
properly adjusted the switch.
5. Install the sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise Control >
Component Information > Locations
Clutch Switch: Locations
Cruise Control Clutch And Clutch Pedal Switches
At the left lower instrument panel, below the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise Control >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10344
Cruise Control Clutch Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cruise Control Switch Assembly
Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Cruise Control Switch Assembly
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the left sound insulator. 2. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors. 3. Pull the clutch
pedal switch (1) rearward in order to remove the switch from the retainer in the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the retainer into the bracket from the forward side. 2. Depress the clutch pedal (3). 3.
Insert the switch into the retainer until the switch seats on the retainer. 4. Connect the wiring
harness to the clutch pedal switch. 5. Use the following steps in order to adjust the switch:
5.1. Pull the clutch pedal fully rearward against the pedal stop until you cannot hear the clicks.
5.2. Move the switch in the retainer in order to adjust the switch.
5.3. Release the clutch pedal.
5.4. Repeat the procedure, if necessary, in order to properly adjust the switch.
6. Connect the wiring harness connectors. 7. Install the sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cruise Control Switch Assembly > Page 10349
Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Headlamp/Turn Signal/Cruise Control/Hazard Switch
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > ABS Light > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored
ABS Light: Testing and Inspection ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored
ABS Indicator On No DTC Set Wiring Diagram
ABS Indicator On No DTC Set
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Two-way serial communication is sent back and forth between the EBC and the IPC. A message
from the IPC is sent to the EBCM within seven seconds after ABS initialization. A serial
communication failure does not allow the proper warning indicator commands to be sent back to
the IPC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
The scan tool Serial Data Link (SDL) monitor used in this diagnostic is within the body portion of
the scan tool. This requires exiting from the chassis portion of the scan tool to the main menu and
entering into the body portion of the scan tool menu and selecting SDL MONITOR.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > ABS Light > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored > Page 10355
With the SDL monitor (ABS to IPC mode), any message that is being transmitted on the serial data
link can be observed. Refer to Instrument Cluster for further serial data link information. Use the
Lamp Test function of the Scan Tool in order to turn the indicator on while looking for an
intermittent malfunction in the ABS warning indicator circuitry.
Thoroughly inspect any circuitry that may cause the intermittent complaint for the following
conditions: ^
Backed out terminals
^ Improper mating
^ Broken locks
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals
^ Poor terminal-to-wiring connections
^ Physical damage to the wiring harness
IMPORTANT: Zero the J 39200 test leads before making any resistance measurements. Refer to
the J 39200 user's manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > ABS Light > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored > Page 10356
ABS Light: Testing and Inspection ABS Warning Lamp OFF Constantly, No DTC's Stored
ABS Indicator Off No DTC Set Wiring Diagram
ABS Indicator Off No DTC Set
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Two-way serial communication is sent back and forth between the EBCM and the IPC. A message
from the IPC is sent to the EBCM within seven seconds after ABS initialization. A serial
communication failure does not allow the proper warning indicator commands to be sent back to
the IPC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
The following conditions may cause an intermittent malfunction: ^
A poor connection
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > ABS Light > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > ABS Warning Lamp Always ON, No DTC's Stored > Page 10357
^ Rubbed-through wire insulation
^ A broken wire inside the insulation
The scan tool Serial Data Link (SDL) monitor used in this diagnostic is within the body portion of
the scan tool. This requires exiting from the chassis portion of the scan tool to the main menu and
entering into the body portion of the scan tool menu and selecting SDL MONITOR.
With the SDL monitor (ABS to IPC mode), any message that is being transmitted on the serial data
link can be observed, refer to Instrument Cluster for further serial data link information.
Use the Lamp Test function of the Scan Tool in order to turn the indicator on while looking for an
intermittent malfunction in the ABS warning indicator circuitry.
Thoroughly inspect any circuitry that may cause the intermittent complaint for the following
conditions: ^
Backed out terminals
^ Improper mating
^ Broken locks
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals
^ Poor terminal-to-wiring connections
^ Physical damage to the wiring harness
IMPORTANT: Zero the J 39200 test leads before making any resistance measurements. Refer to
the J 39200 user's manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Locations
Convenience Center
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Information
Audible Warning Device: Description and Operation General Information
The Audible Wainings System is controlled by the Multi-Function Alarm Module and sounds a
chime to bring attention to several conditions. These conditions are:
1. Key is in the Ignition Cylinder (with door open). 2. Seat Belt is not fastened. 3. Headlights are on
(with door open).
The Multi-Function Alarm Module also controls a battery run down protection feature.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Information > Page 10363
Audible Warning Device: Description and Operation Fasten Belts Chime
With the Ignition Switch in "RUN," "BULB TEST" or START," voltage is applied through the ALARM
Fuse to Connectorector C1 terminal "M" of the Multi-Function Alarm Module. With the LH front seat
belt unbuckled, Connectorector C1 terminal "K" of the Multi-Function Alarm Module is grounded
through the Seat Belt Switch. The fasten belts chime sounds for 4 to 8 seconds.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Information > Page 10364
Audible Warning Device: Description and Operation Fasten Belts Indicator
The Fasten Belts Indicator is controlled by the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Information > Page 10365
Audible Warning Device: Description and Operation Key-In-Ignition Chime
Voltage is applied at all times to Connector C2 terminal D of the Multi-Function Alarm Module
through the INT LAMP Fuse. When the key is in the ignition and LH front door is open, Connector
C1 terminal H and terminal E of the Multi-Function Alarm Module are grounded. This sounds the
chime.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Information > Page 10366
Audible Warning Device: Description and Operation
General Information
The Audible Wainings System is controlled by the Multi-Function Alarm Module and sounds a
chime to bring attention to several conditions. These conditions are:
1. Key is in the Ignition Cylinder (with door open). 2. Seat Belt is not fastened. 3. Headlights are on
(with door open).
The Multi-Function Alarm Module also controls a battery run down protection feature.
Fasten Belts Chime
With the Ignition Switch in "RUN," "BULB TEST" or START," voltage is applied through the ALARM
Fuse to Connectorector C1 terminal "M" of the Multi-Function Alarm Module. With the LH front seat
belt unbuckled, Connectorector C1 terminal "K" of the Multi-Function Alarm Module is grounded
through the Seat Belt Switch. The fasten belts chime sounds for 4 to 8 seconds.
Fasten Belts Indicator
The Fasten Belts Indicator is controlled by the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC).
Key-In-Ignition Chime
Voltage is applied at all times to Connector C2 terminal D of the Multi-Function Alarm Module
through the INT LAMP Fuse. When the key is in the ignition and LH front door is open, Connector
C1 terminal H and terminal E of the Multi-Function Alarm Module are grounded. This sounds the
chime.
Lamps-ON Chime
The Multi-Function Alarm Module sounds the Lamps-on Chime when the following three conditions
are met:
1. The Battery voltage at the Multi-Function Alarm Module connector C1 terminal D indicates that
the Parklamps or Headlamps are on. 2. 0 volts at the Multi-Function Alarm Module connector C1
terminal M indicates that the Ignition Switch is in OFF, ACCY, or LOCK. 3. Ground at the
Multi-Function Alarm Module connector C1 terminal H indicates that the LH Front Door is open.
Battery Run Down Protection
The Battery Run Down Protection Feature is made up of two independent features: The
Inadvertent Power Control, and the Courtesy Lamps Control.
Inadvertent Power Control The Inadvertent Power Control output of the Multi-Function Alarm
Module supplies voltage to these lamps: Courtesy, Header, rear Quarter, Vanity Mirror, Reading,
I/P Compartment and Luggage Compartment. For more information, refer to Interior Lights.
Courtesy Lamps Control The Courtesy Lamps Control output of the Multi-Function Alarm Module
supplies ground to the Courtesy and Dome lamps. For more information, refer to Interior Lights.
Power Output Diagnostic Mode
There is a Power Output Diagnostic Mode in the Multi-Function Alarm Module that can be used to
run a quick check on the operation of the Parasitic Power Control, the Courtesy Lights Control and
the Inadvertent Power Control outputs. It is activated after all of the following actions have been
performed:
^ Set Park Brake
^ Close all doors
^ Turn Ignition Switch to RUN and, before 15 seconds pass, perform these steps. Open the RH front door
- Cycle the Headlamp Switch from OFF to PARK three times.
During normal operations (no trouble found), the Multi-Function Alarm Module will flash the interior
lamps until the ignition is turned off. In the event an internal short is found in the Multi-Function
Alarm Module, the module will chime as follows:
^ One chime every three seconds - Inadvertent output failure
^ Two chimes every three seconds - Courtesy output failure
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures
Audible Warning Device: Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures
System Check
System Diagnosis - Audible Warning System
^ Perform the System Check and refer to the Symptom Table for the appropriate diagnostic
procedures.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > Page 10369
Audible Warning Device: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Chart #1 All Warning Chimes Are Inoperative
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > Page 10370
Chart #2 Key-In-Ignition Chime Does Not Operate Properly (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > Page 10371
Chart #2 Key-In-Ignition Chime Does Not Operate Properly (Part 2 Of 2)
Chart #3 Fasten Belts Chime Does Not Operate Properly (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > Page 10372
Chart #3 Fasten Belts Chime Does Not Operate Properly (Part 2 Of 2)
Troubleshooting Hints - Audible Warning System
PERFORM BEFORE BEGINNING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
NOTE: The Multi-Function Alarm Module will go to sleep 3 or 20 minutes after key off depending if
the vehicle has travelled over 24 km (15 miles). Until the Multi-Function Alarm Module goes to
sleep, it will draw 60-80ma. Once the Multi-Function Alarm Module goes to sleep, the amperage
draw will drop to 3-15 ma.
^ For diagnosis of the Fasten Belts Indicator, refer to Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)
Microprocessor.
^ Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside of the insulation which could cause system
failure but prove good in a continuity/voltage check (refer to General Troubleshooting Procedures
under Diagrams/Diagnostic Aids).
^ Check for proper installation of after market electronic equipment which may affect the integrity of
other systems (refer to General Troubleshooting Procedures under Diagrams/Diagnostic Aids).
^ Refer to System Diagnosis.
^ Check the ALARM Fuse, INSTH/PCM Fuse, and the INT LAMP Fuse by visual inspection.
^ The Lights-On chime is inoperative, check for a poor connection at the Convenience Center
connector C1 terminal D or an open in circuit 32. If OK, replace the Multi-Function Alarm Module,
refer to Multi-Function Alarm Assembly.
^ The Fasten Belts chime does not operate, check for a short to battery or an open in circuit 238 or
circuit 150. If OK, replace the Multi-Function Alarm Module, refer to Multi-Function Alarm
Assembly.
^ The Multi-Function Alarm Module chimes one time every three seconds during Power Output
Diagnostic Mode, replace the Multi-Function Alarm Module, refer to Multi-Function Alarm
Assembly.
^ The Multi-Function Alarm Module chimes two times every three seconds during the Power Output
Diagnostic Mode, replace the Multi-Function Alarm Module, refer to Multi-Function Alarm
Assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > Page 10373
^ The Multi-Function Alarm Module chimes three times every three seconds during Power Output
Diagnostic Mode, replace the Multi-Function Alarm Module, refer to Multi-Function Alarm
Assembly.
^ Interior Lamps Fuse opens continuously, remove the Multi-Function Alarm Module connector C2
and check for short to ground in circuits 340, 1732, and 1733. If OK, replace the Multi-Function
Alarm Module, refer to Multi-Function Alarm Assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Component Locations
At the right front of the passenger compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10378
Convenience Center
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10381
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10382
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10383
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10384
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10385
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10386
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device Control
Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10387
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Audible Warning Device Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
Refer to Diagrams under Audible Warning Device.
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Audible Warning Device Control Module: Testing and Inspection
Refer to Audible Warning Device for all Audible Warning System diagnostic information.
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Audible Warning Device Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the left sound insulator. 3. Remove the
retaining nuts (4) from the alarm module (5). 4. Remove the multifunction alarm assembly (5) from
the convenience center.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the multifunction alarm assembly (5) to the convenience center.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the nuts (4) to the alarm module (5).
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 6 N-m (53 lb in).
3. Install the left sound insulator. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Brake Warning Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10427
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10441
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10442
Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10443
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10444
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10445
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10446
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10447
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10448
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10449
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10450
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Information > Diagrams > Page 10451
Brake Warning Indicator: Description and Operation
The standard brake system uses a single red BRAKE warning light. The light is located in the
instrument panel cluster. When the ignition switch is in the START position, the BRAKE warning
light should glow and turn off when the ignition switch returns the RUN position.
The following conditions will activate the BRAKE light:
^ The parking brake is applied. The light should be on whenever the parking brake is applied and
the ignition switch is on.
^ The fluid level is low. A low fluid level in the master cylinder will turn the BRAKE light on.
For electrical diagnosis on the BRAKE warning system, refer to Brake Lamp (Warning Indicator).
Antilock Brake System
The antilock brake system uses two indicator lamps, a red BRAKE warning lamp and an amber
ANTILOCK lamp. Both of the lamps are located in the instrument panel cluster. The lamps should
activate under the following normal conditions:
^ When the ignition is turned to the RUN position, prior to starting the engine, the amber
ANTILOCK lamp should fun ON.
^ As the engine is cranked, the red BRAKE lamp and the amber ANTILOCK lamp should come
ON.
^ When the engine is started, both lamps should be OFF.
For further information regarding the warning lamp operation for the Antilock brake system, refer to
ABS Light.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Cigarette Lighter: > 99-08-45-005 > Nov > 99 > Accessory
Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Cigarette Lighter: Customer Interest Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Cigarette Lighter: > 99-08-45-005 > Nov > 99
> Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Cigarette Lighter: All Technical Service Bulletins Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 10465
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 10466
Cigar Lighter
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 10467
Cigarette Lighter: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the cluster trim plate. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the base from
the retainer (4). 4. Turn the base counterclockwise. 5. Remove the lighter housing (3) from the trim
plate (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the lighter housing (3) to the trim plate (1). 2. Install the base to the retainer (4). 3.
Connect the electrical connector. 4. Install the instrument panel cluster trim plate.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dash Board / Instrument Panel <-->
[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. 2. Turn the
ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Remove the key from the ignition switch. 4. Remove the left
IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
IMPORTANT: With the AIR BAG Fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, The
AIR BAG warning lamp illuminates. This is normal operation, and does not indicate an SIR system
malfunction.
Description
5. Remove the AIR BAG Fuse from the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console.
6. Remove the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 7. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the driver yellow 2-way
connector located near the base of the steering column.
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[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 10473
8. Disconnect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
9. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
10. Disconnect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering
column.
Enabling the SIR System
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Connect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dash Board / Instrument Panel <-->
[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 10474
3. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
4. Connect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
5. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the driver yellow 2-way connector located
near the base of the steering column. 6. Install the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dash Board / Instrument Panel <-->
[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 10475
Description
7. Install the AIR BAG fuse to the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 8. Install the left IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 9. Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
9.1. The AIR BAG warning lamp will flash seven times.
9.2. The AIR BAG warning lamp will then turn OFF.
10. Perform the SIR Diagnostic System Check if the AIR BAG warning lamp does not operate as
described.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dash Board / Instrument Panel <-->
[Dashboard / Instrument Panel] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 10476
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the SIR system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) maintains a reserve energy supply.
The reserve energy supply provides deployment power for the air bags. Deployment power is
available for as much as 10 minutes after disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following
methods:
^ You turn OFF the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the SDM.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR system prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply power.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dimmer Switch > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
Dimmer Switch: Technical Service Bulletins IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-42-009
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Setting of I/P Dimmer Control to View PRNDL Display with Automatic Headlamp
Control
Models: 2000 and Prior All Passenger Cars and Trucks With Automatic Headlamp Control and
Electronic PRNDL Display
Under certain conditions, if the instrument panel dimmer control is turned relatively low, the PRNDL
will not be visible until the automatic headlamp control turns the headlamps off and the daytime
running lamps (DRL) are turned back on. Such a condition may be if the vehicle is first started in an
environment where the headlamp control turns on the headlamps and then the vehicle is driven out
into a brighter environment (for example, when a vehicle is backed out of a dark garage into the
bright sunlight).
This condition is normal and any repair attempt will not be successful. Demonstrate this condition
to the customer using the service lane and then turn the instrument panel dimmer control to a
higher setting. This will enable the driver to see the PRNDL display
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dimmer Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations
Dimmer Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10483
Component Location Views
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Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10484
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dimmer Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10485
Dimmer Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
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Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10486
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dimmer Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10487
Dimmer Switch: Diagrams
Panel Dimmer Switch
Lamp Dimmer Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dimmer Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10488
Dimmer Switch: Testing and Inspection
For electrical diagnosis of the column mounted dimmer switch system, refer to ELECTRICAL
DIAGNOSIS.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Component Locations
Door Switch: Component Locations
Door Jamb Switch, LH Front
Component Location Views
At the left front door jamb (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Component Locations > Page 10493
Component Location Views
At the left rear door (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Front
At the right front door jamb (left switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Rear
At the right rear door jamb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Component Locations > Page 10494
Door Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Component Locations > Page 10495
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Component Locations > Page 10496
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Component Locations > Page 10497
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Component Locations > Page 10498
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Page 10499
Door Switch: Diagrams
LF Door Jamb Switch
LR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Page 10500
RF Door Jamb Switch
RF Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Page 10501
RR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 10506
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 10507
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 10508
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 10509
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 10510
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 10511
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier <-->
[Instrument Cluster / Carrier] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. 2. Turn the
ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Remove the key from the ignition switch. 4. Remove the left
IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
IMPORTANT: With the AIR BAG Fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, The
AIR BAG warning lamp illuminates. This is normal operation, and does not indicate an SIR system
malfunction.
Description
5. Remove the AIR BAG Fuse from the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Console.
6. Remove the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 7. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the driver yellow 2-way
connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier <-->
[Instrument Cluster / Carrier] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 10517
8. Disconnect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
9. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
10. Disconnect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering
column.
Enabling the SIR System
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Connect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier <-->
[Instrument Cluster / Carrier] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 10518
3. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the passenger yellow 2-way connector
located near the base of the steering column.
4. Connect the driver yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.
5. Install the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) to the driver yellow 2-way connector located
near the base of the steering column. 6. Install the left sound insulator. Refer to Sound Insulators in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier <-->
[Instrument Cluster / Carrier] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 10519
Description
7. Install the AIR BAG fuse to the fuse block. Refer to Fuse Block in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 8. Install the left IP end cap. Refer to IP End Caps in Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Console. 9. Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
9.1. The AIR BAG warning lamp will flash seven times.
9.2. The AIR BAG warning lamp will then turn OFF.
10. Perform the SIR Diagnostic System Check if the AIR BAG warning lamp does not operate as
described.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier <-->
[Instrument Cluster / Carrier] > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag
Disarming and Arming > Page 10520
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the SIR system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) maintains a reserve energy supply.
The reserve energy supply provides deployment power for the air bags. Deployment power is
available for as much as 10 minutes after disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following
methods:
^ You turn OFF the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the SDM.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR system prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply power.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier <-->
[Instrument Cluster / Carrier] > Instrument Panel Circuit Board > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instrument Panel Cluster - Revised Replacement
Instrument Panel Circuit Board: Technical Service Bulletins Instrument Panel Cluster - Revised
Replacement
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-009
Date: June, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Replacement
Models: 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier with 2.3L Engine (VIN D - RP0 LD2) 1995 Pontiac Sunfire with
2.3L Engine (VIN D - RP0 LD2) 1996-1999 Chevrolet Cavalier 1996-1999 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to add a step to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Replacement
procedure in the Instrument Panel and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please add this
information to your Service Manual.
The following information has been updated within SI2000. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
It is necessary to reprogram the theft deterrent system after IPC replacement. The final step of the
installation procedure of the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Replacement procedure should read
"Disengage the theft deterrent tamper mode. Refer to PASSLOCK Changing - Components
Description in Theft Deterrent."
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Key Reminder Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection
For diagnosis of the system, Refer to ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Odometer > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Odometer: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
Odometer: Customer Interest Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-012
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Trip Odometer Resets (Install Diode)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier with Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) fuel option
Condition Some customers may comment that the trip odometer resets to zero.
Cause The CNG vehicle's fuel system electrical components back feed, with 12 volts, Circuit #
1020 for several seconds after key off. This voltage disrupts communication between the PCM and
the I/P cluster and the trip odometer mileage information is lost before it is stored in the memory of
the PCM.
Correction Install the diode assembly; P/N 52369504, using the following procedure:
1. Remove the secondary lock (comb) from the diode assembly and save for reuse.
2. Find the grey 10 way connector (1), located between the radiator and where the radiator hose
attaches to the engine.
3. Separate the grey 10 way connector and remove the comb from the connector top half (the one
with the female terminals).
4. Using the terminal removal tool, GM 12094429, remove the pink wire from cavity C of the grey
10 way connector.
5. Insert the pink wire, removed in the previous step, into cavity B of the diode assembly connector
and reinstall the comb.
6. Insert the pink wire from cavity C of the diode assembly into cavity C of the 10 way connector
and reinstall the comb.
7. Reconnect both halves of the 10 way connector.
8. Attach the diode assembly to the side of the 10 way connector, using a plastic tie strap or tape.
9. Remove the ground stud nut from the top forward transaxle to the engine mounting bolt and slip
the diode assembly wire eyelet over the stud and reinstall the nut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Odometer > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Odometer: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
> Page 10536
Tighten Tighten to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number Description
52369504 Diode Assembly, Ignition Wiring
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6360 Diode Assembly, Ignition 0.3 hr
Wiring - Install
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Odometer > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Odometer: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer Resets to Zero
Odometer: All Technical Service Bulletins Trip Odometer - Resets to Zero
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-012
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Trip Odometer Resets (Install Diode)
Models: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier with Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) fuel option
Condition Some customers may comment that the trip odometer resets to zero.
Cause The CNG vehicle's fuel system electrical components back feed, with 12 volts, Circuit #
1020 for several seconds after key off. This voltage disrupts communication between the PCM and
the I/P cluster and the trip odometer mileage information is lost before it is stored in the memory of
the PCM.
Correction Install the diode assembly; P/N 52369504, using the following procedure:
1. Remove the secondary lock (comb) from the diode assembly and save for reuse.
2. Find the grey 10 way connector (1), located between the radiator and where the radiator hose
attaches to the engine.
3. Separate the grey 10 way connector and remove the comb from the connector top half (the one
with the female terminals).
4. Using the terminal removal tool, GM 12094429, remove the pink wire from cavity C of the grey
10 way connector.
5. Insert the pink wire, removed in the previous step, into cavity B of the diode assembly connector
and reinstall the comb.
6. Insert the pink wire from cavity C of the diode assembly into cavity C of the 10 way connector
and reinstall the comb.
7. Reconnect both halves of the 10 way connector.
8. Attach the diode assembly to the side of the 10 way connector, using a plastic tie strap or tape.
9. Remove the ground stud nut from the top forward transaxle to the engine mounting bolt and slip
the diode assembly wire eyelet over the stud and reinstall the nut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Odometer > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Odometer: > 99-08-49-012 > Sep > 99 > Trip Odometer Resets to Zero > Page 10542
Tighten Tighten to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number Description
52369504 Diode Assembly, Ignition Wiring
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6360 Diode Assembly, Ignition 0.3 hr
Wiring - Install
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Sender > Component
Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Sender > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10546
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Sender > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10547
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Parking Brake Warning Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
Parking Brake Switch Location
Left hand center of console.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Parking Brake Warning Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10552
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Component Locations
At the right front of the passenger compartment
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page
10558
Convenience Center
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10561
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10562
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10563
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10564
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10565
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10566
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10567
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10568
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Instructions > Page 10582
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10583
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10584
Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10585
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10586
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Relays and Modules - Instrument
Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10587
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10588
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
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Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10589
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10590
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10591
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 10592
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
Refer to Diagrams under Audible Warning Device.
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Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 10593
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Testing and Inspection
Refer to Audible Warning Device for all Audible Warning System diagnostic information.
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Panel > Audible Warning Device Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 10594
Audible Warning Device Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the left sound insulator. 3. Remove the
retaining nuts (4) from the alarm module (5). 4. Remove the multifunction alarm assembly (5) from
the convenience center.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the multifunction alarm assembly (5) to the convenience center.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the nuts (4) to the alarm module (5).
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 6 N-m (53 lb in).
3. Install the left sound insulator. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument
Panel > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
Dimmer Switch: Technical Service Bulletins IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-42-009
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Setting of I/P Dimmer Control to View PRNDL Display with Automatic Headlamp
Control
Models: 2000 and Prior All Passenger Cars and Trucks With Automatic Headlamp Control and
Electronic PRNDL Display
Under certain conditions, if the instrument panel dimmer control is turned relatively low, the PRNDL
will not be visible until the automatic headlamp control turns the headlamps off and the daytime
running lamps (DRL) are turned back on. Such a condition may be if the vehicle is first started in an
environment where the headlamp control turns on the headlamps and then the vehicle is driven out
into a brighter environment (for example, when a vehicle is backed out of a dark garage into the
bright sunlight).
This condition is normal and any repair attempt will not be successful. Demonstrate this condition
to the customer using the service lane and then turn the instrument panel dimmer control to a
higher setting. This will enable the driver to see the PRNDL display
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Panel > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Dimmer Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Panel > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10602
Component Location Views
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Panel > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10603
Component Location Views
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Panel > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10604
Dimmer Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
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Panel > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10605
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument
Panel > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10606
Dimmer Switch: Diagrams
Panel Dimmer Switch
Lamp Dimmer Module
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Panel > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10607
Dimmer Switch: Testing and Inspection
For electrical diagnosis of the column mounted dimmer switch system, refer to ELECTRICAL
DIAGNOSIS.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument
Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Door Switch: Component Locations
Door Jamb Switch, LH Front
Component Location Views
At the left front door jamb (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
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Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10612
Component Location Views
At the left rear door (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Front
At the right front door jamb (left switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Rear
At the right rear door jamb
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Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10613
Door Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
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Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10614
Component Location Views
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Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10615
Component Location Views
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Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10616
Component Location Views
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Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10617
Component Location Views
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Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10618
Door Switch: Diagrams
LF Door Jamb Switch
LR Door Jamb Switch
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Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10619
RF Door Jamb Switch
RF Door Jamb Switch
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Panel > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10620
RR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument
Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement
Procedure
Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
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Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement
Procedure > Page 10625
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Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement
Procedure > Page 10626
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Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement
Procedure > Page 10627
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Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement
Procedure > Page 10628
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Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement
Procedure > Page 10629
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Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement
Procedure > Page 10630
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument
Panel > Key Reminder Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection
For diagnosis of the system, Refer to ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument
Panel > Parking Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
Parking Brake Switch Location
Left hand center of console.
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Panel > Parking Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10638
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Speedometer Head > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - Speedometer Accuracy Information
Speedometer Head: Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Speedometer Accuracy Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-49-011B
Date: September 05, 2008
Subject: Information On Speedometer Accuracy
Models: 1997-1999 GM Passenger Cars And Trucks 2004-2009 Cadillac XLR 2005-2009
Chevrolet Corvette 2007-2009 GMC Acadia
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the GMC Acadia. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
08-08-49-011A (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The speedometer used on most GM vehicles are of the Air-Core design. This is a moving needle
operated by a magnetic coil. Because there is no direct mechanical linkage, there is some variation
in accuracy that cannot be eliminated.
Digital readout devices, such as some speedometer displays and Head-Up Displays (HUD), are
direct readouts of the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and their accuracy is much greater. Tire size,
tread life and inflation may cause some variation in the readings. In addition, the Tech 2(R) reads
the VSS directly and is quite accurate.
Questions on speedometer accuracy can usually be resolved by comparing the speedometer
reading to the Tech 2 while driving. The table shown above lists allowable speedometer variations.
Any Air-Core speedometer that reads within these limits should not be returned for service.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Traction Control Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set
Traction Control Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set
ETS Off Indicator On No DTCs Set Wiring Diagram
ETS Off Indicator On No DTCs Set
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Two-way serial communication is sent back and forth between the EBCM and the IPC. A message
from the IPC is sent to the EBCM within seven seconds after ABS initialization. A serial
communication failure does not allow the proper warning indicator commands to be sent back to
the IPC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
The ETS OFF indicator will be ON and the Enhanced Traction System will be disabled whenever
the scan tool is connected to the DLC with the ignition switch is in the RUN position.
The scan tool Serial Data Link (SDL) monitor used in this diagnostic is within the body portion of
the scan tool. This requires exiting from the chassis
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Traction Control Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set > Page 10647
portion of the scan tool to the main menu and entering into the body portion of the scan tool menu
and selecting SDL MONITOR.
With the SDL monitor (ABS to IPC mode), any message that is being transmitted on the serial data
link can be observed. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster for further serial data link information. Use
the Lamp Test function of the Scan Tool in order to turn the indicator on while looking for an
intermittent malfunction in the ETS OFF warning indicator circuitry.
Thoroughly inspect any circuitry that may cause the intermittent complaint for the following
conditions: ^
Backed out terminals
^ Improper mating
^ Broken locks
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals
^ Poor terminal-to-wiring connections
^ Physical damage to the wiring harness
IMPORTANT: Zero the J 39200 test leads before making any resistance measurements. Refer to
the J 39200 user's manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Traction Control Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set > Page 10648
Traction Control Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection ETS Off Indicator OFF No DTCS Set
ETS Off Indicator Off No DTCs Set Wiring Diagram
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Traction Control Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > ETS Off Indicator ON With No DTCS Set > Page 10649
ETS Off Indicator Off No DTCs Set
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Two-way serial communication is sent back and forth between the EBCM\A and the IPC. A
message from the IPC is sent to the EBCM within seven seconds after ABS initialization. A serial
communication failure does not allow the proper warning indicator commands to be sent back to
the IPC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
The scan tool Serial Data Link (SDL) monitor used in this diagnostic is within the body portion of
the scan tool. This requires exiting from the chassis portion of the scan tool to the main menu and
entering into the body portion of the scan tool menu and selecting SDL MONITOR.
With the SDL monitor (ABS to IPC mode), any message that is being transmitted on the serial data
link can be observed. Refer to Instrument Panel luster for further serial data link information. The
frequency of the malfunction can be checked by using the ENHANCED DIAGNOSTIC function of
the scan tool, as described in "Enhanced Diagnostics".
The following conditions may cause an intermittent malfunction: ^
A poor connection
^ Rubbed-through wire insulation
^ A broken wire inside the insulation
Use the Lamp Test function of the Scan Tool in order to turn the indicator on while looking for an
intermittent malfunction in the ETS OFF warning indicator circuitry.
Thoroughly inspect any circuitry that may cause the intermittent complaint for the following
conditions: ^
Backed out terminals
^ Improper mating
^ Broken locks
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals
^ Poor terminal-to-wiring connections
^ Physical damage to the wiring harness
IMPORTANT: Zero the J 39200 test leads before making any resistance measurements. Refer to
the J 39200 user's manual.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - Reduced PRNDL Display Visibility
Transmission Shift Position Indicator Lamp: Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Reduced
PRNDL Display Visibility
Bulletin No.: 02-08-42-004A
Date: March 30, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: PRNDL Display Reduced Visibility For Approximately One Minute
Models: 2007 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
with Automatic Headlamp Control and Vacuum Fluorescent PRNDL Indicator Instrument Panel
Cluster
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to include additional models and model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-08-42-0004 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
After backing the vehicle out of a garage or dark environment into a daylight environment, the
PRNDL display has reduced visibility for approximately one minute.
While the vehicle is parked in a dark environment, the sensor for the automatic headlamp/driving
lamps senses that it is dark. When the key is turned to the run/start position, the automatic
headlamp module will turn all driving lamps, the instrument panel cluster and PRNDL display ON in
the night-time mode. The night-time mode intensity of the instrument panel lamps and PRNDL
display is controlled by the automatic headlamp module and can be dimmed further by the
customer using the dimming control of the headlamp switch.
When the customer then moves the vehicle from the dark environment into the bright sunlight, it will
take approximately one minute before the headlamp control module recognizes this as true daylight
and not just a bright overhead street lamp shining on the sensor. The headlamp control module will
then turn the headlamps off and restore the instrument panel and PRNDL display to full brilliance.
Without the time delay, the automatic headlamp control module would switch to the night mode
(turn on all driving lamps, instrument panel lamps and PRNDL display would dim) each time the
vehicle was driven under an overpass or other darkened environment.
This is a normal condition and no repair should be attempted.
Ensure the instrument panel backlighting control is in the full bright position. This will help alleviate
the condition. You may demonstrate to the customer what happens by placing a repair order over
the automatic headlamp control light sensor, which will cause the automatic headlamp control
module to switch to the night mode in approximately one minute. All driving lamps will come ON,
the instrument panel backlight will be dim, and the PRNDL display will also dim to the night setting
in conjunction with the position of the headlamp switch dimming control. Demonstrate to the
customer the variance in the instrument panel backlighting and PRNDL display while adjusting the
headlamp switch dimming control to both ends of its allowable range. Advise the customer to keep
the headlight switch dimming control in the highest position to allow viewing of the PRNDL display
in a bright environment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Backup Lamp Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Backup Lamp Switch: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Backup Lamp Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Page 10659
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Backup Lamp Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Page 10660
Backup Lamp Switch (Manual)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement
Brake Lamp: Technical Service Bulletins Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-08-42-001H
Date: January 05, 2011
Subject: Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement Guidelines
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-08-42-001G (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The following information is being provided to better define the causes of condensation in exterior
lamps and includes guidelines for determining the difference between a lamp with a normal
atmospheric condition (condensation) and a lamp with a water leak.
Some exterior lamps, such as cornering, turn signal, backup, headlamps or tail lamps may exhibit
very small droplets of water, a fine mist or white fog (condensation) on the inside of the lamp lens.
This may be more noticeable on lamps with "multi-lens" designs and may be normal during certain
weather conditions.
Condensation occurs when the air inside the lamp assembly, through atmospheric changes,
reaches the "dew point". When this takes place, the moisture in the air within the lamp assembly
condenses, creating a fine mist or white fog on the inside surface of the lamp lens.
Most exterior lamps on General Motors vehicles use a vented design and feature a replaceable
bulb assembly. They are designed to remove any accumulated moisture vapor by expelling it
through a vent system. The vent system operates at all times, however, it is most effective when
the lamps are ON or when the vehicle is in motion. Depending on the size, shape and location of
the lamp on the vehicle, and the atmospheric conditions occurring, the amount of time required to
clear the lamp may vary from 2 to 6 hours.
Completely sealed headlamp assemblies (sealed beams) are still used on a limited number of
models being manufactured today. These lamps require the replacement of the complete lamp
assembly if a bulb filament burns out.
Condensation 2006 TrailBlazer Shown
A Fine Mist or White Fog on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens Occurring After a Period of High
Humidity
- May be located primarily in the lens corners (near the vents) and SHOULD NOT cover more than
half the lens surface.
- The condition should clear of moisture when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when
the vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a SIMILAR
performance.
If the above conditions are noted, the customer should be advised that replacement of a lamp
assembly may not correct this condition.
Water Leak New Style Pickup Shown
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement > Page 10665
Numerous & Various Size Drops of Water Collecting on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens After
the Vehicle Has Been Exposed to Rain or a Car Washing Environment
- A condition that covers more than half the surface of the lamp lens.
- An accumulation of water in the bottom of the lamp assembly.
- A condition that WON'T clear when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when the
vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a different
performance.
Any of the above conditions would indicate the need to service the lens or lamp assembly.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10668
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Brake Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10671
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10672
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10673
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10674
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10675
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10676
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10677
Brake Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10678
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10679
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10680
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Brake Lamp: Connector Views
LH Tail/Stop/Turn Lamp
RH Tail/Stop/Turn Lamp
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Turn/Hazard/Front Marker/Front Park
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Brake Switch And Cruise Control Brake Switch
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Brake Light Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Brake Light Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10736
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10739
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10740
Brake Light Switch: Connector Views
Brake Switch (C1)
Brake Switch (C2)
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Information and Instructions > Page 10741
Turn/Hazard/Front Marker/Front Park
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Brake Light Switch: Adjustments
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the driver side sound insulator. 2. Remove the electrical connection. 3. Disconnect the
brake switch retainer (2), grasping and turning 90 degrees counter clockwise and pulling the switch
towards the rear of the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Insert the stop lamp switch (2) into the retainer until the switch body seats on the retainer.
2. Pull the brake pedal (3) upward against the internal pedal stop. 3. For the diagnosis of the stop
light circuit, refer to Electrical Diagnosis. 4. Turn the switch 90 degrees clockwise in order to lock
into position.
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5. Install the electrical connection. 6. Install the drivers side sound insulator.
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Brake Light Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the driver side sound insulator. 2. Remove the electrical connection. 3. Disconnect the
brake switch retainer (2), grasping and turning 90 degrees counter clockwise and pulling towards
the rear of the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Insert the stop lamp switch (2) into the retainer until the switch body seats on the retainer.
2. Pull the brake pedal (3) upward against the internal pedal stop.
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^ For the diagnosis of the stop light circuit, refer to Electrical Diagnosis.
^ For adjustment of the stop lamp, refer to Stop Lamp Adjustment.
3. Turn the switch 90 degrees clockwise in order to lock into position. 4. Install the electrical
connection. 5. Install the drivers side sound insulator.
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Component Locations
Component Location Views
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Component Locations > Page 10750
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10782
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10783
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10784
Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Connector Views
High Mounted Stoplamp Assembly (C1)
High Mounted Stoplamp Assembly (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10785
High Mounted Stoplamp Assembly (W/T43)
High Mounted Stoplamp Assembly (W/T43)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10786
High Mounted Stop/Stop-Turn
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 10787
Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the rear window panel trim. 2. From the rear compartment, push up on the high mount
stoplamp ratchet mechanism. 3. Slide the high mount stoplamp (1) forward. 4. Disconnect the high
mount stoplamp wire harness connector. 5. Remove the high mount stoplamp (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the high mount stoplamp wire harness connector. 2. Use the following procedure in
order to install the high mount stoplamp (1):
2.1. Insert the tabs into the slots at the rear window shelf.
2.2. Push forward on the high mount stoplamp until the high mount stoplamp is secure against the
back window.
2.3. Install the rear window panel trim.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Ash Tray Lamp > Component Information >
Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Ash Tray Lamp > Component Information >
Locations > Page 10792
Ashtray Lamp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Door Lamp > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Door Lamp: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. From the rear of the dome lamp lens, insert a flat bladed tool (1) between the dome lamp lens
and the headlining trim finish panel (2). 2. Use the flat bladed tool in order to push the tab at the
rear of the dome lamp lens forward. Disengage the tab from the headlining trim finish panel. 3. Pull
the dome lamp lens rearward in order to disengage the 2 tabs at the front of the dome lamp lens.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Insert the 2 forward tabs on the dome lamp lens into the appropriate holes in the headlining trim
finish panel (2). 2. Push at the rear of the dome lamp lens until the rear tab is fully seated in the
headlining trim finish panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Glove Box Lamp > Component Information >
Locations
Glove Box Lamp: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Glove Box Lamp > Component Information >
Locations > Page 10799
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Glove Box Lamp > Component Information >
Locations > Page 10800
IP Compartment Lamp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Interior Light Switch > Component Information >
Locations > LH
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Interior Light Switch > Component Information >
Locations > LH > Page 10805
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Interior Light Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Courtesy/Reading Lamp
Interior Light Switch: Diagrams Courtesy/Reading Lamp
LH Courtesy/Reading Lamp
RH Courtesy/Reading Lamp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Interior Light Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Courtesy/Reading Lamp > Page 10808
Interior Light Switch: Diagrams Courtesy/Reading Lamp Switch
LH Courtesy/Reading Lamp Switch
RH Courtesy/Reading Lamp Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Daytime Running Lamp Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Locations
DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP RELAY
Front View Of Fuse Block
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Daytime Running Lamp Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10813
Component Location Views
The Daytime Running Lamp Relay is located in the Left Fuse block. The Left Fuse Block is located
behind lower LH side of Instrument Panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
Dimmer Switch: Technical Service Bulletins IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-42-009
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Setting of I/P Dimmer Control to View PRNDL Display with Automatic Headlamp
Control
Models: 2000 and Prior All Passenger Cars and Trucks With Automatic Headlamp Control and
Electronic PRNDL Display
Under certain conditions, if the instrument panel dimmer control is turned relatively low, the PRNDL
will not be visible until the automatic headlamp control turns the headlamps off and the daytime
running lamps (DRL) are turned back on. Such a condition may be if the vehicle is first started in an
environment where the headlamp control turns on the headlamps and then the vehicle is driven out
into a brighter environment (for example, when a vehicle is backed out of a dark garage into the
bright sunlight).
This condition is normal and any repair attempt will not be successful. Demonstrate this condition
to the customer using the service lane and then turn the instrument panel dimmer control to a
higher setting. This will enable the driver to see the PRNDL display
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
Dimmer Switch: Component Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10820
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10821
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10822
Dimmer Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10823
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10824
Dimmer Switch: Diagrams
Panel Dimmer Switch
Lamp Dimmer Module
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10825
Dimmer Switch: Testing and Inspection
For electrical diagnosis of the column mounted dimmer switch system, refer to ELECTRICAL
DIAGNOSIS.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Dome Lamp Switch > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Dome Lamp Switch: Service and Repair
Dome Lamp Override Switch Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the headlining trim finish panel. 2. Remove the reading lamp switch tabs from the dome
lamp housing. 3. Remove the reading lamp.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the reading lamp switch to the dome lamp housing. 2. Install the headlining trim finish
panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
Door Switch: Component Locations
Door Jamb Switch, LH Front
Component Location Views
At the left front door jamb (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10834
Component Location Views
At the left rear door (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Front
At the right front door jamb (left switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Rear
At the right rear door jamb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10835
Door Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10836
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10837
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10838
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 10839
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10840
Door Switch: Diagrams
LF Door Jamb Switch
LR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10841
RF Door Jamb Switch
RF Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 10842
RR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Fog Lamp Cut Off Relay
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Fog Lamp Cut Off Relay > Page 10848
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10849
Fog/Driving Lamp Relay: Diagrams
Fog Lamp Cutoff Relay
Fog Lamp Relay
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp > Fog/Driving Lamp Switch > Component
Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp > Fog/Driving Lamp Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10853
Fog Lamp Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Lamps > Hazard Warning Flasher > Component
Information > Locations
Hazard Warning Flasher: Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Lamps > Hazard Warning Flasher > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10858
Brake Switch And Cruise Control Brake Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Lamps > Hazard Warning Flasher > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10859
Turn/Hazard Flasher
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Lamps > Hazard Warning Switch > Component
Information > Locations
Hazard Warning Switch: Locations
Windshield Wiper, Passlock (TM), Turn/Hazard, Cruise Control And Headlamp Connectors
At the left side of the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Lamps > Hazard Warning Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10863
Hazard Warning Switch: Diagrams
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Lamps > Hazard Warning Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10864
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C2)
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Lamps > Hazard Warning Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 10865
Hazard Warning Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Bulb > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Headlamp Bulb: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the upper air intake splash shield. 2. Remove the lamp assembly. 3. Remove the
socket. Complete the following steps.
3.1. Turn the socket.
3.2. Pull out the socket
CAUTION: Halogen bulbs contain gas under pressure. Handling a bulb improperly could cause it to
shatter into flying glass fragments. To help avoid personal injury:
^ Turn off the lamp switch and allow the bulb to cool before changing the bulb. Leave the lamp
switch off until the bulb change is complete.
^ Always wear eye protection when changing a halogen bulb.
^ Handle the bulb only by its base. Avoid touching the glass.
^ Do not drop or scratch the bulb.
^ Keep dirt and moisture off the bulb.
^ Place the used bulb in the new bulb's carton and dispose of it properly.
^ Keep halogen bulbs out of the reach of children
4. Use the following procedure in order to disconnect the electrical connector:
4.1. With one hand, grip the wiring harness end of the bulb that the electrical wires enter. Do not
grip the wires.
Important: Do not grip the bulb glass.
4.2. With the other hand, grip the base of the bulb.
4.3. Carefully pull the bulb base apart from the wiring harness.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the bulb socket to the lamp harness connector. 2. Align the bulb flange notch with the
lamp housing key way. 3. Insert the bulb into the lamp housing. 4. Turn the bulb into the housing
until it is retained. 5. Install the lamp assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Lens > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Lighting - Headlamp Polycarbonate Lens Damage Prevention
Headlamp Lens: Technical Service Bulletins Lighting - Headlamp Polycarbonate Lens Damage
Prevention
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 02-08-42-001D
Date: June 21, 2010
Subject: Headlamp Lens Overheating When Covered and Chemical Damage to Exterior
Polycarbonate Headlamp Lenses
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and to revise the warning statements.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-08-42-001C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The bulletin is being issued to make dealers and customers aware of chemical damage that may
be caused to exterior polycarbonate headlamp lenses. Most late model vehicles have these types
of headlamp lenses. This material is used because of its temperature and high impact resistance.
A variety of chemicals can cause crazing or cracking of the headlamp lens. Headlamp lenses are
very sensitive. Care should be exercised to avoid contact with all exterior headlamp lenses when
treating a vehicle with any type of chemical, such as those recommended for rail dust removal.
Rubbing compound, grease tar and oil removers, tire cleaners, cleaner waxes and even car wash
soaps in too high a concentration may also attribute to this condition. This could result in the need
to replace the entire headlamp housing.
Warning
Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and
lenses.
Also, crazing or deformations of the lens may occur if a shop mat or fender cover is draped over
the fender and covers a portion or all of the headlamp assembly while the DRL or headlamps are
on. This action restricts the amount of heat dissipated by the headlamps.
Warning
Care should be taken to not cover headlamps with shop mats or fender covers if the vehicle is
being serviced with the headlamps or DRL illuminated. Covering an illuminated lamp can cause
excessive heat build up and crazing/deformation of the lens may occur. The degradation of the lens
can be unnoticeable at first and eventually become hairline cracks in the lens. In extreme cases, it
could cause the lens to deform. This damage can also be caused by aftermarket shields that are
often tinted in color.
Once a heat buildup is generated by the headlamp, a degradation of the headlamp lens begins.
This degradation of the lens can be unnoticeable at first and eventually manifest as spider cracks.
In more extreme cases, it will begin to melt the lens of the headlamp.
Notice
Headlamps damaged by chemicals, improper cleaning, or overheating due to being covered are
not covered under the new vehicle warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Switch > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Headlamp Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Horn > Horn Relay > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations
Horn Relay: Component Locations
HORN RELAY
Convenience Center
The Horn Relay is located in the Convenience Center. The Convenience Center is located at the
right front of the passenger compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Horn > Horn Relay > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations > Page 10882
Convenience Center
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Locations >
Component Locations > Page 10887
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
License Plate Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10890
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10891
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10892
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10893
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 10894
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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License Plate Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Information and Instructions > Page 10911
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10912
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Information and Instructions > Page 10913
Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10914
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Information and Instructions > Page 10915
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10916
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10917
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10918
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Information and Instructions > Page 10919
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10920
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 10921
License Plate Lamp: Connector Views
License Lamp
License Lamp
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Information and Instructions > Page 10922
Tail/Rear Marker/License
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10923
License Plate Lamp: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Turn the license plate bulb (1) counter-clockwise. 2. Remove the license plate bulb (1) from the
socket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Align the tabs of the license plate and the socket. 2. Turn the license plate bulb (1) clockwise in
order to install the bulb into the socket.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams
Map Light: Diagrams
LH Courtesy/Reading Lamp
RH Courtesy/Reading Lamp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Marker Lamp > Component Information > Locations > Marker Lamp,
LH Front
Component Location Views
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LH Front > Page 10931
LH Rear Fascia (RH Similar)
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Marker Lamp: Diagrams
RR Side Marker Lamp
LR Side Marker Lamp
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LF Marker Lamp
RF Marker Lamp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Marker Lamp > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Park/Turn Signal/Side Marker Lamp Replacement
Marker Lamp: Service and Repair Park/Turn Signal/Side Marker Lamp Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the headlamp assembly. 2. Remove the socket from the side marker lamp assembly
(3). 3. Remove the side marker lamp retaining nuts. 4. Remove the side marker lamp from the front
fender (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the side marker lamp to the front fender (2).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the side marker lamp retaining nuts.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
3. Install the socket to the side marker lamp assembly (3). 4. Install the headlamp assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Marker Lamp > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Park/Turn Signal/Side Marker Lamp Replacement > Page 10936
Marker Lamp: Service and Repair Side Marker Lamp Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the screw (2). 2. Remove the lamp housing (3). 3. Remove the rear side marker lamp
bulb from the rear side marker lamp (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the rear side marker lamp bulb to the socket. 2. Install the lamp housing (3).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the screw (2).
Tighten Tighten the screw 2 N.m (18 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement
Parking Lamp: Technical Service Bulletins Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and
Replacement
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-08-42-001H
Date: January 05, 2011
Subject: Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement Guidelines
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-08-42-001G (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The following information is being provided to better define the causes of condensation in exterior
lamps and includes guidelines for determining the difference between a lamp with a normal
atmospheric condition (condensation) and a lamp with a water leak.
Some exterior lamps, such as cornering, turn signal, backup, headlamps or tail lamps may exhibit
very small droplets of water, a fine mist or white fog (condensation) on the inside of the lamp lens.
This may be more noticeable on lamps with "multi-lens" designs and may be normal during certain
weather conditions.
Condensation occurs when the air inside the lamp assembly, through atmospheric changes,
reaches the "dew point". When this takes place, the moisture in the air within the lamp assembly
condenses, creating a fine mist or white fog on the inside surface of the lamp lens.
Most exterior lamps on General Motors vehicles use a vented design and feature a replaceable
bulb assembly. They are designed to remove any accumulated moisture vapor by expelling it
through a vent system. The vent system operates at all times, however, it is most effective when
the lamps are ON or when the vehicle is in motion. Depending on the size, shape and location of
the lamp on the vehicle, and the atmospheric conditions occurring, the amount of time required to
clear the lamp may vary from 2 to 6 hours.
Completely sealed headlamp assemblies (sealed beams) are still used on a limited number of
models being manufactured today. These lamps require the replacement of the complete lamp
assembly if a bulb filament burns out.
Condensation 2006 TrailBlazer Shown
A Fine Mist or White Fog on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens Occurring After a Period of High
Humidity
- May be located primarily in the lens corners (near the vents) and SHOULD NOT cover more than
half the lens surface.
- The condition should clear of moisture when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when
the vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a SIMILAR
performance.
If the above conditions are noted, the customer should be advised that replacement of a lamp
assembly may not correct this condition.
Water Leak New Style Pickup Shown
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement > Page 10941
Numerous & Various Size Drops of Water Collecting on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens After
the Vehicle Has Been Exposed to Rain or a Car Washing Environment
- A condition that covers more than half the surface of the lamp lens.
- An accumulation of water in the bottom of the lamp assembly.
- A condition that WON'T clear when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when the
vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a different
performance.
Any of the above conditions would indicate the need to service the lens or lamp assembly.
Disclaimer
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> Page 10942
Component Location Views
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> Page 10943
Parking Lamp: Diagrams
RF Park/Turn Lamp
LF Park/Turn Lamp
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> Page 10944
LF Park/Turn Lamp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Park/Turn Signal Lamp Replacement
Parking Lamp: Service and Repair Park/Turn Signal Lamp Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the front inner wheel housing. 2. Remove the park/turn signal lamp retaining nuts. 3.
Push the lamp assembly outward. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector. 5. Remove the socket by
completing the following steps:
5.1. Depress the locking tab. 5.2. Rotate the socket (3) counter-clockwise.
6. Remove the bulb from the socket (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bulb to the socket (3). 2. Install the socket (3) into the park/turn signal lamp assembly.
Turn the socket (3) counterclockwise.
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Install the park/turn signal lamp.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
5. Install the park/turn signal lamp retaining screws.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
6. Install the front inner wheel housing.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Park/Turn Signal Lamp Replacement > Page 10947
Parking Lamp: Service and Repair Park/Turn Signal/Side Marker Lamp Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the headlamp assembly. 2. Remove the socket from the side marker lamp assembly
(3). 3. Remove the side marker lamp retaining nuts. 4. Remove the side marker lamp from the front
fender (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the side marker lamp to the front fender (2).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the side marker lamp retaining nuts.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
3. Install the socket to the side marker lamp assembly (3). 4. Install the headlamp assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Locations
DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP RELAY
Front View Of Fuse Block
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Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 10952
Component Location Views
The Daytime Running Lamp Relay is located in the Left Fuse block. The Left Fuse Block is located
behind lower LH side of Instrument Panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Fog Lamp Cut Off Relay
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Fog Lamp Cut Off Relay > Page 10957
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10958
Fog/Driving Lamp Relay: Diagrams
Fog Lamp Cutoff Relay
Fog Lamp Relay
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Horn Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations
Horn Relay: Component Locations
HORN RELAY
Convenience Center
The Horn Relay is located in the Convenience Center. The Convenience Center is located at the
right front of the passenger compartment.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Horn Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 10963
Convenience Center
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Backup Lamp Switch: Locations
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10968
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 10969
Backup Lamp Switch (Manual)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Brake Switch And Cruise Control Brake Switch
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Light Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10975
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10976
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10977
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10978
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10979
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10980
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10981
Brake Light Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10982
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10983
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10984
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10985
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 10988
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 11005
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 11006
Brake Light Switch: Connector Views
Brake Switch (C1)
Brake Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 11007
Turn/Hazard/Front Marker/Front Park
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 11008
Brake Light Switch: Adjustments
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the driver side sound insulator. 2. Remove the electrical connection. 3. Disconnect the
brake switch retainer (2), grasping and turning 90 degrees counter clockwise and pulling the switch
towards the rear of the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Insert the stop lamp switch (2) into the retainer until the switch body seats on the retainer.
2. Pull the brake pedal (3) upward against the internal pedal stop. 3. For the diagnosis of the stop
light circuit, refer to Electrical Diagnosis. 4. Turn the switch 90 degrees clockwise in order to lock
into position.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 11009
5. Install the electrical connection. 6. Install the drivers side sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 11010
Brake Light Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the driver side sound insulator. 2. Remove the electrical connection. 3. Disconnect the
brake switch retainer (2), grasping and turning 90 degrees counter clockwise and pulling towards
the rear of the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Insert the stop lamp switch (2) into the retainer until the switch body seats on the retainer.
2. Pull the brake pedal (3) upward against the internal pedal stop.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 11011
^ For the diagnosis of the stop light circuit, refer to Electrical Diagnosis.
^ For adjustment of the stop lamp, refer to Stop Lamp Adjustment.
3. Turn the switch 90 degrees clockwise in order to lock into position. 4. Install the electrical
connection. 5. Install the drivers side sound insulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Dome Lamp Switch: Service and Repair
Dome Lamp Override Switch Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the headlining trim finish panel. 2. Remove the reading lamp switch tabs from the dome
lamp housing. 3. Remove the reading lamp.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the reading lamp switch to the dome lamp housing. 2. Install the headlining trim finish
panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Door Switch: Component Locations
Door Jamb Switch, LH Front
Component Location Views
At the left front door jamb (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 11019
Component Location Views
At the left rear door (right switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Front
At the right front door jamb (left switch similar)
Door Jamb Switch, RH Rear
At the right rear door jamb
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 11020
Door Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 11021
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 11022
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 11023
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 11024
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 11025
Door Switch: Diagrams
LF Door Jamb Switch
LR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 11026
RF Door Jamb Switch
RF Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 11027
RR Door Jamb Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 11031
Fog Lamp Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Switch
> Component Information > Locations
Hazard Warning Switch: Locations
Windshield Wiper, Passlock (TM), Turn/Hazard, Cruise Control And Headlamp Connectors
At the left side of the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 11035
Hazard Warning Switch: Diagrams
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 11036
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C2)
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 11037
Hazard Warning Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Headlamp Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Interior Light Switch >
Component Information > Locations > LH
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Interior Light Switch >
Component Information > Locations > LH > Page 11045
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Interior Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Courtesy/Reading Lamp
Interior Light Switch: Diagrams Courtesy/Reading Lamp
LH Courtesy/Reading Lamp
RH Courtesy/Reading Lamp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Interior Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Courtesy/Reading Lamp > Page 11048
Interior Light Switch: Diagrams Courtesy/Reading Lamp Switch
LH Courtesy/Reading Lamp Switch
RH Courtesy/Reading Lamp Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications
Turn Signal Switch: Specifications
Turn Signal Switch Assembly
.............................................................................................................................................................
3.4 N.m (30 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 11055
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 11056
Turn Signal Switch: Diagrams
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 11057
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C3)
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 11058
Turn Signal Switch: Testing and Inspection
This diagnosis covers mechanical problems only. Refer to ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS for turn
signal switch electrical diagnosis.
TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT STAY IN TURN POSITION
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT CANCEL
Inspect ^
Loose turn signal switch mounting screws.
^ Broken turn signal switch.
^ Damaged canceling cam.
TURN SIGNAL DIFFICULT TO OPERATE
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Loose turn signal switch mounting screws.
TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT INDICATE LANE CHANGE
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Pinched turn switch wires.
^ Burned out turn indicator panel lights.
HAZARD SWITCH CANNOT BE TURNED OFF
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
HAZARD SWITCH WILL NOT STAY ON OR DIFFICULT TO TURN OFF
Inspect ^
Loose turn signal switch.
^ Hazard switch interference with other components.
^ Foreign material interference to hazard slider lever.
^ Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Misaligned column covers.
NO TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal bulbs.
^ Electrical short in wiring harness.
^ Inoperative turn signal flasher.
^ Loose turn signal switch connector.
^ Damaged turn signal switch.
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS ON, BUT NOT FLASHING
Inspect ^
Bulb burnt out, either in front or back or side of vehicle.
^ Inoperative turn signal flasher.
^ Inoperative turn signal switch.
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS OFF AND NOT FLASHING
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Burned-out or damaged turn signal bulb.
^ High resistance connection to ground at bulb socket.
^ Loose turn signal switch connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 11059
^ Faulty turn signal flasher.
NO TURN INDICATOR PANEL LIGHTS
Inspect ^
Burned out bulbs or opens, grounds in the wiring harness from the front turn signal bulb socket to
the indicator lights.
TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS FLASH VERY RAPIDLY OR VERY SLOWLY
Inspect ^
Burned out or damaged turn signal bulbs.
^ Loose turn signal connection.
^ Faulty turn signal flasher.
^ Pinched or grounded wiring harness.
HAZARD SIGNAL LIGHTS WILL NOT FLASH - TURN SIGNAL FUNCTIONS NORMALLY
Inspect ^
Blown fuse.
^ Inoperative hazard warning flasher.
^ Loose turn signal switch connection.
^ Damaged turn signal switch.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 11060
Turn Signal Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement
Tail Lamp: Technical Service Bulletins Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-08-42-001H
Date: January 05, 2011
Subject: Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement Guidelines
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-08-42-001G (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The following information is being provided to better define the causes of condensation in exterior
lamps and includes guidelines for determining the difference between a lamp with a normal
atmospheric condition (condensation) and a lamp with a water leak.
Some exterior lamps, such as cornering, turn signal, backup, headlamps or tail lamps may exhibit
very small droplets of water, a fine mist or white fog (condensation) on the inside of the lamp lens.
This may be more noticeable on lamps with "multi-lens" designs and may be normal during certain
weather conditions.
Condensation occurs when the air inside the lamp assembly, through atmospheric changes,
reaches the "dew point". When this takes place, the moisture in the air within the lamp assembly
condenses, creating a fine mist or white fog on the inside surface of the lamp lens.
Most exterior lamps on General Motors vehicles use a vented design and feature a replaceable
bulb assembly. They are designed to remove any accumulated moisture vapor by expelling it
through a vent system. The vent system operates at all times, however, it is most effective when
the lamps are ON or when the vehicle is in motion. Depending on the size, shape and location of
the lamp on the vehicle, and the atmospheric conditions occurring, the amount of time required to
clear the lamp may vary from 2 to 6 hours.
Completely sealed headlamp assemblies (sealed beams) are still used on a limited number of
models being manufactured today. These lamps require the replacement of the complete lamp
assembly if a bulb filament burns out.
Condensation 2006 TrailBlazer Shown
A Fine Mist or White Fog on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens Occurring After a Period of High
Humidity
- May be located primarily in the lens corners (near the vents) and SHOULD NOT cover more than
half the lens surface.
- The condition should clear of moisture when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when
the vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a SIMILAR
performance.
If the above conditions are noted, the customer should be advised that replacement of a lamp
assembly may not correct this condition.
Water Leak New Style Pickup Shown
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement > Page 11065
Numerous & Various Size Drops of Water Collecting on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens After
the Vehicle Has Been Exposed to Rain or a Car Washing Environment
- A condition that covers more than half the surface of the lamp lens.
- An accumulation of water in the bottom of the lamp assembly.
- A condition that WON'T clear when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when the
vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a different
performance.
Any of the above conditions would indicate the need to service the lens or lamp assembly.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 11068
Tail Lamp: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 11069
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Tail Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 11072
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 11073
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 11074
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 11075
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 11076
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 11077
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 11078
Tail Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Information and Instructions > Page 11092
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Information and Instructions > Page 11093
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Information and Instructions > Page 11094
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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Information and Instructions > Page 11096
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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Information and Instructions > Page 11097
barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Information and Instructions > Page 11098
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 11103
Tail Lamp: Connector Views
LH Tail/Stop/Turn Lamp
RH Tail/Stop/Turn Lamp
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Information and Instructions > Page 11104
Tail/Rear Marker/License
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Tail Lamp: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the tail lamp wire harness sockets (6). 2. Remove the tail lamp nut (1). 3. Remove
the tail lamp (5).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the tail lamp (5). 2. Align the tail lamp to the deck lid applique.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the tail lamp nut (1).
Tighten Tighten the tail lamps nuts to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
4. Connect the tail lamp wire harness sockets (6).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Trunk Lamp Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Flasher > Component Information >
Locations
Turn Signal Flasher: Locations
Brake Switch And Cruise Control Brake Switch
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Locations > Page 11114
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Flasher > Component Information >
Locations > Page 11115
Turn/Hazard Flasher
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Lamp > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement
Turn Signal Lamp: Technical Service Bulletins Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and
Replacement
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-08-42-001H
Date: January 05, 2011
Subject: Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement Guidelines
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-08-42-001G (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The following information is being provided to better define the causes of condensation in exterior
lamps and includes guidelines for determining the difference between a lamp with a normal
atmospheric condition (condensation) and a lamp with a water leak.
Some exterior lamps, such as cornering, turn signal, backup, headlamps or tail lamps may exhibit
very small droplets of water, a fine mist or white fog (condensation) on the inside of the lamp lens.
This may be more noticeable on lamps with "multi-lens" designs and may be normal during certain
weather conditions.
Condensation occurs when the air inside the lamp assembly, through atmospheric changes,
reaches the "dew point". When this takes place, the moisture in the air within the lamp assembly
condenses, creating a fine mist or white fog on the inside surface of the lamp lens.
Most exterior lamps on General Motors vehicles use a vented design and feature a replaceable
bulb assembly. They are designed to remove any accumulated moisture vapor by expelling it
through a vent system. The vent system operates at all times, however, it is most effective when
the lamps are ON or when the vehicle is in motion. Depending on the size, shape and location of
the lamp on the vehicle, and the atmospheric conditions occurring, the amount of time required to
clear the lamp may vary from 2 to 6 hours.
Completely sealed headlamp assemblies (sealed beams) are still used on a limited number of
models being manufactured today. These lamps require the replacement of the complete lamp
assembly if a bulb filament burns out.
Condensation 2006 TrailBlazer Shown
A Fine Mist or White Fog on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens Occurring After a Period of High
Humidity
- May be located primarily in the lens corners (near the vents) and SHOULD NOT cover more than
half the lens surface.
- The condition should clear of moisture when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when
the vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a SIMILAR
performance.
If the above conditions are noted, the customer should be advised that replacement of a lamp
assembly may not correct this condition.
Water Leak New Style Pickup Shown
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Technical Service Bulletins > Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement > Page 11120
Numerous & Various Size Drops of Water Collecting on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens After
the Vehicle Has Been Exposed to Rain or a Car Washing Environment
- A condition that covers more than half the surface of the lamp lens.
- An accumulation of water in the bottom of the lamp assembly.
- A condition that WON'T clear when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when the
vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a different
performance.
Any of the above conditions would indicate the need to service the lens or lamp assembly.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Lamp > Component Information >
Locations > Auxiliary Turn Lamp, RF
Turn Signal Lamp: Locations Auxiliary Turn Lamp, RF
Right fender
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Locations > Auxiliary Turn Lamp, RF > Page 11123
Component Location Views
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Lamp > Component Information >
Locations > Page 11124
Turn Signal Lamp: Diagrams
LH Tail/Stop/Turn Lamp
RH Tail/Stop/Turn Lamp
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Lamp > Component Information >
Locations > Page 11125
LF Park/Turn Lamp
RF Park/Turn Lamp
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Locations > Page 11126
LF Park/Turn Lamp
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Lamp > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Park/Turn Signal Lamp Replacement
Turn Signal Lamp: Service and Repair Park/Turn Signal Lamp Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the front inner wheel housing. 2. Remove the park/turn signal lamp retaining nuts. 3.
Push the lamp assembly outward. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector. 5. Remove the socket by
completing the following steps:
5.1. Depress the locking tab. 5.2. Rotate the socket (3) counter-clockwise.
6. Remove the bulb from the socket (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bulb to the socket (3). 2. Install the socket (3) into the park/turn signal lamp assembly.
Turn the socket (3) counterclockwise.
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Install the park/turn signal lamp.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
5. Install the park/turn signal lamp retaining screws.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
6. Install the front inner wheel housing.
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and Repair > Park/Turn Signal Lamp Replacement > Page 11129
Turn Signal Lamp: Service and Repair Park/Turn Signal/Side Marker Lamp Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the headlamp assembly. 2. Remove the socket from the side marker lamp assembly
(3). 3. Remove the side marker lamp retaining nuts. 4. Remove the side marker lamp from the front
fender (2).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the side marker lamp to the front fender (2).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the side marker lamp retaining nuts.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
3. Install the socket to the side marker lamp assembly (3). 4. Install the headlamp assembly.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Switch > Component Information >
Specifications
Turn Signal Switch: Specifications
Turn Signal Switch Assembly
.............................................................................................................................................................
3.4 N.m (30 inch lbs.)
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Specifications > Page 11133
Component Location Views
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Specifications > Page 11134
Turn Signal Switch: Diagrams
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C1)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Switch > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 11135
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C3)
Turn/Hazard Headlamp Switch (C2)
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Specifications > Page 11136
Turn Signal Switch: Testing and Inspection
This diagnosis covers mechanical problems only. Refer to ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS for turn
signal switch electrical diagnosis.
TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT STAY IN TURN POSITION
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT CANCEL
Inspect ^
Loose turn signal switch mounting screws.
^ Broken turn signal switch.
^ Damaged canceling cam.
TURN SIGNAL DIFFICULT TO OPERATE
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Loose turn signal switch mounting screws.
TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT INDICATE LANE CHANGE
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Pinched turn switch wires.
^ Burned out turn indicator panel lights.
HAZARD SWITCH CANNOT BE TURNED OFF
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
HAZARD SWITCH WILL NOT STAY ON OR DIFFICULT TO TURN OFF
Inspect ^
Loose turn signal switch.
^ Hazard switch interference with other components.
^ Foreign material interference to hazard slider lever.
^ Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Misaligned column covers.
NO TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal bulbs.
^ Electrical short in wiring harness.
^ Inoperative turn signal flasher.
^ Loose turn signal switch connector.
^ Damaged turn signal switch.
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS ON, BUT NOT FLASHING
Inspect ^
Bulb burnt out, either in front or back or side of vehicle.
^ Inoperative turn signal flasher.
^ Inoperative turn signal switch.
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS OFF AND NOT FLASHING
Inspect ^
Damaged turn signal switch.
^ Burned-out or damaged turn signal bulb.
^ High resistance connection to ground at bulb socket.
^ Loose turn signal switch connector.
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^ Faulty turn signal flasher.
NO TURN INDICATOR PANEL LIGHTS
Inspect ^
Burned out bulbs or opens, grounds in the wiring harness from the front turn signal bulb socket to
the indicator lights.
TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS FLASH VERY RAPIDLY OR VERY SLOWLY
Inspect ^
Burned out or damaged turn signal bulbs.
^ Loose turn signal connection.
^ Faulty turn signal flasher.
^ Pinched or grounded wiring harness.
HAZARD SIGNAL LIGHTS WILL NOT FLASH - TURN SIGNAL FUNCTIONS NORMALLY
Inspect ^
Blown fuse.
^ Inoperative hazard warning flasher.
^ Loose turn signal switch connection.
^ Damaged turn signal switch.
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Specifications > Page 11138
Turn Signal Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
This lever includes the headlamp, headlamp dimmer, turn signal and hazard switches. It also
includes the cruise control switch, if equipped. 1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever
from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch assembly. 2. Dampener assembly. 3. Upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Tilt
lever to column (if used). 5. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Vanity Lamp > Component Information > Locations > S107
Vanity Lamp: Locations S107
In the engine harness, front left side of the engine, approximately 34cm (13 in) from the engine
compartment fuse/relay center.
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11143
Vanity Lamp: Locations S203
In the dash harness, approximately 29 cm (11in) from the electronic brake control module
connector C1
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11144
Vanity Lamp: Locations S206
In the dash harness, approximatley 21.5 cm (8.5 in) from P201, toward the instrument cluster
connectors.
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11145
Vanity Lamp: Locations S214
In the dash harness, approximatley 18 cm (7 in) from the electronic brake control modle connector
C2.
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11146
Vanity Lamp: Locations S277
In the dash harness, approximately 77.5 cm (30.5 in) from P201 toward the data link connector.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Component Information > Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Heated Glass Element: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Body Part Names
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
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GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
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The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
Schematic Symbols
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 11155
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 11156
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 11158
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Heated Glass Element: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
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1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
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Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
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FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
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A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,
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it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again.
It will continue to cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are:
- Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color
all the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
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Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3:
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Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
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To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat
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barrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
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Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
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Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Heated Glass Element: Connector Views
CONNECTOR VIEWS C1/C2
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Rear Defogger
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
11186
Heated Glass Element: Description and Operation
With the Ignition Switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied to the Rear Defogger Control
Switch. When the Rear Defogger Control Switch is pressed, voltage is applied to the solid state
Timing Circuit, providing voltage to the ON Indicator and the rear Defogger. The rear window
becomes warm to remove the condensation from the surface of the window.The contact in the
Timing Circuit stays closed until the Rear Defogger Control Switch is pressed again, the timer cycle
is complete, or the Ignition Switch is turned to the OFF position.
The first time the Rear Defogger Control Switch is pressed, the Timing Circuit allows the Rear
Defogger to operate for approximately ten minutes. Each time after that when the Rear Defogger
Control Switch is pressed, the Timing Circuit operates for approximately five minutes. The Timing
Circuit resets to ten minutes when the Ignition Switch is turned to the OFF position.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures
Heated Glass Element: Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures
Circuit Operation
With the Ignition Switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied to the Rear Defogger Control
Switch. When the Rear Defogger Control Switch is pressed, voltage is applied to the solid state
Timing Circuit, providing voltage to the ON Indicator and the rear Defogger. The rear window
becomes warm to remove the condensation from the surface of the window.The contact in the
Timing Circuit stays closed until the Rear Defogger Control Switch is pressed again, the timer cycle
is complete, or the Ignition Switch is turned to the OFF position.
The first time the Rear Defogger Control Switch is pressed, the Timing Circuit allows the Rear
Defogger to operate for approximately ten minutes. Each time after that when the Rear Defogger
Control Switch is pressed, the Timing Circuit operates for approximately five minutes. The Timing
Circuit resets to ten minutes when the Ignition Switch is turned to the OFF position.
Troubleshooting Hints
1. Check the RR Defog and the HVAC Fuses by visual inspection. 2. If one or more of the grid lines
do not heat, refer to Stationary Windows for grid line repair procedures. See: Windows 3. If the
Panel Light is inoperable with the Headlamp Switch in the PARK or HEAD positions, check the bulb
and the wiring to bulb. Refer to
Interior Lights Dimming. See: Lighting and Horns
4. If the Rear Defogger ON Indicator lights continuously or does not light at all, but Rear Defogger
operates normally, replace the Heater-A/C and
Rear Defogger Control Assembly. Refer to Heater-A/C Control. See: Heating and Air Conditioning
5. If the Rear Defogger does not stay on for the ten minute/five minute time periods, replace the
Heater-A/C and Rear Defogger Control Assembly.
Refer to Heater-A/C Control.
6. If the Rear Defogger does not turn off replace the Heater-A/C and Rear Defogger Control
Assembly. Refer to Heater-A/C Control. ^
Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside of the insulation which could cause system
failure but prove good in a continuity/voltage check. Refer to Troubleshooting Procedures.
^ Check for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity of
other systems. Refer to Troubleshooting Procedures. See: Diagrams/Diagnostic Aids
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > Page 11189
Heated Glass Element: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Rear Defogger Does Not Operate (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > Page 11190
Rear Defogger Does Not Operate (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Rear Defogger > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Broken Rear Window Defogger Grid Detection
Rear Defogger: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Broken Rear Window Defogger Grid Detection
Bulletin No.: 04-08-48-001B
Date: June 28, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Rear Window Defogger - Broken Heating Grid Detection Method
Models: 2006 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2006
HUMMER H2 2006 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2006 model year and additional models. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 04-08-48-001A (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The addition of vertical grid lines to the heated back window defogger circuits has made it difficult
to detect broken defogger grid lines. In the past, it was a simple matter to use a voltmeter to check
the continuity of each grid line in order to locate a non-functional line. Some new design back
windows have two vertical grid lines that connect all of the horizontal grid lines together, thereby
providing alternate routes for the electrical current to follow. This makes the old test method
ineffective. If the vehicle does not have the vertical lines, the old (line-by-line) test methods can be
used.
Materials Required
^ Permatex(R) Quick Grid, GM P/N 12346001, or equivalent
^ A small ball of fine steel wool Type 00, or
^ Optional - A strip of liquid crystal heat sensitive paper, 51 mm x 305 mm (2 in x 12 in) or similar
size (Contact Edmund Scientific at 800-728-6999 for part number CR30723-70 or go to
www.scientificsonline.com), or
^ Optional-A portable infrared thermometer, GE-46819, available from Kent-Moore
(1-800-345-2233), or equivalent.
Correction
There are three distinct zones across the back window that must be checked. They are:
^ the driver's side outboard of the two vertical lines
^ the passenger side outboard of the two vertical lines
^ the central zone that falls between the two vertical lines
To detect a broken grid line in any of the above three zones and to isolate the exact location of the
break, perform the following steps:
Caution:
^ Approved safety glasses and gloves should be worn when performing this procedure to reduce
the chance of personal injury.
^ Cover the rear shelf area to prevent damage to the interior trim material.
1. Start the engine and turn on the back window defogger.
2. Take the ball of fine steel wool and twist one end to a point. Move the point slowly across each
grid line. Be sure to start at the far side of the zone and move it to the opposite side of the zone.
When you bridge the grid line break with the steel wool, you will see a small spark. Repeat the test
over the same area to be sure you have accurately located the break. Mark the exact location of
the grid line break. Repeat this portion of the test for each grid line. If you do not see a spark at any
point, it is possible that there are two breaks in the same line and zone. Close visual inspection
using a magnifying glass may be the only way to locate breaks in this case.
3. The following are provided as an alternative way to detect a non-functional grid line. If available,
use in addition to the steel wool.
3.1. Method using liquid crystal heat sensitive paper:
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Rear Defogger > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Broken Rear Window Defogger Grid Detection > Page 11195
Important:
The first part of the test must be completed quickly before the entire surface of the back window
becomes warm.
3.1.1. From outside the vehicle, place the heat sensitive paper (dull surface in contact with the
glass) against the top driver side grid line. Start the
engine and turn on the back window defogger. A distinct color change will take place at each
conductive grid line. Repeat for the bottom grid lines until they have all been checked in the driver
side zone.
3.1.2. Repeat the process for the passenger side and center area zones.
3.1.3. If no color change is noted for a grid line, place a crayon or china marker check mark beside
it. Mark each grid line in the zone where it is
non-conductive and, therefore, not heating up. More than one broken grid line may be found.
3.2. Method using portable infrared thermometer:
3.2.1. Start the engine and turn on the rear back window defogger.
3.2.2. From inside the vehicle, start at the top driver side grid line and slowly run the portable
infrared thermometer vertically down the rear
window contacting each grid line. You should be able to see a district variation in temperature
readings.
3.2.3. Mark each grid line in the zone where it is non-conductive and, therefore, not heating up.
More than one broken grid line may be found.
3.2.4. Repeat the process for the passenger side and center area zones.
4. Use Permatex(R) Quick Grid, GM P/N 12346001, or equivalent, to repair each broken grid line.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Wait 24 hours before turning the defogger on, or the repair can be fast cured using a heat gun,
260°C - 371°C (500°F - 700°F). Hold the heat gun within 25 - 51 mm (1-2 in) from the repair point
for 2 to 3 minutes.
6. Recheck the grid line with the heat sensitive paper or portable infrared thermometer to ensure
that the line is now functional and that the repair was successful.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Power Window Switch: Component Locations
Location View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 11201
Location View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 11202
Power Window Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 11203
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > LR
Power Window Switch: Diagrams LR
LR Window Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 11206
LR Window Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 11207
Power Window Switch: Diagrams Master Window Switch
Master Window Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 11208
Master Window Switch (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 11209
Power Window Switch: Diagrams RR
RR Window Switch
RR Window Switch (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams > LR > Page 11210
RR Window Switch (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
DOOR INSIDE HANDLE BEZEL AND POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH
Door Inside Handle Bezel And Power Door Lock Switch - Pontiac
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pull door inside handle to the full open position. 2. Press on inside handle bezel. 3. Pry door
inside handle bezel from top using a flat blade tool. 4. Pull door inside bezel upward. 5. (Front Door
Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 6. Front door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11213
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. (Front Door Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 2. Pull door inside handle to the full open
position. 3. Insert front tab on door inside bezel to locating notch behind front edge of opening in
door trim panel. 4. Push door inside bezel downward to insert lower tab behind lower edge of door
trim panel. 5. Insert rear most lowest tab of door inside bezel to edge of door trim panel. 6. Snap
into place the top two tabs on door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11214
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Upper Extension Trim Panel Replacement
Hardtop
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the finish screw that retains the bezel to the front door upper trim.
2. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11215
3. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control power mirror bezel to the front door
upper trim. 4. Disconnect the power mirror switch. (Power windows only). 5. Remove the upper trim
finish panel from the front door.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11216
2. Install the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
3. Connect the power mirror switch to the front door upper trim finish panel. (Power window only).
4. Install the front door upper trim finish panel to the remote control power mirror bezel. (Power
window only).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
5. Install the screw to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Convertible
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11217
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the screw (5). 2. Remove the upper front panel (4). 3. Remove the mirror patch filler (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the mirror patch filler (3). 2. Install the upper front panel (4).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the screw (5).
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11218
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Power Window Switch Replacement
POWER WINDOW SWITCH (HARDTOP)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver in order to pry the power window switch outward. 2. Disconnect
the power window switch wire harness. 3. Remove the power window switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the power window switch wire harness. 2. Install the power window switch. Ensure the
unit is retained.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Motor > Component Information >
Locations > LH Front Power Window Motor Connector
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Motor > Component Information >
Locations > LH Front Power Window Motor Connector > Page 11224
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Motor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 11225
Power Window Motor: Diagrams
LF Window Motor
LR Window Motor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Motor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 11226
RF Window Motor
RR Window Motor
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Motor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 11227
Power Window Motor: Service and Repair
For Window Regulator Motor service and repair, refer to Window Regulator.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations
Power Window Switch: Component Locations
Location View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations > Page 11232
Location View
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations > Page 11233
Power Window Switch: Connector Locations
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations > Page 11234
Component Location Views
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > LR
Power Window Switch: Diagrams LR
LR Window Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > LR > Page 11237
LR Window Switch
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > LR > Page 11238
Power Window Switch: Diagrams Master Window Switch
Master Window Switch (C2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > LR > Page 11239
Master Window Switch (C1)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > LR > Page 11240
Power Window Switch: Diagrams RR
RR Window Switch
RR Window Switch (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > LR > Page 11241
RR Window Switch (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
DOOR INSIDE HANDLE BEZEL AND POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH
Door Inside Handle Bezel And Power Door Lock Switch - Pontiac
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pull door inside handle to the full open position. 2. Press on inside handle bezel. 3. Pry door
inside handle bezel from top using a flat blade tool. 4. Pull door inside bezel upward. 5. (Front Door
Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 6. Front door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11244
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. (Front Door Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 2. Pull door inside handle to the full open
position. 3. Insert front tab on door inside bezel to locating notch behind front edge of opening in
door trim panel. 4. Push door inside bezel downward to insert lower tab behind lower edge of door
trim panel. 5. Insert rear most lowest tab of door inside bezel to edge of door trim panel. 6. Snap
into place the top two tabs on door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11245
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Upper Extension Trim Panel Replacement
Hardtop
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the finish screw that retains the bezel to the front door upper trim.
2. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11246
3. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control power mirror bezel to the front door
upper trim. 4. Disconnect the power mirror switch. (Power windows only). 5. Remove the upper trim
finish panel from the front door.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11247
2. Install the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
3. Connect the power mirror switch to the front door upper trim finish panel. (Power window only).
4. Install the front door upper trim finish panel to the remote control power mirror bezel. (Power
window only).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
5. Install the screw to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Convertible
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11248
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the screw (5). 2. Remove the upper front panel (4). 3. Remove the mirror patch filler (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the mirror patch filler (3). 2. Install the upper front panel (4).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the screw (5).
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Switch > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11249
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Power Window Switch Replacement
POWER WINDOW SWITCH (HARDTOP)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver in order to pry the power window switch outward. 2. Disconnect
the power window switch wire harness. 3. Remove the power window switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the power window switch wire harness. 2. Install the power window switch. Ensure the
unit is retained.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Glass > Back Window Glass > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
Back Window Glass: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-08-48-005D
Date: September 10, 2010
Subject: Distortion in Outer Surface of Vehicle Glass
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X 2010 and Prior Saturn
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-48-005C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Distortion in the outer surface of the windshield glass, door glass or backlite glass may appear after
the vehicle has:
- Accumulated some mileage.
- Been frequently washed in automatic car washes, particularly "touchless" car washes.
This distortion may look like a subtle orange peel pattern, or may look like a drip or sag etched into
the surface of the glass.
Some car wash solutions contain a buffered solution of hydrofluoric acid which is used to clean the
glass. This should not cause a problem if used in the correct concentration. However, if not used
correctly, hydrofluoric acid will attack the glass, and over time, will cause visual distortion in the
outer surface of the glass which cannot be removed by scraping or polishing.
If this condition is suspected, look at the area of the windshield under the wipers or below the belt
seal on the side glass. The area of the glass below the wipers or belt seal will not be affected and
what looks like a drip or sag may be apparent at the edge of the wiper or belt seal. You may also
see a line on the glass where the wiper blade or the belt seal contacts the glass.
Important The repair will require replacing the affected glass and is not a result of a defect in
material or workmanship. Therefore, is not covered by New Vehicle Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Glass > Front Corner Window Glass >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
Front Corner Window Glass: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-08-48-005D
Date: September 10, 2010
Subject: Distortion in Outer Surface of Vehicle Glass
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X 2010 and Prior Saturn
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-48-005C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Distortion in the outer surface of the windshield glass, door glass or backlite glass may appear after
the vehicle has:
- Accumulated some mileage.
- Been frequently washed in automatic car washes, particularly "touchless" car washes.
This distortion may look like a subtle orange peel pattern, or may look like a drip or sag etched into
the surface of the glass.
Some car wash solutions contain a buffered solution of hydrofluoric acid which is used to clean the
glass. This should not cause a problem if used in the correct concentration. However, if not used
correctly, hydrofluoric acid will attack the glass, and over time, will cause visual distortion in the
outer surface of the glass which cannot be removed by scraping or polishing.
If this condition is suspected, look at the area of the windshield under the wipers or below the belt
seal on the side glass. The area of the glass below the wipers or belt seal will not be affected and
what looks like a drip or sag may be apparent at the edge of the wiper or belt seal. You may also
see a line on the glass where the wiper blade or the belt seal contacts the glass.
Important The repair will require replacing the affected glass and is not a result of a defect in
material or workmanship. Therefore, is not covered by New Vehicle Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Glass > Front Door Window Glass > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
Front Door Window Glass: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-08-48-005D
Date: September 10, 2010
Subject: Distortion in Outer Surface of Vehicle Glass
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X 2010 and Prior Saturn
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-48-005C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Distortion in the outer surface of the windshield glass, door glass or backlite glass may appear after
the vehicle has:
- Accumulated some mileage.
- Been frequently washed in automatic car washes, particularly "touchless" car washes.
This distortion may look like a subtle orange peel pattern, or may look like a drip or sag etched into
the surface of the glass.
Some car wash solutions contain a buffered solution of hydrofluoric acid which is used to clean the
glass. This should not cause a problem if used in the correct concentration. However, if not used
correctly, hydrofluoric acid will attack the glass, and over time, will cause visual distortion in the
outer surface of the glass which cannot be removed by scraping or polishing.
If this condition is suspected, look at the area of the windshield under the wipers or below the belt
seal on the side glass. The area of the glass below the wipers or belt seal will not be affected and
what looks like a drip or sag may be apparent at the edge of the wiper or belt seal. You may also
see a line on the glass where the wiper blade or the belt seal contacts the glass.
Important The repair will require replacing the affected glass and is not a result of a defect in
material or workmanship. Therefore, is not covered by New Vehicle Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Glass > Front Door Window Glass > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information > Page 11263
Front Door Window Glass: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Side Window Chipping Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-64-001B
Date: October 20, 2009
Subject: Information on Side Door Window Glass Chipping Caused by Hanging Vehicle Key Lock
Box
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add vehicles and model years and to include all types of
door window glass. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-64-001A (Section 08 - Body &
Accessories).
- In several warranty parts review cases, side door window glass was observed with a chip or chips
on the top side of the window glass. Dealer contacts confirmed that they use a vehicle key lock box
on the front side door window glass.
- A random selection of side door glass returns will be conducted to confirm adherence. If a side
door glass is discovered with a chip or chips in the location previously described, the side door
glass will be returned to the dealership for debit.
Example of Side Door Glass
- DO NOT place a vehicle key lock box on a side door window glass.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Glass > Front Door Window Glass > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information > Page 11264
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Glass > Quarter Window Glass > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
Quarter Window Glass: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-08-48-005D
Date: September 10, 2010
Subject: Distortion in Outer Surface of Vehicle Glass
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X 2010 and Prior Saturn
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-48-005C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Distortion in the outer surface of the windshield glass, door glass or backlite glass may appear after
the vehicle has:
- Accumulated some mileage.
- Been frequently washed in automatic car washes, particularly "touchless" car washes.
This distortion may look like a subtle orange peel pattern, or may look like a drip or sag etched into
the surface of the glass.
Some car wash solutions contain a buffered solution of hydrofluoric acid which is used to clean the
glass. This should not cause a problem if used in the correct concentration. However, if not used
correctly, hydrofluoric acid will attack the glass, and over time, will cause visual distortion in the
outer surface of the glass which cannot be removed by scraping or polishing.
If this condition is suspected, look at the area of the windshield under the wipers or below the belt
seal on the side glass. The area of the glass below the wipers or belt seal will not be affected and
what looks like a drip or sag may be apparent at the edge of the wiper or belt seal. You may also
see a line on the glass where the wiper blade or the belt seal contacts the glass.
Important The repair will require replacing the affected glass and is not a result of a defect in
material or workmanship. Therefore, is not covered by New Vehicle Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Handle > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Window Handle: Service and Repair
WINDOW REGULATOR HANDLE REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 9886-01 Regulator Handle Clip Remover
1. Place the door window regulator handle in the upward position. 2. Insert the J 9886-01 or an
equivalent between the door window regulator handle and the door trim panel. 3. Push the J
9886-01 downward.
4. Remove the door window regulator handle (4). 5. Remove the door window regulator handle
bearing plate.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Handle > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 11272
1. Install the retaining clip to the door window regulator handle (4). 2. Install the door window
regulator handle bearing plate. 3. Place the door window in the closed position. 4. Push the door
window regulator handle (4) in order to secure the retaining clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
Window Regulator: Service and Repair Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
DOOR INSIDE HANDLE BEZEL AND POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH
Door Inside Handle Bezel And Power Door Lock Switch - Pontiac
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pull door inside handle to the full open position. 2. Press on inside handle bezel. 3. Pry door
inside handle bezel from top using a flat blade tool. 4. Pull door inside bezel upward. 5. (Front Door
Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 6. Front door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11277
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. (Front Door Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 2. Pull door inside handle to the full open
position. 3. Insert front tab on door inside bezel to locating notch behind front edge of opening in
door trim panel. 4. Push door inside bezel downward to insert lower tab behind lower edge of door
trim panel. 5. Insert rear most lowest tab of door inside bezel to edge of door trim panel. 6. Snap
into place the top two tabs on door inside bezel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11278
Window Regulator: Service and Repair Upper Extension Trim Panel Replacement
Hardtop
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the finish screw that retains the bezel to the front door upper trim.
2. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11279
3. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control power mirror bezel to the front door
upper trim. 4. Disconnect the power mirror switch. (Power windows only). 5. Remove the upper trim
finish panel from the front door.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11280
2. Install the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
3. Connect the power mirror switch to the front door upper trim finish panel. (Power window only).
4. Install the front door upper trim finish panel to the remote control power mirror bezel. (Power
window only).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
5. Install the screw to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Convertible
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11281
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the screw (5). 2. Remove the upper front panel (4). 3. Remove the mirror patch filler (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the mirror patch filler (3). 2. Install the upper front panel (4).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the screw (5).
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11282
Window Regulator: Service and Repair Power Window Switch Replacement
POWER WINDOW SWITCH (HARDTOP)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver in order to pry the power window switch outward. 2. Disconnect
the power window switch wire harness. 3. Remove the power window switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the power window switch wire harness. 2. Install the power window switch. Ensure the
unit is retained.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11283
Window Regulator: Service and Repair Window Regulator Handle Replacement
WINDOW REGULATOR HANDLE REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 9886-01 Regulator Handle Clip Remover
1. Place the door window regulator handle in the upward position. 2. Insert the J 9886-01 or an
equivalent between the door window regulator handle and the door trim panel. 3. Push the J
9886-01 downward.
4. Remove the door window regulator handle (4). 5. Remove the door window regulator handle
bearing plate.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11284
1. Install the retaining clip to the door window regulator handle (4). 2. Install the door window
regulator handle bearing plate. 3. Place the door window in the closed position. 4. Push the door
window regulator handle (4) in order to secure the retaining clip.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11285
Window Regulator: Service and Repair
Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch
DOOR INSIDE HANDLE BEZEL AND POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH
Door Inside Handle Bezel And Power Door Lock Switch - Pontiac
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pull door inside handle to the full open position. 2. Press on inside handle bezel. 3. Pry door
inside handle bezel from top using a flat blade tool. 4. Pull door inside bezel upward. 5. (Front Door
Only) Door lock switch wire harness.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11286
6. Front door inside bezel.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. (Front Door Only) Door lock switch wire harness. 2. Pull door inside handle to the full open
position. 3. Insert front tab on door inside bezel to locating notch behind front edge of opening in
door trim panel. 4. Push door inside bezel downward to insert lower tab behind lower edge of door
trim panel. 5. Insert rear most lowest tab of door inside bezel to edge of door trim panel. 6. Snap
into place the top two tabs on door inside bezel.
Hardtop
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the finish screw that retains the bezel to the front door upper trim.
2. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11287
3. Remove the finish screw that retains the remote control power mirror bezel to the front door
upper trim. 4. Disconnect the power mirror switch. (Power windows only). 5. Remove the upper trim
finish panel from the front door.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11288
2. Install the remote control mirror bezel to the front door upper trim finish panel.
3. Connect the power mirror switch to the front door upper trim finish panel. (Power window only).
4. Install the front door upper trim finish panel to the remote control power mirror bezel. (Power
window only).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
5. Install the screw to the front door upper trim finish panel.
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Convertible
UPPER EXTENSION TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11289
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the screw (5). 2. Remove the upper front panel (4). 3. Remove the mirror patch filler (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the mirror patch filler (3). 2. Install the upper front panel (4).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
3. Install the screw (5).
Tighten Tighten the screw to 1 Nm (12 lb in).
Power Window Switch Replacement
POWER WINDOW SWITCH (HARDTOP)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver in order to pry the power window switch outward. 2. Disconnect
the power window switch wire harness. 3. Remove the power window switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the power window switch wire harness. 2. Install the power window switch. Ensure the
unit is retained.
Window Regulator Handle Replacement
WINDOW REGULATOR HANDLE REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11290
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 9886-01 Regulator Handle Clip Remover
1. Place the door window regulator handle in the upward position. 2. Insert the J 9886-01 or an
equivalent between the door window regulator handle and the door trim panel. 3. Push the J
9886-01 downward.
4. Remove the door window regulator handle (4). 5. Remove the door window regulator handle
bearing plate.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11291
1. Install the retaining clip to the door window regulator handle (4). 2. Install the door window
regulator handle bearing plate. 3. Place the door window in the closed position. 4. Push the door
window regulator handle (4) in order to secure the retaining clip.
Water Deflector Replacement
WATER DEFLECTOR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the door trim panel. 2. Remove the door armrest hanger plate. 3. Pull the door water
deflector from the door inner panel.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Proper sealing is necessary in order to prevent water entry into the door and possible
damage to inner door components.
1. Apply the sealer to the original sealing areas on the water deflector. 2. Install the water deflector.
3. Install the armrest hanger plate. 4. Install the door trim panel.
Door Trim Panel Replacement
DOOR TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENT
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11292
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 38778 Door Trim Pad Remover
1. Remove the inside handle bezel from the front door. 2. Remove the power door lock switch. 3.
Remove the power window switch, if equipped. 4. Remove the window regulator handle, if
equipped. 5. Remove the upper trim finish panel. 6. Remove the lower screws (3) from the front
door trim panel. 7. Remove the screws (2) from the front door arm rest. 8. Using the J 38778,
remove the front door trim panel fasteners from the front door inner panel (1). 9. Remove the front
door trim panel (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Push the front door trim panel (1) inward to engage the fasteners.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the arm rest screws (2).
Tighten Tighten the screws (2) to 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb in).
3. Install the lower screws (3) to the front door trim panel.
Tighten Tighten the screws (3) to 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb in).
4. Install the upper trim finish panel. 5. Install the window regulator handle, if equipped. 6. Install
the power window switch, if equipped. 7. Install the inside handle bezel. 8. Install the power door
lock switch.
Window Replacement
DOOR WINDOW ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11293
Front Door Window Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11294
Rear Door Window Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11295
Door Window Assembly Sash
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Door window assembly to the down position to align with access holes. 2. Door trim panel. 3.
Enough door water deflector to access door window assembly nuts. 4. Door window assembly
nuts. 5. Bolts and rear door energy absorber. 6. Lift rear of door window assembly, then front of
door window assembly. 7. Door window assembly from outside of door. 8. Door window assembly
sash rivet. 9. Door window assembly sash.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Door window assembly sash. 2. Door window assembly sash rivet. 3. Door window assembly
from outside of door. 4. Door window assembly by inserting front of door window assembly, then
rear of door window assembly. 5. Door window assembly nuts.
TIGHTEN
^ Nut to 10 Nm (89 lb. in.).
6. Rear door energy absorber and bolts. 7. Door water deflector. 8. Door trim panel.
With Power Regulator
WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11296
1. Remove the door trim panel. 2. Remove the water deflector in order to access the window
regulator. 3. Remove the window assembly. 4. Remove the power window regulator bolts (3). 5.
Remove the power window regulator rivets (2). 6. Remove the power window regulator (5).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11297
1. Install the power window regulator (5). 2. Install the power window regulator rivets (2).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the power window regulator bolts (3).
Tighten Tighten the bolts (3) to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
4. Install the power window regulator nuts (4).
Tighten Tighten the nuts (4) to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
5. Install the window assembly. 6. Install the water deflector. 7. Install the door trim panel.
With Manual Regulator
WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the door trim panel. 2. Remove the water deflector in order to access the window
regulator. 3. Remove the window assembly. 4. Remove the manual window regulator bolts (3). 5.
Remove the manual window regulator rivets (2). 6. Remove the manual window regulator (5).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11298
1. Install the manual window regulator (5). 2. Install the manual window regulator rivets (2).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the manual window regulator bolts (3).
Tighten Tighten the bolts (3) to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
4. Install the manual window regulator nuts (4).
Tighten Tighten the nuts (4) to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
5. Install the window assembly. 6. Install the water deflector. 7. Install the door trim panel.
With Power Regulator
WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11299
1. Remove the door trim panel. 2. Remove the water deflector in order to access the window
regulator. 3. Remove the window assembly. 4. Remove the power window regulator rivets (3). 5.
Remove the power window regulator (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11300
1. Install the power window regulator (1). 2. Install the power window regulator rivets (3).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the power window regulator nuts (2).
Tighten Tighten the nuts (2) to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
4. Install the window assembly. 5. Install the water deflector. 6. Install the door trim panel.
With Manual Regulator
WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11301
1. Remove the door trim panel. 2. Remove the water deflector in order to access the window
regulator. 3. Remove the window assembly. 4. Remove the manual window regulator rivets (3). 5.
Remove the manual window regulator (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11302
1. Install the manual window regulator (1). 2. Install the manual window regulator rivets (3).
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the manual window regulator nuts (2).
Tighten Tighten the nuts (2) to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
4. Install the window assembly. 5. Install the water deflector. 6. Install the door trim panel.
Convertible
WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11303
1. Remove the trim panel. 2. Remove the door trim panel. 3. Peel the water deflector away from the
door inner panel as necessary. Refer to Water Deflector Replacement - Door.
CAUTION: When it is necessary to operate the drivers side window during repairs, the power
window may lock into the express down mode causing the window to lower fully without stopping
even though the switch has been released. Failure to exercise caution around the regulator
assembly when operating the switch may result in personal injury and/or regulator damage.
4. Loosen the nuts (3) in order to allow removal of the door glass from the regulator. Secure the
door glass.
5. Remove the downstop bumper from the door frame. 6. Disconnect the window regulator wire
connector (if equipped).
CAUTION: Eye protection must be worn when drilling rivets to reduce the chance of personal
injury.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11304
7. Punch out the center pins in order to remove the rivets (3). Drill out the rivets. 8. Remove the
screws (2). 9. Remove the window regulator assembly (1) through the door inner panel access
hole.
10. Glean any rivet debris from the bottom of the door.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the window regulator assembly (1) through the door inner panel access hole. 2. Add
LOCTITE 242 or equivalent to the screw threads. 3. Install the screws (2). 4. Install the rivets (3)
that attach the window regulator assembly (1) to the door inner panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Door Inside Handle and Power Door Lock Switch > Page 11305
5. Connect the power window regulator wire connector (if equipped). 6. Install the downstop
bumper to the door frame.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
7. Install the nuts (3) that attach the door window glass.
Tighten Tighten the nuts (3) to 6 Nm (53 lb in).
8. Inspect the operation of the window regulator assembly. 9. Inspect for proper alignment of the
door window glass.
10. Install the water deflector. 11. Install the trim panel. 12. Install the door trim panel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Seal > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Header Weatherstrip - Revised Replacement Procedure
Window Seal: Technical Service Bulletins Header Weatherstrip - Revised Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-03
Date: August, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 10-13 - Revised Remove and Install Procedure for Header Weatherstrip and
Retainers
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier (Convertible Only) 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire (Convertible Only)
This bulletin is being issued to revise the remove and install procedure for header weatherstrip and
retainers, convertible only, in Section 10-13 of the Service Manual.
Procedure
Header Weatherstrip and Retainers
Remove or Disconnect
Important:
Removing the weatherstrip retainers is not necessary if only the weatherstrip is to be serviced.
1. Unlatch and lower folding top.
2. Windshield garnish molding. Refer to Windshield Garnish Molding in this section.
3. Push-pin retainers securing the header weatherstrip at top of the LH and RH A-pillars.
4. Clips securing the header weatherstrip at bottom of the LH and RH A-pillars.
5. Header weatherstrip by pulling up while separating the adhesive bond with a flat bladed tool.
6. Screws securing A-pillar weatherstrip retainer.
7. Screws securing header weatherstrip retainer.
8. Header weatherstrip retainer.
9. Header garnish molding retainer.
Clean
^ Adhesive from parts that will be reused
^ Foam tape from parts that will be reused
^ Foam tape from header surface
^ Butyl tape from header surface
Inspect
^ Header weatherstrip for holes, rips or breaks in the surface skin. If holes, rips or breaks are
found, the weatherstrip must be replaced.
Install or Connect
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Seal > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Header Weatherstrip - Revised Replacement Procedure > Page 11310
1. 50.8 mm (2 in.) long x 12.7 mm (1/2 in.) wide x 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick butyl tape to header
surface centered over both ditch moldings. See Figures 1 and 2.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Seal > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Header Weatherstrip - Revised Replacement Procedure > Page 11311
2. 1,524 mm (60 in.) long x 25.4 mm (1 in.) wide x 3.2 mm (1/8 in.) thick PVC closed-cell foam tape
centered side-to-side to header surface. See Figure 3.
3. 1,524 mm (60 in.) long x 12.7 mm (1/2 in.) wide x 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick butyl tape running from
top end of one A-pillar weatherstrip retainer, up and across the header, overlapping the ditch
moldings butyl and to the top edge of the other A-pillar. Do not remove the protective backing from
the butyl tape at this time. See Figure 4.
4. Header weatherstrip retainer to header.
5. Screws securing header weatherstrip retainer.
6. Windshield garnish molding. Refer to Windshield Garnish Molding in this section.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Seal > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Header Weatherstrip - Revised Replacement Procedure > Page 11312
7. Continuous 4.8 mm (3/16 in.) diameter bead of pumpable butyl inside header weatherstrip
retainer, out and down to both A-pillar weatherstrip retainers. See Figure 5.
8. Lay front header weatherstrip in position to the header retainer.
9. Push-pin retainers to secure LH and RH ends of weatherstrip to header corners.
10. Using a plastic trim stick or wheel-type installation tool, install the front of weatherstrip into the
retainer.
11. Bottom clips of weatherstrip at the A-pillar.
12. Remove protective backing from the butyl tape.
13. Smooth out weatherstrip in the header retainer to work out any wrinkles along header and at
the A-pillars. Ensure the A-pillar corners of weatherstrip do not excessively roll downward.
Otherwise, the door glass, when closed, will pull seal downward more.
14. Pumpable butyl at LH and RH bottom ends of the A-pillar part of the weatherstrip. See Figure 6.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Seal > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Header Weatherstrip - Revised Replacement Procedure > Page 11313
15. A-pillar part of the weatherstrip to weatherstrip retainer, using a plastic trim stick.
16. Weatherstrip all along the butyl strip.
17. Close convertible top and fully raise the door windows. Ensure the door window to A-pillar
corner seal is a proper fit.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 09-08-48-006 > Sep > 09 > Body - Stain/Film On Windshield Glass Perimeter
Windshield: Customer Interest Body - Stain/Film On Windshield Glass Perimeter
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-08-48-006
Date: September 18, 2009
Subject: Clear Stain or Film on Inside Perimeter of Windshield Glass (Clean/Polish Glass)
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn and Saab) 2010 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clear stain or film on the inside of the windshield glass. This
condition appears along the outer edges of the glass along the top, bottom or A-pillar areas.
Normal glass cleaning procedures will not remove the stain.
Cause
The assembly plant uses a clear sealer/primer on the outer edge of the windshield glass to improve
adhesion to the urethane adhesive that bonds the windshield glass to the vehicle body. Excess
sealer/primer may drip or flow onto the windshield and cause a stain. Once the sealer/primer dries,
it may appear to have etched the glass.
Correction
Note
A "white" type of toothpaste is recommended for this repair. Gel-type toothpaste may provide less
satisfactory results.
Use a small amount of toothpaste on a soft, cotton cloth to polish the stained area. It may be
necessary to wrap the cloth around a paint stir stick or a similar tool to reach the lower corners of
the windshield glass.
After polishing the glass, clean the inside of the windshield glass with a clean, damp, cotton cloth
and verify all of the stain is removed. Do not use any cleaners or solvents - use only clean warm
water.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 09-08-48-006 > Sep > 09 > Body - Stain/Film On Windshield Glass Perimeter > Page 11322
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 09-08-48-002A > Mar > 09 > Body - Marks/Stains on Windshield When Wet
Windshield: Customer Interest Body - Marks/Stains on Windshield When Wet
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-08-48-002A
Date: March 19, 2009
Subject: Marks/Stains on Windshield When Wet (Clean Windshield)
Models: 2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn and Saab) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the models and model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 09-08-48-002 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Condition
Some owners may comment that marks/stains appear on the windshield when the windshield is
wet.
Cause
This condition may be caused by contact between the windshield and the vacuum hoses or other
tools used in the assembly process. This contact may leave a residue that creates a water repellent
surface on the glass which, in wet conditions, appear as marks/stains on the surface.
Correction
Important
DO NOT REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD FOR THIS CONDITION.
To clean the windshield, use Eastwood Glass Polishing Compound*. Follow the manufacturer's
directions for product use. Use only hand tools. DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS.
Parts Information
Eastwood Glass Polishing Compound
1-800-343-9353 (for overseas inquiries: +1-610-705-2200)
http://www.eastwoodco.com/
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 06-08-43-003C > Feb > 11 > Glass/Body - Windshield Wiper Performance
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Glass/Body - Windshield Wiper Performance
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-43-003C
Date: February 21, 2011
Subject: Windshield Wiper Performance, Cleaning Instructions and Maintenance
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2010 and Prior Isuzu Medium Duty Trucks 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 and 2012 model year. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-43-003B (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Wiper Concerns
Most concerns about windshield wiper performance are the result of dirty wiper blades, damaged
wiper blades, or worn out blades that are continuing to be used beyond their useful life. Depending
on environmental conditions, wiper blades can have dramatic differences in lifespan. Here are
some tips and guidelines to maximize wiper performance to avoid damage to the blades, and to
avoid unnecessary replacements.
Many wiper blades are being replaced under warranty with reviews showing there is nothing wrong
with the returned blades other than a build-up of dirt. Additionally, advise the customer to review
the information in their Owner Manual.
Inspection and Cleaning
Scheduled Maintenance
- Inspect your wipers rubber blades every 4-6 months or 12,000 km (7,500 mi) for wear, cracking or
contamination.
- Clean the windshield and the rubber wiper blades (using the procedure below) if the blades are
not clearing the glass satisfactorily. If this does not correct the problem, then replace the rubber
elements.
Cleaning Procedure
Important Avoid getting windshield washer fluid on your hands. Wear rubber gloves or avoid direct
contact with washer fluid.
Important Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or petroleum based products to clean wiper blades.
- Clean the rubber blades using a lint free cloth or paper towel soaked with windshield washer fluid
or a mild detergent. You should see significant amounts of dirt being removed on the cloth.
- Be sure to wash the windshield thoroughly when you clean the blades. Bugs, road grime, sap and
a buildup of car wash/wax treatments may additionally cause wiper streaking.
Tip For a larger scale buildup on the windshield, use a non-abrasive cleaner such as Bon-Ami*
(www.faultless.com) cleanser with a wet sponge, being sure to use plenty of water to avoid
scratching the glass. Flush the surface and body panels completely.
Tip For day-to-day exterior glass cleaning and to maintain a streak free appearance, suggest
Vehicle Care Glass Cleaner, P/N 88862560 (in Canada, 992727). This product is an easy to use
foaming cleaner that quickly removes dirt and grime from glass surfaces.
Tip Interior glass should be cleaned with plain, clean water to eliminate any film or haze on the
window and help prevent fogging, a major customer dissatisfier. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-00-89-006D for more information. The New Vehicle Pre-Delivery Inspection form also
recommends using plain water to clean interior glass.
*"We believe this material to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products or equipment from these firms or any such items which may be available from other
sources.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 06-08-43-003C > Feb > 11 > Glass/Body - Windshield Wiper Performance
> Page 11332
Avoiding Wiper Damage
The following are major contributors to wiper damage. Some of these you can control and others
are environmental concerns.
- Extremely dusty areas (such as driving on dirt roads) may cause the wipers rubber edge to wear
quickly and unevenly.
- Sand and salt used on roads for increasing winter traction and ice control will cause the wiper
blades to wear quicker. Areas with significant snowfall require more frequent blade replacements.
- Heat and time may cause the rubber blades to take a "permanent set" resulting in the rubber not
flexing and turning over uniformly. This condition may result in streaking and/or unwiped areas.
- Rubber blades are easily cut or torn when using ice scrapers. Likewise pulling blades up off a
frozen windshield can tear the rubber. Exercise caution when clearing ice and snow.
- Using your wipers to "wear through" frost and ice, instead of allowing the defrosters to melt the
ice, can dull, nick or tear the rubber blades.
- Banging wipers on the glass to remove ice and snow may cause the blade to bend, dislodging the
rubber and causing potential scratching of the windshield.
- Ice can form in the pin joints of the wipers, which can cause streaking and unwiped areas. To
remove ice from pin joints, compress the blade and rubber edge with your hand to loosen the
frozen joints. Consider using Winter Blades that have a rubber cover to avoid this condition.
Note
GM does not recommend the use of any spray on/wipe on windshield treatments or washer fluid
additives. The variation in friction that results on the glass from the use of these products causes
wipers to chatter and have premature wear.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 00-08-48-005D > Sep > 10 > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-08-48-005D
Date: September 10, 2010
Subject: Distortion in Outer Surface of Vehicle Glass
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X 2010 and Prior Saturn
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-48-005C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Distortion in the outer surface of the windshield glass, door glass or backlite glass may appear after
the vehicle has:
- Accumulated some mileage.
- Been frequently washed in automatic car washes, particularly "touchless" car washes.
This distortion may look like a subtle orange peel pattern, or may look like a drip or sag etched into
the surface of the glass.
Some car wash solutions contain a buffered solution of hydrofluoric acid which is used to clean the
glass. This should not cause a problem if used in the correct concentration. However, if not used
correctly, hydrofluoric acid will attack the glass, and over time, will cause visual distortion in the
outer surface of the glass which cannot be removed by scraping or polishing.
If this condition is suspected, look at the area of the windshield under the wipers or below the belt
seal on the side glass. The area of the glass below the wipers or belt seal will not be affected and
what looks like a drip or sag may be apparent at the edge of the wiper or belt seal. You may also
see a line on the glass where the wiper blade or the belt seal contacts the glass.
Important The repair will require replacing the affected glass and is not a result of a defect in
material or workmanship. Therefore, is not covered by New Vehicle Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 09-08-48-006 > Sep > 09 > Body - Stain/Film On Windshield Glass
Perimeter
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Stain/Film On Windshield Glass Perimeter
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-08-48-006
Date: September 18, 2009
Subject: Clear Stain or Film on Inside Perimeter of Windshield Glass (Clean/Polish Glass)
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn and Saab) 2010 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clear stain or film on the inside of the windshield glass. This
condition appears along the outer edges of the glass along the top, bottom or A-pillar areas.
Normal glass cleaning procedures will not remove the stain.
Cause
The assembly plant uses a clear sealer/primer on the outer edge of the windshield glass to improve
adhesion to the urethane adhesive that bonds the windshield glass to the vehicle body. Excess
sealer/primer may drip or flow onto the windshield and cause a stain. Once the sealer/primer dries,
it may appear to have etched the glass.
Correction
Note
A "white" type of toothpaste is recommended for this repair. Gel-type toothpaste may provide less
satisfactory results.
Use a small amount of toothpaste on a soft, cotton cloth to polish the stained area. It may be
necessary to wrap the cloth around a paint stir stick or a similar tool to reach the lower corners of
the windshield glass.
After polishing the glass, clean the inside of the windshield glass with a clean, damp, cotton cloth
and verify all of the stain is removed. Do not use any cleaners or solvents - use only clean warm
water.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 09-08-48-006 > Sep > 09 > Body - Stain/Film On Windshield Glass
Perimeter > Page 11341
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 09-08-48-002A > Mar > 09 > Body - Marks/Stains on Windshield When Wet
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Marks/Stains on Windshield When Wet
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-08-48-002A
Date: March 19, 2009
Subject: Marks/Stains on Windshield When Wet (Clean Windshield)
Models: 2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn and Saab) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the models and model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 09-08-48-002 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Condition
Some owners may comment that marks/stains appear on the windshield when the windshield is
wet.
Cause
This condition may be caused by contact between the windshield and the vacuum hoses or other
tools used in the assembly process. This contact may leave a residue that creates a water repellent
surface on the glass which, in wet conditions, appear as marks/stains on the surface.
Correction
Important
DO NOT REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD FOR THIS CONDITION.
To clean the windshield, use Eastwood Glass Polishing Compound*. Follow the manufacturer's
directions for product use. Use only hand tools. DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS.
Parts Information
Eastwood Glass Polishing Compound
1-800-343-9353 (for overseas inquiries: +1-610-705-2200)
http://www.eastwoodco.com/
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 83-15-16 > Oct > 98 > New Windshield/Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking
Kit
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins New Windshield/Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-16
Date: October, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Windshield and Stationary Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Models: 1990-99 All Passenger Cars and Trucks
As a result of a change from standard viscosity urethane to high-viscosity urethane, a new
Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit, P/N 12346392, is now available from GMSPO. This kit contains
the "High Viscosity" Urethane Adhesive for thicker and more consistent bead size applications.
When applied properly, this new high viscosity urethane in many instances will eliminate the need
for depth setting blocks or the damming material to control squeeze out. The following is the
contents of the new kit:
Like the standard viscosity urethane contained in kit (P/N 12346284) that it replaces, it is a
one-part, moisture cure product with curing times that vary as a result of changes in either
temperature or humidity.
THE REQUIRED TIME FOR THIS NEW ONE-PART MATERIAL to ensure a safe installation of
stationary glass before returning the vehicle to the customer, IS A MINIMUM OF SIX (6) HOURS
AT 70°F (21°C) AND 30% RELATIVE HUMIDITY.
Alternate equivalent materials for this kit may be available from a local glass repair shop under the
following product numbers:
Other manufacturers of Urethane Adhesive that have documented their ability to meet or exceed
General Motors specification # 3651M (Performance Requirements for Stationary Glass Bonding
Adhesive System Service) are also considered to be equivalent to GM Kit (P/N 12346392).
In previously published Corporate Bulletin Number 73-10-54, increasing customer demands for
faster service have resulted in quicker two-part urethane adhesives to be made available. Essex
Beta Seal U216* (two-part urethane adhesive) also meets the General Motors 3651M Specification
and can be
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 83-15-16 > Oct > 98 > New Windshield/Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking
Kit > Page 11350
used when the customer demands quicker repair of the vehicle than the above described one-part
product can provide.
This two-part, chemical cure product requires ONE (1) TO ONE-AND-ONE-HALF (1-1/2) HOURS
FOR CURING BEFORE RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. This two-part product
also requires primers on the glass and pinchweld surfaces. The primers and applicator daubers are
not included with this two-part product and therefore, must be purchased separately. In addition,
this two-part product requires a special applicator (gun) for proper mixing and dispensing of the
adhesive.
Important:
The U216 product is NOT available from GMSPO and must be obtained locally.
* We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such products which may be available from
other sources.
When using either of the above described products, make sure to follow the manufacturer's
directions for application and drying times. For information regarding the removal and installation of
stationary glass, consult the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts information
P/N Description
12346392 Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO, 10/12/98.
Important:
The previously recommended adhesive kit (P/N 12346284) will no longer be available from
GMSPO once inventory is exhausted.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 72-05-04 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for Claiming Windshield
Replace
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Claiming Windshield Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-04
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Claiming C0034 - Windshield Replacement
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide retail and wholesale service personnel with guidelines for
using the above subject labor operations.
In an effort to understand the windshield replacements, the following two phase approval process is
being implemented. We feel this approach will allow GM to be responsive to repair decisions on
vehicles over 10,000 miles (16,000KMS), while providing you, our dealers, the empowerment to
address customer needs on those cases requiring repairs early in the vehicle's life, under 10,000
miles (16,000KMS).
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Windshield replacement on vehicles under 10,000 miles (16,0OOKMS) can only be made after
Service Management inspection, review and approval. This approval must be noted on the repair
order clearly identifying the defect and reason for replacement. This comment must be submitted in
the comment field of the claim for engineering review.
^ Windshield replacement on vehicles over 10,000 miles (16,000KMS) can only be made after
Service Management inspection, review and approval from the divisional service representative.
Vehicles may be required to be held for wholesale inspection. This approval must be noted on the
repair order clearly identifying the defect and reason for replacement. This comment must be
submitted in the comment field of the claim for engineering review. The claim will require wholesale
authorization for payment.
Additional Requirements
^ Windshields replaced must be held for the normal parts retention period and the defect should be
clearly identified on the glass by means of tape and/or a grease pencil.
^ Sublet windshield replacements, like other sublet repairs are to be claimed for actual dealership
cost less any discounts and or allowances offered. Sublet repairs cannot exceed the normal
allowance provided to the dealership had the repair been completed in-house. See your GM Policy
and Procedure Manual for the complete guidelines.
Windshields damaged by normal wear, road hazards, vandalism, or other physical damage are not
eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Other Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 06-08-43-003C > Feb > 11 > Glass/Body - Windshield Wiper Performance
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Glass/Body - Windshield Wiper Performance
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-43-003C
Date: February 21, 2011
Subject: Windshield Wiper Performance, Cleaning Instructions and Maintenance
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2010 and Prior Isuzu Medium Duty Trucks 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 and 2012 model year. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-43-003B (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Wiper Concerns
Most concerns about windshield wiper performance are the result of dirty wiper blades, damaged
wiper blades, or worn out blades that are continuing to be used beyond their useful life. Depending
on environmental conditions, wiper blades can have dramatic differences in lifespan. Here are
some tips and guidelines to maximize wiper performance to avoid damage to the blades, and to
avoid unnecessary replacements.
Many wiper blades are being replaced under warranty with reviews showing there is nothing wrong
with the returned blades other than a build-up of dirt. Additionally, advise the customer to review
the information in their Owner Manual.
Inspection and Cleaning
Scheduled Maintenance
- Inspect your wipers rubber blades every 4-6 months or 12,000 km (7,500 mi) for wear, cracking or
contamination.
- Clean the windshield and the rubber wiper blades (using the procedure below) if the blades are
not clearing the glass satisfactorily. If this does not correct the problem, then replace the rubber
elements.
Cleaning Procedure
Important Avoid getting windshield washer fluid on your hands. Wear rubber gloves or avoid direct
contact with washer fluid.
Important Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or petroleum based products to clean wiper blades.
- Clean the rubber blades using a lint free cloth or paper towel soaked with windshield washer fluid
or a mild detergent. You should see significant amounts of dirt being removed on the cloth.
- Be sure to wash the windshield thoroughly when you clean the blades. Bugs, road grime, sap and
a buildup of car wash/wax treatments may additionally cause wiper streaking.
Tip For a larger scale buildup on the windshield, use a non-abrasive cleaner such as Bon-Ami*
(www.faultless.com) cleanser with a wet sponge, being sure to use plenty of water to avoid
scratching the glass. Flush the surface and body panels completely.
Tip For day-to-day exterior glass cleaning and to maintain a streak free appearance, suggest
Vehicle Care Glass Cleaner, P/N 88862560 (in Canada, 992727). This product is an easy to use
foaming cleaner that quickly removes dirt and grime from glass surfaces.
Tip Interior glass should be cleaned with plain, clean water to eliminate any film or haze on the
window and help prevent fogging, a major customer dissatisfier. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-00-89-006D for more information. The New Vehicle Pre-Delivery Inspection form also
recommends using plain water to clean interior glass.
*"We believe this material to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products or equipment from these firms or any such items which may be available from other
sources.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Other Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 06-08-43-003C > Feb > 11 > Glass/Body - Windshield Wiper Performance >
Page 11360
Avoiding Wiper Damage
The following are major contributors to wiper damage. Some of these you can control and others
are environmental concerns.
- Extremely dusty areas (such as driving on dirt roads) may cause the wipers rubber edge to wear
quickly and unevenly.
- Sand and salt used on roads for increasing winter traction and ice control will cause the wiper
blades to wear quicker. Areas with significant snowfall require more frequent blade replacements.
- Heat and time may cause the rubber blades to take a "permanent set" resulting in the rubber not
flexing and turning over uniformly. This condition may result in streaking and/or unwiped areas.
- Rubber blades are easily cut or torn when using ice scrapers. Likewise pulling blades up off a
frozen windshield can tear the rubber. Exercise caution when clearing ice and snow.
- Using your wipers to "wear through" frost and ice, instead of allowing the defrosters to melt the
ice, can dull, nick or tear the rubber blades.
- Banging wipers on the glass to remove ice and snow may cause the blade to bend, dislodging the
rubber and causing potential scratching of the windshield.
- Ice can form in the pin joints of the wipers, which can cause streaking and unwiped areas. To
remove ice from pin joints, compress the blade and rubber edge with your hand to loosen the
frozen joints. Consider using Winter Blades that have a rubber cover to avoid this condition.
Note
GM does not recommend the use of any spray on/wipe on windshield treatments or washer fluid
additives. The variation in friction that results on the glass from the use of these products causes
wipers to chatter and have premature wear.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Other Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 00-08-48-005D > Sep > 10 > Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Vehicle Glass Distortion Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-08-48-005D
Date: September 10, 2010
Subject: Distortion in Outer Surface of Vehicle Glass
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X 2010 and Prior Saturn
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-48-005C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Distortion in the outer surface of the windshield glass, door glass or backlite glass may appear after
the vehicle has:
- Accumulated some mileage.
- Been frequently washed in automatic car washes, particularly "touchless" car washes.
This distortion may look like a subtle orange peel pattern, or may look like a drip or sag etched into
the surface of the glass.
Some car wash solutions contain a buffered solution of hydrofluoric acid which is used to clean the
glass. This should not cause a problem if used in the correct concentration. However, if not used
correctly, hydrofluoric acid will attack the glass, and over time, will cause visual distortion in the
outer surface of the glass which cannot be removed by scraping or polishing.
If this condition is suspected, look at the area of the windshield under the wipers or below the belt
seal on the side glass. The area of the glass below the wipers or belt seal will not be affected and
what looks like a drip or sag may be apparent at the edge of the wiper or belt seal. You may also
see a line on the glass where the wiper blade or the belt seal contacts the glass.
Important The repair will require replacing the affected glass and is not a result of a defect in
material or workmanship. Therefore, is not covered by New Vehicle Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Other Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 83-15-16 > Oct > 98 > New Windshield/Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins New Windshield/Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-16
Date: October, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Windshield and Stationary Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Models: 1990-99 All Passenger Cars and Trucks
As a result of a change from standard viscosity urethane to high-viscosity urethane, a new
Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit, P/N 12346392, is now available from GMSPO. This kit contains
the "High Viscosity" Urethane Adhesive for thicker and more consistent bead size applications.
When applied properly, this new high viscosity urethane in many instances will eliminate the need
for depth setting blocks or the damming material to control squeeze out. The following is the
contents of the new kit:
Like the standard viscosity urethane contained in kit (P/N 12346284) that it replaces, it is a
one-part, moisture cure product with curing times that vary as a result of changes in either
temperature or humidity.
THE REQUIRED TIME FOR THIS NEW ONE-PART MATERIAL to ensure a safe installation of
stationary glass before returning the vehicle to the customer, IS A MINIMUM OF SIX (6) HOURS
AT 70°F (21°C) AND 30% RELATIVE HUMIDITY.
Alternate equivalent materials for this kit may be available from a local glass repair shop under the
following product numbers:
Other manufacturers of Urethane Adhesive that have documented their ability to meet or exceed
General Motors specification # 3651M (Performance Requirements for Stationary Glass Bonding
Adhesive System Service) are also considered to be equivalent to GM Kit (P/N 12346392).
In previously published Corporate Bulletin Number 73-10-54, increasing customer demands for
faster service have resulted in quicker two-part urethane adhesives to be made available. Essex
Beta Seal U216* (two-part urethane adhesive) also meets the General Motors 3651M Specification
and can be
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Other Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 83-15-16 > Oct > 98 > New Windshield/Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
> Page 11369
used when the customer demands quicker repair of the vehicle than the above described one-part
product can provide.
This two-part, chemical cure product requires ONE (1) TO ONE-AND-ONE-HALF (1-1/2) HOURS
FOR CURING BEFORE RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. This two-part product
also requires primers on the glass and pinchweld surfaces. The primers and applicator daubers are
not included with this two-part product and therefore, must be purchased separately. In addition,
this two-part product requires a special applicator (gun) for proper mixing and dispensing of the
adhesive.
Important:
The U216 product is NOT available from GMSPO and must be obtained locally.
* We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such products which may be available from
other sources.
When using either of the above described products, make sure to follow the manufacturer's
directions for application and drying times. For information regarding the removal and installation of
stationary glass, consult the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts information
P/N Description
12346392 Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO, 10/12/98.
Important:
The previously recommended adhesive kit (P/N 12346284) will no longer be available from
GMSPO once inventory is exhausted.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Other Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 72-05-04 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for Claiming Windshield Replace
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Claiming Windshield Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-04
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Claiming C0034 - Windshield Replacement
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide retail and wholesale service personnel with guidelines for
using the above subject labor operations.
In an effort to understand the windshield replacements, the following two phase approval process is
being implemented. We feel this approach will allow GM to be responsive to repair decisions on
vehicles over 10,000 miles (16,000KMS), while providing you, our dealers, the empowerment to
address customer needs on those cases requiring repairs early in the vehicle's life, under 10,000
miles (16,000KMS).
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Windshield replacement on vehicles under 10,000 miles (16,0OOKMS) can only be made after
Service Management inspection, review and approval. This approval must be noted on the repair
order clearly identifying the defect and reason for replacement. This comment must be submitted in
the comment field of the claim for engineering review.
^ Windshield replacement on vehicles over 10,000 miles (16,000KMS) can only be made after
Service Management inspection, review and approval from the divisional service representative.
Vehicles may be required to be held for wholesale inspection. This approval must be noted on the
repair order clearly identifying the defect and reason for replacement. This comment must be
submitted in the comment field of the claim for engineering review. The claim will require wholesale
authorization for payment.
Additional Requirements
^ Windshields replaced must be held for the normal parts retention period and the defect should be
clearly identified on the glass by means of tape and/or a grease pencil.
^ Sublet windshield replacements, like other sublet repairs are to be claimed for actual dealership
cost less any discounts and or allowances offered. Sublet repairs cannot exceed the normal
allowance provided to the dealership had the repair been completed in-house. See your GM Policy
and Procedure Manual for the complete guidelines.
Windshields damaged by normal wear, road hazards, vandalism, or other physical damage are not
eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Headlamp Washer Reservoir > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Headlamp Washer Reservoir: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the lid completely from the washer solvent container. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Remove
the LF wheel. 4. Remove the left front headlight. 5. Remove the splash shield. 6. Disconnect the
electrical connector from the washer pump. 7. Disconnect the hose from the washer pump.
8. Remove the three screws, the washer solvent container and the air induction assembly from the
vehicle. 9. Remove the two retainers and the air induction assembly from the washer solvent
container.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Headlamp Washer Reservoir > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 11378
1. Install the air induction assembly and the two retainers onto the washer solvent container.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the washer solvent container and the air induction assembly with the three screws.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 10 N.m (88 lb in).
3. Connect the hose to the washer pump. 4. Connect the electrical connector to the washer pump.
5. Install the splash shield. 6. Install the left front headlight. 7. Install the LF wheel. 8. Lower the
vehicle. 9. Install the lid on the container.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Relays and Modules - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Control Module > Component Information > Specifications
Wiper Control Module: Specifications
Wiper Drive System Module to Vehicle Screws
..........................................................................................................................................10 N.m (88
lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Wiper Switch: Locations
Windshield Wiper, Passlock (TM), Turn/Hazard, Cruise Control And Headlamp Connectors
At the right side of the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 11387
Wiper Switch Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 11388
Wiper Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Inflator module and steering wheel. 2. Tilt lever from column (if used).
NOTICE: If necessary, use locking pliers with a piece of rubber (such as a spark plug boot)
between the jaws to aid in preventing damage to the tilt lever during removal.
3. Remove upper and lower steering column covers. 4. Dampener assembly. 5. Headlight switch
assembly. 6. Windshield wiper switch assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Windshield wiper switch assembly. 2. Upper and lower steering column covers. 3. Tilt lever to
column (if used). 4. Inflator module and steering wheel.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield Washer Pump > Component Information >
Locations
Windshield Washer Pump: Locations
Location View
At the left front of the engine compartment, forward of the wheel splash shield
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield Washer Pump > Component Information >
Locations > Page 11392
Washer Pump
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield Washer Pump > Component Information >
Locations > Page 11393
Windshield Washer Pump: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the electrical connector from the washer pump. 2. Disconnect the hose from the
washer pump. 3. Remove the washer pump from the washer solvent container.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the washer pump in the washer solvent container.
1.1. Push the washer pump down into the washer solvent container completely.
1.2. Push the top of the washer pump into the side of the washer solvent container.
2. Connect the hose to the washer pump. 3. Connect the electrical connector to the washer pump.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Arm > Component Information > Specifications
Wiper Arm: Specifications
Wiper Arm to Shaft Nut ........................................................................................................................
........................................................30 N.m (22 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Arm > Component Information > Specifications > Page
11397
Wiper Arm: Testing and Inspection
Wiper Arm Tip Pressure Check
1. Run the wiper arms to the mid-wipe position. 2. Remove the wiper blades from the wiper arms.
3. Attach a scale to the end of the wiper arm and measure the force required to lift the wiper arm
perpendicular to the windshield to normal working
height (height with the blade attached).
4. Replace the wiper arm if the measurement is not within the specification.
Tip Pressure Driver side - 8.1-9.5 Newtons (26-31 oz) Passenger side - 5.8-7.0 Newtons (19-25 oz)
5. Install the wiper blades on the wiper arms.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Arm > Component Information > Specifications > Page
11398
Wiper Arm: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Place the wiper arms in the park position. 2. Open the hood. 3. Install a protective covering over
the fenders. 4. Remove the washer hose from the washer nozzle. 5. Remove the cover from the
nut. 6. Remove the nut from the wiper arm and the wiper transmission drive shaft.
IMPORTANT: Use a battery terminal puller to remove the wiper arms if they cannot be removed by
rocking.
7. Remove the wiper arm from the wiper transmission drive shaft by rocking.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: Hold the measuring device at 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the wiper blade.
1. Install the wiper arm onto the wiper transmission drive shaft while maintaining a distance of 45
mm (1.77 in) between the wiper blade and the
bottom of the windshield.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the nut onto the wiper transmission drive shaft and the wiper arm.
Tighten Tighten the nut to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
3. Place the cover on the nut.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Arm > Component Information > Specifications > Page
11399
IMPORTANT: Lubricate the washer hose with windshield washer solvent in order to ease
installation onto the washer nozzle.
4. Connect the washer hose to the washer nozzle. 5. Remove the protective covering from the
fenders. 6. Close the hood. 7. Operate the wipers and inspect for proper operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Blade > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Glass/Body - Windshield Wiper Performance
Wiper Blade: Technical Service Bulletins Glass/Body - Windshield Wiper Performance
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-43-003C
Date: February 21, 2011
Subject: Windshield Wiper Performance, Cleaning Instructions and Maintenance
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2010 and Prior Isuzu Medium Duty Trucks 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 and 2012 model year. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-43-003B (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Wiper Concerns
Most concerns about windshield wiper performance are the result of dirty wiper blades, damaged
wiper blades, or worn out blades that are continuing to be used beyond their useful life. Depending
on environmental conditions, wiper blades can have dramatic differences in lifespan. Here are
some tips and guidelines to maximize wiper performance to avoid damage to the blades, and to
avoid unnecessary replacements.
Many wiper blades are being replaced under warranty with reviews showing there is nothing wrong
with the returned blades other than a build-up of dirt. Additionally, advise the customer to review
the information in their Owner Manual.
Inspection and Cleaning
Scheduled Maintenance
- Inspect your wipers rubber blades every 4-6 months or 12,000 km (7,500 mi) for wear, cracking or
contamination.
- Clean the windshield and the rubber wiper blades (using the procedure below) if the blades are
not clearing the glass satisfactorily. If this does not correct the problem, then replace the rubber
elements.
Cleaning Procedure
Important Avoid getting windshield washer fluid on your hands. Wear rubber gloves or avoid direct
contact with washer fluid.
Important Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or petroleum based products to clean wiper blades.
- Clean the rubber blades using a lint free cloth or paper towel soaked with windshield washer fluid
or a mild detergent. You should see significant amounts of dirt being removed on the cloth.
- Be sure to wash the windshield thoroughly when you clean the blades. Bugs, road grime, sap and
a buildup of car wash/wax treatments may additionally cause wiper streaking.
Tip For a larger scale buildup on the windshield, use a non-abrasive cleaner such as Bon-Ami*
(www.faultless.com) cleanser with a wet sponge, being sure to use plenty of water to avoid
scratching the glass. Flush the surface and body panels completely.
Tip For day-to-day exterior glass cleaning and to maintain a streak free appearance, suggest
Vehicle Care Glass Cleaner, P/N 88862560 (in Canada, 992727). This product is an easy to use
foaming cleaner that quickly removes dirt and grime from glass surfaces.
Tip Interior glass should be cleaned with plain, clean water to eliminate any film or haze on the
window and help prevent fogging, a major customer dissatisfier. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-00-89-006D for more information. The New Vehicle Pre-Delivery Inspection form also
recommends using plain water to clean interior glass.
*"We believe this material to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products or equipment from these firms or any such items which may be available from other
sources.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Blade > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Glass/Body - Windshield Wiper Performance > Page 11404
Avoiding Wiper Damage
The following are major contributors to wiper damage. Some of these you can control and others
are environmental concerns.
- Extremely dusty areas (such as driving on dirt roads) may cause the wipers rubber edge to wear
quickly and unevenly.
- Sand and salt used on roads for increasing winter traction and ice control will cause the wiper
blades to wear quicker. Areas with significant snowfall require more frequent blade replacements.
- Heat and time may cause the rubber blades to take a "permanent set" resulting in the rubber not
flexing and turning over uniformly. This condition may result in streaking and/or unwiped areas.
- Rubber blades are easily cut or torn when using ice scrapers. Likewise pulling blades up off a
frozen windshield can tear the rubber. Exercise caution when clearing ice and snow.
- Using your wipers to "wear through" frost and ice, instead of allowing the defrosters to melt the
ice, can dull, nick or tear the rubber blades.
- Banging wipers on the glass to remove ice and snow may cause the blade to bend, dislodging the
rubber and causing potential scratching of the windshield.
- Ice can form in the pin joints of the wipers, which can cause streaking and unwiped areas. To
remove ice from pin joints, compress the blade and rubber edge with your hand to loosen the
frozen joints. Consider using Winter Blades that have a rubber cover to avoid this condition.
Note
GM does not recommend the use of any spray on/wipe on windshield treatments or washer fluid
additives. The variation in friction that results on the glass from the use of these products causes
wipers to chatter and have premature wear.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Blade > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 11405
Wiper Blade: Testing and Inspection
Blade Element Check
1. Remove the wiper blades from the wiper arms. 2. Look down the length of the blade element. 3.
Replace the wiper blade if the rubber element which contacts the glass is not on the centerline of
the blade ± 5 degrees. 4. Install the wiper blades on the wiper arms.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Blade > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Wiper Blade Assembly Replacement
Wiper Blade: Service and Repair Wiper Blade Assembly Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Push in the button of the wiper blade clip and remove the wiper blade from the inside radius of
the wiper arm.
2. Bring the wiper arm out through the opening in the wiper blade.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Insert the hook of the wiper arm through the opening in the wiper blade.
2. Position the wiper blade pivot in the inside radius of the wiper arm hook. 3. Pull the wiper blade
pivot into the wiper arm hook until the pivot locks into the hook. 4. Operate the wipers and check for
proper operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Blade > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Wiper Blade Assembly Replacement > Page 11408
Wiper Blade: Service and Repair Wiper Blade Element Cleaning
Lift each blade assembly off of the windshield and clean the element with a cloth saturated with full
strength washer solvent. Then rinse the blade assemblies with water.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Control Module > Component Information >
Specifications
Wiper Control Module: Specifications
Wiper Drive System Module to Vehicle Screws
..........................................................................................................................................10 N.m (88
lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Specifications
Wiper Motor: Specifications
Wiper Motor Mounting Screws ............................................................................................................
........................................................10 N.m (88 lb in) Wiper Motor Cover Screws2 N.m (18 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Specifications >
Page 11415
Wiper Motor: Locations
At the left rear of the engine compartment, in front of the dash
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Specifications >
Page 11416
Wiper Motor Assembly
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Wiper Motor
Wiper Motor: Service and Repair Front Wiper Motor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 39232 Wiper Transmission Separator
1. Remove the wiper arms. 2. Remove the plenum chamber water deflector. 3. Remove the
electrical connector from the wiper motor. 4. Remove the three screws and the wiper drive system
module from the vehicle.
5. Remove the wiper transmission from the wiper motor crank arm using the J39232.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Wiper Motor > Page 11419
6. Remove the two screws and the wiper motor from the tube frame.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 39529 Wiper Transmission Installer
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
1. Install the wiper motor onto the tube frame with the two screws.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 10 N.m (88 lb in).
2. Install the wiper transmission onto the wiper motor crank arm using the J 39529.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Wiper Motor > Page 11420
3. Install the wiper drive system module onto the vehicle with the three screws.
Tighten Tighten the screws to 10 N.m (88 lb in).
4. Connect the electrical connector onto the wiper motor. 5. Install the plenum chamber water
deflector. 6. Install the wiper arms. 7. Operate the wipers and check for proper operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair
> Front Wiper Motor > Page 11421
Wiper Motor: Service and Repair Wiper Motor Cover Replacement
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the wiper arms. 2. Remove the plenum chamber water deflector. 3. Remove the three
screws and the wiper motor cover from the wiper motor. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector from
the wiper motor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Reter to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
1. Install the wiper motor cover onto the wiper motor with the three screws.
Tighten Tighten the three screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
2. Install the plenum chamber water deflector. 3. Install the wiper arms. 4. Operate the wipers and
inspect for proper operation.
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor Linkage > Component Information >
Specifications
Wiper Motor Linkage: Specifications
Wiper Transmission to Tube Frame Screws
...................................................................................................................................................9 N.m
(79 lb in)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Pivot > Component Information > Specifications
Wiper Pivot: Specifications
Wiper Arm to Shaft Nut ........................................................................................................................
........................................................30 N.m (22 lb ft)
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Switch > Component Information > Locations
Wiper Switch: Locations
Windshield Wiper, Passlock (TM), Turn/Hazard, Cruise Control And Headlamp Connectors
At the right side of the steering column
Chevrolet Cavalier Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L VIN 4 (1998))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page
11431
Wiper Switch Assembly